9x20 cross slide dial Part 1 - 250x550 Drehbank Skalenring f. Planschlitten Teil 1

hi welcome back to shop today we start on your project on the lathe my 9 by 20 leaf and I want to change something that's bugging me for a long time and it's the cross slide crank and the spindle and the bearing block for a very crank and also the the graduated ring so let's take a closer look and talk what what what boxin okay this is the cross light a crank and I really don't like this design very much first of all it's the I don't like the crank which I made so I can only blame myself for this I don't like the fact that it's a crank I prefer the ball handle stop like a man grading machine and we'll make one of these ball handles instead of this crank I don't like the internals of this there are two axial bearings red axial ball bearings and no radial bearing so while it can take a lot of thrust and pull push and pull wise it's really bad on radial stability and that results in a real crappy feeling when you crank this many crank the cross light feels like cheap it's really cheap I will machine this part here will be completely made new we will machine a new bearing block with two angular contact bearings and we'll make a new bigger graduated ring and a vernier on the other side can do early close reading and will machine a ball a ball handle too just to make it nicer and all of this is inspired by george h thomas which might be a name some of you might be familiar because of his books the workshop manual and the workshop techniques books these are some of the finest books ever written on model engineering and model or home shop tooling so if you don't know the books or don't have them run out and buy them best books and yeah this is what we're going to do and i already did some sketches so let's go to a bench and look okay this time i didn't did not only make hand sketches that that i made a proper handle part with the of the bearing block of course which will machine out of this piece of free cutting mat steel all of this will be machined out of steel just because i have it i will do a lot of turning work off-camera because you have to seen this a hundred times the more interesting parts i will show again okay i checked off a slug of free cutting mild steel and a machine the first side to diameter and faced it and you might notice the surface finish on here a lot of people shoot for the glossy high shine finish on the leaf and in my mind that's a two-sided sword a high-gloss finish doesn't mean precision in the same the same sentence if you do turning and milling high-gloss means normally that you using a tool that introduces a lot of pressure and ROPS and smears the surface shiny if you use a tool that's super sharp you get this gloss finish this is super smooth and this is really I would use this as a bearing seat from surface finish and I will not take any Emery cloth or something like that to it this is that's really a nice surface and I prefer this over a scratch glossy finish and I will take this piece out i chen furred it of course as you do we'll take it out and turn it around and we're going to use some breaths shim stock to protect our part first we closed down the check as far as we need it and we leave some wiggle room now we can insert our this is point one mil miss breath shim stock and I showed this a few times here on the channel I have a spool of this stuff in the shop exactly for the purpose of protecting surfaces you can see the 0.1 millimeter stuff is done enough so you can cut it just with regular household shears or snips whatever you want to call these scissors but thick enough to protect surfaces and also it's then enough and precise enough not to not to mess up your but still you can quite get a good bite on your part using the brass shim stock and I only need I need some surface here so I can indicate the part in let's clamp it and we can reef down on this pretty good and this is not going to run true but we are going to indicate and set it to run true okay imabelle test indicator here and you can see that we have about yeah point one millimeter on out and now I use my mounting bolts from Chuck and I have some real room in there and I take my plastic hammer and now can bump this this part to run true that little bit much oops and you tend to overshoot slightly when you okay this is within one hundredth of a millimeter the rest is a surface noise from the from surface yeah this is about 107 one or two hundredths yeah one and a half hundredths of a millimeter so this is now set up and we can proceed on we want to step very very near ring runs on to be 50 millimeters pretty exactly and we're going to measure this and we have fifty two point oh five millimeters so we have to 105 to go and just do it quick idiot check the calendar 52 because it's pretty easy to overshoot by one revolution on the drum after micro and we undercut theory edge light Lee by plunging in with the tool so when we machine the Rings it seeds nicely into the corner it doesn't ride on the edge don't like this I can just sure in fact this measurement isn't really critical because we will machine the rating part anyway yep we hit 50 point oh two millimeters this is an 18 millimeter annular cutter or Road approach and we're going to use this to punch starter holes through this piece