What a $10,000 Show Car Paint Job Looks Like!

[Music] [Music] oh [Music] [Music] with the EM1 in the body shop we're ready to start the body work now first what we're going to do is disassemble the doors we're going to get everything off the car that we can so we can have a nice clean refinish around all those edges so getting these doors off is going to be the first task and getting all the stickers off the VTEC stickers and the SI stickers in the back that's what we were doing there now the first step and first process is going to be blocking it out we're going to be using the existing paint which is still good as our guide to show us where our little ripples are now overall this car looked really really straight but we wanted to add a little bit of body filler to make sure it's 100% straight and looking really good when it goes down the road so we blocked this all out with 180 grit to smooth smooth it out as good as we could to give a good adhesion for when we laay down some of our glazing body filler and we can see here on our quarter panel in our trunk we're using that long block and those long strokes are going to allow for smoother looking finishes once paint lays down now this is going to be a glazing body filler which is super super thin now we can put this right over our sanded paint if it is good paint if it is not good paint which we'll see later you're going to have to strip it down so this is very very very thin it is not a thick filler so you have to make sure if you have any dents previous to this you need to go ahead and remove those dents because this is not thick enough to fill it think of it as a thick primer that is going to go into any little tiny tiny wave and once we go and sand it down it's going to be much flatter so let's get all our body filler [Music] down [Music] and after a good 30 minutes it's ready to sand now we're using 180 grit here on the Block once again and you'll see as we're sanding that about 90% of this filler comes off and it only remains in the very very shallow areas and we're going to take this same stand on every single part it is a lot but you know blocking it out is going to really level it off and you can't do this with a sander or anything like that because everything has to be done by hand in order to ensure that it is properly flattened out so once again we'll start off with cutting it down with an 80 grit and then we'll go into a 180 grit to smooth it off and the technique we're using is a cross-hatch pattern we're almost sanding in X style and this is going to make sure that that filler is really sand and uniform throughout the body panel we got the hood off of the car is where we're going to start our body work now we have Diaz going to circle the little dents that aren't so obvious now this whole area is a little bit wobbly so we're going to put Bondo over here just to kind of smooth it out a nice thin coat and there's some little dings and dents that you might miss once you go to sand it down so now is the time to get them so let's start stripping this down and getting some filler on it and smoothing it completely [Music] [Music] out [Music] [Music] a [Music] oh [Music] [Music] and we're getting all of our parts in filler first before we primed now we went over to the roof and the roof had old paint and it was cracking it was not a good substrate okay a good basis to put any filler or any paint on top because it was just going to crack again if the bottom layer is not good so we had to take this down to metal and you can see it was a lot a lot of work but the end process was beautiful now this whole car had the same paint that it had on the roof we would have to perform the same task but lucky for us the paint was really good condition and a good basis to do some body work over so we're starting by mixing up our DT M which is direct to metal primer which will protect any of the metal surfaces like the roof here and all of the other panels that are still showing metal so we'll go ahead and get everything all primered [Music] [Music] up [Music] n [Music] now [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] oh [Music] [Music] and there are still a bunch more parts as we finish up on this primering that will receive some work although the brand new parts like that Fender and the front bumper cover will not need any sort of body work or primer work like this which we show you in the next episode when it comes to prepping out these parts and getting them into a red primer and then eventually paint so we will see also the body moldings the side mirrors the spoiler all the accessories that really pull together and make this EM1 what it was when it rolled off the showroom floor so now it's that time we've been waiting for to get the actual vehicle all Santa down and ready for paint now the way I do things is a little bit different when attacking a restoration type of job so the way I like to do it is I like to focus my attention on painting the roof first however I'll go ahead and I'll sand down the whole entire vehicle just to make sure that one final prep that we have all of our bases covered and there's nowhere we need to go back and retouch so go ahead we'll completely sand down the whole vehicle with a DA sander in a P600 grit this will allow a nice smooth finish for our paint to lay down on now once that's all completely sanded down we'll go ahead and we'll roll this into the paint booth and you're going to notice that I'm going to once again just paint the roof and the reason why is this car is a little bit higher up it's on jack stands and we're leaning over and we really want to execute a beautiful job on the roof so we're going to focus our attention on the roof only so we can lean over we can get it nice and shiny and then from there what we'll do is we're able to pull it back out and then focus on the rest now for the paint Milano red I take myself a empty gallon and then I'm going to mix up 127 Oz just shy of a full gallon and we'll take all of the toners and we'll mix them together we'll take a few different colors to make this beautiful Milano red color whether it's a red a burgundy or white or a black all those mixes go into the actual formula itself to give you that beautiful Milano red that we all have come to love over the years once we have the reducer in there it's ready to go and we can just simply put our stir in and then we can pour it into our PPS cup and get spraying so let's go ahead and get this roof sprayed and then we'll continue on with the rest of the [Music] body [Music] [Music] [Music] know [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] the [Music] [Music] now with the roof all nice shiny and glossy we can unmask the rest of the vehicle and start with the prep and the painting on the rest of the vehicle here so basically we'll roll it back in after it's been all masked up and we're going to focus only on the quarter panels and doing the jams now the reason why you would paint a car all apart is because you want to wrap the