My new favorite 3D Printer! The Voron 2.4 Build Experience

this is my voron 2.4 and it is a fantastic 3d printer in fact i like it so much that i've not really worked on it ever since i did the live build series i've not put any panels on i've not put the nice decorative skirting on this is pretty much as i've built it because i've just been using it for the first time in i think years i've actually enjoyed using tweaking and just printing with a 3d printer because this does a couple of things better differently that you know another in the three clone would never be able to do so first of all it is fast let me just demonstrate with a move at half speed that is how fast the x-axis is and if you do the same for the z-axis that is also half speed i have tuned down the speeds on this printer because i wanted a bit more reliability with full speeds at 1 000 millimeters per second and 20 000 millimeters per second squared accelerations it was kind of losing steps here and there um so this is now running at five hundred millimeters a second and ten thousand millimeters per second squared accelerations uh which is one g and that is still faster than pretty much any other printer out there uh it prints incredibly fast the way that it's built is super clean like you can see the you know the wiring is all routed in drag chains properly nothing's dangling around all the components are reasonably high quality but that's something that you can decide so in my case i decided to build it with the formbot kit but of course you can source this yourself and use whichever components you want now this is the warren 2.4 in the 300 millimeter size which means it's a 300 millimeter cube for build volume and it looks like a rather large printer but if we compare it to a prusa mark 3 which conveniently happens to be sitting right here you can see that you know in the height as soon as you put a spool in here spool goes on the back with the boron the prusa is actually taller then width wise if you have like wires sticking out and stuff the width is about the same and then for depth the push actually takes up more desk space because you have the bed that moves along the entire y-axis back and forth so it looks big but it's not actually that like space consuming it's it doesn't take up that much desk space which is pretty good actually there are a couple of really well done mechanical details which we'll get to in a second um but i guess just overall i you know this is a very well done machine and that is even more impressive considering that uh the voron isn't like a oh the strike chain's open why is this traction open the forum isn't a commercial project it's just a group of engineers i guess that got together and we're like hey we want to build something that is kind of crazy but can do all the things you would want a 3d printer to do and they're not making any money off of it you can't actually buy a voron even the kit that i bought is not like an official voron kit it's just you know somebody or some company sourcing all the parts that you might need the plans are all free they're open source which is frankly fantastic now the build for me was about 30 hours give and take like i did a couple things off camera but overall the build live stream series basically covered the majority of the work now how long if you want to build one you're going to take for actually assembling everything is going to depend on a couple of things whether you know you have all the parts you need and whether you're going to have to stop and order more um whether you've built a printer before whether you have a live stream kind of distracting you all those things come into play if you're experienced i guess you could build this within like 15 or 20 hours if you're good and if you have a wiring loom which is a big part of building this i've ordered the firmware labs which is like the generic wiring loom for using an skr and the dragonheart into e3d or standard hotend but because i'm using doit for electronics and the slice engineering mosquito magnum plus who were sponsoring the build i actually needed a different wiring loom i was planning on re-crimping this one but linear actually sent me one that was specifically made for this printer so that worked out fantastically if you have to crimp yourself like that's easily another five hours of repetitive work which i don't really enjoy the build documentation that the warren team is putting out is frankly excellent like it's better than what many commercial printer manufacturers manage to put out there uh it's nice renders of every step like you have to kind of get into the flow of how the instructions are meant how they're intended like they're not mentioning any of the drop-in nuts for the t-slot and some stuff you do have to figure out yourself like the z-axis assembly uh manual doesn't really tell you how to put that together but overall it's pretty logical how everything goes together there is like one canon way i guess to build the war on but you still have the choice of your own components for for example the hotend i guess the bed is very universal what electronics use those aren't exactly set in stone for the build though there is a clear preference in the community for which parts to use for those but if you want to deviate from that you're free to do so the way that the warren team has designed this machine is i guess you could call it over engineered but to be honest it's right at