IFSC World Cup Villars 2021 || Lead semi-finals

foreign [Music] [Music] me [Music] [Applause] [Music] hello and welcome to the semi-finals of the ifsc lead world cup here in vila stuart in switzerland today 26 women and 26 men will be battling it out for just eight finals places our venue here today surrounded by mountains provides a stunning backdrop to the action we are about to witness my name is matt groom and i'm joined in the commentary box by tina has tina part of team norway and first of all commiserations for not making it through to the semi-finals today what was that qualifying round like for you um i found the route pretty awkward yesterday it was hard to find the flow and fight on the roots but uh yeah not feeling comfortable on the wall well we've got two roots in front of us that's the temperature 16 degrees and 54 humidity nice and cool this morning the sun has been shining for a while now but it's cloudy which is going to make good conditions for the athletes as they hit their wits against that wall highest athletes will go through only eight of course make it through into the finals this evening so let's have a little catch up a watch of the qualification round from yesterday here in vilas hello i'm alberto and we're in the village world cup [Music] [Music] the cracks of the second route was a bit tricky i think because he got like a two-hand jump and now like like in the second part of the qualifying someone did like uh without jumping i think it's quite easier than how we did it and in the other route it's like i think there is any groups move it's more like endurance and don't get too bummed i'm mia krampel a climber from slovenia and we are in willard's in swiss on world cup [Music] the first route the black and yellow one was pretty tricky it had to jump and many girls that weren't so like confident uh fell on the jump probably the hardest part was wasn't the jump but to decide to going to move because the move was quite short but and some girls wanted to reach it but if you wanted to reach it like slowly it was harder and many girls fell this month but if you just decided and jumped it was pretty easy so the hardest part was to actually decide to going to move for the pink root i wouldn't say there was like a part that was harder than others um like a lot of moves were i mean the moves were pretty easy but you get pumped during the way because the route is super long so yeah i would say that like bing crude didn't even have like this cracks heart [Music] [Music] [Music] what a qualification edit there that got me psyched early in the morning here in vilas better than a coffee and let's have a look at our women's lead semi-finals lucia she's on the wall currently climbing as is nicholas cola and that is our starting list of 26 athletes who will be competing here this morning in vilas they're all aiming for this evening's finals eight men and eight women will make it through to this stage and the athletes coming out in the opposite order from where they qualified if they qualified in first they'll be coming out last so yanya will be the final female athlete out on our stage there is nicholas golat he's on the wall and he will be our first climber having qualified in last place from the qualification round you can see as we scan down the list some big names involved here and stefano gasolfi he qualified in first position from the qualification round and he'll be out last to compete and we're currently watching on the wall just in a good resting position with that high heel hook she's 17 three world cups so far really enjoying this semi-finals tina what's going through these athletes minds right now because it's a long process this semi-finals is it just a case being backstage keeping yourself focused how do you deal with that um i like to warm up long and hard to stay focused and psyched and sometimes even so much that i get tired but i usually climb pretty well when i'm tired but i guess everyone deals with it differently and staying psyched is important we're watching nicholas kolat on the right slightly struggling with the pinchy section of this route power screaming his heart out as he bumps that left there's a nice split screen of both the action you can see nicholas go along just giving absolutely everything on his middle section yeah he's a fighter absolutely finally takes a big fall [Applause] [Music] semi-finals he's done did you there she's about halfway up now approaching the white volume section and tina this section apparently has a knee bar in it it'll be quite interesting to see how many athletes find this if they need to use it okay interesting the rest that uh the route setters talked about doesn't really look like a rest to me yeah we'll chat about the specifics of the route as we'll go through but basically broken down into sections for all these routes and it's here they're just resting that knee bar we're chatting about just preparing herself for the traverse out left on some big holds they're not as good as they look sloppy in the sun and tina suddenly worth mentioning is the sun is just catching the wall here yeah do you think it's going to be difficult that makes it more difficult for athletes or is it not quite hot enough to make a difference i think today it's pretty cloudy so maybe it doesn't make a big difference but i remember earlier years it's been so annoying that the semi starts at 10 because it makes the first few climbers climb in the sun which is unfair yeah always tricky to battle the weather we saw torrential rain in innsbruck last week our commentary box basically got flooded luckily the weather forecast isn't quite as bad today presses out left just making no fray through this section here onto the head wall you can see the quick draw hanging down the athletes must clip all of the quick draws as you can see let's here they're going for a handheld they didn't really exist that smear of chalk on the wall [Applause] [Music] she's starting to struggle a little bit now as she slaps up for the slope and comes down about three-quarters way through the route let's see it will it be enough if you want to keep up with the live scores as they happen down do download the ifsc app it's free and i can keep you updated and there is nathaniel coleman as he gets started for his semi-final and tina the root centers on his first section for the men said it's straight forward but hard climbing yeah uh lots of little crimps here straight away does it start like this phase athletes or is it just their breath is what they used to do um i definitely prefer more physical more simple climbing in the beginning because you get to into the flow state pretty fast but uh a lot of climbers of course like more tricky routes yeah that flow state you can sometimes see it with athletes they're just like water on the wall floating upwards daniel coleman easy through this first section as he crosses over into this pinchy section little cutlass [Music] big usa presence here today a couple of olympians in the semi-final but we are starting to see less and less olympians taking place or coming to the competitions as they prepare for the olympics tina looking at this women's route i know you must be desperate to actually be out there climbing the thing just having had a sighter on it a first look are there any sections you think are going to be causing difficulties for these athletes the red looks pretty physical and sustained pretty straightforward but there are some more committing moves like the flick thing where she's approaching now and some bigger moves on the next part but i bet the girls will come up pretty high and maybe the action will happen on the on the upper part nathaniel coleman now he finds a section where the route setters thought the athletes could rest he chooses not to for a while instead coming straight into this next pinchy part of the route characterized by those blue holes you can see nathaniel clipping all the quick draws if you need to support climbing the aim is to climb from the bottom all the way to the top clipping all the quick draws along the way the athletes who top out will finish the route by clipping that last quick draw they will receive a top which is the highest points and then the rest are scored on how high they get at the wall with every hold being awarded a different point as nathaniel coleman cuts loose on those pinches it's actually ticked on the left hand there the route setters did that deliberately as he takes the ball down tina with tick marks like that as we watch [Applause] chloe get you through the first physical section but she peels off the wall as well i think she looks pretty solid i think i think this was her first world cup pretty sure yeah perhaps less experience than some of the athletes and experience does play into it doesn't it because the whole weekend it i always find it's a time management issue more than anything else because you go from a hotel you've got the iso up the road is it difficult as a rookie coming in to a world cup we can just to work out what you've got to do i think doing them i think doing the qualities at the same time is new for most of the rookies and like time management between quality one and two is i mean i still find it difficult because sometimes the rest is long so you need to like cool down and start over again and like yesterday the rest was pretty short so there was no time to cool down and warm up again so you had to like choose your tactics maintain a level of pump throughout your rest yeah and stay psyched we're just watching some replays here of the round we just saw it's chloe cuscoi [Music] and martinez joins us from team germany she's just having a moment to look at the wall these athletes did get some time to look at the route before they climbed it today but we do consider it sort of an on-site they haven't seen these routes before yeah is that something as an athlete you guys practice quite a lot yeah exciting routes yeah in training for sure i actually find that on-siting easier than flash [Laughter] they do get a chance to see it talk through it as martinez gets her semi-finals underway here in vila switzerland if you're just joining us hello and welcome my name is matt groom and i'm joined by tina from team norway very excited to have norway represented here in the commentary box and this is our lead semi-finals here this morning martina just resting her way through the bottom section of this route not particularly difficult down low but sustained and you can see some sloppy holds early on just to wake everyone up a little bit [Music] she makes the clip tina i'm looking at these holes and they hold on her right hand there blocked by another hole is that a root set a trick uh yeah i think it's pretty common now they often it's for blocking helix and footholds or make the holes worse or smaller i think we see it in most competitions nowadays it just gives yeah something else to worry about you've got to be quite concise though yeah yeah for sure [Music] let's see i think we see a lot of new holes today holes i haven't seen before like the big cheetahs the reset is getting a nice toy box to play for to play with let's just say martina demo she matches just resting fairly low on not quite in her flow and she does take a fall early on she didn't ever quite look comfortable there tina nah yeah it looks like a pretty committing move not necessarily so hard but you gotta commit and like go fast yeah there's a flip hand move which we'll talk about when we next see someone on that meanwhile canada's victor badarand as he makes the little traverse across this is where the root centers thought there might be a rest on this next right hold a fairly small feet there but he's milking the rest he pumps out and does that hand flip catch move choosing to move straight on that's our wall speed wall on the left that was in action last night so go back and watch that finals if you haven't already it was a very exciting finals as viktor high heel hook let's get himself in position you can see how strenuous these clipping positions are as he starts to power scream and a toe hook just to keep himself in keeping that core tight and now he flips out left to the little pop the dino and tina i wanted to talk about the tick mark you can see here on the left hold the one he's holding now there's a tick mark that the root set has put on okay routers do little little things like that just help the athletes out just yeah just to show them little beta tricks yeah sometimes the tick marks are to mark where the if there are screw ons on a big hole or julia fisher now from austria she's 24. 