All About the Double-Breasted Suit

[Music] hello everybody and welcome to this new episode of our Satori talks today I'm gonna try to answer all the questions you have about double breasted C's and believe me we receive a lot of question am I to start to wear a double breasted suit am I too thin and I too tall am I too short am I too young there's a lot of question about this intriguing piece of comments and I'm gonna try to cover completely the subject where the double breasted suit is coming from that's the first question to ask it's very easy it's coming from the sea I mean not literally from the sea from the ships on the sea from the Navy from the naval world it's what we still call by the way today a peacoat that is to a fisherman or naval army coat which is two layers of fabric and one layer is going above the other layer of fabric and this is what we call eight on four buttoning that is to say eight buttons with four functioning buttons and you will see that a lot of people are sometime confused about the appellation how do we describe a double-breasted suit and I'm gonna teach you this very quickly because it's extremely easy to understand so if you are interested in the double-breasted universe you probably have heard appellations like 601 602 and you may be confused but what is 600 600 means is very easy the first number is the number of buttons you have on your jacket most of the time on a suit you have six buttons and then the second number six on to for example describe the number of button that are active that you can actually button that is to say which have the buttonhole and a button so in the case of a six and two as I show you now you have six buttons and then on side that is gonna overlap you have two buttonholes that is to say six button out of which two are functioning six on - that's the most classical form of double-breasted suit if you want something more I would say stylish less classical was a little bit more of flair which is a very interesting specifically in Italy and a thousand of Italy they're very good at that you should go for the other main category of double-breasted it's called the six on one so as I will show you now the six on one is the same principle you have a layer on fabric which is going above the other layer on fabric it has six buttons but only the last one so only one button and B button so we call it six on one the buttoning is much lower and it gives a longer roll to your jacket so it's considered to be more casual than the six on to which is considered to be more classic and more business and more form and I'm going to show you another example of double-breasted which is still a six on one this six on one has become the signature double-breasted of the chiefly bespoke house in Paris so as you can see is the same structure as the one before there was a dark aura from Napoli this one is from chief Ranieri paris so you see it's six buttons and only one is buttoning but the button which is buttoning is much higher than the formal suit which was an Italian so on my Italian six and one you can see something very low and on the French exam one is the same buttoning system that is a little bit higher now you have the major types of double-breasted 602 the most classic six on one Italian style very low very casual six on one French with the last row of bottom a little bit higher that makes the suit which is a hybrid between a casual and a formal suit and then I particularly like personally now a few things about the double-breasted because once again it's a very intriguing and and an interesting subject I cut the bag of the double-breasted thanks to Massimo Chi finale which is the cousin of Lorenzo cheese finale I remember it very well it was in 2008 I wanted to do my second bespoke suit with chiefin le and immediately Massimo I said oh you go with your style you should go to a double-breasted you wish you should immediately go double-breasted and me I had some kind of preconceived ideas about the double-breasted ah it's from the 80s is for all the people or it's for notaries or bankers but me I'm an artist I'm a writer I'm not sure double receipt but and then Massimo insisted because he knew little bit my taste and it was a six on two on midnight blue that had been using a lot specifically for formal occasions and I was very happy that my first step and then when you try the for the first time to wear a double-breasted suit the impression you have it's in a double-breasted suit which is well cutted specifically for you if you go bespoke when you put on your suit you feel invincible is difficult to explain is something totally different than a single person and why do I say well cut it that's the issue with double-breasted many people says many things about double-breasted you know in the sartorial world as so many people now who speaks with the social network with hundreds of blogs and hundreds of influencers so-called everything and nothing is said at the same time about double-breasted I've heard so many incorrect things saying that if you are to start you should avoid double-breasted because it put some more fabric on the front of your silhouette if you are too short you should evolve avoid double-breasted because the lapel will will stretch your silhouette on the horizontal side all this kind of stuff the only thing I will answer to that is I first of all if you like it wear it never never never listen to people forbid you to wear something if you like it try it and if it looks good on you buy it and wear it that's the first thing believe in your own eyes believe in your own tastes trusts your judgment and trust you feel but the second thing which is true is that a double-breasted to be to look good on any kind of figure has to be well cut because well not so well cut single breasted suit may be sufficient honestly if you go double-breasted you have to choose to go double-breasted it has to be well cut because if if it if it's not work at it is a catastrophe immediately and you will not be able to work soon so this is why the double-breasted suit is difficult to find or was difficult extremely difficult to find in ready-to-wear and is still not easy to find a good double-breasted suit is not that easy to find in ready-to-wear it's more easy than it used to be a few years ago thanks to the sartorial movement but it's still not very it's not your everyday suit it's not the suit you gonna buy not an everyday basis but this is also more difficult to make and you can ask any tailors in the world even if they say oh no no it's the same for me no no no it's not true it's more difficult to work with because it's more fabric it's a more complex geometrical figure and you understand that the way the the fact that you add layers of fabric on the front picture of somebody means that you have to be extremely balanced in the proportion to make sure that this suit really fits that body so the first thing to remember if you want to acquire a double breasted is the cut the cut is fundamental it comes before the fabric it comes before everything it come before the style the cut and if you go for ready-to-wear I strongly advise you you take your time in the fitting room or if you do it online where you are putting on your suit for the first time to check if it's really cut for you is the color gap there's no color the other is to say if your color is is really sticking to your short color this is the first thing to look at and one thing also which is very interesting and they will add that