IFSC Climbing World Cup Tai'an 2018 - Bouldering - Finals - Men/Women

[Music] [Music] good afternoon as it is here in a hot and humid China welcome to Thai an for round for the IFS sea Boulder World Cups I'm Charlie Bosco joined by Kai Lightner who last time he was on the stream had to tolerate me standing on a box this time he's crouching so we looked roughly the same height and we're ready to roll here in Thai an perched beneath a mythical mount tai tai an sits in the Shandong Province of China and is home to five million people Mount Tai itself is the easternmost of the five Great mountains of China it's commonly associated with sunrise birth and renewal and is considered to be the most important of the five it's been a place of worship for at least 3,000 years and served as one of the most important ceremonial centers of China for much of that period however it does nowadays have a modern side to thousands of tourists go to the peak every day and it is a bustling thriving attraction famous across the country which provides a perfect backdrop for our world [Music] [Applause] and we've just been up on the stage about 20 meters for our commentary position and have a look at the boulders CAI you think this is going to be final with a lot of tops yeah definitely the field of men and women are super strong and after looking at the boulders all of them seem pretty like doable it's a really return but like yeah this all seemed like really doable by the the field that we have especially looking at the women's feel it I feel like it's going to come down to probably one or two boulders that are low percentage so we'll see yeah of course we have got split finals in 2018 if this is the first Boulder World Cup you've watched this evening it's the turn of the men to go first we're alternating men and women going first each World Cup conditions very hot and humid right now in China possibly the worst conditions we've had all day it is super damp the air yeah absolutely even in like the qualifiers like after I finished climbing like I felt like I was gonna pass out like it was so so hot it is only getting hotter so hopefully it doesn't affect the conditions and the climbers when they're out there on the wall when we get a good final so how does it affect your warm up when it's quite this humid I mean do you still go through the same process or did you go a little easy and try and conserve some energy I'm much less cardio because I feel like honestly in this heat it would be pretty detrimental but I think yeah you just I feel like you probably go a little less hard in warm-ups and trust the fact that your body's probably already warm to begin with yeah but the reason of course that the athletes are still warm is we had the semi finals this morning it was slightly cooler but still fairly nasty conditions here's a quick recap of what happened what a semi-final it was with every Bowl the topped but only one man kokoro fuji getting all four and only two women akira Noguchi and me hone and mcafee managing it on the women's side stache ago delivered a typically battling performance and claimed three semi-final tops sixth place and with it a spot in this evenings final [Applause] akira Noguchi is the forum climate in women's bouldering right now and continued her superb form topping all four boulders in 12 attempts to progress seemingly effortlessly to the final fanni geebeare also climbed well making her third final in the first four World Cups at the season Miho Nanak is four tops or her easily through and joining her in the final will be Kyra Conde and Johanna Ferber both of whom claimed three tops so I'm here with World Cup finalists Johanna forever how does that sound [Music] and you went really well in the qualifiers yesterday again in the semi-final what what has been so good for you here in Thai Ann what's happened well I don't know it just didn't put that much pressure on me so it was like the first qualifier round where I felt really confident and like not nervous at all so it just felt amazing to climb and for the final tonight you have expectations or you just just have fun no I'm just having fun like it's unbelievable okay well good luck tonight fantastic a couple of rounds and who knows in the final anything can happen thank you appearing in her first ball to World Cup this season but sadly missing the final was Jane Kim Jane it was fun to see you climb on the boulders again how did you enjoy all the World Cup qualification was not so hard but semi-final was super hard yeah for her for me is there are so many powerful move and but I think I have enjoyed and I'm looking forward to see finer and are you climbing in Hachioji and Vale I think I will compare Higuchi and after that I think I will prepare for the LEAs season so we'll see you do a full lead season yeah okay looking forward to seeing you in enjoy watching the final so your final this evening will be Akiane Gucci Miho nanaka Fanny geebeare Kyra Conde Johanna Ferber and stache' Gayle over on the men's side yan high and narrowly missed out despite a good semi and three tops Kokoro fuji worries topping all four boulders yone cruder also continued his incredible season making his fourth final of the year well I'm now here with three of the male finalists first up Gregor I'm not the final few what a season it's amazing I'm really happy and I'll try to enjoy you in the leader in finance and Alex we can see you from the commentary box look like you were quite pleased with your semi-final it's my vdf is there of my life I've been working so hard to reach this level this year and I've put so much sacrifice and after 7:00 in Moscow it's unbelievable I'm really happy especially when I would these two guys they're like maybe my best friends and it's nice because yeah Shan Shan should be with us I guess but at least you know you'll get some abuse in isolation because you're with these guys so it won't be too serious it will be a lot of laughter and smiles for sure and yone I said Gregor is having the best season of his life unbelievable for you 2018 summer is coming to town yeah no it's crazy just like well four times in a row I couldn't even dream of it it's like just crazy crazy like crazy all other rounds before in these seasons okay well guys big congratulations I know you have a bus to catch so we'll let you get back to the hotel who do we have now oh here we go okay how is the semi-final for you most hearted Spiner and what have I drowned this year for me I don't know yeah yeah hard because I don't know my face is so hot my buddies live in row now here we go I definitely have the smallest biceps in this group of seven