Kitchen Remodel Tips To Save Money | A to Z

hey guys it's jeff from homerenovation here and today we are bringing a video to i think is gonna be really valuable it's going to be all about kitchens how to remodel a kitchen for less than three thousand dollars yep you got it not everybody's in a huge renovation marketplace and so today's video is dedicated for how will you make your kitchen fresh and new and gorgeous again without spending a fortune bottom line we don't have a kitchen to do this video on so what we're doing is we're combining a lot of information from different videos that we've done and we're going to give you the real cost less than 3 000 bucks you can remodel your kitchen and make it look brand new and spectacular yes it can be done so we're going to go into the video series to show you all the tips and tricks so you can accomplish that goal and you can do it yourself so one of the most dramatic things that you can do in your home for increasing not only just the value but its physical appearance and your durability is to paint your kitchen cabinets so let's get into this because there's a lot of ground to cover there are a lot of different kinds of cabinets that are made and let's start with the doors because you have two basic things going on you have a door and you've got the box in this case our door is solid wood and our box is a melamine or a particle board with a vinyl finish on it okay so you have a lot of different kinds of surfaces that all need to be treated differently when you're painting your project now solid wood is simple it's wood right you're going to paint it but this product here right away you know this has got a state it's like a white washed oak if this was a new product then white washed oak might be a water-based stain it might be an oil-based stain so that's the first question you've got to solve because no matter how much sanding you do on oak because of the texture you're always going to have some of that finish sitting there unless you use a chemical stripper so sanding isn't enough you need to know what products you're going to use so that you get the right kind of bond now before we get started we want to take out go up to the bathroom and steal this from your wife or if you use this yourself make sure that you have a nail polish remover with acetone or you might even have acetone in your garage for basic cleaning and what you want to do is just take this and rub it on the surface of the door and see if anything comes off in that case that's a no if acetone doesn't remove the surface then the surface is oil based problem solved and i can demonstrate that by doing this because the client had previously done some paint work here okay there we go now there's the brown paint that she had put on the inside of that door as a test for color and she hated it by the way but just to demonstrate that that problem that technique works really well for helping you identify if it's going to be a water base or an oil based product once we have that problem solved we know how to move forward with our products but the techniques are interesting wood you use light sanding with the vinyl you have to go extremely light sanding and you have to use the right kind of primer so we'll get into all those products later in the project but for now let's start from the beginning and what you need to do to prep your kitchen first of all what we need to do is we need to remove all the doors because you don't want to do the painting in the room you're working in this is going to take a few days and it's going to make a lot of mess so what you want to do is you want to find a place in your house where you can set up a station to paint all of these things depending on the time of year and the temperature and the humidity you might want to use a garage you might be able to use the basement you might be able to just throw some tarps down in your living room and set up a workstation there but i would suggest not trying to do this job in the kitchen because you still need to live and that means you need to eat so what i want to do is i want to make my life simple because there are so many doors and drawers i want to just get a piece of tape on everything in this kitchen and i want to mark down my numbers i stop from the start in the top left just like reading a book left to right and you number everything off so everything goes back where it came from that way you don't have to readjust all your doors and drawers after you reinstall them because they're going to be able to be in the same condition as they're in now okay so the beginning of the project is quite simple now we have all of our doors numbered we have a workstation set up that we're going to be doing all the work in and we now have to remove all of these doors most of the hardware nowadays is really simple it has a quick release tab on the back okay and you can just pop it off now if that's not the case you might have hardware where you've got to put your phillips bit on an adjustable screw here and you can slide it off and leave the hardware on the wall your worst case scenario if that's not the case and it's it's a hinge that's screwed to the cabinet and then screwed to the door and it doesn't have a releasing mechanism you may need to undo the screws that are attached to your door and then remove the door from the hardware entirely and leave all the hardware attached to the cabinet that's fine if you have a cabinet that's got a picture frame or a surface that's going to get painted as well so we want to remove all the hardware from all of our surfaces and that's as simple as pulling the screws and try not to lose them there we go and you'll see that they just pop right out okay now just a quick note if you have a kitchen cabinet that has an ikea hinge on it it has a locking cam mechanism that actually causes little rubber pieces in the back here to expand so all you do is you would take a knife and pry that locking mechanism up and then it pops out there's no screws involved in that system at all but here we go now these little plastic things here are actually really really important they're like a plug that's in the oak wood to receive the screw so when we're refinishing these cabinets we want to leave these plugs alone make sure you leave them in there because you don't want to have to come back later and take all that out the only thing i would suggest is remove the little tabs that are on here that keep the door from being really noisy when you close it and you want to remove your handle [Applause] and pull the screw out now when you're refinishing your kitchen if you want to keep the hardware and put the same hardware back on you're going to save a lot of steps but if your hardware dates your kitchen and you want to put in something new then you have an opportunity you can save this hole and drill a new hole with new hardware later or if you already have pulls on your doors and you have two holes buy hardware with the same dimension on it okay so if it's a three inch by three inch handles and that way you won't have to do any filling and sanding and repairing of the door before you get moving forward if they're in good shape and you're going to keep your hardware this is a real quick process okay what you want to have have your ziploc bag i prefer the freezer bags because they're really hardy and you just throw all that in there all your screws and bits okay close that up get out your marker and put on here number six this is really important because all of your doors and drawers that are in here are going to be set especially for that piece of the cabinet you don't have to come back and make all your adjustments all over again now if your cabinets need to be adjusted you can throw them all in the same bag and you can do all your adjusting when you're finished but in this case these doors are actually lined up pretty good so i want to just kind of keep things simple the only other thing you might want to do is take your marker and put a little mark on the hinge and that'll mark whether it's the top or the bottom for you there we go [Music] very unique just going to get a lot of these out of the out of the sight line okay so you can see it doesn't take long to pull a kitchen apart if you got the quick release you just spend more time on the other side taking all the hardware off the doors but this is it now your kitchen is prepped the only thing we're going to be painting in this kitchen because of this style is the actual little bits of facade that are on the side of the cabinets that are showing uh you know this little valance i think the side of the pantry door over there is going to have to be painted as well but because the doors take so much more prep what i want to do is i want to get all the doors prepped do those until we're ready to start painting and then we can come back and do a little bit of prep on this in the morning and we can paint everything all at the same time it's going to be probably a three to four day project just because we like to make sure we let it all sit the time of year that we're in is about springtime it's high moisture in the air and because we're using a water-based paint we want to give it lots of time to set up and dry properly so that we don't want to rush things and have a problem now here's a trick we have a microwave shelf and this is just the veneer so what i'm going to do is i'm actually going to remove this and i'm going to go pick up a piece of solid pine and cut it to fit this space and paint it like the rest of the cabinetry because i know that even after the the this plastic vinyl here that's covering all the doors after this stuff is painted it's not durable no matter what you do we can give it a bit of texture we can paint it nice and it'll look pretty but it's not very durable so it's not good for a shelf so you want to do is they take your drill and underneath there's going to be four set screws usually there we go and these are cabinet screws and they have a washer head on them they're generally around three quarters of the thickness of the two layers of material added together and that's all they use to attach it so you can replace those for and you can actually save them for later just by putting them back in with a quick little twist [Music] now that i have my microwave shelf i'm not going to just pitch it in the garbage i'm going to save this as a template so that i can use this to make my shelf replacement now drawers are a little bit different because there's a drawer face and then there's a drawer and we want to remove the face from the drawer itself and in this case it's five screws and we're going to have to well that's a knife all right we're gonna have to get some space in here and we want to first take the handle off okay then we have four set screws that are holding the face to the drawer we want to remove these screws only halfway well would you look at that these drawer faces are not just screwed on they are stapled on as well so unfortunately if i try to take that door face off i'm going to run the risk of damaging this drawer itself the drawer is made of half inch particle board material um i'm not going to take the chance that i'm going to be able to remove that without destroying the drawer and that causes a brand new kind of issue so what i'm going to do for now is i'm going to treat all of these drawers and they have to be site finished where they are i'm just going to see which ones i want to leave in the kitchen and which ones i'm going to take out to the shop entirely i think the homeowner is going to be able to appreciate having access to their silverware oh my so what we're gonna do is we're gonna finish these drawer faces attached to their cabinet when we come and take care of all these other parts of the facade we're going to take all the doors off site these are actually a lot simpler to finish because they don't have all the detail all right so this is actually quite easy to sand with a palm sander one of the reasons i want to take all the dwarf door faces away and take it to my shop is because the contour on this panel it takes a lot of work actually to take the stain and get the finish off of there and do it effectively so that requires a little bit more precision than just throwing a palm sander on it and i want to have it in a different environment this is going to be simple i can set up my palm sander on a vacuum come in and give this a good scuff with the transition primer and it'll perform just fine but this this is a lot more work trying to make sure all these nooks and crannies here are filled in and sanded properly so i'm just going to finish taking the rest of my doors off get them loaded into my truck to take back to my workshop and then we'll meet you back there to continue on with the process of how to prep these things up and get them all painted so we're back at the shop now and i'm going to go through all the steps that are necessary in order to take it from this to a beautiful piece of finished painted wood now when you have to be careful of a couple things when you get started one these little door stops you want to get these removed because you can see the unfinished wood underneath there all right so those garbage you can go to the store when we're all finished and we can buy a package of brand new stops and we'll apply those when we install the doors at the very end of the project but for now here we are looks like we're ready to sand except for one thing we need to clean this first because it comes from a kitchen depending how old it is and what kind of condition your cabinets are in you're going to have varying degrees of cleaning necessary here but you don't want to start sanding until you've cleaned because natural wood doors have got texture and that texture if you put a sand pad to it it's going to start rubbing all of that grease into the grain and you're going to trap it there and then when you go to paint you're going to be very disappointed with the results so the type of cleaner that you want to use depends on the person and the condition of the situation but generally uh like a tsp like a tri-sodium phosphate they come in powder you mix it yourself or they also come in spray form i just went down and i grabbed an all-purpose degreaser because i'm not looking for a chemical like a tsp where i've got to actually wash it off when i'm done this is you just spray and wipe and walk away they're in good shape they aren't very greasy there's no real surface dirt not covered in tomato sauce i'm not expecting a big issue so we're just going to spray that on liberally and we're just going to wipe it off with our blue shop towels and what i'm looking for here is just a physical inspection of this rag when i'm done and then i can find out how much dirt is on there now that's pretty darn clean so as a result i'm not going to spend all day long trying to wash my wood i'm just going to take this wet rag double check the sides you're going to be surprised majority of the dirt is gonna be right around where the handle is from people's hands all right and on the back side here that'll be where most of the dirt is once we've got this cleaned up now we're ready to sand so for sanding there's a couple of products you're going to need one is an orbital sander and you can get these where they go in circles or vibrating okay so either one will do the job if you get a kind that just vibrates you can actually buy these with a square or a triangular tip and that can be real beneficial for getting into the corners but because we have a detailed door we're going to need a sanding sponge as well and the reason for that is we want to actually get that sponge press it into the detail and then sand out the detail okay now here's the thing we already tested this we know it's an oil base yes you could get chemical strippers involved and you can go crazy i don't think it's necessary technology today makes it so that it's not necessary to take this back all the way to the bare wood what we want to do here is just transition it into a new product that we can finish and that's going to have the resistance in that wear and tear that we're looking for so we're just looking to scuff this up so that we have a texture that will receive our transition primer once we have that texture we can move forward instead of having to go back to the chemical strippers if you're going to use an orbital sander of course we have to take precaution there's a lot of fine dust being kicked out by that so you wear your mask okay if you're dealing with really old cabinets or if you're adding new products that are solvent based buy this one okay this is good for all of those odors as well that are dangerous in the air this is just the particulate mask this will take care of the order as well we're not going to be using solvent so i'm not worried about it i'll just wear this version of the diaper like a glove this sander has two adapters one is a cartridge filter and that can attach and then you're just running the dust right into this box the other adapter is here and this is actually designed to be attached to your vacuum so you can actually vacuum while you're sanding for the purpose of what we're doing here today i'm going to avoid turning that vacuum on because that just gets a little bit too loud and we're not really making a whole lot of a mess yeah for sanding the surfaces orbital sander i'm using a 150 120 grit that's plenty you don't have to go any more coarse than that the only trick here is you want to line up the holes relatively speaking because that's what the vacuum is going to be sucking all the dust through the holes and then through your filter if you don't line them up the dust is going to go everywhere now you want to do your best to sand with the grain and again we're not taking it back down to bare wood we're just scuffing the surface to get ready for transition primer so don't over sand you don't need to spend all day long in this process [Applause] [Laughter] [Applause] make sure you do all your sides and of course the entire back generally