How to Paint Cars with Aerosol Spray Cans

what is going on everybody today I'm going to show you how you can get a body shop quality finish using aerosol spray cans so what we are going to be repairing is this scratch on the fender of my Chrysler 200 so generally if you can catch your fingernail in a scratch it needs to be painted so the first thing we're going to do is take off as much trim as possible now you don't have to do this but the more you take off the better you can sand all of your edges and the better the job is going to turn out on this we're going to take off the bumper to access the headlight so we're gonna remove the headlight as well and mudflap at the bottom and push back to splash it a little bit once our panel is torn down we're going to start our repair so the first thing we're going to do is wash the entire panel we're working on down with some soap and water and dry it off to remove any dirt and water-based contaminants the next thing we're going to use is a degreaser this is a Chris also you want a solvent based wax and silicone remover that's going to take off any waxes or contaminants that the soap and water didn't remove the next thing we're going to do is apply some sanding paste to a wet gray nylon pad and scuff down the entire fender to get it ready for clear coat so what we're going to be doing is applying some base coat in the repair area where we'll be fixing the scratch and then clear coating the entire panel that's the proper way to do it and that's how they tend to do it in most body shops there are some exceptions where you blend the clear but generally it is an inferior repair any time you're blending the clear so to do this to body shop standards we're going to do the entire fender and you do want to be thorough this process on a fender like this should take somewhere around five minutes and you want to make sure you go over very well and pay a lot of attention to the edges because they tend to get neglected inside the wheel well near the bottom but at the same time don't be pressing too hard on those edges because you can burn right through them and then you have another paint repair on your hand the goal here is to have that fender looking matte at the end so you'll look at that door afterwards and you look at the fender the door look nice and shiny you'll see your reflection the fender will be dull and that is what we're going for once you're done you can rinse it off with some water or use some wet bags and make sure you remove all of the sanding paste and then we are ready to start our repair so we're going to take some 400 grit sandpaper on a sanding block here and you should start to see that scratch a little bit better and we're going to continue to go at it with this block will be changing directions coming at it from up and down from the side until that paint starts to sort of peel away and feather away so that could take a few different layers depends on how deep the scratch is this one here is not down to the metal so we're going to just keep going at it it's through the clear coat it's through the base coat and it's through about a bit of the primer so we're going to keep sanding until that scratch is feathered away and leveled out and keep in mind that this process is pretty similar across different videos I've done so if you look at different types of repairs could be dents or plastic repairs anything like that everything is pretty well similar once you get past the repair process so you can apply something from a different video and then continue on using aerosol primers and aerosol clear coats in place so if you want to look back at some of that have a look through those videos and they should still apply to most of what we're doing here you can see that the paint layers are starting to separate now ideally one about a half inch in between each layer to try and feather each one back now I've worked on a lot of these Chrysler's in my day and accomplishing that with these particular primers is next to impossible so don't beat yourself up too much on that but that's what to ideally will happen so now that we have our area is sort of ready for primer now we need to do what's known as back sanding a little bit and I also have a little tiny scratching to the top that I'm going to kind of work at to I'll show you in a sec but that's not going to need any primer so back sanding is basically we want to prime that ring but we want to make sure that our primers landing on only sanded surfaces because the primer is meant to Stinson to stick to 400 grit or coarser so somewhere between 400 and 240 but we're try and keep this as fine as we can so we're going to use 400 here and here you can see we have another little scratch here but it's more in the clear coat so I don't have to get too crazy with it we're going to stand it out a little bit once I learned that it will sand out of the clear I'm going to just leave it at that and we'll refine that scratch after we get primer on the other repair area now whenever I'm working with aerosol products what I like to do is take a piece of cardboard like this and we're going to cut a hole in it which may seem a little weird right now but just bear with me what we're going to do is apply our product through that hole what that's going to do is help us control where it lands a little bit better so this is the primer we're going to be using which is a spray Maxx primer it's a 2 K primer now the importance of 2 K