people Kokoro congratulations that was the semi-final I think so so hard for me and then what and Ray semi-final is good for you Thank You Vasu Patel too hot but under my studio therefore the under bass soft and I can't you did enough congratulations okay I'm taking the hints everyone's talking about the heat I think they've had enough of standing here talking to me in the Sun so the men's final this evening will be kokoro fuji journey crudo gregor bosonic alex Cazenove racer go moto and jeong-hwan chomp and there we have our six male finally certainly makes life much easier for me when they all crash the interview at the same time 30 to go and seek them all out I think that's certainly the first time we've had a similar a nice interview of our six male finalists all in one going currently looking at Boldin number one as with all finals two climbers have two minutes observation of each Boulder as you can see it's group observation there welcome to discuss and share information as much or as little as they like the women over on the far right-hand side of the stage as I mentioned it will be the men that climbing first see Kerry Connelly they're Team USA a lot of day she's had what a weekend she's had yeah Kara's look great all weekend it's funny when it comes down to the four running like all the other climbers even though you had the option if necessary in beta we always all share beta because we're all super friendly and so much camaraderie like she we were all six of the men finalists for giving the interview together when each climber would come off and they would top the last boulder and they secured them in the final place they were all like you're in it was super great it was super great you can see they're closer to the cameras year and a cruder would the rather fetching I'm just trying to sear the dinosaur socks I never quite the fashion statement anyway so women's one there's one already observed two minutes begin on the second boulders just to let you know that after the men's final a few of the holes will be removed from the men's boulders because he may potentially get in the way of the women's final with split finals doesn't matter at all because there will be a short break for the roots s isn't to take the holds off but there may be a tiny delay after the men's final while the rout sets as quickly pull down some of the holes that have been in use and there's he start list for the women's Baldridge - ago Johanna fair but one extraordinary day she had extraordinary morning who knows how the day will end kara Conde will climb third having qualified fourth and semi finals and then it's Fanny geebeare and then the two women who quite frankly since we arrived in China about 12 days ago have been out on their own me honing maket and Akio Noguchi no doubt that they are the two to beat today over on the men's side jeong-hwan charm will climb first just made it into the finals race ago moto will climb after that he knocked out yan Hoya with his ascent of bold for in the semifinals and Alex Cazenove he's waited a long day for this what a long time for this day excuse me makes it into his first World Cup final Gregor sonic and year and a cruder to slovenians climbing fourth and fifth and good core of fuji will be last out so look at women's - as weird the semi-finals and the speed finals earlier on we're taking our pictures from local Chinese TV and men's too that I thought looked quite hard Boulder you you feel it'll get a few tops yeah definitely definitely I feel like easy to underestimate the the talent of these guys and finals but I definitely think that they'll they'll get that Boulder done the the movement seemed it wasn't too hard to read actually what was your reading of it I think it's gonna be interesting I think you have to match them the the the one volume it had to be a kind of sandwich and the other volume go over have the supper under clean and then you jump straight to the bonus and I think the the zone the zone sorry it's hard getting used to that but you'll have the the two volumes below the the zone to squeeze in between the two hopefully get the next hold in a good position and I think that it'll just be like moving your hips around lots of Egyptian sauce of like moving around to try to get the correct body position to top out the boulder it's cousin of Racer Kimoto kakora Fuji and then jung-hwan Shawn at the back with yen a crude and Gregor Hasani yone having the season in his life ditto Gregor yeah that's been great it's what's interesting though you look at the finalists this is very really representative of like a lot of countries like I feel like a lot of the finals in the past have been dominated by this Japanese or even having a lot of Slovenians and but I feel like this final there's a lot of countries in each in each group yeah to Japanese to Slovenians a Korean and an Israeli in the men's final and we just look yet now looking at this m3 dynamic bold a couple of possible methods you launch on the start which we can see gregor trying out and you go to that red volume and then you slap your feet on to the round gray volume that's right in front of john lunch on there and then it's possible to carry on on to the second red volume and then they grow on the zone in kind of in one movement back down a bit mister cameraman also possible to do it a bit more statically and take longer over its a few different methods and women's three again something of a jump so the third boulders for both men and women involving some sort of dynamic movement that the exact method will depend on the climber and how they read it so men's four is on the what color that is light orange holds I don't know is more like a beige you're not the most aesthetically pleasing yeah like skin tone a scintilla and women's for multicolored there we see that's men's four and that's what they're trying to get whoever can get there and they will win the gold medal for bold some m4 boulders for women four minutes for each climber to attempt each Boulder and there you can see men's for it Garner goes of the arete small crimps on and then on to those two huge round volumes and up to the top I think there's gonna be quite or could move to get to the top yeah it's definitely really weird me a nice funny I mean the setters have a little bit of a debate on what the exactly the correct beta is for the last move for that bowler so I guess we'll see this climbers will show us rhymey fifteen of Austria leading our route setting team here in Thai an they've been setting since Monday and women's far as I said multicolored and you were saying probably a relatively simple Boulder but