speaking the back of the door doesn't get a lot of wear and tear but it's that one time if you don't sand this before you do your transition primer so one time a plate or a ring from someone's hand is going to scratch across that if you don't prep it properly it's going to disappoint you so take the time and do it right now just a word this particular hardware has plastic caps that went inside a pre-drilled hole i'm going to do my best not to damage those or remove them because when i put the hardware back on there's nothing there to be worried about i'm actually only going to see the contacts around it so when i'm sanding when i'm painting everything i'm going to leave these here and work around them and i'm not going to be too concerned about what happens inside that area when you're done sanding take your cloth put a little bit of your degreaser on there and just wipe over your surface basically what you're doing is just trying to remove the dust and the debris from the surface that's all so that our transition primer isn't going to be competing with the dust that's on there in order to get a good grab the other thing you can do is you can hook up your air compressor with the blower and give it a good shot with that if you have one handy that is a great way to finish this as well okay so now we've got our sanding finished it's time for our transition primer this is a product i use by dulux and it works amazing and i love it and so what i need is a paint tray and i need a roller now i've seen a lot of videos they talk about using these foam rollers when you're doing cabinetry work but i'll be honest with you i would prefer going with this 10 millimeter microfiber foam rollers to me just seem to pick up too much air bubbles and cause a texture issue and you don't get that nice smooth finish you're looking for so i'm gonna use this bad boy but my paint tray is a disaster and i am out of liners so i'm gonna show you a paint trick oh my goodness take your paint tray put it in the garbage bag [Applause] instant liner okay now if you don't own a 501 tool and you're going to paint go buy one this uh cleans rollers opens cans uh helps to repair the drywall put stents so you can fill them up and it is the easiest way to open up a can of paint all right try to portion out what you think you're going to use and [Music] there we go i know this is crazy if you can remove the paint from inside that edge then you can close that lid over and over and over again without having any issues okay so try to clean that out as best you can give that a tap now i buy these little nitrile gloves for doing stain work and that sort of thing and i'll be honest with you i generally don't paint with gloves on but this process is going to take a few hours and i'm going to be going back and forth between a couple different kinds of paint and i'm going to be touching a lot of edge okay let's face it these cabinet doors are tiny there's a lot of detailed work here and since i'm going to be taking a lot of edges and painting them here and then transferring to a drying station i just thought you know this one time i'll wear the gloves all right here we go brush and roll right so the idea is like anything else you want to fill up inside the brush okay and then take the extra off less is more and you want to paint from inside the brush not the outside it'll reduce your drips okay and the whole point here is starting the edge and you work your way towards the middle from both corners so you put it in the edge and you pull towards the middle all right making sure to get it in the crack because these are two separate pieces of wood so you want to get that nicely filled i would hesitate trying to fill it with any kind of caulking it's going to cause you a great deal of regret it's not going to finish nice now if you get any brush lines make sure you pull them out okay there we go now i'm going to show you another trick because this channel is full of nothing but tips and tricks this is my new favorite friend i love this product i've been using it for years anytime i'm doing a minor patch or stain kill or anything that i need a good solid primer my favorite trick for this is actually an old set of stairs i can spray all this down on the oil paint and then finish a couple of coats of latex over top of it and make it look brand new if you want to make your life simple this one can will do a kitchen now i'm not going to suggest you spray the entire door with this but because the the detail that's in this door if you want to make your life easy you can use this as a spray primer just for the detail this is a shellac base paint and it is like a spray paint of course so it will drip and it will run and if you have any of that just wipe it off out of the way and then let it dry okay if you get proficient with this kind of product you can prime all of this detail in just a few minutes and it'll save you a lot of time and effort all right of course in order to finish your priming you can use the brush on these edges here all right i'm going to suggest that you do all four sides of the edge while you have this out okay you want to follow with the grain and don't worry too much about the texture of the surface we are going to sand between coats so don't get hung up on that if you have paint pooling in a corner you have a big bubble by all means get it but don't worry about brush lines just want to clean all this up here we go look at this i'm still working from inside that one brush amazing how much paint a brush will hold once i have all five sides done i'm going to pull out this thing here my trusty roller and i'm gonna roll the inside i've already got lint that's great now you'll see the process here you're going to have a lot more paint on here than you want okay and this is the danger this is why i'm showing you the hard way first there's more paint there than you want as a surface primer all right if you're not careful you're also going to get it all over your edging and you're going to be back and forth like this all day long just priming up your door not necessary so the way you solve this problem of having too much paint on a door is sand all your doors first and then when they're ready to go cut all your edges then go back and put some paint on and then go to the next door do two or three at once with the full roller and then you can come back and stretch it all out okay and you'll see that when your roller is dry you have a lot more control you can even do all the flat surfaces if you don't want to use your brush okay again it comes down to comfort but i prefer to do all my flat surfaces with the roller instead of a brush now all we do is take this set it to our drying area and you can set this up anywhere you like i think the best for me that i found is just get a couple of two by fours lay them on the ground in a corner and stack all your drawers your doors across that that's a perfect way to let them dry it takes about a half an hour so once your door is primed and it has dried completely usually let it have a good couple of hours don't be in a hurry here because you are going to use a mechanical sanding machine and you don't want to sand all of this off really easily if it hasn't had time to dry and bond properly you're going to be disappointed and have to paint them all over again so what i would suggest if you have the time and the patience prime everything one day and then do your first coat the next day and then your second coat after lunch and here's why we are going to be switching out our sandpaper and we're going to go from our 120 gotta love the hook loop and we're going to switch it over to the 220. now i like to buy them in different colors because then it keeps me honest and i don't forget that i got to switch it out again line up the holes get ready to go once we're sanded we're going to be using the dulux melamine paint i've seen a couple of videos done with this kind of product and and they're talking about uh using something that's not an eggshell but it's not semi gloss somewhere in the middle this product here is uh it's amazing it's a melamine paint so it gets you that nice smooth finish without the semi-gloss shine it's also got additives in there so it's really really durable and it'll really help your kitchen cabinets perform so if you haven't seen this product used before feel free to stop by the deluxe stores or ppg paints and have them i should talk to you about the benefits of this i love this stuff i've worked on it before doing some custom working kitchens and really pleased with the results because we're sanding i should put this back on my face and god help us all okay here we are now we've got our 220 pad and again this is really simple we're just trying to take off any little bumps that are sitting in the paint so that we have a nice surface texture i'm not trying to take this back to the wood of course [Music] just a quick and that is it the other option that you have of course and you'll see that even with just doing that it exposed a couple of spots the other option of course is just take a sanding block you can get these medium or fine grit or if you have a medium grit and that's old keep these handy in case you ever get this project and you can just pass it over the surface real quick okay whenever we're painting between coats the goal here is not to create a texture that'll bond it's not to do anything other than to take off ridges and bumps okay so same thing get the corner right in that groove just to help guarantee you're defining that space okay anything that looks like it's a blemish i dress it that here we go of course when you're done tack cloth or use a little air pressure that'll do the job now same process okay i would suggest you start clean fill your brush with paint on the inside and then you're just going to pull it push it into the corner and then pull all right and then just clean it all up make sure that there's no ridges all right there we go now painting a cabinet door is actually relatively simple it's just time consuming and the secret is in not using too much paint and the way we deal with that is i'm painting the trim area here the detail but then i'm taking the brush and i'm painting the outside of this picture framing as well while i'm at it and the reason i'm doing that is because this gives me the ability to get rid of the excess paint that's stuck in that brush so i'm not leaving it all in the ridges and i'm not causing drips all right so here's my process i get it in the corner and pull right now i'm going to pull in the direction of the grain here and i'm also going to paint the edge with the excess paint that's left on this surface here one of the things you want to be careful of when you're painting is this concept of less is more you might take a little bit of experience but you really need to trust the technology that's in the paint nowadays this paint acts like a self leveler you put it on and then it'll it'll spread out while it's drying it gets rid of all these brush lines and gets really good coverage a good quality paint gives you such good coverage that you don't hardly need any to get the result that you want and it allows you to still see the grain of the wood underneath the paint there we go that is absolutely beautiful okay now the same thing with the door i'm using a 10 mil roller and this one i didn't load up you'll see how there's hardly any paint on there same thing i'm going to take the time to stretch this out for the purpose of our demonstration here i don't want to run it up against the hedges now you'll see i don't know how well that shows on camera but i hardly brought any paint over here at all and i can just run this back and forth all day long and before you know it it's been stretched out and everything is completely covered look at that now to duplicate the same texture on the sides just run it over real quick so that you don't have a different texture left from the roller and the brush on your flat surfaces done now we want to of course do the sides as well this is easy sometimes you just use the roller again all the way around when it's dry there'll be just enough paint left in that roller that you can do that and then you want to let this sit for a few hours i would suggest probably five or six overnight again is better the more patient you are the better the result come back take your sanding block give it a quick shot just in case there's any more dust in the area and then give it one more coat and that is all you need now if you want when you're all finished you can go back with a lacquer finish but like i said if you're using a regular latex paint you probably need some sort of a lacquer or a finish coat to protect the door but if you're using a melamine paint from dulux you don't need that step it'll save you a lot of time and aggravation it also makes touching up your cabinets a later date really really simple because you can keep this stuff stored and if you ever do have damage during your install you can actually take the time to fix it and you don't have to worry about matching your lacquer as well as your paint there we go so the other type of process that you're going to see in your kitchen most wooden kitchens are going to have fillers valances microwave shelves like this one here and in most cases or even the exposed side of a cabinet most cases the price point that kitchens are purchased at you're not going to get these in solid wood and stained a lot of the fillers and and miscellaneous trim boards are all basically an mdf material with a vinyl skin we'll call it plastic okay so you can't take a mechanical sander with 220 and sand that down it'll just eat a hole right through the thing and you're going to run into trouble so what you want to do is take some steel wool now this is not the core stuff this is actually for fine woodworking 4-0 is actually used when you have a piece of wood that's covered in varithane some sort of a finish like that and you want to just polish it up and you can just polish it up and get rid of all the dirt and bumps and make a shine that's what this is for and this is what we're going to use here we're actually going to just rub it in circles and the idea here is we're going to allow this steel wool to create our bonding texture for our primer because we can use a transition primer on this kind of material just like we did on the wood because it's designed to bond just about anything to anything now it's not going to look any different it's not going to feel any different but know that once you've done the steel wool application you're going to have just enough texture there that you can take your paint and you can roll okay the fact that this is even rolling means there's texture on there if there's no texture it would just slide across like a big smear but the fact that i can dry roll this means that that worked here we go i got just enough texture even dry rolling that is brilliant and again what we're doing here is we're relying on the technology of the materials that we're using we're not relying on the texture of the surface this transition primer once it gets a chance to bond properly and cure and your finished coat of paint gets a chance to cure you'll be able to put this microwave shelf back on and slide your microwave in place and it's not going to cause any damage at all okay so once your transition primer is dry go back to your mechanical sander you can then use your 220 sandpaper just like any other painted surface again when we're doing our sanding in between coats what we're dealing with is the surface of what's painted not what's underneath so all of a sudden now we've got our transition primer on here we have a brand new surface so just treat it like any other painted surface and you'll be fine okay so we are back on the job site today today is the day we have to handle all these little miscellaneous elements the skins beside the hood fan gables on the cabinets that sort of thing so i guess your first step is clean out your room we got to remove the fridge we got to move the hood fan and then we can tsp all of those surfaces make sure they're also free from grease double check quick note nowadays a lot of the kick plates around the cabinets are also done in the vinyl skin so it that's the way it is here that has to be cleaned and painted as well don't miss that element i know it's underneath the cabinet but if you missed that today a couple weeks from now i'd be sitting down for dinner look across the room and go oh my god look how ugly that is so we're going to prep the room make sure it's all ready to go use a couple of black garbage bags on top of the counters and appliances that way it's acts like a drop cloth i like to use the black bag just because if i have a drip or i see i'm making a mess it's really obvious to me um once we get that done and we clean all of our surface then we're going to sand all of these vinyl skins again now we showed you earlier in the video that we use a little bit of steel wool for that we have a large surface so you can use a sanding disc i like to use 120 grit but don't put it on the sander just use it by hand okay so just grab a hold of it and use it as a hand sand again we're just lightly scuffing the surface so that'll hold to the bonding primer and then once we get all of that done then we can start getting our first coat of paint on and then it's just a matter of hanging the doors and making sure it's all level so let's get working okay so we're going to remove the hood fan because we have skins on both sides and just a little bit of space but not enough to get a brush and roller in there and we don't want to try to maneuver back and forth we just want to remove it and then reinstall it now we've got a video about how to change your hood fan in our library so you can check the little icon that looks like a magnifying glass put in a hood fan and then there'll be a description probably a link at the end of this video max i'm sure we'll take care of that that way you can follow that step along yeah typical there's no morette there be very