7.3 Powerstroke Knocking, Rough Idle, Dying, but only when Cold. Plus many other Issues!

you guys got some problems with my 1995 Ford f250 it's got the 7.3 liter Powerstroke diesel engine and now that it's cold out it doesn't like to run [Applause] [Laughter] [Music] it runs pretty good at startup okay now we're starting to hear it all right now it's actually dropping in RPM area and it died so that's the problem right there let me caught it on camera all right so it'll restart but it's like it ran out of fuel takes a long time to crank over and now it's gonna run for a little bit and it's going to do the same thing again probably die again is this at this point it's been running for about five maybe six minutes okay guys we're gonna try to figure out what's wrong with this pickup and I don't I don't know what's wrong with it so I thought maybe we could kind of talk about this huey injection system and i'll walk you guys how this system works i made one of my little trademark drawings here as far as I know the Huey system or hydraulic electronic unit injection it was a kind of a joint venture between Caterpillar International and Bosch and I believe Bosch actually makes some of these components like the high pressure oil pump and some parts of the injectors and I don't know if they really had a hand in the engineering or if they're just a supplier of these parts but for sure international used this system on several engines most notably the DT series like your DT 466 II and the power stroke engines so the 73 and the 62 power stroke and then caterpillar used this on a few engines the only one I've really had any experience with is the 31 26 and it more or less uses the same system as the International of DT 466 II I don't know why they thought this was a good idea or why they ever wanted to develop this system but it does work and when it works it actually works pretty well it's just it's kind of complicated so the way the system actually works is that it uses high pressure oil to fire the injectors so in a normal like in a Cummins let's say five nine Cummins and everybody's familiar with you have an actual injection pump the actual high-pressure fuel pressure is created by a injection pump that's driven off of the timing gears so for all intents and purposes the injection pumps almost like its own little engine now the other system we could use is what's called a unit injector so that would be more like what's in my Cummins L 10 so in that case the injector is actually fired by a lobe on the camshaft so the injector has its own rocker arm and that this piston is actually pushed down by the camshaft the third option is we can have what's called common rail injection which if you've ever worked on a Duramax all the Duramax engines are common rail an international actually went to common rail when they went to the six for power stroke and pretty much everything nowadays is some form of common rail injection so in the common rail injection all you do is just have super high pressure fuel and then the injector is more or less just a valve that opens and allows the high-pressure fuel to spray out into the engine and all of the injectors share that same high pressure fuel on a common rail but before we had that we had Huy injection so the way the hewing injection system works you have your oil down here in your oil pan and it's going to suck up the suction tube into the low pressure oil pump and the oil pump is going to distribute it throughout the engine and it's going to divert part of it over here to this high pressure oil pump reservoir and I kind of drew this wrong it actually comes in sort of from the top so that this reservoir can never actually leaked down it's always going to be full of oil and then there's a second oil pump here called a high pressure oil pump and it draws oil out of this high-pressure oil pump reservoir and this thing is going to create a very high pressure oil let's say anywhere from 500 up to maybe 4,000 psi of oil and it's going to send that oil out into an oil rail and the PCM up here the brains of the operation is going to monitor that pressure through what's called the ICP sensor the injection control pressure sensor and then depending on what it reads on the injection control pressure sensor it's going to command the IPR the injector injection the injection pressure regulating valve to open or close and the more closed it is the higher the pressure is going to build in this oil rail the more open it is the more oil is going to divert out of a bypass and drain back into the oil pan so for all intents and purposes this is just a relief valve or a pressure reducing valve so once the PCM gets the oil here to the pressure that it wants and it sends it out into the oil rail then it's going to use the IDM the end your driver module to control a solenoid valve that's built into the actual fuel injector so this thing here is just a valve and it's going to open and allow fuel onto the top of this piston and this is how the unit injector in the Huey system works it has a large diameter piston that is filled with high-pressure oil and that acts on to a small diameter piston that actually pressurizes the fuel so this is an intensifier if a large diameter here and a small diameter here so you have you have to have a larger volume here so you're going to get a smaller volume of fuel but it's going to be at a much higher pressure and then