women's fall oh yeah I don't think that these women were that any issue with their border it looks it looks pretty cool it's very powerful though lots of cool scoops it like like ice cream scoops the butter is the women's boulders in general are really really colorful actually yes very aesthetic yeah it's pretty pretty like bubblegum and I think yeah as Kai said right at the top of the broadcast I think attempts are going to be absolutely vital particularly on the women's side of course we have got the shift in the scoring system where zones now more important than the temps but the boulders all look fairly tappable and as we've seen with as few finals this year mistakes could be very fiercely punished and it could really come down to attempt and there you can see the setting that's the athletes area in front of the wall then the wall itself and then mount Iran and that's our Chinese counterparts apologies that as I said we're taking our feed from Chinese TV so they may occasionally pop onto the presenters we'll try and find a different shot for you whenever that happens resetting team just removing some of that black tape that the black tape was there just temporarily removing one of the volumes from the women's and then also removing the black tape looks a bit more aesthetic and removed one potential area for the judges to struggle with of whether someone took the wrong side of the black tape it seems like as a trend this year in general having the boulders be pretty very tappable for all the the field I feel like especially for the women like in the first bull during World Cup you had to top off for the podium and the last World Cup well in Moscow it came down to like a tie between mijo and Yaya and again yet to top off four builders to the podium I guess is a little bit easier in Chongqing but in in general all the builders have been top and every final I guess there see current world rankings on screen bear in mind of course that the climber loses their worst score at the end of the season and the rankings that we're currently looking at take that into account so the worst score for each climber has already been taken off the world ranking so they look slightly skewed yes so as I say that is the current world ranking with the worst score of the climate already taken off the end of the year they do get their worst result taken off John John who mr. chong ching will be glad of that because it means that he can still more than compete in the overall standings now we see again yone cruder he's had his sixth place from Chongqing which believe it or not is his worst result of the season already scrubbed off to power now second Alexey rubs off kokoro Fuji and Jakob Schubert currently making up the rest of the top five and as I say there is the setting the legendary Mount Tai just behind the venue some hardy souls climb that this week I like still haven't forgiven me that's kind of crazy I was tired listening to you tell me your story just imagine when you walk up a step but do it seven thousand two hundred times as basically what it felt like concrete steps all the way is a good adventure though are you counted no no I think yeah I read it on Wikipedia a good day out of crouching down was a struggle the next day seems we might have a slight delay here just trying to see no we don't jeong-hwan sean is on the wall as if it was a slight delay was just hidden behind the crane cam he's off to the far left of the wall there he is makes the way onto the stage and he'll climb first having qualified six out of the semi-final made every final of every World Cup he's entered this year miss Chongqing last time out but sixth in marring and fourth in Moscow and about to get underway Sian it's slightly confusing it looks as if he's climbing women's three you can see the blue sand there we go you can see it see there's a men's once he's heading up and left to the zone not so far off immediately asks for the brushes four minutes flat for the climbers as ever the current woke up overall champion from 2017 also won that title in 2015 2016 by his high standards are not such a good year but he still managed to win a World Cup in there we've certainly enjoyed watching him it was really good chatting to him over the last couple of days so happy to be back he was gutted to miss the Chongqing World Cup yeah he said it was his paperwork cooperate yes exactly but there was a clash I'm not quite sure what the Korean climbing Federation were thinking putting an Asian game selection competition the same weekend as a World Cup but hey ho we've got a Jang lunch on back now guess this time he gets the zone how all he's got a trick do is crimp hard pull hard and lunge for the top some imagine jeong-hwan John won't struggle with he got the top hold he couldn't hold on to it what's this he's using on his hands oh the cha some kind of spray Oh actually I was talking to the athletes and the bus about this so apparently they're like some of them are spraying water on their hands because their skin is really dry okay it's kind of crazy I don't I don't have that issue no all we're doing is sitting here and having dry hands or - dry hands it's certainly not an issue obviously extremely hot right now but yeah the wall does stay in the shade we talked about this quite a bit in the semi-final it is key that wall does stay mainly in the shade about half of the mats gets the Sun pretty much the whole of the mats is warm so keeping your shoes cool it's quite a challenge and you can see John lunch on that where he is hardly any of the mat stays in the shade yeah it was crazy I think that the it was when you're stepping on the Mads like your feet are burning it bright kick from your shoes like inside your shoe is just really really hot out there so no problems up to the zone is he heading for our first stop of the day this time he finds the perfect spot on the top hole job done took him three minutes and three attempts back if you see in the background there Graham Alderson technical delegate here in tan so top for John Ron Shawn it's got a long walk across to the far side of the stage sougamoto will be next out he displaced en Hoya in the final one of the last bits of action of this morning semi final since then we've had a speed final it's been all go so let's have another look this was the jump across left Dobson left foots out got himself set on that blue crimp that is the zone hold and that was the one where he missed it so racing a motor now climbing 26 years old something of a veteran by the standards of team Japan he's been around for a really long time like I feel like I've been watching him do World Cups