2019 IFSC Europe Climbing Championships - Lead Semi Finals

[Music] [Music] you a very good morning welcome back to Scotland welcome back to the Rafa arena we are live for the lead semi final we had a spectacular speed finals last night but now it's time for the regulation 26 men and 26 women to get down to just 8 for this afternoon's final and gas yesterday qualifying hard round but quite quite a few interesting things well as women's day for sure the little jump early doors putting by the roots Tessa's that was a little bit cheeky some would say but 14 people fell on that move and luckily some of them actually went through to the semi-final it wasn't the be-all and end-all of their competition here at the weekend so yeah but a little bit cheeky I thought yeah absolutely root set is always asking interesting questions of the climbers and Accra joven oh great to see her back really big opportunity for her to take away the European champions she was the only one to top either of the routes yesterday yeah I mean it's it's really good see you back in the game she's been carrying and struggling injuries with injuries for quite a while now but she looked really really good this weekend and I'm sure she's looking forward to a good chance to take away this title continuing the theme in the women's we never seem to be surprised these days but for how strong and how young some of the climbers are 15 year old Luce Duarte we've seen her quite a lot of her in the i4c season this year looked awesome all the way through the qualification yeah she looked at she looks really a very quality climber and we've also got two sixteen year olds in there as well so quite a young field coming through in this Europeans it's a great opportunity for them to probably climb in this sort of international event where they don't get quite as much experience with the senior team involved as well few more tops on the men's routes for tops throughout either of the throughout the field but on either of the routes for top so a little bit softer in the men's competition potentially but again all the big names were there yeah the top six is certainly a very very strong field there and obviously we've got Adam Andra here this weekend he looked a little bit disappointed with that foot slip on his second route obviously atop the first route quite steadily quite easily didn't really struggle with that top slope away you had to get it and then you had to flip it to do the last move but the foot slip he seemed a little bit disappointed a little bit angry with himself when he came back down to the ground yeah you would say looking through today's start listed pretty much all of the big names there but one casualty max really go from Austria unfortunately didn't make it for here in the south to the semi-finals gonna be disappointed with that yeah I'm sure it will be I mean he's he's putting two very good performances in the past but it certainly wasn't his day yesterday well we've talked a lot about what happened yesterday let's get ready for the action here for today so let's have a look at the routes that the climb is gonna be facing this semi-final they could see on the right-hand side of the arena women's route first guys you're going to give us a bit of a bit of a chat through what the climbers are actually up against have to say just before you launch into it pretty cold in here today it's very early in the morning and congratulations to anybody who woke up specially mainland Europe to watch this live semi-finals definitely get the kettle on because this is gonna be an early start for the athletes and that's what the women are against yeah for sure this is a challenging starts the competition with such an early morning we were up around up and having breakfast around seven o'clock I'm sure the athletes were starting to get their fingers fingers going at that point but it would take a look at the women's semifinals to the right-hand side of the wall it's in the blue jewel texture holds quite a lot of them is in polyurethane so that would be quite interesting to see how they perform on that route with such cold and quite damp conditions here in the arena this morning but one thing we can say is that we can still see the chalk on the holes which is definitely a bonus so that initial start up the up the boomerangs and through that cluster of fiber glass volumes brings you to the big black volume at the one brand the one third height little bit of a compression sequence and a foot plant out to the left-hand side I hear from the route Tessa so and the slightly dynamic move fairly early doors but thankfully not a jump for the ladies and then a little bit tic tac toe as we move beyond that volume up through that crimpy section leads us through a little bit of a sustained sequence and then we're going to move back right words across underneath the first of the three clustered yellow volumes there as we move up onto the second yellow volume it's interesting little sequence you you go up with the left hand into a shoulder right and onto the crimp on the volume you flip the left hand and then roll over into the little blue hole in the corner of the two volumes and then up through the craters and then what looks like it's going to be a real fight on the hands the ladies up there in the roof as we're moving to the really steep section of the wall here in wrath Oh a little bit of burl and compression and pushing and undercutting this would roll back out to that top cluster of the four yellow volumes and a long way it's a finish with a lot of moves the route is actually around 52 moves long it's the longest of the two semi final routes we've got this weekend here in righto and actually looks like we've got the competitors out now on the mats yes going through their observation yeah mass observation started as you can see there but let's have a really good detailed look again guys we just talked it through this men's semi-final well the men's again is actually the left hand route on the wall both climate both sets of climbers will be climbing at the same time the left-hand route is a little bit shorter than the ladies around 48 moves I'm told beginning with the nice set of orange slope as to start with and what looks actually quite quite a hard sequence by the third bolt on these two green holds for the left hand but I'm sure the the guys won't have too much issues with that hopefully not anyway we don't want any people falling really low on this route we've got to see people getting high a little trend right words across them more green holds sequence on the volumes again as we head into the middle of the climbing wall and yeah quite a quite an interesting route it's definitely quite crimpy so I'm sure it's going to suit some of the guys that really do like this crimpy style of climbing but then at the top as we see we enter into the Burleigh section the route as we always do here in ratha with this really challenging roof right at the end and really quite a complex sequence the route setters have got up in that top section the roof I think we just wait for that camera to pan up to the top you can see that initial hard section by the fourth bolt with the two left-hand green side poles moving back right words across the Traverse out it's the middle of the wall almost yeah you have to say goes it's a pretty epic wall here in Raph oh the arena here in Edinburgh is absolutely massive the climbers did actually well the roots has managed to get four routes side-by-side I'd like well like we were saying earlier on as well I mean sometimes this wall actually looked quite small but the arena is absolutely huge so it really it really sort of disappears into the size of this arena but it is quite a monster of a wall because we keep that camera moving got would get a better view now of this midsection of the men's the semi-final through these volumes into the green section this is pretty simple sequence here not nothing too complex at this point and then it gets a little bit more challenging there was as we exit the gray volumes rightwards onto those green holes and then we're going to do a really cool funky quite hard-to-reach reverse way back left to gain that slot with the left hand right hand comes in to the underside of it and then does a roll back over that crimp and then another hard sustain section all the way back right woods back across the wall and then final couple of moves sloper at the top to match big green halter finish and a glory entry into the final placings yeah around 49 moves it is on the top row that we've got here in the left hand side of the room they can see the start list and women's start list up first though we said regulation 26 men 26 women's gonna be Nika what a pot up over from Ukraine is going to be out first one of the young sensations born in just 2003 that's the lower half of the the draught they're coming out in that order so Nicki will be out first coming out in reverse order from the qualifications yesterday so a knack for ovum will be the final a flick out that's in the middle of the deal draw that a couple of the big names you'll be very much used to if you follow the IFC circuit Tina Johnson half says from Norway one of the big names in their youth world champion double world champion Laur agora from italy's in there as well medals absolutely everywhere for those athletes through the middle section they're mean and Markovic great to see her back she'll be coming out just before the cleaning break in 13th slightly lower down the list there Christine strands had a really good day yesterday that's loose to our de who we talked a little bit about earlier Mollie Thompson Smith great see her right up in the top end of the draw and then the really big hitter start to come me a cramp all Jessie pills 2018 world champion up there the Karaka veteran was really strong yesterday had a great of the forum in Quran at the World Cup just last week and act Verhoeven we mentioned her so good to see her back and qualified in first musician well as Mike mentioned we've got Molly Thompson Smith in the women's semi-final and also we do have quite a few men from G B in the men's semi-final as well let's have a look at that means this that's the first nine are going to be coming out there pretty much as you'd expect a couple of names slightly lower down potentially for this European Championships then you may have fought Yan Hoyer especially go quite as well as may have hope James Polk there Jim Pope one of the first Brits to come out he'll be coming out just after Yan who have slightly lower down Dave Behrens also good to see him back in that chin pops oldest climber here not quite close to yeah really good see Dave back in action another Brit co2 Brits they hated the old slam in the semi-final Michael good to see slightly lower down in the order the end the final climb is coming out Martin Stronach he's been really strong this year Sebastian alengka also good to see him back on really good form and then you know most of these names and written need no real introduction Yakov Schubert Yannick Flo ease just come from nowhere seemingly in the German team said it rumored the garage great see him back on form Alberto in his Lopez's as always seems to be the crowd favorite he made the Quran final just last week winner from that competition Adam and Ruby out second to last and Sasha Lehmann winner from the villas World Cup is there so it's hit or after hit it right at the end of the men's draw well it certainly is a very strong top six and and the thing is well we see those top six go through to the final this afternoon yeah I think one thing that's important to see here as you can see the amount of big coats that are being worn out there during the mass of evasion of the men and women will be climbing side-by-side here in the semi-final as per normal in a ifs II lead semi-final but it is cold and some of the athletes struggled with that yes they just as the athletes are ushered off the stage and the route so it's basically saying that the conditions you know normally climbers if it's cold it's good but it's kind of slight damp and cold and so a couple of the early climbers may struggle a little bit with conditions and routes that suggest that it may improve as the morning goes on here I think also the the risk is more on the women's semi-final who are climbing on polyurethane and the left-hand side the the men are climbing on the polyester and the polyurethane can sometimes be affected a little bit more than the polyester in these slightly cooler and damper conditions but I said earlier on we can still see chart on those blue holes on the right-hand side of the competition wall so it doesn't look like the dampness is too high on the hold so I think that's a good thing just walking off the stage here you can see in the men's KIAC up shoe but Adam Andre Yan who are all going through the routine it's quite interesting here the isolation zone is effectively behind a giant bit of climbing off to the right-hand side of the arena so they go behind this corridor behind the wall itself and they had all the way down down the corridor and then into a big bouldering room at the back where luckily there's some central heating to keep themselves warm but it's a really good effort from the athletes they had this in Tehran as well in Slovenia last week super early start for the semi-finals seemingly they seem to just deal with it like they would any other time start for a competition just get up get some food down you and just get on with it yeah I certainly couldn't hack that anymore hurt by a very early ourselves this morning I was worthy athletes having breakfast seven o'clock start and then that's nothing wrong with an early start but an early start and then coming out and performing is definitely a bigger challenge yeah considering how hard these semifinals routes actually have to be the semi-final is generally the hardest ranked as you compete for many a year just a few just a few how did you always find the semi-final process I mean you can't really put too much weight on the fact that you're in the semi-final in your vine to get into a final I mean you really just have to take it in your own in your own method and maybe that is just treating it like any other climbing day I think when you start to build up a competition into something really really big inside your own head it's just not normal it's not the way that you actually do things so you need to sort of try and dial it back a little bit and just treat it as a you know a day at the office basically I've seen a few interviews over the scene last few weeks some of the athletes realizing that some of these time schedules are a little bit on the brutal side and actually starting to make those training sessions really early in the morning as well to try and simulate some of the early starts get the body used to a slightly different rhythm and kind of getting up at 6:00 having that first training session most athletes these days will train twice in a day get that first session out of the way really early and just kind of get used to scraping yourself out of bed having a coffee and doing some hard moves yeah I guess if you really on the game and you are looking at the schedule going forwards over the next few weeks then if you know you've got the early starts then you can basically just add that into your week and take a few early starts and go to bed a little bit earlier at nights as well just get the body used to pulling really hard in the morning but yes definitely an interesting aspect of the sport to be constantly adapting and changing your ways and actions as you go through and prepare for these competitions yeah obviously when we've got when we go across to the other time zones that becomes a really big and very challenging factor to deal with yeah it's a good point you've arranged there guys because especially looking forward to the Olympics next year out in Tokyo obviously there's a time difference there it's nine hours time difference something like that plus completely different weather conditions Olympics to Tokyo 2020 is going to be held in August absolutely roasting at that time of year so not only they've got consider time difference but temperatures and training over the next sort of eleven months something like that 10 11 months getting ready for the Tokyo games those who have qualified most even still got some spots available to come vacation spots available in Toulouse in just a couple of months time but getting ready and being prepared to climb hard in hot weather or cold weather whatever it may be these efforts really never seems to surprise me how well they can perform in all the different conditions it will be very interesting to see how the athletes do adapt their not only their daily lifestyle but their that that whole year for people that are qualified in the Olympics how will they change their life as it were to fit in with this well have to say if it was me I'd have been to Japan this year for the year World Championships I'll be a get myself a campus board in the shower turning up to maximum maximum steam and just having a having a training session because absolutely wet as an otters pocket it's so human it's so hot and what about moving there you could do that I suppose yeah if you like ramen and sushi then yeah yeah head over early that's for sure but I mean we we do joke but obviously many of the athletes will head out weeks before getting getting to the athlete village nice and early and and start trying to get used to the conditions but I mean no matter how long you're there you can't turn the temperature down so if you can acclimatize as it were but you can't do much about the weather well we've got a few early risers in the seats to cheer on the first few climbers hopefully will we'll see a few more people breathing into this arena as we are as we progress through the day nothing we're too far away from kicking this semi-finals off early predictions Michael early predictions I think good question I've given up making predictions to be honest in climbing event C you know you can do your best but with semi finals especially it's really really hard to tell some climbers you know they get on well coming out coming out early some you know start to feel the pressure those who qualified higher coming out later on I do believe just off to the right hand side of stage I just behind those green cranes who they can see our phones door now getting himself ready there we are Nika Potter pover is please say this competition is up and running great shot that the first two athletes approaching the wall nikka 16 years old first climber out in the women's semi-final on the right-hand side of this wall so just see the bar on the left and the right of the screen there the production company here it they've put on a new graphic then that's a progression bar so as the climbers obviously these are the first ones out the old bar will be moving up the wall and they'll set a high point on that bar and as climbers come through the semifinal round you see all the different climbers marked on the screen and you'll see people starting to progress and that is life scoring as well and theory popped over the first first to leave the ground she enters into these new very large macro volumes I mean it's quite hard to see how hard how big that first fiberglass is but when when she gets next to it you realize it's about to meet along quite impressive climbing holds yes his Alphonse from Austria to Austrians coming out to start the competition the clocks on either side of the wall they are independent timing system so each clam has their own clock that's not the same time on each of them [Music] those climbers making steady progression just picking this first changing angle we lost our funds they're just moving on to that first very slow key fiberglass volume there on that orange section of wall yellow so it's hard to make predictions but he was offer around hold 16 there for Alfonso