Machine your own Low Profile Slitting Saw Arbor

okay well it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out what today's topic is going to be about i have a job where i need to create a slitting saw arbor for a very specific application now as you can see these saws they come in a variety of different shapes different grinds different profiles staggered tooth straight small one inch keyed half inch diameter not keyed and probably not keyed because if this saw were to grab it's just going to explode because there's basically nothing there it is very thin although they look flat these are actually hollow ground which means they are dished or taper ground not by much but enough to keep the saw from rubbing as it progresses into the part and we have an arbor here in the back i'm going to make a combination of this particular arbor and this little guy back here these are two different styles this one is telescopic as you can see very low profile which is good because a lot of these have a big ugly nut on the outside and sometimes that is a problem so a low profile arbor like this in my opinion is preferred for my applications it's preferred you make your own choice this is very much like a draw bar well it's exactly what it is it's a draw bar in the back as you tighten this up this draws in and cinches up on the blade this particular style is also a very homemade item [Applause] holds onto the blade a little cap with a counter bore locates on the remaining projection from the arbor keeps it centered and a flathead screw draws it down well i need that style back there in this size so let's grab a piece of material off the shelf and make that happen it's going to be a half inch locating feature it's not going to be a boss at least not on here we're going to reverse it we're going to make the boss on the cap so the saw will install onto the cap the cap will then install into the arbor i'm not sure if i'm going to draw it down from behind or from the front using a flathead screw you are going to compromise the size of the allen key that you are allowed to use flat head screws are historically smaller than a cap screw so if you're looking to get any kind of torque out of your arbor make sure you think about that first and since this is a half inch through hole i could probably use a number 10 or a quarter inch and just recess it into the cap and have an extremely low profile bite to get the job done you can also come in from the back if you want okay let's grab a piece of three-quarter inch stainless off the shelf because that's what i have and let's make an arbor [Music] [Applause] we are starting with a piece of three-quarter inch diameter i believe this is 316 stainless about four and a half inches long i'm gonna do the cap first actual start time 20 minutes to 11. starting with the cap the initial diameter that you turn should match the id of the saw that you are going to use very closely any difference in the od versus the id or the od of the cap to the saw is going to lead to an eccentricity and you're going to get that chewing sound when the saw engages the material although anybody that ever uses a slitting saw if something is running smooth you got to believe something's wrong so let's turn this down to 5 8 by about 5 8 or 3 4 long pop a 257 diameter hole through the center of it and part it off the ideal way to start any pieces with a nice clean face gives us a registration surface a little scuff on the outside to set the tool i know basically i'm going to be taking about a millimeter and a half off each side of this so once i register the tool i can just roughly dial in and away we go i am looking for 15.875 millimeters on this diameter that's a 625 american imperial conversion stainless steel does get hot so be very cautious of the temperature of the part this material will heat up and swell up and if you check it while it's hot you're going to be very disappointed once it cools back down a very fine pass for the finish cut and away we go fits the saw just perfectly now you need to realize and pay attention to the radius on the tool that you've selected for your first operation and go in there with a second tool and knock that radius out the transition between the small diameter and the large diameter right there in the corner right there that radius has to go i am looking straight down on top of the tool right now with a jeweler's loop setting the tool if there's any undercut to be made make sure it's on the face of the transition between the two diameters and not the smaller diameter if you use an exceptionally thin saw the saw could register inside that undercut and cause an eccentricity at the machining operation although it doesn't look like i'm moving i am moving very slowly and that's all done under magnification and you can see the radius going away a little bump on the backside of the burning tool for a nice lead because this will be a sliding component 400 emery just to take the tool feel off there's really this isn't really doing much of anything but it is taking off the high spots and of course it's got to be pretty moving onto the center drill 316 stainless is something that's just a pain in the neck to drill