Hero Me Gen 5: The ultimate part cooling fan duct for Creality 3D printers?

this is your complete guide and test to the new modular hiromi-chan five-part cooling system upgrading the part cooling system on your 3d printer is generally a great mod for improving print quality best of all it's typically great bang for your buck because you can print the duct for free and the fans only cost a couple of dollars previously I've covered the pet Spang bull's eye and Hiromi but this video is about something new the Hiromi gen-5 master suite it supports pretty much every cruddy 3d printer and clone this combinations for various printers and different types of fans and ducts and all of the ducts have been tested with CFD being a relatively new project one thing that is light is documentation so hopefully this video can go some way into helping that in this video I'm going to guide you the whole way through the process and then conduct a test so you can see just how well it works so here we have the Thingiverse page for the Hiromi gen-5 master suite this main thumbnail image tells you the appeal of this system it's modular and compatible with a whole bunch of cree LED 3d printers and clones it supports seven different hot ends and six different ABL sensors it also supports a variety of different part calling fans in both single and dual configuration and apparently with all these permutations as over 2 million possible combinations something else that's really nice our relationships with printer mods comm n-th 3d studio comm not only is this compatible with the modular direct drive kit that I'm running on my own into 3 but you can also order hardware kits with all of the required nuts and bolts from printer mods comm TX 3d will be selling all of the printed parts and hardware kits so with either of these options if you're purchasing products it'll make it very easy to transition to this system now there's quite a lot of documentation here and that includes some recent updated files and if we go to the file section we'll see that there's many many files it can be easy to be overwhelmed what I'd highly recommend doing is downloading all the files as a zip but not using this link built into Thingiverse instead scrolling down to the bottom of the file section and downloading the included zip inside the zip you'll find all of the same files except now they're organized tidally into folders all of this of course relates to the instructions which are in PDF form this is the same textures on Thingiverse just a lot easier to read in this format if you're watching this video and wondering if this fan duct is compatible with your printer the list up the top here is probably the best place to start in my case I'm going to fit this system to the end of 3 Pro and it does have the MDD kit version 1.2 it's running my own remix of an earlier version of the hiromi it's also running an easier extruder with another custom adapter that I designed both of these won't be necessary due to the new options with this modular system with my current setup there's a little bit of wear and tear and the fan is a bit loose and rattly but worst of all I don't have proper strain relief in place for all of the wiring and that's just asking for trouble the other printer I'll be fitting this to is the CI 10s pro the stock part cooling fan duct failed on that during my review period since then I've had a simple replacement part from Thingiverse it cools from only one side so we're going to upgrade to twin fans to see if it makes much difference before removing any parts I printed my cooling fan torture test and here are my before results the bridging on the underside are both pretty reasonable and comparable the overhang test is a little bit better on the CR tennis pro it's pretty smooth on all four sides up to around 70 degrees the spires on top are also fairly comparable they have their shape but they're a little bit lumpy with our baseline set we can now start with the new kit before we start we need to look at some prerequisites there's some knowledge you need to have to select the correct parts the printer model should be pretty straightforward for most people you'd hope the hot end type can be a little bit trickier on my end of three I have a micro Swiss replacement hot end and the CR 10's pro has the stock high end this is the round one with two mounting bolts and this is referred to as the v6 style in the documents the some notes here and I recommend you read them so you don't print the wrong parts the next thing you need to know are how many and what size fans you're going to use with this upgrade here's a selection of the most common fans that you'll see on 3d printers and relevant to this upgrade the first thing to understand is that the naming convention works on the exterior dimensions this fan here being a forty ten this first fan is known as an axial fan name so because the axis that the blades spin around is the same direction of airflow provided by the fan the air moves away from the sticker side and generally these fans aren't suitable for park cooling instead we use these radial or blower fans with these the rotational axis of the fan blades is not the same as the direction that the air exits from this 4010 blower fan comes stock on an end of three and other printers and it's not actually catered for by the hero media and five instead you either need to use a fifty fifteen blower fan as shown here or a forty twenty blower fan as found on the CR 10s pro in summary only the right two fans here are compatible with the hiromi Gen five so you're going to have to go shopping for them and when you do make sure you research your printers voltage and select matching for the fans other things to make sure you have are the appropriate tools for creating plugs when you wire in the new fans before you start it's also worth looking at the hardware required this is an exhaustive list and it states you probably