31 world cups has never progressed to a final so she'll be looking to change that today making this bottom section look a little easier we saw martina do it now she's looking for this flip move watch the left hand it's going to flip over and catch that red volume well that's the plan anyway so she sets herself up for this tricky little move left hand flips and she holds it well it looks quite simple but a move like that requires a lot of all body muscle and it's quite tiring especially at the beginning of the route yeah and it's pretty you get pretty nervous when you can like uh shake and think just before committing i prefer it when there's like no time to think you just you have to commit before you get there yeah we're chatting in that qualifying edit about that the the moment before the jump is worse than the jump off yeah [Music] the athlete's having to commit early on in both these routes there's a similar move for the men in a similar move for the women and of course only one chance in this semi-final the qualifying rounds you get two routes so if it all goes wrong in the first one you do have another opportunity whereas from now on it really is down to these minutes on the wall julia cutting loose looking good now starting to lose just pop that left [Music] [Applause] and a heel move up for julia as she hits these crimps she's got to have something in the tank because this next section very pressy but there is a rest coming up but she can find it with a knee bar on this first hold i think she's found it yes she has other foot and she locks it in a knee bar is when you're literally oh no hands lee bar as well that's cool to see adam andra esque there i find when i'm climbing the problem with rests are is that sometimes you don't want to leave them yeah because they often feel so good but these athletes are on a time limit here so they do have to go quick the knee bar is when you use your knee to press into the wall taking all the weight off your hands if done right one of those moves that looks incredibly easy when you see it on tv you try it in real life it is actually quite difficult crossing through up to the right sloping out she makes her way through that volume out to the crib just starting to have to battle here a little bit as she comes up she's got to clip that quick draw which she does [Music] i'm almost sideways now she's still going pressing finding some power from somewhere [Applause] [Music] tina's so physical this section yeah this route on the overhang yeah julia has been looking tired for a long time but she still just keeps on going you can see as the camera zooms in some pretty hot small holes and this is the right dish the sloppy dish that [Applause] she's going to fall on tina i think you called it that it seemed like she was tired very low down on that route and somehow just kept going yeah this move is probably and the people will fall on a bombardier he takes a fall in the bottom half of this route about to enter the pinchy section yeah the move is a bit awkward with the feet so you need like extra juice to be able to do it it looks like yeah we just saw julia take a fall on that move that dish that is far sloppier in real life than it looks even on tv marcelo bombardi comes down he'll be a little disappointed with that but i think this men's roots so so physical right off the bat we're going to lose a lot of people that is our current leader board with micellar bombardier we just saw climb on 31 victor baron 29 nathaniel coleman in 28 plus that score is worked out by the number of hold they got to the plus is when you make an effort to use the next hold julia fisher 32 plus currently leading the way for a bite let's see this leaderboard is likely to change remember we've got 26 athletes and only eight are going to make it through and then tina they have to go backstage and just wait for the results constantly refreshing the phone how stressful is that moment it's pretty stressful and you never know with the appeals you can change the coaches looking for any infraction that they might use their advantage it's all part of this climbing game we've now got juliet duffy from team usa on the left and alberto gotta from italy on the right hand side as he just takes a moment to look up roberto gotta never progressed to a finals as of yet will this be his moment she gets underway on this first section straight forward climbing for the men but hard men's route about 8c 8c plus according to the route setters the women's round about 8b 8b plus although a lot of these athletes will be able to on site hc outside it's a whole different matter when you're on plastic under pressure on site yeah i think that's something sometimes tina people are surprised about is we sometimes see athletes we know climb 9b outside falling on these roots but it's a whole different ball game isn't it when you're out here yeah i feel like climbing on plastic it's uh it's a lot more physical than uh than rock like the friction you get from rock can give you so much more extra but plastic you just have to squeeze so hard yeah i always find it difficult to rest when i'm climbing an indoor route but these athletes milking every opportunity they can as alberto comes into this little pinchy cut loose move and then look for the toe hook toe hooks when you use the rubber on the end of your climbing shoes to toe in order just to keep you on as you can see the problem with tow hooks is sometimes you've got to unlock them like alberto did that good when you're static and then the second you have to move at some point you have to pop that toe off and that can cause a bit of a swing [Music] as alberto makes his way into this first semi-rest i'd say i was expecting a bit more of a rest but it seems quite tricky here and tina you were saying that that move similar to the women's just slightly less committing perhaps looks like a little less far and maybe less room for them to think about it yeah [Music] [Applause] yeah it looked like he didn't have much time to think he just went for it as for the girls yeah the duffy girl she just waited and waited and waited and then went for it and fell yeah watch a replay at the moment alberto makes his way into the pinchy section watch out for this little dino coming up indicated by the tick mark which is a line of chalk on that blue hole on the left he's going to pop over with his right hand and catch the left there's the part but he just drops it on the top roberto coming down and we lost julia duffy as well while we're watching alberto climb that this route proving tricky for our first couple of athletes no tops so far expect to see that later on this is a little replay of julia duffy from america as she attempts a different beat to their team and she was coming in with the left and then trying to pop out right whereas most women we've seen are going right and then catching the left yeah i think because the left hold is a dual attack it's pretty hard to get any tension on it when you go left first i think maybe if you would have a thumb it would make more sense but uh yeah yeah it looks tricky this way okay is in action now from germany she's qualified sixth place our sixth athlete out she's just 19. [Music] it's interesting as we see this olympic period approaching some of the perhaps biggest names at the moment in climbing are 20 olympians they're starting to not compete as much as they prepare for the olympics but that does allow perhaps less well-known athletes to have a moment a breakthrough moment yeah yeah it's for sure easier to make semis i still think making finals is still very hard but uh semis allows for more new names like team germany now two new semi-finalists like germany has mainly been a bouldering nation the last couple of years but now it looks like they get more league climbers as well which is cool and there is one of them she makes her way easily through that section that can cause problems this little pop move she swings cuts loose holds it and that's those dual texture holds which had about her left heel there on a area of the hold which is shiny which has very little friction it's enough to sort of rest on perhaps and sometimes the root setters make them stand on it without feeling particularly mean she cuts loose comes into the next section climbing well at the moment nice flow from her yeah she looks comfortable on the wall yeah it's always you can usually tell that an athlete starts to struggle it's something to do with the confidence in every move they make [Applause] and now perhaps starting to have to fight the knee bar is coming up if she can make it of course she doesn't know there's an ebar going a different way in here i think this is going to cause her problems because she's got to flip her body now all the way over to that next hole but she's finding an interesting resting position almost knee barring her own hand there on the black volume so a different beater than we've seen before but i have a feeling this is going to cause her some problems here as you can see doesn't know how to unlock this tries to reach underneath her onto the white hole really having to battle to work it out the route says it did say this section was complicated and she takes the fall yeah she made it difficult for herself [Music] it could have been smart though but uh i guess the intended me bar is better yeah we've seen the women use that nebo the other way around one of the heroes of innsbruck in the bouldering comp last week now on the lead walk he's come into the finals 25 of the time so he has had final experience he knows how to get through these semi-finals [Music] see rest where others haven't rest most athletes just moving quickly