Machining a Custom Prop Shaft Part 1

[Music] hey guys welcome back to the shop I'm ready to start on my next project here and this is the long shaft that I've got the machine I've gots a previous video show and the modifications that I made to mount the steady rest on the milling machine down there it's a be able to support this long shaft so we're ready to go ahead and get started on this and I'll talk you through what we're gonna do so this is the actual shaft right here that we're gonna machine this is inch and a quarter or 10:45 steel this is the chrome-plated that you are typically used for like a a hydraulic hydraulic cylinder and this is what we're going to use I believe what the customer is doing is he is designing a mud motor and this is a prototype so this is a much cheaper more inexpensive piece of material that you can machine to see if this is gonna work and I believe that if if this is something that he's going to end up running or maybe even producing it will be swapped out to something like a you know a prop shaft material which would be like an aqua tech 17 but for now we're gonna use this 1045 to get him going and see how his design works so this is an actual print of the shaft that he has designed here so I did have it cut to 92 inches so we got a little bit to trim off the end so Tula is going to be 90 and a quarter and each end is machined you got one side that's pretty much just all threaded here you've got a turn area here for a bearing and then on the opposite end you've got to turn down an area it's probably going to be where the prop goes you got a keyway milled in it you got a snap ring groove and another bearing journal right there so it's really not it's not a difficult part a lathe part to machine the the biggest trick is just being able to handle the longer shafts so long bed lays ain't no problem I don't have a long bed Laye so we're going to go through findell to machine it let me show you the setup here this is the steady risk that we're going to use to support the outer end of the shaft coming through the headstock of the Victor this is something that I showed in a previous video as machining this just being supported here on the do all milling machine and this is gonna work really nice very nice we've got a spider I'll show you that we got that on the table our spider is gonna go there so we'll be using our six jaw chuck to support the machined in you'll have the spider here and we'll be will have this indicated so you'd be running true here here and then the outer end the shafts going to be supported here in the steady rest I machine a couple of bushings that we are going to use so this is the actual spider that I machined many years ago that goes on the back of the Victor there and I just made this this is a split bushing right there that will be fitted inside the spider just like you see and with being split I can draw these bolts in and get it indicated and then you're not pushing on the actual shaft itself it's a good way to just protect the shaft and also kind of enlarge that diameter so that you don't have bolts running so far in there alright we've also got another bushing right there this is the one that I made that will be running in the steady rest itself and that's just to help prevent marring up the shaft it's not not like it really needs it but it's just something that I like to do to keep from putting the you know the rub marks in the shaft itself so this is gonna be this is going to slip up on there let's see if I can do this one-handed here alright so that's gonna be up in the you know the back end of the headstock there and then we've got our running bushing that's gonna be out here I've got a good fit on that and so this will be running in the steady rest there I did install brass tip set screws and those work really good to keep from marring it up doesn't take a lot of pressure to hold this to the shaft so you don't have to torque down on this very hard so I believe that's gonna be it right there it was kind of covered it I need to go ahead and only added a couple inches there so I'm gonna go ahead and cut this in the bandsaw to length and then we will start getting a set up in the lathe thought I would show you this this is a great way to check visually check a shaft for straightness just using my static rollers right here static balancers you put a shaft up in there and spin it and you can tell whether or not it's been or not now it's not absolutely perfect I can see a little bit of run out there on that in it's not bad at all though but I think this is going to be fine for a prototype shaft and the you know this material doesn't cost a lot if it needs to be updated you can go with as I said a piece of like aqua tech or Aqua Net 17 and it'll be turned round and polished nice and straight gender cut the size gun to 90 and 3/8 and that'll give us an H of a minutes to face off the ends I think we got a bad blade now I need to swap that out with Anu and back when I Rahl was cutting the titanium rods I was using this blade and it actually pulled a couple teeth out of there I've got a feed and very slow so it doesn't jump whenever it hits that low spot but it's still cut so it just got to be real careful with it got you on the back of the victor here