careful in messing with this stuff because you don't want to blow yourself up so like an idiot i forgot my degreaser today when i came lucky for me the client had her tsp this is the new tsp product it's an environmentally safe version uh my guess is that they had some issues with the political correctness of phosphates so they've corrected them which is lovely so it's just a part mixed with warm water and we don't need a lot of scrubbing here we're just going to make sure that our surface is somewhat clean again just removing the grease because we're not going to use a lot of mechanical sanding i want to make sure we got a good surface to bond to [Applause] so the next step of course is the sand and this is 150 grit and i'm just going to go like this just using my hands like a sanding block again you can see on the surface if you going especially in a circular motion you'll see the scratches and this is how you know you've scratched it up okay so like this you maybe can't see what you're doing but if you go circular if you're going up against the wall just fold your paper in half and put your hand in the way so it acts like a guide so you're not going to scratch the wall set that there you go so then when you're done before you paint just take a damp cloth or a tack cloth and just wipe real quick to get the dust off the surface there's no sense painting that in because then that's just one more thing you're gonna have to sand off later so again this is our transition primer we're gonna be cutting and rolling the cutting is just a fancy word for using a brush to draw a line without making a mess so we're going to put the heel of the brush in on the angled brush and then push the tip so go heel the tip and we're going to run a brush line down the side of that cabinet so that we don't make a mess on the wall if you follow this technique you won't have to use tape and seal everything off and if you want to you could tape everything off of course but i prefer to brush by cutting in i find i can paint just as fast as most people can tape off room i can have the whole room painted so i've learned not to use tape when i paint even on something like this now when you get to the front of this cabinet we don't want to paint the surface all right and if you use the roller here you're going to make a mess so use your your brush and cut that edge as well and the secret here of not getting any paint on it is when you get to the bottom if the if the metal part of your brush stays level with the bottom of the surface the bristles all be coming away if you go down like this they'll curl underneath and make a mess on the bottom of the cabinet all right it's the same thing here we're going to go down and pull our heel off all right now we have our edge defined we can take the roller but basically there you go with a little bit of pressure you want to just kind of move whatever paint you have there around to even out your texture here we go when you're done your surface take a cloth set it up and just do a quick run down each edge see look at that i found a little bit of paint do the bottom as well ah nice and clean better to do it now it's hard to clean this transition primer off later if you find it so keep it clean as you go because it is a transition primer and this really bonds to just about anything do some of this without getting any paint on the wall again when you're painting with a brush you want to paint from the paint that's inside the brush not on the outside make sure you force the paint inside the brush and then you can draw a line with your brush so you can see that in the beginning we taped all the doors and drawers off because we were going to remove the faces i'll just take this out usually that easy you can see on the camera that i had these four screws in the corner as well as the screw that holds the handle we started taking apart and i realized well there's a staple on here as well in all four corners and the actual material on this drawer is quite thin on the front of the face so here was my concern if i try to take the face off i've got staples i'm going to have damage that's going to be hard to correct and if they use any adhesive on this as well when they stapled it we're going to run the risk of causing damage to this drawer that i can't repair so what we did is we decided to leave it and we'll do all of this together when we come in to do the skins so what we're going to do is we're going to leave the garbage bags on the counter now that we've got this area done we'll save the hardware for later so we're prepping our drawer by removing the door hardware taking off the little silent stops to go on the back for when you close of course we're going to get our tsp out this is usually the dirtiest part on any cabinet is right around the handle all across the top we're going to have oils from people's hands want to get all that wiped up okay and then we're going to want to sand now in this situation you could use your orbital sander but because i'm painting in this room i don't want to be doing anything that's kicking the dust up in the air so i'm just going to use a hand sanding block and you want to make sure you get every one of these surfaces [Music] preparation is really the key here folks just because you have a great product like a transition primer doesn't mean you get to get lazy everything can always bond a little bit better be a little bit cleaner be a little bit more scuffed up so take your time although it feels like it takes a long time if you try to cut a corner with your sanding you're going to be really disappointed with the results at the end of the day and honestly it takes a whole minute of drawer it's worth the investment there we go take my rag i'm just going to get the extra dust off and then once again we're going to cut and roll the entire surface while it's attached really want to just get all these edges and i'm going to suggest not using a roller on all these edges are you going to create so many drips that have to be cleaned up you'll just be going running around in circles so once again i'm using a garbage bag as a tray liner i love my garbage bags but this roller fell into the big soup so i'm using the 51 the curve edge and i'm literally trying to take out as much of this paint as i can okay off this roller before i paint the door face i don't want to have this thing saturated or it'll just be like sliding around making a huge mess so now that we have this pretty much dried out i'm not even using any pressure look at how much paint is coming off that roller okay so now when i apply pressure it's in order to get coverage and i'm not going to be forcing paint to be dripping off all the edges so dry rolling your primer is definitely a good idea there we go all right yeah max wants to see if i can do this left-handed well it's not as easy i just got to hold myself still but the same concept applies clean just brush from inside it's all about technique here not speed watch the heel of the brush i am not left-handed but if you follow the technique it doesn't matter how good of a painter you are the technique is solid there we go so here we are we have this huge skin panel uh my suggestion is just keep the same six inch roller there's no real reason to set up another paint gear with a traditional roller i know it seems like a lot of space but invest a couple minutes rolling it you'll end up with a nice product yo you're gonna end up spending 10 or 15 minutes just cleaning up the other roller anyway okay so all of our skins we've got the primer on it's all nice and dry relatively speaking it's been an hour we just had lunch so now i'm coming back with a sanding sponge and i am not trying to scuff the surface this particular product bonds amazing with the paint what i am doing is just making sure that i don't have any large dust or dirt particles and so i'm just doing a little bit of a circle here the idea just to make sure if there's any debris that's in my way i can get rid of it make sure that i have a nice smooth surface to work with just a little tip when you're working with your paint pour out enough that you'd only leave about an inch inch and a half in the bottom of the can that's perfect because now my brush i can force it into there clean off all the paint that's on the edges and the only thing that's left is paint that's inside the brush not on the outside and that is how you cut without making a mess and that is our color i got paint on my hand this is like a really sticky paint man yeah you don't want to get it all over yourself when you're working all right well the secret to rolling with a material like this because it has the ability to cover such a huge amount of space with such a little amount of paint is you really want to stretch your first roll mark out over a large area then you want to go back and then just push the paint around and cover it up okay and then as you're finishing hopefully the roller is dry enough that leaves a nice consistent texture if it's not go rub some paint off somewhere and then come back so you have a nice consistent texture on the wall there we go there we go okay so the second coat i like to do once the doors are back in place of course i've got the insides and the outsides all painted but because i'm moving this to a new location i have no guarantee the condition the door when it arrives and i would rather get the last coat while it's hanging in place in case there's any damage that needs to be repaired from transportation i can deal with all that at the same time besides this really doesn't take that long to throw a coat of paint on a door and everywhere where you work you're going to have different lighting different environment it's just nice to have it in this final resting place when you do the final coat okay sorry now in order to finish the coat i want to just put a little bit of paint on each of the inside of these doors and i want to just back roll until the coverage is really nice again i'm just using whatever pressure is necessary to get a nice even coat and then i'm going to also put a little bit of texture on the doors where i rolled i used the brush sorry there we go now the only other thing that has to be done of course is putting the door harder on i'm going to wait till the next day to come back and do that because i don't want to risk damaging the surface while i'm messing around with the hardware if you're using a color that doesn't look like it's going to cover very well you can actually add the color into your primer so you can tint your primer and then it gets the equivalent of three coats of coverage with your color so that you don't have any bleeding through i didn't do that here because i'm using a relatively white color and tinting white into a white primer isn't really effective but if you're using something with a little bit more personality and you want to guarantee coverage sometimes tinting the primer is a great way to go [Music] i don't know how well the camera picks this up because we're dealing with a natural wood there are some areas here where this joint is you can see some light brown staining coming through and generally speaking that's just the sap from the oak it's very here and there there's a lot of it on this corner here wow yeah that really shows you can see that the reason you can see that is because when we are using our um our transition primer is it's a water-based product that i'll that bonds to oil so it's not a sealer the same way that a stain blocker would work so what you're going to find is when you're done you want to give yourself about a week maybe even two and then all these little spots are going to show up and that's not a problem because all you do is you get a stain sealer and i like to use aerosol kills it's a shellac based product it's the same product i use to seal all of the detail like you can see this this was done in kills no dark yellow where the kills didn't show up that the stain comes through so we'll wait and find out where all the stains are that come through and there might be just a few spots that might be all over the place it doesn't really matter once it's all made itself apparent then we're going to come back give it a stain block a little touch up something like this because this product takes 30 days to cure there's a possibility of the next few weeks there's going to be a couple of nicks and scratches don't get worked up over it takes a while for paint to cure so this is the kind of process make it look like it's done in a hurry but unless you're gonna let these doors sit for a month and you're gonna add spraying a blocker everywhere this is what you're in for so don't be alarmed and if you have this kind of work done in your house and you see that there's stains coming through it's very normal with solid wood so don't get worked up over it just call your company up who did the work inform them that they're gonna have to do a service call book it a few weeks away so that all these different areas will show up and then you'll get it all taken care of and you live happily ever after well that's pretty much it we're just finishing the last coat on the last couple of doors here we're going to be back in a couple of weeks we'll tag this on the video but we're going to come back and do the stain blocking i know that's going to be an issue i see some places already even after 24 hours there's bound to be a few more issues that'll poke a heads up by then so we'll just wait to deal with it all at the same time and who knows maybe by then we might even have some other work to do okay so it's been a couple of weeks since we put the cabinet doors in and got the paint job done but since then of course the granite guys have come in they've done a measuring and a reinstall of the countertops now these are beautiful courts and i'm here today because i need to reinstate all the plumbing and we have a beautiful sunny day which is the perfect time to do our touch-ups on our doors when we did the install originally it was a little overcast kind of late winter but now spring has sprung and i am able to see all the minor imperfections little places where the grain of the wood has absorbed the paint more than the little texture next to it so i can see you probably can't even see it on the camera but i can tell i need to hit something here i need one more coat right because there are highs and lows in the grains there is a different material in the wood that the paint will react and respond to differently and you'll get different levels of absorption and you want your finish coat to be very consistent and so in this kind of light you just pass back and forth and you can see all the areas where you just need a little bit of a shot now we're really pleased because we didn't have any rubbish there's no been no damage in using the kitchen so obviously our primer and paint technique has been very effective but this is just a little quality control one extra step that you know generally speaking nobody in the industry ever takes time for it and that's making sure that on a beautiful bright sunny day it looks just as nice as it did when the it's all cloudy out and we were relying on the the lights of the room but it is amazing how different things are in natural light okay so here we go it would probably take 15 or 20 minutes we'll just run around the room have a good look make sure that all of my spots i'm happy with nice and of course i can only look at it from one direction here okay we'll also inspect inside the cabinets looking for any of that staining not seeing any issues here at the moment i've already contacted the client and asked if they've seen any discoloration and there hasn't been any problem well there we have it that's all the whole system for repainting an existing kitchen this allows you to get a brand new look without the expense of changing all the doors now the thing is is it takes a little bit of blood sweat and tears material cost for this project was less than a hundred dollars all right a little bit of primer a gallon of paint and of course we put the new stickies on the back of the door the new bumpers so everything is nice and soft i'm really pleased with the way this turned out it took probably about two hours to level off all the doors again that can be a bit of a trick okay so expect to have some time to be patient there but other than that the process is simple prep prime paint paint paint put on the hardware and you're good to go brand new kitchen so if you like this kind of content give us a thumbs up we appreciate the interaction questions i'm sure you're going to have questions put them all below i will answer those questions every single day and we'll help you get through your project too so for micah tops let's just talk countertops for a second because a lot of homes are made with a formica top kitchen and there's a reason for it the stuff is durable it comes in a variety of different colors and textures and glazes and you can get just about any look you want with formica and the price point is usually about 20 to 25 dollars a linear foot of counter space that's why it's used but we're going to transform this because it seems like the new normal nowadays is to have some sort of natural stone and that's a bit of an oxymoron because we're going back with quartz on this job which is not natural at all it's a man-made stone and you need to understand that if you're using man-made stone in your kitchen it's been made with a resin and it does not handle heat very well so make sure you never put a hot pot on your quartz that being said let's show you how to remove this stuff and it's really quite simple again we're cutting silicone it's amazing how much silicone is used in the house all right so for the most part countertops are installed with gravity but because formica is installed on a particle board and it is not always flat it is screwed down but it's not screwed from the surface that's screwed from underneath so as long as you know where to look usually four corners a screw like this and nothing in the back corner well that was awfully