Pex Pipe Plumbing (The Complete Series)

hello and welcome to the how to plumbing channel my name is Claude Taylor for those of you that know me welcome back those that don't hope you enjoy the video and if you do become a subscriber and give it a thumbs up thank you okay let me give you a little story on this this house here it was flooded caught in a flood in April 2016 and now the home is being renovated and of course my part is to change out the plumbing and what we're gonna do here is we don't have any wall ceiling so this is great makes it a lot easier so I decided that I'm gonna come through here and we're gonna run PEX pipe just giving you a overview and showing you what we got in here this wall right here that's gonna be the kitchen law with the sinks and then we slowly walk back here there's a room there and this little spot here this was where a bathroom is and that bathrooms gonna go right back this is where the toilet and all the junk you see down there don't let that fool you there's stuff up under it blocking it from getting it to the drain this here is going to be the shower wall and let's see what we got here we're walking into this was the master bath bathroom faster bedroom and in here we will be running new pics pipes we won't be installing any new drainage pipes but we will be connecting to them right here we'll have a hot and cold pics line coming down castor hot cold water and okay this one we need put something down there the old galvanized plumbing was in here but I came through here and ripped all that out this is gonna be another tub and shower there's the drain we need to plug that up so we're not on the jobsite now actually we're back in another location and I am going to prepare the tub and shower valves here and make them up so they'll be prefab so when I take them over to the job site we're working I can just set them in place so what we're gonna do here is just gonna put two and just showing you the tubing cutter if you with what you seen just there as I turned the light on to it look through a little window that they have and I can see the mark right there on my pipe through that little window it's really handy one day where you come from get out of here okay this is a pecs tub shower valve two of the ends the the shower end where the shower head comes out and the spouts where the water comes out the bottom part those part those ends will be soldered in with copper pipe and you can see on the right there at the right hand side right there that PEX fitting type okay it's gonna be picks and the type of text we were use is open or also known as words bow this cover here that I'm just showing you there that's gonna go back on there and this is a Moines chugging shower valve oddly temp this is probably the most easiest double shower valve that you can work with I mean I don't know a plumber that doesn't go and install these this is the cartridge that we're pulling out and everything is being taken apart on the tub and shower valve so that when we go put the heat in soldering and sweating the copper and brass together we don't melt the washers like you see right here that washer right there all that stuff we put too much heat applied too much heat we could damage that so we're gonna take all that out and the park right there this is these are called the stops stops meaning the cut offs these are the cut offs to the turbine shower valve so with these you don't have to cut the water off to the entire house you can just cut it right there and change the cartridge if that's needed and of course here we can just clean these fittings up we're always gonna clean the brass fittings and copper fittings up before we solder our sweat any pipe together and put any and the caps they're going to go on to the tubby Shire now but eventually they're gonna be cut off of there but just for now we're putting them on there so that we put them in place cut the water on and we have something to stop the water while it's on and we're testing the system and the we can't see the cutter right now he's an eye candy and I know everyone's not gonna run out and purchase it unless they do quite a few jobs like up I myself do but they are handy and us you can't go out and buy the manual small cutters they're just as effective let's just seize a little faster just use a little Santa cloth here to clean the pipe up yeah this is the flux that we're gonna use the otay made by okay this is not advertising for him but that's really the only flux that actually uses me pal and what I like to do once once I do put the fittings together after they're all fluxed up and together is take a rag or paper towel and just clean the excess flux that's around the edges of the fittings and the pipe it makes for a night eat solder connection solder well and what I'm doing here with these cello players is kind of egg shaping the pipe fitting and the pipe itself so that when I do go twist that pipe it locks in place so when I do googler solder it I'll move it around the pipe won't fall out of the fitting it's jammed in there pretty good with the egg shaped and here's the rag I'm used wipe it clean it up and by the way this is probably the most soldering copper pipe soldering that's gonna be done on this jobsite other than that everything's gonna be pécs but there are areas where you'll see copper and that this is B this will be one of them and then you'll see galvanized pipe on the stub out so I'll show you those later in throughout the video galvanized stubs out that's because we want some type of pipe again here you see me egg saving it before I put it into the valve now when I put it into the valve it's gonna squeeze in here tightly and it's gonna stay in place