(upbeat music) - Have you ever wondered
how to light something up with any color you want? In this video, we're gonna
show you how to do it and not be cheesy. This is a high-end look. This is what luxury homes die for. We're gonna show you
the tricks of the trade. That's money dude. What I want to do is open this thing up and then I want to pour
pretty much clear to the top. And then just go ahead and do a top coat that's translucent right
there, but give it some color and then shine some light through it so it's like a giant kitchen nightlight. All I'm doing is just
going through wherever there's bare spots now and
having a little fun with it. You're doing this for a
customer, this is what you do for a living. Show your customers this
video, show them what it takes, it's gonna build value in your build. It's gonna bring something from a normal countertop to way over the top and that demands value, right? I mean, if you're gonna get
a back-lit piece of stone, you're gonna pay some money. It can be done for as little as $20. You're not gonna believe
how simple this act is. It's a construction piece of gold. It's a gold nugget. We're gonna teach you
all the steps right now. Guys, we're in a
multimillion dollar build. In this video, you're
gonna learn step by step, a countertop masterclass that will save or make you thousands. It'll also save 10X your time. Stay tuned, everything is
included right here, right now. You got this. Yeah, 12 to 15 is your typical overhang but I'm gonna go arch here. I'm gonna go here. I'm gonna arch it. I'm gonna put my four
foot sheet right here. I'm sorry, right here 'cause you want your kennel lever piece, you want full. And then this is fully supported. You're only gonna have an
inch and a half overhang. So we'll do a small piece on this side. Saw guide time. Okay. You ready? Pro tip on measuring. If you use your T-square
right to your measurement, you don't have to put like a
little line and then measure. It's perfect every time. I wanna cut something straight 'cause this is gonna be a seam to a factory cut on a piece of plywood. I want it really tight. And so I'm gonna use my saw
guide and get a perfect cut on site as if I brought a panel saw, but it's a lot cheaper than a panel saw. Heck, it's a lot cheaper than
every saw guide on the market and it's a straight cut
every time, let's go. I like that it doesn't move from my tracks so I'm trying to get around this stuff Okay, your way?
- Eight my way - All right to do a three
point arc where you get an arch in your countertop, you
need three measurements. You need your center point
and the apex of your arch. And then you need your two minor points or the low points on that arc. In this case, I have a 17 inch
overhang on the high point and 12 all the way over here. That way I get really
cool seating and just adds a little bit of an extra look. But remember I have a post coming in. So that post is also gonna
be thrown in the mix. Let's see how this thing
lays out, let's try it. That looks pretty true. - That looks great. - You like that? Guys, I'm getting the
boss, which is AKA my wife. If any of you are doing remodel projects, here's how you get what you want approved. Make something that you don't want, ask your wife if she likes it and then lead her to what you want and because it's her idea,
she'll say yes, I'm I wrong? - No - That was mean, all right,
let's see if it works. This is what I wanted, let's
see what the wife says. Here we go. What do you think, we need your professional opinion on this. We've got an arch here. Four legs, the whole
thing, what do you think? - It's freaking awesome. I think it looks amazing. - Sweet, MDF time. We're gonna double it up now. Type bond two wood glue, MDFs. Let's do this. We flipped the island over
and we're gonna go ahead and laminate the plywood to the MDF. We cut the MDF out and I
grew it a little bit more. I didn't like that big jargon that you saw prior to that adjustment. We're gonna fill that
in with some plywood. Another pro tip, we've stayed away from our inch and a half allowance. Reason we've done that is
so when you rub your fingers underneath the countertop,
you don't feel those screws Again, that's why I
like the rock face edge. That little lip does not matter. So guys pro tip, lay your pieces down. I'm gonna trace the
inside of my sink cabinet. 'Cause our setback is different. We are gonna have an extra
