Fixing Car Dents in your Garage!

[Music] what's going on everyone and welcome back to another episode of paint society the channel where learning doesn't stop when the video ends today we're going to work the metal on these dents fill them and then primer them so let's get started so we can see in our project honda civic that we got some pretty gnarly dents in the middle of the door right here which we're gonna go ahead and take care of now to do that we have some goodies from denfix that going to help us work that metal and get it ready for bondo this is the ultra ding massager kit that's going to help me work that metal and get it ready for filler it's got an arrangement of tools that we'll be going over to show you how they work we also have a dead blow hammer with an arrangement of tips to work those high spots now when we open up the kit we have an arrangement of different dent gluing tabs and those dent gluing tabs will hook up to one of these tools so we can pull those dents out but first let's plug in that hot glue gun to start heating it up while that gun is heating up it's very important to have a clean panel so we'll use some pre-painting prep and go ahead and get any wax or grease or anything that's sitting on the panel that will not allow our glue to stick let's get that all off so to better identify the dents we're going to take 800 grit and that's going to expose all of our dents and the low spots and where they're at now just by using that 800 we can see we have a low spot a low spot a low spot and a couple other small ones that we don't need to worry about we're going to focus on these right here so the whole idea here is to work the metal to pull the metal out using a dent massager to get as close as we can to being flush with the rest of the surface and then we can sand it down we can use our bondo from there we could really just use a whole bunch of bondo on top of these dents and yeah we could eventually get them straight but then we have an excess amount of bondo filled up and well that can crack and that's not really the proper way to do repair over dents like this so our first stent we're going to work is this big one right there so when looking at the size tabs i don't want a tab that's actually bigger than the dent itself i'm on it slightly smaller than the dent itself that way i can pull from within rather than over pulling it and making a bigger dent so we loaded in our hot glue and we're going to do just a small amount in the middle and stick it right on in the meantime let's go ahead and tack the other little dents we have so we have a small one right here so we'll use our little tab and we'll put our tab right there and in this area we have another small little dent that we're going to go ahead and put our tab right on so that's the majority of the area i want to work now we have a couple little small tiny tiny tiny things here and there and it's okay for filler to go over those that's not going to be a problem so we don't want to work those areas we're going to let this set up for about a good 10 minutes i really want that glue to dry so when we go to pull it we have maximum strength in the meantime i'm going to set up my dead blow hammer to have the rubber attachment on one side simply just screws right in so now i have the option i have flat on one side and i have a little bit more rounded on the other side and the cool thing is it's got a lot of flexibility in it and a glue scraper on the other side so we have three options when it comes to pulling on the dents now this is going to be for a little bit more bigger dents more of an impact you want to jar it out then we have a little bit more of a massager which i'll show you here in a moment and if you want to work it by hand you can go ahead and just link it right up and give it a pull manually so it's been 10 minutes and we're going to link up our tool to our tab and it just simply fits on there and then we can adjust it by moving in our knob all right that's gonna put a little bit of tension all right we want it so that these two plates are sitting against the actual uh door itself so we can see we have the connection between the plates and the metal that's a good thing so all we really want to do with this is just kind of pull it work the metal a little bit we don't want to over pull it if we dial in a little bit closer we can see that that it pulled and then well it disconnected there which is probably a good thing now the kit comes with a dent release agent so we'll go ahead and spray that on and with that we significantly have lessened the dent and we've made it pretty flat we can tell by when we go over it and sand it so by sanding it now we'll be able to tell that we're actually flush with the surface and that that dent now is not low anymore because it's evidence of it taking the sanding okay it still won't be a hundred percent but this is very acceptable for just a little skim coat of filler so for this bigger dent we're going to be using our slide hammer attachment and the reason why is i want to apply a little bit more force just by pulling so i have that leverage now i'm actually not going to slide with it i'm actually going to use this to pull and use my dead blow hammer to hit down on the highs now what is a high well as i start to pull okay we want to knock down on the ridge around the dent and that's going to relieve pressure to help pull this out a little bit more it goes something kind of just like this then to fine tune it i can use my hand grip give it a little bit more pull and then we'll go ahead and release the dent at this point i'll sand it and i'll see where my low spot is now so the dent is still there but it's a little bit smaller we minimize it to just a small tiny area so i'll clean once again and i'll apply a much smaller pooling tab to the dented area now and while this one's drying i'll use my hand grip and go ahead and do the same thing so once this is dry we're going to use our slide hammer action just kind of pop that dent out a little bit and when we remove the glue let's check out our work and as i run my hand over the surface i feel like we have a little bit of a high spot but that's not a problem high spots in this