this section down here is more or less just like your pencil injector like what you would have on the old school system with an actual injection pump so basically they're they're using all this garbage over here to make the injector into its own injection pump and the the PCM controls all the timing it controls the duty cycle of the IPR it controls everything so we don't have to have a physical connection back to the actual timing gears or the or the crankshaft or camshaft we can use the cam sensor to fire these injectors using any kind of strategy that the PCM wants to so I also drew this this diagram of the actual injector at least as far as I understand it so the the high-pressure oil is going to come in here to the top it's going to go through this spool valve into the intensifier pissed and there's a big spring in here and it pushes that piston down against that spring and intensifies this smaller piston that pushes you know that pressurizes the fuel and then it comes down here to this pencil injection part so this part down here like I said is basically like your pencil injector like on your normal injection pump so you have high-pressure fuel here and we want it to reach a certain pressure before it opens up this valve so that we don't get you know fuel dribbling out of here all the time so once it gets to the what we call the pop pressure it's going to pop this thing up and spray out the fuel and then once it drops below a certain threshold of pressure this thing's going to shut fully and we don't get that you know that drippy injector that's going to cause you know weird timing issue and hard starting issues because it's gonna leak down overnight anyway on the 7/3 powerstroke I'm pretty sure that the solenoid valve up here is basically single-acting so it has a coil and armature that is going to push this spool valve against a spring and then when the voltage drops off the spring pushes the spool valve back so it's a fairly simple system one of the problems that international have with a six-liter power stroke is that instead of having a spring here they actually used two coils and the coils would push and pull the solenoid valve back and forth I guess the reasoning is that the the coil can move the the spool faster than the spring can but it also has less force than the spring so what would happen with the six liter power strokes is these things would get kind of varnished up over time and then the little spool valve wouldn't move back and forth quickly enough and you get random misfires and you get that that fish bite feeling as you're driving down the road and you can try to clean these but usually the only way to fix them is to replace the injectors they have a newer design that has an updated spool and they aren't as prone to sticking in the bores so one of the frustrations people have with the the power stroke engines you know versus the more simple mechanical engines like a Cummins is that when there's a computer in charge of everything it takes a computer to fix a computer so you've there you're very limited on what you can do with these engines as far as Diagnostics goes without some kind of a scan tool and you can monitor ICP pressure and IP are percentage using a really cheap like obd - you know reader as long as it can read live data you don't have to spend you know seventeen thousand dollars for a snap-on zeus you know or afford ids or whatever you can just buy you know a decent code reader let's say for I don't know 50 bucks or a hundred bucks that can do live data should be able to show this these are the two important things the ICP pressure in the IP or percentage yeah there's other things that we need to monitor too but those are the two things that it means to work so what well often happens with these huy systems is that they get to where they won't start when they're hot and that's usually because there's some kind of a leak in the high pressure oil rail and when the oil gets hot and thins out that you start to lose pressure down here so basically the IPR valve would be commanded all the way closed and the pump just can't make enough pressure to actually overcome whatever leak is happening there I don't think that's the issue with our engine because it runs really good when it's warmed up the problem only occurs when it's cold the other problem that sometimes happens with these things is the ICP sensor stops working or it gets stuck at one pressure or another pressure and the PCM can't interpret what's going on so it won't fire the injectors through the injector driver module even though it actually has enough oil rail pressure to do it because it doesn't think that the pressure is high enough because the ICP sensor is lying to the to the PCM so in that case you can just unplug the ICP sensor and the PCM will default to some you know default value let's say 700 psi or something like that and at that point it will command the injectors to fire and if your engine starts up and runs then you just have a bad ICP sensor or some kind of bad wiring from the ICP sensor to the PCM okay so anyway let's try to recreate the problem that we had yesterday is actually the following day and see if we can monitor ICP and IP our percentages while the truck is having its little fit okay guys so one of the hardest parts about working on this truck is that there's there's a lot of variables the the previous owner of this truck he went all