for years before I even knew what World Cups were now he's in the way just a little bit there please mr. cameraman there we go against his own holding this looks very promising for Ryoga moto less than 40 seconds used up and he's already got the top how's that for a start well I'm sure he'll have known because he came out a minute early jeong-hwan Chong got it done but he'll also know he didn't flash it so Rey tsukamoto rightfully delighted with that one so climbing his first folder in an IFC World Cup final alex Cazenove about to hit the stage he was so excited is that to do enough to the semi-finals yeah I actually tried to get him on the livestream but he he was so emotional and excited he said he couldn't quite do it but we did chat him just afterwards he managed to calm his heart rate down a little bit interesting I chatted to him I said what do you do after the semi final he said headed back to the hotel chilled out watch a bit of TV just trying to disperse the adrenaline I guess absolutely it was great because he was watching the the results of as the semifinals were going and you never want to wish ill on other competitors but I'm sure he was hoping that what he did was enough and it was so amazing yeah he's a really good week in Shanghai he said trainings gone well I'm feeling really good yeah so that was a attempt number one for Alex's ball the top five both crimes we've seen so far jeong-hwan Sean and Ray Sakamoto yeah when I was reading this climate definitely misjudged the distance well I guess I'm a bit taller than most competitors so I kind of do that often yeah I have to say looking at boulders with you is quite different to look at it with some of the other climbers because all of them you're going oh they'll do that statically they'll do that statically yeah maybe I was speaking for myself so Alex now on the way with the tent number three John Chong got it and his third go this time he sticks his own hold eyeing up that top hold now he launches no problem it's Cazenove tops his first balled it in a World Cup final third attempt thumbs up to the judges he's enjoying himself isn't he so next out Gregor for sonic first semi-final was last year Mumbai he was 19th there and then a third place in Moscow last time out a couple of World Cups ago sorry that was Alex topping Boulder number one on his third attempt that's Gregor I love that graphic these new moving graphics have been a revelation yeah it's crazy filming for them because it's like you have ten seconds it's like what do I do in ten seconds Gregor lining up the big jump to the yellow hold and the Blue Zone hold and almost makes it work just maybe it needs to get that left foot onto the round green volume and just try and control that swing a little bit yeah he didn't move his his feet simultaneously with his hands like it's absolutely necessary for this move yeah the feet were kind of an afterthought yeah I feel like the more left you your body goes the worse that those holes get so it's like being able to have that foot to stop your momentum and to keep you to the right it's most possible help you hold on yeah it's nice setting actually because you've got to jump but if you if you jump too far and pop off the side of the wall the margin of error is pretty thin this time he makes it work just to let you know as well there is black tape on the left-hand side of the wall so it's not allowed to toe hook or heel hook around to the side and against the top nice work from Gregor yeah on the left-hand side of the wall there is black tape so the side of the wall is out the black tape denotes the edge of the boulder and although it's not visible necessarily on your screen it is there and it goes all the way up so you can't tell you can't he'll hook you can't in any way use that a Rhett so top from everyone again you own a cruder and we just saw there waiting to go well no you need the top here and there he is and before he does anything he asked for a but it's clever from you a first things first get it brushed don't rush yeah friction definitely been an issue especially considering the how hot it is at this competition that's definitely a smart move from your naked and it seems to be proving well yeah he's off to a really good start there's a zone hold there's the top you see flash viene cruder flash to first fold it last time out in Chongqing as did all the climbers flashes m1 here as well so kakora Fuji winner in Chongqing a week ago ranked first coming out of today's semifinals he'll be up next he's having a good time oh look at that little dance sort of shimmy he's becoming quite an old hand at this finals luck so kokoro has made every semi-final Tom ting was his first final of the season and he won it imagine this is a bold will have too many problems with no problem with the moat the move up to the zone struggle with that last move as soon as his left leg began to peel round you suspected he might have a few problems and so it proved so as we already mentioned attempts could become crucial first glance at the boulders journey crude it flash for him I'm this one Cora's going to require at least one more go I've got three minutes left and they had no problem with the lower crux up to the zone yes it's himself up for the top so we went with the left hand this time we wonder whatever go this time again left hand and again it doesn't work yeah looking at that hole to finish hold of during preview it definitely is a bit deceiving if you're not familiar with that whole type going to a definitely to be difficult but I think that the other male competitors show that as long as you go the home of confidence it's just sticks Kokoro doesn't look too worried by it you can see very briefly the athlete area here in Thai an getting plenty of gamma gamma from Team Japan I wonder if he's going with a different method nope six of the left hand shakes his head whose slight frustration that he didn't get that one earlier but he gets it done in the end yeah hopefully they'll that extra attempt won't cost him the long run it's going to be a tight final judging by that Boulder well everyone did the boulder last time out in Chongqing everybody flashed Boulder womp everybody does it this time if you took a few attempts look at core oh yeah look having previewed the boulder is definitely gonna come to bounce either in the bridge number four I don't know I feel like the builders themselves so look too difficult for these guys at least so we'll see that those attempts may matter in the end there we see it on the screen there flash for you and a crude of Gregor the sonic racing a motor jang won-jun alex cousin of incor