okay and back to the galvanized pipe that we'll be using in the copper and we're only using those in strategic areas where we need stability PEX pipe is great but it's not a pipe that you want to use when stubbing out where valves and stuff like that needs to be cut off and on because you don't want the pipe moving you want a stable so that's where the hard rigid pipe like this and this particular gas that I'm using with this torch kit here is a propane that you can pick up in any hardware store and I do have two sets this is a smaller set that I use the small jobs like this Siddalee it's a much larger and we do all day [Music] also plenty of videos on how to you and now that you see me applying the heat to the brass valve on the copper pipe [Applause] it could be a issue with you rubber washers or cartridge getting melted if not totally melted get to it mediator Billy Cox manage it and you you really can't hear me you know I mean you killed really can't see what I'm doing right now but what I'm doing is I'm taking the other tough job out I'm taking it apart as I let this here cool down a little bit before we okay we don't really have a workbench or anything like that here to to work off so we're gonna do we're gonna improvise and make something where we set this a little state will give it inside this cap on here and this is the I guess we call it the guide to guide you when someone is putting the drywall back up on the wall over this or the Builder rock cement board this is a guideline and it will keep you right where you need to be so that you're not too far back in the wall or too far out you just use this as a guide okay here it is set up all in place nothing to it everything's put back together we even have the showerhead no ok now we're here we're we're here back on the jobsite and in this box we have the mana block these are the fittings to the mana blocks where which we're going to use to connect the pipes to the mana block these are the templates you know letting us know the locations of the hot and cold and what particular fixtures is going to be tied in which particular spot and though that's another template to cut holes for the metal block here so the pipes can run through this is the large manifold block this is where all the water from from the outside coming into the house will tight go into there and from there all the water will be distributed throughout the house from here to the kitchen sinks the last things tubs showers tallit laundry etc and this is how it's made up hard and you can see the big red key right there that's the key that's where you turn each individual valve off or on the red valve right there that you're looking at to the left side there's two of them right there those are valves to cut the water off there's blue ones on the other side and and they did send two of them one is attached to the mount a block in case a customer has an emergency they can run out to the garage or whatever the manna block is and grab that key and cut the water off to any particular fixture that might be leaking or maybe having a problem okay what we're doing here now is we're just kind of sizing it up and just getting an idea of where a good location would be for this manner blocks so just look like a pretty good spot right here so we're gonna get this board right here out the way and usually the easiest way to remove to that for is not to take a hammer a slam and it knocked it out the way who wouldn't doing here is I'm using a small reciprocating saw just cut through the nail nails under it [Music] knocked out a place without damage more than we need to damage you see right there it comes right out now so now we just pull this out our way and I'm gonna use this piece over again I'm gonna use it as backing backing mean a brace it's gonna be a brace for the new manifold it's going to here again here's the manifold and these is the manifold this is the bracket then we're gonna attach the manifold to and once we get that attached to that our backing that we are going to make up we are going to attach this mount a block to that and and when I ordered this manna block it came with everything I need now there are like two to three different types of Matlock's this particular manna block it's useful for the type of pick spike that I'm using it'll work with basically any picks pipe but I'm using words bow so there are many blocks that they make that will not work with words bow tubing but this particular one will because it is compression fittings so all we're going to do is push do is push the pipe into the fitting and it's gonna be compressed and tightened now which you can use any pipe for that Ubah nor does make their own mana block system it's nothing like this I think this is probably one of the best mana blocks that I've seen out there it's more organized there's a lot neater and easier to work with I mean open door has a nice one that's made of copper tubing but it's not as convenient as this I feel as this particular manner block here so I went with this man of lock this time I did another video previous to this where I didn't use any mana block I just actually made up my own distribution box and I'll leave a description of that video or a link to that video in the descriptions below okay that's gonna look pretty good right there look like it's gonna be nice and even even seeing all the step out step out meaning the parts that are coming out the side of the mana block all these holes pretty much line up with all of those making it easy you run the pipe through here and attach the case you're interested the drill bit that I'm using is an inch and a quarter because the Picts pipe is gonna be 3/4 inch but the outside the