large setback because I grew this out 'cause I didn't like the look of that step in. I'm gonna go ahead and draw that. And then we're gonna dry fit our sink. After that, we're gonna
possibly make a cut in this top so that I can
have light come through and do like a translucent pour in there. I think that would look really cool having some light come
through as if it was like a glowing crystal in your countertop. Now we'll get our template and
put that template in there. I think I should go this way
instead of that way, right? A one and a quarter overhang. So we wanna catch that front lip, But you wanna make sure
that this lip is the same as your front edge, so
six and seven eights. Six and seven eight, I
like that right there. So we'll go ahead and
make that my front edge. I like it. - [Narrator] Now that the
sink has been laid out, use a drill bit in the four corners to create a perfect radius for the sink. Use a jigsaw or circular
soft to finish your cuts. So the little corners, we
just have to sand to that. - [Narrator] Sand to the saw
marks out of the seat cut with 100 to 220 grit sandpaper. Use the sander or a
router to round the top and bottom edges of the seat cut-out. This encourages the
epoxy to flow perfectly for a uniform seek-edge. - I get the difference right there. That's why you router, look
at how professional that look. All we're gonna do here is just make a smooth edge with Bondo. We'll sand it but I'll
get it as smooth as I can with the spreader, we'll come
back and sand it, perfect. I'm just using 220 grit sandpaper by hand so I don't burn through
the top or bottom edge. I'm making that Bondo nice and smooth where my two pieces were laminated. That's gonna look really good. - [Narrator] We used
this sharp utility knife to make a rock-face edge
for this kitchen island. The process was really simple. At different angles and at
different stroke lengths, cut the MDF around the
perimeter of the island. These cuts can be rough and uneven. Keep from cutting the same
pattern for a more natural look. When a granite slab has a
rock-face chiseled edge, there's never a uniform pattern. Mix up enough Bondo that you
feel comfortable applying before that Bondo starts to cure. Start with small batches,
add in the hardener cream and mix per the
manufacturer's instructions. Apply the Bondo with a gloved
hand or a Bondo spreader. As the Bondo starts to thicken,
add in some visual interest and remove any man-made look
using your gloved hands. Allow the Bondo to dry before
sanding down any sharp points with 100 to 220 grit sandpaper
on a random orbital sander. Quick coat epoxy with a small
amount of our epoxy thickener is what we are using
to fill this MDF scene. The first step is to
measure and mix quick coat for two minutes. Next, add in our proxy thickener, only a small amount as needed then mix again to incorporate. Pour out the thickened
epoxy over the scene. Keep the epoxy heavy over your seam. We will send that back down perfectly flat when the quick coat dries. we can come back and sand
in as little as three hours. - The radius, it looks like,
because how we usually do it, the grinder it's not as chatter, it's not. And that looks more chiseled. - Man, it does. - And it was pretty easy. It's really easy. I just saturate my roller
and do the edges first. This is something that you
literally can do yourself, save thousands of
dollars, have fun doing it and if you wanna change it up, you're not stuck with that color granite for time and all eternity 'cause it didn't cost you
your first born child. So if you wanna change
the look, not a problem, change the look, no big deal. All right, guys, we'll let this dry and we're ready to coat. Guys, did you see the
video a couple of years ago for my showroom? I cut a piece out so that I could have led light come through it. I liked that concept, but
I wanna really conceal it. What I wanna do is open this thing up and then I wanna pour pretty
much clear to the top. And then just go ahead and do a top coat that's translucent right
there, but gives it some color and then shine some light through it so it's like a giant kitchen nightlight. You're doing this for a customer. If this is what you do for a
living, show your customers this video, show them what it takes. It's gonna build value in your build. It's gonna bring something
from a normal countertop to way over the top and that demands value, right?