at fuji all got it done that is men's to up the blue volumes we mentioned it earlier go through the the steepest part of the tie on wall which isn't saying that much it's not a particularly steep wall by the stands of all during competitions jeong-hwan sean it's ready to take it on so start with these two hands out to the right on the arrow volume thought to start some method here the roots is in visit just start being done it makes sense it's underway if you flip if your hips can reach across that gap good luck so no problem to the zone this is a great start from john watch on you can see how hard he's having to work them when john john has to work this hard you know it's hard will he match or will he go straight to the top the recesses think you're probably best matching it looks like you might just do that a lot of effort going in here and john-john that was a great start straight up to the zone but no further as yet this bother maybe been harder than the setter is even predicted it was funny talking to this area that you said that the the border looked hard and he was like no were you saying you judged everything by your standards i judged everything by my standards every boulder walk up to it yeah but the setters didn't definitely didn't think so so no no hey if I called this right I'll take that any day jeong-hwan shun ticking reads me long break understandably it's a pretty brutal Boulder even if you did fire up to the zone pretty quickly just under half his time remaining fancy another girl take his time obviously thinks he can do it but he doesn't waste too much energy on too many attempts yeah I guess when when this the athletes realized that the border is gonna be really physical there it's probably smarter to do less attempts but make sure those two attempts are high quality so jeong-hwan Shan yeah back on again straight up to the zone no problems landing that right hand it just needs to figure out what to do with his feet when he gets to the hold after this so really awkward-looking way of holding that one so strenuous on the wrist so much force going through your wrist so he's of the water Charlie Brosco and extremely special guest Kyle itthere here today hashtag ifs CWC on twitter if you want to get in touch any questions for CAI tell us what you think I'm always keen for predictions and very rarely get them because it's so hard to predict I feel like climbs to me a bit arbitrary when it comes to you know looking at these guys at this high of a level you can look at a set of boulders and think that wow these boulders look so hard then they all flashes them and then sometimes like a boulder instead look quite easy and then they're deceptive because although all the timers have a hard time he's got five seconds to go John John I'm pretty sure he's about to get timed out he is so first nan the top of a boulder in this final and it's jeong-hwan John Racz Sugimoto will be out next you can see there that was the method I was talking about so much force going through your wrist when you do it like that and slap for the top I'm sure aware of the time but alas no joy so here's a ratio moto World Cup winner of course oh look at those graphics brilliant we haven't seen the race of the Moto long before if you're wondering what that random started for bits of tape is by the way that's er that will be the start of women's for just the volume was removed before the men's final just to make it abundantly clear where the men's Boulder is the route setters will stick the volume back on after the men's final so Ray again no problem up to the zone like we saw with Jong launched on get to foot outright I wonder if he's I might help him here [Music] look certainly from the expression on his face that he's working quite as hard as strong on charm walls but he was going to be struggle to stay on as soon as that foot slipped you called it when we look at it might be a possible drop me there yeah I feel like finding the the struggle is fighting the right body position about all those volumes there's four volumes in the wall and trying to figure out how to squeeze yourself in there to the best be able to tap out this climb is gonna be gonna be difficult what might be interesting though they might be able to squeeze their body into it's in between the the zone and the wall because of the way the vine is facing but guess we'll see what the successful beta will be hopefully someone finds it over its four remaining for Ray as for the brush is a bit like jeong-hwan Shawn came back down and I think you probably realized how much it had taken out of him and he's sick he's slightly longer pregnant planned falls back on with 220 to go so they'll have time for this attempt a good rest and another should we need it used too much energy on that one so they thought that'll still leave him time for two good attempts so here he goes goes on with 155 left on the clock gang getting plenty of encouragement from Team Japan and suddenly struggling a bit with that first move off the tiny crimp it's possible they may need to rest a bit more we're giving it a good attempt yeah be interesting to see the tactic aid you just wait another minute before having a go or pull on looks like he's going on one that looks a bit more solid so head up to the zone with his right hand if he sticks with his last method there it is swinging the feet across match the zone and then he'll head out right he's got plenty of time remaining it really needs to take his time here again that really awkward way of holding that volume with all the force going through your wrist he's got some strapping on that right wrist you can hear Team Japan making a lot of noise cheering him on and light John one charlie touches the top hole can't hang on to it so close it's interesting because the tactic between how much time you take between attempts is a like it's sometimes very not only between climber but also with the temperature it's so hot out here that each attempt is gonna be either more taxing so we probably couldn't see a lot of athletes if they they could say continue having a lot of attempts resting a bit more than normal 20 seconds left ray I think he might have left this slightly too late of anything but as you said he's got to try and recover it's such a fine line to draw 15 seconds to go racing the clock now as much as fighting the boulder this is promising they'll have heard the five-second buzzin against laps for the top and out of time looks like he enjoyed the fight and what a fight it was so boulderr2 proven trickiest perhaps then the roots s is envisaged it seems that the meat wrap although it will feel comfortable