through this section but that's a hero choosing to use these crippy pinches and look at that shot three fingers on a hole showing you how small these are great footwork from here as he makes his way in nearing the head wall of this men's route i haven't seen many athletes get to this stage let's see what this top part is all about [Applause] that's a hero climbing very well so far now some big moves out on these dual textured holds crosses through with the right presses onto that wall no hold there of course now he's having to fight but he gets himself into a good position and just when you think it's all over the crimps bite back as masihiro he comes down good effort from him very early on in this competition that could be certainly a new high point for the men's company you never know that might be enough yeah it looks solid oh i'm pretty excited to see orianna yeah just to the left of masihiro that orian berton from france she's about to start as we stick with a massive hero is he untied always tricky to untie when you're pumped yeah knock tends to lock up quite hard he just takes a moment the athletes just preparing that is our women on the left and ochian you can just see walking into the wall to start her semi-finals still 16 years old i think i'm pretty sure she was certainly 16. a week ago now she's had a birthday one of the youngest athletes competing what world cup season she's having she's podium for the bouldering part of a very strong french team this year and we are of course just over the border from france we head to shamany next week the next round of the league world cup finds good resting it's always interesting tina with documents i find she has such a unique style to the way she climbs yeah it's great to watch i've actually never seen her on the lead climb but her bouldering is really impressive she seems to find beta where there is no beater makes that move look nice and easy she has a high heel there to rest she has a good pace must be difficult because you've got to climb quick enough so you don't get pumped but not too quickly you don't make a mistake yeah yeah i think speed is like a very individual what you prefer some people are better slow but most people prefer a bit faster pace i think but it's hard when it's uncomfortable okay i'm making her way about three moves before arrest she bumps up with the right cuts lucy she's going the opposite way as well at the moment let's see if she can make this be to work we've seen most of the women so far going the other way getting a big knee bar in in a minute [Music] okay just making a slightly awkward clip here and now she brings the right hand flips herself i think she's probably working out the knee bar which she is and now she takes a proper moment to rest so different beater there but made that one work that time yeah it looks like she had some power to waste and she was able to match the crimp [Music] upside down looking out towards the crowd crowds are allowed here in expect a cheering crowd in the finals here tonight people filtering into the arena during these semi-finals [Music] has taken a while on this rest but now she moves on out to the pinches very physical section with a high high heel [Applause] and although these crimps are big you've come from such a full-on section as you can see on that big red volume in the middle of the wall these suddenly don't appear too good and then you've got to get into the slopers which she's about to [Music] starting to work now as you can see this wonderful angle on the wall as she makes her way up towards the head wall the vertical part of the wall changes from overhanging on this section into vertical as she just drops that slope but that slope are proving to be the crux so far for the women [Applause] sebastian from germany [Music] he nears the crux of this route [Applause] shaking out with that left hand milking every moment he cuts loose makes the clip and he gets into this final big red pumpy section pinching on that dual texture hold so hard to do and then a big drop knee with the right in order to cross through crowd getting behind him now as he gets to the crimp that undid massey hero earlier slaps and misses down he comes great effort from him though will that be enough this is exciting for the men yeah it looks happy this is a good fight up in our final in our semi-finals here this morning enjoyed his climbing here this morning and on the left we had joined bermude japan team japan seeming to send different athletes to every single event they've got so much depth in their squad yeah this is a new name to me she makes the first clip it's your first competition let's see how she does on the big stage then she gets started no signs of nerves so far but she's just actually missing that right hand for a second is chalked up and you can see where the athletes have been slapping for it tina when you're climbing a route like this how important is chalk to working out where you're going on these routes you mean charles on the hull exactly because it can be a bit of a sort of hint perhaps what's to come when you see a lot of chalk on a section when you climb do you tend to ignore that or do you look at it and go oh perhaps that's the method yeah yeah i often use chalk as like a yeah once i was at a competition and the root center got injured when they put up the final so we didn't have chalk on the holes and it was awful [Laughter] it's really slippery yeah one of the route set his job is to prepare the holds for the athletes and they were here very early this morning in a cherry picker just brushing chalking up the hole to making sure it's perfect for these athletes because they are climbing hard 8b plus for the women they see possibly plus for the men [Applause] as you makes that move easy doesn't rest [Music] long [Music] do athletes generally want to clip when the clip's near to them or far away or is it just you just do whatever you can in that moment on those holes i think in there is generally a good rule but i feel like in the world cup there aren't that many positions to clip from so you just got a clip from the first and best yeah the reset is planning out the moments the clip as much as the roots themselves they can make clips difficult or easier and just takes a second to rest we know the knee bar is coming up she doesn't necessarily i would imagine she had spotted it during her observation period now's trying to struggle with a big move out right cuts loose and just can't make it stick yeah that that will look big for her [Applause] perhaps a height issue on that one slightly smaller but maybe i didn't notice her height ah maybe here oh no [Music] from japan he's 21. made it to the finals 50 of the time where he's competed so certainly an experienced athlete [Music] watch that pinky popping off the hold better for him she matches generally found that this is the only real moment for the men to rest that we've seen so far this little hole here these two crimps now he's got this catch move he's trying to do statically tina dynamically a big cut loose move to that or if they go statically which he chose to do just within his reach team japan they're watching on their athlete tina a lot of the coaches nowadays are filming these routes is that used after the competition sort of as an analysis yeah yeah for sure filming your own climbing and maybe others climb as well it's important finding a different rest i just said that there's not many places to rest in this route but he's found a good position that high right heel and the low left foot on a [Music] out of his arms you can see shaking his hand like that just to relieve that that does help one of the very climbing specific movements you see only in climbing do you see athletes flapping hands like that i think he's starting to look a little pump but he makes that big swing look easy physical moves here as he bumps and bumps again with the right hand [Applause] slight hesitation with the feet there that makes this look pretty straight forward actually that section but has he got anything left in the tank we know how big these moves are about to be watch for the pinch as well on that dual texture hold as he makes this move tries to go statically not quite managing to make that one stick [Applause] and we just lose [Music] shall we see a replay of that in a second working hard all day as one job i would not want you imagine short roping january as she makes it to the top we see a replay of futaba ito where it all went wrong for her as she just before the grey volumes the crosser in is a foot pop and you can see the shock on her face there she was not expecting that all of that works [Music] you see his stats on the left-hand side never made it into a lead finals fantastic boulder see what he can do on this route as he gets on the way making that initial clip from switzerland in front of her home crowd here today a football match on last night with switzerland playing and he had to drag people away from the tv screen [Music] so much sport going on this summer it's great to see all around no drama so far my left [Music] right let's look at this moment this is the women's first initial crux this pop right and a hand flip watch her left hand there it is the flip and the catch makes it look simple for her but then you've got to keep on moving no time to hesitate on those holds as he makes the similar kind of move that we've seen in the women's route that big bump out right and then the left catch [Music] as andreas that left foot that's what popped for futaba a couple of minutes ago no similar problems [Music] so to amaga pausing here we are seeing some interesting places to rest haven't seen this one before with that toe for sota amagasa a good resting position that tina do you think or is he just trying to find any moment it looks pretty relaxed [Music] [Applause] and andrea is getting high like andrea is mainly bouldering this is her [Applause] making great progress on this route as she makes it through that white volumey section that red dish though on the top left of your screen that's where we've lost the women who have got to this stage so far let's see as she deals with it goes for the slap look how happy she is you were set as a boulderer that kind of progress on a lead route that is going to make her very happy it's a lot of moves for a boulder i think she had a lot of fun on the route yeah some of the boulders of course it's a different style old ring as we lose so to amagasa how do you train for both because i know that when i'm in my bouldering form i have no endurance at all and then when i have a bit of endurance i tend to lose my power yeah i think that's a pretty common problem i i mainly train for a lead and i think being strong as a lead climber is important but i don't do so much of the typical bouldering competition style that some of the girls do for olympics and being able to do both disciplines of course in the olympics you gotta do all three speed lead and boulder yeah we just he's currently in first place with 37 plus of course we've got some big names still to come in this semi-final yanny gambre and stephan ogie sophie climbing last