that point where you can still justify like the complexity of some assemblies and you know the way that stuff fits together you can still you know argue that that is a better solution it is not complexity for complexity's sake like for example the geared z axis this is a one to four gearing on each of the four individual z-axis motors that's like i guess you could justify because there's there's extra weight on the z-axis and having individually driven z-axis motors lets you do something pretty cool for example in case like one of those motors is a bit drooped down or your gantry isn't perfectly tram there's no auto bed leveling built into the printer but what it does is it uses the inductive sensor and it does in fact compensate for that skew in the platform and it moves each z-axis motor individually to kind of compensate for that racking which works really well if you have a flat bed like right there you saw that that kind of corrected itself and now it's perfectly tram again that is a really cool solution and that means you don't have any like active z-axis tracking that kind of follows the contour of your warped bed uh instead the printer just trims itself and that's the end of that story there are a couple of choices in the voron design that i guess i would do differently now that i've built one there just may be something that i did not choose correctly for example um the bet is great because it's static the bed does not move instead the tool it moves around it but it is a pretty large chunk of aluminum which takes a while to heat up which is perfectly fine but it's not insulated on the bottom so what happened after a couple prints is this entire bottom panel is completely warped now that's simply because of the heat radiating away from the bed so i guess i should have put some sort of insulator underneath the bed and you know this is one of the worst parts to replace because it's sandwiched between the bed rails and the electronic rails on the bottom as a z end stop on top of that automatic tramming the voron intends to use like a two length sensor that sits behind the bed and that the nozzle like physically touches down on the idea is that this would not be influenced by heat as the probe would be and that if you do a nozzle swap this would automatically correct for different length nozzles i found that i don't really need it and i've actually not installed it yet because the sensor is reliable enough and with the 0.6 millimeter nozzle and a thicker wider first layer like bed adhesion isn't really that much of an issue and the first layer goes down pretty consistent but you know this is another one of those cool design features on the voron that is just unique to this machine in general though the printer is pretty easy to work on the hotend is just i think four screws to remove the extruder also sits on a separate carriage the electronics are all open in the bottom so if you need to work on those like you can really easily get to those i think there's a panel that actually goes over top of this if you want to but the stuff that you need to get to is actually pretty easy to service should you ever need to do so the base components of course like the linear rails and the belts that's not really something that you should need to service maybe drop a bit of oil on them every now and then and that should be good so like i said i chose to build this from the formbot kit and i guess that is not the like the highest rated option for building one of these because in the past the quality of components has fluctuated just a bit when it comes to like what drag chains are included the hotend is an e3d clone that's included in this kit the beds also uncertain quality and the aluminum extrusions sometimes weren't all that great i've got to say i am overall very happy with the components that were included in the kit and with the quality of how everything was put together which is even more surprising because formbot is the same company that made the raptor 2.0 which was a disastrous 3d printer as a whole and now they're putting together parts for another 3d printer and it's actually it's actually pretty decent i did end up replacing quite a few parts from the kit so first of all the hotend obviously slice engineering sponsored the build so use their mosquito magnum plus with a 0.6 millimeter nozzle the like community choice would be to use the mosquito clone the dragon hot and by fetus of course you can also use e3d components or anything else that fits in there i guess the logical choice for this machine would be something like a volcano or a magnum plus or something with a bit of a longer block the mosquito magnum plus might be a bit overkill but then again it is nice knowing that you're never going to run out of flow rates on the hotend i did also swap out the aluminum base for the bed you can see the one that's included is planed on one side oh this is actually not super smooth but it is just standard rolled aluminum it has that rolling texture on the back so the concern is that this might warp under heat um this one from fermilabs is cast so this is going to stay absolutely flat and so far there is zero warping i am using the energetic pei sheet that was included and this actually works great but the coating does come off fairly easily so you know a couple crashes first couple of prints and there are now deep score marks all the way through the pi coding i don't know if this is because the warren