Andrew Cammarata on the fuel system and they just hacked and slashed and you will notice that the entire fuel bowl is missing also the mechanical fuel pump is missing and they have retained the original fuel pressure regulator but kind of patched in some some hoses and hard lines and this is a real abortion so it actually has a electronic fuel pump I like out of a six litre power stroke or a six for power stroke mounted down on the frame rail and all of this super sketchy wiring over here is to run that electric fuel pump but the problem is you know how much do we trust this stuff I already pulled these wiring harnesses apart because he went all bananas on this stuff and upgraded to then well upgraded to the newer style valve cover gaskets that have the these are like the Super Duty style valve cover gaskets that have the supposedly better harness but then he just kind of grafted all this stuff together and kind of wrapped this RF tape around it and sort of hope for the best anyway I removed the intake tube here it's got a goofy cold air intake thing and he put on it and a few brackets here so we could see what's going on I just pulled the plug out here I wanted to check the high-pressure oil reservoir and it's definitely full what in the heck is going on here all right well I guess power of the visual inspection that's your IPR valve right there and that's the the coil the armature I don't think it's supposed to be like that oh there's the yeah there's the nut and everything laying down in the valley there so the IPR valve came apart geez well there's your problem lady okay well maybe we should fix that first huh god stupidest video on YouTube okay well that obviously is a problem I don't know if it's the problem but it certainly isn't helping anything so there's the pieces that fell off the back of it okay stupidest diagnostics on YouTube let's fire it up and see what it does okay let's try to start in the truck this is after I put the jam nut back on the IPR valve and I'm using the max assist 906 bTW from auto but like I said you can use pretty much any I'll be obedient that has live data the only trick is this is a 95 so it's not a hundred percent obd2 compliant plus this is over 8,000 pounds GVW so it doesn't have all the obd2 stuff that it was required to have a year later on smaller truck so anyway here we go there we go so we got ICP pressure but now still won't start it the glow plugs again I smell fuel so I know it's there we go that looks okay actually kind of high-pressure for Idol but that seems reasonable let's let it run for a while see if it does the same thing again huh so just died so that was not our problem you see the ICP pressure started to drop but the the IPRA valve never actually tried to move to compensate for it [Laughter] [Laughter] [Music] [Music] [Music] yeah ICP pressure came way back up that's kind of going all over yeah what is it doing I PRS fully open 50% it's full god that is crazy okay that's that's the event right there it starts going nuts but that all seems way too high this is just nuts gonna die you hear it every time the the ICP pressure drops down below a thousand it sounds normal oh man this thing sucks so that was quite an event right there what set that off is I I revved up the engine a little bit so boosted the throttle and it just could not recover so yeah this is all wrong okay all right guys I'm getting pretty pretty confident that this truck needs an IPR valve injection pressure regulator valve it just seems like there's no correlation between the injection control pressure and what the ECM is commanding the IPR valve to do as far as I know the valve runs basically an open loop so the ECM sends out a signal to the IPR valve and it says hey you need to open or close such in such a mount and the way that just decides how much to open or close that is depending on the L throttle position I don't know manifold pressure but mostly the reading from the ICP sensor the injection control pressure sensor so that that sensor is saying hey the control pressure is already high enough we need to bring this down then the ECM you know lowers the duty cycle of the IPR valve and for whatever reason it seems like there's just no correlation now what I don't understand and what's really bugging me is we know that our IC piece pressure is too high it's run in like an 1,100 psi at idle should belike than half that and for whatever reason the ECM keeps demanding it to go higher up to 50% duty cycle and I know it gets mad because there there isn't a corresponding change in the ICP pressure that it's looking for but I don't understand why it's initially commanding it to go up it doesn't make sense to me but I guess maybe if the thing just you know isn't getting the feedback that it needs it's just kind of going crazy or it has some default strategy to try to go up or down to look for a change in the ICP sensor I don't know what we kind of need is a is a known good and I don't have one but I think I know where we can find one all right here we go we're working on my dad's 95 f250 and it actually works correctly not a whole lot different it's just weird seeing one that hasn't been all molested okay almost 15 minutes into it and it's finally running the way it should be the oil must be up to temperature for some reason I don't have an oil temperature kid so I can't check that but this is what it should have been like all along [Applause] okay so we go ahead and pull that IPR valve out of there I'm feeling pretty confident I mean I don't have a 100% tested because like I said it's an open-loop system so in my mind if the ICP sensor can't control the IPR valve then the IPR valve has to be the problem because you know just using our ears we can confirm what the ICP sensor is saying which is that the pressure is too high that's why we're hearing all this knocking and pinging and you know carrying on so this is the high pressure oil pump reservoir I'm gonna go ahead and suck the oil out of it using a big syringe basically the reservoir holds about about a quart and a half I suppose and this tool is super handy this will not only call it a fluid extractor or whatever it's like a big syringe and I bought it on a whim one day and I found all kinds of uses for it [Applause] okay so there's our IPR valve well I don't know about you guys but I'm kind of curious what's inside this thing so I'm pretty sure it's already junk so I might as well crack it open and see you see what's going on inside J we got a tiny little pin I guess that's our pintle that the coil acts on okay guys I don't really see a smoking gun here I mean there's lots of little pieces and parts and they all seem to be for the most part okay there's some kind of spool or something inside of this portion of the valve that I can't get apart it must be pressed together so that doesn't seem to be serviceable you know normally if we were having some kind of high pressure oil problem you know like especially a no start condition where yeah it just won't build high pressure you know and we could pop the valve covers off look for an obvious leak and then you know usually it's just the IPR valve won't close but in this case it seems like the IPR valve won't close or open reliably it's not doing what the ECM expects to see when it commands it to be opened or closed the only thing that I that still bothers me is I don't understand why it would command the duty cycle on the IPR valve to be higher even though it's trying to lower the actual pressure in the system you know why do we get that weird ramped up in duty cycle at the kind of at the end there before it dies so I don't know it's it's got to be some kind of a strategy with the ECM that it doesn't know what to do when the ICP pressure that it's reading doesn't jive with what it's telling the IPR about to do the only other option is that it has a bad ECM or there's some other input to the system that's throwing it off and you know it's something that I'm overlooking and I guess if we're gonna throw a party that will throw parts at it in the order of you know price so we'll start with the APR valve it's about 250 bucks if we still have problems then I guess maybe we'll go after the ECM it does seem like the signals that are going on to the IPR valve match what we're seeing on the scan tool the only thing is I didn't check it with the scope while it was having one of its fits you know where it was losing control and and surging and everything like that so yeah I don't know it's just a temperature part of it is messing with me because that seems so likely to be an electrical problem you know that gets cold and some solder joint opens up or something as soon as it warms up everything's cool again I don't know a reliable way to verify the function of the IPR valve really the best way to test it is with a known good and I don't have that I do have a known good IPR valve for a 6-litre power stroke but it's it's quite a lot different and I don't think it would it would help us in this situation in the meantime there's plenty of other things we can do to this truck so this is a seal kit for the the oil cooler and I've already been into this once before I took the oil cooler off about about nine months ago sometime late in the spring last year and resealed it one of the o-rings big ol rings here was cracked and ever since I replaced it it's been leaking out of the rear oil cooler pedestal one of these formed gaskets is leaking so anyway I used the same felt Pro kit before they warrantied it out for me but it's only like eight bucks for this kit so anyway we'll throw that in there and then we're gonna have to drain the coolant out to do that so I want to go ahead and put a thermostat in because my thermostat doesn't open reliably so I got a new thermostat a new thermostat go gasket and it's overdue for an oil change so we're gonna do that plus I mean we're gonna have the high pressure oil system open anyway so a good idea to change the oil while we're doing that now we're also gonna replace the block heater because the one I have shorted out and almost burn the truck down actually got extremely lucky I plugged it in one morning and I was just standing at the counter getting my lunch ready or something in the morning and I just happened to look out the window and see flames coming out of the cord so yeah right here where it plugged into the extension cord that I had it actually caught on fire and you know flames going up the front of the grill so I ran out and unplugged it real quick I can't believe it would do that without popping a breaker but it did well it's all this green goo about that doesn't look good oh boy water pump kinda looks like it well I guess we better do a pressure test before we drain the coolant out great okay I'd say we're leaking out of the upper radiator hose right