we're gonna go ahead and get this installed on the back I've just got we've got three set screws just push up on there I've got a modified allen wrench just cut it off and made it a stubby so that I can actually reach in here and tighten up the set screws all right just like that so let's go ahead and get our shaft installed now yeah we still got to adjust this here but I've got the height of the mill about where it needs to be I'm just going to go ahead and get through there enough where we know we can get it faced off just enough to hold it up there right now let's go ahead and run these down we're sitting right about you're touching right about in the middle of the pad there and we'll continue to do some fine-tuning on the on the height here as well a little bit a little bit offset and used to go that way all right looks like our split bushings fitting in there good pretty well centered just got to keep fine-tuning it to get it in the middle here go ahead and snug our set screws there to keep that from rotating inside the bore come on baby there we go doesn't take a lot just just a little bit just like that we've got the Chuck snugged up all three jaws there so we'll go ahead and let's just go ahead and run these down till they just touch that one's touching okay go ahead and just kind of Snug them evenly now we'll stick our indicator down I got a Noga set up on the top here I'm just going to rotate it down and that's not good embezzle all my spirits sometimes try to pop off with my fingers they're handling it okay it doesn't need to be but we'll go ahead and rotate that up some I'm just going to spin it by hand looking at the high so the highs kind of split between those two they're long wrench and so you're gonna work it with these bolts here getting it centered and I usually try to get it within you know 1 mm max run out so we'll loosen the low and then tighten the highs just keep working it that's the high right now that one's a little bit high that's the low some might be able to just back that one out and get it very close so we're within 2 now 1,000 right there that should be running nice and straight so let's go ahead and get our outboard support our state your rests get it centered up so a good way to kind of get it level is to actually use a level we've got our little starett 4 inch level here and it's showing in this this is high so well we'll just go ahead and come down with the mill table here just like that so that's putting us real close to being the the shaft itself being level okay so we've got our we've got our bush and snug so what I like to do is just kind of pick up on it and if you're one way or the other if you're too high and too low usually whenever you apply a little bit of upward pressure if it's pushing the one side of the other you'll actually see this moving you'll see it try to pull back to Center one way but I've actually got that it feels pretty darn good right where it's at I'm looking down the pads and it looks like both of our brass pads are riding right in the middle of it so I think we're good right about there we'll go ahead and just run it you know we start off slow and then we step up to a higher rpm monitoring everything and make sure it's going to be good but this should run nice and good the other reason why I like these chrome plated bars for bushings like this is that they're super you know you got a hard outside surface there and it slides very easy especially when you apply a little bit of whale oil that's what this is here is this way and just keep it lubed every so often looks like we've got pretty decent contact right there so we'll go ahead and we'll close her up run this one this one back in I got to take this thing apart this top jaw is very stiff in there like there's trash or chips or something inside of it I need to you know I need to fix that and all you got to do really is just come down to work just just touches let's go ahead and give her a spin get her set in 180 everything's looking good by the way I was going to say I took the knee handle the crank handle off the knee just so that that couldn't get bumped or moved in any way and we've got our table locked as well it shouldn't go anywhere anyway so that's running 180 let's go ahead and bump it up to 370 run a nice they just come over here every so often with our boiler he's put a little bit extra way ole on it just be good to go now what I'll do I'll go ahead and get this side I want to face it I'm not gonna center drill yeah we're gonna face it we're gonna run this out the total amount that we need to and then once we're ready we're we're gonna be a machine and then I'll send her a sinner drill it there the other thing I'll do is go ahead and I'll walk these with these a hex nuts there lock it in but since we're just doing one quick face-off I'm not going to lock it in and then we'll we'll rien de Kate this once we get it set where we want all right so we're just about ready to start making our cuts we're going to be running aw nmg 431 insert because this is my favorite turning insert but I'm actually out of it in the CNM G style which is this style right there the CNM G the the benefit that you have with this is that it gives you eight cutting sides because you can use these what's