amateur of that is gonna be seven and eight so we don't want too much play and we don't want one or two tight so that inch and a quarter just happens to work out just right I now you can see we got the we have the mental block the mana block in place where we need it we want it and I do apologize for the lighting this is probably the best we can do right now because all the electric in this house is cut off right now and we've got the garage door opening giving us plenty of light until we get into those dark corners and now we've got it here and I'm just kind of sizing it up kind of we're gonna drill some more holes up at the top where the three quarter inch lines will be coming into the mantle block and I'm just getting the measurement off of that board from as plumbers we always go we use center marks so from the edge of that board in that corner over there the center is 15 and they was at 15 and a half 15 three quarters so we want to line that up as close as we can to the part of pipe is coming out at the top here and this drill bit here is this is inch and a half and if you wonder and this is the impact rancher down music zero drill this hole it makes it makes a little easier than wrong okay now we've got that done and we're back over here at the in the master bedroom where we have the master bath and we're gonna get something going over here okay now what you see me doing here is I'm going to screw this as a pecs drop eared 90 is what they call it they also make it four copper pipe and they're still a drop eared 90 but this is a drop here 90 picks fitting and the carpenters put on the siding of the house they put plywood which is good it works out great for me oh there's brick on the other side of this I think a lot of people out there especially some of you that have PEX pipe in your home already could appreciate why I am using this hard rigid pipe here because I know the systems that they have in a lot of the homes new homes that they're building they're just stubborn the PAC's pipe right out the wall outside the wall and there's no nothing rigid about it it's just so loose and it just looks scary so when you go to reach up under there to cut a valve off it's kind of nerve-wracking but here when you reach up under your sink you'll have a nice sturdy strong pipe where you can turn the water off and on and if there's any issues it's easier to replace that valve or work on any faucet up under your sink long as you have a nice sturdy cutoff valve and a sturdy piece of pipe coming out of the wall and a lot of the new homes that they're building today depending on where you lived they're using a lot I noticed run into it a lot they're using a lot of cern pecs fittings and PEX pipe yes there is a difference it specs but the difference between these earth and the open or which way I'm using here this is open or is the opening of the fitting if you look at the wing 90 there the old opening at the top that is a true half inch opening it's the same size opening as the pipe itself whereas the Zurn the opening is just a little smaller than that has inch and a lot of inspectors do you know they kind of frown upon that the smaller opening so this is I would say this is probably the more preferred pipe to use for to be on the safe side wood inspector bad pipe it's just the opening and the biggest thing that we find out in plumbing is we need a it's we want to limit water restriction in any pipe not too many turns not too many small areas to fit in and right here we're going to this is we're going to hang our turbine shower valve before we hang it here we need to put our brace up something to screw the winged eared or drop here elbow tooth and this is the slot where the top of Charlotte's gonna go yeah that's our backing for it again backing brace same thing and whenever you're installing a new tub shower valve any any renovation or any new home the you always want to set it at six foot six from the ground to the center of that pipe right there so this is six foot six from the ground and if you're a tall person you can appreciate it when you go to take a shower if that showerhead is too low I know it's frustrating I'm not that tall myself but it's frustrating six foot six is the most standard height for most people or should I say the most comfortable height and we're going to put another brace right back here on piece of backing the brace to the valve itself and that plastic covering on the top of shower valve right there you want to leave it on until it's time to install the trim to the tub of shower valve because the purpose it serves now is to guide the guys that are going to put the drywall and the backer board up to make sure they don't so to make sure that they line it up and it's protruding out far another because you don't want it sitting back too far on the wall if that's the case you would have issues putting the trim work on there and trust me you just don't want you want make it as close as you can to where you need to and this little backing this is something that I made up I just took a piece of 2x4 and not a piece out the side of the valve itself which I probably opened a little more which I will the notch because the pecs fitting is sitting kind of back too far but we'll take care of that later but for now we're gonna get this mounted and anchored down and while I'm thinking about it it's also just a reminder that when when you're working on the bathroom when you're going to install a new tub the shower valve also you're gonna install a new tub so the tub always goes in before the drywall or any door rock goes on the wall because the tubs have lips on them and the drywall and the towel just comes right over that lip and also tubs