IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019 - Men Qualifications - LEAD

[Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] good afternoon as it is here in Toulouse and welcome back to this beautiful city just to the north of the Pyrenean mountains we've got 22 climbers taking part in this immense qualification lead today looking for one of six slots a place a little further east in this Tokyo 5,000 miles away next August for the Olympic Games that is the route they'll be in competing on 4:30 had the speed already had the boulder and now it is time for the lead you can see the ruble sneaking up their read volumes black holes 50 49 moves excuse me let's have a look at the combined rankings and as you stand up the two disciplines so far it's you Faye Pam who's leading the way it's a scarcely believable morning 7 from the speed he was pretty happy with that first in the bouldering could barely believe his eyes Masum our web meanwhile he did his part in the speed by winning there and at 21st the boulder is the only person he finished ahead of was Alfred Muhammad who's currently down there in age and he gets a little tighter after that matching our sake at a moderate Andrew Coleman Kokoro Fujian hiya really need big results on the lead wall remember of course at your ranking score is your ranking in each of the three disciplines multiplied by your ranking the others so you pay pan as you can see 7:30 speed first in the boulder 7 x 1 is 7 points obviously the lower the better that's how it stands right now the exciting thing about this format is until the last climber has finished nobody's guaranteed anything and bearing in mind that Adam Andra the reigning lead world champion European champion and woke up season champion in league will be out last absolutely no one is guaranteed their ranking and their points until the very last climber has finished at their attempts here unbelievable twenty two climbers taking part we were expecting to be 20 him to lose but a little bit of confusion about the qualification system meant that we ended up with a total of 22 and they put on quite a show so far today this is how they'll start the order remains the same in the qualification round of a combine competition all the way through so it'll be Alexi rub soft out first then yone crew - aunt Bailey in the flannel Coleman both of hit have been going really well as far as the Olympic ticket is concerned we're going to take the top six climbers from this competition here in Toulouse bearing in mind of course that only two climbers per country per gender can go to the Olympics so if there are two climbers from your nation ahead of you or to Kate to climate simulations already qualified you will not be receiving an Olympic invites it may not end up being the top six climbers we're also looking for eight as well to progress to the final the final for these men will take place along a Saturday tomorrow have got the women's qualifiers Alan a Sunday we have the women's finals it's an action-packed and likely rather emotional four days here in Toulouse things have been remarkable so far earlier on in the speed realistic is always going to be a battle between our habit have bass abundant excuse me battered my whim says a very quick time on his first run better than Alfea and Bahamas then on the second run zelphia Muhammad went even quicker massive pressure on Bassam I went to take first place he managed to do it he learned it finished ahead of Alfred Muhammad in the ballroom 21st for batter and 22nd for our fee my habit and so Bassam our city pretty happy in the standing so you think anything other than 20 seconds here and lead I suspect before a bonus meanwhile you fait pan had a fantastic day 17 speed firstly the ball that he is all that male Bob for his place in the fire and likely once the two climber per country rule has been applied almost certainly for a place in the Olympics however absolutely nothing guaranteed an awful lot to be decided here on the lead room quite remarkable after so much competition just to qualify for this event so much training ahead a bit it could all come down to three or four minutes on a lead wall for all of these climbers all 22 climbers will take part on the wall will have a cleaning break after the eleventh and Evers it out ever in the climbing it comes down to which handhold you reach total of 49 if you manage this match the 49th hole and click the road new top point drawn here will be awarded atop first climbers to try their luck on the wall is Alexey rips off of Russia things have not gone according to plan for him so far today in Toulouse this is Alexi room so he fights until the end and I'm sure he will do that on this lead room we started [Music] alexia underway is still I think carrying at least the remnants of the bicep injury that he picked up in June in Slovenia I'm rather ometer understand medical definitions and injuries he more or less Tory's bicep away at the top from his shoulder rather painful and it certainly restricted him quite considerably over the summer however he did it just about enough to make it through here to Toulouse turn up a lead walk interesting route that assesses to put on here we're expecting a trick moves nothing too out there just a pretty straight up resistance route hard moves not too many big risks to be taken just resistance just keep on going and up until this point the route is said to me relatively all things big relative of course relatively straightforward it really kicks on at this big traverse out right Aleksey 22nd in the speed 15th in the boulder could have gone any worse in this speed couldn't it got much worse than the boulder for a man as quite as accomplished as him what can he do on the lead wall he's go going pretty well so far for the first time we hear a vuvuzela go around the arena and 49 holes on this route and that's Alexi just past halfway actually is it going pretty well so far climber's have had observation standing six minutes observation that's about half an hour ago looks like Al actually really beginning to fight a is in our camera Sean somewhere there is it's a really strong performance though from Alexis know primarily as a boulder it's going exceptionally well the legs who rubs off obviously far too early to make any predictions about where this might leave him but almost three minutes elapsed kind of farmers hands here particularly through this steep section is staggeringly steep as well actually goes completely horizontal for a while one of the crunch moves coming up going up to that dual textview black pocket that you'd see just above the lip where the horizontal section of the wall mapped [Music] this is our dream I was talking about he got it and or could clip and then a really powerful Club cross through over the lakes here up some absolutely crushing it so far didn't look too tricky at all to get himself locked off on the right arm go up with the map up again to the pocket he's not had a great day here in the South of France things have just gotten off a lot better for Alexi rubs off crowd getting behind him now there's an absolute legend of the game and a warrior on the wall how much further can he fight no doubt he's getting pretty pumped now Alexi room so volts a whole fourth he falls only five quads ago before the top but there will be a 44 for Alexi rubs off and that is an excellent score the man is still carrying an injury and it's unlikely to have done enough to make it through to the final you would imagine climbing for little more than pride strong performed some heroes suspenders maybe nervous perhaps cooked if elects he's getting that far when he's not fully fit way to go yone cruder out next to try his luck Lexi was 19 through the overall standings coming out to that I was about finally it flashes about my through 350 ranking points so yeah they crude annexin to be Sean Bailey in six minutes as per lead work out here for the climbers [Applause] so yet a cruder 17 in the speed ended up seven in the boulder he's very much in that category of climate was an awful lot riding on this hard to tell exactly what the cutoff will be for qualification for the final a good result in bold and not a great one to be porzel in speed means a year an innocent find something pretty massive here on the lead role Oh very low fall from unity because the holes actually came off the wall I'm trying to think of I've ever seen that before and obviously the officials flood it onto the stage that caught me by surprise I can't imagine what it was like for you now I think he's okay yeah the official just check is smiling yeah the hole came clean off the wall well it's not something you see every day yeah they could see the funny side of it so can the baler suspend so one or two people can't quite see the fuzzy side of it let's have another look it was that one Wow his good reactions from yone crew he pulled it off and the first thing he did was cover his head because he knew there was about to be a volume flying down I'm struggling to think I've ever seen that we've seen holes move you see hold spinning climbers complaining that holes are loose but I can't think if I've ever seen one just literally come clean off the wall the recesses of course now has to decide whether they can just bolt it back on to replace the volume with a