STEP by STEP Guide to Paint Your Car By Yourself!

on this episode of pain Society this is  the complete color change guide that you   need to know in order to paint your car  we're gonna take this old Honda Civic and   turn it into a show-stopping paint job we're  going to take you through the whole complete   color change process from primer we're  going to take you into cut-ins and how   to jam properly to getting everything back  onto the vehicle sanding and prepping that   down for its final spray job you're going to  learn a lot so let's go ahead and get started [Music] the start of this project started with Bodhi  Vision making sure that any of the rusted out   areas were completely fixed and we also  did some custom modifications to some   open holes that Bodhi was able to go ahead  and weld shut he then finished everything   up with an epoxy primer once it was epoxy  primered that's where we took over this job   step one primer application in this step we have  completely sanded down the original epoxy primer   finish it's very important to give that finish  at least one week to scuff down we've scuffed   it down with a 320 grit and we will be applying a  2K urethane surfacer primer this surfacer primer   is going to give us the build that we need to  smooth things out here we're using the Eastwood 2K   urethane surfacer primer and it mixes up four to  one I found just a little bit of reducer helps to   help it come out of the gun a little bit smoother  once it's all mixed up we're going to apply two   to three coats or until you get the maximum build  that you need keep in mind allowing at least 10   minutes in between coats is a good practice when  spraying primer this will allow the prior coats   to First initially dry so you can build on top of  those when performing a primer application make   sure you go to edge to edge when applying primer  it's very important to use the right fluid tip so   here we're using a 1.8 but you can also use a 2.0  if it's struggling to come out of the spray gun   the hood here has a black primer from the factory  and we're going to go ahead and just apply a   primer over this Factory primer all panels have  been previously sanded with a P320 grit and that   is a good grit for adhesion you don't want a sand  too coarse because then you'll see sand scratches   once the primer has been applied to the vehicle  it's always a great idea to allow the primer to   sit for at least 24 to 48 hours if you allow  it to sit a little bit longer then this will   help the shrinkage and what shrinkage is is all  of the primer will eventually shrink into the   sand scratch of the Sandpaper that you used  initially by allowing it to properly shrink   we can ensure that later down the road once the  paint job has been completed we won't see any   shrinking or swelling of the paint job this  is such an important step in the process of   the primer so make sure you do not rush it if you  have any areas that were down to Bare Metal once   you've sanded the epoxy you can go ahead and take  some self-etching primer out of a can and always   hit those spots up first before applying the 2K  urethane primer step two prepping the cuttings   also known as the jams When painting a car based  off your ability it might be a best idea to paint   the car all at once so that the color completely  matches if this is the case then it's best to   First initially prep and spray all the parts  that you will not be able to spray once the car   is assembled this includes on the fenders inside  of the jamb and inside the engine bay we're going   to be using a P400 and then we'll finish it up  with a P600 so that the paint has a nice surface   to lay on we're going to be sanding at least three  to four inches past the initial area where we're   initially going to spray our paint we always want  our paint to land on a sanded surface rather than   an unsanded primer surface so make sure you take  the necessary time in order to smooth out the   areas where the overspray will lie when doing a  cut in it's very important that you take the time   also to prep the cut in properly cut in areas  usually are not the easiest to sand so you can   use a combination of maroon scuff pads gray scuff  pads or fold over the paper in order to get into   the areas that are hard to reach I like to always  start with the cut-ins on a spray job because this   is a good practice for my color and getting things  down pat before the actual vehicle is sprayed   you can see here on the hood we're sanding around  two to three inches on the front side of the hood   because when we spray the back side of the hood we  want to make sure that any of the overspray that   catches the edge and folds over to the top side  lands a nice smooth paint if you don't do this   this can cause adhesion issues in the future make  sure you take the time to properly prep all of   your parts step 3 applying the cut in paint to the  jamb and since this vehicle will be painted all   together since it is a quad stage paint job with  a ground coat we want to make sure that we cut   in the parts and then put them back on the vehicle  if this was an easier paint job like a solid color   then most likely you could just paint everything  off the car but for this particular case since   it is a complex color you want all panels lined  up on the vehicle to make sure you have the same   exact match so a cut in basically is removing  all the components of the door and spraying the   inside of the jams and then placing it back on the  vehicle now