products is that they have a hardener just like the bodyshop products do that is in speaking of primers and clear coats and some other products the base coat does not have to be a two-part base coat but everything else should have a hardener in it so that's just like anything you would mix up at a body shop and spray so once you activate it by pressing the cap in the bottom and shake it up real good you can see we can apply our primer now through that hole and we have a little bit more control of where it lands so it's not covering the entire fender and that was the whole point of this little hole so we're going to let it flash off about 5 minutes in between each coat so it should go from a shiny kind of wet look to a drier look and then you know it's ready for another code depending on how much primary you need this is a very minor repair so we only need a little bit here now that primer we just used was direct to metal but depending on the particular substrate you're priming over you need to check the text sheets of the product you're using make sure that it is compatible for that the next thing we're going to do is mask off this vehicle so we've let that flash off for about half an hour make sure the primers reasonably dry before you attempt to mask and I'm going to use a plastic here from 3m cut it out and apply tape to it it's a nice quick way of masking I know your resources might not be the same as mine so do what you can use some some regular vehicle masking paper if you want on the entire car whatever you got but make sure you cover the vehicle because the two-part clear especially will stick to everything the overspray will get on whatever's nearby so you want to do this in a well-ventilated area and make sure there's nothing that you really care about too close to this car that you're painting so the last thing we need to do before this is ready for paint is sand down our primer so we've just blocked it down with some 600 grit wet paper you can do this wet or dry it doesn't really make any difference since I'm going to paint booth here I'd like to keep the dust down to a minimum so what we're going to do is do some water paper here so we're going to refine all the scratches that are 400 scratches from a previous step using the 600 so change them from 400 to 600 by sanding it now you could go a little bit finer you could finish off those areas in 800 I'm trying to do this with the minimal amount of sand papers and sometimes 800 is a bit of a big jump from four and won't properly remove those scratches so we're going to go all around the outside and refine all of our 400 to six the next thing we're going to do is use some 1500 grit in the surrounding areas now my primer actually jumped a little bit higher than I wanted it to it landed above that style line where it wasn't actually sanded with any 400 grit paper now if I didn't remove that the primer from that area it could potentially lift when we went to apply our our base coat in the next step so you want to make sure any overspray is removed in any primer that's in the spot where it shouldn't be is off that panel so you knew that with some 1500 grit paper pretty quickly so we're going to wipe it down one more time remove all of that water and at this point here it is best to have a water-based cleaner to do a final wipe on your panel you can use the degreaser but sometimes they are a little bit aggressive and they can smooth out scratches and compromise adhesion a little bit so if you have that's all you have I'd say go for it but try to track down a water-based cleaner that might work a little bit better here so we are now ready to apply our first coat of base coat and you're going to see that I don't have the same control over these aerosol cans as I do on my gun so the first coat went on a little bit rough so we're going to just let that dry and then we'll apply our second and try and fix things up a bit it's nice to have a tack rag as well it'll just pick up little nibs and stuff in between base coat you can use this up until you apply your first coat of clear once you apply a coat of clear don't try and tack it so here's our base coat our second coat going orange can try to blend it out as well along the way as we're spraying we're going to fan it out just like we're using a gun and try to flick the base go down the panel a little bit we don't want to get it too close to the front edge of that fender or to the top of the fender where it lines up with the hood or especially near the back edge where it lines up with the door or it's going to throw the color off because even though this is color matched paint it is not a hundred percent the same color and if you need more information I do have some videos on how you successfully match color and why you need to blend so we're going to let each coat flash off about five minutes in between them and here's our last coat going on I did fight with splatter a bit so I brought it a little bit further down the panel because I I was trying to cover up a little bit of splatter so once I started cleaning off the nozzles in between Kota seemed to go away but you need to watch out for that in the last coat you kind of want to dust on like an effect coat where the metallics will land in one direction and everything looks pretty cool so we are ready for the clear coat this is the fun part this is the two-part clear again so just like the primer we got to push that button in there crack in the