nice of them i'm gonna have to just remove a couple of drawers here in order to get my drill in we'll lean into the back there's a screw here [Music] and one on the front there we go and that is all there is to it we'll put the drawers back right away because we don't need to have access to anything when we put our cords back because it is so heavy if we've done this right and they tiled this right this countertop is now no longer attached to the cabinet and there should be a small gap between the stone and the countertop that's been covered with silicone that we've cut we should be able to just slide this right out i'm going to move the stove just a little bit get a good grip here getting a little bit more silicone in the back here giving me a bit of a fight i love a good fight i usually end up with a black eye though there we go ta-da all right there we go out with the old and in with the new so this little piece of man-made love probably about 100 pounds yeah maybe 120. now we're dealing with a lot of precision here not a lot of room for error we'll get it up here first man that is beautiful now what we're going to do is we're going to throw a couple of dabs of the sealant bond in the back corners just so that it'll have something there to hold it in place not that it needs a whole lot of help it's not going to jump off but it may slide around there we go and then i'll just lift the front and throw a little squeeze in here too you want to put that about two inches back just so it doesn't end up squeezing out gluing your door shut or something there we go and that is an installed countertop amazing how simple that is so if you're updating your kitchen and you're changing your countertops just remember you have a few options uh you've got of course your formica and there are luxury versions of formica so don't discount that it's like i said it's about 25 on the high side per linear foot of countertop where generally speaking granite and quartz start at around the 50 to 60 range per square foot you're also paying for all the waste and off cut okay so it's not as simple as just measuring out your counter if you have any turns they're going to be cutting that out of another piece of stone and you're going to be buying all the stone that's used in the production process so keep that in mind you also have to deal with two things the man-made stuff the quartz lovely to have for ease of maintenance you don't have to use a sealer and it doesn't take any maintenance but what it does take is discipline you can't get it hot you can't put a hot pot on this because the resin will melt and it'll leave a mark the natural stone although it takes a sealer it's just a surface sealer usually applied every two or three years takes about 10 minutes not a big deal but you can put hot pots on granite and you'll never hurt that surface the other thing is with granite if you ever get a chip or a crack or any other kind of damage you can call up your granite pro from ottawa granite pro and he can come out and he can do a surface repair on site while you wait and you'll never even notice your damage ever again the guy is amazing okay so the reason we are covering stone countertops granite courts and otherwise as a diy video which is kind of strange because you can't do your own countertop in this material the reason i'm covering this is because when you go to talk to your countertop company about this kind of material there's a few things that they're not going to do for you number one they're not going to remove your old countertops for you without charging an arm and a leg number two they're not going to disengage your old plumbing and remove it out of the way at all most of these companies won't assume any liability dealing with the plumbing so you're going to have to be in charge of your own plumbing so you're going to have to know how to disconnect turn the water supply off remove your faucet and then reinstate all the plumbing again when you're done okay so just a couple of quick points i wanted to bring your attention because these are older videos and things are always changing so when you're doing your cabinet repainting i'm gonna recommend a different product as a primer so you don't run into any issues whatsoever and this is new on the market it's a odorless zinzer that is basically a shellac paint and it will prime the surface with a light sanding and it won't have any bleed through okay so you only have to do it once now the new odorless product is what makes this possible inside your house let's face it homeowners in a lot of cases you can't do all your painting outside and if you're gonna be painting inside the traditional shellac would absolutely get straight to your head and you would be unsafe to drive for days so the new odorless product has very low voc it performs just as well and you can do it in the comfort of your own home without going crazy so i would recommend that now and then just finish off with your paint if you can grab a wagner power sprayer if you can't get a hold of the melamine paint in that video the melamine paint is an incredible product it's technology that we're relying on and it melts into the surface even on a vertical surface so you don't get roller lines and brush lines a lot of comments on that video but the reality is if you're not using that paint then get a sprayer so you get a better finish okay now as far as the countertops are concerned industry standard is moving towards laser measurement counter companies will come out and take measurements themselves so you're completely off the hook but still there are guys doing old school they might want to measure the center line of where the sink cabinet is and if you give them that information in a lot of cases they'll also sell the kitchen sink to you it's part of their business they've got the template it makes it standard and it's easy for them to put the hole in the right spot all you got to do is and have the decision made ahead of time it's going to be one or three holes for your faucet so do all your shopping in advance have that information ready and when you go to the stone place make sure if you have a smaller kitchen you ask them i want to take a look at your offcuts they're going to have a whole wall of off cuts offcuts is anything that's not a full slab and when they're dealing with quartz and granite the first person to buy some of that stone pays a premium price and all the offcuts are a lot cheaper don't let them lie to you they'll give it to you away almost cheap we got those counters for fifteen hundred dollars all right that's three pieces of stone with a miter joint and a hole for the sink drilled delivered on site it was a great deal and if you keep up with the orderly zinzer and one gallon of finish paint it's not even going to be 300 bucks for all of the painting cabinets so now your price is really affordable right away you start to see this transition now let's jump in i think the next project is going to be the backsplash again the primer that you're going to see in there and then the cement and the grout and the trims you can do the whole backsplash for 500 bucks all right we are almost having complete finished kitchen let's jump back in the video and we'll see what else we can come up with so traditionally with doing a backsplash in the kitchen if you have existing tile you've got two options a lot of these things they're just put on with an adhesive but you know what when you're building new houses they do the adhesive before they even use a primer that's right they're right over top of drywall which means this tile is attached to the paper backing of the drywall and when you try to rip that off you're ripping your wall apart so what most guys in the renovation business have learned is if we just smash it out and cut the drywall top and bottom and replace that whole piece of wall section and then put on a backsplash it's actually quicker and easier but i'll tell you that is a really huge waste of time so for a diy trick i've got a way to do a tile over the tile i know you're going to love it so what we're going to do is just remove all of the electrical stuff of course almost everything electrical is attached with a number 632 screw it's a machine screw and that means a number one robertson drill bit take these bad boys out because these are going to be garbage we're going to have to use longer screws when we come back now if you don't feel comfortable playing around with live power tear it off just go downstairs most new homes the breaker panels are all labeled for kitchen if not well you can always apply some black tape just to make it a little bit safer i like to live on the wild side all right so what i'm doing in my backsplash my simple process is garbage bags believe it or not when you have nice countertops you want to do something to protect them while you're working tarps are no good to you because they they're just always sliding off garbage bags almost have like this cling effect it's almost like using saran wrap and it almost tapes in place look at that how cool is that now a lot of people think that if you're going to go tile over tile what you need to do is come over here with some sort of a machine and sand the ceramic tile down and honestly that may have been true a long time ago but nowadays in the renovation business we're relying on uh technology not technique okay so boom you've seen this before if you watch our channel this is eco prime grip we use this as a floor leveler primer i can convert sheet vinyl flooring into a substrate that i can tile over on concrete with this primer i can also use it on existing tile to install tile right over top with a cement now all i got to do is bust my way in here boy that is not as easy as you think sometimes i wish there was an easier way to get this done if anybody knows how to open this easy put it in the comments section below for the guys that map i maybe you could put in a spigot here so like a spout we could actually pour it out like a paint can that'd be real helpful all right dear lord we're just going to load that up stuff's a little drippy but who cares we're on plastic get yourself a little mini roller and this is a lot like painting for pizza you just do a cut and roll job on this okay there we go and we're just putting this on the surface of the and this doesn't look like much but i'll tell you when this primer is dry it is like a rubber surface with grit it is absolutely amazing as long as you don't let this stuff freeze in the wintertime a pail of this will last you a long long long time for a lot of projects and i love using the mini roller it just goes in every nook and cranny without any difficulty and then when i'm done i don't have to wash i just throw the darn thing out now remember this is a dry area not a wet area and according to the tile recommendations of the international brotherhood of guys who like to tile then we need to get about 80 to 85 adhesion so if you don't get every square inch of this stuff on here don't worry about it backsplashes don't get a lot of abuse now this stuff dries in about an hour so do your primer clean up walk away and then you can pull out all your tools and get set up for doing your backsplash by the time you're all said and done this should be dry and ready to go i'm loving this product because it makes life quick and simple if i was to take a do a demolition approach here and then a reinstall it would probably take me better part of half a day just to be at the same place as i'm going to be in here in about 15 minutes okay so here we go just about done we are going to go grab a coffee while this stuff dries and when we come back we'll show you how to install and this is beautiful this is a subway tile we're going to use it's like a 2 by 12 i believe it's a ceramic it's very simple it's going to have a little bit of depth of color in the gray scheme so it'll really nicely tie everything together so excited about this ceramic tile three bucks a square foot for backsplash that's the way to go so this is the stone that we've picked out this is a ceramic tile it's 2x10 it's very simple very it's got a beveled edge which is nice so you get the little bit of texture on the wall with a nice cleaning surface easy to wash and what i've done is i've laid this out just to measure it off okay so whenever you're doing tile you really want to think about the um the layout before you get started it's not an afterthought what you do is you want to measure off your gap counter top to cabinet 16 and a quarter i've already gone and checked the entire room is within an eighth of an inch of that so what i really want to do is i want to create an environment where i'm installing this stone at 16 inches okay now you have an option because we're going to be using these growth spacers you can go with a 16 or 32nd inch or even a 3 16 okay so you can have the ability to manipulate a little bit and generally speaking backsplash tile are all designed to fit that gap of an 18 inch gap between upper and lower cabinets before countertop so as long as your countertop is standard in our case it's quartz it is it's inch and a quarter we're in good shape so this is really easy to work out so now i've measured off 16 inch using a 1 8 inch spacer so i know that i'm going to go full tile from counter to cabinet all the way along my backsplash and i'm not going to have any ugly cuts near the top and i'm not going to have a big gap to fill with nothing but grout later so very important when you're planting know the dimension before you go and buy your stone just in case it's a little odd you want to be able to pick something out it's not going to have slivers or huge gaps left other than that the only thing left to do before prepping is move the hood fan what i did is i took out the screens we just backed off the four screws a little bit slid the whole thing forward and tighten it up again there is a gap between the hood fan and the cabinet on both sides and so we want to make sure that we get tile up in and behind that and then we can reinstall this hood fan pushing it back to the wall piece of cake this one actually vents up into the air if your hood fan is vented out the back wall i would suggest leaving it in place and tiling around it just because the flange that fits into the wall is only i think is about three quarters of an inch thick so if you start tiling over tile and you have a rear exit fan you can run into problems so be careful of that other than that let's just talk about the tools that we're going to need all right so our tools are very simple and and i love this because i'd love to be able to show a very simple combination of tools for doing work at home here's my little tile cutter it's a brutus cutter it's designed for 12 inch stone great for backsplash i'm going to need a drill with a number one robertson bit all of these electrical switches and plugs need to be backed out and pulled away from the wall just some tape a marker knife float and a trowel and my spacers of course measuring tape and you were in business so with the basic tools you can be able to do stonework yourself the only thing that's missing here is our grinder inside the setup outside we're going to cut all of our stone with the grinder outside just so we don't put that dust in our atmosphere here all right so when you're doing a backsplash tile you don't need a whole lot of tool just a small pail you can use your grout mixing blade here all right that'll work fine we're just going to make a half a pail of cement and the reason i like mixing it in this is because i can have it sitting on my counter and it's really simple to work from i'm not using a lot of cement in the application so there's no sense having a big pail up there since it's too hard to work with we're using the ultra light cement from map eye and the reason we're using this instead of an adhesive is because of our primer it'll bond much better to a cement than it will an adhesive or a glue so here we go tricks for the trade always put your cement into the water not the other way around and in this product case a little bit of water goes a long way don't need a whole lot of drill for this either just on low speed okay now let's show this for most people they would look at that and go oh that's a good cement for working with tile right it's a little bit stiff blah blah blah but the point is is ultra light mix is different than any other cement you've ever worked with that is missing almost a half gallon of water ultralight should be more of a consistency like whipped cream not like a cement [Applause] here we go now that is more what i'm looking for and i'll show you this the way you test it is you can just go like this and see if it holds the peak okay that's amazing it's so light it's just it's like fluff it's almost like a marshmallow kind of a soup mix it's crazy but that is how you properly mix this product as long as it's holding the peak you want it as wet as you can get as long as it holds the peak when you're mixing if it's not holding its peak just put a little more powder in right away but you have to make sure you have this compound the way you want it before you let it sit once your 10 minutes of setting time is up you can't touch it again you're gonna just destroy your product all right so we're going to let this sit here for 10 minutes you read the instructions on the bag almost every cement that you mix you want to have a setup time so we're going to leave this and go grab ourselves a coffee all right time for a quick recap now our cement has been sitting for 10 minutes it's ready to go we have everything primed we've got our counters covered with my plastic this is what i love to do just so i'm not cleaning up a mess later and i'm not getting hairline scratches from any of my tools especially with quartz you got to be real careful actually because a lot of the housing on your tools it's all made with like an aluminum product and whenever there's a vibration with aluminum it actually will wear off onto the quartz and leaves a mark now there's a cleaning trick