2019 IFSC Europe Climbing Championships - Lead Finals

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[Music] [Music] good afternoon and welcome back to Scotland we are live here in the Edinburgh arena for the European Championship lead final as you can see we've got the competition wall it's just behind us it has been reset we have the women's final and the men's final women on the left and men on the right yeah what what a final we are in for Adam Andra he's definitely on Form at the moment I do hope so we've got a lot of athletes to talk about we do have the regulation eight men and eight women who are gonna be going battling out really going through into the final and battling out for that European Championship gold medal and I certainly think it is hopefully it will be a very exciting event today let's take a quick look at this VT and Leah crane is going to explain how it all works lead climbing evolves climber is climbing up a minimum height to the 12 meter wall clipping themselves in as they go the competitors will be divided into two groups and there'll be two routes to climb every competitor will climb both routes they'll already be tied in when they come out for their forty second observation where the climbers don't have to use all of this time each competitor has six minutes to complete their routes if they get there faster it will only work to their advantage is if there's a catback whoever got there faster or win now for you guys at home all you need to look out for is who gets higher up the wall if it starts to get close keep your eyes on the scoreboard but Gaza Mike should be able to help you out with any appeals that been made or any judges decisions that aren't quite clear well thanks very much to Leah for that one well we've known Leah for a very long time haven't we she's been competing that's a very high level and now she's actually working for GB climbing and working with the coaching and training of the GB team but it's not long since leah actually did perform well on the international circuit she was placed 9th at Marion in 2018 that's not very long ago but it's great that she's moved into the coaching side do you see that quite a lot nowadays some of the really good athletes pushing into the coaching and then feeding down to other athletes and somebody who no doubt she's led plenty of information in the past - is chimp open he was really kind of from the GB climbing perspective he was one of the big stories today and you know we know gym really well and you've climbed with him a lot well we both have I mean we were using him as a tester when he was about this high he was that it was the ultimate tester really because he'd find all the most weird solutions to our border problems but Jim really has gone on from strength to strength and just continues to improve and obviously what we saw on the wall this morning with his performance it was I think the best I've ever seen him climb he just fought and fought and battled and that just goes to show what trying hard really gets you it gets you a place in this final this afternoon yeah we really was awesome to watch but there's a lot of talk at the moment 2019 of course about the Olympics and Adam Andra was the big story really from the World Championships failing to get that Olympics election that ticket to Tokyo 2020 but last week in Korean he won there he is the lead world championship and he's leading the field here going in to this tonight's final well it certainly was a very decisive win for him in cranny was streets ahead of the field and although he didn't win qualification he took the top place in the semi final this morning and and definitely does look on Form I think the qualification slip that he had and a little slip in the semi-final I mean we've actually got a lot more to come from Adam hopefully he'll be able to show his absolute best in this final cuz the finals do look fantastic yeah well sticking with the Olympic theme Laur Agora youth world champion she was absolutely awesome at the Arco championship said like a month or so ago and she's got through to the finals here I think it's fifth place that she's going through so she'll be out quite early tonight but again somebody who's looking to really start to dominate that combined field and has potential for an Olympic ticket okay and I mean she's still very young it feels like she's been around forever she's climbed a lot of hard roots in the in the last 365 days quite a few 9s and stuff so she she's still improving and she still has a lot to give like I say she's still very young yeah well we've talked a lot about the Olympics already let's hear from Leah and she's gonna give us a bit of a lowdown on how it's actually gonna work climbing is one of the new sports for Tokyo 2020 alongside surfing skateboarding and crafting the Olympic format will be a combined one and it will start with speed move into bouldering and then on to leave the scoring your work by taking each competitors individual ranking and speed folder and lead and timesing them together there's 20 competitors and the qualifiers and eights will get through to the final with only 20 spaces for qualifiers it means the athletes have to be selected from one of the selection events one selection event has already passed and that was in Hachioji in Tokyo earlier this year seven athletes have officially qualified from that event and they will not be allowed to take part in the second selection event which is in Toulouse France in November this year the last and final chance to qualify or Whitley continental championships next year in which the winner will go through there are two more spaces one is an IOC wild-card spot and the second is Japan's host nation spot so to recap that seven from hachioji six from toulouse five from the continental championships one IOC wildcard place and one Japanese host nation place this event isn't an Olympic selection event however there are athletes here who will be competing in Toulouse in November and we're super excited to see how they get on hopefully that gives you guys at home a slightly better idea of what's involved for the Tokyo 2020 games and obviously how to get there focusing on some of the athletes who are interested in the Olympics but also here today I think the big story really here as seemingly a lot of events is the Slovenians three Slovenian females doing really well today Mena markavitch great see her back Mia cramp or Undertaker akka yeah I mean it's been it's been very impressive and obviously we've not got young a gambit here she's probably taking a little break and a little rest I'm sure she needs it I've eaten Lucan who was who's been putting in some very good performances out with injury so she's going to get that sorted and then I'm sure she'll be back and strong back and strong next year but the depth of talent in the Slovenian women is just absolutely phenomenal and they just keep going strength to strength yeah we gonna be seeing Meena and Luka actually in this finals tonight so let's hear we managed to grab a couple of words from Luca earlier so let's hear from her now I've been climbing for ten years my club mostly climb inside because of trainings and competition but I really like her rock climbing too so I'm really excited to climbing the despite today's finals the semi-final route was nice maybe a little old fashioned but yeah it was a nice route and I'm really excited to climb later I have high hopes because of my previous results in this season so I hope I will be able to climb my best moving on from the survelliance focusing on the German men Yannick flowy and Yan Hoya to athletes who let's keep talking about Olympics they want to go let's be honest but they struggled here today yeah they definitely did I mean Yannick was 16th and highway was 23rd and I really thought that I was going to do really well on that semi final because it was physically quite hard it was bouldering very low you had to be a little bit more precise on the volume and locate that thumb with the right-hander to make that move relatively easy yeah it was all around that hold 1516 quite a lot of climbers who saw dropping right right color at the bottom third of the war yeah for sure and I think both those guys will be a little bit disappointed with their performance this weekend and they'll be looking to up the game at the next opportunity yeah well somebody who breezed through hold 1516 was Jim Polk and we caught well of him so let's hear from him now so I've been lead climbing probably for eight years now started climbing regularly when I was around nine and then got into comp climbing around 11 years old and then been kind of competing in lead competitions since then yeah I've try to keep a good balance between the indoor climbing and outdoor climbing I think the two go together pretty well and I think if I'd just trained or just climbed outside I'd probably get sick of each one so yes nice nice balance so the last week have been feeling a little bit under the weather and yesterday it was the first time I climbed in a while I felt a little bit rusty so it was nice today that it kind of all came together and I felt like I could climb my kind of how I'd like to claim and yeah really really psyched to make my first senior international final so here see how it goes later on I think because it's the first time I've been in finals before I don't really have any major expectations and just like to climb high get pumped and yet do as well as I can hear from Jim like his head first senior finals they're not the only one as well few of the other athletes here we're gonna get all into who done what and where they are in this tonight's final very soon but we want to have a look at the roots now and this is what it's all about the European Championship final route so let's turn to the wall get away from Gaza nigh and start to focus on a bit of the climbing let's have a look at the wall itself you can see that's just behind us there men on the right and women on the left guys you've been talking to a the route set as a fair bit you're just gonna nip off and grab one of them whilst I I'm just gonna I'm gonna nip off and grab the chief actually I get the chief he's sitting over there he's not watching us he's on his phone he's texting his mates or whatever he's doing but you can see just on the wall there this is a slow pan up the men's route the wall here it's very long indeed it's just over 15 meters and the actual climb itself is a throughout this weekend really the route setters are put in really kind of really classic moves and yeah we're just pretty much ready here to hear from the chief route so they're they're coming straight down from the war they're pretty sweaty but they've come and join us in the booth well I've got Remy joining me at this moment in time and I just need to on plug something that's it and Remy welcome into the booth thank you thank you so you're the chief this weekend what what sort of thought process do you start the setting with yeah so we start stretching one weeks ago last Sunday and the process is to prepare first the the last route I mean the final route because we are more fresh and also this is the route that we need more time to two of the the good adjustments okay I start by the final with your final sorry so we're actually looking at the final on the wall at the moment the men's final is on the right-hand side and their women's final is on the left-hand side if you do you come with some ideas of some movements or some challenges that you want to set them for the final so we we are knows ID before starting sitting we just took time at the beginning with the rest of the team depending of the the hold and the volume we had for this setting for this competition so the the idea the the game what we will propor the risky move and everything for the show we decided that all together at the beginning of the city okay and so there's some risky moves in this final exactly we choose the two of one 904 men and when Dino also for the girls on the same hire in the in the route so it just before the half of the route and that's quite symmetric so the men will jump on the left and the women on the right so it's a little risky and they will have to be introduced and focus on the holes to go to go in this move but I think it would be a very nice move like like we can now see most of the time in border ok yeah I spin it's a really interesting conversation in the climbing world about this new style of dynamic movements and obviously a lot of large holes this weekend we've seen a little bit of a combo we've had some dynamic movements but a lot of very basic crimping hard on hard routes we've not had too many tops which is some people would say that's a negative and some people say that's a good thing because the climbers are having to really climb at their limit is that something again that you've thought about a little bit going into this event yeah we try to find the balance because we also like to have some talks and we took this risk for the final because we screw the roots easier than it was supposed to be at the beginning so we will see but we we really play now to have one toxin in each final but we also need to keep the intensity in the qualification in the semi-final to have the best climber in final first and also to push the climber we have we are lucky to have from triangle like and a mantra of very strong climber and they also need to be challenging in competition not coming and and and topped all the routes easier so that's why also we push a little but it will be a little more cooler style for the finals and I think the intensity is a little lower so it's a long time since we were side-by-side in competition I think 2005 in Birmingham you took a silver medal in the ball the World Cup you were beaten by a gentleman called mark croc so with some amazing climbing on his part and I was in the same final I was in 6th place in that final good memories from that period yeah it's my best memory in my life in competition I remember this competition it was now 15 years ago but I remember like it was yesterday with other good British team you had at this time was Andrew with you with Mark and Mark did amazing final and at the end six bulldog was just I think 18 or 19 one attempt difference so it was