is just a very rigid machine or if it's because of this coding not being super strong but you know if you're careful with it it does work and the concern that the magnetic sheet magnetic sticker that is included with these beds might wear out and kind of lose its strength as you're using higher temperature material so far i cannot confirm i've been using this at 110 degrees and it still sticks down extremely well i've also used different electronics than what would have been included in the kits so like i said i chose to use do it three instead of the skr or octopus or spider boards that are basically what most people are going to use simply because i needed a couple of extra outputs and i needed a bit more flexibility for a future project which i guess i can tease but that's something for like in three weeks the standard electronics from what i've seen work just fine for a normal build um and even do it three is overkill with the tmc 2160 and 5160 drivers which are like five amp drivers they could fry a nema 17 but again it is good knowing that like the driver limits are not going to be an issue on this build and also the trinamic drivers seem to harmonize really well with these stepper motors that were included they're really quiet they give a ton of torque and they're super reliable now for the other parts that were included in kits like the linear rails belts drag chains those were all actually pretty good um the linear rails are no name types like they don't have any branding on them the belts are gates belts from what i can see on their labeling which is fantastic the drag chains were ones that you can open which makes wiring really simple a couple of component choices that i would disagree with is first of all the black oxide fasteners these come drenched in oil they are not a pleasure to work with and once the oil wears off they're going to rust like they're going to be rust spots all over the hardware on this printer in probably two years and it's just going to look nasty i would very much prefer stainless hardware or even galvanized hardware is so much better of a choice then they do include just a ring of 24 gauge silicone wire the intent is that you use this to make your own wiring loom now the silicone wire i think is actually too large of a diameter on the outside it does not fit well inside the jst xh connectors that you would use to you know hook up everything on this machine so again just grab a wiring loom i think that is the better choice overall and then maybe a bit of a nitpick um the motors that are included according to the label on them are the exact ones recommended for the warrant 2.4 they're not brand name steppers so whether the specs actually apply to these as well not sure they do seem to work really well but i would really have preferred to have some that have the connector on them uh just a standard jst connector and not a fixed wiring length because all the wires are too short to reach all the way through the printer anyways except for the z motors so you do need to crimp your own connectors onto these on the x y and e axes minor inconvenience the knockoff bond tech wheels in the extruder seem to work just fine and again the e3d v6 clone hotend that was included also seems to be one of the higher quality ones though i don't know how well that's going to perform the clones do have quite a variance in how well they're actually going to work out in practice now one of the things i guess i should address because it was kind of a red thread throughout this build and on the videos i've made after this even is the way that the clipper community interacted with this build and the channel in general and basically harassing me for not using clipper and then crapping over octoprint for being an alternative to to what the clipper crowd likes to use so i so the interactions that were brought upon me from the clipper community were not pleasant uh there were trolls at best and harassment at worst now after this i have zero interest in engaging with clipper again because well there just seems to be probably a vocal minority in the clipper community that is just unpleasant to deal with and i don't want to deal with that again i've always tried to avoid engaging with toxic communities and from what i have experienced unfortunately it looks like clipper is another one to add to that list i'm sure clipper is a fantastic firmware and does a great job and i appreciate the people making it but it's just not something that i wish to engage with in contrast to that i have actually experienced the voron community as being extremely helpful friendly forthcoming just great people and that goes for both the designers and developers of the voron as well as the community of builders who are you know just building these printers for themselves you've all been super friendly and helpful before during and after the build so that is something that i do need to point out thank you for that now as great as the war on community and the hardware design is this is not magic like this entire thing is still constrained by physics it is a corex why it is built incredibly rigid and light which is something you do want for high speeds and higher accelerations but at some point you do run into the limits of what this thing can do without kind of a little bit of help so i've now got two profiles set up for this machine uh one is just the super fast one which prints at about 10 times the speed of a regular