here this morning [Music] remember only eight athletes will make it through into our finals tonight so the athlete currently sitting in eighth place will be feeling very very nervous with so many to come [Music] from slovenia on the left-hand side nimrod marcus [Music] straight into the action nice and positive at the beginning [Music] there is nimrod marcus he's from israel always great to have the israeli team in the house a lot of fun as a team take their climbing very very seriously but always with a smile on their face cruising through this bottom section which as we know is hard but straight forward flipping the right hand there in a slightly awkward position in order to make that clip [Music] slightly bigger climbing very quickly through this section at the moment cuts loose stops look at those crimps that's the rest believe it or not all the rest designed by the root set as though we see some pretty creative resting moments with some of these athletes in a minute let's see how marcus manages that he's choosing to rest here with that right foot catches the swing nicely and a little a little mini power screen there i think this is the nimrod's first little i believe [Music] we are missing a couple of names as the athletes start to prepare themselves for the olympics a few coming to shamany and then by brian they'll be on a plane over to japan so athletes starting to just taper off with their competitions nimrod marcus what a move a double huge cut loose there has he got the energy now to make it through this section he does not big moves and you can just tell tina perhaps just giving everything he had in the tank there for that moment but it takes a lot of energy to do those kind of moves yeah yeah that swing looked uh harder than going [Music] physical one attack take a special commentary term there [Music] just trying to find some perches you can see that screw on being used as a pinch there [Applause] [Music] [Music] lana out of the most certainly the most physical section down low she just shakes up on this a fairly good crimp you can see from the angle of her body there just how overhanging this route is in this section [Music] route setters using the volumes to create a more of a 3d surface for the climbers if you're just joining us welcome to the semi-finals of the ifsc lead world cup here in villa semifinals this morning finals later in the evening and the speed finals last night as we watch lana now that's the dish that we've lost all the athletes can she make progress on this move crossing through with the right but she does looking back to make the clip this is a very difficult clip i think she's going to carry on frustration from her but that is possibly enough for the current provisional lead we'll see in a minute when the judges have made their decision [Music] whenever these athletes ages come up you realize how much of a future we've got in this sport so many young guns at the moment coming through and of course the olympics 2024 a lot of them will be aiming for that as we lose speed from the combined speed gets its own medals in 2024 basic root reading even though it's very difficult now as the climbing gets a little bit more three-dimensional you've got to think about the next moves they've got coming up [Music] is okay the announcer there saying funny bear is on the stage if you stick with zento he almost statics that movement there with the left hand yeah quite shouldery and powerful to do it that way [Music] it's proving to be certainly the section of the route where the athletes are getting tired out for the next part and this is a big cross through move with the right hand side swings out and then feet back on the wall to steady himself doesn't use that left arm now he does some of the athletes catching that during the movement [Music] so strong deciding not really to need it as he reaches up for the high clip [Music] yeah it looks very relaxed [Music] yeah zento really looking very good so far as he makes his way finally into the head wall this vertical section crossing through [Music] out with the left bumps and now he's having to work [Music] crosses through though if he can find this move which he doesn't quite seem like went off a cliff in terms of pump there looked totally in control and then finally that last physical section took it out of him funny bear you spent time on tour with her such a veteran tell me um well she's mainly bulgari but uh yeah tried hard to qualify for the olympics and then didn't really get the chance at the european championship because of the allocation ticket or something but yeah it's cool to see her that that she still continues with leads yesterday she had a really good round in one of the qualities and i love to see how she fights i think she's one of the best fighters in the on the circuit [Music] doesn't use a lot of that rest maybe she doesn't need it but she needs to clip yeah the clip now awkwardly down to her left you can see she has to clip that clip in order to progress if you go too fast past it and you don't clip it you won't count and you can see struggling to work out how to get back she cannot reach it from that knee bar position drama here from vanishing as she starts to shake a little bit she's having to down climb this move in order to clip it a mistake certainly for her but now she makes it [Music] tina must be frustrating yeah to do that having done them even having to reverse it yeah but you know that you can continue without it so you gotta choose to spend your energy fixing the mistake or just run for it funny burnout muscles standing out as she makes a big move up [Music] [Applause] vanity slips off that high crimp unlucky from her slight root reading error perhaps but remember this is on site these athletes don't know all the moves they haven't practiced this wall before this route before [Music] fanny desperate scenes as she looks back i think she knows what went wrong on that one because you said tina wonderful to see fantasy be out on a lead walk she was one of the many athletes enjoying the innsbruck climbing walk last week yeah having extra sessions between sessions [Music] [Applause] he had a good qualifying round yesterday one top for him yeah i don't think he talked maybe he didn't yeah no but head wall on both routes yeah for sure a really good performance yesterday madison yeah i'm excited to see what it can do here it's a very physical climber and the road looks hard [Music] yeah it just drops that left knee into this resting position perhaps looking slightly flustered at the moment he needs to recover a bit on this rest which he seems to be doing deciding for the more dynamic approach to that move we see some athletes static it out and it's always explosive with his power and now we start to accelerate just a little bit [Music] left bump now let's see how he makes his crosstroop move work he's got options for it he decides to go out with the left one hand momentarily the only point of contact on the wall [Applause] [Music] oh bump up and a slip for and he's frustrated we wanted to see him on the top part of the wall there [Music] yeah foot sleeves are they're so frustrating like usually they happen because you're positioned wrong or you're tired or but sometimes they also happen out of nowhere yeah it can be one of those things you have to you have to keep the pressure into your foot with some of these moves and sometimes just a moment hesitation you get distracted by something you momentarily release the weight from that foot and let's watch it there you can just see just a little a little slip yeah [Music] when you're trying to climb ac plus that to make all the difference kyra conde team usa now she's 25. [Music] [Applause] one of our olympians she'll be in tokyo in a couple of weeks using these world cups as part training part competition experience deciding to rest without the knee bar at the moment now she finds it but doesn't use it to rest interestingly she just uses it to progress and she also needs to clip yeah she's done what funny g bird did and just go past the clip can she reach down she does starts to swing on that quick draw [Music] and that was well read by kyra conde there no panic [Music] part of the route [Applause] tina you said wow there in that move what were you seeing yeah she decided to skip the crimp and go left to the bigger hole but the position she landed in was perfect for clippings so it looked pretty nice for her yeah her coaches will see that be happy pleased she heads probably her final competition before the olympics we'll see if she arrives in shamany yeah that's it the big left slap out just doesn't make it work for her but good effort from kara kombi that is dimitri fakarianov from team russia on the right hand side [Music] just over halfway through this semi-final now plenty of names plenty of climbing to come time is 11am central european time at the moment [Music] gets through the first part of this route unscathed starting to struggle slightly here the root setters did think we'd lose some athletes early on because it's just so [Music] powerful to traverse over to the right to that big volume you can see the little tiny footholds on the right hand side of the screen that's what they'll stand on as they make their way to the right i'll make the clip then consider a rest [Music] those yellow braces by the way you see on the athletes dimitri with it on his left hand she makes that boost some of the athletes keep it around their ankles that's just to prove that you've had a negative kobe test before you come into the arena just so everyone knows so if you're wondering what that is that's what it is negative overtest proof on his wrist tina you in fact came straight from a cobra test in order to come and join me here today things are strict as they should be yeah they are it requires a bit more logistics and planning competing now with all the testing and but it's nice that we can do the comps again that seems to be the general consensus of most people i've talked about which is just everyone is happy to be back yeah they can take a few swabs up the nose in order to do that yeah dimitri cutting loose in a big move as he gets the quick draw swinging that stops it with his leg in order to make the clip one of the clues the route setters lead and you can see on the left there is a gentleman cleaning the women's route there's a slight pause about halfway through where they clean it for the next set of athletes because of chalk sweat dust all that gets in the hole [Music] tina we see these athletes coming through into the semi-finals an order that they qualify from so the people who qualified in first place they'll climb last yeah is there any advantage to climbing last or does it actually mean you get to climb on holes that been used by 26 athletes and it's harder um i guess holes do get greasy and but it's definitely a bigger problem in qualities where there are more athletes than in semis i think there's more pressure being last in semis and you usually have a feeling about about how high you gotta get yeah you can always tell how long the athlete's been on the wall we saw a big move for dimitri