this is not primed like the rest of   the vehicle but we're going to be using a sealer  we'll go ahead and seal everything in because we   didn't use a primer and then from there we can  start with our ground coat our midcoat and our top   coat you can see we have all the panels lined  out here and we're also going to be spraying the   Inside Edge of the fender here because remember  when the vehicle is put back together the only   part that's going to be accessible really is  the top of the fender not the inside so we'll   be cutting in the edge of the fender and we'll  also be cutting in the inner edge of the fender   where it meets the door and these portions will  be taped off when it comes to painting the actual   vehicle now to get everything clean I'm going  to be using a pre-painting prep it's basically   a solvent cleaner and I really like these paper  towel microfibers because they tear off easily you   can see how they're completely perforated so they  completely just tear right off and so it's a clean   nice absorbent microfiber towel so basically the  process is very easy you just spray and you wipe   it off now I really need to analyze all the parts  on the vehicle and what will show and what will   not because you do not want to tape something off  that you need Paint on you can see that this car   was red or is red at the particular moment and  it will remain red however it's going to change   color to gray first and a lot of these areas that  get paint when a door is open you really need to   make sure that you know exactly where they're  at so that you can put paint down so when the   vehicle is all done and your doors are open you  don't see any of the old red paint or any of the   gray Sealer or undercoating that you're going  to be placing on and once you have everything   completely cleaned off go ahead and give it a  good 10 or 20 minutes to really just let it air   out sometimes the cleaners can go into crevices  that you just don't see or you just can't wipe   and you really want to make sure that that has  time to dry because it can be a headache if you   go to paint over something that is still wet okay  so make sure you give enough time when you're   doing any sort of spray job especially a complex  one like this we're now ready to apply the sealer   for this particular product we're using Eastwood's  epoxy primer so once it's mixed up properly just   add 20 percent reducer to the mix now there's  other different types of sealers on the market   that you can use as well but when you go to pick  a sealer make sure you're picking a 2K sealer what   a 2K sealer means it is a two part meaning it has  an activator an activator will lock down the paint   and make sure everything it dries properly and  cares properly so you have a long lasting repair   usually with sealer It Coats in just one coat and  you are covered if you don't want to seal you also   do have another option of fully primering like you  saw in the first steps the only downside to this   is that you will have to once again sand down the  primer sealer is meant to be painted over without   necessarily long dry times or sanding once again  if you don't feel comfortable sealing you can   definitely primer and then from there you can sand  the primer down and just go into this next stage   now not all paints will require a ground coat but  paints like red colors like red blue yellow those   colors require usually in any system a ground  coat and since we're using the OEM select paint   by Eastwood this particular paint system requires  an undercoat and this undercoat 100 needs to be on   every single panel before you apply the base now  this is the color for the specific Mazda color   that we're putting on this particular vehicle not  all colors will come with the undercoat of this   color depending on the actual color itself and if  it requires the undercoat at all now after about   just 15-20 minutes of that sealer it's dry it's  about 100 degrees in the spray booth so it dries   pretty quick and we're going to go ahead and lay  this down this is just like ground coat it's not   a sealer it's a base coat basically so it's a lot  easier to spray than any sealer you don't have to   worry about dust or anything like that we're going  to use the same spray gun and get this laid down   when it comes to spraying a ground coat it's  very important to remember that this is not   a sealer coat a sealer is completely different  from a ground coat because a ground coat is a   base coat the formulas and the mixtures are  completely different a base coat is mixed   up with reducer or at sealers and primers  are mixed up with activators and hardeners   for the ground coat I'm using a 1.2 or 1.3  which will work perfect for your use a 1.2   might get you less paint but it will dry quicker  luckily for us it covered very well in just one   coat it's very important to make sure you have  complete coverage when spraying your ground coat   if you don't get complete coverage with your  ground coat and you apply the next coating then   you might find spots modeling or other paint  issues when the job is done make sure you take   enough time to get full coverage if you need to  apply two coats wait 10 minutes in between coats   first coat down covered pretty well we're  going to allow this to dry a good uh 15 minutes   you can see it's flashing off flashing off  means it's kind of smooth looking matte looking   and I like that I laid down smooth it's very  important for a nice spray job that your coats   are laying