mark iii ender neptune whatever and another one that prints at about three to five times the speed and just gives me a bit better quality now with pressure advance and input shaping i think even the fast profile which is right now around 250 millimeters per second could produce very good results and for that you do need to tune in input shaping which is a feature that is in clipper and in wrapper firmware as well which basically compensates for any ringing that might occur from resonances in your motion system this platform can hit some pretty high accelerations and speeds and i think input shaping should actually make those higher speeds and accelerations more usable and more reliable because it does reduce resonances where you would typically see some skipped steps i've printed a lot of ptg which works fantastically with this printer i've also done flexibles which also works i've done some nylon of course abs polycarbonate all just works with minimal guesswork and the hardware is definitely capable of it in fact the first benchy that i printed just kind of accidentally was a 30 minute benchy i still remember from earth 2019 where there was a competition for who could print the best 30 minute benchy and one hour benshi and as far as i remember the 30 minute benches with a ton of tuning did not look as good as this one so just accidentally did a 30 minute benchy in fact i think this looks better than what a lot of printers can do out of the box in like three hours of print time now lastly i guess price of a voron build of course price is not something that he can pin down because again there is no official source for buying a voron you can build it with the 4mod kit for i think about a thousand euros you still need printed pipes which you can get from the voron printed forward project for basically material cost i think a 2.4 set is about a hundred bucks plus shipping it just includes the parts to build a functional printer that you can then use to you know print your own skirting etc this printer as it stands is probably closer to about 2 000 euros in parts but that is using some parts that are pretty overkill like you probably don't need the mosquito magnum plus regular magnum or volcano or something equivalent would very much work as well you don't need the full do it 3 2 3 mini or the skr works as well and you can definitely shave off a bit of cost here and there but i don't think that you would want to do that the voron as much as it is a high performance printer that you could use for like high speed high volume production being a diy machine i don't think you would want to put that in a business unless you're really enthusiastic about these machines and you know how to maintain them i think where these really shine is as just a project as being the next step to having used tunes tweaked a printer for a while and just looking for something that is a bit more capable and for that i think it is a fantastic choice i feel like it is a bit of a shame that these are not commercially available as a ready-build package these would make great production not style printers but you know that is something that the warren team has explicitly decided against doing it is just too much hassle to you know start a 3d printer company essentially but if you're looking for a challenge or just the next step up like i think this is an excellent choice to build yourself and if you are willing to commit to it this thing can easily replace five to ten regular printers in a print form if you have like a high volume output so if you're looking for a printer that is a bit crazy a bit on the overkill side i can very much recommend building one of these so far i have very much enjoyed using it and i can very much see this becoming my preferred printer in the future it is just so nice being able to to print at project speed like you think of a design maybe not this one this is a five minute print i printed a fan drop that is like uh 200 or 300 grams or something that i needed that day i saw the need for that part at noon i sat down i designed it took me like 30 minutes and then it was a two and a half hour print to have the finished part right there i don't have it because it's in the project but i can show you some b-roll of it being able to work at that speed at project speed is something that i've not seen any other printer being able to do like sure you can start the print at night and you're going to have it next morning but thinking of a part and having it once you get to the point where you need it that is actually very very convenient so again i am very happy with this war and the way it turned out the way it performs the way it prints like i've not fully built it even but it is just a joy to use you can find all the parts that i used linked in the description below and i would like to thank you all for watching this video watching the live stream series uh keeping me company there and yeah keep on making and i will see you all in the next one [Music] bye you

Channel: Thomas Sanladerer

Views: 273,463

Rating: 4.9189487 out of 5

Keywords: 3D printing, Tom's, 3D printer, RepRap, voron design, voron 2.4, voron design 3d printer, slice engineering, voron engineering, diy 3d printer, voron 2, voron design 2.4, core xy, voron v2, voron kit, voron v2 3d printer, voron v2.4 build, voron design sourcing guide, 3d print, 3d printer projects

Id: 0E0dM0ZdpRE

Length: 21min 7sec (1267 seconds)

Published: Mon Jul 12 2021