830 Op 1 Machining and Flange End Op 2

see if i can show you this here in the video we face the part like we did in the first part of the program and we drilled halfway through the part and kind of the reasoning behind this if i can demonstrate this let's see if i can show it to you you can see it see the parts up against that jaw pretty good see the gap you can see that between that jaw because in order to get the the part to stick out straight from the chuck it's not too bad on that jaw it's up there pretty tight on that one so it's kind of kind of got a gap on a couple of these jaws i think or maybe just that one now see that one so those two jaws have a gap there and i don't want to do this heavy roughing and be pushing back against the part or the you know and have it shift in the jaws for some reason and also i want to drill this hole halfway up so when i drill the other hole from the other side they'll meet and then when i'm roughing the bore the shavings have somewhere to go actually that way up into the spindle and it doesn't pack up with shavings in there when i actually bore the id the id is not critical it could be drilled even but i don't have a drill the right size and and boring it actually leaves a nicer finish than the drilling and i can chamfer the front of it at the same time like you saw when i made the program so right now i got to uh take this out and flip it around and indicate it in reasonably true doesn't matter this hole is like a two and a sixteenth drill and the hole gets bored out to two and a half inches so the run out isn't too critical as far as that hole goes or even this face so much but i do want this face up against the shoulders in the jaws that is important i got the crane on here take a little bit of tension on it part is um about 900 and something pounds the blanket material don't want to lose control of it loosen these jaws releasing the one jaw this is the number one jaw and the number four jaw always try to loosen the same two jaws so i don't have to indicate too much when i turn things around oop didn't have much tension on the crane now i have found that if i back off these two jaws just a little bit about that much that it makes things just a little bit easier to indicate see if i can get this turned around [Music] now i'm going to jog the machine up here and get a little help to push it up into the chuck because it's kind of heavy for me to hold this part if i'm careful here i wouldn't recommend doing this and not being very careful doing it i mean you can overload the axis on the push a little bit harder kind of watching the load meter on the display there so i don't overload anything i take a tension on these jaws get a pretty good not a real hard tension but enough to hold the part let's back the z-axis off all right now i'm gonna lower the crane watching what's happening here i don't want it to fall out of the chat because i don't have lots of tension on the jaws i'm going to run it out here just to look at it it's like it's running out probably about 20 thousandths indicated run out more or less which is fine it's gonna be fine now i'm gonna i'm gonna reset the um the z zero on the fixture offset get it in there uh so it's going to clean up because we already faced some of the material off the other end of the part and we saw when i showed you the jaws that it wasn't a it was actually not up against the chuck all right what we're going to do is run this up until we get a reading then we're going to turn the c-axis until we get the minimum distance here see so that's coming up into the indicator it's going away right about there i'm going to set the gonna back off and come back on the indicator and come up to zero or teach the zero minus thirty thousands more that way input and so we're setting it plus 30 thousandths right now with the indicator all right so now should be ready to start restart the program and let it face and drill up to the hole we already drilled and then complete the operation [Music] [Music] before i go any further i'm going to check to see if i can make it down here without hitting the jaws this is about where it goes to so it should clear easily just want to make sure that and i'm going to restart the program for this roughing cycle [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] finished roughing out the od with that tool there that's what it looks like see if i can shine a light down here you might be able to see the hole that met the other hole so we got that drill and because the chip conveyor is not working this is the see that normally is down that low now it's almost up to the door level here the machine i got to shovel that out [Music] so [Music] so [Music] wow [Music] foreign [Music] so [Music] so [Music] uh [Music] [Music] so hmm [Music] so [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] all right i want to touch a little bit on the cam software on this side of the part first thing we do is face the part rough face it down now i'm going to show you an alternate uh procedure that i i started to do on the other parts that i think is better than this but face it down then we kind of rough finish that base and rough finish this space there's a reason for this because i don't want to drag the 35 degree diamond tool only has like a 5 degree lead angle when it's going backwards up a face like this and so if you leave the roughing tool marks and everything i'll put a picture in here of that you know the roughing tool takes passes down here and it leaves a wavy or bumpy surface from its passes and that 35 degree diamond will kind of follow that contour almost if you will so i take these roughing passes two thousands off the face they're kind of rough finish passes if you will and then come back and i do a full finish pass like this all the way up the face and the uh diameter but now like i said i changed that and i'll show you what i did that i think it's better than that and then we rough board it finish bore it drill these holes rough drill them because i didn't have the same the right size drill again here and then then we mill them out to 780 000 finish size with a half inch end mill you'll see that in the um machining part of the part that i was doing same group of parts but it's