paint around all of the edges now we're going to start here over in the front we're going to work our Jam area all the way to the quarter panels and this is just a great way to get full paint now keep in mind this project is a full restoration job this is not a regular paint job that you would have done at a shop they're just going to spray the outsides and and that's just about it but this is a full restoration job we're doing on this EM1 and something like this just takes a lot of time and effort to get every single surface prepared there wasn't a panel or Surface area on this vehicle that was ready for paint every single square inch of it needed to be thoroughly prepared so that when paint lies down well it looks this beautiful now we're using our red base coat right over our red primer so it covers fairly well and we got out of this with about three coats on all of the surfaces now you'll see in coming clips that we're going to spray the doors and the rest of the vehicle parts that will be installed on this beautiful EM1 so after base coat you can see that it's flashing off and drying with a little bit of a Sheen and it's ready for its clear coat now we only apply two coats of clear to the whole vehicle with a high solids clear just like this it is only needing two coats of clear back in the old days you would put on three or four coats of clear well one coat of the high solids clear equals about two or three of the old style clear coat so it's very thick and very UV resistant with a absolutely beautiful shine so let's go ahead and get the rest of this all cleared [Music] up [Music] [Music] n [Music] wow and this EM1 has never shined like this even at the factories now we talked about earlier about getting full paint coverage on all of our surfaces so we're going to start on the insides of the doors making sure that we prepare them properly so that when you open that door you would never know that they were resprayed at any given time we made sure to take our paint all the way up around the rail where the window goes and our complete inside of the jam as well we're following the same process and our paint will always match because it's coming from the exact same container so we don't have to worry about painting at separate times because it's the same exact process for each and every part I prefer to paint all parts separately because to get a nicer cleaner [Music] finish [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] with that beautiful finish on door well we had to make sure that there's a beautiful finish inside of the hood as well so that's exactly what we did over here we wanted to make sure this project was completely glossed out and you'll see in further clips that we pretty much glossed everything out no matter where it was on the vehicle and this stuff takes a lot of work a lot of sanding you need to use your maroon scuff pad to get into every single crevice and Edge so that you don't have any peeling paint and we laid down a red sealer here first and a sealer basically is a primer that you don't have to sand and this easily could have been a primer if it was mixed differently but the sealer coat all you got to do is top coat it with your red Milano base coat and you're good to go and then two coats of our clear coat and it's nice and shiny again shinier than most cars you'll see on the road where we have this inside of the hood now we'll follow it on the outside once again using our red sealer and we'll follow the same process as we've been doing on the whole entire vehicle we'll go ahead and Milano it and then we'll go ahead and clear coat it after that and the hood came out spectacular I can't wait to show you guys how absolutely stunning and beautiful and how shiny this EM1 Hood came out you always want to make sure on any vehicle you paint that the whole vehicle looks good but you want to make sure that hood is just completely crispy and beautiful because it's the focal point of any vehicle it's the first thing you see from the front end so we're moving on to the back end and remember where showed you and talked to you you guys about we're going to gloss out every single surface well that's just what we're doing you can see the inside of the trunk is completely base coat and clear coat so when you pop up that trunk well you know it's got the same finish and the same treatment as the rest of the actual vehicle itself and just look how stunning it looks this stuff makes me truly happy and as all the pieces are finished the puzzle pieces come together on the car and it looks absolutely stunning we'll follow up the same treatment on the exterior of the trunk as well as our other parts that we have for the [Music] vehicle [Music] that trunk came out beautiful now moving on to the bumper covers and front lips and things of that nature when it comes to this OEM part I like to go ahead and primer it first and I do actually primer over all the parts that should be black because later on I come back in with the sem trim paint and I will paint those black once it's Dy this is just the cleanest and easiest way to do it that I felt over the years of painting these parts so we have our rear lip here which was in excellent condition and these are very hard to find so just a little bit of a scuff maybe some primer and some areas for this part and we're rocking and rolling on this and other parts in the paint booth which will show you here in just a moment but you can see how many puzzle pieces it takes to complete a job like this this is a full complete restoration paint job every single Park it's sanded every single Park it's full paint and that takes time and energy and you can see the amount of work and materials put into a job like this and the finished product is just looking stunning so we'll go ahead and mark off our fog light covers that way well we cut them before we actually do the paint work just in case so we we Mark these off and we use a a salol type of tool and that really helps but it's always important to drill a hole first so you can fit that salol in there and I drill them at the corners and just makes things a lot easier when it comes to cutting out these fog light covers now on each every one of these bumpers it has a scribe line that you follow and I just highlighted that in yellow just to make it a little bit easier for cutting so you can actually see it before you cut because you don't want any slips when you're doing this type of work especially on on an oem bumper cover that's brand spanking new so once we have this all cut out then we'll continue on into the paint booth and get all of our parts well all [Music] painted [Music] oh [Music] n [Music] oh [Music] oh

Channel: Paint Society

Views: 184,262

Keywords: paintjob, diy, how to, bad paint, gloss, refinish, accident, learn, autobody, collision, booth, repair, copart, harbor, freight, sata, iwata, toyotA, classic, bel air, restoration, rust, old, new

Id: OfPHjH7qFdQ

Length: 26min 25sec (1585 seconds)

Published: Wed Nov 15 2023