How to Repair Rust on Your Car Without Welding. Rust Removal

hey guys matt from horse so today i'm showing you how you can remove and repair rust on your car it's quite common to get rust on lower portions of the car around wheel arches normally happens when you're driving the car a stone shoots up and chips actual paint revealing the bare metal and then when there's no protection on the metal it starts to rust straight away so it's always a good idea to have some paint mixed up the same color as your car anytime you see any stone chips right little bits of rust you can go along and touch them in before the spread and get any worse because if you don't you'll end up with this disaster so roast repair takes four easy steps one remove the rust juice and sandpaper two fill the area with body filler tree sand down the body filler to suit the body of your car four paint the area to stop it from rusting again in the future so i'm going to show you how you can repair the rust stop it from spreading it's going to be quite inexpensive as well and you can do it yourself there's a few items we're going to need primer and paint but not that's too expensive and you're going to go from this to this okay so i'm going to start this process off with 40 grit sandpaper just in case you don't know the grits 40 grit probably one of the roughest grits the further higher up you go on grit the more finer and the less abrasive the sandpaper is also in the sandpaper wrapped in a sanding block which will make sure we sand the surface evenly because we're sanding make sure you have your dust mask on the idea here is to sand away all the rust we don't want to go through all this work for the rust to bubble back up in a couple of weeks time also we want to get down to the bare metal because it'll give the body filler the best chance of sticking to the panel so be sure to take your time and remove every single speck of rust and get it right down to the bare metal okay so we completely sanded away all the rust we're back to nice good solid metal there now there is this piece of foam here now which is obviously the reason that the metal rotted out it was catching the moisture catching all the water probably coming around from the roof and that was the reason why it rotted this area out as for this big hole that's been left behind where the metal away we're going to use this body patch which will slide up underneath and bend it into shape that way and make it strong again enough to hold the body filler so we've got the outside rust free but probably the back of this fender odds are is very rusty as well so we're going to have to treat that in some way before we move on to the next step okay so i brought the car in and some shelters are starting to rain now i'm just going to jack the car up remove the wheel remove the inner liner so we can get access to the back of the fender as i suspected the back was as rusty as the front so we're giving it the same treatment with some 40 grit sandpaper removing all the rust onto our down to bare metal now we've got all the back up up here and all the rust all removed we're going to now etch prime it and then we're going to stone guard protect it that will stop the rust to come back through again and any rocks or stones that that fly up will bounce off this stone guard protect it's definitely awkward painting backwards like this through the fender but it's definitely a step that's worth it and by using the self-etching primer we know that we've treated the bare metal properly so if the two coats of etched primer have now dried it's time to move on to the stone chip the benefits of used in stone chip are that it's anti-corrosion and once the paint is fully dried it leaves a hard film on the panel which helps gravel and raw debris bounce away so we're on to the next step which is the body filling step now we're going to be mixing our fiberglass fillers if you're mixing this up you don't want to mix it on a absorbent surface you want to mix in something like a an oil tile or maybe an old metal sign something that won't absorb the fillers or hold water a good rule of thumb when you're mixing the ratio for body fillers is a golf ball size amount of filler to a pea-sized amount of hardener and also when i mix it i pick it up and lay it down and pick it up and lay it down you don't want to stir the body fillers as this will introduce air bubbles into the mix also when it's properly mixed it should be one uniform color the goal when we're spreading out the body fillers is to make sure that we fill in the void that was left behind where the rust outweigh the metal at this stage we're not worried about making it look too pretty we're just trying to make the surface as flat as possible and try and keep to the contour and shape of the metal and the step a lot of people forget is to clean your fillers card and your mixing panel down with some tenors as if you try and remove a layer to damage the card okay so it's been about 15 to 20 minutes and now the body filler is hard we're going to be creating a lot of dust now because we're going to be sanding so you want to get your dust mask on we're going to be selling this with 80 grit sandpaper and as always we'll be using our sanding block as well so as i said i'm using a good sample for again fiberglass fitter is probably one of the hardest fillers to sand but all you can do is take your time and make sure that you don't make the repair area any bigger than it needs to be okay so now we're moving on to the lightweight body filler this filler is a lot easier to sand than the previous filler the same rule applies for mixing a golf ball-sized