Shopmade UniMike - Part 1

[Music] Hey welcome back to a shop today I wanted to start a small tool making project for the longest time I wanted a meters who you you knew Mike but there are quite rare injuries it seems that nobody really has them or you system so I decided to build my own from a friend I got a zero to twenty five-millimeter me tutorial micrometer barrel and this is in pretty good shape its carbide faced so that's good and that's what we're going to use I have a piece of 120 80 tool steel that's some gnarly gnarly tool steel this stuff has 2 percent carbon and 12 percent chrome in it and evil stuff and machines quite nice but it's hard on the tools and this is my sketch it's it's a rip up rip off off the unit Mike design from me to Toyo the barrel will go in here this is the body it's t-shaped and the lower lower side of the body is machine and ground flat and square to the barrel I already have an idea how we will get the surface perfectly square to the barrel after hardening the body I want this to be hard because this is a macaroon surface because you can also use it as a step Mike so I wanted to be hardened at ground and you have a drawbar here and something like a strep clamp and you can hold different fixed angles down here and like like a gauge block or a gauge pin we will also grind a shallow V groove in the fixed jaw so you can hold a thin gauge pin to measure distance from of a hole against the edge of workpiece that's what we're going to build yeah let's get to her Oh before I forget it these are the these are the design iterations I had where I fiddled around with design up hearest clamping mechanism and a few months ago I already did there's a sketch something like this and looked about this but back then I plan to use a smaller okay we start out to pre-drill or drill out the radius of the C shape the rear radius I'm using a 20 millimeter rod approach for this and I'm already a direct decision I never used a rotor broaching tool steel let's see how this behaves there we go Network surprisingly well this material is it's quite brittle [Music] [Music] okay okay we just roughed out the the opening of the see after C shape with a six millimeter roughing end mill edge which is hot at 1000 rpm dry and with a depth of cut of about nine millimeters and as you can see your chips got all kinds of funny colors now we change to a 8 millimeter for flute car by them this is an HPC roughing end mill with with non-serrated flutes and I like to use them as a finishing anvil because they leave quite a good finish and they are not as expensive as proper six field finishing and no and they can take quite a beating I need to shorten one of the legs of the sea [Music] yeah and that's the reason why I used a used end mill and now the brand new once the cup went perfectly fine until the end when all the tension and the part came back and snapped the end mill so yeah this happens too fortunately it snapped above the collar when the nth metal snaps in the collet it's tends to chowder up the collet and that's always been bad don't want that [Applause] okay starts to look like a you know my let's look like a Jenny Mike sorta okay I'm setting up to drill the hole for the micrometer drum and drawbar back here we'll drilled the hole for the drum undersized and we will grind the ID on the length of the to post grinder after hardening because this needs to be square to the bottom surface and I cannot insure that this is still straight when we harden it it will warp in this area pretty pretty sure so I'm going to pick up this edge and Center on the thickness after I clamped clamped it down I have a screw Jack over here so the part doesn't tip down when I put pressure from the drill onto the workpiece mill I'm lightly going to tension the screw jack so we don't get problems there now we change to edge finder and pick up our datums okay I touched off on the first side i seared it then i touched off on the second side and this is our Y dimension and we want to to divide this by 2 so Y access 1/2 and now we crank the axis to 0 and we're centered over the part ok and last thing is to pick up the this right face after [Music] [Applause] I drilled it only two nine millimeters because I will run a boring bar surrett and open it up to nine point five millimeters because I want the nice straight and true bore that I can indicate later on the router table to do the round over here and also to have a good datum surface to indicate it on the lathe after hardening for the ID grinding of this borer I'm not going to bother for just creating a straight and true hole with the boring head I'm just using one of my boring bars from the lathe this should produce about a nine point four millimeter hole and this is nice I can chuck it up in the collet Chuck run it very fast we're going to spin it at 1000 rpm and just go through once okay it should be trimmed up enough we can move it down and check our diameter yeah yes as I said about nine point four millimeters you can preset such a boring bar pretty precise on the surface plate with dial indicator but that will not need it for this purpose because we will grind that bore okay I put the rotary table onto the machine and I have the body of the mic clamped down with two strap clamps back here and after central bore where the drum will go in over the center of the rotary table that my doll test indicator up here and I indicate that the bore that we drilled on board before so as you can see I'm at about 200 of a millimeter run out maybe slightly okay that's pretty much the run out now we will carefully tighten these down so we don't move the park and again these are only six