9.5" Inch 4140 Gearbox Shaft Part 1

[Music] welcome back to the shop guys we've got us another heavy metal machining project here another gearbox shaft this is very similar to the one that I've already shown on the channel called it's in a video series called heavy metal machine II this particular material right here is nine and a half inches in diameter it's just a rough casted or hot rolled finish anyway nine and a half inches in diameter sixty two and a half inches long it'll finish out about 62 inches weighs approximately 1250 pounds and this is a forty one forty heat treated and stress relief really good material for for making high-strength shafts it's a very very well machinable these are good finishes makes good chips this is the project at hand and what I'm doing on the bore mill is just finding the center of it just just finding the center in averaging it out and I'll put a center hole here that way I can go straight to the lathe with it and use a lot of Center and then I skin a spot down here for the steady rust to set to it and then I'll go back in and we'll drill and tap it with drilling tap both ends for an eyebolt probably use a 3/4 eyeball here and we do that so that the technicians when they're and when they want to set this down into the gear and also set it down into the gearbox itself they'll have a place in the center to put in aa bolt in it holds it straight up and down we got a little bit of heavy turning to do on this and I hope you guys enjoy it follow along and I'll I'll show you the process of machining this shaft [Music] [Music] [Music] as well hot rolled material looks like it's not straight it's not perfectly round so whenever you're dealing with a with a shaft like this you just want to focus on the ends the end of the shaft the other end of the shop and get true areas get your face true your Center in there and then work off of that so what we'll do is we'll turn a true spot here put the steady rest on it and then we're gonna face the end of the shaft do our drill it in tap and recenter it then we'll flip it around do the same thing on the other side pick it up it yeah it's working pretty good preciate it all that help man we got about five eighths of an inch to face it to length I'm taking 1/8 depth of cuts there using that MC k NR tool I believe I'll check that and put it up on screen there thought I would add while we're making this cut I have a lot of guys leave comments about the rust the rust on the shaft wouldn't it be better if you remove the rust before you take cuts in the battle carbide look if you get underneath that rust that rust isn't gonna bother you if you're just taking along and you're slicing through the rust with the tip of your tool and it may start affecting you get to get the insert underneath it and you'll be fine that's just surface rust on there I have an area marked right here that we're gonna cut an undercut to set the steady rest on you do have to have some support with the steady rest whenever you're machining these to help keep the vibration out of it because it will try to chatter on you so this is our location right here and I picked this spot verses down there because it's offset that area that's the largest diameter you know you can put it anywhere you want on this on either end I use this in because this is the least amount of run-out compared to down there I'm getting my tool set to my first shoulder-length this will be the shoulder where the bearing goes up to I was going to show you this little trick that I use right here I've got the tip of the tool lined up my shoulder length I want is 22 and 3/4 of an inch I'll line up on the line and I'll back off about ten thousandths I set an indicator over here for a zero but I've got to I've got the scale kind of wedged in there on that little guard if you look right there I got a mighty mag stuck to the end of the shaft out and the scale up against it right there and it holds the end nice and square as well that's a nice way that you can hold the end even with the face if you want to set a tool to a specific length it right there [Music] [Music] I left material in the shoulder right here so that we can machine that into a radius but what I want to do is I want to face the shoulder linked to the link that I want so got the Motty mag stuck to the end of the shaft here and make sure you file this off because when you turn it it rolls over I'm squaring up the end of the scale there and my finished length I want from there to this space is 22 and 3/4 and I'm looking at the 30 seconds divisions and I have 1/32 of an inch to come off to about 30,000 32,000 somewhere in it will go you know 30 to 35 and that's a good way to get a length on these right here guy I get guys asking me about that kind of stuff the face linked to that shoulder isn't super critical your critical dimension is going to be from this shoulder to the other shoulder with the where the both races get sweated on and we'll use calipers and mics to make sure that