considered the odd corners for other tools you know I use it for chamfering I've even got a face mill that uses these corners right there but I've still got a pack of these trigon which is w mg so it's this car it is the the TF chip breaker and the grade is the IC 8250 this is always my go-to carbide insert I need to see about getting me another pack of these things ordered they're always reasonably quite price usually between 7 and 8 dollars a piece which isn't bad by the way we're running 600 rpm there no fuss no problems go ahead and pull her out the required length that we need I'm just going to loosen up the one and see if it stays there loosen up our set screws on our running bushing here all right everything's working the way we want sliding it through our split bushing and staying in place this one staying in place because I push down on it just a little bit I'm gonna back off that so I just need to get the shaft set on the Chuck in where we need to be and then we'll lock everything back down I want a total of 10 inches stick out our machine journal last journal is going to be 9 inches from the ants that gives us one inch here clearance should be good there 10 bed and snug up our run and bushing again come on new set screw a new wrench all right I'm gonna back off of that just a little bit all right we'll snug this one back down here but we'll have to go ahead and set the indicator up and re indicate okay time to go ahead and reenter nice stayed within mm yep that's within one thousandths so we're we're good to run right there I'm gonna see if I can tweaked up that's a that's a half a thousand right there go ahead and two of these I had snug down those two so that's nice right there all right let's go to our Chuck make sure they're running nice and true on our Chuck as well I've got all three pinions of the six jaw snug that is something that I discovered after getting and using this Chuck that it does make a difference whenever you equally tighten all three opinions it helps to keep that that scroll centered in there and equal pressure on it I got people that don't believe me but it's it's true all right so we're ready to go see we're set up there so I've got less than one thousand thrown out right there and that's gonna be good enough for what we're doing right there if you wanted to improve this if you really needed to have it closer than that you can use the set true feature on this backing plate behind the Chuck here and dial that in but we're less than one thousandth right there it looks like maybe eight tenths judging it by eye six hundred rpm test it No people though oil squirters back here on the run and bushing and we're ready to go we'll start with a center drill and then we're gonna get this in turn this is the one that's going to have about a little over five inches of thread and then you've got another journal right there for a bearing just keeping the senator l-lewd looking pretty good I'm gonna first get my total shoulder length set furthest back which would be 9 inches there it's looking pretty good right about there all right we're all nine inches I'll set a zero on my indicator go ahead and we'll get it turned down to see we're gonna take that to leave it's 984 twenty-five millimeters is what this is going to be here and then the thread will be 3/4 10 use my mini cool - cool checking my finish there I've made two ruff passes across there now and it was a Mike and nice and straight on the first pass there so I'm gonna do a check on the second one see where we're at yeah it's looking good so we're at my five tents on that mic let me see where I'm at on the tents on this mic right here we're right on it that's between four and five tents there so we're running nice and straight so I will I'm gonna leave this a little bit oversized so that I can finish it real nice and we'll go ahead and get this area turned as well for our thread [Music] that's one more rough pass across there that's going to leave the barren Journal 20,000 so Versailles and I'll come back and finish that out later we get the we'll get the threaded end done and it will finish the baron journal on size I'm getting my zero set for the next shoulder-distance there which is going to be 5 and 1/8 and a good little thing to practice do and is go ahead and make you a mark on there because I have I've shown this kind of stuff before because I have at times been kind of to say sleeping at the will and thinking that I'm still going down I'm looking at this journal thinking that we're still going to here and I'll bypass that where I need to stop and then mess the shoulder linked up so putting the line on there just kind of adds a visual reference that you know that you're gonna be coming up to a stop right there a little witness mark just like that and now we're ready to finish turning that down to 3/4 this is a tool we're using for our undercut it's 1/8 wide and we're gonna take it right about a hundred and thirty thousand steep which would be the double depth of a 10 pitch thread that's gonna provide a nice corner radius and a thread relief as well so whenever I'm coming down I'm threatened I'll have a place that I can stop this is how all prop shafts are manufactured I've got a chart that shows all the dimensions for