- Yes. I mean, if you're gonna get
a back-lit piece of stone, you gonna pay some money. That's freaking set. I'm grabbing some contact paper. What we're gonna do is
use this as a release. I'm gonna put a band-aid
underneath this countertop to hold the super cast from leaking. We're gonna create
basically a river table here and we're gonna use contact
paper as the easy release. Here we go. Hold it right there Guys, we've used Tyvek
tape, we've we've used wax, we've used silicone, all kinds of different
releases and shelf liner. It's definitely the cheapest way to go and probably the most effective too. So you're finding that hot
glue is just insurance, so that it won't leak and then
I'll Tyvek tape over that. - Yeah, we're good. - So we got three layers of protection. Here we go. Guys, we're using super
cast to refill this hole and we're gonna fill
this in one giant pour, not multiple layers. So this is designed to be poured thick. Our counter cut material
is designed to be poured one eighth of an inch or less. This is a two to one
ratio on the super cup. Two part A, to one part B We're basically making a window. - [Narrator] Use masking
tape to create a dam to keep your epoxy color
techniques right in place. Remove the tape when the epoxy thickens two to three hours after mixing. This step is optional
but worth the effort. Your edges and countertop
will look fantastic. We like to do two layers, keeping
the tape above the surface and one more row sealing the bottom. - We're pouring in the wood shop. That's dangerous. It's not designated for pouring. As you can see, we've taken some time. We've covered the floor,
we've covered our table. We got the countertop completely ready. We've got the edges taped. We've got the center taped right here. We're doing that because
we want to do two pores and then meld them together. This one's gonna be opaque,
this one's gonna be translucent. Let's try to hide that together
and we do it in one shot. But by putting that dam,
it gives it equal pressure. So we're able to pour this and
then they meet in the middle at the old Georgia pine. Over here, we're gonna go
ahead and mix our materials. We're gonna make sure
we don't transfer a mess from here to here. Everything is prior planning,
preventing poor performance. If we're ready to go
and we're not gonna trip and make a mess, don't get
in a rush to mix that epoxy, get your piece prepped, get
it level, get ready to go, and you'll have a successful pour that's stress free, let's go. You can start mixing these. I'm gonna start with
the black and white base for the perimeter. And then I'm gonna add color in the center with the spray paint. - [Narrator] We are using Stone Coat's exotic pour color technique
for today's island. This is the easiest way to make
the most realistic looking, mother nature made it marble countertops. - And it gets that propellant down there to help it sell. - [Worker] Is this your light bucket? - [Narrator] Randomly
pour the tinted epoxy back into your larger mixing bucket. Take the time to spray some
accent colors of spray paint between some layers, the
Rust-Oleum spray paints, metallic powders and epoxy dyes, all fight one another to create
a very beautiful countertop. - And I'm gonna do
criss-cross apple sauce. I'm gonna move it in a random way. And then I come back with the dark bucket to fill in the blanks. Anybody can do this. - [Narrator] Pour out
the large mixing bucket in a random pattern over your countertop. There's no need to be in a rush. Stone Coat epoxy was designed for the DIY and is very user-friendly. You have tons of time
to work with the epoxy. There is even more time for
that epoxy to self level, as smooth as a sheet of glass. - I really liked having a
contrast in buckets man. All I'm doing is just going through wherever there's bare spots now and having a little fun with it. - [Worker] Dang, that's a
cool color, what's in there? - [Mike] Some of that lagoon
and black and a little bit of a brass man. - [Narrator] Folks, jump on
over to the epoxy color center. We have hundreds of color options. We hand-selected these
colors for the realistic and vivid results in your epoxy project. - Same color family, different techniques. - [Narrator] Mike had a great idea here using the contrast in
mini exotic pour cups made up of leftover epoxy
and added small veins all over the island. Keep this technique in your back pocket. It was the cherry on
top knocking this island out of the park, what you think Mike? - Ah, that's money, dude. I like the dark on the
light for the veins man, cobalt blue for the rescue baby. Guys, we're trying to
keep the interior part of this translucent. So I've put a little bit
of ocean blue dye in. I'm gonna make it exotic
pour that stays translucent. I hope this comes out. We have it lit so that we could see if we cover the light too much. We've got the diamond dust. We've got the blue, I'm doing a change up from our countertops. This is gonna be a contrasting piece. Let's see how it comes out. Think that's a pretty
color for the middle. We've got a translucent bucket. We're gonna pour that
in the center right now. Guys, have you subscribed