big suspense to the end and it's my best memory of my life in competition well that's really nice to hear and well thanks very much for joining us in the commentary booth we're going to take a look at the climates that are now out on the mat and they are starting the route reading so we're gonna have a look at those and we're gonna chat through those with Michael thanks very much for joining us thank you very much thank you very good right so now we have everyone introduced and they are all out on the mat and they are starting their route preview yeah if you know your climbers if you would have seen obviously out there women first loose daddy Jesse pills lucha karate which allow a rock or a Tina Johnson have says just a column from tavini Amina Markovic great seer back than an AK Verhoeven they're the eight women who are currently previewing they really they have deregulation six minutes to go through the route in the men's competition you ever seen Martin Berg and Jim poke Nimrod Marcus Luka potica Jakob Schubert Alberto Lopez Sacha layman and obviously Adam Andra who you can see in your shot there him and Jagger side working well together trying to decipher the route and it looks like they're working on a section quite high in the roof there is some complex climbing up there some spinning and some inversions so I am told so it's a hard section of the route to read from solo but thankfully unlike some arena's they've actually got quite a bit of room to maneuver around they've got to they are restricted to the the mat and within the fence but yeah they have are working hard to work out the sequence you can probably see where these two dynamic moves are the first one is above the black barrel on the the men's side and the women's want is around the same level up of a green horizontal edge on the left side so keep your eyes open or when we see that section of the wall was fascinating to watch the different nationalities working together some on their own some apart so they're three civilians in the women's competition that's a cannon with the legend Mina markavitch and looker as well there you can actually see the women's ruin for hopefully now as we just pan up through this sort of green green and orange roots with a little bit of that color combination earlier I saying just as we turn this lip now as the camera pans up a little bit more you can see a horizontal volume coming into view just then the top of the screen that is where they will need to make a clip and they are not allowed to progress past that point unless they've made that quick draw and the quick draw is marked with an X and there is a hold marked also with an X where you have to make that clip from then you'll see from there they have to take a rather dynamic movement out right words to the large orange hole screwed on the green volume and at the same height the men's jump is on the right hand side it's just out of picture but you can see the lowest volume on the right-hand side that is the jug that the men will be jumping for as well so twin jumps in the middle of the wall followed by some much simpler basic climbing up that continuing overhanging section well before we get to the steep roof above and the real complexities start to hit the climbers up there when you get in that overhanging territory you can see right at the top of the wall there's a climate against cancer logo just in the middle of the wall that doesn't feature an either of the roots far as we're aware it's just there for just to show off that amazing charity you can see Sasha Lehman Yacouba and Adam Andra all working together to try and figure this men's right there on the right-hand side of the wall as guys said earlier mostly on the blue holds and black volumes they were on the other side of the wall earlier so their roots I just switched them around on the angles Burton it's Lopez just walking to the camera they're quite an interesting shot there of Sasha and Jakob and Andre you'd really do see the variation in the heights of some of the climbers that are in this final Andra tends to tower above most climbers Ashley the smallest out of that trio interesting and line up a little bit here guess it's the observation the six-minute observation continues there's a for climbers out there who are in their first big senior final so it's for kind of young guns versus a bunch of legends old guards holding back from calling them old but there we are yeah Nomura Markus Jim Pope Lucca potica and Martin bergen's see most of those in the shot there yeah they're all fresh faces for an ifs a senior-level final and you never know with it with the fresh faces what could happen is I think that's when you get to a finals like this and you've never been there before you're just so psyched to be there and I think you just go all out and there's no real pressure compared to the likes of Sascha layman Adam Andra Jakob Schubert arguably Alberto in as Lopez as well it's yeah it's it's it's going to be a really interesting element off there over the final two really it's gonna be good one this one potentially yeah exactly like you say anything that can happen in there especially when there is a jump involved so yeah it's quite easy to fluff that jump but I am actually joined in the studio now by Roman the garage I'm just gonna pass him the microphone hey there how are you doing that competition yeah it's I mean this still quite a strong field here with with the likes of Adam Andra and the rest of people in the final there's some very strong climbers around so it's not the easiest thing to get into a final here Sasha and Jacob everything is possible that's just what me and Michael was saying in the minutes ago because there's four finalists that have never been in senior final before so yes anything is possible how did you find the conditions the temperature of the competition in the qualifier we know that for the same for everybody so we know when we come in in the ball it's with with other things and what so what's next for you after we have one week of frets to go home and after there is two two more World Cup there is China and Japan and after holidays I don't know yet but somewhere with resting exactly resting okay well thanks very much for joining us and good luck good luck in the next two competitions thank you thanks very much to Roman for taking a little bit of time out for a quick chat yeah good to hear from him as always a total legend of the game the observation period has finished now and - let's have a look at the start this to see where the competitors are and that top eight that's the men's fielder we have been reliably informed that the men that be going first I'm Martin Bergen will be out first followed by Jim Pope definitely the crowd will be up on their feet for him Nimrod Marcus was superb in the semi finals great to see him featuring in this final that again none of those climbers along with Luca who's on the first major events that they've featured in at this level yak of Schubert our birthday is Lopes Sasha Laban and Adam Andre will be one of the Adam under has definitely been the standout athlete all the way through the qualifiers really Sasha has been right up there as well but he was the best athlete in the semi finals as the women's list though the eight loose to our DS gonna be out early super young athlete so talented and Jesse pills looked Careca vich they've both climbers there who featured in finals recently so interesting to see really early on if a high point could be certain it could be a hard bar to reach if Jesse goes really well along with Lucarelli she made the podium out in clan last weekend in Slovenia we mentioned Lauer Agora definitely one of those athletes who's going going all of a sudden going really well and pushing for those Olympic spots Tina Johnson app says had a huge battle in the semi final it proves of you if you don't let go you can keep carrying on basically she just had this almighty fire it was brilliant to see it has a cannon mean a Markovic and anak Verhoeven would be the final three out she topped the semi-final route if you had seen that or if not go back and watch it at some point but she had already turned out by that point movers certainly wasn't just gonna jump off unless she wanted to get to the top it's very it was a proper climbers experience I would say I'm here to climb to the top of the wall don't care about the time well it's certainly a very experienced a very mixed final we have some big experience coming in from Mina Markovic and a night for her banana back from injury and it does really seem that she is on Form at the moment and obviously we've got Jessica Piltz x world champion in there as well along with the young and up-and-coming climbers climbers do re from France is qualified in 8th place and she'll be the first out so it will be very very interesting to see how she can climb on this final route of the weekend hopefully she can up a game it would be nice to see her progress up that ranking a little bit well we've got a nice little crowd in there all wrapped up ready for some action where's your money sitting this afternoon Michael well I have said once before more than once before and I certainly said it already so don't do predictions anymore say that will we just do them anyway nothing to lose is it yeah and the embarrassment amongst our peers but there we are well we are underway now and we have the first climber out under the wall it's Martin burr Gant from Slovenia in his first senior final in lead yeah we start to get a bit of an idea of what the climbers got ahead of us there 23 year-old Martin big step up this year really top twenty four World Cups already in 2019 fifteenth in Quran and 29th the world championships out in Japan I think the last time I saw Martin was in Arco a couple of summers ago where is playing leather banjo with the beer in his hand the bando chips the beers and all of a sudden your results start coming pretty good straight into this first awkward section of gel texture volumes see the progress bar get to see that now that wasn't a feature during the semi-finals but it will be now as a live scorer in progress bar as well and once Martin either tops or falls off his score will remain on that progress bar and we will hopefully see climbers pushing past him unless he stays up there at the high point for quite some time which is definitely capable of according to Roman the garage though there's a few standout athletes with Andre Yakov Schubert about two and Sascha and the young pretenders are going to be out there just to try and give him some hustle yeah for sure they're the young guys and the new guy since is field they've got absolutely nothing to lose they just need to give it their all and who knows where they can end up with thee if you don't make any mistakes you know they can do very well as as Remy said they sounded like they toned down the final a tiny bit I did a few little chips here and there but I'm sure it will still be pretty challenging you know that Exodus by that left hand crib that's the compulsory or the final clipping position before heading out right so we can't go past that hull without clipping the corresponding quick draw with the X amongst it and that's because he goes down low and left now and start shuffling up this big barrel was a bit of a feature in the women's competition but there's only fun catchers on it for the men there isn't no side poles or crimps at all interesting choice from the roots edits it's a very big wall here and people have timed out in the past so you wonder if slow sections like that we're gonna use he's gonna have to really watch his pace slightly higher up in the room he's too got to get there first see the left leg really shaking under tension how bad that foothold is into a really creepy section now this is the first kind of big Hollywood section of this route then lining up right hand Gaston left hand undercut lines up this jump gets it down a big spin of the feet big rotation of the body but it didn't look too much now I'd say there was an element of doubt but it wasn't it was more heart in the mouth than desperately hanging on for dear life yeah that was a good solid execution of that jump but obviously hugely committing and it does play a big mental game regardless of the level of a jump like that if you're having to do it on a route on a rope in front of a big crowd here in Edinburgh at the European Championships it's definitely going to play on the mind but safely through there Martin taking the opportunity now to relax I think would say if there's a jump it looks super cool and it usually is pretty good to watch but it usually offers a pretty decent rest on the exit of the jump and this is what we're seeing here from Martin see you got a jump usually has to be - a big hold off of a big foot and he still has his right foot on a big legend just gonna chill out here just gonna be you have to be careful of time he has dropped under three minutes already and say he's just under halfway on the wall at the moment 20 looks like he's making his way now out left hand on the big toe hook cool move here big roll over and then this move coming up looks like a very hard release using his height there with the toe hawk that's the release into the shoulders after doing well here looking very strong at the moment certainly three pinches now to give you an idea where he is 32 33 on the route you can see the live scoring there it's around 49 moves on this route his hands a little bit of birthing really that came down to just how pumped he was no real big mistakes up there yeah I'm sure he'll be really happy with that like you said Mike he was tapping himself on the head as though he had made a mistake but yeah he's come down and he'll be smiling from that I think I'd be really pleased to have had the opportunity to compete in this final the first one and senior lead they can see on the tower on the right hand side the progress bar so Martin will stay there now orange indicates the current high point 34 plus have a look jump again there's the big swing it was a pretty big sort of helicopter jump in the end since you have to watch his left foot on that boat we don't want to go down that those sagas he's been thinking about this season we do know obviously hope to avoid that hear me Jim