he'd gone early doors already and be interesting to see obviously as this competition progresses obviously we want to see someone near atop or topping the route itself that's the dream from the route set as as Nika but a BOGO just struggles a little bit maybe with a little bit of reach issues stepping in left foot out but you have to just commit to this swing across now strong strong work took a couple of attempts there for it to work out the sequence but that is the method that the recesses have created the toe hook and then release the toe hold the swing plant the foot on the big bottle she's got now under a left foot yeah we've with yesterday have so many climbers falling really early on this jump it's really hard to predict exactly where the climbers are level wise compared to where they starting position is on this semi-final kanika she's climb 9a which is coming out 26 in the European Championship semi-final so she's no slouch torso Cuchillo a really early high point here yeah it's definitely no no science sixteen-year-olds 9a already that's amazing now into this a little tic-tac-toe section really nice to put the route setters to switch it up from that compression and swing and release into some really nice basic hard crimping of this gray wall here big move looking good though over on the men's now we've got Mateos posh from Austria also makes his start in this semi-final gives you an idea of the weather here in Scotland at the moment they brought the spotlights out already it is daylight just the spotlights are on in the left hand side sensibly the organizers just left it off at Nick until she's probably falling off and we'll start that up on the next climber she's doing really well here making the most of one of very few rests available to the climbers Reuters as always really in the semi-finals don't offer that many rests it's kind of one good one on the men's one on the women's posh just reaching the boiling point of Daria that's called fifteen sixteen is the match moves ahead yeah so a new high point early it's only the second climber out Mateus Bosch now the young climber just 20 years old some pretty decent results over the years European youth cups especially this is a nice little sequence here from the root says right hand out left hand just dropping into that undercut gets really physical in the fingers all of a sudden through this section of the route really crimpy moves and a really interesting move here holds a little barn door off that undercut shoulder hold interestingly held it with the thumb and and even a finger wrapped over the top of the volume good to see the crowds is filling up all of a sudden plenty of support and nikiforova with one minute 36 are still going here this is where it starts to really kick in there very steep here now Burleigh section coming up through this big volume on the right-hand side and the black one on the left-hand side foot slip just took her out to the action there back on the left-hand side we're still going strong with my toes past she's still fighting over the middle of the wall making good progress yeah be around hold 37 there for Nick here it's for 250 moves at the top on this we've been through on that right hand side some good supply of last in there on that move into another thumb pinch undercut not quite sure yet how you meant to take that but we'll sure we'll see later on but that was a good good attempt by Matias Pasha I'm sure a boy quite happy with that yeah that's really the woman's really does need to build really nicely kind of really steady up to about halfway and then there's kick in around that volcanoes actually Knightley said gazon I think we could see yeah knickers popovers High Point remaining for a little war there you asked me to really make a prediction there's there's one I think that would be a high point for quite some time we will see lead us for a big prediction like that Michael no it's risky to be honest very risky 29 plus but mateus posh good start making predictions we do it basically just serve a laugh and have something to do something who have a bit of banter about they're basically wrong hundred percent of time but and I was pretty impressed with that run from Nika Catherine turns from sweats learned this out next in the women's competition she was another one of those climbers to fall really early on the first route in the qualification yesterday it was a really sort of basic but length dependent jump in the qualifiers that hold 16 yesterday and so many of the climbers fell on that move but had a really good climb on the second route and managed to get through to the semi-finals Catherines one of the older climbers in this field 27 years old it's also climbed 9 a 7th in the world cup in Koran 2018 Steppenwolf joins us from the Czech Republic Czech is there all of a sudden starting to develop a really strong team with C Marcin strannix and I'm Andra the other guys here in this semifinal stepparent 49th in the world cup in villas so he's done worlds get through to the semi-finals here at the European Championships and we definitely be looking to find one of his best results this season these two holds with the left hand now on the demands route looked absolutely diabolical from the ground good mix up those styles here with these open side poles then into some little rat crimps as we tend to know them in the UK you have just joined us mic wrangling Gasparri live here in Rafah in edinburgh big arena here up in scotland he's the lead semi-final european championships and in fewer sure in mainland Europe good morning anywhere else in the world good day where you could be possible a good afternoon yeah good afternoon good evening good night yeah and yeah get yourself a hot drink this is a look set to be a superb European Championship semi-finals step out just falls again around that hole 1616 plus probably for him trying to lose crime it's pretty early on the men's route at the moment as you can see what a against here this is big release of this TOEIC on this big cylinder volume that's caused a few upsets this volume affair people were the really good memories that volume was used really high up on the wall in the 2017 lead World Cup here actually climbing around that volume in the roof decided the medals back then between iyanya gone Brett and Jessie pills no yeah near here this weekend Oh Jessie certainly is should be coming out from last pretty solid go through that release it's just I think it's a bit of a shocker when they get there I put that toke up and suddenly realise you've got to take everything off onto side poles but looking a little bit more comfortable again now you would think this was almost a bit of a position to rest in but it's probably not the easiest rest in the world but some of these athletes do make these very challenging positions work for themselves so it's getting a little bit of shake back there which is good [Applause] she'll just be relaxing and taking a look at the next trim P section and we all go on the on the men's routes we've got David Marco Colombo from Italy the only Italian to make it through to this field see how he deals with this move by the fifth bolt has already taken two scalps back with Catherine here still making steady progress this was a shake that popped over used a little for a little while a little bit more tired than popped over when she arrived at this point Catherine this is the ice has gone straight into his the backhand undercut rather than shoulder use this as an intermediate to build the feet give you an idea where she is on the ruthless hold 30 at the moment he's a terrible right foot that she's standing on the moment they're over incident crimp in the corner if you climb a lot on these holes you'll recognize what that hold is and be able to relate to it certainly not very good David Marko Colombo's are down on the small screen they're from Italy as well a good qualification round for him [Music] you know the only Italian to make it through into this men's semi-final yeah no Stefano ghisolfi here this weekend could see Italy represented with David market now down on the small screen caffeine drinks still push it on here getting close now to Nico popovers high point of hold 37 Marco starting to bust a bit of a power scream and see how hard he's trying on that right hand undercut still going though see how wrong my prediction was a magician just as David Marco Colombo we lose here men's competition to pushing through really quick that was close there Colombo moves into second place behind my tears posh there with the 27 and it's gonna be close to the high put in there for from Nicky what's up over happy to a really good effort from her yes I have to move short of slide Katherine got 836 plus there and put up over in 37 my prediction remains solid after just one climber 26 men to go and 26 women to go through this qualification there would be cleaning break after the 13th climb AHA halfway through this competition the route setters will tie in and get themselves up the wall to make sure the route is in a sphere of possible condition throughout this round as it can be interesting feature of this arena here just as we look at the current standings that's the men's competition Mateus Bosch their second climber out currently holding the high point at 29 plus and that's way short at the top of the wall mark brand from the Netherlands now it comes out whip sees a little blue shoe covers off looks like that something see organizers have provided here it was just about to say one of the features of this wall here this is in a old rock quarry so we're technically underground rather than a normal ground level and I would say they've got some nice water features but they're not the conventional ones where we put put in put them in themselves God created them yeah some runs of water coming down the side of the cliffs if it doesn't affect their natural clown walls themselves as you come through that back corridor just the last moment there is a rather large puddle but you've got something go she ate yeah that's why the organizers have provided the little blue shoe covers it's very good of them missing quite a few climbers using them themselves especially when some of these competitions where they have non carpet covered mats and they just PVC allowing the competitors to keep the feet clean until that last moment let me pull on now a Shirin from Israel starts her campaign on the right hand side of the wall also one of those competitors a 17 years old has that really good youth competition results third in the European Youth Cup in Boyer on in France 2018 and pretty good results this year as well and semi finals we lose Marc Brown too early on the Rue and you can see as soon as he fell off he was looking at his hands you do wonder we talked quite a bit about the conditions here especially early on if the conditions and the mens rea it's just gonna be tricky for the early climbers to deal with just a sort of moisture in the air down in the quarry here yeah that was super low for Marc that was a 16 around 16 I think unconfirmed scores but 16 with Steppenwolf in 16 plus and Alphonse Danny is 16 plus as well it's hope as we move up the men's field that's not going to be too much of a cluster around that position but back here with the ladies good use of the knee there to push the body over into that shoulder that's my kind of technique that Michael that's not the first time I've actually seen that today as well we saw a Karen getting involved in a bit of knee action at the bottom there's a sort of weird chimney through a slower section that piece of paper flapping off her back is actually just her bib but it's off to become unstuck for the early doors we might have even pulled on whilst it was broken she's very old-fashioned the the big number system that they have of these World Cups is a bit of paper and a few few pins to hold it on it just seemed a bit 1990s but there we are some things never change if it isn't broke don't fix it but seems to be broken anyway your Val Shem lucky to see him back on the wall Israel left and right at the moment you felt another climber who's had many good results over the year just as we lose no aspirin [Applause] yeah you've of shimla 8 do you remember that finals back in chamonix 2017 one of those fantastic results he never quite managed a match so maybe he can do something here at this European Championships coming out six so it's got a lot of work to do if he wants to put in a really big high point here and kind of challenge the athletes coming out later on this is the move that is challenging people at the moment yeah that little orange foam catch underneath was actually added last night by the route setters just to tone down that section of the route looks like it was a good idea a really big powerful cross over there for you eval I think it's gonna be bit disappointed with axioms looking relatively solid a you have to try quite hard on the previous move but it looks like a bit of a zing on the fingers it just come down just looking at his left hand they're certainly quite a punchy sequence on that angle change [Music] neener are so now from France joins us few French athletes through definitely I brought a young squad with them here in the men's competition room on - groans super for him he'll be coming out for from last he's a a veteran I think it's fair to say I think you'd be happy with that description but he's going really well absolutely sad an amazing few years as row man and he is actually the oldest competitor in this event this weekend nothing maybe one day Dave barons will challenge him on that one who knows well underway again on this blue women's semi-final on the right on side of this wall here in Roth Oh I mean sense an international climbing Center in Scotland yeah Nina Arthur just looking to beat her senior best results of eight that's in Brienne song can't you find a senior-level result better than eight going really fast through this lower section just steaming through different Cadence's of the climate is always interesting to watch as lower volume section uh since we've worked quite well by the route setters really nice set of volumes there so the the women's race actually progressing quite quick now we're on to the sixth climber the men's we are sorry the women's is going quite slow because the women are getting quite high in the men's he's going faster that's the seventh climber out he is out on the floor yeah yeah who has just joined us one of the bigger names on the scene there he is starting his campaign he's definitely one of those climbers who was known as a boulder of hurt for many years but definitely more of an all-round climber now but he's a close to his PB on the speed wall during qualification just the other day skips a sequence there as were normal with young he's definitely one just to skip out a few moves but you say it's definitely more of a sprinter than an endurance based athlete and just likes to just power fruit kind of bang bang bang all the way through different moves and try and effectively just beat the pump to the top I think it could play to his advantage with this next sequence coming up I mean the other climbers we've seen if I've really struggled on this couple of moves here but young Willie's power hopefully he'll be able to get through it relatively quickly little foot swap down to that jib punch you move here and then as we saw before same move that is definitely becoming a little bit of a challenge there that much onto that green fiberglass wire I wonder if that is possibly a little bit due to the conditions on that hold it's gone maybe a little bit it's Maggie Maggie as we would say in the UK is that in the dictionary probably but it's in the climbing dictionary so I'll feel free to use it a climbing book of jargon longer and longer every livestream neither looking pretty strong though here through this crimping section does that little punch she go again and then into the undercut here this is where we've seen a few athletes take a moment or two to chop and relax a little bit of a shake here left foot slipping there on those or put jewel texts for tolls and delete that volume which it doesn't stop to rest there keeps going looking a little bit tired now there's that nice little flip move of the left hand good sequencing from the resellers blocking that next aisle to force that lower sequence if it seems early on in this route that we're going to see plenty of these athletes high up on the wall in the women's competition [Applause] struggling now looking a bit pumped loading that one a couple of times and really nicely locks that into the shoulder it's got a lot of work to do here Nina our third to turn get to Nika Potter Perez my point as far as up to that first okay she's got a real early fight on her hands here tongues out for power pnina ant oh this is a really good fight from Nina at the moment she's moving quite well up the field here and she's off and nothing's quite there at the high point over pop what up over yeah a couple of moves short pretty good hold 36 swiftly 35 plus there for Nina swiftly moving on to the men's route it's local hero in the United Kingdom is jim pope all the way from Sheffield we know Jim very well from our days in London know it Michael yeah we just kind of grew up Jim grew up climbing in and around us and some of the other climbers in London just amazing to see people going from such a young age and then on to the big arenas and climbing in front of thousands people it's absolutely awesome and very inspirational for some of the younger climbers watching out there Jim is one of those ones who can really prove what you can be but let's see if we can get through this next section this is where we lost Yunho then really interesting weather route so it's got that little orange jib that he just dropped his left toe on takes it out of the hill and you've got a fire up to this next hole that looks really tricky just over a crimp it on the right hand now I'll secure that so it goes ahead of yen Hoyer just manages to get through that's a really nervy section there on the mentor around hold sixty drops the head and just has to bone down on that crimp on the left-hand tuck to the head and you always a sign that someone's pulling really hard there's nothing good now from Jim got through that little heartbreak move for quite a lot of people just maybe just get into the flow a little bit he's been trying really hard on some of these moves are quite big for Jim it's a little hard drop under for the left hand just hits it back three fingers initially good work Jim looking like it's going quite well at the moment this is what we like to see good work from Jim Pope here really fierce lower section here on the men's route you see the legs shaking powers through the left leg to stand up I said pretty much the only rest on the route according to the route sellers to go Sophie just on the small screen that joined us in the women's competition Jim one of those climbers he's really looking for one of those big results he's always been there or there abouts made plenty of semi-finals oh yoga Sophie 13th last time she climbed here in Rafa at the lead World Cup in 2017 gym just right now this is looking good fighting fighting crowd is certainly getting behind Jim Pope at the moment as he's making his way up this routes he's putting on a hell of a fire kind of time to look tired and was trying Howard really lowdown on the route just shaking it off now is there like I'm Alberto battle this one it's become known as the Albert about twenty nine plus is the high point is posh Jim Polk moving up great shot there Jim trying really hard now this is exceptional climbing from Jim Pope here yeah that's a new high point already it's really fighting it's a warrior battle Spartan effort here from Jim Koch now follows up on hold 33 already so get to do high points easily to pips quite close together there and he's pushing through to that next left hand