PEX Pipe Installation - ALL Connections To Fittings In A WHOLE HOUSE!

in this video we're going to be doing a pex pipe installation i'm going to be installing the whole house you see here behind me with pex and if you're new to this channel my name is josh it shows all about building your own house savings home lights be sure to subscribe ring that bell so you get a notification every time i release a new video and hammer that like button for me that's all i ask in return for making this video so if you have never done any plumbing before this is going to be your complete guide to installing pex plumbing in your house let's get started the type of pecs we're going to be installing in this house is called pex type b this type of pex does not require a expanding tool this just is secured onto the fittings using a crimp ring i'm going to show you all the tools and accessories you're going to need to do your job and this comes in either red or blue you can buy from lowe's or home depot you can get in 100 foot rolls or you can buy it in 20 foot sticks like you see here so it depends on the size of your project what kind of length you need you don't have to use red for hot and blue for cold you can use all blue or all red for all the plumbing but i like to use the red for hot and then blue for cold it's just easy to see visually where my pipes are going all right let me go ahead and show you all the fittings that you're going to need for your project the tools you're going to need is a crimping tool for securing the rings around the fittings you're going to need a way to cut pipe and i'll just use the ratchet style pipe cutter this is simple and fast and effective then we use what's called a go or no-go tool and this confirms if our fitting is on the proper way and this will come with this tool if you get it from loser home depot it comes with the kit and then here are the rings that are used to secure the pipe they're just little copper rings this is three quarter this is half inch and they come in bags like you see here and you here are brass fittings and you can get brass or plastic i'll show you the plastic ones here in just a minute but these are about twice the cost of the plastic but i figured if i'm going to be doing the job i'm going to try to do the best i can the first time so you're going to need some three-quarter inch tees and this is a reducing tee this is three quarters a half inch you're going to use a good bit of those if you're going to be doing a whole house this is just half inch elbow and this is a half inch coupling and this is a three quarters inch coupling this is for extending your pipe this is a three-quarter inch elbow and this is clearly to do a 90 degree elbow and i just want to point out the blue color wrapper will be indication of if it's three quarters or half inch notice the half inch sizes have a pink wrapper and blue goes to the three quarter and that's in the shark bite brand so it all depends on which brand you get and then you're going to need a three quarter inch shutoff valve for your main shut off in your house and these are what i get in plastic these are the only plastic fittings i buy and they're just plugs to do your pressure test to confirm that you will not have leaks when you turn your water on so always get those in plastic and i used to get those in brass then here's the plastic version of the reducing tee but you can get any of the fittings i showed you in this plastic i just prefer the brass myself and then what you're going to need for securing the pipe are these half clamps they come in half inch and three quarter for whichever pipe you're going to be securing there's the box of them and then for the pressure testing i get a gauge like this that's hooked to a shark bite adapter so i can put on one end and then i get the valve stem with a sharkbite adapter for the other so i can take this off and on and use it on different jobs then in this house i'm going to be installing this anti-siphon anti-freeze spigot and we got an ice maker and this is sharkbite brand with the pex fitting and i already installed this washing machine outlet box and i got a video on how to do that and i'll put a card up above so you can watch that you're going to need a drill with a 7 8 inch bit and a 5 8 inch bit and this is for your 3 4 inch pipe going through the floor and studs and this is for your half inch pipe and this is a tool that's used to cut the crimp rings off later if you made a mistake and reuse the fitting but honestly you can avoid getting this i would because you really don't need it that often and this is a pair of pliers i'll show you how to use these with this installation in here in just a bit and your simple tools like a tape measure pencil and a tool bag if you're going to be doing a large job so it's easier to get to everything the first fixture i'm going to install is this outdoor spigot this is that anti-freeze one i showed you earlier and i already ran the main water line going into the house i'll put a link to a video up here showing you how that went in if you need to know how to do that and the main thing about these anti-freeze spigots is they need to tilt downwards like that when you install it in through the wall if you have it flat it's going to freeze and bust and the reason why that is when you put it on an angle like this when you shut it off the water will shut off from up here it'll drain out this copper pipe and then out before it freezes so really important do not install this level or like this you want to install it like that so i'm going to go ahead and drill that out and get my pecs ran through the wall and clamp it together and i'm going to show you how to do all that let's get started i already have this hole pre-drilled but i want to show you when you drill this out make sure your drill is tilted slightly upwards if you're drilling from the outside so that way it