down smooth if they're not then bust  out the 600 grit and lightly scuff it because you   want to make sure that the top coats after this  are nice and smooth we can see we did our cut ends   here and we're going to be overlaying color two  to three inches past where we're spraying and then   when it comes down to time to put this back on the  vehicle we'll just scuff this up same thing over   here see how we're putting it two or three inches  past the other panels are getting full coverage   and then we'll start with our next coat and  the paint we're going to be using is one of   the toughest colors 46v we're going to test out  the OEM select paint this is the midco and then   it has a top coat it is a beautiful metallic Pearl  and we can see how nice that color is and we're   going to go apply this right now to all of our cut  in parts and we're going to be using the segola   we have the aqua cap the DVR Aqua cap so we can  apply it pretty quick and get it to lay down nice   we're now ready to spray our base coat now  the one thing I love about spraying a base   coat over a ground coat is how uniformly it lays  down so if we had not put down this ground coat   initially then we would have a lot of areas where  our breakthroughs were that were see-through-ish   and we would have to do many coats in order just  to get coverage over those lighter areas now one   thing I do want to really stress to you all  is that your jammed area since they're smaller   they're contoured they are going to cover much  quicker rather than let's say a hood or a door   or a fender a quarter panel that type of thing  the reason why you have to be careful is because   you're not going to get the full coverage in your  door jamb if you're just looking at it and saying   it's covered you need to do a spray out card to  see what the amount of full coverage would be in   this case it's about three to four coats and just  two coats on the jams it appears to be covered   because there's no see-through areas however it  is not the true color because we don't have true   coverage so make sure you take that into account  especially if you're doing any sort of candy job   or anything with a metallic that more coats you  put on will get darker you want to make sure that   they're the same so the outside of the body of  the vehicle matches the doors when you open them   and now we put down three coats of our base  and it's got great coverage I really love the   way that this color looks over that black ground  coat it just gives it that nice deep rich red uh   that we're used to on a 46v so now we're going  to apply that top coat it's going to be like a   translucent red and check this out guys it's like  a bloody red remember this is a OEM color comes   on the Mazdas I just love that it's translucent  I think we're gonna put two coats on uh since   we're doing a complete paint job we make the rules  here with the mid coat if we were trying to match   something then we would have to do spray outs  and such but let's go ahead and get this loaded   into the gun and let's lay down two coats about 10  minutes in between coats now for this particular   top coat that is tinted you only have to really  apply two to three coats if you're doing an all   over spray job now for our case I like the way  it looked just after two coats but keep in mind   if you're purchasing this paint to match something  you're going to need to do a spray out card ahead   of time to see how many coats you'll need to  appropriately cover once again when spraying   this you want to spray it as even as possible  if you spray too much and one area you might   get a darker area than you would on the rest of  the panel so make sure you're overlapping in and   around 75 percent and get a nice even stroke and  after that two coats of mid it's really got a deep   red look even deeper than it was with the base now  you're going to want to give this a good 20 to 25   minutes let all the solvents come out of the paint  we got sealer we've got ground coat we've got base   coat we've got top coat mid coat we got a lot of  solvent now since the start of this project with   the sealer till now I've allowed two hours time  working time so make sure you have enough time   in the booth to really allow this to dry out I'm  giving about maybe 15 minutes between every coat I   don't want any solvent pop when it comes to clear  coat which we're going to apply right now and a   clear that we're going to be using is a four to  one show car clear coat now we're really testing   out those Eastwood products to see if they hold  up and this is going to be a good test with the   clear will it die back will it hold its gloss  will it have enough body to it so it says it's   a show clear it's a four to one so it's going  to be a little bit thicker we're going to go   ahead and mix it up and start applying two coats  about 15 minutes in between our coats [Music] all right it's now time to apply that clear coat to the  inside of our jams and this is great practice   for when the time comes to actually spray the jams  on a vehicle and to actually spray the vehicle as   it is now we're going to be running two coats of  clear coat but my best advice to you guys is on   that first coat you don't have to go full wet  the reason being that there's a lot of Curves   and a lot of areas where the paint can get hung  up and even roll off a body Edge and just drip   so you want to make sure that that first coat  is medium wet not full wet if you're full wet   it it might just slide right