Screened Porch | Week 4

[Music] so this week we got all the posts for the walls install the lattices installed and we've done all the framing for the roof work all the rafters I got the sub fascia on and even up here on the roof surface I've got it papered in for right now let's just give you a recap of this past week's work so this week started out with me installing the lattice I was just trying to get a gauge line here so I was measuring down from the deck surface [Music] I use stainless staples and just a crown stapler women pretty well [Music] I have my friend coming over to help me because when I had to move the framing for the landing and the stair set and everything some of the deck boards I had to replace with the new black boards because of the width change so he came back over just to touch up where we had already washed most of the decking so you could see him spraying on back cleanser on the deck there and just kind of waiting [Music] [Music] so now I'm starting to cut the posts I just set the two corner posts just so we could get the beam installed while I had the second set of hands so here we are with just setting the first post I just basically screwed it right to the two by six ducting at least underneath because there's a rim beam that's it's all totally stacking so I just bummed it and set some braces on there just to keep it in position there we set in the other corner [Music] [Music] I have previously leveled across on the deck surface so I have an idea of any irregularities with the post height at least that way I could maintain a level easily okay here we go I just used this 2 by 10 because the spans between them once I put the other post in you'll see that shortly the spans will be so short this 2 by 10 is more than adequate it was quite bowed and you can almost kind of tell just by looking at it right there that it's quite bowed but once we put the other 2 by 10 on it was there I was just checking it for a level and it was pretty decent I just took that brace off that way it would be a little bit easier for us carrying it up so once we got that second one installed at once I screwed it all together that kind of straighten it out a little but it still had a subtle bow to it you'll see later I had to put a brace to straighten it out it here I just sped this up it's just screwing these you know on 16 I just put three screws sometimes I just find that it's easier just to screw even though it's kind of a pain rather than pull the nail gun nail and it's a nicer finish because everything is shell on this so just laying out the spacings of the posts here taking into account the door opening those using my board calculator there all right this is a little taller I thought I had a four foot level on me so I could just tie the levels together to do this but I just ended up using a board I found a pretty straight board to get some marks so I could get some measurements for height I had to dig through the pile a little bit to get to where the posts are then I was just trying to check to get ones that look visually decent and weren't too bowed they were all pretty decent so I didn't make a true three and a half inch thick beam so that the post is actually inset on the inside of the deck and just flush on the outside you know without any plywood to go between it like a interior style beam it's just not the same thickness but I just flushed it to the outside I had to do some minor shimming there where one bore was slightly thicker than the other but I tried to make it as good as I could so that would be fully paring just starting to lay out this side here but those blocks in so it'll catch the beam sometimes that's the hardest part doing those long measurings when you're just one guy I put a mark on that board so I could have a gauge roughly just to tack it to something then I could get it attached or it's kind of wobbly but it worked out then the only wood there I just kind of attached it to that little bit of fascia that's under the soffit you know just to have something to stabilize it till I got this post and once I get that and everything's fine just getting all the marks and just basically repeat the same process as the front I tried to make the openings reasonably small not too small okay here I'm using a hanger bracket not the interrupts what I was saying there but I wanted to I needed to have some kind of attachment to the surface of a house I put that in and issues those Tico's on the board itself but put anchors in that way you wouldn't really see the bracket but the bracket is on there there once I put the other board on cuz I'll make up beam as it goes back you see I put a taper there and slowed that down so you can kind of see the taper so you wouldn't see the bracket I wanted to try to make it so you didn't visually see them but they're underneath so anyway as I was saying I tried to make the opening spans because of the screening in the future I tried to make them reasonably small but not too small ended up being maybe around 40 inches or something like that I think they were four it might might have been in the 30s I can't quite remember but they were kind of smaller it could have maybe been a little bit bigger I mean this beam has no bearing load on it whatsoever just the incidental framing that it holds but I think it turned out pretty nice all in all I didn't want spans too big because the screen might get loose or in I don't know I just like to keep the spans reasonably sized that I couldn't get them to work out to be less than three feet I do know that because I had to get four foot screens there I'm just cutting the notch it's basically just deja vu all over again here same process as the other side tacking it to the little bit of fascia and tacking it to the beam and just cut the posts and set out set the layout of the pose and screw it all together yeah it was quite out of level there but you can see how checking it there everything worked out well [Music] [Music] I was trying to crown all the posts to the outside at least just to make them all the same I mean I guess in reality you could really do whatever you want but I think it's more ideal if they had least are all going the same direction so why not just put them facing out just like framing