to our YouTube channel. We teach tips, tools and
techniques to save you 10 extra time and money. This is no joke. We're gonna teach you how to
build islands, countertops, tabletops, desktops, floors, showers, waterfall features, rocks, and more. We have the knowledge that you need. These are gold nuggets
to save you thousands. Let's pour. Try to keep the drips out of it. It's gonna be cool. Okay, here we go. No time like the present. - [Narrator] This is one
of my favorite techniques and it adds the best
layer of realistic detail. Mike is applying our gratified effect. Use black gloss Rust-Oleum spray paint to fork sections of the island followed by misting 91% ice purple alcohol to fracture and sell the spray paint. Fog heavy or light for a different look. Tint the clear alcohol with any of our metallic powder colors. - What I'm I gonna call it? I like it. - [Narrator] We're gonna
let this epoxy cure and come back in three hours
to remove the tape dam. By then, the epoxy will be thicker, the color techniques will
stay right where you see them but still flow over those
edges nice and even. Use a popsicle or paint
stick to scrape the bottom of the drips. - All right, I'm back. It's been about three and a half hours. It's time to peel that tape. My tape dam has been extremely successful. It worked perfectly, not a single leak. Pieces looking great, Mike, good job. - Lay it and then pick it. Go ahead. - [Narrator] It's time
to remove any cure drips from the bottom of the countertop. Use a multi-tool like Mike used, or you can use a 50 grit metal fiber disc on a grinder or even a
random orbital sander. - Remember all your pressure
is going to the back elbow of the roller so that
as you roll away from the tip of your roller,
you're automatically removing the lap lines. That's the key, is we're
gonna add enough water to let it thin out, we're gonna back roll. And I like to do it two or three times with brand new rollers. That way we remove those lap lines. It's a very tight finish. Basically, we're adding it heavy and then we're working to
remove all that heavy top coat. Why do we add it heavy if we want it thin? It's so we don't miss a section. If you apply it too thin,
you actually skip sections and they'll stay shiny. These are all pro tips. This is how you apply
the ultimate top coat. This is that final step
that gives you depth, durability, a natural sheen. This top coat is my
favorite on planet earth. And it's what makes the
Stone Coat Countertop system actually come to life. Here we go. Is that about what you would have done? I'm gonna give myself a bead. Oh, that's a lot. And I'm gonna give you
a bead over here, ready? I'll start down here
and get away from you. - Good amount though,
Mike, I think on here. - Do those edges as you can. I'm gonna start back
rolling the whole thing. Wet roller back rolling. Just getting a consistent layer. I don't feel rushed. I feel like we got plenty of time. Now we're just going light. We're trying to remove
material at this point. When you put that roller
down on your elbow, you do not want to push too hard guys. Look at how much tighter
that gets it automatically. Okay guys. This is where the
money happens right here. This is where you get a tight finish. Now I'm gonna start going with the grain. I'm gonna start going
with the grain powder and that way, nothing jumps out to the eye that this is man-rolled. So that's really starting to get sticky so I'm not gonna risk and dry roll again. I think I'm gonna call that good. That was not bad. I mean, we spent about an
hour and a half on this this morning and it's gonna
be ready to install tomorrow. This is a showpiece man. Guys, what do you think? What do you think this
would cost in natural stone? Let me know in the comments below. You got this. So doing led lights, it definitely throws an X factor into your build. We overcame anything, but
I'd say it's worth it man. All right, let's get this thing squared up and I'll screw it down. Two by twos, slide up there and they catch the rim of that sink. You just come just a
little bit below the sink and you never see them, but you know what? Your sink never comes down. Let's cut out a hole for the faucet. I like that sink in there, dude. This will be a nice food prep sink though. Wash your hand sink,
seven and seven eights, seven and 15 sixteenths. Just kidding, that's perfect. All we're doing here guys is just winding a bit of silicone around the perimeter just to lock this thing in place. If we ever wanna move it,
we would just score that, undo those two screws, and we would have this
thing off in five minutes, really fast install this way. And I'm using white tape on the rim. Sometimes on that delicate surface, it releases a little easier. It won't hurt your cabinets but when you're really tooling this in, you want it to be strong. We hope you learned some
new epoxy techniques and DIY skills that will
get you headed down the road to save thousands on your next DIY project with Stone Coat epoxy. Thanks for watching everybody from Stone Coat Countertops. You've got this and we'll
see you on the next video.