come in right hand and left hand I ran into quite a few people that went out and bought a left hand tub not understanding that there is a left and a right hand tub only to get it to their house to find out they have the wrong tub so keep that in mind that if you're going to do any renovation know if you have a left or right hand tub and if I was facing the tub and the cutoff L was to my right hand that would indicate that that is a right hand tub fight the versus the left you can see on the right hand side where the piece of pics of the shower valve is coming out it's just about to touch that piece of wood so later throughout the video I'll come back and I'm gonna I'm gonna chop off a piece of that so that that text paper come in there without being jammed up in there and what I usually do after I do you know use screws like this it's gonna protrude out from the backside so once I'm done screwing it down I just take a pair of channellock pliers and I will just break off the back end of it real easy and it'll be nice and flush with the board after that and again we want to keep this on this is our this is the guide for the drywallers and the Tyler's know where they're at things are done properly and another thing too that seated that that's really kind of frustrating is that once these are in place I've gone to homes where the whoever installed the tub and shower Val you can see right there they see that angle if you have half-inch drywall then the tile it comes out just right but anyway they have that shield on there and that bracing and the shield they leave it on there so when you go to pull it office you have to fight to get the thing off of there so that you can get ax to the get access to the tub shower valve well anyway here we are this is the main water coming into the house we're on the side of the garage so what we're gonna do is we're gonna cut this section out and we're gonna put we're gonna come back with new galvanized pipe we're still gonna use some galvanized pipes just enough right here to make it nice and rigid and sturdy so you can go outside that valve off and on you have a nice sturdy piece of pipe to hang onto and I do have a have a video this pipe is coming up from the ground I actually did a video on that where I brought I ran new tech spike from that Valve all the way to the water meter so I'll leave a of I'll leave a link to that in the this is a 3/4 my 3/4 of 1/2 tea the half-inch is going to be for the outside faucet we're you know case one water grass or something and this is the uh this is the old girl speaking that was on here so we're gonna and not only is the water off to the valve right there it's off its off - at the meter right now after the flood they cut a lot of the water off to the homes you know we're back to manifold and all of the work you just see me do is in preparation to run the main cold water line over to the to here but first what we're gonna do of course we use in red and red is always an indication of hot but this red is going to go from the manna block over to where the hot water heater is going to be which is the near the kitchen area it will be back to back the water heater will be outside in the garage as well as the laundry and on the back wall those of the holes that cut for the hot water heater and we're gonna pull this through and of course hot is always on the left hand side so we're gonna pull the hot through for the water heater and again this wall is a back to back wall back to back from the we've got the kitchen sink icemaker and dishwasher all on one side and on this side the outside where the garage is we have the Alana and water heater itself and this is pipe going over to that area of where the water heater is going to be and it is the wort the line is up high because the water heater we will set it on a stand an 18-inch stand so we'll stand up a lot taller and this will tie into the manner the one thing about PEX pipe you do want flexibility in it so you don't want to stretch it too tight because you want it to be able to expand and contract expand to contract because that's what it's going to do throughout the course of the life of the pipe itself and here are some more lines that we ran and this is a half-inch and here's the three-quarter inch coal for the hot water heater and if you ever see an electrician run wires that's basically the basically the same thing we're doing here just like it's running wires and a mana block is just like a uh a fuse box where all the fuses and all the electric come from your house into that box and distribute from there the same thing same principle you see me good and what you see you see see me hammering on here right now the anchor and these are called talons they're very popular with the PEC system you can also use it for copper pipe any pipe that has the outside and if you going to you know run x-pipe a second hand wouldn't be bad having someone giving you a second hand helping it out was that can't you sing and once the you know once we have this text pipe in place and the houses being used waters constantly being used this uh this PEX pipe will begin to relax and it will relax and it won't be bunched up like you see it now it'd be in more of a and of course that red one right there complete pull that little tighter oh you notice here's the pics pipe coiled up and we're leaving it in the package and it unravels as we pull it out you don't want to make mistake and I've done this myself is I've taking it all out of the package and once you do that the pipe is everywhere and it's really hard to work with this is the easier way easiest way to work with the text pipe is to keep it in a 2g you keep it in the package and pull it out as