Machine Shaft From 2000 Lb Stock

so one interesting fact about center drills is that if you want to get the maximum diameter on the drill when you when you drill it's a equal to the diameter of the shank see so if this is a three-quarter inch shank center drill and the depth you go to is about is three quarters of an inch to get to the maximum size of the diameter of the taper on on standard ground center drills so i finished ripping this this part down from the stock i left an eighth of an inch on the radius or or a quarter of an inch on the diameter larger and a hundred thousandths on the faces all of these spaces here and this is the way let me let me rotate the chuck if i can do this and see we have pretty minimal run out with the tail center in there but then let me uh let me retract the tail center let's see what we have it's actually going off the indicator here let's see so we got what's that about 15 20 000 or so run out so that's the stress in the material it's the reason i leave stock on it so i'm going to rough this part i've already roughed i'm going to rough the other one and then i'm going to put them back in skim a little steady rest band on here to reclaim my center on the end of the part to finish turning it for finished turning it's the way this stock is because when you take all of this material off of that that big round bar like this here you relieve stress in the material although this isn't really as bad as i've seen some of them all right we have the part here on the crane i'm going to put it in the chuck we're going to use the original here the original tail center to use on the tail stock it for the moment but it's important it's important that we get uh this chucked in here and running through with the minimal amount of stress and introduced back into the park because otherwise you're just gonna turn it it's just gonna bow and you're gonna have problems after you finish machining and the rough feed lines on the on the od of the stock here you can't see them but they they grip the jaws even though i've only got a half an inch of depth on these jaws they grip them very tightly and it's kind of hard to get this to line up when you if you tighten the jaws too tight here so you've got to be kind of kind of work a little at a time i've got the tail stock pressure turned way down too i'm going to just extend this into here into the center but be careful you hit the center here just to hold the part up for the moment start to indicate this party and we'll get it running reasonably true with the chuck without too much pressure on the jaws here if minimal pressure that we can still hold apart and release it without it falling down which i don't i don't know like i mentioned before there's these heavy feed lines on this od and it and you don't it doesn't take too much force even though there's a very little chuck jaw holding onto this part to make it so you can't even hardly tap it to run true down here but it's important even though we've got it sitting in the tail center to get it to run true up here then release the tail center make sure it's still running true down here within a reasonable amount so that we're not introducing some more stress by the tail center pulling the part and causing stress in it and then we turn it and release it in its and its bowed the reason i tip this at 45 degrees is it gives me more clearance with the um wrench and the spindle and everything on things it's not absolutely necessary but just makes things a little easier otherwise you're down here and you're hitting things with the y-axis as i said in videos before i'm going to kind of get the indicator on the high spot here and i'm gonna zero it on the hundred thousandths on here and the zero on the big needle i'm not going to worry about anything but the two jaws 180 degrees apart from each other so we're going to rotate around 180 i'm going to see where we're at see we're not too far off only 10 thousandths we got to come up but in this case i'm not i don't want to put too much tension like i said before on these jaws because it's very difficult to uh move the part because of these heavy i don't know if you can hear that running my fingernail over these feed lines then i'm going to re-zero the indicator now i've got a a rough zero of where i'm heading for i'm gonna run it 180 degrees again just to double check that and see it's pretty close to zero so now i can adjust these other two set of jaws one has to be tightened at the top here all right this should be running pretty true already but you see it is now this part is just roughed right now it's like an eighth of an inch of material or a quarter inch on the diameter to come off so that would be plenty good enough right there but now i'm going to run it out here to the tail stock end of it so let me jog it down here i have to move the camera a little bit it's going to hit this steady wrist jaw i'm gonna jog it down to get a reading on the indicator more or less the same as i had before over at the chuck the the small needle on 100 and the larger one on zero and we're going to see what happens here when we release the the tail stock hopefully i've got enough tension on those jaws the part just doesn't fall we'll see it might you might see a jump in the indicator here this tail stock is is a tendency to i think it's pushing it up a little bit to get things to run through just a little now we're going to run this around what we want to do here see this is the high spot right here okay what i'm going to do is hit the hit the face of this um flange at the bottom here to see if i can move the part [Music] it's pretty tight this is what i was talking about see those those jaws get a incredible grip on the part can't move it [Music] gonna have to loosen those jaws just a little bit now let's come back to the high okay this is a high spot let's see if i can tap it down okay it's better i can tap it down a little bit more what i want to do is get this running pretty