millimeter or m6 clamping screws and these are length plenty strong enough but I'm not strong enough to hold up this giant wrench this a bonsai strange nah oops no I just rotated table no we can check okay we moved it very lightly but we're still within plus one minus one within two hundredths of a millimeter that's perfectly fine because this is just a cosmetic radius that we're going to mill on there okay let's tighten these down family okay take off our indicator [Music] [Music] okay you just saw me rounding over the end of the the of the body an eight-millimeter carp I don't know I took the cut that full height so we use the full height of the cutter and don't wear out the end and I added something to the setup because I was not sure if it will hold up to the cutting forces I have a bolt through the center of the in after micrometer body and let's let's stir it apart it's easier to show how to tell looks okay we have further we have a stop going up to the center but down in the rotary table there is only the more steeper two socket so I had to get a six millimeter threat somehow under the center of the part and that's let's move away from the cutter I have a block with a threaded hole four six millimeter sweat in there I had that under the center bore of the part and that's where I had the stud screwed into and the block was clamped down on the outside here with restrict land and I had some packing and some packing in here to take up the clamping force into the rotary table otherwise if I hadn't done this with the central stud the part would have moved pretty sure because alabbar to the backside here is pretty long having forces would have tilted apart and this is how it looks now nice radius looks okay to me at first chance this is just for the eye nothing of function okay next step is to relief both sides of the body we are taking off three point five millimeters per side so it's it looks a bit more streamlined using a 40 millimeter shell end mill at hundred yes okay okay I have to parked and oven for hardening and the steel I'm using is the oil hardness so I'm using vegetable oil for quenching the other itself doesn't matter it's only oil has a slower heat transferred and water and that's and there are stills that need water to harden cause they need a fast temperature change then there are skills that are all hardness that need a lower speed and then there are air hardening Steel's they just cool down on air and get hard so I set this is oil hard problem before hardness is of course the mast and the smoke your produce with quenching when I do the hawk when I drop the part into the oil I will take this aluminum piece of front stock put it on top and keep the fumes down a bit and then from the old multimeter with a temperature probe set up in the oven at 623 C and the steel has the hardening temperature off 950 about about something like that and there's often it's rated for 950 so it sort of it it's a bit hard to reach up to that high temperatures normally the fields I use have a hardening temperature of about 750 years or 800 but I'm using this steel because I have it with a fire break in front of the door I can keep the heat in the oven a bit better and it will reach the 950 at least if we wait long enough okay let's do this the long sleeve operation of course hot oil blowing metal you know I dropped the piece up right so it doesn't warp very much to the sides and I will just leave it in and the oil until it cools down so we can touch it again and we will use remaining heat in the oven to temper it to draw the heat back slightly the hardness back a bit because right now this is glass hard this is how i hardened my parallels too but the parallels I keep hard I'm going to peel them in anyway okay now as we harden the part I looked up the temperature for annealing it to about 55 Rockwell C and that temperature that's temperature is about 444 50 something like that after after diagram here in the phone it's four hundred something 55 Rockwell's and quenching in oil I will keep it about 30 minutes to 1 hour at this temperature and then quench it in oil again and then we should have it at a good working hardness unfortunately often doesn't have a controller so I'm manually to hold it around this temperature but I already ordered a temperature controller because this really bugs me you can't do a proper heat treating without a controlled heat treating with the setup necessary makeshift right now okay in the meanwhile while the oven was hardening up was rising up to temperature and machined the clamp part which is still hot from hardening this part has a slot in it were normal nine millimeter wide gauge blocks can engage like this so they cannot rotate out to the side and this clamp goes on down here and will hold the gate block in place up here we will have the mic barrel and back here we will have a draw board that pulls the clamp up against the body of the mic and both parts got nice and hard next that will drop my file glass beat them to get off the scale before I do my grinding I can't I cannot gasp into my own shop but I know somebody where I can do it and after glass feeding but will grind these parts but grinding will be something for the next episode so thank you all for watching top this is impressing for you and thank you all for watching see you next time [Music]

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 43,788

Rating: 4.9841795 out of 5

Keywords: unimike, toolmaking, werkzeugbau, universal, mikrometer, rundtisch, rotary table, roughing, toolsteel, werkzeugstahl, mitutoyo

Id: -LCKpSaTPbI

Length: 24min 53sec (1493 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 24 2016