won't need as much as this I've built up a great collection of spares over the years so I felt well-prepared if your printer has auto bed leveling you'll need to know the type of sensor and if you've converted to direct drive the specific parts for you too if you have a BL you've already changed the firmware to implement it but fitting this system will move the probe relative to the hot end and you're likely going to have to update your firmware offsets without up to selecting which parts to print and we need to read carefully and select from the list for each section the first part you need is the gantry adapter plate and this is what interfaces with your printer to bolt the whole thing on the same printers are listed multiple times so it's important to read thoroughly rather than stopping the first time you see your printer listed for me I have an ender 3 Pro with a micro Swiss hot-end but that's actually incorrect for me because I'm running the printer mods comdirect drive kit instead I need to come down and find that combination and then locate the two files in my case adapt at 5a and gantry clip 5a now coming to the relevant folder and I can find the two parts that I need to print the next piece is the base and this is the bulkiest part of the assembly for my end of 3 it was the top one base one but the see our tennis pro with the v6 style needed base 5 the next section is only if you're running direct drive and on my end of 3 I have an easier strew de with the printer mods kit version 1.2 therefore I needed strudel adapter one next up is our fan mounting and part cooling duct and your type of printer and hot end are irrelevant here you're only selecting this by whether you have 50 15 or 40 20 and whether you have one or two of them the mounting and clearance is exactly the same for each of them so does pick the ones you want based on the number and size of the fans you have the penultimate section is for mounts and there's notes here that tell you whether they use medium wide or narrow depending on your fan ducts your previously selected on the CR tennis pro I needed the 18 millimeter om mount and if you have a bale touch you need to pick one wing as well as one mount our final section is completely optional and their fan guards as well as LED mounts we have all of our parts selected so now we need to print them there's guidelines in the instructions on the settings you should use for instance the adapter plates should be really high infill but the rest can be a bit lower since both of my printers have silicon socks on the hot end I elected to use PLA for everything the several hours worth of printing to produce all of the parts but for the most part they are support free and that's particularly nice on something as complex as the Dux soon you have all of your parts ready for post-processing it's a nice idea to use a to clean up any of the holes and the holes on the adapter plates are designed to not need support but you still might need to clean them up a little the aim is to have m3 Hardware going far enough to sit flush so the entire surface is flat you might also have some obvious defects to cut away with the blade we're aiming to have the airflow as smooth as possible I didn't need much support material but obviously you're going to remove that and perhaps the fiddly as' part is inserting the m3 nuts that go through the assembly that are going to hold everything together most of them have a hex cutout and the location is obvious however this for that are a little bit trickier at the rear of the base part to fit these I would place the nut in position and then use a temporary m3 bolt and get the thread started before putting something thin in and gently tightening it to pull the nut into its slot for any nuts that weren't wedged I applied a dab of superglue to hold them in place you can now start to disassemble your hot end and this is gonna be different for every printer basically just keep on removing fasteners until you're left with a bare plate both printers will straight forward apart from the CI 10 s Pro where I had to loosen the V rollers to access the bolts behind the abl sensor the end of three with the printer mods direct-drive kit was really easy with everything disassembled now is the time to do any custom wiring if you're changing fans the CR 10 went from single to jewel so I wired in this simple Y Junction using dupont connectors now we start reassembly and each of the adapters use 4 m3 by 8 millimeter bolts from the rear to hold the base on before you put these two together however you need to mount your hot end so that it's dangling inside with the bolts already in place this is by far the fiddly as part of the whole thing and it really helps if you put that dab of superglue around your nuts to stop them falling out hopefully this goes smoothly for you and before too long you'll have your adapter and your base connected now's a good time to double check your wiring to make sure it lines up with the supplied channel there should be just enough clearance through the front of the base to get a tool in and to tighten the bolts that are securing the hot end to the rest of the assembly the handing on your printer and bass adapter there's going to be additional fastness used to hold everything firmly in place from my direct drive converted into three now is the appropriate time to install the easiest route adapter next we're doing a vo mounts if you need them and for the veil touch the wing piece snaps into place and is held on by two M three bolts you can then mount the B I'll touch onto the mount that you printed before aligning the back of the mount with the slots on the wing and putting another fastening bolt in just loosely at this stage but the CR 10 s Pro I needed to remove the two grub screws from the factory mount and transfer them over to the printed mount for the hiromi five this mount then bolts onto the base adapter again with m3 hardware