for that just take clorox bleach and a little unscented grout and you can rub those marks out but why make a mess that you have to clean up later so what we have to do now is just remove all of our electrical and i don't know about you where you're from but around here whoop these are 632 screws i generally am a crazy man and i do all this with live power but if you want to turn off the breakers it's not a bad idea now depending on the scenario your screws may not be long to reinstall long enough to reinstall these look like about an inch and a half so we're going to work fine so we want to keep these handy because that is going to work just fine and then of course the last thing you have to do since we're starting in an inside corner and we have six rows of tile which we've already predetermined we have to take three of them and cut them in half because we're doing a half offset subway tile pattern okay so our tile is 10 inch but it is an actual nine and three quarters so the way you can find out the measurement to the mid part is half a nine is four and a half and half of three quarters is three eighths so when you put all that together it gives me four and seven eighths boom right there all right so there's my mark now i don't know if you've noticed but on my tile cutter i actually have a mark here where my tile cuts so i can put my tile on here put my mark in line and then i'd like to do this just i only have to measure once so i put every tile on that same spot and in case you're just off by a hair keep your left and right side separate just a little scratch and a little pressure and off we go to the races it's that simple no need to have a thousand dollar machine to do that it's really all of them all the science is in the little cutting wheel and you can buy a replacement wheel for eight bucks so a 30 tile cutter will do the job by the way a lot of cases these handles they have a screw-off end with a spare wheel so if you buy a 30 cutter they already give you a free 8 wheel but if you don't know about it you don't know about it and you can see how good the cement is right that's got grab this is why i love to use this because i'm going to be taking this tile straight across the back of the stove area and this stuff will keep my tile from slipping so i don't have to put any temporary bracing in place it's so much easier to just buy a good product than to have to fuss around with a piece of wood and screwing it to the wall and finding the studs and maybe putting a screw through your electrical save yourself the hassle spend the extra five bucks and get the right cement all right so you can see the technique is simple you just throw a few blobs on the wall it's not going anywhere because this is really good cement for this situation because you're going to want to be able to take your time working around all your electrical plugs right without getting yourself electrocuted you can't do that if you got really wet nasty cheap cement here we go and if you're using adhesive you can't do a large area with backsplash because it dries before you even get the tile on that's why this cement is so wonderful because it holds everything right to the wall and it gives you about a 15 to 20 minute working time which is lots of time to fuss around here with the cement and get your stone cut and installed you don't want to do the entire kitchen at once here you want to just do a certain area and we know that the full tile to the top so i'm going to have no problem laying in the tile all across this area right out of the gate the bottom of the top now i'm going to show you this technique it's very important when you're putting tile in your kitchen lift it up and put your first spacer on your counter oh so important especially if you live in the zone a region where you get uh probably below freezing temperatures what ends up happening to the house is on the outside walls the the lumber of your house freezes and starts to warp outwards okay as the wood moisture in the wood starts to freeze it expands and so a lot of times you'll see in your kitchen the silicone lines around your kitchen on the outside walls gets cracked and the wall separates from the cabinets in the winter time so if you put the space here in the winter time if you use the right kind of elastomeric caulking which can grow 400 of what you put on which is four times the size you won't get cracking but if you start with your tile right on the counter you're going to have a nasty mess come the winner now if you don't live in the kind of an area i imagine you might get away with it but most areas have heating and cooling just because of the air conditioning systems that we use if you live in the heat so it's nice to have that kind of control there we go next step i'm going to put the half tile now i like to when i'm doing this stuff just lay it in and then move it all around this keeps the cement from getting stuck and squeezing out the gaps it's a little painstaking like this now if you do a lot of tile with this particular product you can just come along and set it in place eyeball it and give it a press generally leave it because this is meant to hold it in place but for most people it's better just to take the time and use the spacers we're not in a rush because the cement like i said takes a while to dry this is where it gets fun so you have to kind of eyeball you want to get nice and down here and see what your height is there's three things you need to know the left and the right side of the box okay mark those the center of the box and then where the hole is that this screw mounts to most boxes are a rectangle with with an added little bump circle on it half circle the screw mount in it and so the box looks like this and then it has this thing going on right well you don't want to grind all that that'd be ridiculous okay so what you want to do is you want to cut this rectangle and then take your grinder and just go zip zip zip zip zip so that you've got defined space there for your your screw hole and that's all there is to it now we're gonna run outside and grind this real quick and then we'll come back in and we should be able to finish most of this rest of this wall for the first four or five feet i think i'm gonna need a little bit of a grind on that piece right there but that'll be about it for the grinder other than that we'll just do a few scratch tools and we'll be done uh there we go and double check make sure that you can see the hole and maybe just clean the cement out of the way just so that when it's time to put that fixture back you're not going to be in there with a tool chiseling around all right and i'm going to suggest you measure this way especially if you leave the power unlike me don't get your measuring tape out because that's got a metal end and you don't want to blow it up okay you can touch the plug with the ceramic it's not conductive so get right up to the edge there so when you're putting these tiles in to demonstrate here you want to set it right on the right on the tile right on the tile that's how you want to start and then you want to slide it up and away in into position that's how you'll guarantee you'll never get the cement in the grout lines okay so once again tile the tile and then you slide it up and away okay that folds the the the line down gives you much better contact but it also keeps all the rope lines nice and clean so you're not coming back afterwards and doing a whole lot of cleaning this is the process for tiling over existing tile now if you're not using uh if you if there's no existing tile then you don't have to use the cement okay it's completely optional in the kitchen tiling on a bare wall is usually done with an adhesive that would probably be a much more traditional installation the benefit of tiling over tile is really obvious generally speaking if you're going to remove a backsplash you have to take the tile off the drywall surface and the drywall gets destroyed it's really difficult in a lot of cases to remove just the tile so what most guys do is they'll come in here and they'll quote or they'll remove and cut out all the stone and they'll cut out all the drywall replace all the drywall it just creates a whole lot of work it's about i would say almost half a day just remove and reinstall the wall board and then you've got to do the backsplash and then you've got a grout it becomes a whole weekend project doing it this way you can do it in an afternoon and that is a renovation on saturday and fishing on sunday real quick before you come back to the plug just mark the center line and put that on the grout line here and that's how you can continue on with your perfect space remember four and seven eighths was our magic number here there we go we just set up the laser line now i've got that perfect right no concern if i'm going to be good or not and there we go we'll cut this now one of the benefits of tiling in this environment without tearing everything apart is you don't risk damaging your counter your cabinets remember these are solid wood cabinets so if we were to start pulling out a hammer and a chisel you're going to cause damage this way you guarantee that everything is stays mint condition especially if you're doing this as part of the process like we did here because we painted all these cabinets and they're only two weeks old the paint so it doesn't even finish curing yet i can't even imagine trying to work around that curing paint until at least 30 days it'll just be a nightmare well here we are i think i'm about what 30 minutes in maybe i think it's i started um it's going to take another hour and a half to finish this off that's uh and i've done a lot of this so you know you might expect to take twice as long but you know we're going to get so many comments on this from contractors out there who are hating on this video because it's like how dare you show them how easy it is how dare you show them a system that doesn't force them to remove all the walls and help me jack up the bill but reality is folks if you've got a skinny little tile like this you're not losing any counter space you know what's a quarter of an inch for me you know a couple hundred dollars for the backsplash tile one bag of cement bag i grow i mean it's a three hundred dollar transformation of the room okay it is absolutely spectacular and the fact you can do it yourself with a couple of hand tools i say a contractor should just get out of the backsplash business [Laughter] okay so we're going to show you a technique for working around your faucet i don't want to be sitting here with this metal trowel messing around trying to just back butter the tile right in your hand okay this is not all that tricky we don't need a hundred percent adhesion here all right we're not holding up the house it's just a little something pretty to put on the wall that's easy to clean all right so tile the tile set it in and then slide it into place nice and easy and then for over here okay i have a little bit of the cement there i'm just gonna leave that part of the tile untouched okay and then slide it into place come back with the spacers in a minute okay so now that the tile is all installed i've screwed the plugs back in just to guarantee that the holes are going to be good okay i don't screw them tight because you're going to cause problems with breakage and pulling them out of position i just wanted to guarantee that all my screw holes are good now we're going to let it set up for a little while before we grow and while we're waiting for that before we grout we want to take care of this exposed edge now because we're tile or tile you have to be a little bit creative here so what i've done is i've used my understanding of building materials available at the building store and bought some outside angle this is aluminum but it's a brushed metal and it matches up with all the brush metals in the room so what we did was just put a little miter joint on it we're going to cap it and this is going to be the finished look and that is going to look absolutely stunning we can use a painter's caulking up against the wall and the reason i will pull this out now is because you want to put this on with your hot glue gun before you grout okay very important if you grab first you're going to find that there's always going to be a film or a residue left on the tile it takes until you dry overnight then you got to buff it off and that adds a whole lot of process to this or if you put this on now before you grout then you're going to be working with a brand new clean surface without any dust that's how i prefer to use it a little dab goes a long way hot glue is one of these particular products where you don't want to make the glue sit too long before it's pressed into place so do one piece with the glue get it installed and then just measure it off and then let it sit for a second until it cools down there that's done now what i'm going to do is i'm going to put the glue right on the same spot i'm building this out a little bit because i'm gluing onto the bevel and that is the problem that i'm running into here because i'm gluing onto the bevel the top piece wanted to roll back a little bit so i'm going to glue the glue and build out my bevel that way i'll just hold that in place until it's dried okay all good now when you're using hot glue if you see any of this glue sitting out proud of the trim just take your knife trim it back it will not grout nice and it'll be ugly so trim it off now we are free and clear and all the little glue resin just rub your hand on the countertop it all just wipes right off folks we're free and clear now when this is all set up about an hour or two we're going to let it dry we'll pull out all our spacers and we're going to grout with all that in place and we'll add some caulking on the top paint it in that'll be spectacular all right well thanks for joining us on our little how to tie all over tile episode here it's a great little how-to trick to spruce up your home without making a huge mess in an afternoon um if you like this kind of content i really would ask you to give us a thumbs up and ask questions in the comments below of course we're gonna answer those questions for you if you haven't subscribed to our channel by all means hit the subscribe button we do have new videos coming out every single week for your enjoyment and education and if you want to know how this turned out as far as the whole look when it's finished routing just check us out on our reality renovation series there will be a link at the end of this video and you can check out that and all of our other major projects that we have filmed all right so we have two more videos here we're going to show you one is for and it's it's not from this particular kitchen we didn't film every aspect of it back in the early days max and i weren't working full time so it wasn't always convenient we have a video of an installation of an undermount sink which is generally what you're going to use if you're going with a stone countertop now it was from a bathroom but the process is exactly the same the only note is i do support you put in a shelf rod as a support for that sink because in kitchens people tend to put a lot of weight dishes and water and pots and so make sure you get extra support in there you don't want to rely completely on silicone seal we're also going to show you about floor installation video because if you're changing your kitchen you've got to change your floor it just doesn't have the same effect now you can put in a laminate product or a vinyl product it doesn't really matter we did do a video we're going to show you that as well but understand today's recommendation is to add a sound underpad under either of those floors okay because it absorbs all that hitting and walking noise and it really increases the quality of the production so regardless of anybody else's recommendations i say you always use an underpad end of discussion jump into these videos and we're talking dollars and cents here right so the sink is going to be about 100 bucks and the taps will be a couple hundred bucks the floor you can get a good quality floor for five to six hundred dollars for that kind of a space of a ten by twelve kitchen it gets you all put together just around three thousand dollar mark but i'm in canada so if you're watching this from the states it's actually a lot cheaper than that anyway jump into that we'll see you on the other side of the demonstration today we're going to tackle the how to install the undermount sink so really simple we have a cultured marble top and we have got a porcelain under mount sink here this one is made in germany that's nice it has a built-in overflow so there's really nothing to be concerned about here you just need to know which way to install it so when you have a nice deep well like that on one side and shallow on the other always install the shallow part towards you that way it facilitates washing your hands most faucets drain the water right in the back of the sink so all you need to do step one a couple of quick measurements that you need to do [Music] measure the depth of your cabinet to the underside of the countertop in this case it's a little bit more than 16 and a quarter so because we're going to use shims for installing we'll just go with 16 and a quarter nice and easy this is seven and three quarters there we go so we do the math i'm just gonna take myself an eight inch piece of wood i cut in advance just to save us some time the idea here is simple i hold the sink in place i apply my my adhesive which is a silicone now this this is a new flex brand silicone smells like vinegar when it smells like vinegar you know it's going to work really well that's an important key so then basically you put the silicone on you pull the sink up by the drain into position and you just wedge the piece of wood underneath and then use the shims to make it nice and firm and then tap it with the hammer and that'll force the sink up nice and level all the way around under compression so in a perfect world that works