fakarian over there he hadn't clipped it took an enormous lob off our camera screen crowds are back crowds don't have to wear masks in the venue as long as they have that negative covert test and they can prove it it's the way the swiss authorities are dealing with this in tonight's this morning's semi-final and final diminished faculty great effort from him yeah yeah good fight it's good to see him back on the in the world cup he did really well some years ago and then he kind of disappeared and came back now same with dinara that we will see later [Music] so that is our current leaderboard the top at the moment of that qualification place 33 plus is 33 is the score to beat so far that score worked out on the holds they've got to each hold is numbered and the judges watching with eagle eyes to make sure that the athletes are using those holds correctly and they score it properly and you can see those are the athletes we have to come still [Music] thirteen athletes still to come out here on to our stage yanny gareth will be climbing last and look at that task top four of athletes is our men's current leaderboard expect that to change though as more athletes join us on the stage matthew's posture will be out next from team austria stefano grisolfi climbing glasses alex magus and sasha layman after that sasha layman especially put in a great performance yesterday really enjoyed climbing in front of his home crowd i know he loves climbing in switzerland yeah yeah he took the goal the last world cup here can he defend that world cup titles yeah it would be great to see it certainly but i have a feeling a few other athletes will have something to say about that it's our crowd watch on [Music] there's the root setter just cleaning the root he's using the quick drawers to pull through a bit tough to try to get the root setters to climb a b plus in trainers let's see some highlights of what we've watched already nimrod marcus earlier on in our competition [Music] and it's coolman we're expecting a fight from him unlucky to slip down low so the women's route has been cleaned as the route setter comes down of course he didn't need to clean the section the athletes haven't got to yet and currently we've only seen three quarters of this route sent for the women if you're at home you have a few minutes in order to breathe get yourself a little snack my name is matt groom and i'm in the commentary box with tina from team norway tina what's the rest of your season looking like after after villas um i'll go to shamany later today and train there for a week or so before the world cup and then go to brienzon for the world cup and then i'll be two weeks in twos work on my endurance and then go back to innsbruck for a training camp back home for nationals back down to central europe for another training camp somewhere maybe i was thinking maybe germany they say germany has some good training facilities now and then the ljubljana world cup and world champs in moscow it's certainly a packed season at bosco world champs at the very end we do have a slight break after brienne's song before we head to slovenia as you mentioned say you say east is a very famous sport climbing crag rock climbing and i have a feeling a lot of athletes are going to be making that stop i'll certainly be there after the competition yeah i think this is the first the season in a long time that there's a long break so it makes sense to go outdoors and have a holiday and take a break from the the training routine and yeah it's really close to the brian zone so it makes sense to stop there eva maria hamilla back on the women's route tina have you got any projects and say use you know it's another secret what are you working i'm not sure i haven't been there in a long time and i just want to climb and get pumped and fight so eva on the newly cleaned women's [Music] route [Music] so far so good from her nice flowy in control climbing [Music] i always like it when the root centers different colors on the wall just allows you to just to see the various sections there's a little flick and a catch very well so far taking a moment longer perhaps than other athletes we've seen on this moment which is wise because the next section is little moves to the right we've lost a few here either drop knee to get into position shaking out between almost every move now she battles the pump [Music] all right let's keep an eye on this clip because we've seen most people clip it down low fantasy bet hesitating clara condi clipping very high for this next section let's see what eva manages to do with this she's going feet first through this first part [Music] and now reversing it back she's looking at the clip hasn't decided to yet big rope burn on her leg there yeah what can happen if you get your leg the wrong side of the rope and take a fall now she's going to have this difficulty as well which is slightly past the quick draw yeah she's she's looking a bit stressed but now she's calmed down again you can see her brain here working out is it better to down climb back to the quickdraw or carry on we know it's possible to carry on but she doesn't know that yet lots of chalk lots of resting up she's deciding to move on still resting now up with the right and there's the clip slight fumble which made it work and i think you're right there was a little moment of panic there before she just calmed herself down [Music] in the right heel doesn't make the clip tried but just run out in that moment [Music] must make the clip remember takes a quick draw again makes it stick this time she goes back to her resting position i'm sure that's a moment that every climber understands that clip bumble and what horrible feeling that [Music] into the slopper that she drops i think she'll be annoyed without those clips she made it work nicely but just didn't quite seem comfortable with it yeah it takes a lot of energy to fumble on the clip posh now one of austrian's bright young stars that men's route we had a slight pause while we cleaned it it's now ready to go [Music] so far on that first section [Music] eyeing up the next section gets through this first part i've really seen any athletes drop it at that point and he's deciding to go out with a clip drops right takes in the rope quickly you do want slack from the b layers so you don't get caught by the rope but not too much he's still fairly close to the ground one of the certainly some more stressful jobs is being one of those villas [Music] let's see what his pinch power is like as he makes his way into this next part of the route characterized by those blue volumes those blue holds [Music] big swing we love that move every time it happens me and tina have a little smile as we watch it big cross through up to the left coming off about halfway up our route there that is [Music] and part of this big slovenian team that have come out here today and when you're in a team with the likes of yanny gambra thomas scoffed to name a few you have a lot of uh lucha back of it i mean the depth in that slovenian squad is unbelievable and it must help them having that experience yeah i think so and i think they also train a lot together because it's such a small country and it seems like they have a good team spirit yeah absolutely they're like a unit those guys moving around europe like a giant extended family [Music] crossing through looking good so far of course we know that this next section can really prove to be very difficult to work out for these women athletes these big white volumes that will appear in a second [Music] [Applause] [Music] very very thin crimp yeah i think she can quite make that work tina what happened there she tried to put the heel but the the crimp is so narrow and so close to the like the wall so there's no space for the hill and i guess she she realized it and then tried to change and flipped i think yeah i think a root reading error there a little bit but and he's athletes using everything i mean when we watch a replay at this moment you see that hill just not fitting on with the hand losing it grabbing a rope touching it and down she comes yeah one of those moves i would imagine seemed like a really good idea up until the moment where she did it and you're suddenly here hooking your own fingers and realizing you're in trouble alberto gina lopez from spain one of the olympians i interviewed him yesterday very excited to be competing in a couple of weeks popular man on tour and that's why he's such an exciting climber to watch [Music] he makes a clip from that position a lot of people coming over first now swings over into this rest [Music] temperature nice and cool in the stadium perfect conditions as he makes the slap [Music] work he's going to want to flick that left hand underneath the rope which he does just catching it can be a bit awkward sometimes oh loses the toe for a second there switches back to the heel instead that's gonna has got his heart rate going next to him on the women's route as alberto cuts loose easily controls the swing it looks like that moment hasn't put him off too much [Music] yeah he looks relaxed [Music] alberto one of those climbers he certainly climbs better when he is in a sort of chilled frame of mind yeah [Applause] making easy work of this blue section let's make some progress on this head wall shall we we want to see the top of this route as he bumps out pinching that dual textured surface [Music] this is where we've been losing everyone but he makes it stick and now he's standing with a high heel look into the crims alberto ginas lopez will jump to the top on this one on the leaderboard at the moment as he makes the clip not long to go now a few holds remaining up to these banana-shaped holds the first battling we've seen get to this section of the route as a crowd get behind him ah slip at the top he just took a moment to chalk up he's blowing his hand it looked like the excess chalk of his hand when he slipped sure we'll see that again but that will get him to the top of our current leaderboard will it be enough [Music] we switch our attention to vita lucan [Music] 20 years old from slovenia 32 world cups already but no medals should we wanted to add a lead medal she finds anima but it just slips out they're not quite working for her as we see some of the other women athletes more about a knee press than a knee bar yeah yeah i'm surprised she doesn't use it like most of the girls make it look really good [Music] but she also has a knee injury you see how much work is required from the shoulders to make that stick as she gets this sort of slightly complicated hand sequence here [Music] multiple flips required in order to get up to that crimp with the right hand ideally [Music] she does shake out before she gets it [Applause] [Music] heading into this final section but this is the dish of doom let's see if she can make it work she gets it [Music] having to fight for the next one but she does get onto the head wall victor lucan will jump to the top of our leaderboard as she goes out right she's still on the wall what's an effort from her she entered the volumes and just tried to make a hole out of nothing there on the