of metal you there we go we went through one time and there is the slug yeah should you fish it a few supplies and don't touch it because it's hot there you go that's the slug and now we can bore out this hole just with a boring okay I turned the first bearing seed off-camera and its twenty eight point zero zero when measured or slightly - and I've been bearing here and it's it's a very close fit I could push it in and I don't get it out right now but I will have to unclamp this part right now anyway but you see what where we are right now and now we flip it around and we will machine the second bearing seat okay I flip the part around I have again brass trim stuck in between the jaws and port and the dial test indicator wait a second I will rearrange it so you can see dial that's about one hundredth of a millimeter run out and that's perfectly fine for what we're going to do i buttered it up against the face of the chuck so it doesn't wobble an axial direction and just to be sure the run-out on the face is also almost zero and now we can machine the second second bearing seat okay I have a twelve millimeter CC MPO 602 boring bar which Bishop boring bar in the tool holder and now we're going to machine this to a 28 millimeters 13.5 million st I have my depth stop on bed set to that depth and we can go okay I almost finished it we are at 27 point 73 so we have two poi point two seven to go and we will do that in one cut we'll take the cup and do a spring pass because boring is always a bit the tool tends to get pushed away and with the spring pass you take up the spring and on the last pop pulse of course we don't drag out the tea yeah that's why I don't like insert a tooling for clothes fits we are four hundredths of a millimeter shy of the final image now we have two possibilities we can go on with the boring bar possibly overshoot it get a board that's too big we can change to a high speed steel boring bar and shave off four hundredths of a millimeter also very very dangerous because you have to touch off we can take another spring pass possibly ruining the surface finish or sit in the corner and cry last option is the worst because nothing gets done changing to a high-speed tool bit yeah I could do that but we'll give the boring bar another shot we'll take a spring path and if it doesn't work out we can still can slightly adjust it this is a pretty sharp carbide insert so we might get away with it let's try a spring pass and we and we made some chips so this this is sort is really cutting well and this is really not how you turn a bearing fit this the sneaking up to the final dimension with a carbide insert it's really the worst practice you can do but yeah yeah we shaved out about one hundredth of a millimeter yeah we will take a 400 and we'll need a cup of this boring ball as might have burped yes and we have 28.0 but hard to see on camera but trust me this is on bond on size so we saved that one but really can mess up if this happens now we've chamfered yet sweet pine scraper and turning words on this piece is done right now we are machining the vernier ring which will slip over this smaller diameter this is 50 point oh two millimeters and we're going to bore this to 50 point oh four or five to give it some clearance it goes little play on it but it's freely to rotate and I'm using not the carbide inserted boring bar index index of bornego and using a solid steel boring bar with a small solid carbide cutting bit that I ground myself and this is a small lathe superior in cutting cutting performance I will take a two millimeter deep cut that's four millimeter in diameter and you will see that the chips that come off this tool are super nice I turned the internal diameter to fit the bearing block and now we're facing the ring of two final thickness and I'm doing this on a magnetic Chuck because I get it's very easy to machine parts very parallel on a magnetic Chuck because they are automatically parallel when you face them off so I measure B height from the from the rim to the magnetic check with the depth mic and we have 0.42 millimeters to go yeah that's that's right our 10.00 I think that's good enough now I'm going to take down the outer diameter to 60 millimeters almost all the way to the magnetic Chuck of course we can't go all the way because I don't want to machine into it but then we can flip the part around and chamfer the remaining material we're taking the final cut on the outer diameter down to 60 millimeters and yeah let's go and I went almost all the way to the magnetic Chuck but I have still a small step of material left and I will just show it to you okay let's take it off the truck I have broken this edge with a file there we go you can see this is very thin rim of material left but we'll recheck the piece like this on the magnetic Chuck and we'll just turn a small radius on this side and this will remove this yeah it's almost like a big bar so we'll go remove this okay this is the bearing block and this is the brownie ring we will set on here and this can spin freely it's it's a pretty close fit and it has some friction good and that's it really feels good and I like it and later in use there will be one locking screw some screw with a small neural thumb screw to lock it in place and on top will be the vernier scale and here will be the the