off of the base coat  and we don't want that so on this first coat just   get the clear coat on and then on the second  coat about 10 minutes later you can put it on   a little bit wetter now on the flat panels like  the inside of the hood those panels you can go a   little bit wetter on because they're going to take  a little bit more material to flow out you always   want to make sure when that hood is popped it if  you're looking for that show car look that it is   completely flat or as flat as you can get it now  when you're applying a flat Hood like this make   sure that you're moving just a little bit slower  on the jams and other areas you can move a little   bit faster remembering to overlap at least two  to three inches past the area in which you're   painting with the doors all completed and dry as  well as the underside of the hood it's now time to   start the cut in on the actual vehicle now the cut  in or the jam is painting the parts on the vehicle   that cannot be painted once everything's assembled  once again on this particular vehicle we're going   to be paying the whole car together because it's  a very complex color and we don't want to risk   panels not matching up if painted separately  so it's always going to be best on your complex   colors especially this one to paint everything  together now to do our cut in everything is   prepared with a 400 grit completely and completely  taped off as well we'll be taking the paint as far   as it was at the OEM and we will be completing  the cut in about three or four inches past the   door jamb now one thing I did do is I went around  all of the perimeter of where we're going to be   doing a cut in and I've sanded that also with the  400 grit as well just to make sure that any paint   does lay on 400 grit scratch and the gas cap  area will receive a cut in because we'll put   the gas cover back on when it comes time to paint  for this particular vehicle we're going to paint   the rear pan make sure it all looks good as well  as the areas around the tailgate we want to ensure   that this area is all matching when we go to put  the tailgate back on and the glass we'll carry   it around to the front area of the passenger side  and we'll perform the same exact cut in let's go   ahead and get started with our sealer our ground  coat our base coat our midcoat and the clear coat foreign foreign here it is guys we've knocked  down two coats of clear   check it out beautiful gloss all the way  inside these are details that I really love   on a vehicle when it's completely colored all  the way to the edge there's no paint on any of   the seals everything's removed so at this point  now we're going to allow this to completely dry   and then the guys will get everything back  together on the vehicle and then from there   we can treat it like a regular spray job and  I'll be showing you the different techniques   that you can do for taping up your door jambs  so that you don't get the overspray inside or   anywhere else so right now the car is officially  jammed out and it's ready to get reassembled   step four preparing the primer for paint once  the vehicle is all back together it's time to   get everything prepared for paint you'll see that  the overspray has gone about four to five inches   past the primered area now in this case what we  want to do is get everything completely initially   sanded down with a 400 grit this will help really  knock it down smooth once again now in this case   we are not going to be sealing the vehicle so I  recommend finishing it up with a P600 grip make   sure to check the description find Links of  all of the materials we're using we're using   Eagle abraces P400 grit and P600 it really cuts it  down nice I also recommend if you didn't already   washing down the vehicle before it hits the booth  step 5 masking the vehicle for a paint once we   get the car back in the booth we have Mario for  Mario's pain class give us a hand today and the   owner John when I go ahead and get it cleaned up  now remember how we talked about the cut-ins and   some people thought that that could possibly  be an issue but we're going to show you how we   handle it first off we're going to clean up all of  our marks from primer sanding and then we're going   to go ahead and make sure that we get everything  completely masked off so now we're going over the   process of how to mask the jams now every vehicle  will be a little bit different based off how   the body lines orientate inside a door jamb but  basically we're lucky here because we're going to   do something that we most commonly don't do we're  not going to do soft Edge I'm going to run a fine   line uh tape blue vinyl right in this corner  so you're never going to see the transition so   anyone that's worried about overspray or anything  like that you're not going to have to worry about   it because we're going to tuck it right in the  middle now the best thing about this is since   this does not have the rubber seals in yet the  door will actually go in much further so check   that out we'll be able to get that Leading Edge  and cover it again with our color as we passed   by on the quarter panel on a door and this way we  make sure that we have the same exact color all   the way through and we don't have to worry about  any mismatching if we're painting it separately now we'll apply our blue vinyl tape and tuck  it right into the corner here now we don't have   to worry about any overspray or any fuzzy line  because the paint will come right up to this