really easy so let's get our sink in place here okay so we're just going to apply your silicone really not too liberally about a quarter inch bead all the way around you want enough that it bonds but not so much that you're wiping out all the silicone for an hour and getting it all over yourself like i said this is the good stuff and if you get it on your clothes you're not getting it out you just want to be careful to make sure that your bead is nice and continuous because it's not just an adhesive it is also a sealer make sure that water water's not going to get in the cabinet and the secret to this keeping clean have toilet paper handy all right so now i'm going to grab this lift it into position my block of wood there oh come on baby here we go i agree there we go now when that starts to make good contact there we go yeah i'm just jamming them in there manipulating the front and the back side of the hole to tilt it and squeeze it in place okay so now it's not going to fall out so now that you get up here you can kind of manipulate this into place so you don't want to have any of the corners sticking out make sure that the gaps are consistent all the way around okay we're going to take a minute here wipe off the extra really one wipe discard don't try to be cheap with this because you'll end up getting it all over yourself so basically it's installed now uh it's siliconed in it's in the right position we've got the brace and some shims but we want to add more compression so this is the point where we get a little bit tricky with this i'm going to add one more shim in here just a little bit of a hammer [Music] here we go oh yeah that lifted it right into position real good well this is awesome having all this light with max here today i've never seen under sink like this in my life the bottom of this medicine cabinet actually isn't very strong it's only about a quarter inch piece of plywood and so this is a bit of a tricky scenario the only other way that you could do this is you can do it from on top you can put a piece of 2x4 across with a hole drilled here and you can buy it to store a threaded rod about a half an inch and you can get galvanized bolts for the half inch rod and then what you do is you put a little piece of wood underneath with a hole in it as well you slide it over the rod you tighten the nut on and then from the top you lift the sink into place and you can thread the rod and use a wrench to put the compression that's another way to do it this is just really quick and simple so now the next step now that we have our sink in place we're going to attach our faucet our drain all that kind of stuff this particular sink doesn't need a gasket it is just too heavy and too flat and it doesn't have a cavity for the gasket to sit in so if you want to seal around this the only thing you can use is a little bit of cured clear silicone that's good when you're tightening this up you don't want to go you know full full tight right away especially if you're working alone if you have someone working with you like a cameraman you could reach over and hold it in position while you tighten it otherwise finger tighten so it still has a little bit of flexibility we want to lift it forward away from the back wall and that'll be nice you want me hold it no i'm good there we go just take your pliers what i want to do is just separate them a little bit there's tabs on that you can turn with but if you have a little bit of torque with a pair of pliers you can really get it tight so you don't even want those coming loose once you've got the rest of your plumbing put together i always want to test to make sure you got it on there tight enough okay yeah those tabs aren't going to move yeah so this particular faucet it has a threaded assembly and it has a gasket ring inside here so we're just going to seat this in and push down on this part now the gasket assembly is inside nice and strong there we're going to just make sure we're not cross threaded we're going to tighten this collar on here and that'll hold it all in place it doesn't matter how tight you turn this it won't affect the ability for the faucet to move so feel free to make sure it's nice and snug one more thing we're since we're out in the country and we have well water here it's a little hard and you saw the cottage plumbing i'm concerned about debris i'm going to take my knife here and i'm going to take off this extra bit of screen how many screens does a tap need now that the screens are gone we won't have a problem with the faucet bunging up you won't have as much aeration but i'd rather have a faucet that works so here we are with our sink components we've got our basket strainer we have to take off our nut we have a nice little gasket here i call it the top hat gasket just so i can differentiate between that and no regular o-ring now i am not a licensed plumber i've just installed a bazillion of these things so okay and then we just go back where we just were and put all that back together again so the assembly is simple you take your ring you put your brass extension in there and then you drop in your washer no pace glues otherwise necessary so once we've locked these into place we'll be good now this is inch and a half pipe and this is an inch and a half hole in the kitchen your father your your strains are always inch and a half hole the exact same piece they make it for bathroom sinks and this inch and a quarter do not get the wrong one let's drive back to the store you're going to regret slide that on so it's important that once you have everything finger tight take the wrench and you really want to tighten the basket nut here if it's moving around just put your hand in the top put a little bit of compression resistance there there we go all right this will give us our measurements let me just adjust these what we're looking to measure we measure from the inside to where you want the pipe to finish we're looking at a nine and a half inch pipe that's comfortable all right so we're gonna go and cut that first we're gonna cut a one inch piece for here so we can stick these together and send our water back towards the back corner in this particular application there is no p-trap it's actually in the basement downstairs which is great because it gives you a little extra storage you can keep your garbage and recycling under the sink that way a little old school love to sand up my ends a little bit get rid of my burrs rough up my fittings i just like to believe that that might just make things stick a little bit better i happen to be aware that there's two kinds of abs out there one of the building store that i was at today to pick these fittings up it doesn't carry the kind that i like to use my plumbing supply store is closed and it's a saturday so i got stuck using this stuff and i know that if you don't rough it up it just does not hold very well then it's time to grab the glue using the yellow abs glue here and i'm going to grab a cloth this stuff can make a mess so respect people's property in their cabinets we're going to do actually is just glue these in first get these prepped up loosen the collar slide that into position slide that one into position and this is really how simple this is run your glue and then turn these in together tighten the collars leave a bit of a slope hand tight and then a quarter that's it so what i'm going to do here is i'm going to put a little bit of glue here get this connection piece in then i'm going to just kind of dry fit my corner and i'm going to measure you can see i have to cut the back pipe so 10 inches to here 10 inches to the bottom of this so i need a one handed tool so i can hold the pipe so something can cut it [Applause] perfect the secret when you're plumbing here's your last connection how do you get that pipe in i always think you want to finish somewhere where you can glue this way and then go like that and then shove it in so just pay attention to your process so your last joint's an easy one and it'll go together really simple like that so this is a braided supply line with a 3 8 female connector has a gasket inside so once again you know we just got to line it up find the happy place with the thread finger tighten it now you know you've made it to the gasket oh there we go then take your pliers set that on there about a half turn you can over tighten those so this is a lot of tool a lot of torque you can keep going until you can't go anymore the danger of that is if you ever have to take it off and then reattach it again the gasket will be shot and you'll have to buy a brand new supply line so just another half and if you get a little drip develop and another little quarter turn that's all you're going to need try to extend the life of your lines so the last thing we have to do is just silicone the seal around the sink because the nature of the way this is designed there's no room for a gasket underneath so we're going to just take our new flex 302 love this product it smells a lot like vinegar but the reality is is it works today we're talking click laminate flooring we're going to teach you all the tips and tricks and secrets so you can have a quick clean fast professional result that'll last a long time so before we talk about our product today let me just encourage you real quick if you haven't subscribed to the channel we got a lot of great information on here to help folks out just like you so today is click laminate flooring and the reason we're doing this video because we've done a laminate floor installation is i think this is the most popular diy product on the market there's a lot of people who can install this with minimal amount of tools experience and understanding so we're going to go through the benefits of why this is such a good product first of all it's easy to install this product just fits into the grooves the ends drop lock on top of the other piece beside it and as a result as long as you stagger your joints properly you're going to get a nice tight fit without any corners sticking up and you can do it yourself about half the time as the kind of floor where you gotta hit them hit the boards and lock them together okay so this is a great diy project you can do the average bedroom in about three or four hours if you have a helper with you okay probably take the whole day to install the whole floor cut your doors install your trims but it's a one day you got a brand new room so this is why this project is popular now this particular floor is a 12 millimeter floor so it is a decent quality it comes with the underpad already attached to the back and that takes a whole step out of the project so before we get started on the flooring let's talk preparation okay so preparation for doing a new flooring job of course is you have to get your existing subfloor in the condition where you're ready to put your new flooring down that means it has to be tight you don't want it moving around this is really old flooring this is one and a half inch soft lumber and it's nailed through the tongue and groove into the joists which are on 16 inch on center you can see where the joints are for the flooring that helps to identify where the boards are underneath and the simplest way to do this really is you just go around walking and have somebody observe if the boards are moving and if they're moving then what you want to do is line up on the joist line and just drive some surface screws down in there and tighten it all up okay once you've gone through and got your floor nice and tight keep your drill and screws handy in case you find something along the way but that's about all you need to do to prep your floor if you have existing flooring on the in in the room then i always suggest before you put laminate floor down remove the old flooring because you don't have the ability to inspect your subfloor and that's important if you have holes or you have squeaky points or you have things that are moving around you want to get that dealt with early because once you put your new laminate floor on if it's moving around too much you're going to break the joints and it's not going to last very long the other thing you want to do before you get started is make sure you sweep and vacuum your room when you have tongue and groove joints like this that are over 100 year old you want to actually vacuum out each one of these gaps because we're going to create an area here where as you step on a floating floor there will be some air movement underneath the floor and that'll encourage dirt to blow around so if you can get it all now you won't get crunching later and yes you just remember the laminate floor can go on concrete just make sure you use a vapor barrier as a part of your underpad and you can always talk to your floor supplier about getting that product okay so let's just talk about laminate product itself real quick it comes in a variety of different thicknesses that are available and a variety of widths uh i like to have about a four inch board i find the bigger ones and a lot of floors there's just too much movement and it can't follow the contour enough without having hollow spots underneath so that's my own personal preference this particular floor has got like a hand scraped texture some of them have a wood grain texture some of them have no texture at all they're shiny there's flat there's a variety of differences some of this product is even good for wet areas so make sure if you're doing it in a bathroom or a laundry area check the product make sure it's made for that area the reason i like laminate instead of vinyl is really it comes down to cost this is the most cost effective flooring on the market if you're looking for a quick solution to brighten up a room or to clean up a space this is the way to go if you have any kind of budget at all this product i actually got a bit of a deal on it was end of inventory it was a dollar 69 a square foot and has the underpad already attached so i have nothing else that i need on this project and the way it installs is just boom drop it together and it sits snug together it has a tongue and it has a groove and the boards will continue to install in like fashion you just line it up okay and snap it together done that's the installation procedure so you just do that a few hundred times and the room is finished right so what we're gonna do now is we'll show you how to lay it out because i get questions like this a lot which direction should i go do i go on the long wall the short wall do i start at the door or the other side of the room and the answer is simple i prefer to start on the longest wall that you can start on because the the grain of this long board on a long wall aesthetically is pleasing now in this situation the room is a little bit more square so we're going to go in the same direction as the existing boards are now and that'll help it to follow the contour of the of this old house that's here as well uh it also gives us the ability to come to the entrance door in a situation where my door is going to be here and these boards will finish up into that space that's a lot easier way to finish at a door if you come this way then your cut has got to be exactly perfect cutting into the jam and around the baseboard it's quite intricate but if you come at it this way into your door you'll find that you only have one cut on each side of the door makes the installation really quick and simple okay so this is going to be kind of how to install flooring for beginners first if you don't do this on a regular basis and you haven't got good callous on your knees get yourself some knee pads okay these are really nice they're soft they don't have any hard cover on them you're not rolling off all the time just make sure you're always sitting up nice and tall the elastic straps that hold this on really tend to pinch if you're sitting down on your feet a lot so try to avoid doing that next remember there's two ends there's one that's got just a square end here that's designed to drop on top of the lock and there's one here that's got the extension on the board and because you want to install a floating floor with room to expand and contract you've got to be careful because if you put this right up against your baseboard you've always already got a gap all right so what you want to do is maybe start the flooring on the other end of the room okay and what i'm going to do is i'm going to show you a technique where we're going to build the first few rows and then we're going to pull it off the wall where we want it and then we're going to set a bunch of our wood on top of the floor to keep it from moving around while we build the rest of the room so before we get started we're going to remember that we want to have these joints moving and changing location on a regular basis when we want to have the gaps the distance between those joints significant enough that there's strength being transferred from one board to the next so that the floor doesn't come apart now in order to do that we want to remember that this area here with the tongue is going to be what we call the finished edge the clean edge we want the cut to be on inside of the board so i'm going to start off by cutting three boards three different areas and yes this is my robert's cutter it's like a guillotine anybody can use this or like this like this or like this or like this just remember when you're cutting with these tools do it outside the dust is horrible and wear your safety glasses i'll cut one board at half when boarded it with third okay and then one board at two thirds [Applause] [Music] and this gives me the ability to start four rows at a time and that way when i'm done these first four rows then i can fix the spacing and put those other boards on top okay so once you get started there are basically two design options that you have and here i'll just lay them out real quick one is it's a constant step and you go from big board to smaller board when you see junk like that make sure you blow it out you don't want to have anything in the joint okay smaller board just smaller board just