Beginner's Guide: How To Paint A Car At Home In 4 Easy Steps - Eastwood

if you want results like this from a driveway paint job stay tuned mark here Rd manager with the Eastwood company the video you're about to see is how to paint your car in four easy steps we're gonna be using the Corvair door you see behind me but these techniques that you're gonna see will apply to the entire car also let's get started okay this particular door we have stripped down to bare metal I actually fabricated the door scandal on this one but what you want to do is either use abrasive blasting chemical strippers or actually paper and a DA to get down to the bare metal it's the best place to start now that we have it stripped down we're gonna use our free to remove any grease wax oils any contaminants on the surface you want to do this before you do any further sanding or filler because you don't want to bury those into the metal what you see here is we're taping off the vent window this was installed in the door just to make it a lot easier than trying to do this with fresh paint on it what we do want to do is protect the nice new seals that we bought so we're gonna mask those carefully at the door edge as you can see we're using a stir stick here to make sure that the tape gets between the actual seal and the metal of the door itself so we don't have a line later now we're gonna go ahead and mask off with paper tip here is don't use Christmas wrapping paper or newspaper the solids gonna bleed right through that use masking paper design for automotive paints what I'm doing now is applying guide coat this is used to identify any of your highs and lows on the panel its stealth stuff that your eye may miss I'm applying the guide coat and an even film across the entire panel now I'm gonna block that with the 80 grit and the long block a tip here is to use the longest board that you can that'll fit the panel I'm gonna block this in a crosshatch pattern what this does is this assures that you're maintaining a level surface and we're gonna use this same technique through the entire process here even all the way up to our color sanding as you can see from the horizontal lines we've identified the lows from when we use the English wheel to make this panel what we're gonna do now is skim coat the entire door knowing that we're gonna remove about 80% of the product but what this does is assures us that we have even coverage now I'm going to wipe the panel again with pre I want to make sure that we remove any type of grease contaminants as I said earlier you don't want to bury these into the base metal and then have them come back at you later now I'm mixing up our filler mix as per the instructions but two tips here need the hardener these things settle out and end up dumping a lot of liquid onto your fresh filler and second don't mix on cardboard the hardener itself will actually be absorbed into the fibers they're Mixel and dedicated paper or plastic mixing board now I applied the skim coat the entire panel as you see and then we're gonna give it it's about 15 minutes here to harden now I'm hitting it with the 80 grit in the long board we're using the 18 inch board again in the 80 grit paper and what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna sand from the style line to an edge I'm not gonna just sand couple inches in the center and just randomly move about the panel you have to think about as one fluid motion you want to be standing complete edge to edge line to line or body seam wherever you have a cut off again in the crosshatch pattern this will assure us our dead level flat surface so we just finished the first round of block sanding and it's coming out pretty good I want to hit it one more time to better identify any of the highs and the lows I'm applying our guide code again this time we're using it not only to identify the low spots but also to make sure that we're removing each of our previous grit sanding marks which you'll see in a minute here I'm sanding the panel again in our crosshatch pattern using the 18 inch block and the 80 grand what you want to do is progressively move up through your grits starting with 80 to 120 180 220 all the way up to 320 don't skip a step you're gonna think you're saving time right now what's gonna happen is when you get into base coat you're gonna see those deep scratches you need to progressively move up through the grits using the guide coat to assure that you've removed the previous grit sanding scratches this will assure a dead level and flat surface now what we've done is we've identified a couple lows that are gonna need a quick little skim coat of filler so I'll mix that up and just hit those areas don't worry about the bear spots and the cut through that you see here we're gonna take care of all that with epoxy primer in the next step it's always a good idea to remove any dust and debris using the tack cloth before applying any coatings I'll go ahead apply the guide coat and continue with the 120 on up through the grits to 320 here you can really see the importance of guide coat in identifying remaining 80 grit sanding scratches I still have to remove along with any other imperfections you can even see the difference in identifying the 80 and 120 grit scratches using the guy coat with the final block sanding of the filler completed we're ready to prep the paddle for epoxy primary after I did the final wipe down with pre and a tack rag I began mixing the epoxy paint or epoxy paint is a 1 to 1 ratio easy to mix and very easy to apply even for a beginner and remember you're gonna be blocking most of this down anyhow so you don't have to worry about a little nip here or a run now that we have the epoxy mixed up we're gonna go ahead and filter that into the gun with the lid one you're gonna have a vent on the top of your gravity feed guns here take that remove it and you'll see a small opening in there point that orifice towards you you don't want to take the chance of having any paint drip out of the vent won't to the surface itself before you spray the panel go ahead and test your fan pattern on a piece of masking paper I've adjusted the gun to about a 10 inch fan pattern here here's a tip moving forward what you want to do is spray all your jams and edges first then your main section if you do it opposite this you'll end up with overspray on the door skin I'm using a large fan pattern here for for a couple different reasons as you see we're spraying outside just as you're gonna be doing on your driveway what you want to do is you want to get the product on and get out we're using the epoxy primer here because there's excellent heejun to both the bare metal and the body filler I'm coming across the panel with a tack coat and then ninety degrees from that with a full wet coat to assure proper coverage [Music] going ahead and applying to full wet coats first hitting the edges and jams and then the main door skin as you can see we're spraying outside not everybody has a booth or access to a booth but don't worry don't be afraid with the right products and the right tools you're gonna end up with great results and don't be worried if you have a little bit of trash or a bug lands in we'll show you how to take care of that well there you go we had a bird land on the door anyhow you walked around a little area but good thing you had little feet and those things will level out