you need okay what we have here we have a we have a laundry box equipped with hot and cold water is copper sweat connection so what we're going to do we're not going to run it to copper pipe and it's not a tech system you can buy and this is of course it's the ice maker you can buy them to where they already have a PEX connection at the end of it so happen these don't so we're gonna use a half-inch copper to PEX sweat sweat adapter and we're gonna solder that on to the right there the side of that on to that piece of brass right there and now we can convert it from sweat pipe to pixel pipe and we're going to do the same thing with the lottery and again we met the job site and we're here in the garage we're going to piece this together so that the when the next day come and we have a chance we go back over there and it's done a lot of these workers a lot of this work is not done on the job site because I do have a regular job and I am pointing back and forth from that job and doing it I can get over there I'm gonna have to move a little faster because the other contractors they are kind of moving pretty fast and I need to keep up with them so this helps me uh stay a little head of the game so when I'm at home I and this is the laundry box again and what I just showed you is the you see the three outlets you could use them for either or either or meaning you could use them for the other valve itself like we're doing here or we can use that same slot that we just put the valve in we can use it for the drain so those valves can use be used in any one of these holes and the drain itself can use be used in any one of these holes it depends on the configuration of the plumbing and that's what makes it so convenient it's what you call universal so Universal laundry backs and this one will be used in the upside down position and you can see there's another two-inch you can see right now there's another two-inch opening that we're going to connect to the drain rather than the three on top so the one in the middle will use the blank cap they were gonna use to cover that one up and again here is the connector this is a transition fitting they call it a transition transition fitting because it transitions from copper or brass to pix Pike system and right here we have this is I carry this all the time on the van this is uh this is just a little pool box that I keep a lot of my own copper of tools in you know copper cutters sweater flux solder stuff like that it helps keep doing more organized I know it looks a little junky right now but it comes in handy and this is what I use for the bigger system when I'm using running a lot of copper probably all day long and I use a lot bigger tank this is the small one that I use the small jobs like this this is the propane bottle that you can get from any hardware of course this is the torch setup that we use and I like it because you don't need a striker you just click the button there you go and you also have the other button free to use the solder and this is solder that we're gonna use this is lead-free solder also you can some people might call it ninety five five back in the day we used to use fifty-fifty but now they know that dennis related to do to you so it's been eliminated and this is the flux that we're going to use and my flux brush and I usually just after I open it up and have used it in a little while I kind of just stir it up kind of mix it back up and again I do have other videos out there in case you're interested in interested in learning how to solder copper pipe I have plenty of how to solder copper pipes videos on YouTube just type in my name claw Taylor are just type in how to plenty and it will pull all my videos right up and it is important that you clean all the fittings for the brass and the [Music] and I always brush the end of the fitting with the wire brush because I also want the flux to get into that and the solder I wanted to get as much solder on there as I can without flooding the pipe and cutting off circulation but we want to do what a again you can buy this laundry box with the valves and the adapter already on there just so haven't we just have this one laying around so hey let's just go and you notice how I solder the two connections together torch the plastic box constantly have a fire facing the opposite direction with the and the settings we have here is a two-cent I mean when you're on a jobsite you don't have the time or the availability of brackets and things that you need that you would like to have to the hold the air piped steady or the fitting that you working on the stick up steady so here you just have to but if you feel you need to have some type of grace and ice that's great but and it's another day and we're back on the job site and this is the laundry box that you see me working with in the garage all put together and we're gonna put it in place now of course the water lines will be coming from the top and again there's a reminder the red valve is so hot the blue is very cold and hot so ease and left cold always on the right and here we are on the far east side end of the house where I am going to make a hole in this brick and chisel you can buy this chisel and almost any hardware store and this hole here is going to be toward the outside faucet you could go out and rent a hammer drill and cut this hole if you're gonna do it a lot it's probably worth it but if you're not gonna do it as much this is Friday that's the easiest way to go ahead attack it and save you money in renting and all I need to do is make it big enough to get a half inch piece of galvanized pipe in here and once I make this opening right behind it you see the two by fours see it real