Edge   and we'll pull it off after we're all done it's  curing and you won't see any sort of transition and now the door jamb has all been taped  up along with the door shell even into the   panel where it meets the fender so none of that  overspray will get where we don't want it to and   when paper meets paper there's no overspray and  we still can get the inside access of that door   jamb on the quarter panel we also tape the  inside of the door once we remove the fender   just to ensure a nicer clean paint job and once  again no overspray where we don't want it to be on the top side of the door the tape is back  Mass this technique will leave a soft Edge   right underneath our door jamb area on our  a B and C pillar inside the vehicle Mario is   back masking on the inside of the vehicle so  that we can lay down their paper on top of it   on the inside of the engine bay underneath the  hood we use a 36 inch paper followed by 18 inch   we did 18 inch on both sides keeping the overspray  off now over here where we've cleared we're going   to use a soft Edge foam tape you can use a foam  tape or you can even use a back mask tape or even   a tape that's folded on itself just so it creates  a soft Edge right here at the corner of the fender   and this is what it should look like so what  I did is I put a piece of tape over it because   sometimes the foam tape can fall so I put the  foam tape right at the edge here and then I put   the masking tape right over that and remember when  you have masking and paper on paper that creates a   nice seal for dust and contaminants to keep out of  the paint job you can see how we're doing it we're   gonna do the same thing over here over on this  side we have yet to do the door jamb but we're   going to follow that same exact technique as we  did on the driver side over here on the back you   can see all of our painted parts are all going  to be covered with white masking paper the White   and the smart brand and most brands is the thin  paint paper that's the one that's going to allow   you to cut and not Dull up the razor typically  the green or the brown is for Bodywork and with   the passenger side all done we can now close the  hood and get that paper to paper contact so we   have a nice clean finish around this area whenever  I paint something I always like to leave the hood   up just a little bit and not in a complete closed  position because sometimes that creates too much   pressure on the foam tape and if you don't treat  this foam tape properly what can happen is it can   engage too much with the paint surface and what  happens is you'll get crusty paint on the edges   so what I like to do is just have it tamper  over the top of it and usually that does the   trick over here on the passenger side door jamb  same exact thing you can see we've masked up all   the areas that we want to and we're in our fine  line you want to run your fine line last so you   can pull it off first and we have all of our jams  completely taped up and this is the back masking   that we were talking about on the driver's side  you can see how it's stuck on pretty much upside   down or backwards and once we close the door here  what happens is then we can tape on top of it with   our masking paper and get a nice clean seal all  the way through we'll run one piece of paper on   this whole complete side and then the other side  as well now here we're using 18 inch paper now   you're going to find that we're using paper more  rather than using the plastic because this is a   full paint job and it's going to help you out also  if you get a masking tree this masking tree stand   is really going to help with the paper to get a  piece of tape on it and just help things move a   lot quicker you can see we're using a combination  of six inch 18 inch and 36 inch white paper and   the white paper is much thinner and it's perfect  for painting and when you go to cut it like we   said earlier it does not gold that blade and it  cuts nice and clean so we want to make sure that   everything is completely tight so after we put  down that masking paper then we'll come along   with our masking tape we're just finishing up here  the masking on the car we decided to go with paper   all around just a little bit easier when you're  doing it all over because there's so much tape and   you don't have to worry about the plastic sticking  and trying to pull it over and the plastic ripping   we're going to be finishing things up here with  their pre-painting prep getting everything clean   we're using the microfiber paper towels which are  really good because they're really absorbent and   you can get a few uses out of them whether  you wash them or throw them away or use a   pre-painting prep on the whole vehicle and  then we're ready to start spraying [Music] foreign a couple things and I wanted to mention about  spraying this color this color is almost pretty   much like a candy and the best way in my  opinion doing a typical job like this is   to spray the whole entire car through with  everything on the vehicle you know there's   a lot of different variables and components  that go into getting the color to match and   we're spraying it separately it can be done but  it just adds another element that you know the   possibility of it not matching and we don't want  that so by doing the cut in we pretty much have   given no chance to failure as far as the color not  matching with the with the ground code with the   base coat the top coat we want to ensure a uniform  color all the way