undercut it's absolutely gassed already but he's still fighting here Jim Pope just gotta watch his feet on these bolts that was an absolute amazing fight Jim Pope moves up into first place there with a score of around 35 as an unconfirmed score but that was a superb fight from Jim Pope the crowd very very excited by that one it's good to see the highpoint pushed shot six moves ahead there from the terraces watches previous high point that's a good little fight that from Jim Barry yeah if you want to know how to try hard in the route what's that one back as a replay he surprised if he can undo his own night it must be absolutely finished at the end of that he looks finished about 20 moves below that was a really really good fight I think that's it's really disappointing as a climber to come out and not be able to give it your all because you you fell off on a lower down bollard problem we just a bit of a slip but every climber really wants to just to go out there and put in a huge fight and I think once you've done that you can feel like well I did everything I could and you know I did what I could on the route and that that's that where I end up I end up but if you fall off and just zing off flow and kind of walk away a bit disappointed from a slip it can be really annoying yeah okay mobile gym will be very pleased with that I think it's finally put in a really good performance over on the women's semi final though we've got Claudio ghisolfi who's through that initial compression section on the big black volume into the crimps going nice and solid at the moment yes he's a very impressive athlete she's won the Italian Championships in all three disciplines climbs quite a lot on the rock as well no slouch outdoors this is some of the ladies have made this look section look okay but these footholds are pretty diabolical that you've got stand on to go across here really not liking this at all with the feet it's three really bad jewel to extra sauce sloping dishes she needs to make a decision here and just commit to it finally she has done that fate means got a pull really hard in the arms and that's bad it's on to a bigger photo and it's the big photo but lets her down and that right foot just slips off interesting Michael is actually wearing a heart of rubber there on those shoes maybe that has a bit of an effect on that route it is cold and the harder rubber doesn't perform quite as well in the colder conditions well you heard it here first hard rubber cold conditions no good gasps Barry will be giving lectures on shoe rubber just after this I learnt everything from Nathan how it Nimrod Marcus now from Israel climbers has been on the scene for quite some time even though it's just 19 years old that's one of European youth cups in Boulder traditionally a really good Boulder of it is also going well here on the lead of this weekend here at RAF Oh easily through that section there really showed his bouldering power through that lower section yeah a little pause on that volume that thumb swap but then moved through quite steadily this moves definitely hard if you know that left hand but made the flip quite comfortable [Music] some nice movements I think on this both routes actually ought to know the route setters have created this jump little step up pounce into this backhand on this triangle very nice we've got a great route setting team eunju knew who was one of the setters last weekend in crown in slovenia so obviously he's brought quite a lot of knowledge of the current level of the climbers to this event it's always useful I think when the route setters can overlap a few events also aided and abetted by Max Ayrton and bam West both very regular setters on the climbing scene both very experienced let's get back to the climb in nimrod is going pretty well at the moment i on the wall in that spotlight still looking quite fresh up there isn't it Matt well not so much in the face but in the body movement it looks pretty stronger than minute obviously working hard good chance here that masculine Rob might better Nimrod Marcus you comin they're on their way just I said it our footsteps how on earth did you hold that in that Gaston on the right absolutely credible to hold that can he push through a couple more moves really nice cross on the rose move they're now pushing towards jim's high point of 35 that's hold 33 let's see what you can do there now pushes up to hold at 35 and that's joined the high point there potentially a 35 plus we wonder if Jim Pope will be given a 35 plus as well once the scores are fully updated we'll see offers an appeal on that score we'll see see how hulagur joins us now from Switzerland first little challenge for the ladies back on this black volume that toe hook by committing release and quite powerful no foothold far left and then step down to the big one through that nice and safely though first semi-final 2019 for Michelle also another one those climbers it just seems to have a brilliant youth climbing career looking to convert it first in European Youth Cup so looking to push into the senior level now and start to find more semi-finals on top of this one as the season progresses just taking the opportunity for Michelle to have a little shake here okay hand holds and then into this press up get ready for some small crimps now good shot there you can see the size of some of these holes on this lady's route misread that a little bit went up with the right hand [Applause] [Music] certainly Michels paces just dropped a little bit here seems to be a little bit indecisive as to what she wants to do oh she wants to go through this move see first planet from France and the men's competition now Mon choix comes out on the left-hand side he's on the small screen at the moment which we just focus on Michelle that's a little bit better for Michelle I think that that indecision down below two moves below two quite a lot out of her actually I think she'll like this section going across these poor footholds see from that shot really really bad low profile dual texture smears just a little bit of plastic screwed to the world choosing to use that left foot just flat on the wall it's probably better than the footholds yeah they're really drilling that right so as well making sure it makes no mistakes on there that's where we lost cloud as a Sophie just a minute ago and she moved up to this next hole let's see and now it gets on with this next move just decides to flat pay pasties foot from the left foot on top of the green hold rather than using that little orange screw on has the release that's really small little jib out on the left for the left foot savage mulberry section there from the roots a double set of shoulders is really hard work after that slow per match yeah all around from hold 15 to 19 so really tricky cuz I'm four or five minutes Boulder problem there so we're back with Michelle still going strong making nice progress at the moment once the climbers we've seen that have arrived at this point are going quite a few more moves hi Michelle just taking the opportunity to have a little shake they're not the most conventional place to start but she moves onwards and upwards through these adjusting GRU feature that the route setters have created with these volumes shoulders and shoulders recover quite well in that section there she's actually came in running short of time now 45 seconds left definitely not enough time to top the wall here I've had timeouts one time out yesterday doing qualification just six minutes is obviously the limit wonder if she has seen the time might be a case of just pushing through the next couple of holes just to try and get close to a new high point out 34 at the moment there's that nice little bounce over to the second volcano I point his right hand on that big fiberglass falling slightly higher up can't you get one more move pretty close it's a good effort there I'm gonna show who the girl thinks she can leap lead for that yeah it was a certainly a good fight from her tussle low down in the groove with the black volume she was going much further but managed to battle through up to what we're currently looking at is possibly a 36 plus so put up over looks like she still has the lead at this moment in time 137 moving over to the men's route there we've got Martin began from Slovenia yeah he's really stepped it up this year Martin for top 20 finishes already this year so it's good to see him was really taking up that just to a new level in 2019 Slovenian team is just one of the dominant teams alongside the Japanese athletes the European champions no Japanese here this weekend obviously but yeah it's going really well mastering Birkin just still in this lower third of three main angles here in Rafah lower Boulder problem coming up to hold number 15 at the moment right so it looks like we've just been joined by Jim Pope which is gonna plug in the microphone here and I think this is working Jim say hello now that was a good performance Jim happy with that in a semi final round yes pleased yeah I mean that was that you were fighting from really early does that move where Martin is at the moment we standing on that green volume and that that sequence there looks absolutely yeah we're shocking is now that holds really bad and you've just got a little thumb captured is all that's holding you on release I can see quite a few climbers struggling around that section and the two moves that was the two big shoulder throws really yeah yeah yeah I mean that was the first time I've really seen you be able to dig deep and just keep fighting it's like I think Tim's gonna fall off nose no nose no nose no he's just the battle keeps coming it was amazing yeah yeah you really happy yesterday have not managed to climb much since Quran last weekend just because I've been having had a bit of an illness and flu stuff but yeah yesterday I felt really tired so I was glad that was kind of like shaking off the cobwebs and that today went a little bit better yeah well it was very good very satisfying to put in a good performance and what's next hopefully yeah maybe finally I think I think there's still a lot of really good climbs to come out so yeah we'll see and then there's still the to Asia rounds of the World Cups in two weeks time I'll be heading to China and then Japan brilliant thanks very much for joining us Jim Pyles well done hopefully we'll see you again later on this afternoon from Jim there know when Ark at the moment is on the wall now in just 19 years old some really superb youth results let's see what she can do here the semifinals for the European Championships are live from the Rafa climbing center in Edinburgh it's got a push through this Louis awkward barrel section and find Annie there it is see that sequence time and time again now nothing Bergen is still going here this is where Marcus Nimrod did a horrendous looking shoulder moving his foot slipped there's that really nice cross through from the roots that is just on the lower screen as nor when just pushing ahead now big fight here at the moment Martin Bergen still going trying to push up to Jim Pope's high point yeah superb battle old 34 plus probably for him doesn't mean we get to focus on nolan art from france see it's definitely not a fast route this woman's climb it's sort of slow instead of just use half her time already here know when you're feeling it's less about using the time to get to the top and more just trying to get as high as possible and just not really worrying about the top of the rear the moment so such as the difficulty level of this route women's rue it does seem looking fresh at the moment though Mike little shake there on that undercut seen a few ladies taking a moment to chart and relax they're now moving up into this shoulder right and flip the left hand to be undercut setters have definitely blade down a bit of a challenge these ladies with some very uncomfortable foot positions it's just standing on the volume there for a small foot job as well into this groove but looking strong at the moment [Music] no one still going strong at the moment from France just entering into the very near the high points at the moment this is looking good yes well that was really really close so close to the high point now make a pot to play over type in a 37 no we're not really good performance let's see we interested to see really how this high point starts to be kind of troubled all around hold 36 37 37 plus in that region Dave Behrens from Great Britain you can see he was just starting his semi-final campaign really he went really well yesterday it was really good to see Dave back in the semi-finals hopefully this low hard move will play into Dave's experience with his bouldering strength and it will get through that and then hopefully fight like a pope old Monday 38 years old and still competing at the top level which is really really good to see may have just heard it over the speaker there its 95th international event for Dave Barron so looking for that century of I foresee competitions do you think that's the point you'll step down stop sure McCall's got way over a hundred international events so maybe they is pushing for the most entries ever Pinterest instant see where on the ground is if anybody's out there let us know Dave quite strong through that move which is good and then this punchy to move crossovers here this one especially nails it though that's good good performance by Dave at the moment here and a Schubert from Austria joins us one of the legends in this line at Hannah Schubert had so many great results over the year made a podium in Quran 2018 third there the finals back in Innsbruck as well the world champion says so Hannah Schubert no affair yeah just season just dropped off a little bit start this year but it's really thought back and fighting fit Dave is moving slowly up that leaderboard into sixth place with the 23 plus and very good for mr. Baran's so that's quite fresh actually as well Polk was rattling their little bits and wobbling a little bit at this point but he kept fighting himself so let's see what Dave can go Shi register slight issue with the rope there we'll just hang around upon my foot really low on this route oh I just lost the right foot there slipped off the volume failed to get that left heel on the orange volume and you think it'll be a little bit lonely it'll be a little bit both ways with that pleased and a little bit disappointed yeah I think it'd be pleased when he sees the results he's up there Pass for the likes of you Val and Yan Hoya and has just taken a moment to step back down there a little bit of an issue getting this photo up onto this it's just a whole 12 the moment really powerful punch ups it's blocked crimp now gets it sorted had to work quite hard there and a Shubert see what level of fitness she has at this European Championships and get through this next section but just the ease is off a little bit on the arms as you turn the angle it's slightly less steep over this that's what a grey midsection see there it's three big angles here really steep at the bottom is off a little bit for a huge section in the middle and then really cranks over at the top there's a little bit of a head wall to finish as well and hopefully we'll see somebody up there today Hannah Schubert over three minutes 45 left on the clock quite a lot of a time lot of energy as well this is that release move very committing I take that right toe out really plant that left foot on the wall holds it yeah nice ripple of applause there for Hana Schubert you can see life's going as she pushes through hold 17 into 18 that she had to put really big fight in that lower section to the little shake of the head when she did that release of it was too happy with herself but she's gotten to this groove now we've seen the previous climbers take a moment here a little chance to chalk up and relax before this next punchy crimpy section ahead I say relax it's probably not the most relaxing place on earth to relaxing in the moment it moves just before and after again Hana won't be worrying about the time really just think about trying to get as high as possible on this route she's probably calculated already the top is out of the question just considering how much effort she's had managed to put in on that lower section on the small screen now you can see Dimitri you're enough the only climber from Russia in this semi-final for men begins his attempt to make it through to that elusive final round this afternoon [Music] and are they looking a little bit more comfortable now moving quite smoothly through that section such a bad selection of feet here we've started see many climbers coming unstuck on this area here see a really kind of struggling to put power through those feet has recovered later so you guys really well through that lower section hopefully you can push for just a couple more moves now really interesting they're seen some climbers stay with the footholds and some just going for the the big flat plant on the wall like I said before like right foot I mean if you know those holds that's absolutely shocking photo that she's standing on there he's got these two clips one by Annie careful here yeah I still get it yeah mixed with some climb past them the last possible clipping position but knows what she's doing her and she about that's for sure quick double clipping now hopefully just trying to squeeze out a couple more moves suddenly it's hitting out and she's out good fight there by Hana that early section didn't look too comfortable for them okay when I fight there for her yeah I think she'll be disappointed really concerning her class as to how much he struggled on that lower awkward section of the route and think how high she got concerning how pumped she got really low down if he would have got through that section cleaner she could have gone a long way there sure but that's the game McCarron of looking to continue his superb 2019 season 13 for the World Championship so big things potentially here from here enough yeah well he's already got himself through that twiki lower section there around that green volume looking quite comfortable as it makes that clip school move this next one going up instances either backhand or thumb press on this volume very committing it's the line himself up now good shot there flag really fighting there to get up into this look like it was going really well with some good pace he suddenly slowed down a little bit and lost the pace what every move is a real fight at the moment for him everything seems to have slowed down now for Dimitri's really struggling at this point lost that flow a little bit of a shake though it's got plenty of time still left on the clock 2:30 can see really making the most of that rest it's good for two hands underneath the volume there's only one foot there and they believe it's just smearing on the volume right foots on a small little thumb catch jib a little screwing see how awkward that position is burning up in the right calf they're just putting the power down through that big toe gonna be a lot of pressure to do that but cos will help in that position on that undercutting small photo to put a lot of weight down through the feet or in that position now he sets off on this second half of the route trying to find that toe hook finds it well this was approaching the point that we lost it Dave he moves ahead of Dave Behrens at this point good use of that left foot he searches for that high undercut now awkward position couldn't just hold that and release the right hand the foot blow that's a good attempt by Demetri not too sure whether it be too happy himself there was a bit of a battle on that gray volume we saw now over on to the ladies root we have Daria very 10 Nina from Russia steady start by her I've run the men's we're going to up now it clean quick brush cleaning break starts on the men's competition so that will take out quite a few minutes the yeah the men definitely way ahead of