those shoulders are the exact same as the factory-made shap but you know if you're a few thousands all from here out to the end of the shaft that's it they ain't going to kill you okay get that faced and it will undercut the area with a eight and a half inch diameter output part of the shaft is I'm taking a couple light cuts down to our rough size for eight and a half so I'm gonna finish it about 8.5 50 somewhere around there all the journals get left over size about 50 to 60 thousandths before our finishes the other thing I'm doing is what I'll be doing after this cut is checking the straightness of it and I may need to tweak the tailstock over here a little bit so we'll see got these two roughed in we've got our shoulder link where we need to be so we're going to flip it around start rough it in that side show it to thousands there I want to go ahead and move the steady rest and trim that and true it back up I'm setting my shoulder distance for this next bearing shoulder right here and when I was telling you before this is the accurate measurement that will take using calipers so in 7/16 is what the distance is between the two so I'm using my hook scale now hooking the shoulder I'm not on that stepped area down there I'm on the actual shoulder and I got my tool lined up with seven and a half just eyeballing it got a zero set that's going to give us you know a sixteenth there to clean it up to where it needs to be give yourself a little bit of room there to clean it up not not turn directly up to your finished size there and from this point to the other end of the shaft that's going to be I believe it was 31 and 3/16 of an inch I'll check that next and see how close we are so it should put us about 31 and 1/4 to this tool I was just showing you how you can put that night my team agon the end the holds the end of your scale and you just got to make sure it's square okay there we go now I told you wrong a second ago it wasn't it it wasn't going to be 31 and a quarter it likes to be 31 and 1/8 need to subtract it instead of at it alright so there we are we're on a 31 and 1/8 of an inch so we're good on shoulder-length will give us 1/16 to clean this face up [Applause] [Applause] [Music] this is where our critical shoulder like this and the old shaft measure is exactly seven point four three seven all right so I'm going to set another tool in there and face that out until we get to that measurement right there I just faced this shoulder here to the right size so that's good what I'm doing is I'm setting up to my next stop that I want to stop the cut out this is going to be for our bearing journal that's going to go here now this is a visual reference that I do I use up I use a sharpie turn the lathe on and just mark it like that let it drop for a few seconds and then I come up I've got my zero set where I want I just touch it with a tool like that now that gives me a nice visual reference to co2 whenever you're making these long cuts like this it can it can be confusing and you'll forget that you have a stop coming up somewhere real soon because you're looking at this entire cut right here we don't have any more heavy but roughing dust to make so I switched over to it that's a CNM G 432 insert taking 100,000 that's going to bring us down come on ruff sighs for the bearing journal there I'm also still tweaking this tail stock here to try to get it to cut perfectly straight it changes a couple thousands every time using a nova mini cool to try to keep the insert cool and also the tool does I've got a little brass piece of shim stock there held on with a mighty mag just to help block the chips from applying out that way keep them all in paint over here on the machine [Music] all right it's time to turn this intersection true that's the last area this is the section between a bearing and the gear actually and where we run the steady rest I want to get it trued up and then we're going to take this thing out of the machine flip it around and we're going to start doing our finish turning lines all I did was just touch off on the hot spot without than 200 and I've got it set to a 23 [Music] [Music] [Music] you

Channel: Abom79

Views: 2,515,904

Rating: 4.6960335 out of 5

Keywords: abom79, gearbox shaft, gearbox repair, 4140 shaft, chromoly shaft, kearns boring mill, horizontal boring mill, american pacemaker, lathe, engine lathe, pacemaker lathe, steady rest, adjusting a steady rest, heavy turning, chip control, iscar, comg insert, indicating, large shaft, heavy machining, large machine work, large lathe

Id: xXIvoGRHEoU

Length: 30min 52sec (1852 seconds)

Published: Sat Sep 09 2017

Reddit Comments

[u/eltonnovs]

Adam can't be posted enough, he really is an awesome metalworker and great guy overal. I don't own a lathe, don't do metalworking and a lot of times I haven't got a clue what he's talking about... But I still really enjoy his videos.

[u/llIIllIllIIlIllIIIlI]

Damn. You got me excited thinking he had posted new heavy metal turning.