through you know sometimes on a   particular color like this it might be hard to  get nice and even and sometimes if we're doing   those parts apart we might be able to get a  fender even but then we might not be able to   get a door even and we end up putting more coats  on that door to get it even and guess what when   we go to put it back on the car it doesn't match  so visually here we can see what's happening now   in a true do Yourself fashion do-it-yourself  fashion I'm not going to seal this I actually   probably wouldn't even seal it in a  professional fashion because here's why   the sealer is going to add a little bit more let's  say dirt to the paint everything's primed any cut   through you see it's to primer so we're going to  be using our ground coat now ground coats base   coat so it's not going to be as thick it's going  to dry quicker one thing is for sure on this car   you need to have a ground coat before you put the  base coat down if you don't it's never going to   be even the ground coat is black let's go mix  it up right now so that's the ground coat we   were talking about now this particular paint it's  going to come mixed for you already but for me in   my situation I talked to Eastwood and they send  a little bit more paint to me so I'm going to   be mixing in the reducer one to one so this is  ground coat base coat it's not a 2K Sealer or   anything remember we use the sealer on the actual  uh door jambs well we're not doing that here okay   so we'll go ahead and we'll add our reducer to  that and then one to one so pretty much this is   going to be a full cup and what the reducer does  it's going to help the paint get to the panel and   then it's pretty much the solvents are going to  come out of the paint and it's going to smooth out   so it might go on wet it might go on ugly but  once it dries it's gonna look beautiful let's   apply it right now step six the paint application  and right after the vehicle is clean you're going   to want to go over it with a tack cloth attack  cloth is going to pick up any last minute debris   and also a special help to Mario Mario came in  and helped us out if you guys don't know I've   been working with Mario for quite a few years now  it's got his own YouTube channel Mario King class   what do you think about this project it's like  something we've never done before 46v we've never   painted this color but this is exciting you know  the dual color change is much more exciting than   just painting the same boring color so thanks to  Brian for having me here on theme Society is gonna   be meant guys we're doing something kind of cool  on one of my last videos with Pedro we actually   painted the car together with two different hoses  so that's really going to help us out and the   reason why is keeping that wet Edge you know it's  so difficult to paint a vehicle uh one person and   kind of keep jumping all around and keep it in one  nice clean um paint job but we're going to help   eliminate that by starting at the top and moving  down down down both sides and we're going to see   how it works out we're ready to spray that black  right now so let's jump right into it and getting   that ground coat on I'm starting on my side and  then Mario picks it up on his side by no means   necessary though do you ever need two painters  to paint a car but this is a collaboration and   it really did help keep that wet Edge and what is  that wet Edge basically well at the edge of your   pattern it's going to be wet like in the middle of  the hood here it's starting to have that wet Edge   and if I had to jump around somewhere else that  edge is going to dry so by having this little bit   of extra help our wet edges will connect here  in the middle of the hood and we won't have to   worry about any dry Edge now this isn't really  as important as it is when you're clear coating   because you want your clear coat to be like one  big run but your base coat is also important too   if you're spraying a metallic finish because  you want your metallic to land on something   smooth and not dry now if I was painting this by  myself I would probably start at the bottom and   work my way all the way completely over now some  people might say start at the top but that's going   to be difficult to keep a wet Edge so by starting  let's say the driver's side bottom basically what   you're going to do is work that wet Edge from the  bottom to the top and back down the passenger side foreign stuff covered in one coat I'm really  surprised now let's go ahead and let it flash   let's give it a good 25 minutes it's going to  look all kind of matte and then we're ready to   spray that base coat the black is all flashed  off now we're going to go ahead and get that   beautiful 46v base coat all mixed up again for  us it's one to one but for you guys if you get   the OEM select paint it's going to come already  ready to go you won't even need to reduce it like   we're doing here and here's what it should look  like completely flashed off almost like a matte   satin finish this is a good indication that you  are ready for the next coat so if you didn't give   it enough time and it doesn't look like this  give it a little bit more time this is a long   paint job a lot of coats let's get rolling with  that base coat right now and just a reminder that   this is a factory color an oem color that comes on  Mazdas and we chose it because of the way it looks   in different lightings and how fine and crisp the  metallic Pearl is so here we're going to be doing   