the women's competition at the moment now he is out ninth climber out in the women's and obviously a bit of cleaning Blake on the men's that's 14 climbers gone on the men's competition already they're here looking quite comfortable at the moment seems to have cruised up to this point quite well in decision as to what to do with this sequence yeah it looks like she's decided it is the tow hook method this is the way that they've set it the crowd making it clear that that's the way three minutes forty again 45 left here for Daria again slow climbing through this lower sections you wonder if it's just the climbers themselves or the conditions that's just kind of gone to pot a little bit down on the lower section Hannah Schubert now Daria just struggled a little bit on that lower third of the route yeah we just lost area and we saw her put tried to put the foot on the on the holds underneath the black volume for the release but didn't really stem that pivot everybody else has been choosing the flat plant further out on the orange surface such an awkward move very committed move everything is hanging on that right foot and then you've got to release it create your band or I don't think she'll be too happy with that have a quick look at the results at the moment as they stand it's like portaria Louis down guys got some scores for ya dariya they're down in ninth place currently I mean with the score of 18 current leader from very early out is put up over leading the field at the moment with a 37 know when Arc 36 plus and then also joining here on 36 Bosch is Michelle hulagur and also Catherine Chong and then just below that 35 plus Nina uttered from France Hannah Schubert 32 plus from Austria Claudio ghisolfi from Italy 27 plus Noah she ran from Israel 21 plus and then Daria who just saw climbed then 18 not quite got to grapple with that volume - well I think she chose the wrong foot position for the release Tina Johnson half-cells joins us now from Norway another one of those climbers who is a many good results over the years just 25 years old from Oslo 9 times Norwegian champion I've got a smile on the face you see looks like she's ready for this route anyway so I'm just about to be joined by Hannah Schubert we're just going to look her in hello Hannah how was that I think it was my best performance Probie but I haven't talked to anyone yet so I don't know so you don't know I don't know what I messed up but I guess them I could have climbed to beginning like at the black back volume where Tina is heading to now but better but at least I held on and could put on a fight afterward that yeah I I'm happy that I didn't let go because it was really really close I think I think you could imagine that when you've seen it it was really close that I fell there where she's heading to now yeah this initial section on the black volume where you take the tow hook and then release it it's really committing move look so far away for me I don't know if okay yeah like Tina is doing it now looks really good Tina's I think one of the taller so far way and you don't want to risk flicking the foot and then not missing it and falling yeah so I was like tow hook it's a safer option but then releasing it it's really hard really physical I'm really committing and also that middle section when you cross to the right the little Travis with the photos yeah and every time you step once you put weight on a hold you slip and the little bit of indecision there as well with the three photos everybody seems to have the same problem that I was like which one we're going to choose all bad so it was like well I have to take one of them so I think the first one is maybe the best because it's not a whole like it's turned upside down so we can step on top of it okay so you don't have to in the middle after all which makes it a little bit better yeah cool well I hope you've been happy with your performance today and you smiling yeah well done thanks very much for the fight Anna right Hannah Schubert they're all smiles very happy with the performance I think it's always good when you've put in a really good battle I think on the wall Michael yeah I could see Hannah rizal way so it's great to talk to her love love to have a chat Hannah and that's what we all know that's what we want to see you and Tyler Johnson have says again that's kind of her Hannah was describing they're just getting through this lower section you can see how her heart is breathing just trying to relax after getting through that bold resection and and Hannah was just saying that she was pleased to get through the ball resection and then try and push for a high point from then on but inevitably lost quite a lot of power through that lower that lower third of the route and if you are just joining us it's a cleaning break on the men's competition at the moment and we're watching Tina Johnson half size from Norway just to starting to push on now through this next section there's the selection of three really bad footholds on the right for the right foot and then for the left for actually good time you've decided which one to use really nicely done they're actually for Tina's classic route climbing down low there just have a rest when there's one that presents itself and then just blast through the next section made no kind of real hesitations through those feet at all Tina's looking like she's moving very well at the moment she's quite fast and decisive quite confident with her decisions she's not had the foot slip that the other athletes have struggled with on that lower section that little Travis Wright was on the three bad photos so she's looking comfortable and confident at the moment approaching the high point of the current field still taking time to relax that's nice it's got quite a lot of gas in the tank as we would say these two Waco's coming up next now hold 33 at the moment hold 37 still the high point from put up over getting close to that now and late down said she's still going pretty good here that's really nice from Tina this is looking a very strong effort from Tina so very solid on this volume this is where it starts get a lot more physical leave the crimps behind for a moment or two yeah super physical super 3d now in the roof bit more wrestling on some volume that should be a new high point there see there's a little blue jib for a right hand that she's just spotted on top of that fiberglass wall I'm just above I'll get sitting snares the crimp over the top and still manages to keep the feet and it still stretches for one more hole that's hold 40 now via 40 glass poor teeny on sonars oh really pushes new highpoint well we've waited quite a while since we saw potter pover take that high point I'm 37 but that was a worth the wait that was a really good good style to see that she was very controlled very solid and confident on that bottom section and then had the energy to make it into that roof and fight for a few more moves to take the lead on 40 plus you could say just asking the peeler to do the duties on tying the rope for her yeah it was really good to see that because that was classic bit of Route climbing and sometimes the on the comps these data see quite a few tricks and jumped and spectacular kind of circus tricks on the wall but that was a proper a bit of endurance climbing where she had to just push through some hard section took a good rest and then just kept blasting until eventually she ran out of beans right up pile on the wall there 40 plus 30 said Gaz and yeah really really good effort and the men's competition is back on now after the cleaning break Hamish McArthur from Great Britain joins us on the wall to start his semi-final campaign 17 year old Hamish from Yorkshire he's putting some very good performances over the last couple of months he was second in the Youth World Championships in Arco this year in Boulder would you believe holder and surprise the birdied so yeah let's see what young Hamish can do this is a great place for him to be competing in front of essentially a home crowd big big cheer from the audience when he came out that's hope he's feeling good nice and confident through this initial three clips at this bottom wall which is a relatively tall tall climber so I'll benefit him through some of these moves another Russian and as Akita has just been announced to the local crowd here from on the right side of Warren the women's competition just as we focus on Hamish at the moment and some close-ups of what let's start that border problem heading towards hold 15 just over the lip starts to look like just as we zoom out of it moving up to hold 15 that greens sort of sausage there with the thumb catch on it see if Hamish can get through this kind of nerve a little lower section my small screen we've got Anna Zack ena progressing at the bottom wall back to Hamish they always do that first match and punchy over the top of the right hand and a hard cross back with the left good effort there seen a few scalps fall at that point making an early clip they're using this height this is our perception now with this yeah just gotta get the feet saw but to flip that left hand see just moves back down and he will make that flip there we go over on the big screen now Anna making progress into this compression volume tow hook release as we have seen gets on on this section Hannah she was just ascribing even flicking the left foot out as a high-risk move or dropping that right toe in and then having to do the big release she's just in between two methods at the moment does go for the big chop out and does really well commit it - it does need to be if you can get that method it's quite a clean quick way through that wall could bold a problem because we're moving up in this field for the women we are seeing some of the stronger climbers take some of the stronger options through that section on the black volume Ami's still going strong and the small screen they're putting the good performance at the moment not too much wobbling not too much battling yet what I'm sure he's trying hard this is where it starts to get fuller Hamish yeah I think it's gonna be a pretty disappointed with that it's Marcus Nimrod Marcus who's still up the top with 35 Plus with Jim Polk on 35 as well so yeah Hamish quite away down there unfortunately disappointing for him I think with the results it started to have this year would have looked for quite a bit more there she had a lift into the arena with Hamish this morning so he was up 27 is just as we lose Anna as a keener again really slowed down through that black barrel and unfortunately Louisa really low down let's have a look at the results as they are then Nimrod Marcus a could see 35 Plus Jim's Pope as I said just behind him on 35 Martine Berg aunt Matteo posh to meet you for curing of and David Marko Columbo finished the top six it will be eight who go through to the final Hamish you've just seen and Dave Behrens they're currently in the top eight but that's definitely set to change Tina Johnson half says did it take that high point away from Nico Potter pover from Ukraine 40-plus it's a pretty decent score and you feel like with over half the field still to come in the women's semi-final obviously plenty of climbers up around the 40s it is 50 the top move here nor went out 56 plus along with two others there as well and there we can see Hannah Schubert just down in 7th places she'd put in a a good fight and but is currently in seventh Lucca Posca now joins us in the men's competition now a second slovenian now in the men's field very excited to see on the women's route in a minute well just as she drops into the shop there Laur agora from italy absolutely blew the field away in the World Youth Championships now in our code just a few weeks ago at the end of August yeah Lara has definitely been on farm at the moment and she did struggle a lot obviously with that jump on the women's qualification but she did make it through to the semi-final so I'm sure we'll see a good performance from her but at the moment we are with Luca on the men's route and Lara on the small screen little bit awkward this section that transference that shoulder and then to adjust the hands back round again he seems to the left this clip quite late and then obviously we know this Boulder is coming up here punchy section lost a few climbers on it yeah Lucas going really well at the moment was just thirteen from Quran last week so he's looking potentially for a finals place here at the European Championship she would have fought it's got a lot of work to do if he wants to get there seal our Agora just on the lower screen such an exciting climber all they say one to watch in the future but she's almost one to watch already now as Luca just so slightly different sequence there to get up to that left hand cream uses the right heel instead of the left foot down on that one where he's got it at the moment and essentially quite clever climbing there good flexibility to help him get through that tricky section well now River Lara Lara's still only 18 years old and she's climbed a couple nine days she was the second youngest to climb the grade of nine eight climb that a fourteen years old that's how she get some of this awkward release move looks like she's going to go off the really high feet three different sequences available now through that lower section really just show her level though with that very fast commitment to bring in the right foot in probably suited the the size for velara it's great that this actual challenging section to this black volume just seemed to actually fit all body types which is really nice to see yeah it's a question of trying to see how quickly climbers can calculate on which one's going to work for them and getting through that lower bowl problem as fast as possible and lorig or like I said they're Gaza's now it's a good example of how to think fast and just get on with it so it should be quite happy now she's on these crimps she moves up this gray section of the lead wall here in Edinburgh International climbing center the big moves for her but still looking quite solid very comfortable through those bad foot those bad feet solid there yeah quite happy happy where others were not so happy on those feet there's that really awkward resting position that we saw a Demetri keyring of in Lucas same struggle really there is a tiny little chip there for the left foot as well it was just a smear on the volley but it's a one screw screw on just I do how small it is yeah a few people a couple of people have used that toe hook that others have chosen that method that the looper went for it's left heel now dig that heel in weight on it cleanly through that section so it's 35 plus is the high point here in the men's competition that's up through this entire orange section in right up into the green set of pinches that's just a shot at the moment it's got a little bit of a way to go here with one minute 40 left so he's pretty short on time but enough to get past the high point that's for sure it's a really big powerful smear through the right foot into that shoulder and they're really nicely lacrosse through this it could work here from there it says Lowery Gore now trying to head towards Tina Johnson half stars is a high point of 40-plus that's all the way through that section of blue volumes on the small screen there Lucca progressing well as well he's moved up into fourth place 34 battling for the high point with both climbers here this is really good to see two climbers at very high in the wall at the moment Lara just really struggling with that foot slip still going though just from short of the high point I was interested in for now ago and you could possibly goes as well they pretty much felt left on the wall there 39 plus the unofficial scorer pops up there would probably be absolutely bang-on though 39 plus yeah interesting I think now record would look to fire a little bit harder there I shot it over a minutes ago I was also the feeling the pump through that section of blue volumes Lucca takes a high point there on count back 35 plus yeah that's where we are in the women's competition today you can see Lowry Gore just on 39 plus behind Tina Johnson half sir so she got one more move higher than an hour ago there and Nikki are currently sitting in that Ferb do remember it's eight that go through to this afternoon's final now we have the unconfirmed standings of Luca and Nimrod both falling on the same hold but Luca moves ahead on count back Jim Pope still in the mix of it they're sitting in third place 35 Martin began 34 plus Martin Matthias posh 29 plus Dmitry 27 David Marco Colombo 27 and Hamish McArthur also in the top eight on 28 plus superb now to see one of the legends in the game from Slovenia Mina markavitch back on the wall me no just once so many medals over the years somebody who's looking to win a lot more William posy the local hero climbs here at the Rafah arena so he's obviously got plenty of support hopefully he could just block all that out though and just focus on the job in hand he's been real about is a kind of aims and ambitious here he wants to win this competition why not try and win won it at your home wall which is every opportunity this could be it for Wilbur's it depends on how he deals with the pressure it does seem to like a like an audience when he climbs likes to showboat a little bit on the wall and yeah well Bose has been having a superb season and Mina markavitch has had a superb career so let's follow the bow for them and see how they get on now in this semi-final Almina 31 years old made the podium 66 times and still competing at this level in this semi-final that's amazing to see the old master on the right-hand side and the young pretender on the left in bosie both hoping to make it through to the final this afternoon those are looking quite comfortable as the approach is this initial Boulder problem from the men's semi-final yeah interest just tend to climb really fast but it's gonna slow down a little bit on this next section just to make sure that makes no mistakes around hold 16 that's what it's on by the moment the right hand just have to try pretty hard they have to dig in a little bit yeah I think it all comes down to how well you do that thumb swap on that little jib underneath that volume you didn't seem to get it - well then but it's through it yeah meanness through that lower barrel section as well importantly wheel bosey just pulling up for the row for a really nice quick double clip there you're fishing climbing here at the moment from will I see if you can get this little left flip sorted left foot just pings a little bit doesn't look too comfortable in there at the moment ends up a really high left foot really super awkward position certainly going to use a little bit of unexpected power there and its feet are skittering a little bit here from will that's the biggest barn door we've seen on that move so far nobody's gonna have an immense struggle on his hands here you could see it on his face oh I always take the opportunity to sit for a little bit right yeah that was really hard but I'm I'm still smiling yeah it's got himself into a really good little resting position here actually straight legs on the right arm and then just pushing down parmi down underneath that underside of that triangular volume good thinking there from wheel just to kind of you're not really using any power in the forearms or the biceps just to hold yourself in that position so just using the joints and the body itself to find a good resting position as mean I was really pushing through on this route now he has made it through that skits you section with the band footholds would be quite solid I see both climbers well on the small screen meaner on the big screen both progressing it quite well yeah this semi fan is really coming to life now big support big shouts for will from all of his friends in the arena I mean is just getting the job done at the moment hold 31 now look 