corner yeah yeah the hole was a bit higher than where she went [Music] [Applause] [Music] that could be enough for a finals place but we have some big names coming up including the next woman out in the stage who is juliet of france currently in action [Music] yoshida sorry yoshida there he is 17. looking for his first finals place this initial stage he bumps the left hand up [Music] there is in the audience [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] feet flying out from the wall as he finds his split position in order to rest again those dual texture holes just catching the light you do not want to be standing on those sections if you do be aware that at any second a slip might occur in his right foot having to use it in order to make that rest work [Music] although i think there's a little bit of friction there for him but slipping onto the yeah you can see there's a little split in that hole [Music] not 100 there at the moment i'd say as he comes into this rest [Music] julius chandler in action next to him as we stick with satoni he's looking to mate there is juliet [Music] a tow hook in she's on the bottom third of this route at the moment before the traverse right so tony goes right into the bump makes that work he's coming in to one of the hardest parts of this route in a minute will he have enough in the tank to get this done is he left but presses up julius charlie finding every moment to rest [Music] very experienced rock climber as well as competition climber [Applause] [Music] [Applause] stone jumps up with the right makes it stick and now he's gonna look he looks at that left hold uses it briefly but sticks with the match instead julia channel d will she find this knee bar let's have a look certainly spotting it fairly early on there yeah [Music] keeping her arms nice and straight that's what you want you don't want to be climbing with your arms bent takes up more energy more muscles straight arms and you can see her resting and moving like that [Music] we lose turn it from the wall as he comes down near the top [Music] julia she's 25. she is in the olympic games so this will be one of her final competitions and she want to finish on a bang to give herself some confidence for tokyo climbing through that section quicker than we've seen other athletes who just take a while to work it out [Applause] presses out though easily now this is the section where we lost there's a screw-on on the right and she just drops [Music] looks fairly blind that move hard to tell that those holes are there yeah i agree we're just both looking up see if there's any tick marks and there is a bit of chalk on the wall showing where the hold is but no obvious tick mark so it's something that you'd have to read from the ground and remember when you get up there where they are yeah and the fact that vita lucan slapped up missed it entirely i think shows that it is quite difficult to see slovenia we're getting near the end of our semi-finals now thank you for sticking with us it's always fascinating to watch these 26 athletes choosing their way through these routes [Music] [Music] the clip early on his second quick draw of the route didn't quite make it work in finals but semis was really impressive yeah you'll take confidence in that this semi-finals a little cut loose very near the bolt there as he kicks at the quick draw to see a replay of that at some point see how close he got if he might touch you're not meant to touch those bolts there might be an appeal we'll see that is salome obroma from france she's three quick draws into her semi-final route has made finals before [Music] [Music] luca he's taking his time through this bottom section [Music] both athletes about the same height actually on the wall bottom third luca just taking his time through this bottom section [Music] but a big move outright to catch it salome crossing through this is where we saw a heel hook which we know doesn't work she doesn't get tricked by it though but cutting loose there's luca huge spin almost facing back towards a crowd and loses the foot [Music] [Applause] [Music] making the clip low down i think that's probably the preferred beater for that clip although we do know that it works going higher seems to have spotted the knee bar but not using it yet uncomfortable not the best rest yeah yeah often you need a lot of body tension to be in a knee bar and sometimes it's better to just hang from your fingers like salome is doing now yeah foot almost watched between two volumes there it's pressing both sides of her foot into the wall just trying to take off the pressure on arms she rests for a long time here shaking out she's got two minutes 39 lots of time tow hook in order to get into this crimpy part of the route which serves as an intermediate section really before the dish of doom [Music] salome making good progress as she comes up into this slightly complicated hand swap section moves straight through it with no problem [Music] great performance so far now you can see she grabs the rope with her teeth and she's starting she just misses that screw-on but doesn't need it yeah i think it might be just to block the hole [Music] she looks solid will she hit the screw on goes up but in the same place as julia shannon the just can't quite stick it yeah she was out with an injury for a few years it's nice to see her back fighting for spots in finals [Music] chilling out as she waits to see if she's made finals [Music] that is shawn bailey from the usa [Music] and a very obvious style sean bailey when he climbs until it's him as a way of moving that's very unique [Music] [Applause] [Music] sean bailey choosing not to rest there or maybe thinking about it now as he gets he's looking for a jump here remember he is a dual texture with his right foot sometimes better just to go for the jump and just burn a little bit of energy instead of trying to work out every nuance of the moves as he looks up finding a nice resting position there but now he's got this crimpy section we go from burly big moves into crimpy [Music] pinches [Music] [Applause] [Music] sean bailey now he's made that little pop to the left look good up he comes into the pinches now i call it dynamic flow from sean bailey he's quite poppy with his movements and yet looks effortless as he comes into the last section of this route now looking for the big out right gets it but look hardly any feet involved there at all it's just smearing on the wall so [Music] you see using the coping on the wall which is going to be slippery with that metal now he's got some footholds because he looks to bump up to the crimp makes it stick from sean bailey heal in as he nears this last section of the route just the banana holds to come bumping the heel crosses through the right tiptoeing his fingers into it tiptoeing his feet what a battle from sean bailey and just misses the cross through there [Applause] exciting to watch yeah [Music] yeah that part looks really hard early slip there from russia's dinar [Music] sorry nova ah early on yeah that was uh she couldn't quite recover from that initial hesitation just looked up at what could have been she qualified in a fantastic position and she will be just annoyed at herself for falling off that early but this room's so so difficult there it is that's the dish of doom in the middle and that's our men's lead semi-finalist so far alberto gina's lopez 40 plus points followed by sean bailey mashihiro shiguchi in third as we scan down the rest of our names remember only eight athletes will make it through eight athletes to climb so everything can change on our leaderboard as we have a look at the women's provisional peter lucan leading the way with 35 plus julia channel d with 35 salome oklahoma who we just saw climb 34. coming in after that i think it's strange that julia and sal omega different score i think they will get the same yeah the judge is having to make a decision on whether they've used the hole to get a plus sometimes these scores do change after the competition as appeals come through yeah so don't necessarily take our final leaderboard as gospel it might change fuji from japan he was in action in innsbruck in the bouldering finals last week and that is alexander todd [Music] competing here on a big stage making semi-finals and immediately getting started and she means business here this morning coming up to 11 30 central european time seven athletes to go so far to finish off our semi-finals the finals taking place tonight on the ifsc channel cuckoo fuji walks his feet on the volumes popping a cut loose body tension is something that we kind of throw around what does body tension actually mean is it just pure core that's a good question well it's more about just the core it's like the whole body like in toeics you need a lot of tension in order to stay on the wall [Music] we see the body the athlete's using his body tension throughout these walls especially when he gets overhanging and trying to keep their hips in keep everything still and you see something like coca fuji when he makes a dynamic move you can just control the swing alexandra and she comes into the slightly confusing part of the route the left to right yeah and when it's deep it requires a lot of tension in order to stay with the feet on the wall like if you lose them it's often because you don't have enough tension alexander making the swing out we see the body tension there she somehow catches that left crimp explosive style from her just about to enter the rest of fuji meanwhile using that body change we talked about to stop that swing backwards and looking very in control at the moment you see that a big red volume the athletes will have to step on soon on the top of your screen alexandra covered in chalk giving it everything [Applause] [Music] now with the right hand holds it still with the toe locked in which we'll have to release in a minute [Music] they're just working it slightly higher on that big white volume left hand out then releases the toe and you can see the immediate swing that that causes [Music] alexander in her first world cup final semi-finals climbing strong here reaches out to the left into the dish of doom as she looks up now to this blind move [Applause] she's gonna go out right around that volume and you can see as the camera that's the black hole on the triangular section of the volume she's gonna have to do a big pop out right and sticks it crosses through the left fingertips on the hold and finally we lose a fantastic performance for her getting her into the top eight for sure yeah that was impressive she looked pretty desperate on the traverse to the right before the knee bar still managed to get this high and get a high point just congratulations for your first uh workout see where he lost it again using that coping with the right and it's the coping that made him slip there using the little bit of metal there are no other footholds that's what caused the pop a little slip on the metal the athletes are allowed to use that and he tried dominance in white from slovenia comes onto the stage he'd love to make a finals here he looks in very good shape for this season