your threads and your undercut the width the diet the depth all that kind of stuff alright we'll go ahead and get this journal finished out here this is going to be our 25 millimetre journal and insta mentions that'd be 0.9 84 plus 0 minus 1 so we've got a 1,000 saan that and if you're wondering why I'm doing aisle on these little light finish passes like this with this negative rake tool the oil just seems to help with this gummy material to leave a better finish than the mist go on the miss cool it's mainly just to keep everything cool from getting hot for for my use anyway going in here for our final measurement to get down to our final size there I really enjoy using this brown and sharp digit mic it's got the digits right there for you to read very super easy convenient so we've got I've got about eleven thousand s that I need to come off this I'm going to dial in ten thousandths that way I can finish this with files in Emery cloth and make this a nice finish there [Music] [Music] all right we got our finish there see what it mics out at we're getting nine eighty five and four tents nine eighty five and looks like five tenths right there it's between the two lines there so as I said we're gonna use our mill smooth file to just kind of knock that down and then we'll use emery to bring it down to our side so we've got a nice journal there and he says that this is actually designed to be a slip fit so it's not a you don't have an interference where a bear is going to be pressed on there it's they they want it to where the bearing unit slides on to that journal there some of the tools we'll be using I've got my three-quarter ten go and no go gauges and this also gives you your pitch diameter that you should be able to measure that so you've got a range there that you want to stay 0.68 three two you want to be that or under but you want to be above 0.67 seven so you want this to screw on but you don't want this to screw on this actually means that it's too small that's under under what the recommended pitch diameters would be so also got my Lufkin pitch mic right here this is good for eight to thirteen threads us or you know V threads so we'll be using that to measure our pitch diameter there's another little handy trick you can do if you don't have the you know all the thread mics and the go/no-go gauges if you just want to do it off math if you want to figure what your depth is and this is the depth with the compound set at 30 degrees that's the style that I use so that whenever I bring this cross slide back and go back in I go to a zero I don't have to keep up with how far I went in on the dial every time it's easier to go back to a zero mark and an N feed your compound that's the way that I like it so if you want to figure out how what your in feed is for whatever pitch you go 0.75 zero divided by your threads per inch in this case is ten seventy five thousand so that's going to be your approximate n feed that you're gonna be cutting that thread now this will get you really close but don't just if you do this don't touch all feet in that amount think that's it you still need to check things and make sure that it's going to work but this will get you really close right here I'm going to go ahead and make our stretch pass here I'm just going to go down just a little ways and then stop just like that if you have my indicator set up on the cross slide here as a back up let me show you that we've got our compound set to zero and I have a mag back indicator there so I have two zero reference points is right there and on your dial even threads you can hit any line on that I can't engage it anywhere I want because 10 is not divisible by 4 which is what this thread pitches here but any of those lines right there we can actually engage and line up on our thread so just use the pitch gauge here to verify and we are lined up on 10 so we are good to cut we're going to go ahead and dial in start making a cut here I'm just going to use my thread cutting oil to lubricate the tool I just kind of blow that smoke out of the way at the very end so that I can see the undercut getting pretty close there I'm actually 10,000 soft my 75 depth so I'm just going to go ahead and take a measurement there because we know if we want to be at 0.6 86-83 so that'll kind of give me a an idea of how far we're off on the thread real touchy on a thread pitch Mike you got to get right into dead top end of it so we're at 7:10 I'm still got a little ways to go [Music] getting down to the last I'd say five gallons bring it to size [Applause] make it some very light passes here I'm going to do a spring pass check it with the pitch mic so we're we're pretty much there I'm gonna have to do like I'm gonna do a spring fast because I'm miking it at 684 we want 683 and I'll show you this is our go gage alright it's starting on there but it's actually there's friction against it so it's starting to get tighter so I can forcefully screw it on there but I don't want to do that so what I'm gonna do is make a spring pass and that's something else I get people to ask me that that are not aware what is a spring pass well anytime that you're making cuts across here on the lathe like this you're applying tool pressure so that tool is trying to push that