99.9% of people in this arena are behind well on this route still looking around laughs into the crowd looks so comfortable on the wheel on the wall wheel bosie this is wills wall just as the look likely struggling turns around and has a little bit of a chat with the emcee in the arena Mina fires up to that right hand now that's hold 34 and forget a high point is for two plus six more moves to get into that and six really hard ones in this volcano base volume section [Applause] just making that cross through there slide to head into those green pinches those green holes start to give us an idea of where the high point is it's up there amongst that first section of green holes good show at the moment from both climbers on these routes over there way to the cloud just thank you very much for the support meanwhile Mina is still going strong she enters into this burly sequence now that left hand was slapping into that volume flat there no real hole to get hold of searching for that crimp on top she knows it's there that's it she locates it well Femina needs a right hand on that crimp really and what if she were just trying to shuffle match it Mina certainly does like the crimp likes that old-school style of route she's trying to work out how she gets the right hand on it she just go for the match using a right foot really nicely there as a toe hook as well now pushes into hold 40 this could be a high point here from any mark which does get the high point for if you want now Markovic pushing that gray section just above you can see there that's close to their head wall now it has got trend out right words and a shuffle across these volumes at the top remember is quite a few more moves Delta coast 50 is the top here it's a bit of an idea of where she was in the wall but she's looking good she's really enjoying this style as Ken said she really favors the old-school style on the crimps it looks quite comfortable in a position he's got two holes next to each other there so it can take a little bit of an opportunity to have a little bit of a shake out now it looks like she's going to move that left hand across to the far right hand hold and does it nicely is he's really classic Mina Markovic here but she's got about four times eight seconds it's probably going to time out here Mina virtually just gonna try and get as many holes as she can this is looking amazing she's got two seconds to go to get another hole this she's gonna get hide that's it doesn't look like she'll forget given that touch on that volume I think the clock finished before that movement yeah superb effort that's gonna be around hold 43 just under judges scored as a 42 plus at minetti's unconfirmed and so it really good classic with a climbing there from Mina Markovic really thoroughly enjoyable to watch now she goes 43 plus I could see we're ahead of the computers gather she'll be very very happy with that performance I mean it's a long time since we've seen that's got a smile on her face very good to see now then over on the men's route we've got Alistair do Val from France makes his appearance stung a little bit why on these two crimps chosen not to go through the cross through I've seen many times before you probably have to make a move back to get these hands the right way around yeah he does go back makes a cross through as he moves into this board a problem sequence by the fifth bolt always as these climbers move up this wall keep your eye on the score on the left-hand side you can see that ticking away as they progress up the route 15 + 16 just as we watch Alistar do power through this section just reflecting a little bit on wheel Bozize performance there he's down in fifth position that member 33 plus the high point it'll be 35 plus so it wasn't a million miles away from that but with the season that wheels had this year a couple of fourth positions on the senior level World Cup so he's gonna be it's as a point of that really that's nice that's currently not a european championship winning kind of score but let's see where he ends up I think we'll Bozize going to be endangered not making the finals here in Rafah unfortunately now really starting to struggle through this section here let's see what he can make doesn't use that flip at all well maybe you will now it looks like it's just gonna push on through yeah it certainly not looked as comfortable as the last couple of athletes through that section but still fighting it so we'll get this little rest with the press but do values stay quite low at the moment he doesn't need to build those feet up everything seems a little bit of a battle at the moment for well loses his right foot there he's off here on the cleaning brake as you can see there in the just the corner of the school board there it's cleaning brake on the women's competitions there you can see this men's school sensei Luke posture and Nimrod mark is still up there on hold 35 plus and you would have thought at some point soon as we get into the real top end of this draw that that high point would be pushed quite a bit higher than that you would have fought some big names still to come but it's a yeah Tim Pope sitting in third position and Martin Bergen just behind him they can see will bode currently down in fifth you say that's probably not gonna be enough to get through to finals of the likes of Martin strannix Bastian lenka Jakob Schubert Yannick flowy ramón de Carranza Berto in his Lopes at a mantra and Sasha laymen's still to come to us yeah a lot of big names Mina Markovic who we are hoping to hear from soon really close to the top of the wall there were 43 plus a fair a couple of sort of really hard moves right at the top of the wall cuz it's 50 moves at the top here on the women's through and Tina Johnson half-cells will be really pleased with that Lara gort's can be interesting with 13 climbers still to come wherever that high point would be push hi guys put you on the spot we've seen Mina Moffat to come out as climb of 13 13 climbers still to come chance of a top on the women's route a chance at the top on the women's route I mean she really seemed to look strong um most of the route there and then when she arrived in that top section there was a lot of hand swaps involved and obviously that'll have taken quite a lot of energy out she was doing a few extra moves and probably what she needed to do that hitting that top section would have suited meaner but obviously she didn't have enough left in the tank to really nail that sequence the first time and get into that top Travis but that top Travis does look extremely sustained back left words at the top of the wall there but yeah we've got a lot of climbers to go and it would be nice to see a top in this semi-final for this women's samoylov joins us from Ukraine excuse me this is a man that likes the crimper some really good results over the years he sort of dropped off the scene a little bit has a had a pretty serious wrist injury that is recovering from and seemingly really not feeling that too much through the qualifiers yesterday let's see how he gets on with this selection of holes just now it's a root set you can see up in the sky there top right hand corner just sorting the women's clean they're cleaning rotating out and they're on the wittiest so it doesn't mean we get to focus on fedot 7th 9th and 11th in the World Cups last year in China in Slovenia still young Freddie s out plenty of time for him to recover from that wrist injured injury completely and get back into the the training regime that these athletes put themselves through 22 time for nine A's I won't mention these favorite shoes but you can certainly see what they are on his feet they're definitely shoes looking steady though as he moves into this section will he do the flip I will keep bumping up the volume is that is a little bit shorter than some of the competitors would probably will look to do the flip no that's why I never make predictions in her lead climbing yeah yeah I mean two sequences they're interesting to see what the route setters think about that afterwards as to which one is the best if they actually did set it as a flip as well it's just a foothold very good angle on that sort of little release move yeah that's like that cut cut of the left foot does take a little bit of energy out of them especially if it goes like with a big rotation further you know making a little bit of progress yeah Federer taking the opportunities just to shake their woes in a few people take a little bit of a rest when you get a little bit back reading through that top section at the moment this section we're very pleased to say that we have Mina markavitch has joined us in the booth after a superb run on the wall 43 plus for Mina and yeah let's hear from her now I mean how did you get on that morning it was nice climb and I will enjoy watching cause to others and support support three more songs living and girls coming out yeah we've definitely got some more strong Savini girls but at the moment that's a high point I thought you'd like that top section with the crimps but you did get a few hands the runway around one surprised me that it was blocked and so I change the smaller one but yeah it was nice you can solve also some things on the way and yeah cool and your predictions do you think we'll see someone to the top of this yeah I think definitely yeah yes cool I think there are more glorious in bag in the game for this but I think we can enjoy and watch very nice and final spot yeah thanks very much for joining us and hopefully we'll see you again this afternoon good performance there well thank you okay so we are back to the action in a few moments time that was a really nice Femina to join us and it's great to see you're still performing so strongly in competitions yeah they can see meaner top of the list at the moment top of the tree 43 plus yeah good effort there from Federer but again kind of falling midsection on the wall we would have thought hoping for a bit more didn't get up to the high point there for Federer just as we as we were talking to Mina you can see some of the names still to come in the women's competition yeah 40 31 plus 31 plus ya can see the rope hang in there as they get ready to do as we get ready to start the ladies again so Mina's prediction is we will get some women to the top of this route maybe a few women she thinks we shall see and Sophie color now from Switzerland join us in the women's competition after the cleaning rotation Australia probably just heard in the background there from the local MC has been announced as well Martin going really well this year and Sophie coloreds also someone who's gone pretty well over the last couple of seasons just to see if this improves the friction after this clean on this women's route these polyurethane holds not everybody's cup of tea sometimes but yesterday it's still desperately cold in here so yeah the sort of short build-up might have been brushed off but still pretty chilly in the arena but not really seen many athletes kind of holding the hands on the back of the necks like we saw in the qualification just trying to keep their fingers warm during the room I think yesterday will have been a bit of a shock to a few of them lower down hands on the back of the neck going off but today probably learnt a little bit from yesterday's experience as to how to manage their warm-up and get ready for this so through into this compression section and quick decisions needed three holes on the left-hand side of this volume streets groans three choices chooses the middle one easily out of that - just underneath the barrel there just to get through seems that climbers are getting through that section easier and easy now - Tran it gets through that lower bolt from on the men's competition you can see him there now he make four of this next on the cut left hand will you bother using it really not that does seem to be the preferred clipping position there as well Johnny looking like is a pretty big dude in a small gap there a weak climber though I'm back in 2016 took some good results second in the World Cup in meiringen 2015 second in the world cup in Munich as well yeah it's not shy in the guns well he said there's a bouldering result so yeah it's really good to see my strength back on the lead board has made finals made final Sherman II this year I'm converting from the boulder wall onto the lead [Music] last competition II did well in was villas took a ninth place very respectable and Sofie moving quite well now into this section now undercuts moving right words with the bad feet lots of choice last few climbers have looked pretty comfortable on these footholds now tries for a cheeky knee bar they're quite comfortable on that lower of the three footholds there with a right foot it's happy on that one it seemed to be a more of a confusing section of footholds that rather than a three useful ones there's one good one too bad looks like it's one of those situations we just need to make a decision push fluids we lose Stronach load down as well very early there very early fall for Martha Stronach I don't think it were too happy with with that performance yeah about third left on the meant that we haven't seen anybody kind of up there yet we've got six climbers that was a twenty five-plus for Martin yeah seven climbers still to go in the men's competition women's ones fairway behind at the moment yeah 29 plus for Martin puts him into an unconfirmed seventh place a little slip I'm sure what be too happy with that but I'm Murray still making steady progress here into the Waco's a bit of in decision as to which foot to use cut loose that's not going to help it too much yeah the likes of Nimrod Marcus and Jim Pope who are currently leading the way along with Luca potica know sitting pretty well at the moment they're going to be pretty pleased with seven climbers still to get still to go we're starting to get those there unconfirmed final spots already in the men's competition that's a answer the caller now just push it into this top section getting close to a second position on the wall at the moment of the hard release that with that left hand on the flat side of that volume goes to try and find a bit of a knee bar and Falls there [Music] a couple of cut losses bit of battle put around four at the moment yeah not bad let's see what Sebastian heard NK can do for that seem Germany great to see Sebastian back out there on the big circuit and fighting hard hopefully popular with the crowd yes Sebastian always climbs with his heart on his chest they will be good to see him put in a good performance today's we've seen him climb very very well in the past and sometimes not so well so results too soon to have gone up and down it was really up for quite a long time especially through the youth he has won youth World Championships and European Youth Championships here actually in R a photo he's actually quite familiar with the arena here and here's senior World Cups as well made finals all over the world so let's see how he gets on with this route hopefully you can find something to really get stuck into sebastien quite solidly through dat little bowl dissection that troubled a lot of climbers earlier on now looking very comfortable in the moment in decision here as to whether to flip until happy with that smear for the right foot either for standing on the volume gone for the flip he's probably not as tall as some of the other climbers that have chosen to miss that no I statically up to the underside of that volume that's the first climb we've seen really just pulling down on that right-hand side pulling the volume just to reach up into the underside of that next volume of these right hands now on that's it and on the small screen we've just been joined by julia fisher from austria sebastien going really smoothly so far it's putting really controlled power ten more moves and he'll be up in two yeah top end of this drawer at the moment 35 plus is the high point two climbers on that Julia fees are now just working away for this lower section and we just lose Sebastian out of nowhere absolutely out of nowhere just comes down it's holding these hands under his armpits just gives you an idea probably got cold fingers up there we were just talking about that guys and all of a sudden someone's coming down suffering from cold fingers the first one yeah a little slip as well that foot just seemed to explode Julia making nice progress though across this compression volume doesn't seem to be an issue now for this top half of the field it's very solid through there yes soon as much some of the big names start dropping again Luke Ithaca Nimrod Marcus Jim poke all around hold 35 they're looking very good position now well yeah some of those guys are going to be in the final six climbers still to come looks like Luke Lou Caputo and Marcus at least will be into this afternoon's final Jim will be sitting there now with both fingers yeah crossed both hands anybody can slip he will be through not to wish ill on these opponents of course we get there on merit well yeah when we do have a big top six to come yeah ketubah Yannick flowy Roman de grande Alberto he knows Lopez Adam Andra and Sasha Lehman that is not a low quality field to finish off with is it absolutely not 15th climber out foster is still going pretty well here that's a good idea of how bad those footholds are yeah the left one is the only one you can stand on top of the other jewel textured around the rim and it's a tiny little Lodge in the middle for your foot which everyone basically seems to have skipped happier just to miss them out let's just put a load of confuses in there more than anything else really smoothly it's this root just really nice actually just really builds classic endurance route it's getting some really good angles at the moment just to give you an idea of exactly what these holes are like my upon the raw hold 30 now for Elia 20 moves still to go Jakov Schubert the most meddled climber in the game in the men the field has just been announced the crowd he starts his campaign there we have Jakob on the small screen and absolute legend of the game still he just seems like yeah Cobbs been around forever he's still putting in these performances and these amazing results how does she is Julia she's looking really strong there that wants the feet on the cut loose didn't quite hit that volcano quite in the good spot of the back hit it feet can't couldn't rebuild the feet doesn't mean we get to focus for now on yeah Cobb whilst we wait for give me a oh for France to join us in the women's competition so yeah I've got a yeah Cobb will be looking to put down a good climb a good result at this semi-final he wants to show his best make it through to that final this afternoon first of all he's got to get through this little board a problem that we've seen cause a few issues with some of the previous climbers so few climbers left in this men so it's a really kind of nervous watch now as with some of the big names try and fight for a finals place and it seems so easy to slip at most places on this route yeah God looking strong through those two shoulder press crimp moves making a double clip before he moves up into the volumes looks down at the smear on that lower volume goes early into the flip no indecision there on the route reading [Applause] okay you can see on his face a certainly having to fight a little bit here Schubert it's one of those climbers going through to the Tokyo games next year frankly ridiculous world championships out in Japan seemingly was just always on the podium yeah he's definitely an all-rounder in the competition game as Camille Boucher joins us from France [Applause] [Music] [Applause] so yeah cough 48 lead medals nine Boulder World Cup medals so much experience in this man 9b red pointer on the rock actually witnessed him climb in the and earth all crew Sharma's routes in Santa Linea last year super impressive to see amazing how he can switch