as he just takes a moment to remind himself of the route it has been quite a while since he had his observation time do you know how much chat goes on backstage in this semi-finals between the athletes do they talk to each other about the route or is it all a bit secretive because they're competing now most people talk about it i guess we're all a bit like uh uncertain about moves so it's nice to discuss with others and make sure you have the the right beta come and scoff it from no stranger to winning these competitions of course and he'd love to podium tonight [Music] i'm not sure what that was it wasn't really a fumble it was just a positioning perhaps [Applause] [Music] exactly lose briefly and that's laura [Music] yeah we know there are some big moves in this women's route so it'll be interesting to see how she deals with those sections dominance [Music] on these big ball-like volumes laura on the left dominic on the right both athletes in the bottom section of the wall climbing for a couple of minutes now just about a minute done coming up on the clock lara through that left hand there in that almost a crack feature but not quite no jams here today sadly [Music] i did look at that first of all i think maybe that's a sort [Music] hesitating a little bit on this move she chooses to do it very statically perhaps thinking better of it now though if she's halfway through it is a long way to reach an aesthetic move danger for laura but she makes it work with a pop eventually just changing the way she did it mid move she's so good at those right heel hooks it finds it's so easy to rest in those positions dominant as well heel hooking the ability to rest is important isn't it you have all the strength in the world but if yeah if you get too pumped that's over yeah yeah every little rest is nice but usually the rest in the world cup aren't so good so there's no reason to stay long yeah we don't want to watch athletes hanging in roots [Music] those micro shakes that tina was talking about every opportunity to rest is important stretching out flower to reach that right meanwhile domin is on the pinch part of this route little again a little micro shake keep an eye that is the silver coping on the wall that did the cooker of fuji and we lose domin just before the head wall laura then bumping out right pressing with that left knee finding the crimp [Music] tina you said she was a fairly short climber and that knee bar it'll be interesting to see if that proves difficult for her because obviously the length of your leg is important but i think it's i think it's enough she should be able to make it work yeah and she also climbs a lot outside i i feel like rock climbers find knee bars more comfortable yeah lara she's a lot of them on her way she's got 9b as well i'm being outside climbing grade one of the hardest only nineveh plus or 9c above that so lara with some serious outdoor pedigree she rests for a little bit but now starting to move two minutes 25 o'clock she's got lots of time but i think the pump is starting to get to her she fights her way through [Music] here [Music] now using it for heal but that right hand she's going to want to move up great reading from laura that [Music] looks down [Music] the time presumably we see the women's lead semi-final provisional positions on the right apparently 11 so she'll need to get higher in order to break into that top eight but she's moving up now in ninth couple more holds and she will be in the finals provisionally into the dish lara one of those climbs doesn't seem to fall but now she looks like she could be in trouble but no still on the wall drop knee with the right in order to statically reach up around the corner lara into a finals position now in fifth currently and now we see a new feature this which is holding onto the right hand has almost no texture to it the root center told me to describe it as an ice cream because it's so slippery and it's shape of course [Applause] laura highest jumping into the lead as we see the top half of this route for the first time the ice cream hold for the right foot and now a press and i know that lara will find a moment to perhaps rest it [Applause] crosses up and through there's the top of our wall will we see our first women's top dual texture again at the top you've got to be careful where you stand trying to find anything on these volumes [Applause] into the undercling would she get now stepping through to the final slope as louder will certainly jumps for the slopers and comes down currently in first position you would think that's enough for the finals yeah yeah that was solid and that is how guaranteed in with only five athletes to go what a performance i said i said with larry she builds herself into these roots she starts off fairly slow and you think she might be in trouble yeah and by the end of it she's still on the wall yeah paul gent [Music] [Applause] [Music] he made it through while we watch laura and now into heel hooks for the blue pinches deciding to make that clip through his left but watch this because a lot of athletes have done this what's the left-hand move he has to do has to go under the quick-drawn round [Applause] [Music] cutting loose on the pinches and crossing through with the left and bumping up [Music] again using the thumb to press against the volume [Music] closing off the crimp on the left hand with the thumb wrapped over the top as he needs this hard move he makes it stick now we'll look for the clip before traversing out left [Music] big bump though and a power screen to make it stick [Applause] and started to shake now no feat for this next section and he takes the fall you'll be pleased with that one paul gent from it's gonna france in his home country next week in shamany for the lead world cup will there be an audience in chamonix it is ticketed okay so yeah we're expecting an audience in shamany to my knowledge anyway my hometown so i get to sleep in my own bed before coming to the competition mia crampol another olympian i think right to the very end for her last slovenian place olympic ticket talked to her yesterday she seems very relaxed at the moment in her final stage of preparation for the olympics and in good shape [Music] just lay backing this section when you keep your body on one side of the whole arm straight like that [Music] welcome to the semi-finals if you're joining us we're nearing the end now five athletes still to go all battling for the provisional top eight to make it through into the finals you can see the chalk from the other athletes coming before just squatting down on that left leg in order to rest [Music] [Applause] [Music] great climbing so proud for mia crumple as she finds a different position to rest in to make this clip that's interesting resting as you clip is a good tactic isn't it because you have to pause anyway you might as well just yeah rest as well yeah [Music] [Music] will that pay in this next physical section though she hasn't really stopped that brief pause we chatted about with the with the quick draw but apart from that yeah she didn't really stop at the rest at all [Music] perhaps not seeing it perhaps feeling fresh yeah [Music] near cramped at the moment though looking in good shape as she comes up this is the right hand she gets her feet almost horizontal that body position using the sloper now [Music] flicks the feet around to the left before she'll make this clip just brushing the quick draw from his if she carries on though she's going to have to come back for that quick draw [Music] looking for a very insecure heel in order to make this clip work still going higher onto the crimp now she's going to have to reach down really awkward clipping position trying to find a heel crosses through trying to bring the right hand down and takes a big big ball [Music] just going slightly too far in the quick draw i think the position was before the cross route [Music] [Applause] from slovenia [Music] fifth position from that qualifying round we didn't see many tops yesterday we saw a few standard of these athletes at the moment really next level is every year progression in our sport we see but what a fight from him and he just can't get back onto the wall he saw his legs kicking in the air in desperation as he tried to haul himself back in [Music] frustration for martin that's not gonna be enough for the finals for him a mistake i think natalia grossman on the bottom left of your screen there she's just come out [Music] of course multiple gold medals this year already in the bouldering competitions yeah very impressive missed out in the final innings see how she does today in these slightly cooler conditions [Music] [Music] i'm really enjoying this season one of the breakout seasons for her in terms of competition climbing yeah she's definitely a new name on the circuit in both lead and boulder it seems like [Music] yeah new name but [Music] already making her mark on the ifsc competitions as her teammate colin duffy an olympian he's 17. he's been fairly quiet this world cup season so far but never count him out i mean he's qualified in full for this semi-final [Music] the two american athletes climb together [Music] natalia making the pop look very easy for her and again that high here we're seeing all the women use well in duffy just using the left foot there to press against the wall in order to steady that move natalia hesitating slightly but what a big splits move to press into these slopes [Music] colin duffy with the shoulder he moves here before the rest that's coming up natalia grossman on the left crosses into the crimp no real thumb you can see her fighting for the thumb there but hard to get it colin duffy enters the rest italian grossman swing momentum in order to make that move [Music] up into the pitch and see if she clips early or carries on feet first for her [Music] so far the first athletes have struggled slightly with this clip [Music] some people start to hesitate here they realize they've gone past the clipper natalia i think she realizes she can clip it from above when she makes this next move colin duffy cuts loose meanwhile on the right [Music] sally just getting the swing in that quick draw in order to bring it closer to her advanced competition tactics there these quick draws extended here usually to stop some rope drag or to make a clip easy route set is thinking about every aspect of these routes natalia makes another clip calling definitely meanwhile has quietly been making his way up this route and he's nearing the top head wall section where we've seen a few athletes lose themselves on this next move natalya cuts loose colin cuts loose [Music] natalya choosing to rest on that lay back as colin swings out no footholds from now on as he's gonna cross in the right hand makes it stick just hesitate dropping back down slaps doesn't quite make it for colin duffy natalie grossman though she's still on clearing the crux of her the crutch been the most difficult moves [Music] crossing through teeth gritting as she pinches the volume up with the left [Applause] [Music] she's gonna have to pop for this she does and misses it we saw lara go