and then finally we insert our probe from the top again just leaving it dangling for now the axial fan for the heatsink now bolts into place again using m3 hardware except this time they cut their own thread in the plastic base just be careful with the hole on the upper right if you use a bolt that's too long it can reach through and touch the wires for the hot end if you're using one of the optional accessories over the top of the fan you'd obviously put that on at this stage as well for the direct drive and the three I needed a slightly longer length of PTFE tube this spends the small gap between the bottom of the easiest ruder and the top of the hot end now was a good time to install it before I bolted the easiest Rooter to the printed adapter piece with everything else now installed we can finally take our printed fan duct and slide it up from the bottom each side uses two M three bolts of varying lengths we're going to put them in but we don't want them tight yet because we still need to make final height adjustments your blower fan or fans can now be rested in place on top of the duct and then you can use yet another m3 bolt with a nut this time I recommend a lock nut to hold everything in place if you are wondering what the 40 20 spacer is for this is where it goes we're on the homestretch now and we can use cable ties for some cable management on my end a3 that means finally having some strain relief a big improvement we can now set the final height of the duct by lowering the nozzle down until it's touching the bed and then slide the duct up or down until it's between 1.4 to 1.8 millimeters I printed a one point five millimeter box it took the guesswork out of this job and when you're done you can finally tighten those retainers on each side of the duct this height seemed pretty spot-on to me when I conducted a water test there was a nice depression in the water just underneath the nozzle if you're running auto bed leveling you'll need to also set the correct height for your probe here I use a four millimeter hex key to set the correct height for a bail touch version 3.1 tightening the retainer up top there's a good chance the probe offset has changed with this new system the instructions will tell you the probe offsets depending on your combination if you're using a recent version of Marlin you can update this with m8 51 followed by an M 500 to store the value in the EEPROM if you're using an older version of Marlin you're going to have to go back into the firmware source and update the values there after this recompile and upload the firmware to the printer I had to do this for the seei 10s Pro and I took the chance to trial at a new branch of firmware this version works with the Cree ality touchscreen and as extra features such as a g-code terminal and other useful things like PID tuning this repo is linked in the description and so far it's working great for me because the adapter plates for this system push the hot end out a few millimeters you might find that your nozzle is no longer in the correct spot after homing if you can't fix this by simply repositioning the end stop there are detailed instructions to tell you what to update with G code if you are running order but leveling you're going to have to recalibrate your Z offset on the first print this can generally be done from the LCD or touchscreen and don't forget to save the value with an M 500 so it stays for next time our installation is completely finished so there's nothing left to do but to print a follow-up on the end of three the underside was definitely a little bit tidier as where the overhangs on all four sides my previous setup was already better than stock and this is a little bit better once again on top the skinny spires showed a little to no change the see our tennis pro was going from single to duel fans the results however were a lot closer with the before and after I think it's a tiny bit tidier on the underside and on the underside of each of the four towers it's perhaps a little bit better again but not so obvious as it was for the end of three like the end of three the spires look near identical overall I really appreciate the time and thought that's gone into this and the flexibility it gives in upgrading the part cooling on many Cree allottee and clone 3d printers this is a system I thought was going to be really fiddly but after I'd put it together it all made sense and it was much more simple than I expected what I've learned from my testing is that the upgrade from a small 4010 blower up to a larger blower fan is quite significant so if you've got a printer like an end of three or n25 that comes as one of these fans this is a great system for making that upgrade most of all I'm just really thankful of the time and effort that's gone into this release free to the community to give all of us more options when upgrading our 3d printer if you're going to try this out or you already have please let me know how it went down below in the comments thank you so much for watching and until next time happy 3d printing g'day it's Michael again if you liked the video then please click like if you want to see more content like this in future click Subscribe and make sure you click on the bell to receive every notification if you really want to support the channel and see exclusive content become a patron visit my patreon page see you next time

Channel: Teaching Tech

Views: 250,128

Keywords: 3d printing, 3d print, 3d printer, 3d printed, upgrade, mod, modification, hero me, gen 5, master suite, part cooling, part cooling fan, part cooling duct, axial, blower, radial, 4010, 4020, 5015, ender 3, cr10, cr-10, cr-10s pro, cr10s pro, ender 5, direct drive, printermods, th3d, th3d studio, ezabl, bltouch, torture test, instructions, guide, tutorial, test, tested, step by step, firmware, offset, z offset, clone

Id: DUkoKzOFWFs

Length: 17min 6sec (1026 seconds)

Published: Thu Jun 25 2020