where it goes into that the thermostat housing right there must have a bad clamp or something so we're gonna have that off anyway so that's no big deal okay that thermostat housing is the only leak I see I just tighten up the post lamp a little bit and it sealed it right up so we'll get off easy on that one anyway I'll go ahead and drain the coolant out and we'll go out to the oil cooler first hope you guys want to go to the bathroom so pop the oil filter off I like to drain them before I take them off especially when they're you know big ones like this this is a homemade tool that I have for doing this I made this back when I was a kid probably 16 years old it's just an old screwdriver it's the old style where the the handle is forged all the way through and it's got these two little kind of wood scales I just ground it to a point and it makes a really good filter piercing tool but sometimes on big trucks where they have big oil filters they're so heavy and awkward trying to get them down out of there that you know you'll knock them over and spill oil all over the floor so it's better just to drain them out so while we're waiting for those things to drain I'll show you the rest of the accommodation of the fuel system down here so what this is is an electric fuel pump off of like a 2003 or newer Super Duty with the the six liter or 6.4 liter Powerstroke diesel engines they might use this with the 670 I can't remember anyway these make about 60 psi of pressure using an electric pump right here then there's also a filter built in here and a water separator this is a drain for your water separator and then this is just a caterpillar filter base so that's a standard cat filter number right there fuel filter but you see he just kind of jammed some rubber fuel hose over top of the old where the old quick disconnect lines would have would have plugged in and you know it works but it's pretty sketchy it leaks a lot I had to tighten up these fuel clamp these hose clamps all the time the wiring is super dodgy and you know the more I look at it the more I just want to tear it all apart and put it back the way that it should be or make some proper you know quick disconnect fuel lines with plastic line because the problem is none of this rubber hose is rated for biodiesel so eventually it's all gonna get hard and crack and we're gonna be stranded you know you got hoses that say not for use with fuel injection systems and you know hardware store barbed fittings and you know whatever so I had a few guys that were kind of curious on a follow up of this dipstick kind of fitting right here in the side of the pan we resealed that using a kit from what was it diesel or INSCOM or something like that anyway this is six months later and it has not leaked a drop so I'm I'm real happy with the repair we did there it seemed pretty sketchy at the time but yeah it's it's worked out perfectly okay so on the driver's side of the engine this is the oil cooler right here it's a regular log style cooler just like any you know Cummins or whatever engine would have on it and this is the oil filter base slash oil cooler pedestal so in order to get this oil cooler off we have to take this oil cooler pedestal off and we also have to take out the block heater now the block heater actually sticks in side the block here you know a fair amount couple inches so you can't get the whole thing Wrangell apart without taking this block heater out first so don't make that mistake so normally what happens with these oil coolers is there's a couple of big o rings right here on this the actual oil cooler itself and they will get you know hard and brittle over the years and crack and you'll start getting a lot of oil leaking out of here on cold startup and then once the thing warms up your oil leak will be less or even go away so in that case you just got to take this rear pedestal off pull the thing off replace the o-rings it's not a big deal but where ours is leaking is from this gasket right here which I replaced as part of replacing the oil cooler seals but something has gone wrong Oh okay I have your bucket handy just even though I drain the radiator we does not drain the block okay now I don't know if you guys can see it but there is a drain plug right here on the side of the block I believe that is the coolant drain okay the oil cooler is out and I think I see the problem so this oil pressure regulator is supposed to be staked in there see there's four spots where it was originally staked into the aluminum housing and you see right there on the gasket it's missing the big chunk right there so I don't know maybe I did that when I installed it does well pressure regulator was was popped out or something and I didn't get that lined up before I tightened it up or I don't know maybe the gasket was defective I just didn't see it when I put it together but yeah there's your problem lady okay well we found something I was worried there might be a crack in the housing or something like that by the way if you think you can change one of these oil coolers without making a mess on the floor you are delusional so just plan on that and if you're working on the ground laying on your back I feel for you buddy I've done that way before and it sucks so normally when I've done these oil cooler jobs in the past I just leave that front royal cooler pedestal alone you see it right there dripping some oil and cooling