a regular wall okay this was kind of a pain right here you might be able to notice these bees flying around and I was hammered rolling right into that mortar line and these bees were not happy about it so it was I actually had to cut quite a bit of video where I'm kind of running around and swatting at bees and then of course this anchor did not want hold so I had to pull it and I was like struggling and finally had to get a solve on just cut it loose there it is just finally cut the thing loose just to get it out of there you see the bee flying around there swatting that be there but they worked out okay I finally just put a plug in there you can see a little piece of wood dowel plugged into the mortar joint [Music] but this big corner bracket on it again once I put the second board on to complete the beam you won't even really see any of that bracket tree [Music] [Music] so as I was saying earlier at least using the screws because all this will be visually you know you'll be able to see all of this at least it gives a little bit nicer of a finishing in my opinion it and you can kind of control it better than a nail okay here we go this is nice starting to layout the rafters so I was trying to get an idea of I always like to know what the thickness is okay right now this has just switched over now the beam it just were such huge thickness differences so I had to get out that power planer there and knock that down at least so as much more reasonable it was like a quarter of an inch so but anyway I'm gonna start laying out the rafters here so they always love it with me when I show myself grooming so I was trying to include that so what I did was I laid out a mark so I could gauge the roof pitch and I set a board on that I put up mark on the beam another thought oh you're gonna see that I gotta sand that off so I took my time and mounted that board there on the side so I could measure off the roof pitch that I wanted and I know what it should be from the outside so I set up that and then I strung that line and I quickly realized that there's no way I could do a 312 so then I have to scramble little and decided I had to do a two flow because if I made a 312 it would never even contact the roof okay so here I was just trying to use the gauge to get an idea of where my top ledge board would be so the rafters would hit into that ledge board and then I was trying to take a measurement of what the rafter length would be and then just confirming that with the other side and it was slightly off so I just played around with it for a little bit and eventually just made the call to go with a certain size him so the in the foreground that side of the rafter of the roof was slightly off compared to the other side okay here's the 2 by 12 oh it was a 20-footer I just took it up uncut which was a problem because it ran into that roof boot there with that pipe is so I was trying to figure out exactly where I needed to cut it and once I got that set I went and just used screws to try to tack it down to the rafters underneath I'm pretty sure they have 3/4 decking so at least you know your own is going to hit something but whether or not it's actually attached to a bearing point is one thing so you can almost see where the roof droops is it ideal now it's not perfect but you see how long the taper is because the roof is so shallow and then the other roof that I'm building is so shallow as well it's only 212 so then I had a test cut here where I sat it in place just to kind of check it out make sure everything looks right you can see that because it's so shallow I'm gonna have to put a secondary bearing point lower on the existing roof and once I laid it up there I could see that the angle was slightly off but even just slightly off means a huge difference because it's such a long paper so I have my pile of two by eights here they're 20 footers and then I just kind of played out the difference and remarked it on the next cut so I'll shim that first cut but going forward all these should be much better so I just went into production mode and oh here I'm just testing this second cut and checking it side to side well then I slowed it down here where success checking it in the middle and the sides everything looked good so now I know I can duplicate it so I just start going through the pile some of these were really poor boards but can make it work cutting it with the circular saw and then cutting the other end with the battery saw then finish it up with the jig saw where the notch is I like to leave the rafters long and then come back and trim the actual soffit portion that way you know you're getting a pretty decent soffit that may be overkill but ok here's where I'm trying to straighten out the beam because the beam is so bowed I tried to put this board in and this is realities of working so low just constantly falling but there's trying that you can see the beam push out there so I was trying to do that I had a string line on it and I would just age the string line so now I'm just putting a layout on it these are all two by eights on 16 so it spans a little bit far but it's it's some doable on the edge if it have been any further I would have to go to tens or or maybe go to 12 inch centers so even still I still just screwed everything together [Music] he's all went in pretty painlessly I think the number one key is once you can trust your beam or wherever your bearing point is your wall or if you're building a house then you know just tuck your knotch your bird mount they're up against it and as long as you know your paint they're even if you maybe have to make some subtle variations you can almost push down on the rafter at the top and you go to attach it if you do have some variability this worked out pretty well [Music] after I got all these installed they're just setting another board of course then what I had to do was to make sure I could trust because of the bow in that first board that I used so I locked the top because I know I've string lined that and then I set up another string line so I could trust the part of the rafter where the board would go underneath and maybe I needed to go in or out subtly so I just wanted to confirm that before I attached it to the roof deck and then I just