new one because I mean again it seems some structural damage was done so the volume as he pulled it off yeah there is the structural damages one way of putting it torn apart and you can see that it looks like there was that screw and four others holding it in place surprised to see it snap but here's what appears to have happened worst case scenario I suspect is that they need a new volume in which case I really hope they have a few one so one of our obsessed team heading back up say I seem to reinstall the volume think there must be some fairly significant damage to the volume itself [Music] put him back on the exact exact same one in the same place sure we have to take the risk of cutting someone's hand oh but surely have to take the damaged part of pull off some of the damage bar just fired on the street through it some another look good reaction should be only this is a volume coming his way understandable he got his head out the way as it is it missed entirely hardwired shop somewhere here and time Foy probably about to clean up route set afire screws it to this to hold the entire wall static damage to the volume well the volumes clearly taken a bit of a hit but it's being it's being fired back up Oscar Mayer was well as the world gets reassemble let's have a look at the combined rankings as it stands right now you say Pat leading the way if it will finish this way it'd be you Fay Pam bottom eyewear Machin era sake Adam Andra and Nathaniel common tecora Fujiyama and Alfie and Mohammed in the top eight just got an official come over to give me a little bit more information dear to treat so what about our officials is just headed over and told me that um a will now have a rest of eleven minutes because it's called number eleven apparently so we will have a short break so go put the kettle off get a Brita beer out the fridge beverage of your choices if you're watching us live here in Toulouse very shortly when le feu de comes back out for a second [Music] [Music] the past few days together it's simple one of the minutes just like it was in two minutes from the rear end now [Applause] so yoni cruder is back out he's done his best to rearrange the lead wall but the recesses has undone all this hard work and put the volume back on family the volumes been repaired you can see here I certainly will if we get a closer that there's still some damage visible on it if you are just tuning in Charlie Bosco here live from Toulouse or in the South of France for the Olympic selection event you and a crew to the second climber out on the lead route and he pulled at a volume clean off the other volume it's attached to it it's the volume who's currently got his left hand off you can see but it's damage to the volume shared a way through the screw but held in this time of year they haven't had a fixed rest period that is his right after a technical incident like that is underway again it doesn't seem to face it's empty phase at the time feet can't lose for urinating sprint looking a little hip powerful lap said it's said to be a pretty classic endurance true hip nothing nothing too flashy just a straight-up battle Aleksey room stuff went really well on it in your knee crude is looking pretty handy as well definitely tell he's getting a little bit pumped heading up to towards hole 33 so just to give you an idea that forty nine holds in total 33 baguette shaped hold just above the lid there it is a lot yeah you can see the one I mean the baguette shape come on we're in France that is hole 33 so not far off a third of the way so you only head sounds this section that is absolutely horizontal he's got that powerful cross through moves of the deep pocket 44 the score of a lakes erupts of talking about so much riding in this for yearly cooties can having it scruciating a couple of hours just waiting for able to finish to see what his rank is all he can do right now is fight with everything he's got and he's going to come up a little short of election room so by my master by my observation tease me that'll be a forty plus for a year they back up at the roof this is where we lost him it's a big move up hold 40 he got a good handle on 41 but he definitely can control it 40 year 40 plus 3 - Sean Bailey climbing next the American no American man yet qualified for the Olympics so there are potentially two slots available for the Americans competing here Sean Bailey Daniel : they both have good days particularly Daniel : v Boulder and signalling speed Sean Bailey 90s in speed although he went well by his service it wasn't enough for any better than 1916 the boulders both having good days DNA just explaining that no nothing did hit him shot Bailey our next so six minutes begins for Shaw Bailey [Music] that's the volume is broken you get a good look at the damage there I don't see how that would cause any problems it's basically one part the volume it's more or less impossible to use underneath that other body yeah the visits very much damaged very much [Music] see Sean Bailey competing in there generally considered his strongest discipline of lead it's a big result here [Music] [Music] I'm pretty quickly here shop it was just over two minutes elapsed already finds himself and pretty much 2/3 height on the route control the swing nicely nineteenth speed 16 Boulder really Sean Bailey would hope to be ahead of Alexi MUA both of whom are more boulders and lead climbers to need a pretty low score something in the single figures aren't imagine if you want to have a look at the final on Saturday really struggling with a cliff on that sort of terrain there's elastic you need just hang in his lap looking tired here Sean Bailey I'm looking off a lot more tired after that mistake feet cut loose just when he didn't want them to these just recover his composure he appears to have done it pretty quickly now crosses through to the big pocket this is the move coming up from here where we lost yearly cruder get this a pretty vocal support gets that moved on remember it sir 44 it's a score of a leg tea room soft that Sean Bailey is hunting down 44 is the middle black hole on this next volume that's 43 45 their spacing skips straight through it Sean Bailey he's out 246 if he come loose again second time that's happened for Sean Bailey just trying to get himself in a position to click the quick draw better he's got a clip every quick draw in order so free about to the right any Joss misses it but Sean Bailey will go into first place after three climbers with his cap at rate the fan your Coleman still to come [Music] tough for the confessors you can see Shaw burly days really offering motor reaction just so this nothing he could do it this age it's got a sit and watch everyone else and see what your ranking ends up as that's not an easy situation so three climbers down nineteen still to go remember 22 taking part here [Music] then your Coleman will be out next and after such an amazing morning where his second at the speed amazing early afternoon in the Ebola where he was fish doesn't need to have an incredible result here on the lead wall anywhere in the top half will be enough [Music] actually didn't get the role properly McCrystal there we go it's right for his face he has corrected it quite dangerous achieve the rope sporting the gate is against the rope gets loaded but it's really corrected its annual Coleman the fourth climber out for 422 these farmers are gunning for eight spots in the final took place on Saturday but really more importantly they're looking for six slots in the Olympics there's a volume the yen a cruder removed we back on now [Music] they work people cutting loose it's one of the few risky moves on the roof socially that pop out to the right screw on hold on the final red triangular volume they're awfully risky music definitely looking tired a little more tired the other climbers at this stage that Samuel Coleman he's still going strong it's pretty barely this Traverse just my ankle in the Contra box which is pretty much that one kind of look at his face breathing hard definitely grimacing a bit it's still not jerking for these moves too much she's still able to move in something something like control pump gently beginning to kick in gets a kneebar then we'll just alleviate the pressure ever so slightly take a quick look down at the clock and we've been pretty happy with what he sees he's well past halfway so he just now that his time clicks - halfway six minutes of course to do the route from what we've seen I don't think anyone will be troubling the timekeepers too much I think everyone is going to either top the routes and fall within six minutes from what we've seen [Music] come on so he's out to where things get really steep Nathaniel Coleman having to throw for these lose a little bit more and a bit like Sean Bailey did before him the feet cut loose not me when you want them to least feeling every bit of that move now to the pocket again like Sean Bailey the last thing you want is that fiddly clip and a bit like Laurent as well lower down the Rope is not correctly in that quick tour or the gate is being held open by the rope here goes the thumb your Coleman he knows it's happened Larry goes and corrects it we did a couple of moves while the Rope was sitting indicated a carabiner on the quick-draw and he's been fighting for a minute