This Paint Trick will Blow your Mind!

what's going on everyone and welcome back to another episode of paint society the channel where the learning doesn't stop when the video ends today i'm going to show you how to do a smart repair on this vehicle now just as a disclaimer it's always best to clear coat the whole entire panel in its entirety that way you have a good warranty well when you work in a body shop there's always going to be different types of repairs you're going to have to make whether you like it or not and it's cool to show you this little trick on this panel so let's get right into it now this quarter panel had a couple little dents and scratches that we fixed right here and we used a black primer now when we're assessing this car we have two body lines now usually i would like to pretty much come off of this body line and break it off since it's a shorter one but we're going to be using this one because we need a little bit more room and it wraps all the way around which can be a little bit tricky i'm starting off of a 400 grit on my primer i don't want to go too aggressive when doing a smart repair i rather take a little bit more time plus the repair i did here with the primer it's fairly smooth so i don't really need to get into it too hard so i'll take my 400 grit just use nx pattern to make sure that my primer is getting sanded evenly and i'll go ahead and tape up the areas that i don't want to sand and also on this gas lid right here we have a black and it's very easy for me to match so we don't need to take color into it so i'm ready to prep the rest of the panel i'm gonna get my three thirty seconds sander it's a finishing sander so it's gonna have much finer rotations and it's going to allow my paint to lay on there that much nicer i have my interface pad from eagle abrasives and then i have a k800 right here now the k800 is going to cut like at the cutting speed of a k600 but it's going to leave a 800 grit scratch okay so you can see how we use our 800 grit now we'll come back in the end and finish up some areas that are just a little bit shiny now this is where it helps to have a very good tool it's all on the prep or else when we go to blend in that line it's not going to work well at all so i have a hard interface pad eco abrasives and i have a k1000 i wouldn't go any finer than this and the reason why you want a hard surface is because we want to block this edge ever so slightly and we only want to block underneath this body line and what i mean by that is we're just letting the paper do the work we're just guiding it and we don't want to use too aggressive of a grit because the clear is not going to be able to fill it in and plus the fact this is where the two clears are going to transition together even at this edge right here i mean i know it looks silly but it's easier to blend off the edge than to just have an open blend so this might even only be a half of an inch but for the type of repair it is guys this is what you're going to need to do then i'll just take off the paper then i have like an interface pad here and i'll just use this to get the remaining in between we want to be extra careful we don't want to get a burn through on this edge if we do then we have to take the paint all the way up it defeats the whole purpose of what a smart repair is and it's really that easy and that quick now we want to be doing this on a customer car uh this is one of our loaner vehicles so we just wanted to make it look new again for our customers and make sure they're riding nice and clean so we have a degreaser here and before i go ahead and bring it into the booth i always like to degrease it you don't want any silicone on the painted area or anywhere near the area where you're burning in that will completely ruin what you're doing so make sure it's clean clean clean i'll clean this off and then i'll let it dry overnight and tomorrow i'll pick it back up then i'll just get my gray scuff pad and i'm just looking to kind of clean it off a little bit now back here in the shop the next day and we're gonna go take the opportunity to use some wax and grease remover and just clean it before we mask it off it's always a good idea to clean several times throughout the job we don't know whose dirty hands have been on here i don't know what it is about painted panels or prep panels but people just like to come and touch your stuff when you're not looking or even right in front of your face mostly mechanics that don't have any idea about what the effects of contamination are but uh we have it all cleaned up we'll start off by taping up our gas lid once again and we'll tape it up in the same fashion make sure you're using your wax and grease remover in this area the wheel arc that way your tape just sticks that much better doesn't come off while you're painting that's not good to have so the key to pulling off this is having some soft edge foam masking tape now you can use regular tape and fold it back but this just works so much more consistently i went ahead with a 13 millimeter i prefer the smaller masking tape for this and this is just what it looks like in a box a whole bunch on a roll and it's really just that thin so the first place i'll use it is here in the door jamb where we want to leave like a nice soft edge essentially we're doing the same thing here that we're doing on the body line is we're creating a soft transition for our clear coat to meet so you really need to pay attention right now to how i'm masking it because this will make or break a job essentially we're going to start off with the last piece of masking tape that will be on the car when we're all done so we're going to start off with having that about three or four inches above where our break off line is okay so do you see this right here this is our last piece of tape that will be on the car that our plastic will be stuck to so let's put some plastic over the car now all right so we masked it up like any other project but now we're going to kind of pretty much cut along the line so we're going to be careful when we cut along this line we don't want to dig in too much just enough to cut the plastic we have a brand new razor blade here and then we'll go ahead along our door seam along the tape that we back mask in our quarter and then we'll just go ahead and taper up all right so the next step is we're gonna overlap with tape this is inch and a quarter now this is going to come in handy later on we're going to take our tape and fold it over that way we have an edge that's easy to peel and like once clear gets all over this it's going to be too tough so we're good to go right there we're going to do one more and on this one we're going to bring it just a touch above that body line just a touch now if we look closely we can see we still have a little glossy area so we're going to refine it just a little bit more right before we put the foam tape and once more that's with our 1000 grit right at the edge we want to make sure we have adhesion all the way to the point where the clear coat stops and there we have it the crispier the edge the smoother the cleaner the end job now once more i'm going to clean you're going to notice i'm cleaning before i put my foam edge i don't want the cleaner to absorb into that foam tape since it's somewhat porous now for the last step our foam tape it has a small area that has adhesive on it so we want to put that adhesive right at the edge and we want this edge the bottom edge to be right between where the clear coat is and right between where the shiny part is do yourself a favor when using this tape do not stretch it if you stretch it it's going to pull off then make sure it's on there nice and good now the last tip i'm going to give