Pope out next we've talked a fair bit about him but try to remain impartial here amazing see one of your friends on the wall certainly it's a special one when you've been around Jim for as long as we have Michael I mean it's is absolutely fantastic they see him walking out in this European final I'm sure if it can fight as hard as he did in the semi-final you to wonder how much that semi-final to carry and we interviewed Adam Andra just at the end of his climb in the semi-final said absolutely roasted at the end of that so he tried really hard and Jim put in a huge battle in that semi-final but let's just hope he can do the same again here Martin Berger has put a pretty decent high high point up there were 34 plus so you know Jim's got a have to really pull one out the bag here if he wants to go past that hopefully he can just remain relaxed stay happy and just go out there and just kind of just crush as he as he wishes he could really nice piece of climbing just at the start of this through those very cool moon shaped volumes jewel textures you can see the blue side is with texture and the black side is with a highly polished surface which you're definitely not going to be able to stand on [Music] Jim just opting to clip from the lower hold there as he felt that one didn't feel it was too happy this is where he needs to clip this next bolt from x marks the spot for the clipping hold and for the clip that needs to be clipped and then now he will move out right onto this large barrel volume and compression section of climbing [Music] this is the sort of section that will really take it out of you caught up in his arm a little bit there but I don't think it faze him too much is glad but it's not really a problem I was just wondering if he's actually chosen to actually do to do that to keep the rope to stop it getting tangled in anything no lower down or to drag on the volume yes that right hand Gaston no it needs to get the clip and we'll line up for this big jump Martin Bergen got it done obviously and didn't look to trouble him too much but Jim's gonna have to give us pretty much everything this guy's one of the shorts climbers better watch the rope at the same time looking a little bit nervy hear the crowd sort of moving and honoring a little bit as Jim lines this one up now he's just trying to sort the rope fix it out where his left foot now just slips out of nowhere heartbreaker Jim he was really thinking a lot about the jump it's just his foot went out of nowhere just relax the foot a little bit lost his focus seemingly and just just went it was a big shame that for Jim makes me really annoyed with that it's just yeah exactly yeah you can see there was a lot of thought going into that movement from Jim while he was standing on that volume came back down to the lower crimp to chalk and then went for it and the foot slipped dynamic moves they're always a challenge you just have to throw yourself through them without dithering but just a left foot when he just sort of lifted the hill it's a pretty sloping volume that thinking you're just thinking so much about landing the jump jump itself how many times we said Jim Pope is falling off the jump unfortunate really mixed emotions about jumps at these competitions sometimes they can be great but they can be a real disappointment for a lot of the athletes as well I think the big part of that jump may be obviously the distance from that shoulder press and the foot hold the higher you are the you know the high you are on the shoulder the better the weight is going to go through that foot and Jim being a little bit shorter quite hard to keep the power through that thought as we saw and it's just a zipped after see from that graphic they're nimble of marks out next - you've got better bouldering results that he has in the lead so super for him to make the European lead finals won a couple of European youth cups already Marcus 19 years old found out the other day that his grandma lives in London it was good to know he was very happy to tell me I don't especially if you want to go around for a cup of tea yeah cup of tea with the Queen speaking of cups of tea we haven't talked about how cold it is in here yet gas that seems to be the British team just talk about how the weather non-stop it's yeah brutally cold here this weekend but that's wrong undergone for saying in that interview that the athletes they know they know what what it's like here they know the temperatures they know the game it's the same for everybody and the athletes seem to be dealing with it really well good shot looking down on that route there you can see how sloppy these holes are the route setters really mixing got the styles in the routes back onto some crimps now into this compression Boulder section coming up followed by a jump it's got absolutely everything in this route at the minute really throwing all the challenges to the climbers in brought using to go double clip there off that X marked crimp Jim just slightly different secrets for clipping there see how it gets on with the barrel it's obviously a little chip down there for the right hand a little tiny screw on before just using these thumb catches it's really bold a resection this and that's quite an intimidating position so low down on the wall but I go around a huge volume and you're absolutely miles to go toward the top of the world a bit of fridge hugging [Applause] it's out of the barrel would not too many problems the shipping you can just bring his right foot up and through obstacle left foot hi first this is into the jumping position now then the first real point of interest on the route let's see if he can get through this jump cleanly that looks a good position to make that clip from maintaining the toe flicks the left foot back believe me yeah that was very nicely done there by Nimrod opting for the the kick flick on to the on to the volume landing it lots of pressure through that foot and then quite comfortably onto that jug see the difference bit of confidence makes Jim look really unsure when he got there but Nimrod Marcus no hesitation at all just absolutely launched himself at it as soon as he got there no opportunity for a footstep just banging his left foot on and flew for it so with the first three climbers out at the moment Marcus has passed Jim's point and you can see on the right-hand side of the screen that he's heading for Martin Brigance high point [Applause] love 3d climbing on this one tow hooks heel hooks jumps looking a little bit unsure releasing this right toe at the moment it's gone full stretch all the sudden we're losing on that it just feel enough sudden it comes from being really comfortable in that rest put is right so around the back of that jeweled section Volland and that couldn't quite decide what are you wanting to do after that didn't get the early release that we saw from Massenburg and yeah well that does look like the method though that toe hook is is needed to maintain contact on the wall take it a bit higher up that volume it's lower down on the barre didn't have any issues around here and the jump because that confidence just planted the left foot right at the back of the volume by the wall itself see the big kick across the wall unfortunately only got a couple more moves out of the rest technical sequence is all over this route well maybe not quite what he wanted from that final but he's going to be happy having made it into European finals this weekend still sitting on the throne in first place yeah Capri climbers down yeah come Schubert is out next he's obviously not quite ready that's because it's not a cop super it's time the local MC is sandbagged everybody there Lucca potica it was obviously out next well Lucca another strong Slovenian it's only slipping into the Armstrong hmm we still see what Lucca does on this final Luca came one of those climbers making his first big senior finals appearance just 17 years old 13th last week in Karratha is obviously going pretty well at the moment Luca any you've first places to his name yeah it was a big field in cran so you know 13th place is very respectable from that event it's a favourite event with the competitors [Music] [Applause] if you have just joined this manga Gasparri here in the commentary position not too far away from the legal itself got a great view and this is the male half of the lead finals of the European Championships if you climb that's already gone women's competition will follow the conclusion and a Monday will be the last climber out this is interesting Luca posture trying to go up the groove initially there wonder if he's looking at that again there's a foothold down right it doesn't want it goes straight up the groovy potentially climb themself into a bit of a problem here this is a really big problem so I can't see how he's going to go out this is obviously thought that that ledge volume was a good for her hands now he's going to try and get across can I get across all the way to the right-hand side here could be an early fall and early upset here for Luca potica was pushing himself right into that groove you can see where he needs to be with the next holders it is an undercut so that's not gonna be any use to him it's gonna have to potentially just jump out and compress this volume from where he is always gonna have to climb all the way back down using a lot of power to guppy that volume at the top left corner they're still stuck on this left-hand side basic route reading error unfortunately here for Luca potica maybe that little bit of inexperience is showing now he manages to get the left flip that's better it might work for him can he somehow flick his hips and get the weight across to the right hand side of this volume he can't climb yourself into a dead-end and he's gonna kick himself for that is it for a bit a little bit angry with that one it was like he misread how good that next volume is the next blue and black moon shape volume obviously thought it was possible to hold it I think but as we have seen and he hasn't it is really only a foothold round of applause for Luca yeah it's a real shame that and shows how important the route reading is remember the climbers do have a 40 second period just before they pull on they can have another look at the route and you do wonder if a little bit of a step back and read with you just before he pulled on Martin's probably sitting there now wondering what is going on here he's still in first position yeah just four climbers still to come see it just off to the far left in your screen there under the giant TV that there mouthing Bergen sitting in the throne the winners fro actually about this time gets introduced and actually comes out if you wonder if that sort of false intro did just put off Luca POSCO a little bit before it came out but sure the climbers are pretty good at remembering when to come out and win not to Jakov Shubert pretty much needs no introduction the where'd you start with lack of 48 lead burners to his name 9 Boulder World Cup medals it's just that I mean the list just goes on and on and on for ya Cobb he's just always there and he's always on the podium a lot of times it's at the top he's an incredible athlete that's it he's not far off 200 international events I mean that is absolutely ridiculous and the guy is still climbing at the top of his game last year repeated in the undersell Christian was very famous 9 be the Adam Andra failed to repeat Jakob on the wall now let's see what he can make of this route don't forget yet I'll show you better ice qualified for the Olympics but his appetite to win is frankly insane he just wants to win every time he pulls on he's not here to make up the numbers in this final yak of true but he is here to win and he will go to war on this route a little bit quicker through this initial section pops4 a right toe down rather than a hill just pasting the right foot couple of the hills have been slipping here this weekend we've kind of cold humid conditions drops out right foot back down again looks like he's definitely going low it's pretty comfortable at the moment on these first clips of this route now he's into this quick compression section I think it's quite crucial to move through here as fast as possible because it can really take some energy out of you swiftly through that section just a quick thing thinking about the clip yes if you just go for the clip it's really sketchy position off such a bad really stretch there take a bit of power that it was quite slow that clip to happen see you happy getting out of this position just go get that palm down bring up the feet you can see where the bronze medal currently position is that's Jim Pope with the little bronze line there fair way to go through past martin martin burger and then let's just concentrate on this jump now Jakov Schubert's got to get this sorted just skittering the free a little bit just trying to make a decision really knowing with a rope running right over I need the slips I don't know where yakov Schubert slippers even worse than Jim Pope's absolute heartbreak of this jump is really causing upset here that's a real shame for the Austrian fans and all of the fans of Yakov Chiba he was just lining out and again the Rope just running right over the middle of that volume it's pretty annoying it has to be said and we've seen it twice both climbers that have been quite indecisive about what we're going to do for that job of both yet rather than just committing to it almost instantly like a fever knowing he'll be back to fight another day of course but let's have another look this is through the lower section on the barrel he had no real issues just to set up into this job maybe we can see the roof over John there it is you can see the rope just under his left Hill which foot was it was this right fries nothing's doing the rope in the end it was heaven trying to set his feet and there is I mean maybe it's just really skiddy out there with these humans conditions big upset they're Jakov Shubert he certainly won't be winning the competition here he's down in for at the moment now berth so in his Lopez from Spain the absolute warrior of the 2019 men's field is put on some great performances this year only two climbers left after him let's see what he can make of this route yeah this