or so before that Nathaniel Coleman we found will be a forty plus for him same score easier a crew D will wait to see just as there might be j.lo a doubt 41 philosophies me for so as now that's how it stands with of course the thunder of Coleman's rank is almost certain to change if a patent is on the search change as well because it's gotta be enjoy fit but Nathaniel Coe would force him water plus Tennessee moves him ahead of you and a cruder Lightyear Nate all he could do now is sit and watch and hope [Music] Angie pedheart now Arbor Siviglia 20th in the speed and there's 17th in the bold it's not been a great day for Angie make amends here on the arthelene wall [Music] he will need the performance of a lifetime do enough to make it through to the final right Oh beer Angie just talking to him earlier and he just said well if I leave satisfied with how I did in each discipline said results will be what they are and the right way to think about it but objectively been a disappointing day from let's say the great thing about this combined format visit it's not done until it's done it's a scrapper you will fight forever even until his arms will give him no more now you see my visions to get to quips almost for the price of one there and Jake [Music] struck into the Traverse now just missed a couple of boulders in the boulder early on today ended up shunting him and well down the order suspect might feel that he could have done slightly better on the boulder wall but he thinks going to plan so far on the lead wall climbing essentially quickly as well less than two minutes elapsed as he hits our resultant second taking a long break here and shake now he goes up that's hole 33 that distinctive baguette shape chooses actually just a chalk up once more before get it going is out to the left picked up his first and only World Cup podium earlier on this year that was in Boulder what could he do in the lead you can see how tired he's getting Angie but he's fighting with everything he's got here and she asked mrs. that move up to 41 so that's going to be a 40 plus for energy same score as his compat rate here they cruder just sort of reading his body language he said there's not much more I could have done there caption the B layer say not much more Angie could have done that was a lousy boobs are so few moves higher this with you and James right now Sean Bailey currently sitting in first place remember for Sean Bailey whilst he might suspect that somebody might catch him past his high point in every climate it doesn't his ranking is guaranteed to be slightly better it's all about ranking in a caballo competition like this your rack in each disciplines to what everybody else does really does directly affect you talk to you people that might take that I point away Stefano ghisolfi not quite looked himself here in the eye FSC competitions of 2019 the last couple of seasons 17 and 18 he was second overall in the world comes for lead in 2000 90s not quite been there if he's got his timing right his training has been absolutely perfectly planned then he will peak here today right here on the lead wall winner of five League welcomes hasn't won any this season but he finally made his way back onto the podium and inside Japan a month or so ago so perhaps perhaps he is hit people just matters most he'll need to 21st in the speed and 16th in the boulder so he needs a very low ranking number next to his name after the lead so certainly slightly risky dynamic moves seemingly were these bags of endurance stuff though you can see if just glancing around not a care in the world the concoction-- now we're launch into the Traverse climbing much slower than some climbers who've seen some of whom we're at the horizontal roof by this stage two minutes elapsed it's one of the luxuries of being quite as good a lead climber as Stefano is you can hang on all day I'm troubled as yes I see climbing significantly slower than some people putting his endurance to good use making sure that every move is secure and done efficiently [Applause] Stefano commits out left clever little use of that toe hook and you can see just the ways moving so much less tense and less tired than some of the bouldering specialists have been here so far things really kick in here though he's looking for a 46 plus to catch and pass short Bailey that's going up for that last black volume with the red hole on top that's hold is 47 and 48 when you match it so that's that was the move where Sean Bailey fell Stefano ghisolfi getting himself in position latches it Stefano ghisolfi gets old 47 gets 48 gets 49 and gets the top that is exactly what he needed and there could be a spot at the Olympics riding on that he lowers down and now we'll have a unbearable hour and a half watching everybody else come out and seeing whether all his dreams are going to come true here into losers nothing more he can do he's top the route have to say never really look trouble way it was only this move that looked like it might have stopped it let's have another look I was so accurate I think as soon as that left-hand route landed he knew he done it he was celebrating already obviously wasn't too nervous about the top move he's found the top it move it to first place and we'll just have to sit and watch hard to know what you do in that situation I met a Stefano ghisolfi attempted just to disappear and come back in an hour's time surely just sit watch you'll have a little minute to calm down Alfia Muhammad is climbing next and I think it's pretty unlikely to find a top himself he's very much a speed climber it managed to find one's own during the bouldering the reality is for Alfred Muhammad that's anything other than 20 seconds if he could beat faster my web realistically I think anything so better would be a good result for him on the lead walls [Applause] [Music] [Music] pretty well actually here Alfia Mohammed this is a tricky move out and up it's to the right though [Music] here he goes Oh Mandy just hold on so he didn't even hit the good bit of the whole dive you can see his pharmacy far to the left this is a really strong performance about FEMA however this is where the route really really begins to kick in and he got the risk he moved up and then couldn't quite find a way through the next one [Applause] alpha Mohammed unties second in the speed climbing of 22nd in the boulder let's see where he ends up in the lead I would imagine without wishing to give anyone a hard time but I would imagine it's between him and bastard marwene for 22nd and 21st in the lead but as Vionnet cruder has already demonstrated by pulling a volleyball just about anything could happen Yannick slow way will be out next here he comes with pass of our women after him and it's catered oh here then Alberto he knows Lopez an inflow his foot slipped of a key moment talk about someone who please just had the day slip away from him 15th in the speed and then 20th in the boulder just what are we three months on from when he picked up a world championship medal in Boulder so today has not gone well at all for Yannick flowy [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] crowd cooing right behind him as well in my thoughts about our Stefano ghisolfi was climbing at a nice steady pace anything but from Yannick flowy 420 still left on the clock he's into the roofs barely pause we've seen a lot of climbers break down where he's got his feet and when they used in those holes as happen holes have taken a long break Yannick flowy at no such concern just wants to get on with things [Applause] [Music] here he goes Yannick flow needs a massive performances and even the slimmest of chances making the final here in Toulouse and this is doing him no harm at all that's him up to 42 past 43 44 beckons there it is at 45 were both needs to get the clip done I think you son leaves have interrupted his climbing flow and Fillmore better get something quit he was just going out towards 46 it'll be 45 plus for Yannick flow that's a pretty handy score you know that's going to put him into third place right now I think he knew the game result didn't even attempt to quit the quick draw front of his face so let's see where it leaves in it we said it in commentary in the bowl dirt or parts of the qualification the day is just sort of drifted away from him 50 through the speed not the end of the world but then 20th English Interpol they're just not at all what he wanted you can see there six or seven four two Slovenian zeona and Jake tied on score at this stage the competition it comes down to time that's why they're separates why they're not joint sick that's why they are sixth and seventh [Music] so wait for the cheer here wait for the fufu sailors wait for the drums here is possum our web he is all but booked his place in the final simply by winning the speed and then just as a pharmacist adding bonus not being last in the boulder if he can beat alpha in Muhammad's score here of 19 in the lead I think he probably just take that keep him a pretty handy scorer [Music] [Music] masa getting plenty of encouragement the local crowd route considered to be relatively steady through these red triangles doesn't mean it's easy at all though that's him ups are the cruder hold and I think quite rightly taking the approach is just climbing as quickly as he possibly