it up between these two very very different disciplines looking pretty comfortable at the moment though on this volume taking the moment to rest yeah he's managed to sort out a pretty decent rest here yeah Cobb this is gonna be really good considering the high point it's not that much further from where he is two more quick draws and he will be up and right at the top of the leaderboard well that's it yeah Cobb currently sitting in seventh well 30 plus the high point is 35 plus and he's currently held by Luca Potter car he's just resting a moment around hold 28 now he will surely just launch into it and quick climbing through this next section [Applause] I'm told thirty on the underside they see how fierce this section is big crossovers really fingery Super Bowl 3y atmosphere was starting to breathe pretty hard now as he pushes through into this first of these green holds hold 33 35 Plus is the high point currently held by Luca potica yak a few but just flicks off a little bit of pump out of the right arm now pushes out left and falls superb effort though from yak or but it will be a 35 plus as well probably yeah it looks like he has moved into first place with that 35 plus joint with lou caputo car from slovenia it goes ahead on count back three climbs on 35 plus now didn't seem like a an individually really hard move out of nowhere though justice seems to be a bit of a build up through that section men's room really stern here hold 49 is the top and some of the big guns in the game falling at hold 35 plus a new roots has put on a really tough semi-finals here in the Pittman's as well a bit number 206 Camille Boucher from France making good progress here it's looking quite comfortable at the minute very good very close to the common high points I'd shoulder press there into that Waco first big Waco is hold 34 she's looking pretty tired here it's where we lost the previous glamour on this sequence hits the fun keep the feet on importantly that's where Healey official win you can see from that that camera shot how steep this section is now and this move up with the right hand it's that screw John jib on the volume nails it little foot slip every move just a massive fight now really gone to war on this route all of a sudden couldn't hold the cut loose couldn't get the foot back on to try to step through into that waco chose to cut the feet happy round hold 36 you know and very very good good performance by Camille should be pretty happy with that I think one of the standout athletes from 2019 now Yannick flowy starts his campaign on the men's route Yannick third at the world championships in Hachioji Japan just a few weeks ago seems like a few weeks ago might even be longer now time flies when you're having fun I can August he was really one of these kind of surprise performers out in that championships and he just all of a sudden and he's just up there really right up there with the very best in both bouldering and seemingly in the lead now as well they were talking quite a bit yesterday just about the competition to join Alex Magus if there's an opportunity for a second German to make it into the top 20 for the Olympic selection spots Yannick flowy it could easily be one of those guys even though everybody has been talking only about Yan Hoya all of a sudden if you can get through this next was this Yannick flowy seems to be going really well this season yeah it didn't put into great performance on this route and Yannick has already passed yearns high point which he comfortably through that volume you never really know how much to read into people's results competition to competition with such big events coming up do you wonder if people are just toned down the training a little bit just waiting to get to that selection event interludes it's you know a lot of athletes hold where they are in their game at the moment quite close to their chest and don't give too much away and it's flowy though seems to be just based on results really going well this season strong move through those volumes and a bit of indecision for a moment too doesn't stop shake too long there keeps moving a lot of people have tried that toe hook but shied away from it very quickly yes a Callen from Slovenia starts just as we lose Yannick flowy or sudden this men's come to it's got super interesting people falling quite low on the route all of sudden getting that hold 35 Plus is looking like that's gonna be enough to get through to the finals mr. Callen from Slovenia now through this lower section of four identical volumes second of our Quartet of Slovenian females on this route really is amazing the depth of the field they've got in the Slovenian team obviously and you're gone Brett he's not with us this weekend but we do have still some very very strong climbers climbing under the Slovenian flag all right sir yeah potentially big news in that Yaakov Schubert Luca potica nimród markers and Jim Pope are currently a top four we've only four climbers still to come looks like we're gonna be seeing that lot in the men's final tonight it's a yeah good news for fans of those guys three boat goes into a temporary first position with 35 Plus even though that's a tie score just used to count back to the qualifiers yesterday men's competition fairway ahead of the women's at the moment just in terms of the running order women's very much slower than the men's just to how high they're actually getting on the wall interesting latasha's just chose a slightly harder method through that volume then probably one of the hardest who did the move out off the the lower of the three screw ons you can just see now in the small screen romantic orange 36 years old absolute legend keeps on putting in performance after performance after performance such a good climber very tenacious and really does like the small hole so maybe this roots will be happy Street which I'll see both climbers making steady progress at the moment we're with Roman the fullscreen making that section a little bit hard for him there for himself it just needs a shuffle that left hand along a little bit as well if he's makes room it's just there's a little shuffle let's make a bit of space back and we lose him Raimondi groans fools never seem to climb a fall around hold 15 for quite some time that's it will be really annoyed with that I think he chose to jump for that volume that meant that he didn't locate that thumb and then couldn't make the fun thumb swap to locate it with the right hand making the next move super hard it's a huge moment here in this the end of getting towards the end of this men's semi-final and again spots opening up for people who are coming out really early on in the competition with just three climbers still to go men through it's looking like a particularly savage one at the moment but still three opportunities to see a new high point there's Jeff Allen who would get to focus on now but he moves up into this section of yellow volumes three men to go I think William Bowie will be sitting there with these fingers crossed as to what happens with this last three climbers today we were saying this really didn't look like it done enough but maybe could be wrong on that one very surprising to see people all of a sudden falling on these lower sections absolutely furious with that one that's just still looking very comfortable at the moment though another one of the very strong Slovenian team we've got on show this weekend Alberto in as Lopez gets introduced to the crowd the third from last man to compete here means semifinals nearly over just where the female route starts to pick it kick in as we go through these volcanoes 36 there at the moment she's had that with her right hand there it is again pretty tricky move here but she's looking really pretty good at this stage good flexibility bridging quite wide on the legs but just not completely willing to pounce across that this next girl off she goes now locates it yeah bit of a drag on the Rope there cheek a little bit of advantage from the rope I think now flips the fee up and see again another climber who using that sort of bicycle between the feet their left foot on the front right toe hook behind as we saw with fellow Slovenian Mina Markovic just has her left hand on that crimp needs to shuffle across try and get the right hand on there if you can look so she can try and get a bit of a nice tack [Applause] nicely done good fight oh that was a very good battle from Jessa she moves in to unconfirmed second place with a 40-plus but all eyes are on Alberto he knows Lopez the young Spanish climber a real big hit this season he's putting some amazing fights this guy for such a young climb it shows so much experience strength and fight it's amazing to see hopefully we shall see him put in a really good fight on this route there's no stranger to the big stage already at such a young age they said it's been one of the superstars of this 2019 men's field so he put on some good battle that's for sure just see they're just behind the clock has it been an appeal against kim youjung [Music] yeah so we could just see on the graphic there the Khmer Rouge's there wasn't a peel it's been accepted we're not sure what the actual appeal was at the moment but yeah live graphic sir just showing that there wasn't a pill and it was successful there's a nice little cross through a good angle on that for our birth oh you knows Lopez still looking pretty good here starting to puff the cheeks a little bit but getting close to the the sort of real top end of the draw here that's hold 34 couple more moves and he's pretty much guaranteed a spot in the final that's hold 35 35 Plus it's the high point can he find it out just short of that hold 36 Oh it'd be a 35 Plus also we're Albertine his low peasant we'll see him later on this afternoon in the finals oh yeah that's the fourth climber on the 35 plus that bumps Alberto up into first place on count back it's done what he needed to do let's see a fandom it's Luke over from Slovakia can do that two climbers left in the men's competition Madame Andhra and Sasha layman they were the top two qualifiers from yesterday's qualification round a bit Evander this year on the International Circuit move in the boulder and the lead a really good turn a Munich this year 11th there let's see how she gets on on this barrel section this is the one that's the first first point of a initial challenge she's choosing to bump up there's no there's another few crimps around that left-hand side decision here but you can see on the small screen and possibly here from the crowd we've just had Adam Andra make it to the start of his semi-final route yeah Alejandra the current chief has 19 lead world champion winner of the Koran World Cup just last week in Slovenia has been noted as possibly the best all-around climber in the world see what he can make of this semifinals around can we see anybody get past hold 35 blast burn dimetric over just just struggling with this sequence as we've seen for a number of different athletes here just always ended up going all the way back down to the top of that selection of identical fiberglass volumes there as Andrei launches his campaign at the bottom of the wall obviously we saw a top from Andhra yesterday well now we're gonna see a top today well this has certainly got a long way to go up there on that head wall on that very steep head well Banda is really struggling at the moment on this semi-final with women not going to welfare at the minute she's burning a lot of time a lot of energy choosing a very very different sequence from anybody else here at this point but she has made it through yes we made that workers good thinking they're from bandits like a fourth sequence that we've seen through that lower section now as Andra push it up to this kind of nerve a little bowler problem Oh fifteen is the slope of just above with the orange foam catch on it let's see if he can get through there so where we lost the rahman - groans just a few minutes ago hundra had a big heel slip on a movie yesterday so what if he's just thinking about the heels a little bit that's up for a toe and has the push to the crimp pushes a lot of weight through that left foot makes it works wonder does get through that section looks like he was going to go left hand again there which would have been a bit of a mistake so got to see some faster decision-making there by under as he went up came back down no no real dizzying just make that choice yes no and he's through that sequence quite smoothly into this little flip with the left hand does the flip Vanda manages to get out of that rest now it starts pushing into the sort of second element of this route still quite low down though for Vanda now stands up it goes really fast into the stand-up actually gave that a pretty high level of commitment into the undercut we have seen some of the climbers just go quite slowly up into that section Sebastian I think he managed to ecstatically but that's the rest that we saw will Bose Ian as where we can see the taller climbers really comfortable in that position it's under par minc'd of resting on the shoulders a little bit on that rest the right foot while straight as andra now moves out the rest and pushes on probably aware of the time here it's a particularly high wall here in World Cup stands it slightly higher than the 15 meters that we're kind of used to it just climbed quite long certainly higher than Japan that's for sure it's a very short wall this is 12 vertical meters there so yeah back to a pretty big wall here kurama's pretty small as well so Andre just kind of you would have fought just thinking about time a little bit shaking moving resting but trying to keep keep some sort of movement going Vander's keeping it going as well they're about level on the wall at the moment is to give you a little bit of an idea where they are in halfway Andres is taking that rest that's where we saw Shubert resting as well so both of these guys feeling pretty comfortable at this stage on the route based in action this now for the crowd with both climbers really high on the route Adam under it leaves the rest now goes into this shoulder cross new sequence I mean very close to the men's high point then see how much Adams got left in the tank I'm sure he's got a few gallons go I can see 33 plus from both climbers now both shake it out the left hands autumn on Adam Andres pushing towards a high point now that's hold 34 35 plus is a whole bunch of guys on that at the moment that's moving off of this next hole round towards that side pool orange cycle on the orange panel lobster go down for a quick shake now push it in to hold 35 Adam Andre looking to try and win this semi-final around first planet is pure hell 36 remember not disappointing at the moment he's got a long way to go for gonna find the top here but Adam Andrews already through to tonight's final just misses the right hand this is a savagely difficult and let me find a route and Van Damme it took over we lose heads were around hold 35 should be in the top eight at the moment that was some amazing action there Adam throwing that left foot out trying to hit that jib on the end of the volume you didn't quite plant the jib and then opposite strand drop the hand right in right hand in as well and couldn't quite hold the position you read it really well though Mike he seemed to know what he was doing there and there we go we've got the stores on the doors at the moment we've got Adam Ondra leading the field in 38 plus and then that cluster of athletes in the 35 plus Albertine as Lopez Jakob Schubert Luca potaka and Nimrod Marcus with Jim Pope sitting well in sixth place at the moment Martin bro granting that slip from Slovenia 34 plus and William bosey bringing up the field yeah he's gonna be the one who's waiting nervously there with Sasha lame and here's the anyone who could knock him out so he could have two Brits through to define depending on how Sasha goes in the women's competition not much really confirmed at the moment but you would have thought being a markavitch with a really good score 43 plus surely it's gonna be a hard one to beat up there at the moment and uh yeah quite a few guys around 40 plus and 39 plus 38 Nick had put up over who was out first climber out still sitting in seventh and down the front of the wall Adam Andra as a had to have an official undo is not for me walking away absolutely boxed and he put in a really big fright that gives you an idea of how hard this semi-final is I mean and mantras on cited some some big numbers outdoors and yeah them to give that absolutely everything so it's really good to see the climbers challenged in in an endurance way I would say here rather than some tricks and some kind of thrills and spills just absolutely pulling down and just flaming up the forearms really nicely well here we go we've got the last climber out for the men's field such a layman from Switzerland Christine schranz from Austria just behind her she was going really well yesterday ninth and Brienne Somme for Christine good results for her a few decent results 11th for the Innsbruck world champions 2018 as well in our hometown definitely different pace of these two routes we still have another seven competitors after Christine on the ladies route and this is the final climber we will see on the men's semi-final routes Sasha from Switzerland so will we see Sasha lay a big result down here in this semi-final and try and keep the pressure on Adam Eshel under qualification rounds and will he take the semi-final away as well we shall see it's early does for him is it the third clip one way to go yet yeah it's actually mean well cut winner he doesn't mind hearing that next to his name beat so slightly mixed bag since then he said under odds results been up and down a little bit do you wonder how his sort of psyche changed after winning that World Cup there's a lot of pressure on him all of a sudden to be regularly making finals in performing potentially making podiums but it proves that the field is so deep and so strong though it's it's even if you have made if I was even if had won a World Cup we certainly not guarantee anything this is the the tricky lower section through that quite steadily definitely a bit of a wake-up call that Boulder problem there I think low on this men's route yeah really physical crimping lowdown Christine just starts to sort of get on board with this big barrel volley and let's see what method she uses through this section doesn't look like she's gonna go for that high right foot left for our option but gonna be pretty tall to make that work so yeah it's a really confusing section just as a sash alignment does manage to control that swing slightly nervous moment there for Sasha Christine just trying to figure out what to do here it seems to be just not necessarily that hard this section here in the women's group it seems to be really confusing as to all the different options I think it's quite I think most of the climb is when they arrive here you can't see that left hand side and you possibly don't remember there's actually three holes in three different ways of how to take them and go around the corner but just finally has committed to something yeah a little bit of the angle change on the wall there Christine France is just used there's a tiny little bit of a metal rail fighting quite hard just to get through that does look like she's managed to get through hasn't got a clip now does though yeah that will have taken a lot of power out of Christine's arms I think hopefully she'll be able to manufacture a little rest in this next groove but she won't be too happy with that so take a moment to just settle back down get the breathing back under control try and get a bit of blood back in those forearms in the men's competition Saturday is fine I'll climb her out 33 plus is what he needs to get past or equal bill bosie sitting there 33 plus at Murray in 8th position so not sure if he wants to get through that