our application and we're both actually using our  sagola spray guns I'm using the 4600 and so is my   partner Mario we have slightly different air caps  are running but we're getting the same finish now   what I like to do is try my best to walk a panel  when using this type of color and that's really   going to help keep everything as even as possible  I'm running in around 80 percent overlap but what   I'm really doing guys is I'm watching the paint  and I'm adjusting if it's not covering enough then   I'll increase my overlap and then vice versa  guys first coat down the worst thing you can   do with this situation is try to jump into another  coat let this flash it's already starting to flash   now we actually come in at night uh we came in  around after 4 P.M to start spraying it's about   5 6 p.m now temperatures gonna be around 78 79  degrees it's really helping us out because the   paint's going to go on smooth and we're not going  to really have any model issues because of that so   check it out Mario's got his side done and being  able to spray two people at one time it just makes   the paint job so much better so much smoother  because the dots are all connected all right   it's looking pretty good after about 15 to 20  minutes you can apply your second coat of paint   and you can apply it just the same way you applied  your first coat now anywhere in between coats when   it's dry you can use the assistance of a hand  pad and k600 I'll put this in the description   and basically if you have any areas that need a  light scuff let's say there's a piece of dirt or   something that just looks a little bit funky you  can come over here and do it now if you don't seal   sometimes where your cut in is and the clear  it will look a little bit weird when the base   goes to cover it if you didn't get it perfectly  sanded so those areas once it's dry just go ahead   and give it a quick little k600 and you can go  over again with the tack rag just to pick up any   debris over those areas if you're really having a  dirty paint job you can do this to the whole car   but make sure it's perfectly dry you always need  to apply at least one full coat of base after you   do this if not two to make sure that your your  paint is covered properly for our application   we put up to four coats of Base to get the proper  coverage and make sure there wasn't any striping   one thing you're going to want to do after that  fourth coat when you figured out that it looks   completely covered it's get yourself like in the  sunlight you can get this online I'll leave it   in the description they're pretty cheap and it's  cheap insurance I'm checking the car I'm making   sure that uh there's no areas that look modeled  I gotta say this paint laid down pretty good four   coats a little excessive but that's what it  took to get it right and to make sure that we   had proper coverage and we didn't really have to  go over anything else to give it a better look we   didn't have to sand it down and and start again  so I'm happy with that but Reds do take a while   to cover and we wanted to make sure we had full  coverage and that's just what we have here so   let's go ahead let's mix up that red tint that  bloody red top coat that's gonna give it that   beautiful candy appearance and then from there  we'll go ahead and clear coat it but I'm liking   the way that this looks so far right before we  put that mid coat on I want to show you guys   this paint suit I'm going to put on it's a collab  paint suit it's a collab between paint society and   collab this is a very lightweight suit very good  I'm going to show you exactly what we've got here   because you get your own two they're available on  Amazon I'll put them in a link but I really think   it's cool because it it's got our logo this is  our community logo and this logo means everything   because don't overthink it it's just paint that's  what I've been trying to preach to you guys it   really does help out when you're in the thick  of things now on the front side you'll have the   logo that's the pink Society logo now mine says  Brian yours will actually say paint Society so   go ahead and check out the link it comes in the  full suit and the lab coat as well that you saw   me before so I'm gonna go and pop this on and  then pop on that red transparent candy let's go foreign side this side has a gas cap [Laughter] hold on let me uh let me get halfway all right there we go I got the whole Hood okay foreign foreign so we got the whole car and two coats really  quick with the uh the top coat for this you   can go back to back and that's all we're going  to do I'm happy with the color let's give this   25 minutes to flash and then we're gonna clear  coat it you guys ready let's do it and we have   our four to one show car clear all mixed up and  we're gonna end up putting three coats on and   we're gonna put about 10 to 15 minutes between  that first and second coat and then we're going   to extend it about 20 to 30 minutes between the  second and third the reason being is we really   want to build up that film thickness because we  do have a lot of layers of paint so we're going   to be using still our cigolas we make sure that  every time we're done after our coat we completely   break it down we would hate for any of the paint  from the prior coats to land in the clear coat   finish now if you're a do-it-yourselfer you do  not need more than one gun you can simply just   clean it out now a lot of the guns on the market  they do come with different air