area we could have overpooled a little bit so we're going to go ahead and tap it down so there's a variety of different tools we can use for this but i'm going to choose a more rounded off blunt one that way i can kind of take that bigger area and tap it down locate my high spot and just give it some taps still have one little low spot right here which i'll be using a more square tab to pull this one out and once that's set up i'll hook up my tool and i'll give this one a little bit of a massage a little bit of a pull to get that dent out once more i'll sand and i am happy with this we have a couple tiny tiny low spots that filler can take care of uh no problem that i'm not going to concern myself with pulling out any further and if i run some wax and grease remover over i can see we pulled out the depth of the actual dent although it might remain a little bit wavy that's fine because we're going to use our filler we're not looking to do a true paintless dent removal here we're just looking to get that dent to the surface so we can fill it with minimal body filler so a good all-in-one kit to get those dents pooled but we're not going to say goodbye get to the dead blow hammer and these tappers we might need them if we have any more high spots when we do the filler so we're getting to the point where we're ready to apply our body filler now newer age body fillers can go directly over sanded oem clear coat well this particular one says it wants metal fiberglass and that's just what we're gonna do and plus i wouldn't trust putting any type of filler over paint this old anyways it could just flake right off if it's already peeling so we're going to take down some metal the area in which the dents that we're working this area right here and then we'll apply our body filler [Music] all right so that was the eastwood sct now this is a 40 grit on here and you don't need to use the sct but it doesn't make quick work and what i like is it clumps up the paint and sends it to the ground it's not like a big dust bowl in here which is kind of cool you can use by hand 36 grit 40 grit to get it down it will take a little bit longer i wouldn't suggest chemically stripping it if you want to minimize it to one area so we have good clean metal here and all we need to do is uh use our pre-painting prep just to clean it up a little bit and we're pretty much ready to um lay down some body filler and we're gonna work this area right here now although we did have a dent here here here and here we're gonna swipe the whole entire area to make sure it's nice and smooth now the idea was to grind or paint down beyond where our dents were that way our bondo can stay within the constraints of the actual metal so before i spread that filler i want to feather these areas you can kind of feel them and if you just go ahead and prime over this you're going to have like a line so we're going to use 120. you can use between 120 and 180 and you're going to put on a block so it can kind of smooth it out much better see how much smoother that is and we're using a hard block one of my buddies is making them and this is kind of just a prototype we're testing out but what you want is something that's going to cut it down and it's not going to kind of float over it you want to cut it quick that way you don't have to worry about any line showing up here so as i go over the surface with the block i can feel it's a little bit high here so i'm going to use some guide coat so i'll just go over my blocks and my first areas that show up that are sanded are high so we'll go ahead and knock those down reapply feels much better these tiny areas are low spots that the body filler can pick up since they're so minimal so we have two different types of fillers we can use a more premium body filler for our bigger dents and a glazing putty for our small dents or skim coats pinholes things like that and in a pinch we can use a cardboard piece from a box if we need to although it's not recommended because it is porous and can introduce pinholes into our filler so it's always recommended to get a mixing sheet palette that way you don't have any sort of pinholes being introduced into your filler for now this will work make sure you have a mixing stick and try to mix it up as best you can so the resins and the filler can mix it properly when using your hardener i usually mix about half of a line the amount of hardener there is so instead of going all the way across i'll use just about half now once your filler is mixed it should be one color just like this now we don't have a lot of time to work i like to get my filler on and then i'll spread it you always want to go ahead and get it on vertically and then we'll spread it with the direction of the panel so you can see i'm putting it on vertically just to get it on and i'm not just limiting myself to just where the dent was i'm going to work my whole panel and if i get any on the clear coat it's not a big deal now before it dries you want to go around with your finger and this is going to help feather in that edge so you don't have to sand it so roughly and leave a line you can see what that looks like now don't worry too much about this ridge going down the middle just leave it this actually looks pretty flat i think we did pretty good and we can sand all this away so that's been setting up for about five minutes and we have a stage here that's called the green stage and that means it's before it's totally dry you can actually sand it much easier kind of chunks up we're going to see if it's ready for the green stage now if we take a look do you see how it's still kind of stringy let's give it another minute or so and it should sand a little bit easier that way we can shape it and we don't have to be here all day sanding and making a big mess so just a few moments later and i can tell that it's ready to go we don't want it to rip but you see how the particles are much finer and a little bit more chunky this is the stage in which we can just knock down those ridges much easier by going over it with 80 grit okay so what we've just done here is we've cut our time in half and we've actually shaped it and running my hand over it actually feels pretty good