can and he holds on to the swing pass of our web using all that power oh this is great stuff and massive our web going to be comfortably clear of Alfea and Mohamed she's definitely getting pumped now but that's him out a whole twenty two already ah Fantasticks of 23 from passive our web really cently for him this is dreamland [Applause] [Music] that's him at halfway up the route 25 30 49 of the whole route here will end up with a 25 plus that means bottom our web is going to end up 21st that means the worst he can get is 441 ranking points and if that is not enough for a place in the top eight would be absolutely staggered well the story it would be for climbing for France if it was the Marwan Brothers representing their country in Tokyo next year and Bassam our web has been absolutely superb today who's put under enormous pressure in the speed climbing he had to go pretty close to a personal best in order to win there after alfie mohammed flew up in five seven then on the boulders he managed to flash one of the zones that was enough for 21st and he's guaranteed at worse xxi here on the lead wall very very strong day from Bassam our web on how things go by the air by the time he leaves this arena this afternoon he may know that he's going to receive an invite to the Olympic Games catered oh he out now remember Jeff Japan have already filled their Olympic quota they've got two men and two women qualified but they have the right to compete in Toulouse and so they are doing bounce at the crowd okay - no he answer the B layer polite punched Japanese climbers already been out there twice this year with the IFS C we had the World Championships an extravaganza in August of almost two weeks and then another lead woke up there the final lead work of the season took place want them to go in inside just to the north of Tokyo so it's a country known well to almost all the IFS see athletes and a popular stop on tour yeah they don't have to now a few good climbers as well cated no heat no problem so far things have been going pretty well for him today fourth is a speed twelfth in the boulder pretty handy set of results rather like Stefano ghisolfi climbing pretty slowly doesn't need to rush no one's been anywhere near needing to worry about time definitely looking like it's got a bit of a scrap on the talent a okay too doughy do farming arrests at some stage if he could 3:45 left on the clock just arrived at the horizontal section head rocks backwards as if to suggest there's a lot of effort going into this I had too many big results in the lead just to lead World Cup semi z' recent years in the last couple years second the sorry the best of those results 17th in shammiracle years ago 2005 18 here he goes up to hole 33 it's the first climber where you actually need to keep an eye on the clock sliced his way out underneath the roof his 18th overall in the folder World Cups this year in 2019 catered oh here as I say we haven't seen him at the business end of many lead World Cups he's definitely been feeling the pump in he's still well just to keep on going keep on moving to 28th now he's definitely got time for more moves has it got the energy though see that bouldering power coming in handy the making the moves individually look relatively easy but definitely getting pumped doing them one on top of the other and it was just as he he slapped up towards holder 43 having lost him so I think that'll be a 42 plus joined in the country box fresh down from the front of the wall by Eddy I foresee photographer Eddie's this pretty classic endurance route it's very much a pumper you're really just seeing that it's resistance based to really just a few moves at the top there's a bit of a boulder crux on the head wall and then definitely the jumper Stefano did is going to be the separator for the route what was your view like of there Stefano going for that and move it looked like he was slightly nervous lining up for it he got in absolutely perfect from where we could see yeah unfortunately where I was he was jumping away from me when he made the catch and swung it was amazing but I didn't see his face going into it the one that got me the terrifying one was when the NA brought broke the volume because I was actually right near that on the tower and the bang was a character-building well I I said at the time as a Alberto he knows Lopez makes his way out I said at the time then he did well because the first thing he did was get his head out the way good good thinking in the heat of the moment absolutely I spoke to him just then and he said as biggest fear was the volume landing on him but he ripped it straight past him here we go with Alberto yeah I'll bet so about to get underway it's been a bit of a sensation this year in the lead he's been incredible and not just lead even he acquitted himself really well in the bold around just then it's been really impressive to see him come on I actually don't know if you showed viewing but he was working through the route with Adam it was really interesting I was shooting and I was really close to the dialogue without sharing bata he's definitely got a strong ally yeah he really does he speaks excellent English Alberto there's Lopez and observation which certainly we didn't live so you know home other words about half an hour before things covered the way here it definitely opens up a few more options feel like you see a few cars that don't speak English and it limits who they can talk to in observation if you've got access to a democracy resource absolutely it can't lead you down a false trail if you're listening to people saying the wrong thing obviously if people are reading the beat it wrong but the more people you can hear what they're saying and share ideas with the more you can come up with what will work for you and yeah I do definitely think that you ever want to speak English or you want a few fewer people sharing a language review doing the route so for instance summer for Japanese not so strong in English but were four from here they they've got a lot of ideas sharing going on cuz he is of course the only Spaniard taking part in Toulouse I think a lot of neutrals would be pretty pleased to see him through absolutely I think as you said he is a rising star and to see someone like him come through the ranks really quickly and it's been an interesting season because we've seen that a bit before ladies you had shown so you had me a cramp oh really have a breakout yeah Lucia reykjavik taking out european lead who should carry bucyk taking out european boulder so you really had a breakout of the young woman but you didn't so much see anyone coming through the guys and then Alberto just bang like it was super impressive to see us as progression yeah and it's have a good day here in Toulouse I would say relatively unspectacular just stayed under the radar but at level 2 speed 11th in Boulder so it's a pretty good start combined point total as it stands at one to one and he is certainly strongest on the lead walls so he's got a massive opportunity here al better he knows Lopez he's fine really well so fast he kept a nice cadence measuring this time well got back to time left apparently he's a glance at the clock from here on out yeah absolutely I think someone like Alberto there's still the risk of mistake so if he's not making mistakes then he should be fine and to the last bolt a problem for route really it's just it just comes down to him getting all of this right because right now the body's hurting the fingers are past their optimum and he's just got to get every move just right and then he'll be he'll be fine but one thing there are no question marks over his attitude talk about a scrapper so he'll keep fighting now Alberto hitless Lopez he's up to hold 45 if you can even attempt this move depending on time he may move up into third possibly fourth he's had got it done anyway so that's it 46 this is probably the hardest move on the whole route and if he can do it he'll almost certainly Tom here he goes lining it up Alberto Hina's Lopez hits it goes from the top the last move is pretty straightforward time could be crucial so he needs to get that clipped on as soon as possible the time stops now on Alberto he knows Lopez with 2:19 left on the clock has found a second top of the day he was see an 11th climber out we're about to have a clean e break I think the crowd will be glad of a break the vuvuzelas have been loud the drums have been loud and the Shelton's been loud I think everyone just needs to calm down for a second we've just seen the second top of the day what a moment I mean he just looks so assured I think obviously my angles have been different here but more assured than Stephan Oded on that move just bounced into it never really looked like it was gonna be a hard move from it all and yeah got the job done see him and Stefano talking to each other currently joint first they'll get separated when the judges have had a closer look I'd imagine I'm sure they will so just to clarify for me and obviously for anyone that's joining a live stream we're going to time as a separator here yeah the rule says in the event that two or more competitors a time that relative ranking of the tied competitors shall be determined by comparing their climbing times to the nearest second obviously lower