hardener so it mixes it all in and then give it a good shake we're going to give it one more attack here before we apply the clear coat and again we just let that flash off maybe about 10 minutes after the last coat make sure it's good and dry before you apply your clear coat if you apply it while still wets you'll probably see an instant problem here we have our trigger attached to our aerosol I like the trigger because it gives me a little bit more control makes it feel more like a paint gun and we're going to apply the clear just like in any of the videos I've done showing with a gun it's going to go on there wet it's kind of like spring hot wax you have to have a certain rhythm otherwise you can end up with dry spray so if you if you try to kind of go a little bit here a little bit there it's not going to work out it's going to have dry spray and it's not going to flow so the theory needs to flow you can only really explain that if you either watch a bunch of my clear coat videos or you spray it once for yourself the first coat went on pretty sweet we're going to need to apply about two to three coats depending on I guess how everything goes on if you anticipate you're gonna need to polish a lot it's generally advisable that you put on a third if you're in a really dusty area where you have a lot of dirt coming into the fender then you're likely going to want a third coat because you're going to be sanding a bunch of that clear off in the polishing steps now every clear is a little bit different and depending on the temperature and humidity flash times will vary so it's usually about five minutes unless you're using a rapid production clear then it's probably like two to three but you what you want to do is put your thumb into a wet area usually the tapes best not on the painted part and once it kind of gets sticky and the paint starts to pull fibers then it's time to apply the second coat so here is the second coat going on now what's going to be the same as the first we want to make sure everything goes on nice and wet spray the offsets first is the best practice try to do the inside the wheel wells and on the inside lips the fender and the front edge of the fender where the headlight would be and then work your way to the outside and try to get it on there wet and shiny looking so it's not going to float after it's usually just going to look that the way you spray it at once so if it doesn't look good coming out you probably need to put more on so there's a fine line between too much and not enough if you start the hammer down you'll end up with runs which you can polish but they are kind of a pain and I'm going to go ahead and apply a third coat of clear coat here now to is generally all you need I'm gonna go ahead and put this third one on just so we can see what it looks like again going on and I was having a lot of fun holding that little gun trigger but you can do that again just with the aerosol without that trigger but I think was like ten bucks and it makes controlling that can much much easier especially for guys like me that are used to spraying with a gun so keep that in mind but again this is the last coat last coats usually the most important because it's going to look exactly like that when you're done again you can polish out all the mistakes after but you want to try not to make any can make your life a lot easier on yourself alright so that is going to be it we're going to let this clear coat dry overnight now drying times depend on the product you're using if you're using the same ones as I am you can find the text sheets on the spray Maxx website and that gives you all the drawing times and whatnot so generally overnight is long enough to polish it clear the next day so I'm going to be removing a few dirt specks and such from the fender here in the next video if you want to stick around and check that out you can also check out other polishing videos I have you need to know how to take a run out which luckily we didn't have on this job now if you're wondering what the finish looks like we'll make sure you have lots of pictures to see that it really looks just like the factory door I mean that doesn't say a lot because these new cars the finish isn't that great to begin with but if you wanted something smoother you could definitely sand down that orange peel and polish it up in the next step but you want make sure you put that extra that third coat of clear on now if you were to do an entire vehicle you're probably there's I'm sure there's a few people they're wondering could I do this to my entire car I'd say you'd have a it would be expensive you'd probably you'd go through a ton of those aerosol cans in the process I guess you probably could do it but the clear you have a tough time getting that clear to lay down and you'd be polishing a lot afterwards so I mean I'm not going to tell you no but if you do do it make sure you send it to me and follow on Instagram a tree finish network check out the website refinish Network calm and follow me on Facebook somewhere this type of refinish that where you'll find it so that's going to be it for today thank you for watching and we will see you next time you

Channel: Refinish Network

Views: 2,260,080

Keywords: automotive repair, auto body, how to paint a car, diy, car paint, paint, refinish network, overspray, overhaulin

Id: nnILSQo_svI

Length: 16min 1sec (961 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 23 2016