let's let this set up for about maybe 10 15 more minutes let it fully harden and cure and then we'll be able to get into the stages where we refine it from 80 which is right here to 180 to 220 320 that type of thing and get it ready for primer so it's been set up for about a good 10-15 minutes and i got 120 grit on here right now you can bounce between 120 or 180 to start off after 80 grit and i'm just gonna go ahead and use my big block and get the surface nice and flat i like this block because it covers a whole area rather than small area you want to use the size of the block of the area you're working want to try to go in an x pattern as much as we can to level out the surface evenly and for your edges where the filler is feathering into the rest of the paint we can use our smaller block [Applause] from this point we need to start to refine and find out where our little defects are in the body filler so once again we'll use our guide coat and this pretty much lands just as dust so we'll let this set up for a few moments and now we're kicking it up to 220 i like to work in increments of about a hundred and once it's all sanded we can tell we have very very minor areas that are just a touch low like barely so we'll use a swipe of some of our glazing putty to make sure those are nice and smooth and for our glaze we really don't need a whole lot and we'll mix it up just the same way and we're going to apply it to our same area where we have those low spots now generally i never want to put glaze over anything that is less than a 180 grit scratch and that should be fine we don't need to go around the exterior because this is a very thin coat and we'll wait till it's completely dry we're not going to worry about the green stage it just doesn't need it and so we're gonna get it ready for primer now so one last spray of our guide coat so i have my small block here in 320 and i want to refine the filler just a bit before the primer hits it so it doesn't shrink into a coarse sand scratch if we don't refine the filler then when the primer actually dries you're going to see these little scratches all over so if it's shrinking into a 320 scratch well you're not really going to be able to see that and it's going to be able to sand right away once you prepare for paint and the last thing i'm going to take is a maroon scuff pad and sand all those edges that are outside of those 320 scratches just so the primer has something to stick to in case it falls outside of the area i'm working on and the way we can check to see if it's flat before we go ahead and primer it is we'll take some wax and grease remover and similar to what we did in the beginning of the video is we're going to just take a look at it from the side and if it looks like it's nice and even then well most likely it is going to be in primer and looking at it from here i think we did a pretty good job you can see that the filler stayed in only the small low low spots and with the help of pulling those dents out initially we're only able well we only had to do one actual swipe of the body filler and you can see that the glaze barely took in some areas as we sanded down the actual filler it leveled off even more and we were able to take care of those low spots so you know just a good step to take that glaze just in case it kind of helps as a extra step to get things nice and level i think we're ready to go [Music] so we're ready to prime and as you can see i did not bring my tape anywhere close to where i'll be priming you never should primer up to a tape line that will leave a hard edge that you just can't get rid of so give yourself about maybe six inches around the whole entire repair area for your primer to lay down and we're gonna be using first a self etching primer and this is gonna be to protect the metal now you don't need to build this up you just need to get a good couple coats on there light coats and that will seal the metal off and three to four minutes later it's okay if it's a little bit transparent the metal is coated and it's protected allow this to dry for a good 30 minutes before we put our 2k urethane primer on top so we let it dry for 30 minutes so now we're going to be using a primer that's two part it's got a catalyst just like you would have in a spray gun so a much heavier duty primer that's going to give you some build it's got that red cap at the top and you're gonna puncture the bottom now you have to do this on a hard surface in order to puncture so i always choose the ground to do it on and once you hear that snap you're good to go it's released the hardener into the rest of the primer give it a shake for a good couple minutes now this will last you between today and maybe three or four days now pump some people have gotten over let's say a week if they kept it in the cabinet but depending on your temperature it will eventually harden up but it is a good alternative to not having a spray gun and we'll apply our first coat within our etching primer area allow that to flash for a good five to ten minutes we'll follow up with our second coat and finally our third coat now right after we spray our third coat we can see how level the surface looks while the primer is still somewhat glossy now when it dries it'll dry to a very matte finish we'll allow this to dry for a good amount of time and to give it enough time i would say at least one to two days before sanding it and this is going to allow the primer to shrink all primers do shrink a little bit so you want it to shrink before you sand it that way it doesn't shrink once you've painted it so that's gonna do it for this video i hope you guys learned a lot from the dent massager to working that metal spreading some bondo and getting that bondo ready for the primer that we have right here i hope you learned something and guys this is brian from paint society reminding you don't overthink it it's just paint i'll see you guys on the next one you

Channel: Paint Society

Views: 217,056

Keywords: dent, dent fix, repair, collosion, collision, how to, how, diy, do it yourself, paint, project, autobody, garage, home, new, sata, iwata, sand, bondo

Id: n6t4iQxvKzU

Length: 21min 6sec (1266 seconds)

Published: Thu Feb 18 2021