young gentleman is an absolute battler every single competition we've seen him in he puts in such a good fight and he just keeps on truckin wobbles wobbles wobbles and then he stays on so he's not one of the tallest competitors though he's a lot shorter than Jakob so we'll see how he gets on with the jump that is to come but before he arrives there he still got quite a lot of climbing to do such a talented young climber this gentleman has definitely got a long way to go in the world of competition climbing he was on the podium last weekend the Quran in the third position see what he can make of this route we really don't want it to come down to this jump nothing was you know other guys go past it already [Music] just trying to shuffle his hand a little bit there is a crimp on the side of that volume really bad one then it's just fraud and catch like I said earlier so she's trying to get his hands to work efficiently as possible around the bottom section of that barrel it's definitely a nice bit of Route setting that just gonna get the climbers to do something a bit different just wrapping that volume so pushing up into the Nervii jump then this is where we lost doing probe and Yakov Schubert and see what he makes of this next move and he set the feet and he go with confidence as a quick look straightaway sets the right foot quite hard to watch now this jump part in your mouth moment really lines you up has a quick look or false start rips off the lefthand undercut somehow saves it goes into battle mode here easily gets it down second time crowd really impressed with that a little slip but then regain composure and nailed the jump that was a huge amount there it just as he went for it first on his left hand rip Tony had his right hand on just managed to quickly reel it back in if you look closely at the top left hand column of that volume there is actually a small red logo on it that I'm pretty sure will not have any friction on it you go to be really careful cuz that is in the area of where the feet are going but for now Lopez is continuing up this this is very lost final Nimrod Marcus and let's see what our Bertha does does commit to the big jump into the shoulder the left hand so good may follow root cellars now pushing into this next set of pinches you can see on the progress bar the right hand side how close he is to Martin Berggren there he is in the winner's chair at the moment will he be dethroned Alberto's looking really solid here still now he pushes in Howell 34 he will be sitting in the chair after this climb big lock off of the right clicking ahead back hour 14 as Lopez is in battle mode now after a section of blocked crimps now first climber into this next section then you can see they're really steep roof section beckons just above him as I was saying as he set up on this route this guy this young Desmond is an absolute fighter and he's certainly digging deep yet again here as he approaches the roof and this next complex section of climbing [Applause] he says as he fell off area looking pretty pumped after he said it wasn't like he just couldn't find what to do there is definitely a huge pop in the cheeks as he crawls off our portunus Lopez camera 38 plus and looks like it needs a stretcher to go out here never left wondering with Alberto where where does he get that from every time he pulls onto the Olli it gives it absolutely everything puts the he's heart into it everything into it comes down he looks totally broken it's amazing to see time and time again he really tries his best shuffling just to get this nice and neat through this lower section it seemed to take too much out of him it really came after the jump that's where the route really seems to be kicking in with two climbers less then not seem much at the very top of this wall yet but it's such lamenting Adam andris still to come this is a nice little jump into the shoulder big release out to hook a spectacular final route this one's self Elena now jobs into the arena this is where all went wrong unfortunately for our Berto just struggling with the sequencing a little bit through there but a which point really I don't think had much left in the forearms obviously Alberto's performance then just bumps Martin began down into provisional second place at the moment we have two more climbers social Damon just approaching the wall and then the leader from the semi-final almost the king of climbing who want to another word Alejandra still to come all eyes on Sascha now though [Music] shafilea are a real opportunity on his hands here just one climber still to come with a low percentage move with that John Stafford height on the wall is easy for anybody to make mistake including madam Andra so if Sasha can get through there and push that high point past Alberta in his Lopez's bring definitely an opportunity for him we found the 19 World Cup win are already here Sasha Eli was in Switzerland its home country sure that was a pretty spectacular after-party at the end of that one well yeah he knows you can do it we know he can do it it all comes down to the day though second-placed highs qualifier as he moves into this quite quite cheeky compression section here oh yeah hiding a little bit initial transfer onto the barrel looks quite hard you can see that little red logo now just above his left elbow under his right elbow now that certainly will be no texture you got to be careful with punting the right foot I think for that nice little clip in position using the full right arm just now barring across the top of the volume in that right side work yeah I think that's possibly the best place to clip from cuz as soon as you get onto the crimps you want to be lining yourself up for the jumper rather than stopping and clipping composition now he's pushing up into this job and let's see how such Elena gets on with it tough for the cheeks kicks alright left foot back our dance across are possibly the easiest of all the athletes are seeing get through that job so if I could see really separate rather than full confidence just kick that rock back left foot back and just fired it off yeah that was very steady from Sascha they're very confident and that's what jumps are all about you have to give it 100% commitment any dithering any thinking about it and you will probably make a mistake no it's not quite a good hold now so opportunity to take a little rest this is probably about the same time as Martin began to arrived at this hold Martin rested until just under three minutes left on the clock that just seems to be on the same plan yeah these guys were arriving at this jogo after the jump actually pretty tired so we I think we'll see people really making the most of the rest rather than worrying about how much time they got left on the clock really it so it's a balance but I think they'll prefer the rest over the time period remaining they move up here just just trying to search for that right so hurt they make of this Pictou hope release move the shorter guys here sasha is going to push quite hard up to this next cast on full stretch to the moment and jumped into their and ice the Donald and supercool move that one really high on ghost next pinch for the right hand looks comfortable on it and does get a nice little little cross through Matt that's a good effort to get through that section going with that hand he looks a little bit pumped now they're really struggling to make these moves even the strudel to make these clips double clips here one gonna be on the right hand blows off that pinch well that was a really good effort by sacha times himself into provisional second place I think there yeah second place you can just see it on the graphic on the right hand side 34 plus now it's a really good fight for him Sasha really good to see you did look pretty tired at the end that John was saying it just really seems to be making the most of that rest and push through that next section but it's definitely not to give that pretty much everything he had there so don't buy with that job because good jump is working well it's too a big hole but then suddenly even not got any feet Martin began is actually taller so he was able to step down onto the the lower blue volume and make a bit more of the rest whereas Sasha it was struggle day was standing on smears on the wall it's still powerful even if she big hold and then when he gets into this section that you can see on the replay he was really battling he's a little bit shorter from the tow hook sequence earlier on and this is the moment right hand just pops as his voice at next row he knows he feels he was a little bit robbed there he had some more to give Adam Andra now walks out into the arena make no mistakes he is here to win this competition who's been absolutely phenomenal all weekend was the best climber in the semi finals just got to remove his jacket there and had a mantra all go into fight mode unless he's gonna you might actually keep that jacket on no it does trying to decide I wanna get your zip stuck in front of that many people but Adam ons are looking really serious now he's gonna take this one 2019 lead world champion can he become the 2019 European champion Adam is absolutely the consummate professional with everything he does even in the interview so motivated to talk about climbing to talk about his experience of climbing and you can see the motivation and the focus on this man it was done it all before and yes this is the European Championships not a World Cup not the World Championships so we are missing a few athletes but Adam is still here to win this event no messing around let's see what Adam can do it's gotta be Alberto in his lopes he's 38 plus we will see progression of Andhra compared to our Berto on the bar on the right to that 38 plus it is actually quite a long way up that wall that barrel in the top section in the steepest part of the wall who's going to certain got a long way to go and still has to get through these two tricky sections here the compression volume followed by the jump [Music] nicely done double shuffle up the barrel there and I really smooth really confident Rhonda has had a few issues on jumps in the past though router almost goes completely silent as Andra prepares himself for this tricky little number across the wall in two climbers fall already one being Jakob Schubert let's see what Andra makes of it gotta watch that right foot lining it up now take a moment there in front row very solid through that and as we saw from Martin he's able to step back down with that right foot he's going to make that rest position a little bit better Adam is arrived at this point very very fast four minutes 13 on the clock so he's almost a minute ahead of some of the previous climbers that have arrived at this rest point you have to say compared to such layman just bringing that right foot down to stand on the nose of that volume has got to make a huge difference to the ability to rest there Sasha with having to pace both feet on the wall it's about to take weight completely off the arms like that is really advantageous for here for Adam Andra yeah and you can definitely imagine that Adam when he gets a good hold like this and a good foot position he is going to recover extremely well just really checking out that upper section whilst he's resting just building up the fury ready to launch into the mid section of this route [Music] he's definitely milking the rest as we would say here we go let's see how high Adam can go as opted for the heel hook with the right foot but being a little bit taller than some of the other climbers he can reach this next jib easier hard release still making the team relative that didn't need to jump into that shoulder now he rolls a crop into these pinches excuse me close to pushing past Sasha Lehman's second position point so now that black feature is slightly higher up that's where gold medal can be won or lost I don't want her looking pretty solid still here being the best climber through the semi-finals madam Andra now with Alberto he knows Lopez looking on can he take the gold medal away from it will Adam Andra be sitting in that chair still taking on chalk resting I don't wonder you're looking fresh still here happy on those two crimps takes that as a pinch on the left hand hold 38 is this one here that's the where the Middle's will be one a lot ana mandra 2019 world champion shuffling now 2019 european alejandra has done it once again was it ever in doubt but how high can he go now alejandra pushing all the way up it's a whole 40 through this really complex section of climbing in the roof close to 50 moves on this route and Aundre with an e bar is just chilling and arresting it's been an absolutely extraordinary performance once again from arguably the best climb in the world and a mantra now really fighting hurt finds another knee bar tucked in under the triangle yes he asked for the support once again he knows he's done what he needs to do I don't alter it just does it Simon time again he may not have qualified for the Olympics first time around but make no mistakes he is in superb Lieberman shape right now he's still resting really high up in the wall he has time as well 12 seconds remaining it's a really cryptic second section up here for Adam Andres got yourself in a bit of a tangle now but he's surely might have something left in the tank with the right hand the mega run wound it's a superb effort he ends up on qualified Plus Adam Andre your 2019 European champion 2019 a world champion does the double and Seafarer climb to Montreux well what an absolute amazing performance there all the competitors sitting on the sofa watching Lopez everybody was absolutely mesmerized by that performance and all giving him a round of applause lots of respect from the competitors and lots of respect from the people that have just witnessed Adam take the gold here in the Edinburgh in 2019 what a fantastic performance that was Michael yeah what a way to win the competition is really good really the route works out pretty pretty much nail on really there's a it's always a talking point about the jumps bones I proved once you get through that make the most of that rest and just powering through that head section the route or the hard route and that's absolutely fine yeah we didn't see a top I'd rather