true down here now i am making the assumption that this rough turned od ran concentric to this center i'm going to check that in a second here but first i'm just getting it up here right now that's not too bad now let's see if we can get this indicator on the on the center itself down here see if i can show you that see if we can get it on the center itself won't be the best angle for this kind of indicator but it'll give us an i've idea a watch up here on my tailstock on my uh i don't know if i'm gonna be able to reach this i'm gonna have to move the tail stock out of the way it's gonna it's gonna hit it's going to hit right here on the tail center so let me let me move that out of the way that'll be the easiest thing to do right here got to come back up here to get the dog there's a there's a dog that clamps into the tail center that should be far enough now let's see if we can get down here on this so on this actual center drill on the part i'd say the indicator is not going to be at a very good angle but it'll still give us an idea we can find the not the best angle on the indicator but we'll see okay so ideally i should actually get this to run true because this is going to be machined down let's see if i can get this a little better than this i think i went too far whoa hitting on the flange now parts moved a little bit away from the chuck jaws to where i can hit on it now that looks pretty darn good there so what i'm going to attempt to do now is tighten these chuck jaws up down in this end and see if i can maintain that run out let's zero the indicator so i can know where i'm at okay i'm not too awfully concerned about the chuck end of it because i know i have a i have an eighth of an inch material down there i just got it running reasonably true what i want is this center to run true actually okay i'm pretty happy with that you can see there's really no deflection at all on that center i'm gonna come back over here to the chuck end of it just to check it just to see how true this is running down here it really like i say it doesn't make a lot of difference down here hopefully it's running reasonably true because we have an eighth of an inch eighth of an inch of material to come off let's see it's running within you know even 20 thousandths down here would be fine it's running about five thousandths out now i've got the chuck jaws pretty tight i think i'm going to be happy with that so now i'm going to bring this center back up and we're going to engage it and we're going to finish roughing the od down to within about twenty thousandths or thirty thousands too big still we're going to skim a little spot for the um steady rest even after that just in case we introduced a little more run out we'll check it after we rough it and um we're going to do the end work which is there's a um just a one inch hole drilled up halfway up into the part see that that dog right there that has to engage on the the tail center has a um piston hydraulic piston thing or our pin that shoots out and engages that so that i can drag it when it's unclamped all right we're going to bring this center forward got to actually watch these uh down here these way covers i'm going to collapse them all the way to their maximum so we have enough travel with the quill here to extend it into the center now a very little pressure on the tailstock as you can see there just about oh what is that about a thousand pounds or maybe less than that i don't know how good that meter reads when it's the gauge reads how accurate it is when it's down that low but i don't want too much pressure on the tail center you know might introduce a force on this part normally normally i run this at around 2000 pounds on that gauge for the most part now when you change the pressure that it does kind of change things how straight they turn and so you have to adjust this this tail stock has this um it's kind of like a a cam this i don't know if you can see it here kind of hard to see but the actual spindle of the tail center runs off center in the quill so when you um when you turn this mechanism here it rotates the whole quill in the tail stock and you can adjust the the center and and you're really turning straight in this way on this machine so you can you want to move it up and down now theoretically this would move it off-center a little bit in the y-axis when you turn this thing but it turns out that's not enough to worry about it's very little error in theory that might tend to turn the parts you know i don't know which way it would go either barrel shaped or this way but it doesn't really move it enough in the y to make too much difference in that respect and it actually ends up turning very straight once you get it adjusted and it's very easy to to sort of tweak this thing in just put a 10th indicator that's kind of the reason i had the tent indicator here on my mag base to stick it down here on the steady rest and i put it on there well actually in this case i stick it on the spindle i run it up and down when i turn the first finish turn and i make sure that i'm turning straight and i mic it i say i got to adjust it a certain amount and you can do it very easily by turning this cam thing and it um rotates this it's really a nice feature the newer machines the newer mazaks don't have this this way and then you have to do other stuff program tapers and everything and it's not as nice i don't want to forget about setting my uh fixture offset it's kind of easy to forget things when you're doing these videos so i want to set my z i want to set my z zero to take about 50 thousandths stock off the face [Music] i'm gonna there down here with the hammer indicator get it sort of close to y zero and then jog it in here to the zero point so that would make the zero right on the face now we got to go to the control here people have asked me this so i thought i'd show it what we want to do here is go to the fixture or work offset we run the cursor down to the z-axis