gives the spigot a slope another great benefit to pecks when going through garage walls like this it has less of a tendency to freeze and burst unlike cpvc or copper what i'm doing now is fishing the three-quarter inch pex pipe through the studs before i anchor the spigot to it because it's easier to do it now than it is after the spigots through the wall and this video also illustrates a great trait that pex pipe has the ability to flex up and down without having to put elbows in for joints so this is our first pex joint so check the factory end to your pecs if it is one make sure it's square if it isn't just take your cutting tool put it over the part you want cut and snip it off to where it's nice and square we like a nice square cut and then we're going to take our fixture in this case it's a water spigot and you're going to slide your three quarter inch crimp ring if you're using three quarter inch pipe and half inch if you're using half inch pipe put over the pipe first and then slide your fixture into the piece of pex then slide your crimp ring about an eighth inch from the end of the pipe you don't want to have it too close or too far apart eighth inches about right and what i like to do is take a pair of needle nose go over that crimp ring and crimp it on tight so it doesn't slide around and now we're going to use our crimping tool the three quarter inch hole part and then we're going to put it over that ring and you want to make sure your center of the tool so right there and then go ahead and clamp it on really tight until your tool locks so your tool is just going to be hanging there if it's crimped on right and then you release so your tool is going to come with this go and no-go gauge and this side is the go side and this is the no-go you can tell the go side by the hole that's out of the side of it and this should go right over that crimp ring and now if you switch over to the no-go it should just barely not go over it to where it won't let it go over it so that's how you can check to make sure you're crimped on properly so what i like to do before i go into the basement or crawl space to run the main trunk of the pex piping is go ahead and stub down all of my pipe through the floor so when i get down there i can know where i need to run my trunk and where to branch off to so what i need to do is go ahead and drill through the floor to where it's going to be so at a sink we know we need to be eight inches apart for our hot and cold and three inches away from the wall so let's go ahead and mark eight inches apart from the center of your sink drains i'm gonna go up through the floor so i'm gonna come three inches away from the wall and now what i'm gonna do is just drill right through the floor to where that's going to be coming up through [Music] okay and now i'm going to cut two pieces of the pex pipe one red one blue and they're going to be three and a half foot long so it doesn't have to be perfect and the reason why it has to be three and a half foot long is because we need to have 21 inches to the top of the pipe be sure when you stub these pipes through you put the red on the left and the cold on the right so that way there's no confusion so as you can see there's a lot of pipes that need stubbed through the floor before you go down into the crawl space or basement and just so you know as far as how far apart your hot and cold are like i said four is eight inches and for your toilet it's six inches to the left of the toilet flange and six inches high off the floor i'm going to go ahead and install this ice maker kit so to do that we need to mark the height of it so i want the bottom of the ice maker kit about six inches off the floor there we go so that's the bottom and then next i'm going to mark where it's going to go through the bottom of the wall plate see right there and now the next thing we got to do is drill that hole where it's going to go through the floor we need to install this pex on the ice maker kit and in order to do that we need to put our half inch crimp ring over the pipe slide it over the ice maker kit and then we're going to go ahead and clamp that on and then i use my needle nose to get it initially on and now we're going to use our crimping tool and get it secured into place and the reason why we have such a long piece of pex because it has to go through the floor and below the floor joists to connect to the main trunk of the pex pipe so now we're going to go ahead and fish that through the floor and right there is about where we want it and now we just secure that using drywall screws in this little snailing flange and there we go and now when they drywall around this all we got to do is install this trim piece over that and we're good to go this is the washing machine outlet box that's located in the laundry room if you need to learn how to install this i'll put a card above to the link to the video that shows you how to install it and this is the last fixture that needs the pressure lines pushed through the floor before going into the crawl space [Music] [Applause] the best method for these hundred foot rolls is to unravel it and straighten it out before you go into crawl space it makes the pipe straighter and easier to use [Applause] [Music] these are the pipes we stubbed down through the floor earlier these are our targets we're shooting for when we run the main trunk [Music] [Applause] this is the main water line where it's entering into the house first thing you want to do is elbow straight up so that way you can start supporting your water line to the bottom of the floor joists and then install a water shut off valve in line so that way if something goes wrong and you have a leak you can shut the water off and you know shut everything off in the house [Music] and always check your connections using the go and no-go tool [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] once you