Shopmade UniMike - Part 2

so welcome back to a shop last time you saw me hardening these parts for the you know Mike and I had them beat blasted so did the black scaling from the oil it's gone and I also had them checked for hardness when you remember I was shooting for 55 Rockwell C and I had a checked on a proper walpert hardness tester Rockwell hardness tester and checked it in two spots and we came each time to 54 Rockwell C so we are pretty good and the son of hardness we wanted I also ordered a set of hardness testing files that Tom lipped showed in one of his videos and because I don't have place for a proper hardness C tester and I don't like these yarnís testers with the automatic spring punch when I blasted them I cleaned out the holes were an old reamer and already ground clamp for the which holds the exchangeable anvil and when I cleaned out this deep fat amid a reamed hole I realized that it hadn't changed size at all when I take a farmer math doll pin it's a nice sliding fit that's a bit looser than it was before because I ran some Emery cloth to screw it to clean out the grit but that's a pretty pretty pretty good fit pretty tight fit I like it and I grant the anvil off-camera because the clamp for Dan will off-camera because there is nothing not much to it just squaring it up and grinding the slot here and just for testing purposes I pressed in a five minute doll pin and when we get these two parts together it already fits quite nice and as you might remember although I didn't show this I also drilled two two millimeter holes here and I drilled and reamed two tumor in the holes in this part for additional dollop in so this part can not your rotate the pins will be pressed into this clamp and the pins will engage these two holes so there will be no rotation possible one would be enough but for some reason I can't remember why I did - so we're gonna four - and I still need to grind a V groove into this part so it can also hold a dollop in as a gauge pin to measure hole distance and stuff like that or wall thickness of pipes and you can also clamp in a normal 9 millimeter wide gauge block like this so now we're going to grind this part we will start top surface bottom surface those two surfaces are the important surfaces only those two in fact only this surface and the bore are really critical but I need this surface to do the other surfaces after that so we will start out we will we'll set it up on us on the magnet grind this side flip it around lock it in so it doesn't fly off the mag because the lower surface is pretty small grind the top surface and then before we her her her oh and then we will grind the thickness here when we have done that we were grind bore on the lathe so our drum can go in there somebody asked me how I'm going to fix the drum into this body I'm that's easy the plan was first to clamp it with chicken to half this part slit and have a clamping screw at an angle but I was worried that the slit part might warp like crazy when I hardness so I opted for Loctite six four eight bearing glue so we're going to align it and then we're going to glue it in if we ever have to exchange the strum or barrel we can heat it up 250 degree C without disturbing this part pull it out and set up a new one so that's good as a surface grinder it okay grind the first side and as you can see I'll retouch stuff on the part I know a lot of people don't like this practice but for me until I'm more experienced on a surface grinder this is a very safe way to touch off okay I took off three hundredths of a millimeter just to clean up the bottom surface and leave a good nice finish I was also feeding on the finishing cut very slow so get a nice finish and I got a new toy this is a readout for the digital indicator that I have on my damn feet of the surface grinder and this is made by Daniel salvos and he sent it to me to test it and so far I like it very much I will do a I will do a proper segment on this readout when I tested it a bit more okay I flipped the part around set freshly ground surface up in a magnet and I block the top and I block the part in and as you can see the holding power and the small surface and with such a tall Park is not very high so they're going to add some some clam penis to make it a bit more rigid and we're just going to use one of these parallel clamps and lock it to the side of this block just so we have a bit more grip we're not going to take a deep cut anyway okay I kept apart laying down flat in the vice and I aligned it with an indicator so it's flat in that director - or parallel to this to the base okay you saw me first taking very heavy cuts of five hundredths of a millimeter depth and then I took a finished cut at one hundred seven millimeter if I had magnetic parallels I just get up the second side now on the magnet but as I don't have magnetic parallel or magnetic transfer blocks I have to set up the second side also in the magnet I had it on surface plate I had a stack of gauge blocks in here and I set up every nice and square and now I can grind the second side okay you okay right now I'm grinding the ID for the micrometer barrel so he can slip in and screw it in place with some Loctite I've set up the part on the magnetic Chuck with two blocks to give it some support and over here I have my diamond dresser so I don't have to set up the diamond dresser every time I could just bring over my running spindle like this and dress the grinding stone with the spindle of the lathe stopped of course having the tool post grinder run and I will tell you something about ID grinding 0.6 millimeters of grinding allowances it's way too much it really gets old next time I will go with points to me either yeah point 1/2 or 0.15 would be absolutely enough to clean up this hole and bring it to size I wish I had higher rpms this cause normally