dial be sitting which will also be adjustable and the dial I have to the drawing gear side view the next part we are going to machine this is going to be turned also out of free cutting mat steel we will knurl it and yeah it's not much to it it's pretty simple part okay right now we're machining D tile and we're cutting the 45 degree chamfer fake 45 degree chamfer here we can't do that with a 1 45 degree life tool because it will shatter because long engagement line for that reason I tilted the top slide to 45 degrees and we're cutting the taper okay we're going to neural the front portion of this ring and I already said on my scissor type rolling tool and I already slightly tightened it down to see if my if the left returning to the line straight we're not going to move side to side because the portion ruling is smaller than the knurling wheel okay excuse the freehand but you can see the portion we're going to know and here is the knurling tool and you can see that really delight imprint from the nulling tool is all across the surface and that means that our knowing tool is straight as a line to the workpiece so ready to know okay we're going for a slow rpm and we're using some soluble oil to lubricate everything this was a bit of Australia but I think we got it that's 60 millimetres is really the upper most limit this tool will do because at 60 millimetres it's really hard to get it over Center over the spindle Center and then it gets when you don't have it on a spindle center it gets pushed back and might even turn your tool post around if it's not dialed in position and some other problems but I'm very happy I'm very happy okay there's a Stang graving and I think it looks pretty good I need to chamfer the site and redo this radius because some material gets of course pushed over but apart from that I'm very happy what a bit of a starting to get it on there because of my learning tool but apart from that worked out fine a recording of the final the finished piece I'm almost all the way through and to prevent the part from dropping onto the machines bed or on the cross slide denting either the cross light or the part I will drill bit in the tailstock Chuck that I'm going to use to catch the part material left hope we don't crash it there we go pouring such heavy pieces on such a small latest son it's sketchy but it don't have to take it to the soul and that's the ring with a graduate later on the engraving machine okay finally I messed it up I overshot this bore by not one or two hundredths of a millimeter I overshot it by two millimeters it should be a ten millimeter bore i machined it to 1200 meters so I had a problem my solution to this is this drill bushing this is a hardened drill bushing it has ten millimeters internal and fifteen millimeter on the outside and this hardening ground I opened the bore up to 50 millimeter very close fit and I'm going to press this drill bushing into the or and then machine it flush with thee with the part so it's not a lost cause because in fact it's even better because we have by pressing the hardened drill bushing in we get a hook a nice ground and hardened bow okay I pressed the drill bushing in from this side you can see it and I've faced the end off the drop pushings are on the case hardened once you're through the outer case hardened layer they machine pretty good yeah that's the finished dial without the engraving engraving will exactly look like my sketch here and this is the the bearing block with the renewing and this will go together like this and this part will be spun and this ring here can be adjusted to set zero if you want to do minor adjustment without moving the actual dial okay and just to show you where it goes on we pull off the end and I really don't like the axle bearings for such a purpose and this is our bearing block or a new one we still have to drill the holes to mount it to this hop here that will go on like this with one bearing in front and back I'll contact parents and and front will set the micrometer drum II and here will be a crank ball handle and I think that looks pretty good it's nice big diameter very solid the heavy heavy dial will give it some inertia so it it cranks nicely the this crank and dial they are made out of aluminum and and they have yeah no weight to them and I like it when you when you turn a hand wheel and the test some you feel that there is some mass behind it and from this I expect this behavior exactly like a one at the end this is the bearing the slips on like this yeah that's where everything goes a little go on now we have to put it back together so I can machine the remaining parts back to nada yeah feels like crap still something was yeah I won't bother adjusting this anymore because this is almost ready to go so I hope you enjoyed it so far next part will be making the remaining parts and last part I think this will be a three parter we will do the actual graduate graduations and the engraving of course thank you for watching see you next time

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 46,413

Rating: 4.9467139 out of 5

Keywords: 9x20, lathe, cross slide, 250x550, drehbank, drehmaschine, HBM, optimum, planschlitten, skalenring, dial, engraving, gravieren, abstechen

Id: xH42L3WluPU

Length: 33min 10sec (1990 seconds)

Published: Tue Jan 05 2016