I will show you now is the fact that if you have a little tension on the button I don't say your big tension a big tension means the jacket is too small for you but if you have a little tension at the buttoning of your jacket it means that the suit is well cut for you because if it's if there's no tension most of the time the double-breasted can can become visually too large for you so it's a very subtle balance you have to find this buttoning button the the one the working button has to be a little bit tight one thing important to understand also about the style of a double-breasted suit a double-breasted suit is always with peak lapels I mean I've seen a few attempts of people who wanted to innovate trying to put notch lapels on the double-breasted suit honnestly between you and me and God knows if I have an open mind in men's aisle it was terrific so no notch lapel never on the double-breasted suit because it doesn't go well it's not even explicable wild I think there's probably a geometrical explanation for that but it doesn't work peak lapels only that's very important let me give you now a few examples of which kind of double-breasted suit are recommended for which kind of figure if you are thin and if you are short under five foot eight you should consider what we call a four on one there's a very famous photo of Daniel Radcliffe Harry Potter who as far as I know is not a very tall man is around five seven and he is wearing a double-breasted youth four-on-one and i remember we wrote an article on this on Parisian gentlemen specifically to explain why if you are short before one double but it can help you can help you stretch your silhouette by putting very few annoyances disturbances on your jacket I saw only four button so it's very discreet you attract attention to the to the upper part of the torso because it's totally blank and you elongate the silhouette you stretch the silhouette and it's not busy at all on the front here and it's a real phenomenon with a visual favela to elongate your silhouette now on the contrary if you are very stout very big a very sturdy specifically in the front I will not recommend you to buy a double-breasted of the peg if you really want gold double-breasted while having a stout figure you should go to a tailor why because the problem for you is on the front panel is what you show on the front panel of your suit and with the extra layer of fabric if you are really sturdy and start on this area it may become tricky ready-to-wear because some suit can quickly transform into skirts you understand that is to say too much fabric because in order to cover your excess of weight here the ready-to-wear government will have to be quite large but if you are a little bit thinner at the beginning of the legs all of a sudden your should become a skirt so you have to be very careful at that my advice would be if you are start go to a tailor if you want to go double-breasted if you are too told you can wear a double-breasted suit and use the double-breasted buttoning to work on the horizontal frame of your silhouette that's one of the most important rule to understand all this tutorial subject and that's a good occasion to to come back to it the dimension and the proportion of your body will guide the tailor or will get your choice of ready-to-wear and there's always a solution other to stretch your body vertically or to stretch your body horizontally visually and for that you play with the lapel you play with the pattern and we play with different features on the jacket so in the case of somebody who is extremely tall what we're gonna do is that we're gonna we gonna soften this tallness effect with the buttons and so with the six on the one for example we're gonna put the first row of that on that you don't use way in the mid almost in the middle of the jacket so that you work on the horizontal line of this tool fear and you will see that the result can be extremely interesting you can all of a sudden make a short person look way taller and extremely tall person look more balanced simply by playing with the lapels with the buttons and specifically with the double-breasted one last thing about the double-breasted you will read everywhere the first rule about a double-breasted it has to be worn button never unbutton whether you are standing or whether you are sitting well I must admit that I disagree specifically what I'm sitting I like to unbutton is it is it normal that you have to suffer when you are sitting or you have to your jacket you know your your tie is about to jump on the people in front of you know just unbutton it just be at your ease style is also being at you once is I know the purism like that but I don't care I think that a double-breasted unbuttoned when you are sitting is almost mandatory but even when you are standing wearing it open for me it's not a problem and you will see more online Italy specifically when it's really hard it's okay to open your double-breasted it all it's all about you how you can put it off and me I love to wear them open one very last trick is do you know and that's another debate is everybody says even on the six on to you never button the last button never some people say if you look at the Golden Age of Hollywood in the 1940s a Jimmy Stewart back in the years a Gary Cooper or Fred Astaire they were wearing their double-breasted suit even carry ground with the last button button so it's a matter of fashion but do you know where this fashion of never buttoning the last button of a jacket except on a six on one because this is the only one you can button that only six on 200 on a normal single breasted jacket there's a rule say you never never never button the last button why in fact it comes from our good friend the King Edward the seventh in England we are the beginning of the 20th century and this guy that he had a nickname called Bertie and this is actually my favorite tie knot it's called the old Bertie this is the way this guy was tying is not and I will explain this to you in a future episode of soo toriel talks and so Bertie Edward the seventh was too big and too fat and so he was unable to button the last button of all his jackets and all his West Coast and vests so this is why to please the King all the chrome season and the court decided that it was now a rule not to make the King uncomfortable and feel bad everybody studied not to button the last button just to mimic the king but in fact the reality is that the King didn't button the last button because he couldn't button it for some physical reason so you see behind every rule quote-unquote like that there's always a very pragmatic origin and this is the origin of why we talk button the last button of ours so I hope you know now more about double-breasted I hope this will give you some guidance and some guidelines on how to acquire the double-breasted I really invite you to try this kind of suit because it's more than the suit is so statistic statements you're going to feel extremely comfortable in it and at your best and this is what we want you to be at your best Cheers [Music]

Channel: SARTORIAL TALKS

Views: 184,157

Keywords: Double Breasted, suit, bespoke, cifonelli, Dalcuore, Daniel Radcliff, 6 on 1, 6 on 2, 4 on 1, ST, Sartorial talks, hugo jacomet, sonya glyn, PG, parisian gentleman, men's style, elegance, dressing well, how to, double breasted suit, blazer, classic men's style

Id: _Gb-rq-9RAs

Length: 18min 4sec (1084 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 16 2018