you would grind something like this at about 30 to 40 thousand rpms and I have maybe 10 so this is absolutely not ideal but move but we get pretty good finish anyway and I hope that it gets cylindrical tooth the stoners are fine I wish I had a rougher stone a 36 or 48 grit that doesn't load up that fast this one is about 80 grit and it loads up super fast without some cutting oil it doesn't work at all with the cutting oil it's working pretty good maybe I will get get it done one day let's check our diameter I'm still in the range of measuring with calipers it's not with the ID mic okay we are nine point nine point eight millimeters that leads 10 so we have points two millimeters to go that's about half an hour of grinding let's dress the grinding stone okay I'm giving us a pretty rough drat dressing so cuts a bit more freely now we go over to our war send it the right spot add some color start up the spindle of the leaf and and we grind okay after some fiddling I got it done I had to do I had to change the stone for a mounted cubic boron nitride grinding grinding tool ID grinding - and these cut more freely and they you don't need to dress them of course because it's cubic board not red grid that has been bound to the metal carrier on metal base and they leave a bit a bit rougher surface finish but as said they don't need dressing and they cut more freely and they don't glaze up that easy or take our Mike barrel huh you can see that this is a pretty tight close fit and that's what we wanted now we can tear down the setup from the lathe clean the lathe because it's a mess of grinding dust okay we're back at the grinder and I want to clean up that radius I have my grimy wise on this magnet and I have a piece of an 10 millimeter checked rope in which is hardened clamped and Weiss everything is aligned and I will slip part with the ground pour over the ejector pin which is a very close fit like this and then we can swing the part like this and grind then we can grind along the axis okay I touch stuff on the surface I will dial in point one five millimeters as you can see we have on machine areas left here and the aisle blew up the the surface so I can see the progress we're making I will dial in another point one five millimeters and we're good to do good to go okay like wrong to complete radius as you can see camera quite good there's just a cosmetic radius okay as you can see from the grinding we have a lot of small facets and right now we're blending them into each other by stoning so it's a nice uniform radius I'm using a small triangular or a flat stone soaked in some wd-40 so it's cutting more free and just working along and I do it just like I would dry a file a radius I'm following the radius like this and as you can see the blend from the radius into the flat portion here which will grind later is not straight and that's because the part warped slightly during hardening that looks quite okay for a for a cosmetic radius I will hit it with some 400 grit camera cloth and I also soak in some wd-40 and with you know that I rolled the stone off the surface when I fought and worked the radius that's how you create a true radius by fun and now with the Emery cloth or I just need a surface I follow the surface like this okay looks perfectly fine to me I like it so now we grant these two outer surfaces and we will grind that those slightly behind your radius so we don't get a perfect blend but the radius runs out over the surface okay Rove at the bench and as you can see I finished all the grinding on the body of the you know mic and also finish the clamp which holds the exchangeable anvil in place I need to reduce the diameter of the pins by maybe 1/10 of a millimeter or something like that so everything will slip together nicely nice and easy and I need to make the draw or that pulls the clamp against the body but already we can see we can take a gauge block clamp it with the clamp and we have our micrometer barrel and slips in here and now it looks very much like a yuna might by the proportion that works very well I can hold it with one hand and do measurements like this and yeah I'm very don't know al to say I'm very happy how this came out to radius from frontier looks it's very nice I'm happy that the heat treating it worked out that well and that the grinding also worked that well die idee grinding at the end surface grinding I still have a few issues of surface finish but okay I made the parts of camera that go with the clamp I made the drawbar and the as knurled not and I already locked tied it in the drawbar into the clamp and I reduced the two guiding pins to about 1.9 millimeter diameter and now its lips together very nicely has some side plate but that doesn't matter don't mean anything and I milled a small V into the jaw a hard milled of e into it so the reason for the notch is of course it can use a pin as a as an exchangeable handle then you have measure hole distance to an edge or you want to measure wall thickness of tubing or stuff like that and the brass knob goes on this side I did some engraving I used two point eight millimeter ball end mil and took a point one millimeter deep and graving used some black sharpie and then I wiped off the remaining black with some writing paper the paper acts like a very mild abrasive and cleans off the excess paint some people use a rag that soaked in solvent but that most of the time doesn't work very good because you wash out the pain from being raving too so I use a dry nope no solvent no no no nothing a piece of paper and just rub off the excess color and now we need last step is to mount the micrometer barrel into the body here then we're done and for that purpose who will take first we will take it apart again and we cleaned the bottom surface on a piece of paper and we take a gauge block that we also clean