just to give you an idea where that is it's through the orange section that's just ahead of him you can see that on the small screen and moving off of the first green pinch so as both climbers just take a moment to shake out hopefully we can see Sasha to seeing if he can find a final spot first each trans did really well through that ball to problem now just take a cue address but they will go with sash lame you see the first of the green holds up and right that's hold 33 so he needs to get himself into position where it's moving off of that guaranteed spot for a final position but the locals will be feeling 4-wheel Posey now as Sasha looks like he's cruising at the moment into that hold 32 that's hole 33 just needs to move off this that surely will and that will be guaranteed for Sasha Lehman to make himself another finals that you see it will go as he gets knocked out [Applause] well well we'll certainly be a little bit disappointed with that but he did put in a very good performance but Sasha keeps on pushing but not far enough didn't get to the point where he could challenge Adam Andra for the high point their search asset Sasha takes another 35 plus joining Alberto Jakob Luca and Nimrod on that 35 plus all finding their positions on count back from the qualification from it yesterday but Adam Andhra top of the tree there with a very very respectable 38 plus what a good performance from Adam but we still have Christine trance still on the wall and still climbing quite strong after initial problem or to around the black volume down the right of her she was managed to regain some composure you can see from that angle her bad those feet are the route setters have chosen very uncomfortable very different mental challenge when you suddenly face or some cheeky feet that but just do that section she needs the motor a little bit as well at this point she's got 50 seconds or so on the clock so I don't think she's really going to challenge for the high point at the moment on this but the crowd are giving her some support she needs to move fast though and she really does want to get up with a chance of a final position that she is on 32 now she's in currently into 14th place but a long way off this final still another 23 seconds and we lose Christine strands there and she is placing 14th on 34 so I'm pretty sure she won't be too happy with that and it looks like I am joined at the table by Adam Andre you pretty happy with that Adam oh yeah it was a kind of rude which was very sketchy and on the top of that I think today it's much more humid inside the gym and the lower half all the way up to the first undercling rest it was super sketchy and I'm really glad I didn't fall it was more kind of like a playing roulette you couldn't really hesitate he just really had to go for it I even made a few mistakes but luckily I recovered in the undercling and then gave it all my best well we did have a lot of climbers struggle on that match on the on the green volume that involved a little fun catch as well that looked super hard there and I actually that was the biggest mistake that I made that I didn't use the chip and instead I was just using heel hook and and in the very last second I decided to switch for just the toe on the top of the green thing and I think it was much better to step on the lower chip cool okay interesting and yeah I mean you you've got the high point there but there's still a lot of route to go there it was a pretty hard route yeah for a semi final I think it was pretty hard because I was really pumped there and I think those 10 moves to go are still really really hard and I can't really recover that well unless there was kind of like a finger lock or maybe bad hand Jim in the next crack where it kind of fell but I don't think it was it's very likely I don't think there was much resting of that and and how I mean the temperature how was the temperature on the cold and humid and that's what made the friction kind of tricky I don't know I guess like it was cold but still you had the feeling you want to choke up every single move and I don't think like my skin is like any too dry or too humid it's pretty good it's just like it's hard to deal with the humidity here well it was very good to see you put in such an excellent performance and sitting at the top of the leaderboard at the moment we're going to see you this afternoon in the final well I hope you recover well and it was actually really tiring rude as well because you really had to struggle the for the lower bid and then you had to recover and then kept on going that's kind of like it makes more kind of total fat EGH we didn't notice that you were struggling till inside the rope when you came down to the ground so it's always good to see that thanks very much shadow inks and we'll get back to the action so back with the action we now have from France loose do day yeah loose to our deep here put it here from Adam but they haven't got pump let you say again you have Mickey wait I mean Adams always motivated no matter what has happened he's always taking positives out of every experience and he basically just seems to relish the battle there and always relish the challenge this is a position we've not seen yet looks actually quite comfortable in there yeah she said a real one to watch here loose thread her superb athlete and sort of really pushing into the senior level events now and going really well also just 15 years old first at the Youth World Championships at the end of August oh she's yeah super super strong one of the big hopefuls for the French team cuz yeah just trying to warm her fingers up a little bit there is like Adam said it's kind of humid and cold in here at the moment kind of the worst of both worlds she also plays the guitar and sings maple can get a song out of her if she does well and podiums this afternoon up here from River tune DJ's not had many hits today so maybe we can bring her up big bounce up to that left hand for loose hopefully she's not really lost the feeling in those fingers Adam was speaking about the conditions there it was quite cold he does like that but feels it's a little bit not only cold but some little bit humid 'ti in the arena a bit slip there from loose to re they're just managed to recover but you're a sports like that over grip all of a sudden it's really fighting out of nowhere here loose gets that flip for the left hand though hopefully so you can just kind of tone it down a little bit and just start to relax are to relax and to move to that hard though [Applause] it's not too far away from the meet at the route though as we move into these awake hoes managing to get a little bit of composure back there hold 33 that's the left hand there hold both Isaac first of these volcanoes nice little pants over the left hand big cut loose and importantly we sing cut loose on that move before we get some feet stripped back on moved up into 13th place at the moment of 35 quickly moving fast suddenly a great farmers been put in high lose karate and sketchy such a fighter on the wall and she really show their class there could see she was struggling with cold fingers quite low down on the rear I'm pretty sure she'll be glad to get a coat back on now it was a good battle fifth place at the moment for loose 38 plus six climbers still to come a lot of watchings do a lot nervous waiting there for used to out eat didn't go too well for on that bottom half of the route but she did seem to pick up the pace and switch you on if only that start would have been a little bit smoother maybe would have seen her a few moves higher yeah Minah Markovic already confirmed her place in the finals six climbers still to come eight going through you can see the current standings Mina Markovic after Karen Johnson half-size on 40 plus as well now Rikuo it's gonna be watching nervously along with Tina lose to a day you can see her fifth place with 38 plus yeah good effort from her will it be enough it's certainly not going to bother trying to predict that one but a good fight nonetheless and that's the main thing that she managed to put in a pretty decent battle Lin Vandermeer next from the Netherlands [Music] [Applause] if you have just joined this as Perry Mike Langley life here in the Rafah arena the Edinburgh International climbing center up in Scotland for the European lead semi finals alive in the men's competition has concluded looking forward to that final later on it's a handful of women left on their side of the arena on the right hand side Lynn Vanderloo yeah just beginning her attempt on this woman's the semi-final she's the third bolt at the moment through these quite spectacular blue and black macro volumes start you can see there the live score the left-hand side old going up to that left hand is it pretty the fear stand up move this since she looked really uncomfortable just as she went for that is blocked as well up there the crimp stacked on top of another crimp too early nervy moved this when it does seems to take the climbers minutes to get through this lower section very slow bit of climbing very tricky and awkward lower section chooses for a different foot position this time steadily through it she's looking to go left at this point early doors we've seen like four different methods through this section a lot of holes and a lot of sequences for the step in and across nice and solid through their performance really here so far from linman is twenty years old thirty four fountain quran last week so she doesn't so far based on qualification anyway she's improved on that performance [Music] still quite a way to go in this women semi-final though we have another five climbers to come after Lin Vandermeer lots of big names a head full of strong slovenians and like for her burn at the top of the field and obviously Molly Thompson Smith from Team GP looking to secure a place in this afternoon's final but meanwhile it's all action all eyes on Lin Vandermeer on the wall at the moment great shot there from underneath really shows how far she's still got to go on this route for power ups at left hand full stretch shaking a little bit all of a sudden in the Vandermeer to go a lot to do to recover from that position really hard go again for the left hand now hopefully she can just try and get something back here but she's looks like she's opting to stand on this terrible little pocket footholds that's try and put the power through it and does quite well actually a good recovery yeah she did look to be in trouble there for a moment waiting to pull it back take a little shake on this undercut I thought we were going to lose her at that point got a long way to go yet before she is really starting to challenge for this for the final places so yeah says she rest her soul a different atmosphere in here guys compared to what you'd expect at a World Cup usually it's like techno in 120 BPM like there's none of that here say it's all just very mellow maybe maybe the DJ saving that for the final I'm not too bothered to be honest so pretty early in the morning so maybe they're saving the technique for this afternoon we'll see seemingly a climate issue doesn't matter what the time of day is it's 120 BPM as a minimum and crank up the bass bins but yeah nothing like that at the moment some nice mellow climbing that's great I mean it allows everybody to focus really just on the action on the wall as Lynn Vandermeer makes it up first move into this first away couch - explore it back look - good early on still fighting hard though the struggle now going for hype I couldn't make that clip yeah that won't be enough to get through to finals unfortunately nikka put up over still clinging on to that 8th position with a hold 37 in Vandermeer finishes for now in 13th place with a 35 plus it's unconfirmed next up I think we have the one female that the arena is really looking forward to see Miss Molly Thompson Smith Molly's had a hard time in the last year or two with a quite bad finger injury we feel the need to check it out go to her Instagram yeah maybe wait until a little bit later in the day it's me early for that sort of every way terrific imagery till after lunch yeah there you can see Mina Markovic with five climbers still to go Mina markavitch will be confirmed as a Celtic Alan don't suppose the fur and the big cheer in the arena because a TV star in front of a GB crowd Molly Thompson Smith has just been announced let's see what she can do she said ups and down season really it always looks like she's capable let's see what she makes of this woman's route well we already have Jim Pope in the final this afternoon for the men let's hope that Molly can join him yeah let's see how Molly gets on for this lower section from that angle there you can see tricky this lower section is that section of fiberglass volume it all has small scones added to the top of them but they are definitely small and there's a tricky little bowler problem just to get through cleanly at this lower section it's more about the barrel bit just don't after that slight angle change you can see there once the climbers get into that it's about getting through that as cleanly as possible and trying not to get pumped nicely done using the left foot stand-up if there which is a phenomenally strong in like a pure power since Molly Thompson Smith easily crank out a one-arm pull-up she makes this just looking over options right and left we've seen some climbers skipping the right-hand side that volume completely three holds up on that left hand side we looked at Molly's gonna settle for the middle one let's see what method she goes for it looks like she's gonna go back to the toga if we don't seen someone use that for a little while just gonna go front on power there we go just smear the left foot on the wall that I think we possibly won the quickest but more powerful methods through there working through a couple of quick options there but nice to see such fast decision and decide decision-making and decisive decision-making through there nice isof decision decisive decision yeah some people just get there for too long Molly's looking quite comfortable at the moment yeah there's a fairly large amount of pressure on Molly to perform here definitely one of the big favorites in the arena obviously and sometimes that can play into the hands of the athletes but sometimes it can make it pretty nervy for them hopefully Molly can just focus on the route there's no point trying to compete against the other athletes just competing against the route itself no point worrying about whatever in it anybody else has done you can't change that quick clipping there through that walk position looks like she's standing on that middle photo ever seen anybody use that now she does move on from it it's a bit of a cheeky one that from the route setters because there's got that middle one in there that nobody really seems to have wanted to use it doesn't seem to be much use either it's just enough to confuse the climbers a little bit yeah Molly was just pausing there really trying to decide how to take that clip she didn't want to clip from a higher position but now she moves off having secured it into the shoulder press crimp flip that undercut there she goes remember how first seven is the cutoff point for finals at the moment that's way up into the blue volume section fair a bit higher at the moment to see give you an idea it's on I'm 31 at the moment there's six more moves to go here for Molly a lot of nervous excitement in the arena at the moment I'm 34 now therefore Molly's got bit of work doing this next section then can t get through this volume section cleanly statically up to that left hand volcano with the foam cat John it's very powerful position that she's in now yeah there's some big moves for Molly but she's still looks like she's got some got some strength left manages to keep those feet um super crucial through that Waco section you'd go a little bit high with that left hand yeah we're waiting to other what the judges say there but for me that's a 37 plus it says it on the screen there as well I do agree with that that should be enough currently to get her into the top eight it's gonna be a long wait for Molly still got four climbs to come follow me Molly and we have some real quality coming up Mia crumpled from Slovenia Jessica Piltz from Austria lucha raka Besh Slovenia and obviously the leader from yesterday's qualification round and act up for Hoeven who really did look on Form yesterday it was shake of the head there from Molly fear that it's probably not gonna be enough with four extremely talented climbers behind a European champion it's still to come European champions next European champion plus world champions long wait there for Molly agency in the top eight 37 plus Mina markavitch she has more and more climbers come fro more are confirmed in the finals now Rikuo looks like she's going to make it as things stand at the moment 39 plus she's in fourth position with just four climbers still to go there we go with another very strong performer from the female Slovenian team mere crumpled takes a moment to look up that route just refresh her memory it's been quite a long time since she's seen it in observation and their camp has had an incredible World Championships in Japan this year silver medal they're definitely pushing for that Slovenian second Slovenian spot to qualify for the Olympics but little Karaka vet just coming out two climbers time is the other one who's looking for that spot surely so it's something between those two so we would for standalone competition this is very important for these female athletes but there's a bigger picture on the line here as well so the coaches will be watching really closely as to see how me a cramp oh and look to Caraco there to get on this weekend both surely heading for a final spot but as we've seen from Molly it's a lot of work to do to get up into that top 3738 kind of hold territory yeah nineteen-year-old mia seems like she's been around for a long time it's the depth of talent in the Slovenian team is just absolutely phenomenal a so much experience and still only it's so young it's not really hard doing it me is Tolley enough to do it off the lower foot but chose to go really high yeah that's what Molly did as well Molly seemed to fit into that gap a little bit better there than mere let's see what she makes of this next section she's gonna go for the drop-down does it but using that height to advantage a little bit not to committing to get that left foot out that's quite as comfortable through that section of some of the girls we've seen oh those who was quite fast through it she's good there's a chance to take a moment here and chalk switch the hands around a little bit good view of how sloppy that hold actually is and straight up into these quite small crimps roots that are switching it up compression into some slopey holes back into the crimps really mixing the styles which is quite cool to see really challenging the climbers from lots of different angles miRs such good season on both the routes and the board rings really impressive to see someone of her caliber taking on the combined discipline and really performing superb ly in at least two disciplines that's what team mentality let slovenians have between Yaya me Luka I was like Vita Luke and they're all there in training well be three unfortunates picked up that pretty serious knee injury now - she looks like she's out of the picture for a little while not to forget me - marker we're eating the way these young guns coming through but the the legend in the team Nina is currently leading the way on this route and by quite some way as well three moves ahead of second place yeah we are a very young team with the Slovenians but yet like say michael 31 year old Mina sitting at the top of the leaderboard at the moment really showing her class and the class of these Slovenian females on show today mia moving forward some of the ladies have struggled in