cap just like the   segola you know the iwatas the developers they  all come with different air caps that you can   use for let's say base and clear if I'm just being  honest as a painter if you're a do-it-yourselfer   just run one air cap you're not going to notice  enough of a difference as if you were spraying   every single day your first coat you just want to  get that paint on there connect the dots is what   I like to say medium wet you don't want to put  it on too wet because you could have some runs   running right off of that base coat allow that  let's say 10 to 15 to 20 minutes between that   first and second coat it's a really really tack up  and then that creates like a glue barrier for that   second coat to really land on and then eventually  that third coat so let's take a closer look   three coats is gonna look good we knocked  down the first coat come over here   pretty clean on video right right there's a couple  in the in the hood it's a little bit dry because   it's trying to cover up all that paint right don't  worry about it don't try to get it all beautiful   second maybe even three coats we'll see but  we're gonna get about 10 15 minutes between   this and the second coat this is beautiful really  loving it let's let it cure for a little bit and   then we'll hit it up with the second coat make  it even more shiny with your second coat you can   slow it down just a little bit and apply more  paint because now the body of the car is going   to be able to hold it and sustain it a little bit  better so second coat you can lay it on a little   bit heavier so this is the third coat we've  given a digital time after that second coat   this third coat we're putting it on only  three coats this time because there's so   many layers of paint we need to cover it's  looking really good now take a look at it   but after this slick as anything let's start  laying on the third coat I would also advise   three coats for anyone spraying in their garage  because you're going to have a lot of wet sanding   and buffing now most uh clear coats will say two  to three coats until film buildness is reached   and for you guys in your garage and even for  us with all these layers of paint three coats   is what we chose to go with and the reason being  is because you're gonna remove some of that clear   when it comes to sanding now this particular job  really came out nice so we will not be leveling   the whole entire car because it is pretty smooth  as is but it is because that third coat went on   that it smoothed things out and did not have to  get into the blocking of the clear and buffing   it so instead what we will have to do with this  vehicle is just going around to the little pieces   of dirt and spot nibbing them out sanding them  and buffing them rather than having to sand down a   whole vehicle and polish it is a huge undertaking  my word of advice to you all especially if you're   in your garage and it comes out really dirty you  can use a technique of flow coating basically just   sanding it down with P600 making sure not  to burn through and recording it with clear [Music]   it's right there it's not a big deal could have been worse  the host hit the paint job the very last   moment of the paint job Mr Mr uh what's the  theory if it can happen if it will happen   wow we did it we did it now you guys want to  know when did we take the the tape off I don't   have anything really that's going to bridge  here because we removed all the windows let   it dry overnight the fine lines fine we'll take  it off the next day this looks beautiful wow this   looks good now in the case of this particular  vehicle there wasn't really any tape bridging   with the clear coat but I understand that most of  my do-it-yourselfers in the garage aren't going   to remove the Windows and everything it takes to  get a perfect spray job so if you have tape that   is really close to a molding then go ahead and  remove that about 30 minutes after you sprayed   your last coat of clear coat and what works best  is if you were just to take that tape and line it   at the edge of the molding as your last piece  of tape when you go to mask the car so you can   just pull off that tape instead of having to pull  back all the masking here we're back the next day   and we can unmask it with no problem and then go  into the door jamb so we can see clearly we have   a beautiful transition since I was able to kind  of sneak that fine line into that little Groove   there you cannot tell at all that this was painted  at two different times the color match the finish   everything is perfect there's no overspray so  I really hope that you guys learned a lot from   this Complete Car Guide color change guide  there's a lot of great information make sure   you watch this many times there's a lot of great  information that you will pick up from watching it   more than once I'm going to leave you with the  unmasking and pulling this vehicle out of the   paint booth and looking at some final shots  of the car partially back together hey guys   this is Brian from paint Society reminding  you don't overthink it it's just me [Music] oh foreign [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music]

Channel: Paint Society

Views: 355,679

Keywords: paintjob, diy, how to, bad paint, gloss, refinish, accident, learn, autobody, collision, booth, repair, copart, harbor, freight, sata, iwata, toyotA, classic, bel air, restoration, rust, old, new

Id: 2YooB9pN8rk

Length: 54min 2sec (3242 seconds)

Published: Sat Sep 09 2023