lubrication is a really good idea and once the chip starts flowing keep the cut going that's one of my rules of thumb if you sit on 316 or 304 for too long it is going to work harden on you so if you got a nice chip pouring out of the hole just keep pushing it this is a 6.527 millimeter drill imperial is a 257 just a little bit bigger than the screw you're going to use so if you're going to use a six millimeter screw drill it accordingly this is going to be a quarter 20 screw so it's just a little bit over light touch up on any burs that may be present once again with the saw everything is perfect you know when it starts to rock back and forth like that and hang up that you gotta get a good fit [Music] a little fast forward on the park job here trust me it doesn't fall off that quick it might on a screw machine but not on this one pre-drilling the bore for the arbor now the cap is set aside i will pilot drill the end of the arbor slightly deeper than the length of the cap that way i don't have to worry about boring a flat bottom hole and i know that the roughed out material is deeper than the boring bar will go so the boring operation should be relatively smooth after you rough out the end of the arbor we're going to pilot drill through for the quarter 20 tap and i am going to go slightly oversized with the drill i'll mention that again but slightly oversized with the drill i'm going about an inch and a half or so deep i want to make sure that the hole is much deeper than i really want flip the part around and i'm going to come in from behind with a larger drill now there's a reason for this if you take the overall length of the arbor minus the depth of the front bore where the cap is going to fit minus however much thread you want that will give you the value of how deep to put this rear hole in by having a through hole as opposed to a very deep bottom tapped arbor hole that allows you to use a very long screw on the cap and gives you a much wider range of grip ability for whatever saw you decide to use once you see the assembly it'll make a lot more sense and sorry about the autofocus the autofocus gremlins were alive and well while i was filming this and you can see that anchor loop does not like to stay put on a hot surface so do yourself a favor and put it down inside the hole if you want to continue to use that once your drill gets hot as much as i like it i had to switch back to wd-40 and there's the gremlins one more time they will go away so hang in there once you break through to the pilot hole the drill moves a whole lot easier make sure it's nice and cool before you touch it because i can tell you're pushing a hole drill that deep it's going to be hot let's flip it back around and work on the working end with the pilot hole for the tap drilled slightly oversized because of the material that i'm using let's see if we can chase some threads in there without snapping the tap off [Applause] okay force a habit guys i know i said chasing the threads it's not i'm actually tapping the threads and stainless is something you got to just get a feel for it can be quite fussy it's a very grippy material and it did take a little bit longer than this video represents to tap this hull the anchor lube is a great idea it's a good lubrication for stainless make sure you wipe it off of your machine or it will stain the ways and whatever other metal surfaces it touches before i start any final features on my parts i like to make sure that everything is nice and clean so i'll take the collet out i'll flush the collar out blow it out wipe out the taper on the inside of the nose only takes a minute just guarantees that you've done everything you can to assure that you'll get the precision that you're looking for the part has been pre-board so it's not quite the 625 that we're looking for i'm only going to stick it in the collet about an inch i'm going to try to replicate the extension of this arbor in the lathe the way it will sit in the mill and before i assume that anything is going to run true we're going to indicate it once you're sure two locations indicated out at the end and indicated right as soon as you have both of those locations zeroed out or close that you're so just double check it okay with what you're seeing by all means proceed with the final machining operations this is running about three tenths give or take [Applause] same with the collet or we can assure that this is pretty much spot on move it to the final boring operation with it extended like this in a thin wall that we are boring or that i am boring you can expect a little bit of noise it's very possible that it could chatter sing ring i put my finger on the outside of the tube as a damper if it starts to make noise chances are it'll just the harmonics will keep it going so if you can break the rhythm by putting something on the outside wrapping it with a rubber band can sometimes work on a thin wall i've also seen guys use bicycle inner tubes wrap it up and tape it and the inner tube will absorb the harmony and shut down the noise and give you a better finish on the inside believe it or not anytime you're machining stainless you have to be very aware of the heat especially on