this section a little bit's a little bit awkward not too sure how to hold that whether it's a pinch or a shoulder press she seems to opt for the shoulder press and then this big punch you move up into this waco now lining it up just pumping that right foot a little bit not too happy with that position at the moment they'll just commit to it stands up into it that seems to be a really low percentage left heel a few people have attempted to use it and then taking the heel off straightaway but she looks very solid on that one this time which is good able to make the clip of this second Waco which with which Molly didn't get at this point big move looking stable at the moment and quite strong that's good and then slips out of that Waco same position as Kamali good yeah she's giving fairly seven plus there by the judges that will probably stand and that does not Molly out for the current finals position move their game based on count back thirty seven plus she just slipped out of nowhere they're really near cramp again really hard semi-finals lines here me pretty disappointed with that yeah that left foot you've seen it happen a few times on that move that left foot just pops out of that Waco got to really drill that in there and quite hard to do on that angle it's not a very positive for told to be standing in three climbers left to come here and this lead semi-final which is Camille's lukacovic also from Slovenian and that Verhoeven would be the final climber out men's semifinal has concluded that's where we are I can see me a cramp or just drops into the eighth spot behind answer if it color and Camille who yet from France three climbers steel tag um top five loose to Rd will make it through to the final that's guaranteed now and that says Iran appeared on the results well out on the floor now we have an absolute legend of the competition game Jessica Piltz from Austria taking a moment to check up on that route yeah she has forty seconds just to re preview the route now to take all of that forty seconds as well and just has a check round to the time whip the shoe covers off and we'll get on with this one second here back in 2017 at the World Cup here Jesse pills also got her Olympic ticket already one lady will be seeing the Olympics next year but we are here now in Edinburgh and we are waiting to see if she will be able to progress into the final this afternoon a long way to go for Jessica didn't interview it Jessie pills at the start of the lead season just asking her at that stage she was the world champion obviously that's been taken away from her now by Enya gone Ripert she was just saying that he is definitely a step up in pressure for her a lot of expectation for her to regularly make files make podiums and that was quite an interesting thing for her to have to deal with as that added pressure I think that's what gone now though she just gets to focus on what she needs to do event by event certainly will be focusing on August 20 20 and heading out to Tokyo and it seems we have really picked up the performance here's the second half of the season here Jessie pills and the struggle to switch between Boulder and leaves a little bit was really good bouldering season for her immensely strong at the start of the year yeah 4 hurts putting up a good Boulder in season that's quite interesting because she is predominantly known as a lead climber in the past but obviously with eye on the Olympics and the golden possible gold medal there then you really need to up the performance in all three disciplines under flip for the left hand there just to roll up to the right hand side Paul I see look in my steady on this section the moment on these crimps taking a time to be able to chalk first a little move out left and then it go again big move this one there we go i snap this position now and then into these undercuts with the bad feet she'll be quite confident through here steps through this time chessy opt-ins go straight into that undercut method rather than the shoulder press apparently moving quite well very decisive in their actions starting to get into the meat of this route this first move into the waco it's quite a big move a sudden changing styles from crimping to suddenly big open hand pinching lar very strong through that move there though rips out left hand she wants to get into the phone it's got a couple more moves still to do can't afford any mistakes here just searching around for a little bit of a drop knee there doesn't make that big punch up and just got over stretched a little bit but manages to really back in do wonder if she how well she's got that left hand she's got a big move to do out right now Jessie peels to go pick a fight on our hands here to make herself into the European Championship final does push to that hold 37 one more move absolutely guaranteed to make herself through to the final that is pretty much it for Jesse Pihl she's done what she needs to do but how far can she go now just get as the feet on top of that jewel texter volcano big before Jesse pills and has eventually come undone to rule around that volume of 38 plus it wasn't year and so we'll be seeing her in the finals later on really interesting semi-final here some of these top athletes all struggling around that section of volumes it's only Mina Markovic from Slovenia who came out fur team who's way ahead of the field with 43 plus yes you could see when to release that foot she got that lower foot into that Waco with a bit of a twist and the footlocker was probably quite solid and then had to really suck it in to release it and then couldn't land it back on something with any texture meaning this you had took another cut saps the energy really quick when that happened up to that point everything was really quite nice and smooth well climbed and then suddenly it was a fight mode couldn't quite get the feet into the right place and we lost Jessie but good performance nonetheless let's have a look at the current standing then Jessie pills does move into fifth position with about thirty eight plus two climbers still to go then so the top six there including loose girardi are confirmed into the five hundred percent confirmed let's go rock Yvette's now from Slovenia and what can choose you can ultimate climber in this women semi final round climbers had a superb season as well just seems to be making finals all over the place now making finals in bouldering and obviously made the podium in Koran last week moldering podiums and modern phones and lead podiums whoo Lukas really come good just 18 years old and certainly looks like we've got somebody here that is on form at the moment so it'd be really interesting to see if she can challenge fellow team members to a high point with Sasha and Mina up at the top 40 plus and 43 plus but meanwhile there is a long way to go she's so very low still on hold 13 she's known for having a pretty phenomenal crimp strength so I think this route could suit her quite well once she gets through this lower section if you get through this lower section we've seen plenty of climbers struggling around here just drop that left foot out really nicely really quick there from which go no mistakes it's all there yeah that was really nice to see super quick super confident through there through the foot out if anybody wondering what the giant sort of silver strip is across the middle of all that's actually there's a giant angle change in this wall here and it's been taped over it's a big hinge effectively because this wall does move it's an articulated wall so it can move and pretty much to fall horizontal yeah the roots I prefer this one a little bit less steep laughing this angle territory though it's definitely not because that roof is still very steep at the top but if you can imagine it being cranked over by a good 20 degrees then that roof becomes a real challenge so the route setters have chosen this angle because they think is the best angle for that upper section of the wall for the competition can't get over too much of the climbing downhill basically in that top section see that in our code in that classic barrel they've got where they hold the arco rock master jewel just a few weeks ago and the arco championships let's go now 27 another 10 moves to go to get into a finals position but you certainly look in super comfortable at the moment let's go also choosing to go straight into the undercut method the intermediate rather than the flip nice toe hook down underneath the volume to steady yourself to make one of the taller female competitor think in this field but confusing this whole she's got with the left hand a lot of people are going into the expecting it to be a pinch and then it's actually as a shoulder so this is where the route really starts to kick in now first move out to this wake oh yeah it's all of a sudden you kind of kind of get up to this point it's fresh as possible there's the left hand as a as a cyborg as a thumb and if pounces into that first Waco Oh easily out with the right foot early here using a lot of flexibility see the legs shaking quite a lot there but does by doing that bridging out wide like that gets into that left hand volcano quite nicely this is where the finals are places are decided that's hold 37 big power move up here 38 so she's gonna be through to the finals at the moment needs to get that foot out onto the black volume seems to be missing it they may be a bit too focused on on this clip she's looking ahead as opposed to left woods gone for sale too far past that clip now it's a bit of trouble here we lurch Gerlich so she's gonna have to try and wrap the rope all the way around the legs and off to the left-hand side of her body just fighting for something for the feet she's gonna try and reverse by the looks of it big battle here for hahaha he looks just like she got very very very focused ahead of her and didn't see the blip only might to the left we've seen all the compare all the previous competitors that High Point get out too and get the left on top of it in the toe walk underneath it yeah myself a bit of a blind alley there almost it just proves how crucial the clipping positions are on these really the clips become moves in themselves many of the times you know the judges have a have given a hold 39 which is a small screw on on top of the volume so that puts into a fifth place currently with that hold 39 final climber to come will be a knack for Hoeven they can see it which gerak of it drops into fifth position she will be going through as his Jesse pills and loose two Rd LPGA on hold 38 score first yet should say is the one who's in danger at the moment top eight do go through Mena Markovic it's incredible really at that stage she was saying you heard it here on the interview that she definitely see a top on this route but it doesn't seem to be the case maybe she's going a lot better than she thought she is one more opportunity to see her top though annek behavin one of the climbers who thinks really carefully about the game so focused really makes a mistake on the route has timed out on a number of occasions and this is quite a long wall here so she will be wearing the watch I think she usually wears it on their left side I'm sure she'll be concentrating on the time a little bit here and and absolutely spectacular athlete in so many ways double shoe covers fancy long slippers on the front there now you can see her just starting her watch now taking a moment final climber then in this woman's semi-final round men's final concluded 20 minutes or so ago let's see how she can get on and that qualifying into this semi final in first place was the top performer from yesterday's unique elimination round to find a top in the women's competition yeah it's really good to see her back in the game and not just back to be they're part of the but other people just here to try and climb but she's actually here to try and win by the looks of it and her level is definitely on point at the moment and nicely through that section using the right foot down low next to that bolt and the left foot on top of the volume so using both of those foot options at once just to easily go up to the section of block crimps they're just underneath the big brow let's see what sequence yachts for here need to be a little bit short or that flick of the foot out is quite difficult and we've seen like somali thompson swift putting their left foot where right foot where on those middle crimps and then just committing to staying front on and smearing on the wall and act just stalling out a little bit here a slight bit of use of the feature on the wall itself just there cheeky little bit of stuff on the underside of Avadh and does get it done though yeah that volumes position quite close and quite down on that hinged area of the wall but she did mostly locate something to do a foot swap and walk that left foot out that was good good tech as by Anik that's Mike said one of the slower climbers sometimes so she just needs to be quite wary of the clock yes he has timed out on numerous occasions sure all the knees as well but let's not dwell on that too much because there she's a absolutely phenomenal athlete and this route really could suit he seems to be in really good shape at the moment yeah I think she's got plenty times 33 minutes 35 on the clock and she is a halfway to the high point and just under halfway to the top of this wall here in Edinburgh yeah the roots hurted Effie chosen for the hard end of the difficulty level with the semi-final routes no man really close to the top of the wall at all ten moves short really pretty much well physical height they were quite close but in reality there are a long way in climbing lengths love it moves to the top just using that middle foothold room see many people use that she's opting for that one but it does get cleanly through that sort of slight heart in the mouth moment there when she was pushing through that foothold very very rarely makes a root reading error a knack knack using that undercut and shoulder press shoulder press flip to the undercut the way the route setters have set that sequence just picked up the pace a little bit there she's just opting to decide over to use that as a left hand gasps done or sort of pinch on the side of the volume and just searching for the different options really statically out to that first pocket this is where the route really kicks in though so this is where finals places are coming up to being decided can't mess around in this section now we should go for the double clip she does that's the clip that lets go really struggle to get really good clever climbing therefore and that gets the double clip hold 37 beckons on that little screw and on the next blue volume bounces out to it now hits it really cleanly and actually wraps it as a full crimp hold first eh is through to the finals now and I'd go home she's done what she needs to do find a climber out she has confirmed her final addition this is where we lost a bit to crack a now she hits that little chip on the top just slipped a little bit there with a foot outlet pocket the whole 39 a few climbers above her still 43 plus is the high point for Mina markavitch this is where Minar ended up having a really clever hand swap to end up with the left hand where her right hand is yeah it's a very good performance Ramone actually still looking strong you can see that that right-hander is blocked to eliminate the match on that slightly larger hold on the volume seems to make the decision here and work out a sequence she's gone back down no that's not the right way at the moment really clever they're just checks the time and I watch she has got time 50 seconds there so I think she won't be too stressed as she sees the time so excited just trying to figure out what to do so she might just be shuffling the right hand across does get kind of a really ratty little match on that right hand side now she can a punch out onto the lip pictures on that behavior final climatic punches the hole 43 [Applause] she's going to take this one away in top space 44 class now the only climb is a top jumping in the qualification can an aqua joven be the only climb at the top a semi final route as well with just 11 seconds left and Oklahoma is still looking pretty good 45 Plus at the moment down 46 she's really looking for this top she wants the top she has climbed out now though unfortunately but I hope and she'll probably just quest on anyway because the crowd are really enjoying it she knows that time is up already but why not head for a top I'm sure they'd be layer garrison rope just for the show I like my home and wins this round does top the Rope doesn't count unfortunately pushing has run out of time good at that from an axe he'll just jump off doesn't want to jump off might just top it out for the full celebration yeah home wins the round is gonna give her an ear oh she's just gonna hang around there for a while don't quite know why to be honest it doesn't it doesn't want to jump off seemingly looks like she's gonna be given some rope anyway but does conclude the semi-final and final she'll be the last climber out nice to see really the route says did pretty much what they could have hard semi-final round pretty much nail on the head for the women's competition mental super hard but that's absolutely fine for a semi final round and they've got the job done ultimately is a big tie around 35 plus and sure mercy the scores very shortly well and that really did put down the foot and put the foot on the gas there with a top that was a super super impressive performance she was quite a long way ahead of the field and really only meaner Markovic was once challenged but still some mistakes with annex climb there but yeah she will be pretty happy with that let's have a look at the final results then that's the top mate that is our finalists and ionic Verhoeven you can see they're in top spot Mina markavitch with a superb early performance will come out second-to-last that's a Cal and two Slovenians ride up there and another one will be joining them a little bit further down the list literature rack of itch but Tina Johnson half says lower or Agora squeezed in between those that groupers Frobenius Jessi pill squeaks through in seventh place as does loose 2 Rd and it rounds out the top 8 in the men's or slightly lower down excuse me in the middle of the pack a couple of people me a cramp especially in Molly Thompson Smith who coming out really late on in the order really would have been looking for a lot higher places in that hold 37 plus but it's a tricky one because there were so many climbers all falling around that same area in the men's competition Adam Andra no real surprise is there he goes away with the highest score just around ten moves short of the actual top of the wall but did what he needed to do with 38 plus Sasha Lehman and a whole group of guys all the way down to the Nimrods marcus on 35 plus huge result for jim pope he makes eight European finals as does Martin Bergen on 34 plus well Boise would be looking for a lot more than that just one point out one place outside of the finals he ends up in the unlucky nine position fed it's samoilov Martin Stronach and posh definitely slightly disappointed with those results Yannick flowy really was going really well this season but ends up in 16th well I hope you've enjoyed the commentary this morning thanks very much for joining myself Gasparri and Mike Langley here at the Edinburgh International climbing arena for the IFS the European temperatures we will be back at 2 o'clock for the finals we'll hope to see you then [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] you [Music] you

Channel: teamBMC

Views: 33,308

Rating: 4.7941175 out of 5

Keywords: bmc, bmc tv, bmctv, bouldering, climbing, ifsc, speed climbing, competition climbing, rock climbing, gb climbing, gbclimbing

Id: FGCtttqCPIE

Length: 201min 22sec (12082 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 06 2019