different it's just shorter in it and it's um got a longer step here but what i did on the roughing cycle that i think it's better is i i roughed in a horizontal direction just down to this 10 inch diameter like this like you see in the blue here and that way i could run it in low range because the other one i was running all in low range because this is a 16 inch diameter in it and it takes a fair amount of power to face down here and this i can run in low range to get the torque i need and then i did the facing cuts going down to the center of the part in high range so i can get a higher surface footage when i come down to the middle of the park and this um this worked better it was easier on the insert too because it's going a lot higher rpm down here in the middle i roughly rough finish these two faces like i said before and then i i took this finished pass all the way up here but if you look carefully see this black line here is the actual finish size and this is the diameter that that's cutting to and then i did this finish cut just to establish the close tolerance in one little cut here so i didn't have to rerun this whole all these spacing cuts coming up here because if you run this like the second time or something like that it tends to vibrate up here because it's not cutting any material when a tool has not got any force against it it tends to want to chatter easier than if it has a little bit of pressure against it so that's the um the cam side of this thing and we already saw the cad in the first video of this and and i didn't do anything different for that i already have changed its diameter back here to the middle of the tolerance so let's get to the machine a little bit too high just kind of get it started in there wiggle it up in there a little bit and it won't fall out now it kind of is captured good enough with the jaws i can take the strap out get rid of the crane now i can kind of work it up in here i'm just going to work it up in here to the end of this bushing right there and i'm going to start snugging up the jaws not going to tighten them very tight because i want to be able to tap this thing around a little bit you're going to see in a minute i got to tap the flange to run true in the back here i'll put the tool holder i used for the indicator here i'm going to index the b axis down 45 [Music] i'm going to use this other center rapid indicator here only because my other one is is acting up on me for some weird reason so let's see if i can use this one and do what i need to do maybe we'll see i've got a um i may have to buy another one and then get that one uh [Music] get that one repaired because it's a i don't know if there's something weird with it it's acting up you can actually see it easier than i can because i'm like that's that's kind of like why i like to use the vertical indicator because i can kind of point it out towards me here okay this is uh that's going into the indicator [Music] so i'm going to hit it down here on the bottom of the flange i'm gonna kind of re-zero this i'm not worrying about the run out in the chuck yet i'm gonna get this fairly close it might not be flat on it you can kind of see a little bit of undulation in the indicator because the the actual flange isn't perfectly flat so right there i don't really want to hit into the indicator so i'm going to hit on the bottom of the part here okay i'll get this within a oh i mean it's kind of jump there that's weird if i get this within a thousandth or a couple of thousands really it should should be good enough for the tolerances that we're dealing with here see that's on zero like i say the flange isn't perfectly flat you can kind of see here's where one of the chuck jaws from the first operation you might be able to see that right there the marks the jaw left and you can see that kind of makes the part move a little bit because the pressure on those jaws because i turn these parts without any tail stock or anything and and i want to have those jaws pretty tight okay i'm kind of happy with that for right now now we're going to change to the other indicator and start getting our rent out we'll we'll have to go i like to use this one inch travel indicator by the way for doing this as opposed to that other one because it has obviously more travel and the parts running out more than that probably more than that indicator can handle travel wise i don't know if i can do this with the camera here let's see try it it might be that my wrench okay it's actually we're running pretty good only running out about six thousandths of an inch so the bottom needs to be tightened up i'm gonna re-zero the indicator right there i may have to tighten i'm fairly close to zero so i'm gonna tighten this jaw on the bottom push that up towards the indicator i'm going to go beyond zero i don't want to get too carried away here actually though because i might still have to i might still have to tap the part okay this i don't know if you can see anything like that probably see the wrench real good i re-zero myself here with the x-axis i don't want to that's not too bad on that set of jaws this one i'm going to come up with a little more okay i think i'm going to stop right there for that now i'm going to check the flange again on the back of the flange with the other indicator [Music] this is actually better for you guys to be able to see it here because the other one the light reflects off it but it's it's more difficult for me to see what's happening here okay see you just tightening those jaws made that run out a little bit so that is going away from the indica i think that's away yeah and so this is coming into the indicator to see if i can move it here [Music] i have to hit it quite a bit harder sort of hitting a glancing blow on the bottom of the jaw on the part here so i don't want to i don't want to hit it into the indicator i don't like doing that oh what am i doing i'm hitting on the wrong side got to get the maximum deviation in that direction i can't really hit it on top here it wouldn't i wouldn't mind hitting it here like this but i can't do that particularly with the camera being right there i got that one spot that's a little bit warped on this flange you can kind of see it there the um tightening