is better and if they remain time then they'll watch the official video system and will try and resolve climbing title even if it comes down to a tenth of a second that'd be impressive and we haven't actually gone to a cleaning break we've got John one shot on the wall right now we through the field likewise this why I came to visit I figured we're coming up to a bit of a break and I'd have a net luckily I still do have an angle so I can shoot the climbing as I talk if you do hear some clicking in the background there's me pulling double-duty with a long lens if we could just pull men's pull the one out of the way it would be never need to go anywhere well I'll tell you what I was standing on top of men's Boulder one not by climbing it obviously and the view from up there is spectacular but it is a little bit of an impedance for for watching the climbing as a spectator you're definitely seeing all the crowd rammed across on the right so that they have a clear view of fully yeah it's true actually unfortunately there is a massive screen but yeah if you are in the venue and here on the left hand side look at the wall then you really can't see the bottom of the leader II the climb is quickly emerged over some this starte the Traverse out absolutely curious to see how jang won-jun does here he wasn't terribly happy with himself after speed or bouldering he's definitely one who knows how important this is really feeling the pressure even though if it doesn't come together from here he's still got a really good chance in Asian champs he just wants to get the job done I think that's the case with all the clubs now you can look down and think I'd have another chance there's nothing like just getting it done getting the ticket booked it just it's just done then how confident you are for the Asian champs absolutely and it's gonna make the championships really interesting because some people for instance who have performed amazingly in Hachioji but maybe didn't just make the cart I struggling here and some people that will do well here but just not making the cart will have another chance and so you're gonna be watching going into early next year through March April you're gonna be watching these comps and with only one spot per region it's gonna be it's gonna be emotional it certainly is it's certainly potential for things to get rather emotional here in Toulouse possibly within the next hour or so we shall see three minutes 35 left for John one chomp again a bit like Alberto Hina's Lopez rather kept himself under the radar but then when you look at those results after 10 to the speed and 8 in the folder of spectacular but 80 ranking points is pretty happy Ashley and it's I think a top-10 finish here would probably be enough qionghua baby I mean top tens still gonna put them on eight hundred points and that that it may be on the line but of course looks like you might have misread the sequence like Oh Sean and I think it's on turn place could be out the question now he really misread that he went up with the left hand and left himself with a really hard bumper then mistake well we've seen several people for Stefano for instance did go up a left hand there but he completely skipped the first of the two holes over left and fired straight out to the second yes your once stopped himself and then when he came up his body just wasn't in a great position as knees were coming up into the volume under the roof and it just squashed his momentum and he would definitely be devastated with that one so really disappointed result for John one shot he walked off the stage we know that he's primary we know him main Lisa Boulder of course pretty such a strongly climber as well he would have hope there's so much better I mean someone in his position he's the superb all-around climber he's done it all but this season that's been patchy firm at best and he just needed really to get a strong compen here and he just just flew just slightly below where he needed to be in Boulder and I think that's gonna hurt him into the home run he did well in speed but he was very frustrated himself he felt it could have been about half a second faster and that would have been a huge difference I think I mean these combined compositions are so relatively you think we haven't had many often but one thing that's kind of becoming clear is if you've got a discipline that you're super strong and joong-won chance a two-time season's champion in Boulder World Cups I've got to absolutely knock it out of the park on your discipline absolutely I mean do you look at speed climbers you basically have to get a 1xq name you and for someone like Sean who's slightly more of an all-rounder you still got an absolutely discipline is an all-rounder buddies elasaur overall World Cup winner and holder yes and it's definitely always been a strongest it just hasn't happened this this young guy from Russia Nikolai I've been oh I say right when he slips his foot he's been super impressive just River season in terms of consistency he's that guy that flies under the radar a little bit but he's good at everything just may be great at nothing and I don't say that in a derogatory term what I mean is it not top five in the world in any discipline but he's floating up around the top echelon and every discipline which is a nice position I can think of worse places you're not hanging on that volume was one of them fifth for him in the speed and then he was 14th in the bold about it be disappointed with the bowl of it I suppose evened out by a fantastic result into speed so on a on a total of seventy right now yeah those people that's kind of on the cusp yeah so just ahead of where John won John was but really does need at least I'd say to get into the mid forties here so get up around hold 44 or 45 to be safe because there's still some really strong lead climbers coming out I mean obviously Adam under no less but it's really gonna be yeah an interesting one of course you got Sasha Lehman still to come we got Lobos he still to come you got you fi fan who don't forget as podium the lead World Cup before to come it's still really stacked into this last nine or ten climbers and they just you cannot afford a mistake in this round unless you've earned the position of better or for instance you fa pan where you have a one next to your name any multiplication on the score here is going to hurt yeah I think that's the thing that we learned in Hachioji is because the scores aren't added they're multiplied we move down to three ranking points and you go from on the edge of the final so nowhere near exactly it can literally add hundreds to your score and then you just on the outside looking in you can I Traverse up and right as I say seventy ranking points as it stands after fifth in the speed 14th with the boulder yeah he hasn't found the body position going into the roof but a lot of them had a lot of them got a knee bar and just in the move before there and he went right through here really fast so hopefully that doesn't hurt him hopefully he's got the stamina where his left handers now there's actually a knee bar position where they can get their left foot on get the knee up it's quite a long knee bar but it definitely does give them something back and he's gone straight for it really climbing quite quickly and he just put his left hand on that dish it don't want job now cut quite sensibly I think just bumps straight through it while his feet was still solid yeah he was very dynamic for event move not I'm saying he was doing a dyno but he never lost his momentum he just pop-pop this is the critical sequence here really Oh just short of hold 43 so it going to be a 42 plus for Nicole I just look at the score so fast depending on time he'll either be 6th or 7th I believe Wow of course that's going to slide down once you get some of the big guns very nervous our really curious to see how it goes once I leave for commentary booth I'm obviously going to head back up and keep shooting but anyone looking at the photos after you're probably gonna see a lot of crowd shots a lot of athletes shots because I really get the feeling we're going to know today who makes the cut with four for Japanese athletes in that really means to the viewer one of the other six to go in you're gonna be in the right position to make Olympic qualification straight off the bat so it's an interesting scenario because effectively you're competing for your Olympic position on the Thursday or potentially and Saturday for them we'll just effectively be about Olympic seating position once in finals that of course decide to have a rank in the seeding which is enormous a unique situation because I mean in hachioji we had that situation where people knew that they've done enough for the Olympics World Championship on the line less on the line away no and this is where I feel that we're gonna have so much emotion today there's gonna be obviously relief despondency some people will be a little bit in shock it'll be like they haven't really absorbed it yet I've definitely spoken to a couple of athletes after they came off the lead route looking a little bit shell-shocked others are looking pretty chuffed it's just gonna come down to win it all things and then hits them I think what's so dramatic about this format is so it all happens so quickly