smaller board blah blah blah and then the whole process will start all over again all right so your floor is constantly stepping down and that pattern reoccurs over the floor some people like that look personally i think it looks a little bit too intentional and man-made and i'm not a big fan i like to mix it up a little bit i like to go long short long short that's just my preference there's no real right or wrong way now i'm going to show you the installation technique so you put it in the groove you slide it along to help make sure that you're good contact and then drop it down okay and you'll notice that things aren't going to sit really snug right away just put some weight on one side and work this pulling it in that direction while you're pushing down and everything will sit nice and then you put the next board on and until we get some weight on this floor it's going to want to move around okay so you can use your leg just do it like that and then we'll go short again now we have something we can work with now these first few off cuts oddly enough what i'm going to do with them is i'm going to just set them aside until near the end of the job and we'll use these in the last few rows when we get to the other end of the room i just don't like to have them in the way all right so we're at a point now where we're just about ready to get into production we want to finish off our couple rows and we always have our big tongue sitting in front of us okay as you're building and so the way that you're going to measure from here to the wall you turn the board in the reverse direction set the board up to the wall take a black magic marker and right at the edge of this corner i want you to take off a quarter inch which is basically the extension of the tongue on the first board plus another quarter inch you want to make that short on purpose here's why that's going to be the gap that second quarter inch gap that's going to be the gap that's there for the floor for a little bit of expansion contraction now generally if your house has conditioned space like air conditioning and heating system there's not a whole lot of expansion and contraction that goes on but if you live in a house where you don't have air conditioning and you get a hot summer then you're going to see that your floor will have varying degrees of how it fits so remember the hotter and more humid it is the bigger your floor gets so you can make your adjustment based on your condition some people go with a half inch gap around the outside of the room and use a three quarter inch quarter round just because they're in extreme conditions but traditionally a quarter inch will do the job okay so here we go now there's my off cut all right i don't need that now but i'm going to use that to start another row over here all right this is how it works so every time you cut a board after you've done your first view and set them aside every board you cut now you put one in the one side and you start a row on the other side and that way you don't have anything going in the garbage again we'll just set that down and we'll grab another board [Applause] now remember i'm starting tight on the other wall and so when we get the first few rows in we'll slide it over and close the gap a little bit but for now we just want to get this nice and nice and tight and then we'll pull it across and then drop it down and just giving it a little tap like that will help to manipulate everything into position here we go again we'll set that against the wall and we'll mark a quarter inch after the base so there's the finished floor there's the end of the rough floor we'll add a gap and we'll mark our floor there so here's our little piece so everybody who is wondering is that kind of cutter going to be able to cut me just a little piece the answer is yes it goes in the same way slide over and then lay it flat done and if you see the edge of the board has any damage break it off and clean it out anything that's got damage like that isn't going to close properly just push it to the corner remember you're going to be sweeping as you go there we go now my space is shorter than the board so again i turn it around and i measure same way there's my under finished wood on the floor finish board and my gap mark it now most flooring when you're clicking it together they call it a click flooring because the flooring actually makes a click sound when it's sitting right so this is gonna be the secret we're gonna see if we can get the microphone on here to pick this up there it is okay there we go [Music] there that way everything fits perfect now the secret to doing a job like this is be 100 happy with everything you do before you go to the next one if you're not happy with what you've just done take it apart and try to figure out why you're not happy you might find that something's not tight enough there might be some debris in the gap so it's not closing properly but if you keep moving forward there's no way to go back and fix it later so we basically have our first five rows done and before we go any further what i'm going to do now is i'm going to just take this original cut off piece here my weight back here and give it a tap now i'm damaging this board and it's fine i'm going to treat it like garbage but what i want to make sure is is that the first few rows everything is nice and tight one of the things about the click lock system is just because it's in doesn't mean it's in perfect it can open up and have a gap right so that's that looks good hear that click okay so that's down there's a gap now listen that's click lock okay and when you're doing the first few rows it's hard to get that click sound because things aren't perfectly straight so you need your first few rows before you can straighten it out so what i suggest before you go ahead give everything a little bit of a love tap make sure everything's clicked in nice and tight then you won't be disappointed and your floor won't open up after the fact [Music] real quick we better show you how to move your floor into position because remember we want to have a consistent gap on both sides and the back wall now it's after you do five rows it can be pretty heavy and you might find that the finish on the laminate is too slippery to get a good grip this is where tape comes in okay literally hold the tape down and hold the edge of the tape and you can pull that floor right off the wall all right now you can also push it but if you try to pull it might be a little bit difficult for you so use the tape the other thing you can do if you have a board that separates and you need to kick it back into position just put a little bit of tape down and the reason you want this this helps give you a little bit of a little something for your shoe to kick on and you can use that to manipulate your floor put that into position okay so we'll check our gap on both ends i'm liking that there perfect so now to keep this from moving around on us we want to add weight each of these boxes weighs approximately 60 pounds okay and when you're done packing all of the rest of the flooring for the room on there you're doing two things hey you're getting it out of the way because you're installing a floor in the room and b you're putting enough weight on that floor that you've just put down and put into position to keep it from moving around now remember because this is a drop and lock system we don't need to use a hammer anymore now that we've got it started and straightened out we've got it all tightened up now we're ready to go and build ourselves a floor now it's time for the time-lapse then we'll be able to show you the tips and tricks for dealing with around the doors and fitting your doors after the fact most likely some of these will need to be cut down okay so we're done our basic square footage of the room now we've come into a couple places where it's nice to talk about finishing details you can see it only took us about 20 minutes maybe 30 you know so if you're new to this and and you're you're you're starting it for your first time maybe expect that to take about an hour but i tell you once you get used to the cutting and you get a rhythm going we can get doing that pretty quick if you have a helper it makes it all that much faster so here we are this is what we call quarter round and if you look at it it looks like one quarter of a piece of pie that's what it's basically called and we use this as our trim molding to close up from floor to baseboard all right and the way we do it is the inside corner is going to get mitered at a 45 degree angle and over here we're going to bring it right up to where the door casing meets okay so we're just going to make a pencil mark here where the door casing is and we're going to cut this one on 30 degrees and that opens it up a little bit nice like that looks clean looks finished if it's cut square it looks stupid so it's a nice soft angle and it'll work really well and what we use to install it is a brad nailer and we're just using inch and a quarter nails now this setup here with an air tool with a gun the hose and the compressor you can actually get at the local home depot the husky machine i think when i bought it it came with the hose and a nail gun i can't remember exactly but i think the whole the whole outfit is less than 200 dollars and of course once you have a hose you can get interchangeable tools you can get your stapler for the quarter inch plywood you can get ratchets so you can do power tools to work on your cars as well so having a compressor the compressor itself is 100 bucks you don't need to spend a fortune on these kinds of tools i'm rough on it i probably go through one a year because i don't treat it well but for me to have something that is that versatile for 100 a year that is just money in the bank as a homeowner if you actually take care of your tools it'll last you a lifetime okay so you can do all the trimming in your house all your finished carpentry anything you need and you can also put a little blower on the end of this and you can use it as a as an air broom and you can clean things off and clean the dust out of the room clean out your computer and everything else with that too so very handy definitely suggest having that that's one of those tools that every homeowner should have if you're going to do diy you don't want to spend your day running around a little finishing nails and a hammer trying to hammer all these trims in like it's 1950 that'll just take you forever and you're going to waste your whole weekend doing something that could be done in about 10 minutes all right so here we go once we've got our measurement we just run it down to the saw cut it stick it in place throw one of these brad nails in every 16 inches every two feet and we're done so let's talk transition because this is the one place in in the whole room where homeowners always do it wrong and it screams diy they don't cut the casing and slide the floor underneath and the reason for that is they probably just don't know what tool to use or how to get that job done properly or maybe you've hired somebody to do some work in your house before and they were lazy and didn't do it properly but here's the secret take your flooring put it upside down and you buy one of these now this is called the dovetail saw okay because of the way that you can hold the handle flush on the ground and still cut without rubbing your knuckles off it's also reversible left and right you push this down and you swing it around and then it locks in position to cut the other way okay so all we do is set it on top of the flooring and the reason we use this piece upside down is just to measure the depth and this is not about strength it's about speed okay it's a fine too saw and once you get to the jam which is this material here you can stop or you can keep going you can cut right through the whole jam it doesn't really matter but the goal is to get to the other side of this casing clean through so you're probably going to be cutting some of your baseboard as well and that's fine there's no damage going to be caused here by doing this now when you get near the end instead of trying to put all your force on the front try to use the push push against the heel like this kind of motion and then you'll get the back of that cut off all right and the way you can tell if it's done just take your trusty knife there's probably some caulking and adhesive in there here we go there we go now we've got the whole thing it might be just a little bit left and you can take your knife and cut that little bit of trim left once you've got it all cleaned out now you'll see your flooring will slide underneath your trim and you'll get a perfectly clean line and there's no need for caulking this is absolutely beautiful if you add caulking to this after the fact you're actually going to make it look ugly so it detracts from the situation remember the only reason they used caulking in the first place is because somebody cut the hole too big and had to close the gap so if you use this kind of fine-tooth saw the saw blade itself is so thin it's like microscopic the difference that's going to be left in your floor now if you don't have one of these you can go to the store for about 20 bucks and pick one up or if you have a pvc saw same effect it's a fine two saw thin blade this is the cheap little pole saw from erwin fine two saw same effect all you do is just set the floor there and you can do the same effect okay that'll do the same thing all right these are 10 bucks they're a little flimsy but if you're a diy homeowner sometimes it's not what you can buy but what you can use that works so as long as it's a fine tooth flexible saw same process you'll have a great result too let's talk about our transition now this flooring is only going in this room i'm not carrying it into the rest of the house we're using a different flooring for that so there will be a transition and the rule of thumb is this when you're doing a transition anywhere on your flooring you want that transition to be right in the middle underneath the door so here i'll show you here's the door jamb this represents the outside of the door that represents the inside of the door you want your flooring to go right to the middle where the transition is except since this is a laminate product the transition is going to look different it's going to be about a half an inch wide it's going to be a metal track that goes screwed down to the floor okay and then there'll be like a t-molding and it'll snap into that metal track and it'll go over top of each of the laminates so in fact we want to go right to the jamb with our flooring okay we don't want to go into this area because the transition itself will bridge the gap from here to here knowing that because transitions traditionally are inch and a half a door is inch and a quarter so as long as your flooring comes up to the edge of that you're going to be fine all right so in order to do this same thing we turn this around we put our finished floor there okay and we're going to mark right there we're going to cut exactly to fill here and in this particular case we're not going to use our guillotine because we want to get a nice clean cut in this situation i'm going to use the chop saw so here's our quarterband and here's our mark with our 30 degree so we're going to set our saw to 30 degrees i'm going to lock it in place i'm just going to set my blade up there we go that's done and then i'm going to push this all the way the other side set it to 45 which is my inside corner miter and the idea here is i want the blade to cut from the tip going down so i don't make it any shorter now that piece is ready to install so here's the piece of flooring this is the one that goes into the room and this is where we're going to finish off at the door now just note this baked on finish here that comes from the factory this is a lot stronger than the kind of finish that you get on the site finish floor this is baked on it's very much an enamel you want to cut your board standing up when you can okay if you're going to use the saw for cutting your wood get it standing up line up your saw and you'll see that you bang into it you're going to have to move the guard out of the way get the saw starting and go slow there you go now that's the finished cut i can live with perfect now as the rule when i'm doing flooring i like to do my quarter round as it's available uh probably an ocd issue to be perfectly honest but it's just nice to see it cleaned up and finished so what you do is you put your gun in the middle and you push down and then you roll it towards the inside a little bit okay you don't actually want to nail through the flooring into the subfloor and you don't want to ever nail underneath an electrical plug in case the wire is coming up from underneath move away and just put one every whoops 16 inches every two feet just to make sure it's nice and tight because this is a click laminate floor you can actually cheat here just a little bit you see here we can set it on top of the group and then slide it towards it all right now it's not going to want to sit in there perfectly so what you have to do is you got to lift this side just a little bit so you can get this one to click in and you can really pull and find that it's not going to happen every once in a while you're going to want to hammer something keep a little cut off handy and the reason this works great is because the contour of the tongue and groove is exactly the same so you aren't going to damage the face of the board done locked perfect nice and clean right up to where the transition is going to be that's how you finish a floor this is easy from this side of the flooring you get your body low get your ankle in slide it over put your fingers in there in the groove pull while you wiggle down perfect every time when you're on this side of the the wood it's so much easier that's why when you're starting it takes a little time but from this side it's just that easy so you'll see as i was laying the flooring here what