we'll be able to fill it with the surfacer now we're back to the 18-inch board and we're using 320 we're gonna go ahead and block out this entire surface again using our crosshatch and going from bodyline to edge of panel remember you want to use the largest board that will fit your panel to assure an even and level surface the tip here is to use an abrasive pad instead of your paper around these irregular surfaces it tends to conform to them more easily okay here we are with our final wipe and tack a tip here again always wear rubber gloves you're gonna have on your hands you don't want to get that into your primer another tip here when using your lint-free cloth is always flip to a clean surface what you don't want to do is just move contaminants from one edge of the paddle to the other then go ahead and do your final tack in preparation for our urethane surface now we're gonna go ahead and apply the urethane primer surfacer mix per the instructions strain and fill the gun here's a little tip when spraying outside do your final tack rag just seconds before you're about to apply the paint this assures you have the cleanest surface possible I'm holding the gun about 10 inches from the surface and using a 50% overlap an important tip here is to maintain a consistent gun to paddle distance to avoid any heavy spots or light spray once the urethane surface is completely cured we're gonna go ahead and begin our block sanding process again apply the guide coat and here we're starting with a 320 grit on our 18-inch board using the crosshatch pattern continue up to 600 grit now I'm switching over to wet sanding the reason for that is the water tends to keep the paper clean you get a little bit better cut and a much much finer cut so we'll continue with that up to the 600 grit again not skipping any grits in between here I'm using a lint-free rag to get the majority of the dust off the panel most important step here is using your compressed air and you want to blow out any of the holes crevices or seams where dust and water may be trapped you want to get them out now before the paint gun finds them so that's why we're using at least fifty to sixty psi so that we're above the pressure of what your guns gonna be using the Eastwood mixing cups the mixed our base coats the appropriate ratio went ahead strained and filled the cup here I'm doing my final tack rag seconds before applying paint again spray your jams and edges first then come across with a 50 percent overlap go ahead and spray two to three full wet coats you you'll notice I'm applying additional coats ninety-degree to the first coat what this does this helps me achieve a more level surface and eliminate any Tiger striping especially when spraying metallics I'm spraying our eastwood ProStreet red here using the same 50% overlap and consistent gun to panel distance as you can see I'm using the same gun for our epoxy primer our urethane base coat and also for the clear the only thing we're doing is changing out the needle nozzle size after our base coat has completely cured we're gonna begin the wet sanding process as you can see we're standing a kiddie pool but trust me this will save you a lot of time and headache and cleanup especially on a driveway or garage floor so we're starting with 600 wet go ahead and continue in that crosshatch pattern that we've been using at this point I've switched at a 6-inch block while we're wet sanding we're no longer shaping the paddle so it's okay to use the smaller block which is more controllable I'm simply cutting off the tops of the nibs hitting any dirt or debris that may have landed in the coating here's a tip if you find during the color sanding process that you cut through your color back into your primer simply take a paper matchstick or a corner of a paper towel and touch it up with some base coat with our urethane clear accurately mixed strained and poured into the cup it's time to spray seconds before spraying do your final tack rag go ahead and apply two to three full wet coats just as you did base with your edges first then your main panel we're spraying our two-to-one european clear which is a very user friendly clear we have three different temperature activators simply match them up to the temperature of the day you'll be spraying and you'll achieve excellent results with beautiful flow out we're spraying to clear 45 minutes after the base coat had cured and we finished our block sanding if you had to stop at this point for a day or two you're gonna need to sand the surface and go ahead through your pre cleaning prep just as we did prior to spraying base coat after 48 hours of allowing our clear to cure it was time to wet sand it so back into the pool started with a thousand grit again our crosshatch pattern and then moved up to 1,500 and 2,000 I'm using my wiper in-between grits here to not only clean the surface but I'm also checking to look for color when you're sanding clear it's gonna be a milky clear color if you find red on your wiper that means you cut through your clear which is no big deal finish out your block sanding and apply two more coats of clear [Music] once we're done with the wet sanding process it's time to move on to the buffing so go ahead and use a high-quality system to achieve that showroom shine I chose the Norton system which is a three pad system for three easy steps just remember to saturate the pads and use minimal pressure on the panel I'm starting with the wool pad which will remove our 2,000 grit sanding scratches I'll then follow that up with the two foam pads to achieve professional results as you progress through each of the pads you'll notice the depth of image and the clarity will become more pronounced now switch to the blue pad which will remove any of the swirl marks from our wool pad and you can clearly see the depth of image becoming more brilliant lastly I'll finish with the white pad which will give you that brilliant finish you've been after [Music] you can see the results we achieved the reflection the clarity and all this done outside you can see the Eastwood logo clearly in the paint can and even read the serial number of this hundred dollar bill as you can see we finished the door and we're more than happy with the results you can see by the dollar bill in there and reflection in the gallon can the depth of image is pretty spectacular especially for painting this outside so I hope this gives you the confidence to tackle a paint job at home even if you're outside you can see the results that we achieved it's no different doing this door then it would be a complete car it's just panel at a time that's the way you think about it so for detailed instruction list and all the tools required to complete this job at home go ahead and visit eastwood.com

Channel: Eastwood Company

Views: 6,104,582

Rating: 4.78759 out of 5

Keywords: eastwood, eastwoodco, beginners guide, beginner's guide, paint at home, painting at home, paint a car, painting a car, painting a car at home, car paint, automotive paint, dura block, dura-block, sanding panels, how to, how-to, step by step, hvlp paint gun, paint gun, spraying a car, body work, body filler, bondo, epoxy, primer, primers, basecoat, clear coat, wet sanding, block sanding, urethane, driveway paint job, how to paint a car, spray paint a car, guide

Id: Lw0ObOdWnRE

Length: 24min 5sec (1445 seconds)

Published: Thu Sep 07 2017