good but the 2x4 and what we're gonna do here is we're gonna take our drill and we're gonna drill through that two-by-four this so that when we put the galvanized pipe in it's gonna go straight into where we need it and where we can connect to the PEX pipe system and again using galvanized pipe making this this spot right here nice and sturdy for cutting off and on water or any repairs that they may need to be made and some people do like on the outside faucet this make a nice sturdy that come now what you see on the end of this drill you see the of course you see the drill bit itself but the drill bit is attached to an extension the drill bit is not actually that long and you can also get that extension by that [Music] as long as one so happening I got lucky and just enough of a drill bit to make it to where I need to and here it is on the other side I got stuck in there just grab our tongue like pliers and just pull this out because got the hole that we need and now we can run our galvanized pipe straight through here and attach it to this in with the text remember how many outside just pushing just pieces in and I'm leafy leaving the safety cover the threads to keep the threads from getting banged up said we can thread an elbow on the end and that whole end up to end up being a little off so I had to make the whole little oval shape to make the get the guy like to fit in there again here we're on the outside and the other hole that you're seeing right next to that one that holes been there and that's the hole for the refrigerant lines will be running through there some of you call it uh well refrigerant lines and this is just a random piece that I bought at Home Depot it's about two and a half three feet long I'm not sure I don't remember but it's long enough to reach where I need to need it to so that I can tie it on to the other end with the PEX pipe and have the the other end protruding out to the outside where we can put the outside faucet and again this is the another one of the of the old when it was on here so we're just gonna put that back on here for now because when we come back we're going to install new ones and also we're going to install the siphoning devices on the ends of the and now we're this is back on the west side of the house this is if you remember when I started working on the main water coming into the house so again I bought a piece of pre-cut galvanized pipe from the hardware store Home Depot it's just long enough to make it in there where I can catch on to it with an elbow and I think this piece is 11 inches long about I don't remember but I remember measuring it but it's been a while but it's in there and it's and what I need to do is try to get it started from here on the outside here and go ahead and tighten it out here and the water that you hear running is from the house next door one of the guys that's doing some painting cleaning his and we're back on the inside and this is where the 90 gonna go and that 90 wall these are the stickers indicating what that line is going to and if I'm not mistaken I think that was a little laundry stickers and what I've done here is I put a cover over the mantle block so when I left in the evening or when I left the from working there I put it over the amount of blocks so I'd be protected in case any of the workers came through and didn't want anything to fall on and anyone to run into it and and this you know break it or anything here that's better lighting and to show you the compression fittings and again when you buy the manna block all of these fittings will come with the manna and this is the tool that we use to that this didn't come with the box I had to order this separate this is made just for these fittings right here to tighten and the cutters that I'm using here you can purchase just about any hardware and again all these fittings come with the mana block itself and they can be used with any type of text plumbing pipe or plumbing tubing this is the ferrule this Ferro as a matter of fact the blue one that I did below this one I forgot to put it on there so I took it back off and I did put that Ferro on there and all of these are compression fittings you can see how once it gets in there and you can press and compress the fittings together it's gonna be a nice tight fit and what I've done is I tighten it as tight as I could I wouldn't say it tight as I could but at Titus I felt comfortable with before turning the water on so so when I got it nice and tight I turned the water on to the building and then I just if there was any tweaking needed to be done I did it then and again this is the tool that they make for it and it doesn't come with the mantel block you have to order it separately and that's going to be repeated on and on on the manna block and we're going to we're gonna focus on the supply to the waterline right here this is a OKs again this is a drop here 90 but this one here is 3/4 inch because there's 3/4 inch that goes into the home water you can see on that piece of wood I'm right at it not as usually hard either and these are the three-quarter inch galvanized nipples that we'll be tying into the water heater wants the walls is up and the water heaters in and right now we're just said in there that setting in there temporarily because normally we would we would put some type of a teflon tape a pipe dope on there and you could see how that would make it nice and sturdy and here we are using the pecs expander tool [Music] I'm really not getting a good view here but we'll have plenty we've got 20 more to do you'll see it and if you do decide to buy some pics pipes make sure that you get the uber nor PEX pipe I wouldn't recommend using this expander