it's really fast calm yet suddenly it seemed you just go oh we know we know who's going to the Olympics oh wow absolutely and it's such a random thing because obviously we've had combined events before with the FSC but they've always been at the end of a major event so you had Innsbruck Youth World Champs we had the combines just a final but at the end of you quilts and then in hachioji we had the whole combined but after so many days of competition here they're all coming into it fresh they're all coming into it full of energy trained up specifically for this and then bang it's just gone it's just over and a heartbeat sporting drama at its best and very Sugimoto the latest to play his part in it very definitely one of the old-school Japanese climbers he's been around quite a few years now when I look back in the historic photos I always see ray and I I remember he hurt his shoulder really badly looked like he was never gonna be able to compete again maybe even never climb again and he was able to come back from there and this season has been superb which is incredible when you think he must be late 20s now I'm guessing off the top of my head yeah and yes he's come back from what for many people would be a career ending in the injury and right up there yeah to Boulder World Cup wins as well let's not forget Vail in 2018 I won't forget that one in a hurry that was a I love these guys when that crowd pleases when that's so emotional so engaged and they win a comp and you just it radiates out of them it's just so much energy radiating out and so when someone like racing a motor obviously you know when he's won a couple of ball two World Cups now it's you never forget those ones because the energy is just you know I don't mean to sound like some peppy talking about energy but he's gone left hand okay he's gone straight through so he didn't use that first hold overlap at all he's pumped it bumped through which I was curious to see because obviously being one of four Japanese athletes and reading it with Kato doughy I wasn't sure if he was gonna fall into the same trap but clearly he got there feeling strong and just went straight through so here goes ray heading up that's 42 heading up I think I was in trouble very tired as he adds up to walls 43 managed to get a hand on it be definitely in control it'll be a 42 plus for Ray I tell you what the timekeepers going to be a busy person this afternoon and so much to play for if I going to be really having to make sure that the time sir I did accurate I'm sure there'll be some appeals some reviews obviously all the Federation's all the teams that are here they record all the climbs as well and there'll be time stamping to see exactly how long their climber takes and then they look at the results and if they don't agree of it they'll be up the front talking to the technical delegate and the head judge like a shot to get any Corrections made rather a lot riding on today's action tsukamoto waves the crowd he gave that one everything he had it seemed that when the pump came it came pretty pretty hard he looked great below the lip I actually thought it was gonna be fine into that section but as soon as he had I feel that that second cheater volcano the one out on the left is maybe not as good as they expect they get there and they have to really fire to get to that first hold on the red volume on the right-hand side of it and yeah alright I gonna leave you to it good sir yeah all right thanks a lot feet I'm ed and sorry to distract if you mean work always good to hear your thoughts I I'm happy to be here I was able to keep shooting through the whole thing so it's no problem for me but time to change the angles so Manuel corny comes out haven't heard a vuvuzela yet but he's surely only a mass at the time not gone well for Manuel cornu today to put it mildly sixteenth in the speed not great and then the boulder remember ISA ball the World Cup winner he ended up 18th and in the lead he is almost certainly going to end up 22nd Manuel cornu here in his home country has just had a day to forget remember of course as the European Championships for him in March of next year but the problem he's got is that Bassem our web is almost certain to take the remaining French slot by the time that European Championship rolls around next year maybe nothing left to God for for Manuel corny would have committed to lose with such high hopes but he was reliant on everything going absolutely perfectly there's only one friend slot left because Nick Omar went qualified for the Olympics in the World Championships in Hachioji earlier on this year so there's one slot left it was really between Manuel corner and Bassam our web and nothing has gone right for Manuel corny today and that basically just sums up to lose for Manu it is not gone well after all he'll who knows but he'll almost certainly be lat and 22nd May Gennaro sake out [Music] so much here now sake the second-to-last Japanese climber out kakora Fuji will climb 21st makes you underway it's such a shame about world corner remember of course that also affects the score bottom I went that fall from Mapple corner it means bastard moves up the worst he can do now is 20th things just seem to be getting better and better for Manuel Kanu and in stark contrast things just couldn't get a lot worse from our world corny his shot is gone and that remaining French sloth could have gone as well fat almost certainly will of God [Music] let's focus for now on Machin era sake simple youth world champion in years past appalled around lead they've got real caliber corny just walked past the commentary box looking like a man that slipped off at the second quick-draw [Music] fortunately formation arasaka climbing a little slower some of the climbers but you know I'm still been anywhere near troubling the the timekeepers up to hold 33 the distinctive baguette Kokoro yeah mate a cheese brother Tamar already booked his slot at the Olympics 3:20 left and only six climbers to go after matching our sake [Music] and he falls around the same areas John one child is trying to navigate his way left woods across the lip and maintain our sake who'd had a good day so far 30 the boulder at 9th in this speed has not had a good time on the lead wall and that could affect so many people because he was said anything resembling a good result would probably have put him in the final and he just got himself tangled up in knots but his foot caught on the rope a distraction just when he didn't need it like he missed a volcano as well slightly at the correct hand in it so mate seen our sake as I say was as close to nailed on for a place in the final as you can get and now far from it 39 for him that leaves him in 12 plays by induct as low down as 80 I think that will actually still be enough for him but he could have nailed on his place with the good performance of the league wall but he doesn't get what this man might get one though session layman sadly I suspect unless he can have a truly amazing job really unless even top the rules do so quickly it's probably not going to be enough he ended up with 18th in this field 19th is Boulder but he want to work up this year's incredibly strong climber his mindset will be that just has to give this route everything he's got and see where he ends up [Music] [Music] [Music] took his time through this lower station [Music] time being so crucial trying to move on it's always a tricky balance oh but this every time has got that kind of natural cadence and speed they like to move up and if you break out of that you can actually fail at your first job which is getting the moves done you're relieved I'm shorter than that slightly risky move [Music] two minutes and laps finds himself at the bottom of the big traverse outright need to speed up slightly as I say needs a massive massive result in the lead half of the way you can get that is by climb quickly should have enough time actually etc at the same time being so vital in the rankings of climbers are tied in your interest to go as quickly as you can half his time remaining slightly more so as he's not going to get timed out on the route unless something extraordinary happens if he really stalls out but he may lose ranking places you just climbed quick enough it gets the same score as someone else but gets there slower than they did [Music] took your long rest under here sets off a 240 left on the clock now it needs to read this sequence correctly when they saw John Sean I'm 18 now exactly because someone left their lines here that's nice goes up to the dish and then just bump through it get the clip done then the hard cross three move with the right hand [Music] [Music] [Applause] sascha laymen looking super strong on that Boulder problem that Eddie mentioned now get himself in position for what he's looking to be the crux of this route it's got enough energy to chalk up and then he's going to have to launch himself and go over certainly with the left hand up to that red hole right at the top of your screen there he goes and he makes it work Sascha Lehman is going to top the route but his slow climbing speed my counts against him in the standings let's see finds the top he's done all he can do around 123 the clock starts up he actually taught the read a couple of seconds before that either wait for the