see climbers battling for gas like that than loads of people making loads of tricks and jump into the top there you can see the end results I had Amanda takes it 45 plus many moons above the rest of the competition in the end Alberto Ennis Lopez was superb takes away another podium the 38 class and Sacha layman with a 34 plus Martin per gap from Ingrid Marcus Jim Koch got Schubert all the way down in 7th position I think he's they're gonna be pretty annoyed walking away from this one yeah come Schubert but he'll be back to fight another day and it is high fives all around Alejandra takes another gold medal it's just saying there's always lots of chat in the community about how how hard the route should be should we have hard routes or should we see people all flapping near the top of the wall and there are a lot of people who go around the circuit say that it's all about having hard routes and really making the climbers work hard for it well I certainly think we've gone through this process of trying to aim for people to the top and that her resulted in a few count back decisions on those final standings and obviously in this situation they have set a route that is really challenging for the best climber on plastic in the world and has been the best climber on the plastic for quite a long time now Adam Andre he is the king of Edinburgh yet again what a great performance yeah I guess to sit in the throne yes superb scenes here in the men's final women's final will be coming very shortly so if you need to run off for a loo or get a quick cup of tea now's the time don't go anywhere though because we will be bringing you the women's final very very shortly it's the scene you can just about see the crowd way around the arena which is the most incredible arena here so ginormous for a climbing Center it's a quite a spectacular we're down in an old quarry if you've never been here yourself it's a quite unique facility see a lot of woolly hats and gloves and down jackets so it is it's indoors but it's a well seasoned also has a roof and that's about as good as it gets we're almost in winter especially in Scotland the fall it's always winter in Scotland it feels like it sometimes but yet like you say Michael this is an amazing arena and it's been the host two of many competitions in the past there's a great shot of Adam on the throne holding the climbers against cancer cushion if you are interested in donating to that cause then just type climbers against cancer into Google it will bring up the website and you can see how you can get involved and donate to a very worthy cause and that is see the cure of cancer throughout the world they will just have a flower sarah me then Sasha Laban gets announced second place our personas Lopez for podiums will becoming at the end of this competition allemande will take zipper also takes the win how many times we've said that matter how many times you win he just always just seemed to mean so much to him maybe wiping that smile off his face for a while it's a good good weekend's work for Adam Andre yeah certainly is and like you say Michael it's very hard to take a smile at him on his face the absolutely loves this sport regardless of what he's doing whether it's hard on citing on Brock red pointing on rock or whether it's climbing on plastic indoors he's an absolute legend and he's a very very diverse climate he showed that with these very fast ascents the Dom wall you know this is total all-rounder really has nothing he can't do really is he maybe want to do it he'll do it yeah I'll take him on in a snooker challenge one day cos if he's any good at that this thing better do anything you might be able to catch him unawares and win the first time but the second time you won't win yeah that's part is that's what's coming up next we start this for the women's competition loose to Rd is going to be out first and then Jesse pills who's come silver medal here before in Edinburgh LaRocca who we had a little chat with earlier you saw that in the pre-show now or Agora youth world champion will be out for Tina Johnson afters from Norway it's Jesse Allen from Slovenia followed by Mena Markovic and final climb out will be alacra joven so no rest for the wicked we are straight in to this woman's lead final here in Rafah the title for the woman's 2019 European champion is still up for grabs as we start with this final first climber out lucid Waddy from France very young but very talented climber just running through the moves quick refresh of the ravine session they had earlier 15 years old she has a long way to go in competition it's been doing well on the bouldering circuit this year as well absolute talent youth world champion as well for her category [Applause] [Music] first look at this women through the intersection of sort of spikes fiberglass spikes at the bottom of the wall it's kind of wrapping the hands around them unconventional grip tight really yeah to those of you that have seen those spikes before they are really really awkward to use warm um they're really good and then you crank it over by five degrees that they get absolutely terrible it's very cleanly through that section though just reaching the first angle change [Music] it's got a clip right behind the back of a head at the moment so it's gonna push up to this is just a ginormous ledge quite a none for unusual feature Russia turns and you said unfortunate feature we'll see if it becomes unfortunate so unusual feature to see on a lever a big ledge like that and it's there because of the moves that are slightly higher up and don't when you end up with jogging across the ledge potentially we will see that so wait until moose gets a little bit higher into this next section of triangles to see if she can get into the junta's mounts up onto the ledge now full mantle play certainly look for the interesting moon uber that the route set has it created here the smaller you are probably the better this position feels just bring so right so right to the edge of that volumes to give herself a maximum amount of space to stand up now just reached up into that next triangle compulsory final clipping position there the next side you can see it far right of the screen then big orange dug onto the green volume a couple of meters off to the side so loose is gonna have to just jump it from there unless you can find some other magic look so she's got a bit of a head bar rest their head and shoulder I mean like I said it's very unusual to see such a Ledge on a root and it's there to create that kind of slightly interesting mantle but then jumping off of the ledge this now with loose on this ledge looking across at that next jug must seem a very very long way away to someone like her and over foot Michael mentioned she is no slouch on the boulders and see his face currently with a very dynamic little broader problem she's just gonna try to get her weight as far right as possible doesn't like the right foot so much it's trying to put the pressure for it now now I was lining out just using that foothold a little bit somehow brings I left that up as well can she keep good contact on the field does launch is across really really calculated what you need to do there took a long pause of pretty nervy wait for us to see if she could get across a big smile enjoying that way when I'm doing the crowd [Applause] double Hills on the rest looks round for the clock two minutes 36 remaining happy in that position you've gone out of a one rest into another well that was really great to see the way she calculated that built up to it and then absolutely demolished that job it looked like it was going to be a bit of a challenge for at first when we saw her on the start of that we got no problem through there she now launches on to the upper section of the route into the second half now I would say that's the end of a fun climbing the real business now starts [Applause] Black's growing inside me they're going to fiberglass wild in there now I'm 32 already hold 33 section of all good cribs now [Applause] just looking all the difference hand sequence options here this fires up to that left and somehow sticks it moves really fast all of a sudden really knowledgeable crowd here straightaway they realize that she's putting a bit of an effort to get that left hand bunches up to hold 36 now big move again here hold it loose - Artie is going really well here superb performance let's see what she's got on to this really steep roof section now absolutely climbing out of a skin at the moment loose on this upper section there's still a lot of moves to go before she reaches the top this is an unbelievable performance here from loose - Rd of France feet first now trying to bring the hands inside the feet there's wrapping that bottom she still looks like she's pretty fresh got something left here lose to hoody and now she wraps that left hand all the way around that horrible foothold tries to put a feet back above her head right at the top of the wall here a bit of a tremor still to do out to the right just hanging what to do where to go really confused and then just recite well performer so that was absolutely brilliant what a start to this woman's final yeah thoroughly enjoyable just make sure she doesn't land in the judge's table at the bottom of the wall well I don't know who enjoyed got more but she has a really big smile on the face after that fight yeah there's about four moves off the top of the wall there I think the brute says why I've got nervous all of a sudden I'm always tricky when the first climber comes out and does so well gets right up to the top this is the move to the lower ledge before the jump bounding up on that volume then she took that big rest and just me the job the jump was really nice yeah [Music] top holds 47 on this one she's got 43 just four moves still to go [Applause] so say everybody in the arena really enjoyed that one superstar she gets to sit in the winner's throne for now such a superb effort she might be there for quite some time big smile laughing loose takes the chalk going off on the throne we've been swiftly on another total legend here jessica belts x world champion I'm sure she will be gunning for a few places higher than she was currently sitting in seventh place yeah this is going to be really interesting now because Lucy's gone four moves from the top Jessie pills is one of the favorites of this event she's coming out seventh in the final so she come out second yeah it's gonna be really interesting women hey being for some early tops here yeah that's an early prediction if there ever was one don't be too surprised that Jessie goes very high on this route because seventh place is not her usual ranking in these events so there's every possibility that we'll see something fairly explosive from Jessie she definitely got that job to contend with first though she's definitely had a really good bouldering season so you wouldn't call her too many issues it's a tricky tricky move though [Music] hopes to go up to that big pinch with her left hand and then we'll end up matching it [Music] [Music] Chesterfields easily up to this first ledge section actually gets on this mantle really interesting sequence this is much more more like what you'd see on the boulder wall to get on board this volume and then jump out of it just four left foot quite wide there SHM and we have to bring it shuffle it variety nice glad he had the right foot on and ended up using that triangle for a right hand so Jesse's gone to Mansell round the other way at the moment seems to be making it work was having to try quite hard it's nothing on that next triangle it's the volume itself super awkward position and we're talking about the jump it looks like we might have underestimated how difficult this mantle is now she's pushing up into it there's real risk of that left hand slipping just wrap the fingers around it now push it up it's hard to get into it but it's very comfortable when you get this on shore to take a decent rest now yeah that looked like a bit of a battle there she did up for a different method then loose to get on that volume I can see that foothold that at least Ord was really rapping crimping just off to the side of that shot so as to one screw screw on that gives you how Dona how small it is and she was using it as a crimp and sure the route setters would have touched that once what now that's impossible to hold but nevertheless loose to Rd was really crimping it and let's see what Jessie pills does in this jump section there's that tiny little holding screw heads themselves actually bigger than the hold but such the nature of jump like this with such big feet really bad holes can be used well if you bring up the left foot from there or if you just jump does bring up the left foot that's a bit quite happy on that foothold as well now just steps back down it's yeah it's a really nervy moment here for Jessie peels just really doesn't want to commit to that jump making sure she gets it right she does have time to play with here yeah it looks like it's okay to come back into the I would say rest but you know just a slightly more comfortable position to the guard she looks like she's going to line it up for the jump this time that left foot is up execute sit quite easily in the end a lot of jitters for Jessica on that move which is true well takes a quick look over a shoulder at the clock and she has around 2 minutes and 20 seconds on just an OP to rest there decided to keep on going yeah I think that she's probably a little bit concerned about the time but I think this top section could be quite quick to climb so yeah Jessica this stability took a big double rest there but she did have a rest just before it so you wouldn't afford to be feeling too pumped is coming out of that jump steaming through this upper section now Jessie pills really picked up the cadence all of a sudden [Music] yeah just good still looking quite comfortable a little bit indecisive there about that move this is the way it's an intermediate pump again and then this moving to the button looks quite hard this is what lose clipped off Jessica opts to go straight to the hole the green hole in the roof makes the clip it's the big move now jumping over to that right hand open the doors but swiftly closer than again therefore