those jaws distorted this flange a little bit it wasn't there's a spot right there where it runs out more than it was before i had those jaws tied that might be as good as it's going to get see there's this one spot right there that unfortunately it's kind of like the flange is warped or something let's see if i can hit it [Music] wow a little bit difficult to do with this camera right here i want to hit the dial indicator i might have to live with that right there that's that's good enough for the tolerance of the part i might be just getting a little too picky here okay so let's check the od again real quick make sure that's not too far off might have to tweak something there a little maybe we'll see we kind of just re-zero that out there hopefully this is running true enough it's running within a thousandth of an inch i'm not going to do anything to it looks like it is i hope you could see that maybe maybe i should turn that indicator more towards the camera maybe you can see that a little better you can move this over here see that's running pretty good uh the back of the flange what was it running out about almost two thousands in one little spot but it's kind of a little bit warm and that's due to these uh you can see the marks right here maybe see that where the solid jaws were on here and they're they're pulling the part back like this whenever these jaws in them in a master jaw in a chuck right here when you chuck onto something this jaw pivots back particularly soon as i had the jaws about halfway out there's not as much bearing on the on the slots in the chuck and it pushes out and when that happens the part hits up maybe against the face of the jaws and it gets pulled back so when you release the pressure on those jaws when you have them that's as tight as i had them it kind of warps this this flange will spring back a little bit after you machine it and in this case it's not critical not really doesn't really matter but uh it's just something to be aware of if you have to hold you know very close tolerances you put this the hammer indicator in here what we're going to do is we're going to bring the the b-axis to 90 degrees so we can touch off on the back of here because we know where this is the front of that we don't know where anything is [Music] i'm going to bring this to y 0 although technically that shouldn't be totally necessary bring this up be careful i don't jog it into the part now on this machine let me show you something here you see this area right back here you got to be kind of careful when you're doing stuff like this because you can run the machine into things especially right there somebody actually right here somebody did it before before i on the machine and this was all bent over these these little flanges and so i just cut it out and actually it helps drain cooling and shaving to get out of there a little easier because that catches shavings up there anyway but it's been run into i don't know if you can make out the if i get the camera closer you can see and and i hammered this out i took this steel thing off of here when i was doing something to the machine and there was a big dent right here see where you can you can run that thing right into there because the the travel the machine it does have a limit of travel so it'll only go that far you can see up here with the tool changer door and and it's up against the limit switch right now it's a soft limit but it can it can run into something down this direction i'm not going to jog it down there because i hit my indicator but but uh so you kind of got to be careful of that kind of stuff with this machine and particularly if you're turning with tools or milling back here close to the jaws you can hit that thing up there on something it's not if you're not kind of paying attention to that so i'm going to jog this up to zero on the back of this flange now this is one and a half inches from the zero of the of the um face of the part or one and a half inches from the finished face of the part so now that we got that on zero we'll go over here see if i can do this and we want to go to work offset we want to bring our z offset down here and then we want to teach we want to teach one and a half inches positive which we enter over here push input and that'll change that number if we hit reset we should be setting at minus one and a half inches with our with our indicator at zero there so our actual zero is out here one and a half inches so that's the way i set that and that way it'll make the part of an inch and a half thick here [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] ah [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] so [Music] uh [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] i don't know if you've noticed but i um i found that if i spray this this rain-x in the airline coming up to the camera that it kind of helps the you get these streaks coming across the lens but it kind of covers it or um what did i say no it kind of makes it clearer i don't know if you notice that in the video i'm i'm kind of pulling the air nozzle i mean the air connector out of the compressor and spraying some of this in it in the line and just plugging it back in and then it blows the rain-x up into the um the air knife deal on the on the camera so i'm thinking i'm getting an idea if i could bleed some of this i don't know a mist of this or a fine amount of this into the airline it would uh it would help me be able to film under those higher coolant conditions maybe i've been experimenting with that a little bit i need to have some way to inject a consistent amount a very small amount into the air coming up into the camera that might that might work i don't know but anyway we got to get this out of here now like i showed you earlier i got this bushing thing in here that's holding uh or around the part i should say like i said on an earlier video part of the reason for that is i can kind of slide this out of here enough to get a strap on it in front of the chuck like this i know you can't really see but i'm putting the strap just in between the part and the chuck jaw the other day the crane guys came out and tested all the cranes for their capacity [Music] to um certify their capacity and and