you can see that i'm going to select the teach button and we're going to go minus thousandths so we're gonna teach the offset another minus fifty thousandths in we'll push the input we're gonna hit reset on the position display and verify that we're setting it 50 000 plus in z so that's how you do that now this machine you have to have the the b at zero degrees the b axis in order to remove or insert tools i guess it's some kind of safety feature to keep the tool horizontal it just doesn't fall out of the spindle when you unclamp it [Music] [Music] so so we've already roughed off the od as you saw let's check this run out now i have this um i have this tenth indicator here because i'm using it to set my uh tail stock with i already had it in the magnetic base so it might might be hard to show it with this if it's more than a few thousandths but let's see what happens okay this this is with the tail stock in to run out you see it might be the feed lines actually in the roughing at the moment now let me back the tail stock off you're going to see the part probably um you can see a lot of deviation here is when you back off the tail stock you have the weight of the part on the spindle and everything so let's see what happens okay as expected to readjust the indicator here see how much uh or if the runout's any different with the tail stock out of the way it's a little bit more the thousandth and a half so what we're going to do actually is up here we're going to skim a little area with the part setting just like this so we can close the steady rest on it and we can do the end work and after we do the end work the center the the tail stock center here is going to be riding on the hole that we make in the end of the part so if everything's running true there again after that then we're going to go and finish turn the od so let me get the um finishing tool down here and we'll just skim a little bit on this od here start at about 250 rpm maybe and set the feed rate here before i get going too far i want to set the jog feed rate okay about four thousandths per revolution now i'll jog it down to where i start to cut a little bit see here hard for me to see this feet along here get a band wide enough for the steady rollers to grab on just enough to clean it up i'm just jogging it by hand here doing all this by hand you got to be kind of careful when you're doing something way out here i'm probably uh oh i don't know 30 inches away from the chuck here don't want to get too carried away with trying to cut too heavy a cut the finish from where i can see i don't know you might be able to see better with the camera because you're closer than i am it doesn't look too bad i want to get a sort of decent finish on this to run the rollers on and of course it's important that it runs concentric to the spindle almost there we gotta turn about a three inch wide section here for the the rollers and the wipers on the ends of the steady rest arms to run off keep trying to keep shavings best we can out from under the rollers this is always a battle continual battle when you're running a steady rest is shavings getting under the rollers although if it dents apart in this case it wouldn't be real serious but if you're running on finish diameters or something like that the rollers will still leave a mark but you don't want to dance it's like it's doing pretty good like i said we're running 250 rpm and one inch per minute or four thousandths per revolution what that says on the controls here almost there kind of just eyeballing this in relation to the steady rest jaws okay probably be good enough stop the spindle open the doors i jogged it a little bit away from the the um i don't know there seems like there's not too bad i think i'm going to leave that be now we got to clean all the steady jaws off there's a bunch of shavings i'll show you down here there's a whole bunch of shavings down there and everything we've got to clean all that gotta clean all that up make sure there's nothing there i like to kind of wipe off these rollers a little bit too on this need to go put some oil in the lubricator there's a lubricator on the end of the machine for this steady rest but it tends to just run continuously so i only put a small amount of oil at a time in it when i'm using the steady rest so that it um it doesn't it otherwise i'll just flow a bunch of oil through it and it'll run all over the place and just waste oil so i just put enough to where i'm running a steady rest here's this there's the lubricator on the end of the machine i gotta put a little bit of oil in this i just put enough just a little bit of oil in this because if i fill it up full like i said earlier it'll just run continuously and run the oil through the steady rest whether i'm using it or not and it gets in the chip pan you know chip conveyor and everything so i just put enough in here to get it to go a little bit and this this i've determined is about the amount i need to reset it right now it's setting see if i can do this without spilling too much it's uh it's setting on empty the float switch inside the the reservoir is well let me see actually if i can uh i can get close enough here you can see it maybe read the display now if you can see that right now it's a low level so if i push this little button here it should reset and you'll see pressure on the gauge so but then see when the oil gets down here like at this low it goes back up to low level and it stops so i want to make sure i'm getting lubrication to the steady rest bearings and it pumps that there's a lubricating line here right here and it pumps it up through the arms and into the bearings so we get some lubrication so let me close the uh steady rest here and see what we got going now we're going to check something here too we're going to check the if we're getting any deflection with this steady rest because things change and it can vary so after i move the tail stock away we're going to uh indicate this uh