on the floor if it's not leaking there's no reason really to mess with it but it kind of looks like ours maybe is leaking a little bit tough to say cuz everything leaks on this truck but I think I'll go ahead and pull it out of there it's just two two bolts holding it in there and well we have a gasket for it we might as well replace it but if you're just looking to replace the o-rings on the oil cooler there's no reason to remove that front pedestal and I think if you watch you guys watch diesel Tech Ron on YouTube that's how he tells you to do it as well okay everything is clean ish and ready to go back together I took a small punch and just you know tap these stakes a little bit more so that this pressure regulating valve or relief valve whatever it is will stay in the filter base or the pedestal here okay new o-rings installed on the oil cooller lived him up with some silk lied and I'm ready to shove that thing back in now it has these ears that keep the thing from kind of oriented the right direction and that's only gonna matter on the rear pedestal the front pedestal does not have this little notch right here these oil coolers are incredible I don't care what you do with them they just leak oil forever yeah let's go okay that might be it yeah I think that's it how much oil can it leak on my floor kind of like yeah okay prime are [Music] burial [Music] okay new block heater and the new block heater comes with a new cord so we're gonna have to fish this through it mounts to some special little tabs on the frame rail anyway I'll take care of that okay we're all done underneath the truck for now I still gotta tie up this cord for the block heater but I can do that I think mostly from the top here's the old cord like I said one that caught on fire we're not gonna reuse that new oil filter prefilled with oil and I got the oil drain out of the pan so yeah let's go up top and finish up so the thermostat looks to be pretty easy I just loosened the serpentine belt and I went ahead and pop these hoses loose so that's the one that was leaking you can see that neck is pretty rusty so anyway this has to come off here anyway to change the thermostat so be a good time to clean it up of course typical international he's the smallest freaking bolt heads possible in dissimilar metals in coolant little 8 millimeter heads on these guys Oh well I'd say not its first thermostat somebody left behind the trail of RTV silicone but let's not judge cuz we're probably gonna do the same thing based on how rusty this thing is there we go okay we're gonna clean up that gasket surface I showed this tool in a previous video it's a roll lock adapter with this extra-long Arbor on it and I was saying about how it's real handy for for doing thermostats cuz you can't you can't reach down in there easily and then I promised I would put a link to where you could buy one of these but I'll be jiggered I can't find it anywhere I'm pretty sure I bought this off the Mac Tools truck eons ago if anybody knows who makes this or where a guy can buy one put it in the comment box and I will I'll pin it or whatever and yeah you guys can pick one up for yourselves otherwise I'm sure it would be a pretty straightforward deal to make it to make one you'd this stuff all just kind of threads together but [Music] is it really is handy for doing stuff just like this okay everything's clean new thermostat appears to be the right one and the new thermostat gasket now the problem is take a look at this cooling elbow she's pretty rough so first thing we're gonna do is pound these bolt holes back down so that this thing is actually flat then we're gonna put some RTV silicone around here just like the last guy did and I know that's against the rules you're not supposed to use our t v-- silicone with an o-ring because the o-ring is supposed to seal all by itself but you guys try that and let me know how it works I'm gonna put a little bit of an insurance policy on here because I don't want to do this again we're probably already gonna be back in here again pretty soon because the top part of this coolant elbow looks pretty sketchy to I I'd say we're almost through right there so that's what 25 Illinois winters will get you okay a little bit of silicone drop this guy on here like such and then anti-seize on the bolts and there's certain applications where you always want to use anti-seize on a bolt anytime you're dealing with a thermostat or a water pump bolt in my opinion unless it goes into the water jacket which case it means the sealant you need to put anti-seize on it typically you're dealing with dissimilar metals you know steel and aluminum plus high heat plus the corrosiveness of the coolant itself if it isn't maintained okay didn't a VE just do a big to-do about how you never start a bolt using a socket you know I don't want to rant but you read all this stuff on the internet oh you never started a bolt with a socket oh you never put our TV on the sauna gasket oh you never put our TV on us on an o-ring okay well pretty soon you start believing all that stuff and you never get anything done every rule has an exception okay torque to factory spec don't put your thermostat in upside down usually that is possible so one other thing too because this neck was all rusty we need to inspect the inside of the hose and you can see it's all kind of covered with that scaly rust so I found if you just kind of knead