amount of filler and a pea-sized motor hardener and again mixing it up and flatten it down until it's one complete uniform colour it's quite important to blow away the dust between each step we'd only agreed getting into this fine filler with this filler we're going to spend a lot more time getting the shape right it's a lot easier to spread than the fiberglass fillers and also the more time we spend now getting the shape right the less sanding will have to do when we start to sand also we'll remember that we don't want to make the repair area any bigger than it needs to be my advice when you're laying body filler for the first time is to start off with a small mix and you can always add more on as you go along rather than adding in lots of filler at the start and just making a big mess because of the way we laid out the fillers this should be really easy to sand now okay so it's been about 15 to 20 minutes and our body filler is now dry we're going to try and sand it to mimic the actual shape of the panel again using our 80 grit sandpaper i'm sanding this lightweight filler with two different grits of sandpaper 80 grit first and then 180 grit to remove the scratches later i'm also making sure to sand in alternating directions until the filler covered section is level and smooth okay so we just finished with the lightweight filler now we're going to ground filling out the pinholes with some 1k stopper it's just a matter of putting one cord over the area and it'll fill in any little imperfections the great thing about this 1k stopper is you can use it straight from the tube it's also very quick drying this will probably dry in about five minutes whereas if we'd used hardener with normal fillers it probably would have taken 25 minutes or half an hour to dry so that's why it's ideal for little last minute touch-ups for sanding this one case stuff i'm using 180 grit sandpaper at first i'll be using a sanding block but i always like to go back over the area again by hand just to make sure it's feathered in correctly okay now that we're moving on to the next step which is the painting process i've made sure to sweep the floor and make sure there's no dust on the car it's critical that we don't get any dust into our paintwork we're trying to keep this area that we're going to prime as small as possible so i'm going to go about an inch above where we sanded a trick i like to do is fold the masking tape back on itself that way when we pull it off after we've primed it doesn't leave a real hard edge that we'll have to try and sand away just grab the tape fold it over once and then apply it i'm just going to use a little bit of 400 to prepare the area for primer then you're going to mask up the area so we don't get any overspray on the rest of the car making sure not to forget to cover the wheel as it's one of the worst places for dirt to shoot out when you start planting [Applause] okay so we got all masked up for primer we've got our masking tape turned back so we get a nice soft edge on the primer this is the primer we're going to use it's a high build primer high build means that it's a ticker primer so it'll hide any scratches or imperfections that's in the body work and we're going spraying now as well so we need to put on a respirator i'm just wiping down the panel with a tack rag this removes all particles of dust and fibers from my clothes that would have landed on the panel that'll give us a good clean surface ready for coating we're just giving the primer a good shake this will ensure that it sprays out in a smooth pattern so this is the first quarter primer i'm putting on making sure to go extremely light and not get any runs in the paint if you're new to spraying with aerosols i would suggest practicing on a piece of carpet before you spray on the panel not to forget to shake up the can again for the second coat this time i'm going to be going a lot heavier making sure to cover any scratches that i can see in the paintwork okay so the primer went on really nice i'm really happy with the coverage there's no scratches or imperfections shown through the primer so now we're going to move on to the wet sander okay so the primer is now dry you could at this point bring the car to a body shop and get them to paint the fender for you but i've got the paint mixed up to suit the color of the car i'm going to show you how you can blend this wing in and make the paint work seamless that you wouldn't even know i've been repaired so we're using 800 grit sandpaper for this we're going to be using our sander block as well this is going to be a wet sand so we're going to be using a small amount of water as well the most important thing here is that we apply even pressure when we're sanding and also the feathered edge where the primer meets the original paint should be super smooth and it shouldn't feel like there's any transition and also we want to be sanding past the primer about two inches onto the original paint so to prepare for the blend i'm using a bit of scotch brite this will allow us to scuff up the panel without putting too many aggressive scratches in it so when we base coat and clear cut over these fine little scratches won't show true allowing the join between the new paint and the old paint to be seamless and invisible this base coat is probably going to take about three quarts to get full coverage with a metallic paint like this the paint will seem really transparent when you start to paint it first but it's just a matter of putting on a couple of heavy coats until you get full coverage over the primer the primer being a lighter color as well will make it that more