begin running along your floor joists be sure to secure it using the half clamps [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] i just ran the pipe straight until i came to an intersection where i had to use a t to continue running [Music] [Applause] [Music] this is the beauty of pex you can pull it down and flex it to where you need it to install the fittings and then push it back up into place after you do and it's also this is the negative part about pex though is you need to get the crimping tool in tight places sometimes which can be a pain [Music] [Applause] [Music] here's a situation you could only do with pecs if this was copper or cpvc you could not do this joint and flex it into place like you see me do here [Applause] [Music] you can use a pencil or a marker to mark your pex pipe to cut it to length and also this is going to be a place where i t up so i'm also going to mark the pipe to where i need it on the way up and down so wherever it crosses is where you mark it and that's because this water line is already secured in the outlet box for the washing machine so i could not just push it up in order to connect to the fitting [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] some people call this method trunk and run or they call it trunk and branch this means the same thing but i just want to let you know that i finally got the crawl out of that crawl space and now i'm going to attach the hot water lines and what i'm doing here first is just marking the height and the height is five foot six inches to where i'm coming out of the wall for my hot water tank i'm going to be installing a 50 gallon and always use blocking that way you can secure your pipe to something solid and then all you got to do is lift your pipe up to your height and cut it flush and then just take it and secure it into place [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] all i'm doing here is elbowing straight out from the wall and this is three-quarter pipe just to remind you so you run your main water supply right to your hot water tank and then this is the beginning of your hot water lines coming from the hot water tank of course [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] at this point i took a half clamp and just secured my pipe into place and i put them eight inches apart [Applause] [Music] i'm sure you noticed that three inch pipe that's just hanging from the ceiling that is my radon vent pipe i ran out of collars the other day but i wanted to stub it up through the wall so that's why it's just hanging there and waiting for a collar the reason why i'm elbowing this towards each other is because i gotta install a pipe to connect it because for pressure test purposes i need to connect the hot and cold water lines together in this bathroom i have to install the plumbing going through the wall because i'm on a concrete slab so i could not stub the pipes up through the floor i could have done it before i poured the slab but i figured the pressure lines would be easier to do through the wall [Music] something you may want to keep in mind if you're doing this project is you got to put nail plates wherever you have pipe going through a stud so that way when the drywall people or if you're hanging a pitcher or something of that nature you don't drive a nail right into your plumbing pipes and you also do it for electrical just fyi [Music] [Applause] the method i like to use when it comes to the go and no go tool is batch check everything so do several connections then check all of them at once [Applause] [Music] i'm installing the reducing keys for my sink supply lines and these are going to reduce the line from three quarter to half inch and stub out just enough to connect my sinks to and if you're curious how far out you need to be out three inches from the wall [Music] this is the end of the hot water run right here so i'm going to reduce down to a half inch because the last thing i need to connect is a shower so i don't need a three-quarter supply for that [Music] i'm going to t down to supply my toilet with water i'm also going to reduce down to a half inch because i'm going to be ending at the shower just like the hot water [Music] these are the sink supply lines i was just mentioning and as you can see i'm out way more than three inches that's because i got to cap these lines off for the pressure test and i'm going to cut these back down after the pressure test is complete [Music] [Applause] [Music] i'm going to elbow out to supply the toilet with the water and in order to have the correct height i need to measure off the rough floor six and a half inches [Music] all i need to do is install my metal nail plates and this bathroom is ready for electricity you're wondering what do we do with all the other half inch pipe that's stubbed up through the floor for the shower for the sinks for the kitchen sinks well what we do now is we go through with these half inch plugs they look like this like that and these little plugs go down in the pipe and they plug the ends like you see me do earlier in that bathroom and the reason why you do that is because when you pressure test that's the only way you can seal off these tops and then after you've done your pressure test then you cut these off the exact height you need for sinks it needs to be about 21 inches to the top of them before you uh do your sink installation so all right guys this that's going to be for our next video on how to pressure test so be sure to subscribe if you want to check that out when i release it and i'm going to get a lot of stuff done here yet so i want to say thanks a lot for watching be sure to subscribe and i'll see you in the next video peace

Channel: The Excellent Laborer

Views: 56,887

Rating: 4.8766313 out of 5

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Id: SElvliyv61I

Length: 21min 43sec (1303 seconds)

Published: Sat Sep 04 2021