on a piece of paper and those are the used gauge blocks I don't mind stoning it I use one of these super fine Ruby stones so I won't change the dimension at all now as the surface is clean we can use this as a referent and we will use it as a reference by design so we'll clamp the gauge block in here lock it in place just very lightly snug up the knob now we will take our micrometer barrel screw it down to zero make sure that the face of the the carbide face here is clean - then we will put it together with some Loctite without the gap here and with this set to zero and then we have our and then it's calibrated or rough calibrated the fine calibration can be of course done we are small spanner and rotating the drum but the general setup comes now when we lock the drum in place so let's take it out let's take some acetone clean the micrometer and I really have a problem pronouncing for micrometer micro micrometer remember we'll also cleaned boar from the inside so the Loctite has a fighting chance okay we get our Loctite and of course me must make sure so of course he must make sure that we don't glue our drum here shut order the measuring spindle that would be a bummer what I'm going to do is I'm going to put some Loctite on to this diameter here then I'm going to push it into the body of the micrometer this will be a special one we don't need much luck tight just small don't do you okay unfortunately this drum has no lock so we have to be very very careful clean the face was clean too and shove it in there we go now we wait until the Loctite has set and then we're good to go okay I will just rest it here on the workbench and you can watch Loctite curing I'll be back okay the lock tide has set and now I have a fully functional you know Mike shop mate and as you can see I already calibrated the barrel to syrup and what I want to check now is if the spindle here is truly perpendicular to the end will and you can check that with a ball bearing ball he just measure the thickness or the diameter of the ball in different locations and the micrometer needs to show the same measurement in every position I can show it to you with my good digital mic there's our six point three five millimeter ball six point three five six point three five one three five six point three five and that way you can check the face off the micrometer and to clean the animals you can take again a piece of paper and wipe the faces off the measuring surfaces because I had the feeling that there is some gunk in it when I checked it six point three five to six point three five six point three five six point three five six point three five one yeah of course you have also to take into consideration that you exert pressure on the ball in only one spot in a very small area and that will also deform the ball all that stuff comes into consideration when you check stuff with that close tolerances but this is only reading one hundredths of ammonia so we will be perfectly fine with this check and we start here at three five go over we read 3-5 dad not song three five three five slightly under so that's pretty good now I have a ten millimeter gauge block here that when we check it with any tutorial a digital one should be pretty much ten millimeters might be time to check our Siro on this mic haha - to zero oh no George that's it okay let's check the gauge block again what were only three 2007 and off but that's okay nine point nine nine nine nine and over here we have ten damn outs on and really measuring to one thousandth of a millimeter is tricky you get in the area where every sink ounce when I hope this is Mike for a long time in the hands it will grow slightly and then it will and get a bus reading but now we check our shop mate Mike I have 10 over here and we have 10 down here so looking quite good I'm very happy let's take out this anvil or this Sun escape block and take a five millimeter doll pin okay that's perfectly fine we get with the doll and also a zero okay and in case you wonder what's the what the Mike is used for you can measure for example the distance of a snap ring groove to the end of a workpiece like this and by using different thicknesses off of gauge block as an animal you can reach in into very thin roofs another tool that you can use for that purpose of course is of course the disc mic but the distance mic can only go in about four millimeters deep and with this mic I can go in about 16 millimeters reach in and of course another useless with gauge pin or developing in my case to measure the distance of a hole to the edge of a workpiece like this of course you would use a matching gauge pin to the hole then you can measure the distance minus the radius of the hole with the pin you can also measure the wall thickness of pipes very accurately like this and this has a wall thickness of 1.0 2 millimeters and some dirt and head so yeah and that way you can just grab it bent the unit mic is quite a handy tool but and you can get them off used on eBay but in Germany they are quite uncommon so I made my own hope there was something interesting for here in this video for all of you and oh by the way I reached 10,000 subscribers quite some time ago and I want to say thank you to all of you again because I don't take it for granted that you take your time spend your time and watch my videos of some guy in the shop fiddling around with stuff and I get so many great comments very very nice comments and also emails thank you all for watching and subscribing and commenting it's just great so see you next time you

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 45,356

Rating: 4.9781661 out of 5

Keywords: uni-mike, mikrometer, messschraube, micrometer, surface grinder, surfacegrinder, lip 515, mitutoyo, flachschleifen

Id: e_5mPgApkPU

Length: 36min 24sec (2184 seconds)

Published: Wed Aug 10 2016