doing it it leaves you stuck because it's really hard to push when your hand is it's curved like that it's one thing to get that another thing to move off it exactly who said Alex cousin of I see how he starts Oh ah so awk would start for Alex we give out the best way of doing it now I think John one challenge this definitely had the best bidder for started instabuilder I was nicely done from Alex skipped out that tiny crimp that you can see just at the bottom of your screen and went straight to that round volume plenty of encouragement straight up to the zone just about hangs on to it with his left hand just needs to creep the right hand up get the left hand in place and then somehow swing himself around or try something completely different it seemed like he had several ideas in a row there I move by move had a new idea it seems like you didn't commit - yeah slightly bolder looks very topically someone just needs to find that perfect method you could see Alex yeah I thought about the the heel hook could he leave her himself somehow I wonder is it when they they grab the ear hold of they can try to maybe they get the side of their body into the zone possible 2 minutes 30 to go for Alex see the clock behind him that's a really cool shirt yes nice as I mentioned earlier shots are coming from the Chinese TV we are not able to select our shots and we're not able to tell the cameraman what to do so apologies you're not getting the shots you want at home we're getting what we're given here in Thai an Sun setting temperature just finally beginning to drop in a bit of a breeze picking up and Alex looked like he was struggling with the start the first time around as well and once again finding it slightly awkward you can see their tiny screw on hold for the feet will he go direct to the volume again and miss out the crimpy will lots of encouragement goes up with the right hand to the zone how the left what will a method be this time I have to say that heel hook didn't look especially promising but he's trying it again he may be using me just to be able to ship his body where yep exactly yeah oh come on oh yeah the trick is clearly keeping that right foot on Alex his face is it all there and I think he's reading his Boulder maybe as well as some of the other competitors but it's interesting because they read it all together so yeah but as as we so often see the way you read it and how it actually feels when you're up there can be two very very different things that is very true there's tell heard bitter very interesting so 28 seconds to go it's going to be somewhat pushed the time especially if he uses that heel hook method again in order to get his hands up dump okay so no top for Alex first three climbers out can't do number two if somebody can do it they'll put themselves in an incredibly strong position next person to try their look will be Gregor with Sonic this is Alex I'm sure this is his last attempt that we're seeing now yeah just peeled off I was wondering what was on his hairs chalk I can just imagine before he came out he only accrued if he had these chalk and saying yeah there was at man he looked fine like it's a new style you know great gorgeous yeah we was thinking about the jeong-hwan Sean start method there thought better of it definitely it seemed like there worked for Joe one requires quite a lot of hip flexibility now crackles on the right now yeah I think the foot was actually where he started with it was a place to have it guess it kind of show us how important flexibility can be in these you have to be a jack-of-all-trades to be at this level it's not something you find most climbers struggle to work on flexibility I think for a lot of them the male athletes flexibility could definitely be a hard thing to to train into you get with a lot of the women though are super super flexible for when it comes to the men I feel like that the top men who dedicate a lot of time to it can be really good at flexibility but it's definitely a hard acquired skill for us so Greg all fighting hard he's got the zone in the bag now who knows how useful that will be is the competition unfold in his right hand belt gets the left hand to join it he's obviously in a reasonably comfortable position able to quickly wipe his right hand and again he tries the the heel hook doesn't like the feel of it I wonder if he and Alex read that together [Applause] himself in quite a quite a good position it's interesting because the first two athletes John won't run and Ray they they did not struggle getting to the next hold just a case of staying there yeah there's Gregor on the mats a seized area beginning to fill up as all the athletes make their way over for the athletes that didn't make the finals making their way over from the hotel about ten minute drive from the venue and he's taking a nice long break here Gregor it's not so far of a drive from the hotel but the taxi race could be quite an adventure the driving here is kind of crazy yeah I tend to just look at my shoes and Trust trust the driver yeah I didn't realize when I was offered to sit in the front seat it was because everyone else was too scared to sit there thought I was out of courtesy one minute ten left for Gregor had a decent break that's the beep you might have just heard to signify one minute to go the zone how old the goes up for secures to the right hand given how much energy this Boulder requires you really hope it can make this attempt count because timewise and if you wise and theory might not have the gas for another go again go that with the right hand I think you might be having another go very tight if he is going to do it mind you this is a final so he'll have a relatively long rest when he gets back into isolation it's not like the semi-final where you know you're going to be back out again in five minutes you can afford to go in pretty tired few of the athletes actually saying that they were tired after this morning's exertions like that's I feel like the feeling of being tired is like exemplified by how hot it is out here yeah makes life much trick is much harder to recover absolutely once your limbs feel heavy in this heat and humidity it's really hard to recover it's only so much cold water you can drink and we've seen people have wet soaking wet t-shirts draped over their head and all sorts of different methods [Music] so a year and a cruder winner in May ring and can he do on Boulder - what a position he'll be in if he can top it everybody did number one nobody yet has done number two if you look at the results though it just shows how important the every attempt is even to the zone it was interesting