judges and the ifs C officials to figure out exactly how long he didn't take on the roux but he finds the third top Sascha layman I think probably well aware the roots been topped a couple of times and well aware that things didn't go to plan for him earlier on today and therefore even with that top he may not have done enough so yeah he's actually been the the slowest of the three climbs to top the routes that their boys in third at best and therefore I'm afraid we'll miss out almost certainly on the final after 18th and 19th and the other two disciplines needed a ward next to his name and as soon as you could see that he was not climbing that quickly on the roof which as I say is his style and you've got to climb with your style but it's cost him as soon as he was climbing relatively slowly you knew that even the top was unlikely to be enough and as it is he moves down into third [Music] so we'll bow see now he's had a fantastic day here in Toulouse 12th in the speed and then mines and the bold of it they look really good on the ball as he wasn't far off for tops would have put him in the first place but as it is he ended up with three tops four zones ninth place with his favorite discipline of lead still to come been training hard on the lead wall really focusing on the lead as Eddy and I was saying when Eddie join me in the Coventry box earlier one thing he needs to do in this combined format is absolutely knock it out of the park on your favourite discipline this is will BOCES favourite discipline and top if at all possible a quick top source him out in the rankings and likely booked his place in the final got the slightly risky jump move done he's sort of just puff his cheeks [Music] [Music] so keep an eye on the time things are getting pretty close [Music] and by the way yet keeping an eye on the scores Alberto he knows Lopez's 7ob soulfia are still tied on score Sascha layman who also found a tapas currently in the third place have been told that the times are very very tight between Stefano and Alberto so the FSC officials have got their work cut out to separate them to figure out exactly who is in first place things could not get much more tense here in Toulouse we'll Bhosle doing all he can do on the walls [Music] so we'll actually chooses to go to the dish and that's not really the best word did the move luckily he's got the horsepower to rescue himself from a slight mistake but that will have cost him no doubt about it he needs a big result here wilbo see came in with a hundred eight ranking points ninth multiplied by 12 from the two earlier disciplines definitely getting pumped but what's he got for these pull the problem section on the headwall he's got a real strap on his hands but he's got to bump his way up that volume and then there is something of a rest by but he can't can there and he looks really frustrated without one well Posey Lumia 44 44 plus perhaps could be him up to six but he's gonna happen he's going to join the club of climbers we've got a very nervous weight on their hands made that slight rereading mistakes pulling over the lip when he went for that dish with the left hand seemed to Causton the pump really kicked in quickly [Applause] [Music] [Applause] so yeah the higher the next climate out third in the speed with 13th in the bolder might be frustrated with that bolder result yeah third in the speed was just dreamland set the personal best and first time under six and half seconds and then the bolder he's pretty close but just miss out on the top of number one final move he couldn't do and that would really have changed everything for him launch is now into the the cruder volume is recalling it and up relatively steady lower section of the root you see there is a very big back [Music] yeah absolutely rocketing up the roof apologies are disappeared there for a second just talking to one of our officials and apparently things between Alberto who knows Lopez and Stefano ghisolfi are incredibly tight I need to watch a video replay to try and separate them to a tenth of a second so the results we show you at the end when we go off air here in Toulouse may not actually be the final results it may not have been separated we don't know how long that process is going to take for now then we'll focus on Yan Hawaii because he's really getting into them the business end of this roof pumps up there to the second volcano will talk more about time in a second Yayoi is absolutely flying up this route taken in two minutes and he's established on the boulder problem the headwall have an orchid clip there the quick draw just hanging down by his left knee that's him up to 45 and he will not progress further but that's a good performance in yan hoya did waste any time getting up there by my maths that'll have him in sixth place I think that would be enough for a place in the final of course yet to be decided yeah that was yeah nan 45 do you think you'll be awarded that by the judges and yeah sorry oh yeah yeah and I think just being told it's pretty time eight well there must be quite a few plus tree climbers in the nervously waiting category very few of them will be confident that they have already done enough you favor can one of them Alberto he knows Lopez probably one of them sand your Coleman again will be reasonably happy you feel panic or haven't even Clyde but more or less whatever you can get will be a good result [Music] doesn't really matter for you okay pannies going to qualify for the final but for everyone else is getting pretty tense and as I say right at the top two people that needed a massive results Stefano ghisolfi and Alberto heinous Lopez are so close on time that they can't be separated IFS the officials are going to have to watch a video to separate them that could then have knock-on effects for other people score every time with these combined competitions we seem to get some massive drama right at the end you fade pan one of the few climbers that doesn't have much drama to worry about if he only needs to get to the third quick draw and he will already be ahead of Manuel cornu yeah he's one of the few climbers without much stress here first in the bowl the seventh in the speed gave him it combines in points total of seven and even if you multiply that by whether it'll now be twenty-one uses a head of corn ooh that's still uncomfortably enough to make it through the final vote so you vape and we're currently watching on the screen as I say about the only climb on one one of a very small number of climbers who will not be pretty stressed right now and the stress sadly for those experiencing it is unlikely to end when the last climate Adam Andra has been out because there is so little separating Alberto he knows Lopez and Stefano ghisolfi currently in joint first and they get will effect could affect what other people get so we shall see as ever in a combined competition all seems to culminate rather quickly [Music] I just so let me know by the way if they can't be separated if they really did to the nearest tenth of a second getting the same time on the roof Alberto and Stefano they would both get 1.5 so they would both be in joint first place they get 1.5 as their score to be the way then things get tense right at the end there's always some confusion you might remember how Gog we had technical Appeals about people standing on bolts and Olympic places worth riding on it as I say the man we watching right now one of or maybe two maybe three climbers who won't be stressed about all this right now it's just been a dream day for Team China it just couldn't have gotten any better for you fake pounding his happy one-seventh and the speed scarcely believe he got first in the boulder what can he do here on the lead wall the Chinese team have been talking about for so long and at times he's flattered to the scene he's come close to big results and picked up a podium and then disappeared again somewhat but if this was all part of a plan they got it absolutely perfect because he's peaked and exactly the right moment [Music] [Applause] [Music] and just fell at the top of the bowl the problem is a strong performance from him Domingo is immoral that's nothing riding on it in terms of qualification for the final eight but her hoof eight pounds still put in a massive performance and it was just around that whole 45 let's see whether we think he controlled it will he be awarded it by the judges oh yeah but you'll get 45 for that but gives me a 45 plus it was no attempt at the next move so almost certainly a 45 for you Fay pound will move him up into sixth place by the time they remain the two climbers have come that might end up being eight so the worst he can end up with today is a first a seventh and an eighth that is a fantastic day it's pretty unlikely that he's not going to finish the day the first so I'm not prepared to do the math right kakora fuji the Ernie the next climb is still to come and then it would just be a de Mond with a small matter of Adam andra world champion in lead season champion from the lead world cups Adam Andra that Adam Andra will be the last climb around [Applause] so Kokoro work comes out now yeah you Fae pan as it stands seventh-inning speed first in Boulder and six and lead as I say even if that ends up it is eight which it might well do after kokoro and adam