Jess appeals are some impressive moves that from Jessica she got a feedback on very very quickly there so now we are motoring into this top section and nearing the high point of a lucid Wadi [Applause] [Music] this is still looking pretty good here at the moment it's gonna go feet first now though just chuck the right foot up moves that hill over to that really nice little spike for the right hill Oh nicely done there from Jessie just make space for the right hand but a bit of a release to do here but it's gonna swing underneath there just chops in with the left hand oh he'll blows thanks like there's a real fight to be had at the top of the wall there Jessie pills currently standing just underneath loose to our D on hold for T to give me a tricky way out there for the judges yeah it's really good up there I think you do have to get wrestling on that that blob and that spin around and put the foot back to the left in order to go down to that undercut on the lower triangle with the black mark on it as well then you'll probably go left he'll roll over the top crimp crimp finishing hold good view of that jump opening the doors in the roof there take a bit of power out nailing that this was where she just lost the heel and then the hands go with it it just appeals hold 42 and that's sort of the giant cone that's at the top of the wharf where she had her feet and then managed to get both hands on 43 these two already got is the tiny little screw on spike on the end of the green volume so hopefully when the next climb it gets up high we'll be able to describe a little bit as to where that position is next Karaka now we heard from her in the pre-show really well this season just chokes down the ramp and into the main arena the first of three slovenians in this final this afternoon who missed out on this final it was a bit of a surprise for quite a few of us here she was been going so well this season on the routes really such depth in the women's competition it almost feels like a total lottery with the Silurian ladies as to who's going to do so well they're all but around that the the similar level then it all comes down to just some mistakes on the day I suppose vodka is definitely one of the Slovenian women that is on form at the moment as the climbers are waiting behind the wall before they come out to compete on this woman's fire no they will certainly know that they have to climb a long way before they are reaching the high point I'll be able to tell how long the climbers are on the wall I have a pretty good idea of where they are getting to as well I think probably also be able to understand when the climbs have done the jump as well it's amazing how perceptive the climbers are behind the wall actually they can really tell a lot if they if they haven't got the headphones on they are just listening to what's going on out there in the arena they say it be pretty clear that you've got to go quite a long way just based on how long you are sitting before it's your turn but also just the cheers from the crowd kind of tail quite a lots of these athletes since they are in an isolation zone so can't actually see what's going on they don't know the scores either let's see how literature gets on with this mantle opts for a hill at the moment now just changed it a little bit still kind of sitting on the hill [Music] double feet up now that's it in that rudeness or frogged rest position easily stands up and wraps that next volume with the left hand [Applause] [Music] Jesse had a bit of a tussle there getting on board that volume but Luke's crew was through it quite smoothly in the end we look around for the clock lots of time for now just under four minutes left you can see that in the bottom left-hand corner of your screen I'm taking it figures rest as she possibly can here hasn't sized up the jump much at all yet she's a halfway or four where she needs to get to to match Jessie pills at the moment now she pushes oh right for our looks like she's going to start to set up for this jump now rested for 30 seconds or so look so she's not quite done with the pret expel she's not using that little far is going to go from far left after far right doesn't bring the feet up doesn't need the little screw on foothold at all yeah very well executed that by Lutz good she is also quite adept at the old bouldering skills so you know they will be fairly happy at committing to a jump like that you can see the score the live scoring system on the right hand side of your screen cranking up as Lutra makes away of this central section of this huge competition wall here in Rio so enjoying how this rout builds up is really steady up to that jump and then it really kicks in and just got to start sprinting it to the top where you can see loose and Jesse pills looking on whose body currently sitting in the first position that's why she's in the the big Scottish throne just really locked off on that left hand cream for the moment uses intermediate now another spectacular move coming up slightly higher up off of that big green pinch which goes the first lady to clip off that right hand certainly like the crimps by the looks of it now it's the big pinch in the roof and this white girl move fix that world if the left foot back arm sees the roaster and make this clip [Music] lucha karate now from Slovenia pushing it into the roof section since we're the medals I decided slightly higher up now next couple of moves and see it on the bar on the right how close she is well this is what it's all about how much does she have left in the tank now to try and work out this sequence I would 42 is that big cone where just by a right shin that's hold for two to hold 43 is the one this is the high point that's what she's got a head on at the moment Marja tips come true through that crosses through no feet perception philip philipovich really high point you can really say hey if there's too much from the top now marakovits just could be an early top nearing this woman's European Championship final one more print with the right hand a big move to a big volume to finish and from Slovenia final top near squeezes out hold number 47 now I just got a jump for the finishing I just heard was a great matter I was very very close in the end I think it was that right foot that blue but that was probably because the arms were so gassed she couldn't keep the tension keep the weight through the feet at the end of the day so we'll see a replay in a moment that was an axe excellent performance mileage kotickovich very close to the top one more move that is the new high point here we go with the replay on that box ready for the jump big left-to-right jump for Luca on that solid though in many ways this woman's route is kind of like the men's route that has a bit of a show in it at the bottom of the wall and then from halfway onwards it's just about endurance climbing and blasting up this wall such is the height of this wall the roots has a really got flexibility to a bit of everything in there here you can see the last few moves and there the right foot just goes before so you may take the right hand off and the right foot must have just been smearing on the wall really I think quite get a real bite at that though that's a shame but first place now recorder then and just kind of coming up they both fell on a jump in the qualification round let's see what they make of this one out to the right and hopefully our Agora can get there and hopefully she can get past it yeah it was really interesting in the women's competition in the qualification round was eight women all fell on the same move will ever be on one of them yep six moves 16 so it's really low on the routine qualification but just didn't get enough from the second route to get through to the semis and obviously good enough in the semi-final itself to make it through to this final very different jump in this final compared to the qualifications well no that one was more of a sort of straight up distance jumper this is a lot more nervy that's sideways well we've seen a few ways to do it as well so it has already been done by slightly taller competitor from the field here and also it's slightly smaller with two different methods so you know I think it's possible for Laura to do the jump comes out of arrest and there is that tiny tiny button that some of the climbers have been using as well just to help her get a little bit closer to that big hold out past the X's but meanwhile she's still got quite a few moves to get there [Music] [Applause] basically up to the ledge there yeah very steady for that point seen a few people go punching that to that volume a little bit more force but she really statically by bringing that left foot up [Music] so now she gets on with this mantle then number one of the climbers who prefers the lace-up shoes but has to double the laces all the way around twice one around the foot then before doing them up see you there those boots wrapped in extra tight hunting come through at the moment looks like she's going to use the same method as lose too early by shuffling that hand across and using the volume but you've got a foot planted quite far back on that volume the round she needs to bring it right to the front or stand on the toe looks it's gonna try on the other side using the left first you can bring the feet into the center of the body easier it's going to be currently looks like she's going to try and stand it from there but you want better reach it now goes back to the right foot position to be on the wall here now it should look like that it's sorted great little sequence there on on this route something we don't normally see a really awkward position to get just stood up on a very big volume it's much more Boulder style as is this next move she's clipped the long draw marked with the X from the hold marked with the X little bit moment to have a rest tiny little hold that she's written as I put on just to help with that jump if you need it just in about 30 centimeters to the right that hanging quick-draw maybe we can get a bit of a close-up of that to see how bad that hold is they can see it you can see the huge ledger she's on and the tiny little intermediate little Iraq which didn't even bother using that you can see it's more like a thumbs brag than anything else parekura's lining this one up now then can't you get cleanly through this John she had a problem we were dumping the qualification round but can't you get it done in this final oh it does it really nice launches across the world no issues on that jump that's great to see that'll be a weight off her shoulders now she can really focus and bear down on this top section and let's see how far she can go [Music] once you move up to that green volume [Music] pull quite hard on that left-hand sloping sort of edge before moving into that crimp in the volume there I'm trying trying a fair bit here erigor [Music] same method as the previous girls putting that right foot up first just using the right hand intermediate to rock over get the weight over that right foot and then this left hand is where some people have clips from before stead of going to the big holes in the roof big move now for Lara he's looking tired looks like she's gonna stretch from low entrusting the gonna bring our foot up their butt does go all the way though they were seen in a different female athletes here just using different sequences this is the big jump over holes it just about front three fingers good angle there's see her cutting loose on the wall for Al just willing that quick tour closer to a quick look over at the clocks got one minute remaining still fire even amount of time to take your pins to swap hands on this hole fell a bit short back on the fingers where it all starts to happen now absolutely climbing out of the skin now sly she's starting to struggle big move up again Ferrara good good style here very good use of the heel toe now right huge good and she get a foot down onto the volume below that was the key yes she does take that heel off as she got anything left from here now got 15 seconds on the clock she's going to have to motor get an ID point [Applause] nice that one wins therefore our Agora she is struggling the time they 5 seconds left this one's gonna be really close just comes up half a move short of look for active it's there good effort this one is a really close one here in this final at the moment the four climbers down four to go all of them being separated in the top couple of moves at the moment yeah this is turning into an absolute corker we've got Lutz good rock Evette on 46 plus Lara well you just saw then 45 plus and then from Franz do Adi 43 Jessica pulse on that 42 so very close at the top there but it looks like a perfect ranking at the moment now it's a good fight for America or that look at the replay right down at the bottom war such a huge wall here the jump really caused to no issues just did really well to kind of take that issues that she earned in the qualification round just forget about it and push on with what's in front of you it's quite an impressive route this I think Mike I think the route setters have done a really good job because it has got thrills and spills on it and it seems to be working for the shorter climber under the toilet liner so great job up to now from the route setters for the women's final yeah I put an asterisk up to now let's see let's see what happens [Music] Tina Johnson abscess for Norway then 25 years old she's been up and down a little bit on the IFS seed tour looks like she's back in form now though she look like she enjoyed herself in the semi-final so this is really pleased to be climbing in this final muscle in this Emmys it was definitely one to watch you're going to be inspired about how to try hard on the route we know a really quick turnaround here actually between the semi-final round and fine around sometimes there's a big delay some of the French comps for example semi finals in the morning and then the finals really late at night some of them start at 9:00 p.m. but this one started a hard past two in the afternoon I said that was a pretty brutal start for the climbers a lot of them having breakfast at half 6 7 a.m. to get ready for 8:30 start here for the semi-final so climb has been up for quite a few hours now