a thin wall like this as a thin wall like this gets hot it will react a lot faster than a thicker cross-section part and i was just a temperature check right there nice sharp tool is important keep it nice and cool before you do your test fit do not put the part in and walk away if it's got any kind of heat to it when you come back it's going to be one solid piece like a frozen shrink fit so make sure that everything is room temperature before you start messing around with gauges or mating parts once you're happy clean it up id and od three corner scraper for the inside i love those tools they're great 400 emery on the end of a g10 stick wiping out the burrs wiping out the dust and face off the end make sure that if you're going to board with it extended like this that you face it off extended like this too you want to make sure that all the features are true to each other clean up the od make it look pretty wipe off the debris flip it around do the other side there you go [Applause] okay let's put a collet in there the same size as the diameter of the saw id 5 8. this facing pass will determine the projection of the arbor so however thick you make this head right now will be the clearance that you'll have below the saw don't make it so thin that whatever screw or hardware that you decide to use distorts it under pressure so you want to balance out your design a little bit this boring bar is being used specifically just to make a counter bore for the cap screw being used and this cut here just started to scream a little bit on the way in so i'll back it off a little bit and do it in two passes and go back in and make sure that the bottom is flat with the draw pass three corner scraper on the corner and we are done finish time quarter to twelve a quick bench review of the features make sure that the cap that you make fits just perfectly inside the saw this will determine the concentricity or assist in the concentricity this inside corner right here has to be nice and sharp because as you can see there is no radius on these saws they are just spot on and this is carbide so if there's anything going on and you squeeze down on it it's going to blow up make sure that the cap fits inside the bore really smooth make sure that the bore is deeper than the length of the cap okay or just a little bit extra or board the same it really doesn't matter because you know you're going to have a saw in there right there you go i drilled a larger hole in the back of the arbor so that i didn't have to worry about how many threads were down in there there's about four hundred thousands worth of thread maybe ten millimeters worth of thread i used a cap screw instead of a flat head screw so i can use a much larger driver and when you assemble these you want to make sure that the teeth are facing as if this was a screw as if this whole thing was one piece when you turn it in you want to be forcing against the face of the teeth that way if it grabs it just gets tighter and does not unloosen here it is okay you can see i'm turning this clockwise to lock it down the resistance on this saw will also be clockwise so as you use this as you abuse this it is only going to get tighter [Applause] there you go super low profile you can get right up against whatever you're doing if you wanted to you could also tap the cap and bring a long screw in from behind the disadvantage to that is you will have to remove the arbor from the machine to then change the saw blades so bear in mind what you're going to be doing what your restrictions are what your needs are and do it accordingly let's pop this into milk collet fire it up see how true it runs that's a good still right there let's shoot that as a still okay concentricity test we're on a three quarter collet in the mill and there is a scuff mark on top of this saw that will make this look like it's running out excessively watch this area right here and i'm going to get it real close to the material as well and we'll see just how much it is running out watch the bump [Applause] you can see that scuff that comes around see what happens all right a little different camera angle here we can creep up on this piece of aluminum and i just want to show you how close you can get that without this chewing and grinding and running out the concentricity of this saw right now is is absolutely spot on if there were any error in the way this was running i would blame it on the saw because the arbor came out quite well mr autofocus drops by to say hello and there you go that's a great little project you can do and it's something that'll uh pay dividends for a very long time thank you to all my new patrons i will be upgrading my camera shortly so you don't have to worry about this anymore thanks for watching guys and stay well you

Channel: Joe Pieczynski

Views: 68,974

Rating: 4.9714813 out of 5

Keywords: Joe Pie, JoePieczynski, Advanced Innovations, advanced innovations llc, how to, machine shop, shop tricks, shop hacks, shop techniques, shop tutorials, slitting saws, tools you can make, slitting saw arbors, milling machine, models, scale models, steam engines

Id: Sp1Vaqwqw3c

Length: 20min 52sec (1252 seconds)

Published: Sun Sep 27 2020