of life either way he's into the final cora food you mean well you have been too far behind you fate pan out all he was eight to the speed of fourth in the folder so he's looking pretty happy just so you know as the drama begins to unfold as we try in real time to understand numbers that are constantly changing and evolving and being appealed against and being studied on video replays by the judges but as it stands right now Stefano ghisolfi 21st in the speed 16th of the boulder now if you can get a 1 next to his name in the lead it's a big if of course it still got Korra to finish his attempt stalker Adam Andrews to come so even if he is judged to have climbed quicker than Alberto heinous Lopez there's no guarantee Stefano would get a 1 next to his name but if he did I think that would leave him in the top a and if he doesn't have a 1 next to his name he is not in the top a so there are other factors but everything could be riding on whether he was a tenth of a second quicker on the lead route and how better he knows Lopez [Music] Koro the bottom of the Traverse outright had a really really strong day just have to see where this attempt leaves him terms of ranking points what a demonic until the war but as I say for Stefano ghisolfi if kokoro fuji cannot find the top here if Adam Andhra cannot find a top stefanos place in the final and very likely his participation in the Olympics could come down to whether he or Alberto he knows Lopez were a tenth of a second quicker on one lead route here in the South of France at the end of an eight-month season for the IFS see it is quite breathtaking how often it goes right down to the wire every one of these combined competitions we've had has ended in high drama at the end of the qualification days let alone at the end of the final days this one would appear to be no different if you are just tuning in welcome to Toulouse we are just north of the Pyrenees Mountains the Olympic selection event Charlie Bosco here watching on in a very tense climbing role here in this beautiful Pyrenean City it is tension all round there's a cluster of climbers over by the foot of the wall can barely look the ranking of one person can affect the ranking of everyone else so until Adam andhis finished on the wall nobody knows what their scores are the judge is still looking at our bear so he knows Lopez and Stefano ghisolfi they might not even know when Adam Andre is finished Kokoro Fujinami to fight man he was just heading up towards hole 42 judges sir I don't think we'll award it to him 41 plus I think would he could he claim he ever had control over the whole 42 let's have another look at it it's the hole he goes up to with the right hand here that little one above and right on his left hand always looks a bit different in slow motion in slow motion you look like he hit possibly had control of it anyway he'd be a judge and it'll be a 41 plus or a 42 for kakora fuji 41 for us yeah as I said slow-motion it looked like air control of him at the judging the judgement is made in real time in real time have control so the final climate out the last section of the day is out of Andhra he is unbeaten in a league competition this year he won all three league World Cups he entered he won the lead world championship and he won the European Utley championship you could argue that this route is more important than any of them because this could potentially send him to the Olympics Adam Andrews 14th in the speed he was second in the boulder doesn't need a top here in fact he doesn't need to be anywhere near the top yeah even if it was a 21st Adam Andra which is potentially going to confirm he's not 21st pretty soon Alfie Mohammed ended a foothold 19 which Adam has actually reached just yet but even if he said 21st for Adam so he needs to need to get a little bit further up but not too much further so he doesn't need a massive result here Adam just finished middle of the pack and that'll be enough but this is Adam Andra we're talking about just so you know in 19th I mean it sounds ridiculous to talk about Adam under coming 19th and early competition but foot slips happen things do happen nothing guaranteed 25-plus was bottom RM score so adam has moved ahead of Bassam RM that means he's going to be at least 19 on fight this suburb of Toulouse being us to get behind Adam Andre reads it absolutely perfectly he does climb quickly Adam Sophie tops the route you'd imagine he'd be in first place but we need to keep an eye on the clock still Alberto he knows Lopez and Stefano ghisolfi not separated Adam I think has booked his place in the final he's almost certainly bugged his place in the Olympics Stefano ghisolfi I think has just moved out of the top eight as it stands remember we want the top eight of the final here in Toulouse bit silly the top six who go through to the Olympics but because of the two climbers per country rule it might be that everyone in the final who is not Japanese makes it to the Olympics we'll see first things first kademan Adam Andray Blatche this move he'll go almost certainly with his left hand he can latch the move and he's going to get the quick-draw clip without even touching the top hold stop the clock at 252 and I think Adam andrew is a quickest of the three climbers too far the four climb is to find a tough but will wait for the judges to confirm if we've learned anything in the last hour it's to not assume anything they still haven't figured out whether Alberto he knows Lopez was quicker than Stefano ghisolfi [Applause] [Music] so let's just check as the results come through yes Adam Andra was the quickest he moves into first place and that means that he finishes today's qualifying in first place as well so these negotiations underway I'll be with you just a second [Music] well there we can see it as it stands once again one of the I FSC officials just been over to talk to me Adam Andra is in the top adam on defines a top scuse me Adam Andre is through to the final live then Stefano ghisolfi are better he knows Lopez cannot be separated just yet we currently in joint second Sascha layman also found the top he'll definitely be in fourth he was the slowest of the four to find a top and then Sean Bailey yellow flow you fade Pantheon Hoyer will boating on the lake sheet rubs off the remainder of the top ten on the league wall now this couldn't be much more tense because as it stands please please bear in mind the first part of that sentence as it stands may tree mare of sake and kakora Fuji to Japanese climbers would be in the final Japan have already filmed their Olympic quota which means that everybody else in the final who is not Japanese would receive an Olympic in the invitation is how it stands right now as I see as it stands as it stands Adam Andrei UFA path Alberto heinous Lopez Yan Hoya Bassam RM kakora Fuji Nathanael Coleman and Machin era sake will be in the final and all of those climbers with the exception of Kokoro Fujinami genera sake so Adam Andre you fee patent Alberta Hina slope is Yan Hoya faster male women and thus annual : those six climbers will be going to the Olympics as it stands however things could change Alberto Hina's Lopez score could change and Stefano ghisolfi who's currently showing up in 12th place could also change actually deaf Anna my my room by my calculations Stefano ghisolfi can't make it into the top mate because look at their his lead rank is currently showing up as to it might end up being 3 so things could only get worse Stefano rank can't get better so by my rank my reckoning he is missed out on the final 8 and therefore a place in the Olympics Alberto he knows Lopez meanwhile currently has a 2 next to his name that could end up being a 3 if he does end up with a three next his name that would give him 363 and I think he'd still be in anyway so he'd still make it through to the final Machin era sake would still be an eighth that would still mean there were two Japanese climbers at the final it would still mean that everybody who makes a final and isn't Japanese would go to an Olympic team but appeals are ongoing and I've been told that the IOC officials require some of our footage in the livestream which means we have to end the livestream sadly without a decision on Alberto and Stefano because they require our broadcast truck to study some of the footage but as I say by my reckoning as it stands Alberto vena's Lopez is into the final regardless of what the judges conclude Stefano ghisolfi is not in the final regardless of what the judges conclude and everybody in the final who is not Japanese please do check the I FSC website and social media channels to find out more and to stay up to date and find out what the judges decide but that's all for me today we will be back tomorrow morning if we could hold somehow some of the emotional energy for the women's qualifies let's hope for everybody's heart rate things go a little bit smoother what a day here to lose [Music] [Music] you you

Channel: International Federation of Sport Climbing

Views: 146,010

Rating: 4.9183674 out of 5

Keywords: Sport, climbing, ifsc, 2019, live, streaming, replay, rock, competition, champions, combined, olympic, qualifications, france, toulouse, tournefeuille, qualifiers, men, lead

Id: LbrXQ0rugJo

Length: 128min 7sec (7687 seconds)

Published: Thu Nov 28 2019