center and see if we get any kind of deviation when we clamp this and unclamp this as well so that also can of course put stress in the part or a hole that we're going to actually machine here on the end you know drill and then we're gonna it's gonna have a chamfer and that this steady rest is gonna kind of i mean this tail stock is gonna kind of run on the chamfer we leave there and we want everything to be running through so that when we do our final turn down this od everything will be running true and not being stressing putting any stress back in the shaft okay let's get rid of this uh tail stop here we gotta again grab ahold of that dog with a shot pin there re-engage it it's got some kind of sensors behind this the the way covers there that sense when it's in the right location so you put it in a mode what they call a um tail body connect mode on the control here and then you you can jog it with the jog key until it it knows when it's lined up because you can't see it back there it's kind of uh i don't know there's some kind of proximity sensors or something in there that can tell when the when the tail stock is lined up to that to the dog you see the dog right there on the this is the one up here i'll jog this back this one up here in the front is for the steady rest which if i blow it off and the one in the back there's for the tail stock or our tail stock body actually the quill is run by a separate deal that you can you can actually do this automatically you can put it in the program to do all that and move it back and forth but i generally don't do that when i'm doing things like this because i want to make sure that i have things right and there's no shavings under the rollers and everything but it can be done automatically in a program you can go down there pick up the tails center's body and bring it forward clamp it and then extend the quill into the part and i've done that very rarely now what i'm going to do is change back to tool number 80 which is the tool i use for um well if i had a spindle probe in the machine it would be for the spindle probe but i use it for the indicating things and everything because on this machine other tools have offsets on them turning tools in particular and a turning tool will offset it the display on the mesotroll wouldn't be so on on machines that are like for nook controls and things like that but on the maze of troll it actually uh applies the offset to the displayed number on the on the display and you can't tell if you're on center line so you have to have a tool that's on center you can you can indicate stuff like with um with milling tools and things like that but as far as um lathe tools you have to be kind of careful because most leg tools have these offsets in two different directions one for the length and one for the the distance the tool is off center and if you're looking at your display and thinking you're at the x and y center you you really aren't because it has the offset in the x direction so what we're going to do is come down here i'm going to set this on where i think machine x y zero is according to the offset and then we're going to um i'm gonna check to see if we're getting any deflection from that with this uh steady rest just to be safe just to be you know careful we want to make sure that it's on zero it'll deflect a little bit you saw it move here like a couple of thousands or so or thousands or so thousandth and a half and what we're um so it looks like it's high or it's pushing the part see here we want the part to come upward actually a little bit so there's adjustments on this steady rest let's see if i can do this without hitting the camera see these four big bolts that hold the steady rest you can't move it with those um adjustment screws unless you have these backed off a little bit okay now we got those loosened enough to where we can actually do an adjustment here when i loosen the screws things changed a little bit so we actually have to come down with it there's nothing that actually forces it down the all the only thing those adjustment screws on the bottom here do is push it upward so i might have to hit it with the dead blow a little bit to make it go down it's kind of hard to move this thing down so i want to go down make sure these bolts are not too snug okay usually you have to hit it back here back the screws off a little bit [Music] i know this seems like a hassle and in normal turning you don't really have to do this i mean it's it's not that far off to where it it affects you too much now i actually intentionally went too far so that i can bring it back upward the amount i want okay let's see where we're at here gotta go a little bit more kind of hard to get to this adjustment screw on the bottom and see what's happening little bit more i can't really uh i can't really look at the indicator at the same time unfortunately okay now this has to go that way now mazak saw fit to make everything that takes a different size ranch so you have to pull out all different kinds of wrenches here what i'm trying to do is get this thing to indicate on center where we were sitting right i might have gone too far with the up upward direction see if it'll come down a little bit on its own this is uh important in the case of this part normally normally like i say i don't worry too much about this unless it's very uh very critical because it's close enough i don't know if that center hole is round actually that's pretty good we're gonna call that good enough right now and i'm gonna tighten these down a little bit this is right now i'm tight i'm snugging up the the four big bolts that hold the steady rest to the mount [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] so so [Music] so uh [Music] okay [Music] so [Music] [Music] so [Music] so [Music] [Music] one [Music] [Music] [Music] so so foreign [Music] so [Music] [Music] so [Music] so my [Music] so so [Music] [Music] [Music] so how good we did with this run out business