it a little bit work it around you can generally clean that stuff up and reuse the hose and we'll just take a rag and scrub the inside of it and everything will be just fine but we don't want to just jam it back on with all this crusty scaly buildup inside here they'll use a new hose clamp that old one was pretty crusty well I think we need a new tensioner that doesn't sound too good I don't think that's normal see the way it kind of kicks out like that so we'll add that to the shopping list for when this thing goes under the knife again and lookie what I've got I don't want it getting out of there that one new IPR valve and if you notice the second-to-last number there is a C I believe that's an international part number I did call my international dealership here to see if they can get one for me I don't know my dealership the International dealership here is terrible you telling me got a 95 7 3 power stroke and it's just like well we can't find parts for that and then I think the Ford dealership might actually be worse my Ford dealership here does not sell parts they get all their parts through an independent auto parts store who is a motor craft distributor does that make any sense how can you be a Ford dealership if you don't sell parts anyway we got it I'll throw it in real quick you don't need to see that super easy so this does appear to have an updated design there is no plug in the end here so we can actually kind of see down inside anyway 250 dollars from my local auto parts supplier for the genuine motor craft part they have an aftermarket one too but it's it's really not that much cheaper it's like a hundred and ninety-eight dollars so for that kind of money I'm going oh em okay I'm gonna go ahead and prime the high pressure oil pump reservoir we'll just pour some oil back in that same hole that we sucked the oil out of earlier otherwise we're gonna have to crank and crank and crank and crank and crank and crank until the actual engine oil pump fills up the high-pressure oil pump reservoir so this will just help the engine start a little bit easier okay we've got oil we got some coolant a lot to top that off probably once we get it warmed up but it's good enough to get it started I say we start it and see what happens I'm pretty good normally they run like that for about 20 minutes before all the air gets out of that high pressure oil system anytime you tamper with that you get air inside takes a long time to bleed out well runs pretty good now the catch is that it's warm in here so I guess we won't really know until we put her outside for a cold soak but I think we've got it licked even when it was warm it never ran that good when he first started it up so I feel pretty confident that we got the problem solved I'm gonna uncover odda these wiring harnesses and put the intake stuff back together then yeah I think we'll be done for now I'll have to order a new tension here I thought you guys might like to see this camerado wiring here so they did actually solder the wires but I think only you maybe two of them actually have the the shrink wrap covering the conductor's and maybe three of them the rest of them they just pretty much completely missed so bare conductors that's why they had them all wrapped up with tape and I mean these are so soppy sloppy solder joints and then this RF shielding that's just a total nightmare but it gets better check out the wiring for that electric fuel pump so it actually has a relay which is a good thing but that's about the only part of it that's good so we've got a exposed quick disconnect terminal down here we got a 40 amp fuse on ibadah I don't know maybe a 14 gauge wire here you got another even worse open quick disconnect terminal that one could pretty easily snap up against the frame and then to power the relay looks like we just jammed the wire in beside this 30 amp fuse I don't know what that is kion engine on or something so we'll we'll fix all that stuff don't worry okay that's a little bit more like it we're still gonna have a big wad here I can't stagger the wires because everything was already you know it splice together once before but this is the way I like to do it using the uninsulated butt connectors and the Marine rated shrink tubing but I showed this little assortment kit that I have in the previous video working on a4 and guys were asking me where I got it I was thinking I got it from ik MasterCard but turns out that's not true I bought it from this connector supply calm so I think they sell through Amazon I'll put a link in the description if you guys are interested in buying this I like to use these things especially the black connectors the actual black connectors themselves are made by molex okay progress on the wiring so instead of jamming the wire underneath the blade of the fuse I went underneath the fuse box and just tapped in to the actual wire itself and then I patched another one that was had a spot rubbed through on it full butt splice here and then I think we're gonna have to just replace this entire wire running down the firewall here to the fuel pump I've cut four inches off of it now and I'm still finding all this white crusty nastiness that's just from the salt kind of leaching down inside the insulation alright so here's the bottom of that wire that I was showing you that's all jacked up and this is basically like how not to wire something so you see what they did here