tool with any other type of PEX tubing some of them are a little more rigid I just wouldn't recommend it I actually don't use them so but notice the texture and the pipes are different and I don't know if they expand as well but keep in mind open or pipe and if you're gonna use this to use open or pipe now these pieces of these galvanized pieces that I'm putting into the nipples I'm just gonna screw it in so tight and that's about it and we're gonna leave the opening we're not gonna cap it because I'm going to use a flex line from one to the other to make a complete connection as if the water heater was in place but it's not just so that I can use that to test out the test out the water piping and make sure that there's no arm no leaks without waiting to have the water heater in place because we want to check it before any walls or anything is put up another great thing about running this open or PEX tubing is that all your fittings the weakest connection to any pipe or the weakest connection is gonna be at a connection so there's no connections in the attic itself when the pipes run across the ceiling all the connections are down below what you'd have access to them so if you're gonna have any issues usually it's gonna be at the connections but with this pipe here I haven't experienced it so and here we're back on the other side of the where the water heater is this is gonna be the kitchen area so we're going to we're gonna put out drop here 90s here half inch again but going to use three for the kitchen sink and that is because that is because one hot one cold to the faucet and then we have another hot that's going to go to the dishwasher but they're all going to come out from up under the cabinet right next to each other and this is just another piece of backing that I made up to hang the drop or 90s to so that we can stabilize our pipe it has have some stability and of course this one you're going to be for the dishwasher just keeping it a little bit away from the the sink step outs now all we have to do is bring our PEX pipe down to these fittings and and that's it connect them that's a lot easier than when we did it back in the day when we did it in copper and galvanized or any other pipe it's much easier and the color coding makes it very easy also because there are times that plumbers include myself we've crossed pipe you know the hot Nicole but this makes it very difficult to come across the pipes we know that the Reds for hot and blues for cold so it's kind of hard to mix I had a guy asked me on the video why you know if you're taking the galvanized pipe out why would you put galvanized pipe in which is a good question but um my response is I'm not replacing the old galvanized with old galvanized I'm placing it with new galvanized so there's nothing wrong with new galvanized pipe I mean if you sit here and imagine trying to run this whole house with galvanized pipe right now you know it would be very labor intense but we're running with the PEX pipe it's a lot easier and I am using the galvanized only where it's necessary to make it sturdy so there's nothing wrong with the galvanized pipe the long as this new galvanized pipe and I don't put the cutoff valves on just yet because many reasons I'll give you that reason in a second I'm taking that off because it doesn't have a stop on it I want one want to stop so your doesn't rise up on the pipe itself and a stop meaning there's a little Ridge in it that keeps it from pushing it back up down the pipe and you see how the expander works it expands the pipe at the same time it's expanding that you can notice it makes turns and that helps it and there you go BAM we're done if we would have done this and completely in galvanized or copper pipe this whipped and again back to the caps that I have on the end of these I have the capsule in there and not the vowels because once they drywall tape and float paint all that stuff will get on the valves and not only that it makes a little harder for the drywaller to make his cut his holes and make it nice and neat so therefore we cap it and we'll come back later on cap it and put the cut off fouls on there and here we are again this is for the uh what is that the dishwasher this is the hot for the dishwasher and that's gonna be the hot for the kitchen sink etc so these little tags come in very these are very handy if you have a box like this and you need a plumber to come to your house and come to work let him know where this box is this will this will save you some time and some money so you don't have to search around hey it'd be very convenient and cut time down you don't have to cut it off to the whole house or she sorry you can see how easy this male block is to work with and connecting these fix and again uber nor they do have their uh their own mana block this is not over nor mana block this is actually not sure who makes this one but they have three different types and this particular one is just perfect for what I need right now going to the Ubben our text piping so if you're going to give a man a block make sure you get the right one good they all look they all look just alike if you don't look at them closely you're gonna you're gonna grab the wrong one so make sure that you get one that looks like this with the compression fittings and not the fittings that are already and this is the hot this is the cold actually well this is the hot coming in from the hot water heater going into the mana block which will feed that left hand side of all the hot lines from the water heater [Music] and if you're gonna use channel lock pliers anything to tighten us down you don't want it too tight just snug enough because it does have the o-rings where