they were this has gotten broken this plastic enclosure around the cranes buttons and they said they would bring some stuff out and repair this this is kind of a little bit dangerous i've had people even mention this kind of stuff in in previous videos and comments and i realize it's if you if you grab onto this thing you can shock yourself so you got to be careful but uh on on that on that same note they tested both of the hoists and they uh they passed a their load test by both of my cranes are um two ton or four thousand pound crane they test it with 125 percent of that so 5 000 pounds of weight and tested [Music] anyway this is a very simple part and i wanted to show this example of programming and setup on a simple piece otherwise the the video be kind of long and people that aren't used to doing this kind of work i know a lot of you guys that watch my channel already do machine work and yes i know this could probably be done faster in a lot of different ways i could have programmed it in straight mesa troll which actually i rarely use i usually mostly use the cam software when i'm doing a this machine on even though it does have a conversational format on the mesotroll controller i i prefer using my cam software because i can get things the way i want and i can see a simulation on the software that is much more precise than the than the safety barriers on the mazak here and you have to define them every time you change something like chuck jaws and this and uh it's just easier to do in the cam software but i do realize that for simple turning jobs like this just this was mostly just turning and putting some holes it's um it's a lot quicker to do on the mesotroll this kind of job but some of these other jobs i've shown in videos that long titanium part with all the holes and all the angle holes and everything that turns out to be much more difficult to do on mesotroll than it does on the cam software so there's kind of a balance there um and you know people make comment oh i could program this in in two minutes no you can't program even this part in two minutes on major troll don't even talk like that i mean you could probably do it in 10 or 15 minutes and it'd be fine but two minutes no you can't i'm sorry so anyway this is the completed part as i demonstrated in this little uh set of videos on on this thing there's there's a i'm making actually um two other versions of a kind of similar shaft over here let me get the camera i'll show you so that's that's the part that's in the machine that i just finished that style and then there's these two other ones and these two longer ones and these have um holes on the end of them here that have to be in aligned to the to the holes in the flange so what i typically do here you can see it right here is put this little i mill this little um alignment hole here so i can indicate this when i turn the part around and make sure that what i did on the end of the part over there lines up to these holes in the flange here it just this isn't even where the part is it gets machined away now there's different ways to do this you could do it like this or you could mill a flat on here this is just a little bit hard when the insert cuts into it on the roughing tool but it's not that bad it's very small a little hole there and it's only about 100 000 steep so anyway that's i gotta finish these up but this is the part if you can see down the hole i board this hole on this part because i don't have it well i think i mentioned it before i don't have a drill this size and the boring leaves a lot nicer finish in here than a drill would and i also milled these holes but there again i didn't have a 0.780 drill and so i had a 0.720 drill and then i just milled them out this point 780 and and it ends up looking nicer and i think the holes might be in a slightly better location doing that so this is that bushing thing that i put in between the part and the jaws so it doesn't ding the part up and i can kind of wrestle it in and out of there see there's a lot of shavings that get up in there and you can easily miss some of those and then you tighten the jaws down on the part and you damp the part and i didn't want to do that and you can see even still this aluminum these jaws i didn't bother to bore them precisely they already are about this size and with the four jaw chuck you don't really have to worry too much about that so i didn't re-board the jaws you could re-boil those jaws and if you're real careful keeping things clean you wouldn't need this of course but like i say dragging the part in and out of the chuck like that you're going to scratch it if you're not very careful and i don't like my parts to have a bunch of scratches and everything all over them or dense you know i see people on youtube believe not you know they're they're drilling in the milling vise and stuff and they're just flipping the part around and they're not cleaning the jaws or on the drill press or whatever you know not cleaning the table all these shavings they're just drilling into there and and uh man to myself i just can't really do that i gotta keep things clean so i don't have um you know so the finishes end up looking nice i didn't put chamfers on i could have programmed chamfers on these holes i know somebody will comment on that but um you know and go through here with a back chamfer tool but to me for two parts i'm just going to debur it with a hand grinder it's just you know or you could even use a whirly burr on here and it's just easier and i don't want to go to the trouble of having to set that tool up and everything to have to do all that so that's the part i can put the other one in the chuck and run the program it's they go pretty quick on the second time you run the first program and you got to be a little more careful you don't know 100 what's gonna happen on the second one you can kind of run through it quicker [Music] you

Channel: Edge Precision

Views: 219,389

Keywords: edge, edge precision, mazak, Mazak integrex, mill, turn, indicator, 4 jaw chuck, job shop machine work, turning, milling, mill turn, machine shop, dial indicator, crane, operation, machine operation, plan a job

Id: tcYcSpoEe-k

Length: 48min 54sec (2934 seconds)

Published: Thu Jun 17 2021