not sure if some of the officials are too impressed with the early start there we are they start early finish I know we were [Music] well teeny onsen making steady progress up this bottom wall probably I say easy climbing relatively easy climbing to what's coming in that top roof but it's always going to take the edge off the climber I was gonna take a little bit of power out of the arms energy like the analogy of the car with its petrol tank not move not putting accelerated down through that lower section but just burning a little bit of fuel and climbing is all about leap climbing is all about just burning the fuel in the most efficient way possible and putting the power down when you need to just see the petrol tank emptying higher and higher you go [Music] it's amazing now bigger atom on rose petals anchors to be honest maybe he's got two tanks well why don't know they're armed it's very true [Applause] great close-up of this section now really awkward to get on top of this volume we've seen numerous methods we've also seen that having that right foot buried so far back against the wall just seem to cause a few problems see Tina working that foot out to the edge the toe outside left as Lara did as well through there a little bit faster than Lara see the chalk really building up on that volume of so many climbers arrested there notably when climbers arresting just pile on the chalk like the men's john really a big air of anticipation just sits over the arena as they prepare to do the jump all goes very quiet it's amazing really for the athletes just to manage to maintain complete composure because everybody is looking at you all eyes in the arena right centered on you and what you're about to do but they just seem to stay really relaxed just forget about everybody else just focus on this jump good running really low on time already yeah it's a good setup here we've got two very big screens on the floor you've not been able to see them on your lifee but they are huge timer screen so it's very easy for the athletes to locate the timer and keep an eye on what they are doing Tina Johnson definitely using a little bit of time at the moment here head of a wins on the finish doesn't like the look of this one she's got to commit to moving now with two minutes to go she wants to get anywhere near that high points you've got to get a move on [Applause] just look for just sizing that way which you can dump for now you're gonna use that tiny little intermediate still not happy with it now she uses that as a little foam cat just tests it see if it's of any use now used again crowd responds for Joanne I wish doing it right just flat footing that right foot now and does hit it it's like a long time to commit to it over 40 seconds in the end once she got into the position just to line up that jump and go for it one minute twenty two she's got a really motor up this top section now yeah she's looking quite comfortable but all that waiting indecision on that jump was really sapped at the time out of that clock one minute ten seconds it's got a long way to go [Music] under a minute now you can see the way that she's just picked up the speed obviously the moves are increased massively in difficult into a different style does that go again move that we've seen a couple of people touch and drop back down use it's an intermediate preferably for the right hand he working that big dish made it slightly awkward rather than a toe still got another ten moves or so and two quick clips to make before she gets near the high point and she only has 20 seconds to do it committee move here now as we've seen already now is it well it's got this clip quickly she doesn't fall off before she's definitely running out of time here we all run out of time local MC will tell her on the microphone that she'll run out of time [Applause] I mean she was looking a little bit tired but that's the game with these jumps you've got to commit to them quite quickly because six minutes is not a long period of time for a wall this long route says they know that they put these jumps in and it's up to the climbers to calculate the game in front of them I think she's gonna be a bit disappointed - it took yeah somebody out there can replay and see how long she was standing on that ledge poor form um it must have been close to two minutes the third of her time on one move I'm sure on the one hand she'll be disappointed but then in reflection she'll be happy that she's been able to climb in this final today and give that a really good go on the route and where she did fall she did look like she was starting to run out of gas for sure pretty steady through the jump in the end when she finally did commit but she definitely lost a lot of time deciding what to do there the second jump up in the roof very solid through that as well that's the point where she'd already run out of time which yeah the local emcee was hollering through his PA system telling her to come down effectively mr. Cullen's coming up next it's let's go rocky sitting in the winner's chair at the moment spittin there for quite a while now yeah right let's say who's so close to the top [Music] well Slovenian number two out in the final now Sasha : just running through a few of the moves two climbers remaining after Kallen interestingly three climbers fell off the jump in the qualification now record at us Kallen and Mina markavitch so it's a yes it's gonna be an interesting one here [Music] Sasha Callan gets underway on her attempt on this final [Applause] I was good to try and move as steady and efficiently as possible of this initial section you have to save as much energy as possible for that steep finish to this route [Music] no problem with the first lower wall no issue with the clips steady away nice and relaxed have good results - Karen sick the World Cup in whooshing 2018 China one of these climbers will be heading to China just in a couple of weeks time for last to lead events of the season we just arrived at the ledge we're going to see the jump-off I think no matter what size you are this is always a challenge to get on this ledge and small it's awkward if you tall it's awkward it's awkward move isn't perfect move got that right foot really close to the wall again which makes it really hard to put any pressure for it and straighten the leg to stand up to and she will try and bring that right foot a bit closer you kind of committed herself a little bit here left hand has gone out to the underside of that volume now just trying to use that right hand volume a little bit you can see really hard to stand up in that position because here in the walls overhanging it or your left foots right underneath you I think she's committed yes swap hands underneath now it's going to make that stand up really awkward needs to try and wriggle that right foot out a little bit watch that bolt for the left foot as well now here she really needs to sort herself out a little bit she knows it she keeps looking down and up chose to wriggle that foot in some way I think she's got so much weight on that right foot she's actually struggling to release it now I managed to come all the way down I think she's gonna reset and just bring that keep it the right hand in that position how much times elapsed already so you started at six minutes down to two minutes 33 here yeah that times dropped super fast there spent a lot of time on that hold which handle she'd go up to that undercut now we've really doesn't look happy with this mantle trying it as a left hand back down now now goes back down again you just saw her there shouting some support from the from the throne glance that right foot again this time a bit more flat-footed rather than on the hill but begins a struggling to go out that position really struggling to get that left foot up but I really commit just to pulling hard on it she's gonna put a trouble here that's a gallon now manages to get the left foot up let's just look how bunched up she is almost sitting on the volume villages to even be in that position trying to fight there strangle that left knee to drop in she finally does it hid from the crowds oh right battle to get on there quick look over the shoulder only got one minute 18 on the clock and she shakes her head she knows that was an absolute epic battle to get there and she really doesn't have much time she's going to have to absolutely separate if she's going to make it up the rankings a little bit here yeah unfortunately done that really slow mentally she's got an even slower move now just adding to the troubles her beard was actually ripped and it's hanging over the top of her short web lid all going a little bit wrong for Carolyn at the moment it's a shame actually the wheels are falling off a little bit when it comes to that mantle and now it looks like she is going to commit to the jump [Applause] just an awkward jump this one you just can't quite decide what to do so you're going Franco statically out certainly hasn't got time for that unfortunately ten seconds that she might time out in the middle of this jump at the moment and does eventually fall off she got very stressed by the mantle and then never that was comfortable on the ledge it's a bit of a disaster for her unfortunately such naught could bold remove to girl shame that she couldn't put much power down through the route really tap on the shoulder so yeah bit of an upset there for Jeff Cohen yeah I'm so she'll be a little bit annoyed with herself on that one it's amazing the impact one move can have on the next and planting that foot a little bit too far into the ledge we've seen time and time again in this final then it's all gonna bit wrong but at the moment she just runs forward and gives Luca a big hug she's obviously super pleased to see Luca sat on the throne they're currently sitting in at first place with two more climbers to come and Oklahoma at Mena Markovic still to climb Malkovich is out next yes absolutely superb in the semi-final had the high point for all the way up till the final climb around her home and came out and it was real vintage Mina Markovic up there it's thoroughly enjoyable to watch Serena's legend form again that's for sure it's been a while she's always been knocking on the door of some good results she definitely looks like she is back on farm which is really really good to see from such a legend of the Slovenian team yeah just to put it into perspective just 21 first places well cut lead that's a lot more first places and then a number of these especially in the lads who actually entered into World Cup finals and she's won 21 of them 66 podiums are we going to see another podium today from Nina in this European Championships and possibly a title see how mean it gets on with that board resection she has actually won bouldering World Cups as well and see if she favors the sort could bold reception it was the awkward it's difficult and it's very slow that seems to be a bit of a problem here especially Tina Johnson half-sized really struggle fit as well as their calendar we just saw [Music] this minute here's who saw an hour ago bringing up like an effort just like that Mina Malkovich that classic mean a style static strong crimpy know then that's well this is around us at a time we saw Jessa Callen arrive at this point Mina is here again four minutes something and this was where it all went wrong he's Nasir burnt a lot of time but Mina has both we took quite quickly and just through that a lot swifter now yeah it's all about the clock for me now that's very good going getting that second foot up as soon as that comes up it seems quite easy to stand up easy being a relative term anyway easy for this lot see the big talk build up on that tiny little nubbin as well just out on the right the intermediate and see I mean I get some of this dump can should keep it composed and get through it but in their time she's climbed really well up to this point but she's not hanging around here she's decided to move relatively quickly there's deep pressure she lines this one up she's committed to that position now looks like she's going to go for it bounces drops down loads the feet and hits it milik with a full stretch yeah I was watching that right foot and you can see the right foot slip down to the edge of the garden she looked down at it and it was that decision do i or don't I and she went for it it's stuck he's made it through the die now and that was your time that was great she just quickly turn around to the crowd fist fist bump the crowd are missing up thank God for that got it done I mean a Malkovich the penultimate climb and now pushing into the real meat of the route let's go a curvature compat trip from Slovenia it's sitting in the winners chair at the moment just one move from the top of the wall meaning Markovic wants to dethrone her she's got to get really really high basically got to come close to or top the route and by close I mean she's got to get to the last move these next few moves have got to play into Mina's bag I mean she really does like the crimping old-school basic nasty small holes and hard moves yeah that's Karaka vich is the one to beat then however 46 plus is the high point at the moment now record just behind her on 45 plus sir lose 2 Rd first climb around 43 that's all right up in the top head wall and Mina currently making her way up the wall she's currently at 35 Holt 35 you see on the right hand side that ranking the next climber she's aiming for just big 10 de anza big punch up left now and this big committing move over will Mina be able to go statically and roll over we should get the clip first she doesn't just jump straight into it full of confidence Mina Malkovich here at this European Championships still plenty of time one minute 32 left on the clock as well mean of arkovich now launches into this heads head wall into there a really steep angle change at the high point in the semi-final for a very long time you see she's pushing close to Jessi pills his score and the fourth position Tamara one move ahead of her what would she do here will she go feet first of all she just crushed straight through what does Mina markavitch got left for us looks like she's gonna try and cross it no and now she puts the right foot up and gets that little left toe hook she kind of blocked