to to get a ground for the pump they just put a self-tapping screw through the frame rail and you know that might work in Arizona but I'd be surprised that that thing makes it another year in our climate what you want to do is take your ground wire and run it all the way up back up there by the fuse panel and ground it to one of the proper body grounds that's put you know high up on the body somewhere where it can't get all rusty what I'm gonna do is I've got some more of this jacketed wire this stuff's great because you don't have to put it inside a loom wrap so I'll just run a jacketed wire from down here up there to that power distribution box well I need to stop touching things this is the charge wire off the alternator and it had a big wad of electrical tape wrapped around it so I started peeling and this is the surprise I found underneath they did the old vise grip crimp routine so we're gonna have to fix that okay so I've got a new terminal but it's a little bit too big to fit on the post of the alternator it's like it a little bit too fat right here and it looks to me like the old one was probably the same way and somebody just ground the outside of it down so that it would fit so anyway I think for now we're gonna just go ahead and try to reuse this one I sort of straightened out the barrel as well as I could and we'll jam it on there see how far we get so instead of trying to crimp it with a pair of these we're gonna use the right tool this one's made by steak on it'll do anywhere from a two number eight to a number two uninsulated terminal I think this is four gauge wire but we're gonna try the number six crimp spot because it's already been crimped once before there we go doesn't look too bad okay I think that'll do just fine well I think we're done wasted done enough for today and then I did my best to tidy up this wiring over here so I also swapped out that 40 amp fuse for a 15 we'll start there see how he how we do there's no reason to have a 40 amp fuse on a fuel pump it only pulls about 6 amps full-tilt so we'll do the 15 and then these inline fuse holders are pretty nice but I prefer this style with the with the snap cap just to keep all the salt and crud out of that fuse because it'll eventually turn green and crusty where I live and then I moved the ground for the fuel pump up here off of the fire wall that's a good location for a ground nice and high away from all the salt spray and and rust and corrosion that thing down on the frame rail would never last so I know that I I approach a you know a borderline Squatch 2 5 3 level of fussiness when it comes to wiring but I deal with wiring problems almost every day and you know you just keep seeing the same things over and over again and when it comes to wiring on a vehicle in our environment you just can't cut corners you have to do it right or you're gonna be doing it again ok let's see what our ICP and IPR graphs look like post IPR valve replacement start it up real quick not the same maybe much better that's pretty much in line with what we saw on my dad's truck yeah I'm happy with that what's good [Music] [Applause] well I think that's gonna be it sorry the video kind of went on a little bit longer than what I expected yeah once we cracked that thing open there was a lot more wrong than what I realized I had no idea the wiring was so was so messed up on the truck and I'm happy that we went ahead and fixed it while we had a chance yeah as far as the engine goes I'm pretty happy with our repair the truck starts good it restarts good when it's hot I took the truck on about a 25-minute test drive everything checks out it's got good power good acceleration no missing no surging no knocking no none of that you know nonsense it idles good everything's gonna be just fine I think you know don't be surprised if it runs kind of rough for the first maybe 15 or 20 minutes anytime you get air inside that Huey system it makes some kind of kind of cough and sputter and it takes at least that long for the system to work all the air out and then once they get blood out you don't have to worry about it again anyway guys thanks for watching and if I don't get another video out in time Happy New Year's well now I get to clean up the shop because it looks like a Bangladeshi ship breaking yard in here well how about an experiment for the two guys who are still watching how many comments do you think I'm gonna get about this seat because there is a small but very dedicated group of people on the YouTube who have a obsessive need to point out the obvious yes I am aware that this truck needs a new seat I have noticed that this truck that I drive every day could use a new scene just like my shoes every time I show these boots on YouTube I get several comments saying I could use a new pair of boots somehow people think that I haven't noticed that these boots that I wear every single day have a hole in them

Channel: Watch Wes Work

Views: 256,426

Rating: 4.9283175 out of 5

Keywords: ford, international, powerstroke, heui, injection, diesel, 7.3, 7.3 powerstroke, obs ford, f-250, f-350, truck, won't run, dies, dying, rough, idle, cold, ipr, icp, injection pressure regulator, autel, scan tool, obd2, oil cooler, thermostat, coolant, oil, hpop, mechanic, repair, replace, diagnose, diagnostic, fix, leak, leaks, electrical, wiring

Id: hLZThQjHxos

Length: 63min 49sec (3829 seconds)

Published: Sun Dec 29 2019