material away as it's rotating while times it lifts up or push away so if you come back into your last pass on the you know the exact zero and you make a cut you're gonna be rubbing the material and usually you're taking a little bit off there as it makes that pass and that's what's considered a spring pass just from the material spring and or push back on the previous pass there so let's go ahead and do that you see how little it's taken off just a little bit so let's go ahead and check that make sure that there's no chips on it so that's feeling good I think we got it right there let me go ahead and give it a check with the pitch mic and I'll measure on both ends and make sure that we're cutting straight you got to have this thing straight up and down there so we are at yeah you're trying not to look at it and just feel the top dead center of it and we are at 682 all right so we're saying a thousand thunder so this is screwing on there so we should be good to go I was going to show you I want to take one of these brass nuts these I've got several of these these are leftovers from way back in the day whenever my dad used to machine quite a bit of marine prop shafts I've got several these nuts easier than these were the nuts that would have been used on he was probably an inch and a quarter or inch and an eighth maybe one inch prop shaft would have a three-quarter thread as well and you would have a couple of these on there so the perfect fit so we've done good on our size we've got it right there where it needs to be so we know that he can take any standard nut and it screws on there and fit just the way it's supposed to and I will point out that this is a class two to a finish on the diameter there on the pitch diameter go ahead and break our corners there make it approximately 40,000 last phase is to go ahead and file this right here for our journal so I want to make sure all the oil is off though but I like using this stuff right here just give it a little spray we'll go ahead and clean the threads off there as well the evaporates really fast and it'll knock all that oil off there because you don't want the oil in the file blow dry it just a little bit go ahead and double check my sizing and see where I'm at I believe I had a thousands to come down yeah we got just over a thousand so I've got one of my good files right here one of the mill smooth this is a Johnson file by the way my file brush we're going to be knocking off the high spots of the tool March to begin with so you're hitting the files good there keep the fire brush clean so you don't you know make a bunch of scratches on there with the chips so we've got eight tenths left to go I'll go ahead and check it down here as well looks like nine tents and eight tents is what we got so I'm just going to continue hitting it with the file of this like this still got about six tents to go so I'm just going to keep doing that and I'll bring it down to about two tents and it all takes them fine fine Emery to give it a nice polish and it should polish out exactly on nine eighty four got our last couple of tents to go so I've just got some of this Emery here use this for our final polish we give it a check before I get too heavy on it see where we're at we've got two tents and looks like that one right there I'm right on size so I need to hit this outer end just a little bit right here it's like one tent to go just on that very tip I must not have filed it very very much out there as far as the heat there's no I don't feel any warmth to it so it shouldn't shrink on us so there we go we hit our 984 right there so we are good to go 984 984 it looks like maybe 110 Thunder right there so all I'm gonna do now is take some scotch brite let me find my scotch brite I just got a fresh sheet right there this is the stuff that I buy at the swap meet usually a dollar a piece and it works good so I'm just going to soften everything up make sure there's no burrs left on the threads right there I've already filed up in here on both ends where the thread starts and stops I was hoping to get those little tool marks out of there but there they were more than a thousand deep that's how that Gummy's material works if you can't get enough surface speed on it all right well I'm gonna call that side done right there it looks good and everything is right on size so I'm happy with that [Music] [Laughter] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] you [Music]

Channel: Abom79

Views: 411,161

Rating: 4.931685 out of 5

Keywords: abom79, shaft, prop shaft, boat shaft, mud shaft, propeller shaft, custom shaft, custom prop shaft, long lathe work, long bed lathe, steady rest, custom steady rest, steady rest support, victor lathe, machine shop, job shop, manual machining, manual machinist, booth machine shop, split bushing, external shaft support

Id: kKrdJdpx33M

Length: 44min 14sec (2654 seconds)

Published: Tue Apr 21 2020

Reddit Comments

[u/andiculous]

Abom was the first time I began watching 30+ minute videos on YouTube without realizing. Great machinist that seems like a good guy as well.

[u/[deleted]]

The YouTube machinist community has changed my life for the better in so many ways and Adam Booth you see here is one of the finest examples of that community.