much more difficult to cover okay so now we're on to the second coat i'm making sure to keep the can moving and not staying in one spot too long with the base coat it can be really tempting try and get full coverage straight away but you have to have patience and look the layers slowly now the two previous coats have dried and i wanted a third coat now i'm making sure that the paint is covering the primer fully and that there's no light spots or dark spots but also remember not to go too heavy with the paint as it can darken the shade more okay so it's been about 15 or 20 minutes since we sprayed the last coat of base coat it's now fully cured it's quite easy to tell when it's fully cured as it'll have a real matte finish okay so we've got the base coat on the trick or base coat is not to put on too many coats the more cuts you put on the darker it'll get especially with a metallic that's why if you think you're getting near the colour of the vehicle stop if you've got full coverage now we're going to put on the clear cut okay so the trick with the blend is we want to keep the can tilted at an angle so we're not shooting the paint up the panel we want to keep the blend to this area we don't want to go any higher if we put masking tape along here try and contain the blend no matter what you do you'd see the join this way the join should be pretty much invisible we'll have to come back after a couple of days lightly wet sand it down with 2000 grit sandpaper but you shouldn't be able to see the transition between the old and new paint okay so it goes without saying that because we're spraying clear coat now it's very important to have your spare on as this stuff can be quite dangerous for the first coat i'm contained it to the edge of the fender i'm not going that far up the more coats i put in the further up i'll go now for the second caught i'm going up a little bit further and now in the third cut i'm trying to get two things a nice deep shine and a light blend between the new and the all clear coat to make it easier for standard and buffing the clear coat went on really nice we have this halo around the edge of the clear coat where we blend it into the original panel but i'm going to bring this car back after a couple of days and sand this down with 2000 grit sandpaper and buff the entire fender and the blend should be pretty much invisible okay so it's been a couple of days the clear coat is now fully cured you can polish this clear coat after 24 hours but i said i'd wait for a couple of days just be on the safe side okay so the first thing we're going to do is get some soapy water and a microfiber towel and we're going to clean down the fender entirely to make sure there's no grit that can get into the sanding process if you've ever seen deep swirls on someone's car on a sunny day this is from the washing of the car where the car has been dirty and i said grit on it and when the car is washed it just scratches up the surface that's what we're trying to avoid here by cleaning down the panel first the only sandpaper we're going to need for this process is 2000 grit sandpaper and we're going to wrap it in a sponge or a piece of foam just so we can sand the surface evenly then we're going to spray it down with our water the area we blended feels rough to the touch so i'm going to start sanding that area until it feels really smooth i'm being careful with the fresh clear coat here not to stand too long in one area and also on the body lines where it'd be a lot easier to sand right through the clear coat now we're giving it a wipe down again with our microfiber towel as we don't want the slurry from the sanding process to be moved on to when we start to buff okay now that we sanded with the 2000 grit sandpaper you should be able to feel the transition between the new or the old clear coat before it was a rough transition now it's super smooth so now we can move on to the compound stage okay so you could do this next step by hand but i would strongly recommend getting a buffer or a polish machine to speed the process up this is just a regular grade compound that i'll be using to buff the area okay so i like to put the compound on the buffer first and then dab it onto the pan in different areas this allows an even film of compound over the panel before we start to buff because this clear coat is quite fresh i'm starting off with a buff on a low speed i'm just taking my time i'm making sure to keep the buffer moving not to burn the clear coat by staying in one spot too long you can also spray some water on the surface which will help avoid this i'm making sure to buff the door as well that way there is no big difference between the door and defender and as we give it one last wipe down with our microfiber towel we can see the nice shine starting to come up and our blend looks invisible okay guys so check out the final results no more rust we blend in the click on the base coat so you can't even see the blend we've treated the back of the panel as well so it's not going to rust back through if you remember what this was like before it's a huge improvement and we didn't spend a lot of money to achieve this either and this is something you could do at home yourself without doing any welding or having any special tools i really hope you guys enjoyed the video if you have any questions send me a dm and i'll see you in the next video thanks for watching you

Channel: Mad4Motors

Views: 6,254,333

Keywords: Rust, Rust removal, how to repair rust, fix rust, mad4motors, chrisfix, bondo, paint car, treat rust

Id: GyfkM5Q8JbU

Length: 15min 3sec (903 seconds)

Published: Tue Jan 21 2020