you don't have to really crank down on that this is the adapter to the manna block from the compression from the Picts pipe the urban or PEX pipe and what we're doing here it's going to be a compression fitting again any pipe would work with this any copper pipe any other PEX pipe or Zurn pipe or even CPVC by the way I'm not a strong CPVC type of person I really really just don't care for it myself now you see that paint that's scraped off of that red there you're gonna see just why that paint that little covering was scraped off because when you fit this piece on here with the ferrule it's a ferrule inside of it a little brass ring it's it's just snug enough just to get over the pipe and it's gonna scrape a little bit but there's no harm done pipes still very effective and won't leak and on compression fittings pipe dope or pipe compound is not recommended on using to use on compression fittings most compression fittings are a nice dry fit we let the Pharaoh and the compression do the work itself and whenever ever you're going to thread any kind of connection to plastic piping be very cautious plastic is very easy to cross thread and you notice I kept going back and forth back and forth I went back and forth and then eventually you feel that groove that it fits right in then you go for it but if you don't feel it if it's tight right at the beginning no don't don't force it that cold water is going up to feed the hot water tank and that's going feed the hot water tank and your black day red one's coming back to from the water tank and the other there'll be a third 3/4 inch blue right here this will go to the main water line that comes into the house so we're gonna splice that right in here [Applause] [Music] [Applause] and if you can always get the blue light ring there get the ones that have the stops on it meaning the stops meaning there's a little Ridge that you can't push it all the way completely over the pipe because that little Ridge will stop it that's called the stop so you want here we have here's the PEX pipe this is how it comes in a bundle and if you've seen the beginning of this video there was a part where I was working with the text pipe and I was explaining why we keep it in the wrapper so all we want to do is open it up there's directions actually right here we just want to open it up and we just want to find the N one end and start pulling it from that end and we use it from the bundle as we need it we pull it out I've made the mistake before is where when I opened the whole bundle and just let it all out and that really kind of made a mess I mean I worked with it it wasn't really bad but I mean this makes it a lot easier if you just keep it wrapped up okay now we've got some new pitch pipes we're going to get our mainline tied in right here the mainline from the outside faucet outs just outside the brick wall to two here and this is gonna feeding to feed into this system right here [Applause] [Music] and again I wouldn't recommend trying to use this expander tool on any other PEX pipe other than text pipe that's made by open or and again open or worse bow or and you see you on the end of the galvanized pipe I have a text transition fitting from galvanized to or iron pipe to PEX pipe and here we are back on the outside give me an idea we're gonna take that insulation I'm gonna wrap it up a little tighter later now we're here back in TV this is the hall bathroom on the east side of the house just as we've done with the kitchen and the master bedroom and anchored down our wing 90s and we're just gonna run out text pipe straight to it again blue on the right red on the left hot red blue cold and we're gonna stretch that blue one a little bit more so we can get that little wave out of there but at the same time we're still gonna keep some slack in there so that we can have room for expanding and contracting and you can see how I have the galvanized pipe anchored down so that when I'm gonna outside working on it I can move it around without worry about damaging anything inside and here we are my son's giving me a hand we're kind of making the pipe a little neat clamping them together as they go for the long run across no from the hall bathroom all we oversee the garage area and again once this system is in use and also with the heat in the Attic these pipes will they will relax and they will set in place and they won't be all bunched up sticking up in the air like they are now and those are the pipes going over to the master bathroom you used to remember back at that backing I told you we chopped that piece of wood out we did and this is all it takes to connect the tub the shower valve up that's it and that right there is the going to be to toilet and the toilet pipe is usually six inches from the ground up to the center of the pipe and this is going to be the bathroom sink and this is the hall the bathroom in the hallway the shower tub shower valve again my name is Claude Tingler and thank you for joining me on my journey of plumbing I hope you liked the video if you did give it a thumbs up and become a subscriber and watch weekly uploads thank you

Channel: How to Plumbing

Views: 1,168,655

Keywords: pex pipe plumbing, pex pipe plumbing (the complete series), pex pipe plumbing system, plumbing pex pipe fittings, plumbing a house with pex pipe, re-plumbing house with pex pipe, pex pipe plumbing systems, water pex pipe plumbing, how to do pex pipe plumbing, pex plumbing, pex pipe and, is pex pipe plumbing safe, Pex pipe plumbing tools, plumbing a house iwth pex pipe, Plumbing iwth pex pipe diy tutorial part 2 of 2, pex plumbing installation

Id: t-2_-E-yTjI

Length: 114min 35sec (6875 seconds)

Published: Sun Mar 05 2017