it is i just marked where the the floor grade is and to make my life simple i'm going to cut it out after the fact i just find it easier to install all right bring my jigs over set the blade in that hole and i'm using a three inch bit just so you know three eighths and then we just go okay [Music] [Music] and this is why i like to do it after the fact because i can cut this perfect every time okay so we are about i don't know two-thirds way through this project now and that's as far as the flooring is concerned we've got a few more details left i want to discuss and these are really important one of them is the your doors you need to consider do the doors still function after the new floor is in and you want to know that in advance because if you bring your flooring right up to the door and then it won't open it's really difficult to get it back out again so do a double check make sure you got some space okay this door is not going to clear and so what we're going to do is i'll show you my system i'll lay a piece of flooring in front of it and if you want to take a good look at this pencil if i hold it like that i actually get an extra almost quarter of an inch i'll hold it like that and mark the door on top of the flooring so that when i cut this door i'm not just cutting it to barely fit i'm cutting it so that it will completely work i'm also going to double check with the door open because old houses are notorious for having different heights and different variations so just double check and here it actually clears so we know that we're opening from a high spot to a low spot so if i take that door off and i cut it in that position it's going to function wonderful so we want to get that out of the way right away so the way i remove my hinge pins is i use a drill bit just clean it from the side once you get a little bit you can just use the claw on the hammer pop it out and you're good to go and just there we go we're going to get this right out of the room and when we're all finished then i'm going to set up and i'll cut the door and i'll show you how to get that reinstalled so now that we've got all the tools reconfigured we've changed our workstation we're putting our cutting station i've got a moving blanket down here on the floor just because it's a new floor and it's got a nice durable finish doesn't mean you want to be taking any chances it's always cover your new floor surface when you're working on it and this gives us a chance to just catch up with our sweeping again remember preparation preparation as we're working we're creating dirt and blowing dust around so now is a great time to just clean your surface one more time before we go to finish off okay so really there's only two steps left to doing a floor that you're going to need to know and that's one is the closet area it has a unique challenge that's associated closets and that is your closets usually come and build into the room so now we have this wall dividing one section of flooring to the other and because we're coming this way we're going to have this intersection that you need to think you need to pay attention in advance and come up with a strategy for doing this because as you can see this board goes in here and that's nice and lovely right done we can cut and install that last piece and then i can put in that board what about this one you know i'm just supposed to take a jigsaw and cut the middle out and try to try to hammer it in uh i can't do that okay so what you want to do is realize that in this situation you're going to want to install the floor from the middle going in both directions which is a little contrary to what we've been showing and there's a secret to doing this so you plan to go from two different directions because that's a drop lock this board you want to start right here off the jamb okay and this board is the one you want to cut and measure first and if you cut and measure that board first and get that installed from that side and then use a tapping block to push it underneath the trim we used our saw and cut all that trim out okay we actually took our dovetail saw and cut all the way through the entire casing all the way up through the baseboard all the way around this side okay the reason we can do that is because we're going to be adding that shoe mold on all the base and so it's not going to cause us any trouble but it will give us the flexibility to push this trim to push this flooring underneath so what i want to do is i want to measure here first get my marker mark my spot where it'll slide underneath the baseboard and the casing just to make sure i'm going to be okay i want to measure from the jamb to the flooring looks like my mark is two and three quarters okay good got lots of room okay and then i want to bring this right up until my my finished edge is in line with this jam because that's what that's going to connect to all right and you can just kind of eyeball this to begin with right there and then we can cut this just past the corner remember we're going to use shoe mold or quarter round here so it doesn't matter give ourselves a little bit of room and then set my marker and then i'll just pull okay now i have my cut and i'm just going to run down to my skill saw set up outside and of course it's outside because that dust is really brutal and i'll cut this piece and then we can come we'll install it measure and cut the other piece and i'll show you all the tricks so you can finish this off we're going to start with the middle of the floor instead of the edge we'll get it up to where we want it get it into our groove properly lock it in place now we want to do is take our hammer take one of your short offcuts line it up underneath and then use the cutoff area as a tapping block remember that the contour of the tapping block exactly matches the rest of the laminate so if you leave it flush to the ground and hold this together you'll have a perfect transfer of energy without causing any damage [Applause] now you can see it's underneath the contour here so no caulking necessary anywhere here we're going to get the quarter round shoe mold so you can cut yourself a little bit generous on the back side here make sure you have lots of room to make this joint and again get it in place perfect because this is a click lock you can actually lift this edge a little bit so you can get this in okay and just give it a yank snap it in bum done look at that that's beautiful now we can go back with our cutoffs make sure you establish your gap at the wall wiggle wiggle wiggle and then this is just a matter of measuring cut to finish so here we are we're gonna do another quick little time lapse we're gonna get to the end of the project we're gonna do all the cuts and starts and finishes make sure our our h which we call it which is our joint lines are staggered and mixed and look nice okay so now we're pretty much down to the last step aside from cutting the door which is coming up next for installing your floors up against the wall obviously the gap that's left is not consistent with the width of the board so we can't use our cuttering tool we can't use our chop saw to cut this wood so we need to do something else now i'm going to suggest if you have a table saw that's the best tool for the job you could also use a skill saw you can actually take this board and you can clamp it to something else and then run your skill saw and cut the piece off you could use a jigsaw if you had to but the point is anything that will cut something long and in a straight line we'll do fine you're not going to see the cut line because it's going to be covered by that quarter round that we showed earlier so don't be too concerned about how perfect this is and give yourself a little bit of space to work with all right the biggest mistake people make here is they make it too tight and then they have to fight with it to get it in they damage their their baseboards and then they're going to have issues with the expansion and contraction because it's too tight so the first thing you want to do is find your two pieces get them measured and cut to length so they can fit comfortably in the space now you have your template okay now it's time for measuring tape i'm going to measure from wall to here not to here all right and that'll make a smaller space than what you need and it'll leave that quarter inch gap that you want to have after you're done installing your flooring so measure your gap which here to the finished flooring is an inch and three quarters but to the button to the extension of the groove here it's only inch and a half and then you're going to take your measuring tape and measure from finished flooring to inch and a half and make your mark okay does that make sense so we're actually measuring the smallest part of the gap and cutting from finished flooring so we left with a quarter inch on when we're all finished here it is an inch and a quarter inch and a half inch and a quarter so at each end it's a different depth so i've inch and a quarter on one end inch and a half on the other take one of your flooring boards and set it up and this is one of the reasons why you want to take that quarter inch off it's nice to have a little bit of mercy here okay connect your dots and that'll be your cutting line for your table saw all right now this one is a little bit simpler it's just inch and a half from both sides that one you can just make your mark set your fingers in the groove and pull okay so now we have our two pieces we're gonna go down to the table saw we'll get that ripped and then we'll come in and drop them in and when you drop them in i mean literally the same process you're gonna set your tongue in the groove i'm just gonna give it a wiggle as you set it down and that's all there is to it [Applause] okay so the last step of the flooring before we cut the doors and install them is just to lay down the strips that we cut of course we cut it short on purpose remember to watch your gap at the end and you just lay it in now this is not completely done it's not set down tight so use your knife get a little forward pressure okay while you're pushing down there we go and if you're not sure if it's down enough you can always just go like this with the tablet give it a shot that will lock it in nice and tight remember you're going to have quarter round going on here to cover it all up so don't be too picky don't be too hard on yourself as long as you can see the gap closing see the gap closing push it down when you push it down if the gap opens push it forward again until it's until you can push on it without the gap opening up there we go there we go we got the click action you heard that click click there you hear that noise you know your goodness gold and then you just take your cord around and cover it all up so one of the benefits of this product is now the room is done and that's the only garbage we're throwing out i love not buying material that goes in the garbage okay so here's a little bonus feature for this video and it's kind of necessary because in a lot of cases when you're adding a 12-millimeter laminate you need to cut your doors down okay so because we marked the surface of the door that you're going to see from the room before you get started you're going to want to protect the door especially if it's already finished paint from the marks caused by the saw okay if this is a bi-fold door and you're not going to see the back side of it and you can mark the backside instead i would suggest to do that but in this situation this these kind of circular saws have a steel plate and that's what keeps it from going all wild and wonky on you and that steel plate's gonna be dragging across your finished paint and make a mess so cover it up in some tape real quick here's our pencil line you're going to want to set the depth of your saw relatively the same to the door it'll decrease the amount of chipping that it's going to cause and doors are inch and a quarters so we'll set this off for inch and a half that'll be more than enough make sure that they're going to get past your hinge or you'll have to cut from the other side and that's a little trickier here we go now we can set up our mark here this saw particular that line that zero is where the blade is going to cut and remove so we can set that right on our pencil line [Music] set the blade depth on that almost too perfect all right now you can remove our tape our door is in great shape and use that just to rub the door real quick so that it's nice and sanded that's it time to stick it back on all right so generally when i remove a door i'll leave the pins nice and handy and all you do is stick the top in all right and then you can work on the bottom there we go perfect sometimes they have a core that's about an inch or so and when you cut that off you can actually peel the the face of the door off the core and reinstall it with glue and a couple of nails in this situation that core has been cut because it's already a custom door it's been thrown out now we're cutting it again if there was any core left it'd be so small it wouldn't be worth worrying about but if you have the time and energy and you still have a core by all means feel free to reinstall it if you're worried about spiders or mice whatever getting up in the door making a home there you can always use a little low foam expansion window and door foam and you can seal the bottom of your door and then trim it off later well thank you for joining us in this comprehensive instructional video for how to install laminate flooring especially the click version a lot of the tips and tricks in this are good for vinyl or hardwood and other types of laminate as well but we just want to make sure that if you're going to be able to start this project at home you've got all the tools you need so that you can finish it like a pro now i know that advice might be shocking to some of you but the reality is there is no such thing as the right way to renovate for everybody it's what's right for you sometimes based on budget and the condition of where you're living we've got to make decisions that aren't ideal and nobody's in the marketplace going this is what you can get away with and what kind of life expectancy you can get out of a project like that so i'm going to be here and i'm going to answer questions honestly the truth is that our technology and our building materials are so amazing you can get away with a lot all right now you don't want to do a lot of these kinds of things if it's structural if you're going to be walking on it but if it's just a backsplash i'm going to suggest that you can do a bit of a cheat there and get away with it and it will save you a lot of time and aggravation and you can do it yourself remember the simplest tile installation is actually the smaller tile the better you can actually install a backsplash made out of one by one mosaic and you can install it using scissors to cut around your electrical plugs and oversized electrical cover plates you can do that yourself you don't even need to buy tile tools because it's all in a mesh back and you can use scissors to cut the mesh the smaller the tile the more ceramic it is the easier it is to install the cheaper it is and you can get a great look so i'm going to suggest if you're in a budget position where it's not always doable you can still get it done all right so if you've got questions and stuff like that put in the comment section don't forget ask in the comment section right now actually what about this what about that let's talk about all the dirty little cheat secrets that are out there that help extend the life of a project before you have to invest a ton of money renovating because i think there's going to be a lot of people in the near future who are going to be in that situation covet has actually caused quite a financial rift for a lot of homes so if you're looking for maintenance or you're looking for update ideas that are on the lower cost side maybe considered cheats or hacks feel free to put them in the comments section ask me if it's doable and i can give you a little bit of feedback now i'm not going to guarantee it's going to last forever but if you're looking for a way to extend the life of your project a few years there's a ton of things to do to get that done all right guys well listen that is a great way to remodel a kitchen right it's all of the major elements you just throw in a paint job and you're good to go and remember if you're going to be remodeling a kitchen and doing these kind of processes some people in the marketplace are going to call it cheats it's not the right way to do things there is no such thing as the right way to do anything all right it's just what's right for you so if you're in a marketplace where that's your budget and you'd like to get that kind of result then go right ahead i'm gonna empower you to do so there's nothing wrong with that thanks for watching don't forget to give us a like and a thumbs up really is what it is hit the button subscribe to the channel if you haven't yet because we're going to be teaching you all kinds of tips and tricks to remodel renovate and improve your home and you can check out this video over here we did a complete a to z on my farmhouse and in that video i'm telling you it covers all the basis for a major renovation and you can do it yourself semi-custom kitchen and make a lot of money doing it we'll see in the next video

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 122,168

Rating: 4.9218607 out of 5

Keywords: homerenovision, renovision, jeff thorman, homerenovisiondiy, kitchen remodeling secrets, kitchen remodel, kitchen design, kitchen renovation ideas, kitchen renovation on a budget, kitchen remodeling ideas, kitchen remodeling, kitchen remodel diy, kitchen remodel ideas, diy kitchen, how to remodel a kitchen, kitchen renovation diy, kitchen makeover ideas, kitchen remodel on a budget, kitchen remodel tips, kitchen remodel secrets a to z, diy, kitchen renovation

Id: VM-lc8rYolQ

Length: 163min 2sec (9782 seconds)

Published: Sat Mar 20 2021