statically to that hold an incredible show of strength from her tally grossman though should be pleased about that so three athletes to go [Music] uchika rakovitz abe and yanya ganbet for the women sasha lehmann alexander alex magos and stefano gisolfi for the men some big stars still to come [Music] alberto ginas lopez currently leading the way with 40 plus followed by sean bailey and massimo gucci [Music] but only eight athletes will make it through so what you're seeing on screen now they sadly won't come through but that man sasha lehmann apparently hasn't scored some points but he's about to get something on the board women's lead temple finals laura laura regora heading the way alexandre portkova vita lucan nia campbell julia our top eight at the moment but three athletes to come bottom three athletes haven't climbed yet that's why they haven't got a score sasha layman's arm there is sacha laymen heartbreakingly close to the olympics for him and he's having a fantastic season so far certainly an athlete we'd expect to be knocking on the door of the finals [Music] i always think sasha gets better after a cut loose move and he's had a few now so he should be very relaxed as lucha on the left-hand side she gets a high heel [Music] swinging around it's not one of the hardest positions or sections of the route but she doesn't want to blow it and now she's through safely swinging his feet round and into the crimps as sasha layman finds the rest on the men's street [Music] sasha going for the little pop in the hand flip which he gets not even looking at his left hand as he brings it through [Music] just closing off that crimp decides to kick early [Music] a heel hook knee bar interesting we've seen most athletes with toe that she's into the heel i guess whatever fits [Music] [Applause] [Music] sasha works as the crowd get behind their hometown hero every move being cheered on but he is having to battle here a little bit slapping out just getting it closing it off and this next move will be a big one for sasha as he makes the clip early luchka though is cruising through this bottom slight hesitation there with the right hand makes it stick sasha into the head wars he looks from a big pot with no hesitation you could tell he was getting tired he had to get it done quickly little wave to the audience lucha suddenly starting to fight as she cuts loose gets the toe on [Music] body's screaming at her to stop but she's not going to keep on pressing upwards that black hole we reckon is just blocking the hole to make it slightly worse so it's not a screw [Music] [Applause] oh wow huge split rest there amazing flexibility goes dynamically and makes it stick [Music] [Applause] into the ice cream hold and that's a great angle to see how small it is there is a small gap behind it that's what the athletes get their fingers into she makes the match you can see no texture there and that pinches on is more of a press than a pinch needs to make that clip at some point we should worry about that in a minute almost sitting on the hole as you reach down to flip it's a quick draw [Music] a great little position there high up on the wall almost sitting out with the left now using the body attention to come in doesn't make it stick a great performance from lucha [Applause] alex magos on the wall has climbed 9c in his time let's see what he makes of this semi-finals route climbing quickly to the bottom part of this route [Music] the athlete's perspective of these climbs he makes that clip around his arm and you'll be able to see he can release it easily which he does there getting a high high high heel in order to press [Music] a huge split smooth athletes having to work flexibility as much as strength yeah [Music] it's catching the slap [Music] there he is the heel hook before entering this section finding a good moment to rest here and he'll need it because we know how draining this next part of the route is [Applause] the little bump here's the big right [Music] briefly in order to make the foot swap [Music] alex climbing quickly at the moment only really a minute gone at the moment he's near the top of the route already alex magos motoring through this section now because he needs the top of the wall swings out left makes it stick easily and now the last foothold his left foot on as he brings it right through from now on it's only ah alex interesting to go straight up with the right foot we see most athletes padding across that volume alex has not really stopped yet up to the crimp just drops it flaps to the crowd i'll put alex in provisional third place with that performance as we watch she's 18 qualified in second place for this semi-final an ultimate athlete out for the women and another new name to me let's see what she does with this route [Music] very japanese style of climbing those high heel hooks finding every moment to rest deciding to rest slightly below the knee bar she crosses through will she find it now or decide to move through looks like she's just going on although now she's in the position of the knee but there she locks it in [Music] using that knee bar all the way through in order to get these moves and then the high heel into the slopper [Music] probably one of those ones you can overthink it's simpler than it looks left hand down low and then the big right bump up she reads it very well getting herself in the right position up easily into the reach currently in 15 that position will change as she rises up this route through the rankings as well now in 13. this is the pop or a static depending on how you do it she pops makes it stick left hand through in a moment really climbing very well nearing the top part of this roof just a slight slip to the left [Applause] thanks to the crowd stephanie selfie our final nail actually out on the lead wall always one of the favorites and in good form at the moment came second in innsbruck last week [Music] big moves early on for stepping up [Music] never really gets flustered to stefano always i should say everything you expected it to be today i think i have the woman's roots look really nice i'll be psyched to climb it myself men's look really hard yeah we knew it would be physical and it has been with no top so far yeah i think it's um some some of the guys make the this mid sequence look very easy and others struggle a lot and fall [Music] qualifying in first place for this final she was in the lead finals last night but knocked out in the first round but a statement of intent for the olympics for her our last two athletes on the wall the last two you can make a bid for the finals stefano following alex's start climbing very quickly we're now starting to hesitate makes the catch on the left [Music] comes down deciding not to clip yet he's getting to the end of his tether but now he's gonna have to clip and this could be awkward for him it's very stretched out you can see trying to find a tow hook in order to make the clip the sides against it goes with the right stephanie gaselfi high up in the head wall but no top for the man [Music] [Applause] [Music] we haven't seen one yet according to our scores that's not enough for us stephanie selfie to make it into the finals we just watched him what can yanya do as she comes out into the slopers now big cut loose and a swing it's starting to rain here in villas the wall of course very overhanging so it shouldn't really affect it but you might bring an element of humidity into this final [Music] climbing well at the moment she's so good at balancing speed when she climbs yeah seems like she can time it down to the last 10 seconds in a route it's not time to spare taking this moment to rest we know there's really two rested as the one she's currently in and then there's the neva arrest coming up if she decides to use [Music] [Music] resting chalking up looks like she's not going to use this knee bar deciding instead with that lower heel but there's the knee yeah is she going to use it she doesn't she's rested enough i think heel hooks that hold [Music] yeah she looks relaxed [Music] [Music] wow [Music] shakes up and reaches into that pinch on the volume will we see a final top in the women's semi-final it would be nice to get a clip of the chains and you're almost brushing that hole there she comes into it into that dish you saw so many athletes lose now this is the tricky little pop she sets herself up makes it look easy [Music] january then she's in the vertical section of this wall ice cream hold coming up gets the fingers behind it and into this pressy part good little rest there if you can make it work with that high left foot [Applause] [Music] stretching that arm down and pressing up with the right yandy she's got a minute 45 o'clock so plenty of time in order to do this and she'd love it [Applause] and you're just sitting down now this is the move we saw lucha on [Music] crossing through finding every moment to rest as she looks down a little smile on her face there just working it out the root center told me this this section is very complicated it's hard to read yeah it's a lot of the dual tech on the volume yeah now we saw lara getting very very close to the top she just missed the slap into the top two slopers yanya as the rain falls making her way ever upwards towards those chains will we see a top [Applause] mc urging her on for the jump here it is pop and she holds it yanya garbrandt will top this route out as she makes the clip the oh hesitates the clip for a second having to fight a little bit finally gets it done yanya gombrep our final athlete out this morning this afternoon makes it done she will move into the finals tina what a competition great roots and a real battle yeah yeah you had to get really high on both routes i guess to make finals so that is our men's finalists alberto ginas lopez alex magos sebastian we'll be in our finals later on this evening set a reminder for that live on youtube on the livestream some surprises along the way perhaps a few athletes missing out tough tough route we're back tonight with the finals and for the women let's have a look at our finalists for tonight yanny gambre leads the way followed by laura roger luchka rakovic alexander tatkova momoko abe vita lucan and mia into our finals great performances from them commiserations to everyone else but what performances all round [Music] as we look down the athletes who came close but not quite close enough for that finals place so tina thank you so much for joining me in the commentary booth thanks for having me it's great to have you and we will be back this evening for the finals looking forward to having you have a lovely afternoon and we'll see you soon [Music] [Applause] so [Music] [Music] so you

Channel: International Federation of Sport Climbing

Views: 123,767

Rating: 4.9383192 out of 5

Keywords: Sport, Climbing, Sport Climbing, Climb, Rock Climbing, Climbing Gym, IFSC, Competition Climbing, Lead Climbing, IFSC Lead World Cup, Villars, Switzerland, Swiss Alpine Club, Lead World Cup Villars, Villars Lead, IFSC Villars, IFSC World Cup

Id: Fkwpnt_EKqc

Length: 148min 20sec (8900 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 03 2021