spaced it based on the original band board of the 12 that I originally laid now most of these are pretty close you can see very few I think maybe two of them I had to shim where it attached to that lower that two-by-four and of course the original one that was cut way too high I had to shim now you can see like that board towards the middle eres just so bowed the plywood I'll straighten that out [Music] just trying to make a layout I'm gonna enter bored gonna really get the tape in there I believe this is the one where I had to shim yeah you can see such a huge gap to that second board if it the tape right underneath of it so I'm pretty sure I went back and shim that out [Music] I had to shim that up on a little bit up there just to clear to the rim board ring port to the alleged board on the house [Music] [Music] my biggest concern as always once you start and you kind of make those holes in the roof you know I don't want to you're you're at a go-for-broke point where you want to try to as quickly as possible to prevent water coming in trying to get the roof done at least to get it to the point where you have paper and you can get it to where it's you know 99% water tolerant so here the next day I'm starting as I said I like to cut of course you can see I'm sure people that are framers can understand that it almost feels like when you're cutting above your head like that no matter which way you move the dust is coming right in your face but I've marked a string line from the top so I could at least get a straight gauge and then just use the level to plumb plumb down so I could get the marks and then finished it with that little cordless saw here I'm just starting to do this up fascia I just in my lumber package totally spaced out and did not have all the 2x6 that I needed so I just finally broke down and said I'm just gonna use the two-by-four and later I'll come back and put a rip underneath just to finish the cut just so I could get it installed cuz I just wanted to get the plywood on I've seen some people in the past where I see them framing and I never see them checking they're checking their actual pump you can see us using a square there just to check to make sure it's plumb and then some fascia holds it Square to your beam and I always ask people I see them do that but I never see them actually maybe they just don't show it on film but I'm always curious how do you that board was so bowed I had to actually put a board on it so we could bow it then I actually had to put that block attach it to the South Asia so it would still maintain it square so that was kind of a bear but it worked out now we're just putting this final piece of salvation on and then at that point we're ready to start put the plywood on just kind of mark in the layout here these were all pretty good I remember checking these and almost every single one of these you know not to square it we checked it before we put that cell fascia on so make such a big deal about squaring and then they don't see me square it so we did check it beforehand so I just marked that gauge line so I'm ready together now finally I have the framing gun out I like to fact the plywood down on the first joist first rafter and then go down and square up to the bottom that way it pushes the earth rafter out and you know it's good then you just kind of Mark it layout up I'm snap in line so I make sure I don't blow through especially where there will be no sealing so you got no margin for error okay now here's another thing I want to say is between the plywood I usually put a roofing nail that way I get I maintain my eighth inch spacing I know you always get eighth inch spacing because use a Clips between the sheets of plywood as you're sliding them in there you get the gapping for the expansion contraction but I see again I see other people where they don't do any spacing on their sides and the stamping one it says you need Ethan chat all sides and I'd be the first to say in the past have I not done that with LSB like on a wall of course but I've started to do that spacing on everything so I I just use a roofing nail and then that gives me a pretty decent eighth inch gap this one I'm pretty painlessly I did end up needing to put a small little rip of plywood at that top almost right on that lip on the 2 by 12 going to the roof deck except there I am putting those little rips in there just to kind of maintain then I just came back and trim the whole edge I cut the pieces long and then just trimmed it with that little battery saw the thing is so convenient then course everyone loves to see me ruining it off so she wanted to get it clean before I put the paper down now I've kind of become a believer in this composite paper I mean there's nothing wrong with tar paper but I've switched over mostly be using this composite it's a little more tedious because you can't just use a slap stapler you know so you got to put the buttons on it like the type are and so I mean unless you have one of those slap staplers where it has the little buttons that come out and it's self feeding those would be convenient but I just decided to go through the button cap it it wasn't too inconvenient so this particular paper says that it wants a staggered double layer because it's only 212 it says from 212 to 412 I believe it was it wants a staggered double layer for 12 up you can just do a single layer so I was only concerned to get one single layer there you could see me Prime the shingle just so I can get it tucked under just in case of rain then they do pour this weekend after I put this paper on so slide okay so thank you for watching if you like the video please give me a thumbs up and subscribe to my channel and I'll see you in the next clip thank you again

Channel: Horst Carpentry

Views: 771,436

Rating: 4.8073397 out of 5

Keywords: how to build a screened porch, how to build a deck, how to install lattice, how to build a roof, how to frame a roof, framing a roof, building a roof, installing a beam for a roof, how to cut rafters for a roof, how to cut a rafter, how to install plywood on a roof, how to install roof felt, rafter, beam, plywood, how to install sub fascia, sub fascia

Id: qlYDujQY2Gk

Length: 25min 47sec (1547 seconds)

Published: Mon May 27 2019