okay this is it sitting on the center as you would expect it's running true remember this is a a one-tenth indicator so it's very sensitive now we're going to retract the the center and it's going to fall down a little bit because the weight of the part readjusts the indicator see how see how good we did with the run out business here not too bad i mean i could it's about a thousandth of an inch maybe a little bit more 1.2 thousandths not too bad for for being all the way down there 34 inches to the end of the part and then probably another 12 inches to the spindle so that's not too bad not totally unhappy with that funny the part's kind of magnetic after that let me see if i can show you see this is my air hose and it it sticks to it i don't know if you can see that on the video or not but it actually it's sticky maybe i could take a maybe a file would see how it's magnetic it's kind of weird it's slightly magnetic enough to hold that file on there see what we have run out now after no center maybe about seven ten thousandths or so six or seven [Music] that's not too bad so you know you don't you know you don't have any stress in the material see i could push on this and move it [Music] that much just just laying the weight of my hand on there moves it a little [Music] i wanted to make a some video clips of machining this end of the part the flange in but i i ran out of time and i have to deliver these parts today and i just didn't have time to work with the video on this but this is the way i chucked on to it i built a or i machined a bushing out of aluminum and split it with the saw so that i could grip onto this here and not not mar the part up with the jaws of the chuck even though these are soft jaws and uh because i was going to tap it around to get this to get this back face um running true and then adjust the jaws here to get the od running through so that i can machine this feature has to run true to the shaft over here and the face here so that was the reason and also this this kind of helps you get the part in the in the chuck believe it or not because with this long shaft going up in the spindle there's no way to balance this thing too good and so if you put the strap on the other side of this bushing this bushing is about a half an inch thick on the radius and you can kind of start the start it in the chuck jaws here with the strap behind it if you have a thin strap and then you can pull the strap out and wiggle the part in there otherwise it's it's extremely difficult to get this long shaft up in the spindle and balance it unless you have but see the hole in here the hole isn't in the shaft or none of these holes at the time you put it in the chuck so it's kind of tricky to get a part like this in the chuck and this kind of helps a little bit because you can then if you get the bushing started about this far into the jaws with the parts setting kind of like this in the spindle you can pull the strap out and then you can kind of slide it up in there and and straighten it as you tighten the chuck jaws so oddly enough that that kind of helps that too so i didn't really have time to do all that video on that end of the part but here's the other part on the palette done i have to ship these parts today so unfortunately i didn't have time to make the video on that video the taking the part out of the chuck here so you kind of get an idea of um it's just the reverse of putting it in really the way put the strap on and everything and it'll give you an idea of how this in a way this bushing helps you get a part like this in and out of the chuck without scratching up the od of the part so first thing i'm going to do is loosen these um chuck jaws and the part will tip back in the spindle and and they'll hit the end of the part on the spindle bore but but it's not dragging or hitting any of the od of the part on anything right at the moment you see how it tipped back when i loosened i always loosen number uh one this is number one jaw and this is number four jaw i'm dealing with this four jaw chuck so that when i put if i'm putting another part in i'm not in this case but if i was and then i would tighten these two jaws back up it would be running fairly close to true to begin with before i indicated it in so now i got those two jaws loose and i gotta step in the machine here because i i'm i gotta kind of slide the part out a little bit i'm up in the machine now and i have to kind of drag this thing out a little bit but not all the way get out about that far [Music] now to rotate the c-axis so that i have the gap of the jaws sitting upward here and i gotta work this strap through here see the easiest way to do that kind of need a thin strap for this otherwise you're not going to get it in here of course you see that gap between the jaws here i can get the strap between it i thought about sliding the part back in the bushing before i you know just loosened the jaws enough where i could slide it back maybe but i was worried about the shavings scratching the od of the part that are in here as you can see the shavings in there so i didn't do that now i got i've got the strap on the part i'm gonna move it back as far as i can and we're going to lift the weight of the part on the crane here now it still won't really be balanced but it'll be better see it's i got the weight on the crane now and i can i can push down on this so i'm not dragging the end of the part against the spindle board too much well i'm just going to pull it out of here it's uh you can i can kind of shove it down you see all those shavings on it i don't want to drag that across the chuck jaws or anything oh you

Channel: Edge Precision

Views: 2,090,331

Rating: 4.7769895 out of 5

Keywords: edge, edge precision, mazak, mazak integrex, turning, milling, carbide insert, sandvik, mill turn, multi task machine, machine shop, job shop machine work, indicator, 5 axis

Id: 3-jT3HrSHjE

Length: 69min 22sec (4162 seconds)

Published: Thu Apr 15 2021