watching Gregor and Alex oh what's going on with you your necks just been cooled down also be an issue with the start yeah I was just glanced at my notes I didn't actually see it have to confess yeah I feel like flashing the zone even on this Boulder it's gonna be super important because you watch Gregor and Alex both struggle with that picking out had to start [Music] so here's um a team's lavinia down the front giving plenty of encouragement he's on to the zone and again like Alex and Gregor sticks a high foot that he doesn't intend to leave their sheets while he gets himself in position this looks like good for you a cruder gets a big cheer from the crowd he'll be well aware that not many climbers have got to this stage just from the reaction of people watching the shoulders yeah yeah he instantly grabbed his shoulder I can see why you get in such a strenuous position then you've got to kind of rotate around your shoulder really awkward move yeah that was a false start from you Nate he had three points of contact on one hold of one on the other but as you'll see from the two bits of yellow tape on each volume you've got to have two on each [Music] ene back of the maps for two minutes ago take him brushing into his own hands I have to say that looked to one of the more promising attempts we've seen for me Ernie yeah you could see him struggling but I feel like he learned a lot from that attempt I think in terms of beta right so he's back on his own what will the method be again chooses to take the high foot so they can get himself right where he wants to be you have to do a lot of moves around and on that zone before you can get in a position where you can move from it and he spend a lot of energy there and we've seen a couple of climbers really struggle for time on the upper part of this boulder you won't be able to rest for too long your default he'll have to leave the ground with probably 30 seconds left perhaps a little more make its way over now 45 seconds left yeah I think between 30 and 40 seconds is pretty sensible time to pull on [Applause] [Music] here he goes for the zone again [Music] no joy for yier and the signals that he's had enough I feel like kokoro was gonna have a better time on this board with it I think is really a style is really a powerful climber this was the initial attempt pretty much the whole body tired their apologies there we just had a water spillage in the country we've provide complimentary water to our guests but we don't expect them to throw it everywhere my bad my bad so here's a Koro [Music] he's underway head up it looks like he'll use the crimp yes he will head across to that round kind of teardrop volume and zone should appear in the shop very shortly there it is that's the angle would be good if we could just keep that one mr. director one word for me crazy how much body tension they had this is really interested in as I said the delighted to say I thought this Boulder looked hard and there the route setters didn't really agree but it's proved I think it could well be the heat that's part of the problem not just in terms of friction but in terms of how much energy this takes out of you bout to say how we're about to do the first top from Kokoro feel it didn't appear that any part of him peeled perhaps just a little bit too much force going through the wrist yeah I think that there's so much pressure on his body that it just gave out so the liquid chalk again Rob more team New Zealand coach join me in the semi-finals and he was saying it's quite a good way for athletes just to calm down in between the temps put the liquid chalk on because it forces you to rest and wait for it to dry yeah I think so again like when when boarders get this this physical you have to kind of force yourself to take a rest because you want easy to feel that rise of panic in you when you realize that the timer is going but you kind of have to force yourself to take a few like a minute rest or so sometimes one minute 40 left oh Kokoro should have time for a couple of attempts should he require them just gotta get to gotta get two points of contact on each of those starting volumes I'm sure he knows though that even after after already getting the zone and knowing that one else was tapped I think he knows to like attempt at this point I kind of weightless just getting the top is what matters the most getting a bit frustrated here left recesses to be watching this nervously there be wondering if they maybe should have put a tiny screw on hold or something on that second-to-last volume such a hard call it's interesting though because if they had done that then it possibly could have made a border with us like this where as super hard and almost undoable to a border that everyone flashes yes true such of the margins or route setters are working in I guess when it comes to borders like this you know you never know and also I guess it maybe wouldn't have mattered anyway considering the fact that everyone is it's gotten to the zone very true [Applause] like whirls turning this beginning to a series of moves himself he's doing quite a lot of moves lowdown time is really going to be an issue here going to have to fly getting lots of shouts of encouragement from Team Japan he's going to need them he's going to have to go so quick from here I just don't think he's got time to set himself and go lunges to the top hole no joy they're so tricky start with the climbers everybody gets number one but nobody gets number two done it's unfortunate because I feel like a crow had enough had enough power to get this border done I was really looking forward to him finishing it off yeah I think all a lot of climbers will feel slightly frustrated I think if this was a work session and they had half an hour to stand around and have a few goes each they'd all get it done but absolutely how work into a time constraint so now they'll move over to the right-hand side of the screen and m3 and there you see the scores as they stand unique cruder leading the way again Greg offers on it could he pick up another medal why not that'd be exciting there is m3 so something of a jump but the exact method of the jump yet to be determined there are a couple possible methods as the results as they stand interesting there kakora Fuji down in six after two boulders it was the attempts in the first border actually yeah it's interesting with two boulders in and fastened doesn't feel like it's quite taking shape the fun it's still quite hard to read what it's going to come down to or yeah with every athlete reaching the same point that's actually exactly how high maybe that turned out to