you for this actual foam tape is on the edges it's going to want to come off so tape it to the car you don't want to start coming off once you're painting and we are totally set up if you take a look at it we don't see any of that clear coat edge right where it's shiny and this is exactly what we want so getting into the job we can use any gun but having more of a detail or a mini gun is going to be a little bit better for the job it's going to control and contain that over spray much better because we don't want that spray to go too far we want to control what we're doing so segola sent over their mini extreme i'm really excited to try it so let's go ahead and unbox it and looks like it's made from spain so i've never been there but if you're from spain and you're watching go ahead and leave a comment and here it is it is a mini gun it is probably on the bigger side of the mini gun which is good because i have kind of chunky hands but uh there it is it's right there it comes with a little small cup as well which is good doesn't look like it gets in the way too much taking a look at it it comes with a 1.3 well i asked for a 1.3 like i tell you guys that's a good general tip size to have you're going to have your fluid knob here and i'll start wide open by backing it up pulling the trigger turning it in until it stops i know i'm wide open and the fan we have at wide open for now have your air inlet which you keep wide open i have a regulator ready to go and i'm using the pps system so i went ahead and got the s5 adapter that fits this particular paint gun this is the pps 2.0 system put our air cap on and let's head into the booth now with the car in the booth we're getting ready to spray now if you look at we have our black primer area we do have a little burn through it's not down the metal it's just down to primer and if we had more room i'd probably seal it but we really need to contain our paint as good as we can we need to keep it below this line right here any paint that goes above this line what can cause issues with our transition into our clear coat now we want to keep our pressure really low i don't really look at the number i look at what the paint is doing i'm going to dial in my fluid a little bit i don't want too much fluid coming out and i'm just going to brush it on very lightly i'm just triggering it i'm not full trigger just a little bit okay air is coming out now if i pull a little bit more paint comes out you might say wow i'm going over it a lot but barely any paint is coming out let's let this flash for a good five to ten minutes now our second coat's gonna be very similar just very very light passes i'm gonna leave it at that second coat done now for my third and final coat i'm going to kind of come a little bit further but still keep it low you always say debt coverage plus one coat and that's it leave it alone it looks good we don't need to mess with it anymore we let this sit for a good half hour or so and i have a tack rag in well you see how smooth it is right i actually used an extra slow reducer in the paint that's extra slow and the finish is just beautiful clear hits it it's going to look like glass so the first coat i'm going to bring it up here i'm not going to go over the line the second coat i'll bring it all the way to the top [Music] and in real time after that first coat laid on super nice really slick really smooth ah you see how i didn't take it up i didn't take it over yet that's what we want we don't want to build up this edge let's let this flash for a good five minutes on this second coat now i'm gonna start from the bottom i'm gonna move all the way up top i'm gonna completely overlap this foam tape as soon as i'm done you're going to see me pull off the tape and it should reveal a nice clean edge so now here's where all that taping that we did prior is gonna really pay off now remember how we fold it over the edge look how easy it is one more time take a look at how beautiful our edges all we have to do now is buff it when it's all dry now i do not suggest using a blender on that edge that edge is very sensitive if you use a blender on that edge it's going to take down all your clear coat it's going to drip it off and it's very very tough so leave it alone you're going to probably buff it anyways you know leave it alone it already looks you've already gotten to this point all right like i said black is one of the easiest to pull off believe it or not so we'll let this dry and then we'll assess what it looks like when it's all cured so we let it dry overnight we'll go ahead and unmask it and then we'll get just a light buff going and this one will be good to go so you want to be very very very fine with this i'm going to go over this with a piece of 3000 grit right on the edge barely just to smooth out any sort of bumpiness although it is pretty smooth already we don't need to spend too much time on it just let the paper do the work it's going to take away any of that little overspray here on the edge and any sort of crustiness like i said it's really smooth already and you don't want to be standing on this too much because remember this is where your transition is this is where the clear is the most thinnest even on a regular vehicle without a burning there's not a lot of clear that's on the edges that's all we're going to do right there now all we're going to do is take our little milwaukee buffer got to use the right tool for the job and we're just going to go over it with some compound [Music] then we'll use some wax and grease remover this is going to remove any of those fillers that are in the compound give us an idea of what it's really going to look like after it's been through the car wash after it's been out in the sun to be really buffeted enough and the way we find that out is by using this astro sunlight and this will show you what it's going to look like outside now if i have any marks that are still uh you know kind of dull i want to go over it again but it looks like it's good we're going to move on to polishing stage now and for the polishing stage we're going to treat this like it's a whole panel this is a little bit dull from being in the sun for many years and we just want to make sure to transition between the two is seamless then we'll go over it with our fine swirl remover step number three in the 3m process to perfect it process and this is just going to make everything look really really vibrant and take away any of those marring scratches or anything like that we'll give it a final wipe down and take a look at our work now we can go ahead with the reinstallation of our taillight we'll go ahead and pop on our bumper cover and our reflectors just clip in well that's going to wrap things up for this project now guys just a reminder the best way to finish a panel is to clear coat it all the way to where the panel ends for a good factory warranty now i will tell you though working in a body shop you're going to have to do some things that are a little bit different it's good to have the knowledge to be able to pull off jobs just like this so watch the video a couple times apply the knowledge maybe try it on something else guys if you want to support the channel go ahead and head down to the link right here if you want to get some merchandise and hey in the meantime this is brian from paint society reminding you don't overthink it it's just paint i'll see you guys on the next one let's check it out [Music] [Music] [Music] you

Channel: Paint Society

Views: 415,796

Rating: 4.9201303 out of 5

Keywords: paint, repair, smart, collosion, fix, new, accident, iwata, sata, sagola, tape, mask, garage, diy, how to

Id: clnBp4jzuWg

Length: 20min 27sec (1227 seconds)

Published: Sat May 15 2021