that hold a little bit all the really nice left hand under wrap though super awkward this section 42 that hole 43 is the next little spike gotta somehow release the hands a little bit try and get that right hand all the way around looks like mean is just trying to keep going feet first still got time on the clock here Mina my now just unwinds it all that's amazing so nice to get a feet down from the other position we've seen you need the feet back down here couldn't quite get the hand sorted that was a good battle by Mina there it was so awkward that section bumped her up into fourth place sadly not on the podium but a very very good performance from Mina there yeah she was looking really solid up to that point as we said then she really committed to wrapping that big cone hold at the top of the which point she found it really difficult to kind of unwind trying to go feet first a couple of times ultimately unfortunately in the end seemed to just power out on those wraps her finger the way that mean has been going this weekend she's gonna be pretty disappointed to see that she's down in fourth position and being so close to the top of the wall yeah I agree there it's quite a complex sequence to read though you've asked to put the feet up one moment and then you've got to bring them down the next and it's quite hard to actually see that sequence and how to make those movements with the feets just mean through that jump she'll be happy like she'll be happy there you go yeah was looking forward to that it's quite here in the row she's still looking really solid pathetic really crimping so much power when she wants to unwind the field I heard you seem to just go from zero pumped 100% pumped yeah winding those hands just didn't quite get the hands the right way around and now we're looking at the leader from the semi-final Anacapa Hoeven the last climber of the competition this weekend still very young but she just seems like Anika's been on the scene forever 23 years old us unbelievable back from injury but definitely hitting some form she's great to see and that climbing as ever with a watch on her harness final climber out in this European Championships here at Rafa [Music] three European champion medals already handed out over the yesterday one today we're Adam Andre winning in the men's competition and then a probe and take that final medal you'd have to take it away from Little Rock I bet she was right at the top of the wall as we were just saying [Music] [Music] I like moving nice up this bottom while opt for that high step into the left-hand drilling that toe and now for the awkward mount up on this big horizontal box it's proven to be the downfall of a few climbers not that they've actually fallen off it but it is a real battle sometimes and can take some real energy out of the climber and that gets both feet up quite comfortably there now got a really pull hard in that right hand just to start powering through the feet drop the left foot back down we have seen already that the easiest way with both feet on that box is left foot outside edge front on in this position there we go and the twist onto the outside edge and definitely through that looks really powerful that method yeah it just opens the body up by twisting a little bit there but a bit more room for the legs to start pushing through them so walk when you've got your hands and your feet so close together a lot of leg power required all of a sudden now this jump for an AK few issues with jumps in the past more than capable of doing it though she's committing to it quite early or at least goes to fill that little intermediate hold you've got a right foot pace too far left looks like you're going to try and jump it from there and see the calculations going on the Homans mind almost there looks like she's gonna kick it along joven so steady normally so controlled usually goes to everything with such calculate and that time she further is a more of a running jump it just absolutely blasted for it annik Verhoeven falls at the bottom of the wall that jump the only climber to fall off it she'll end up eight vanechka rocof it's from Slovenia with that epic battle finished with a forty six plus and wins the competition Lahore Agora walks away with a silver medal and loose two Rd comes away with fur loose diwali a superb performance was the first climber out and putting just an extraordinary fight after hard 43 she takes away the bronze medal and that took us by surprise there a little bit we haven't seen anybody fall after that jumping were just saying that an axe had a few problems we've jumped in the past and that one you would have fought with Souter quite well yeah but those top three though I mean all of those podium climbers climbed absolutely to their max loose to Adi putting that performance in the very early doors 15 years old Lara one of the smaller competitors in the final managed to get through that box section and through the jump and very high onto the wall and lucha lucha rec avec very very good very strong taking the win of 46 plus what a fantastic performance to fall off one move or half a move to the top she was going for the last Howard it's a yeah it's fair play ultimately the best climber has won this European Championships that's what we want to see she was a definitely the best on the road absolutely superb all weekend in fact for lucha Karaka vich and yeah a brisk into the end of the women's competition their smiles their goat skirt and her coach da men very very happy team down there Lara as well very exciting sadly an AK wasn't to be today but supposed to be happy with the performance over the weekend arena she'll take away and have a look at it she did very very well over the weekend it's a quick flower ceremony now before the fall podium gets underway now rigueur against announced to the crowd [Applause] a smile from loose guardian' lauric over there score 46 plus he takes it certainly big smiles all around they're three very happy climbers [Applause] ideally stick with us we will be bringing you for podiums over the next few minutes into it that one's interesting roots gasps well the route setters do ride a very fine line when it comes to putting a trick Boulder in like that and we saw that it was like a double challenge it was hard to get set up hard to get on to the volume and then quite a mental game to do the jump and only one Scout thankfully in the women's only one yeah we saw two people fall on the jump in the men's competition and that one was more sort of powerful jump with a slightly slippery feet but yeah in the women's competition a really awkward man saw up onto the volume and then there's always a slightly awkward jump and like I said it was a bit of a shame we're just here if we can from bluffing it's done local mare [Music] the clinic Center is a reflection [Music] I was saying fantastic the pointing things which didn't change by Mason battalions of all the climbers from [Music] I want to personally recognize what is phenomenally these individuals eating for themselves up and CDs but of course there are people behind me detectives corrected the supposed to be fine to perform for the last few days we don't eat people the Federation is receiving a report this immediately the capital is something the citizens will enjoy for years to come media I think finally is right to which all the ideas were working towards representative if any base the walk and success as they headed towards the 2020 limit something if you're building in the last three days [Music] [Applause] just as the sort of announcements are being made here everyone's preparing for the podiums we can't just bring you those final results once again that is going to be the women's presentation Meena Markovic gasps she's you know we've been saying that she's been really good I've been on Form she's back to backing meaner of best bet little bits point of her like 42 blushes powered out and out sort of left-to-right reverse at the top of the war yeah I was expecting a little bit more at the top section that wall but she didn't seem to quite get her hands the right way around so when she did manage to drop the foot down it wasn't really going to work for her it was definitely a hard section to read that was just you arrived there put the feet up work out what to do you just got to go with the flow and obviously Lucca and Lara did that very very well there Nina didn't quite find the method you can see the men's competition was it ever in doubt Adam Andra aggravatin greatest climbers of all time wins this one 45 plus 7 moves ahead without pursuing his Lopez from Spain young Spanish athlete is just doing so well this year in 2019 and plenty of big things for him to come steal Sasha blamin she woke up winner from this year takes away the bronze medal in front of Martin Bergen based on count back to the previous round but good efforts from kneeboard Marcus Jim Pope and Luca Prosecco Yakov Schubert was that just horrendous flip at the start of the jump and barely even actually got into the jump it just slipped early unfortunately that's a real shame for him yeah it's a fantastic for Jim to make it into that final and sadly Jakob for him it wasn't to be it didn't quite show his best having that slip on the job for sure he didn't quite get to challenge al-amin he's one of the few climbers in that finer that could really give Adam a run for his money could say three different nationalities on the podium today France Italy and Slovenia with Slovenian national anthem for Luka rockfish and an amount of times we've heard that this season with you and your guy on Brett sweeping the season and the Slovenian team just seems unstoppable you must know all the words by now to that but you are absolutely right the Slovenian team are definitely a force to be reckoned with and we were always focusing on younger gambhira but here today you have three young very talented up-and-coming climbers that at some point will certainly be giving their young yet a run for their money yeah Easter Rd superb 2019 for her and she was the first climber out and put on an absolutely epic battle that was fairly enjoyable to watch and yeah congratulations to looser such a young climber to take away at bronze medal at European Championships after staggering youth World Championships is talking about youth world champ gets to be world champion one of them Bower of Gor a silver medal here really suited there actually in the end after the big jump that was the undoing of annek Verhoeven she takes away the silver medal winning this one though it's going to be a slovenian once again it's just having the most extraordinary two weeks let's go back a bit short 2019 european champion representing slovenia half a move from topping the boat brilliant performance from her well she definitely hit some form the last few weeks like to say michael that's a fantastic performance and she was very very close to hitting the top of that route it was a brilliant performance and I think from the setting point-of-view a well judged standard for today we will now be hearing the slovenian national anthem that i won't be singing along to here [Music] [Applause] [Music] here's your European champion taking the medals taking the swag away well isn't it better whiskey there for loose and she's 18 oh no I don't be giving it to their parents I think it's absolutely freezing well yeah but there we go finalists taking the the applause from the crowd just a minute ago and standing there for the photos lots of smiles on that podium that's what we like to see some young climbers really coming through and making it in the senior game today so next up we are going to move on to the men's podium it's down to the front they will get themselves sorted with the medals hopefully did not lost them find those little miniature bottles of whiskey yeah sure there's plenty people trying to rob those got my sitting as well yeah looks like we're ready to go with the men's presentation [Applause] saturdayman takes another medal in 2019 then he switched the bronze certainly been a good year for Sasha up till now till a few more events to go but second medal of the season good job here from the organizers all round through Italy it's been a good weekend in action if you haven't had a chance to check the speed finals just last night semi finals this morning obviously this final tonight's been pretty decent action all the way throughout their turn as Lopez then from Spain takes away another meadow he's opted alee as per let's go really having a superb week of ofse action a real fighter a great way to watch in a good week for him like you say Michael to podiums Zion that whiskey pretty quickly they're pleased with that I'm Angela is the world champion he's now at the European champion seaport weekends work for him very rarely disappoints on the lead points he was the best climber of the day in the men's competition on that final route absolutely blasted through the jump and then push really high up into the final roof section just four moves pretty much from the very top of the wall we got a little bit caught in some awkward sequences I will now hear the Czech national anthem [Music] there we go that's the men's presentation three very talented young men put on a great show here this weekend I say congratulations to all of the organizers that I've stream team here and of course the athletes themselves I say a huge thank you to everybody for tuning in to this European lead and speed finals from Edinburgh don't forget next IOC events in October sheer men in China in Zion in Japan and of course the big one that Toulouse Olympic qualifiers in November well I just like to say a very big thank you to you all watching out there and the organizers here and I just like to say it's a good buy from me and it's a good buy from Michael goodbye see you the next one [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] you [Music] you
Info
Channel: teamBMC
Views: 106,346
Rating: 4.8945632 out of 5
Keywords: bmc, bmc tv, bmctv, bouldering, climbing, ifsc, speed climbing, competition climbing, rock climbing, gb climbing, gbclimbing
Id: EjaJjP_QJhs
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 147min 32sec (8852 seconds)
Published: Sun Oct 06 2019
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