the crowd but this is very similar to her brothers yeah John one John no problem with the first Dino now make his way over to the second red volume I think he might slap on this and then goes straight across to that grey one see what he was thinking I wonder if he if he can stay facing the wall they'll make that move easier for him because the seller said that it might actually be a way to continue your momentum from the first teardrop the right to drop onto the the great bonus hold yeah well they were saying that master our local Chinese route setter who was also setting in Chongqing find it hard to believe he's still alive he looks absolutely exhausted two consecutive weeks of work up ii showed me his skins he said his fingers are so sore they're burning at night when he's trying to sleep but his method was that he did it in one continuous movement so he went to the first big red volume then the second one and then the third one obviously bouncing along the way but he did it more or less without stopping in one movement all the way to the zone that far right volume the gray one got a prediction on Twitter from Adam Webb he says that's IFC climbing prediction can't see past the Japan double Fuji and Noguchi class apart I have to say that was before Boulder to kokoro fujian sixth place but as i said the final really yet to take shape yeah and this is really hard to tell especially oh wow I sweat from Zhong Wan Shan will resume that conversation in just a second see thinking here definitely press it out yep he's going to press and reach and are we about to see a top he's got plenty of time to find the sweet spot and there it is top four jeong-hwan john one minute 15 left on the clock it's really interesting though with this Boulder because I feel like if you don't do it it's gonna be even more constantly considering that the bonus in the top are so close and once you get the bonus theoretically you should be able to top it so let's have a look this was his a new method to jeong-hwan Sean so he got to the first volume then stopped so really interesting that he tried to completely different methods couldn't get much more different and then hugged the Boston grey volume with this the inside of his feet superb awareness of his body and how it all moves and at the same time really nice work I'm John munch on and then just leave it up once he got that Parminder Neath him and he was going to the top so his racer kimoto slightly awkward fall yeah just going back to the Adams point I think I agree with him on the icky Noguchi I think she's the woman to beat this weekend in the men's I know now me hell is right there though yeah yeah I think that I would definitely agree the statement there like mijo and Akio at the moment given the current Fielder definitely it's the top two and the women is gonna be really hard to beat those two and this men's is wide open yeah one top one zone each from the first two boulders I feel like in general though for the field with men it's a bit more open I feel like there's a lot more athletes that are close to nobility so racing a moto on to the second red volume now across the desert in the bowl to top by John Sean just levering up to the top hold nice and easy does it raise took a moto I think this builder was definitely made to split up the field of case of any ties it's gonna because I feel like people who do this builder quickly are gonna have an advantage going into number four yeah well this as we saw we've seen three different methods already it's so many different ways to do it if you get the right method for you on the first go you're away and if not it could end up burning a few attempts you're watching IFS Sea World Cup for the first time the most important way to separate the climbers is how many tops are get if they're tied on that comes down to how many zone holds they get halfway up each boulder around halfway Midway up each Boulder you'll see a zone hold still tired it comes down to attempt four tops and then last if they're still tied is attempt of zoned so tops followed by zones most important here's Alex looked like he might have dropped it initially but recovered nicely this method is very powerful super powerful and he should get there yeah the trick will be dropping on top left hand haven't didn't have too much trouble with it and it looks pretty promising for Alex Kazon off slightly different method I think to somehow get his hands underneath his shoulders actually mean John munch on and Ray both press out with the left volume yeah this is a really different method from Alex is going on the right volume it looks like it's going to work interesting bolder this so many ways to do it it would seem top for Alex look at that smile ah no hands yeah so next out Gregor for sonic this was Alex's method so as you say we saw the last two climbers pressing with the left hand on the red volume and Alex pressing on the gray volume with the right hand is a slightly different method same outcome yeah wonder how he's gonna do this border his Greg or the sonic drink his coffee on our moving graphics okay so he goes for the jump controls it nicely well let's see our first flash maybe certainly off to a good start certainly look very controlled so he's going for the jeong-hwan Shawn that was the first method wasn't it yeah but like oh the foot there may be crucial better she's clever climbing from Gregor very expressive blows his cheeks not sure about that slightly frustrated now I think he probably realized that he's facing the wrong way you saw John one John not able to get back to facing the right way and I think that's exactly what Gregor now realizing it's really difficult to spin round really try and slap you could see the frustration on his face yeah obviously realized that facing out wasn't the way to be by then he was already facing out so this was him on the initial jump cameraman just a day late and a dollar short with that one we've got the hair in the end nicely done like we saw with Alex Cowan of really controlled he's on to the zone and he's going for this he going for the Cazenove all the Chon method the Kazon off on to the gray volume leave it off on the right hand at the top for Gregor he's off to a very very good first three boulders Gregor so everyone's so far that's attempted three boulders it's got two tops in one zone and it continued next out will have yone cruder v climate take on this Boulder here he comes as you can see in the background some pretty much disappeared here in Chongqing and that's a very welcome development the temperature is beginning to calm down when we first came on air and during the presentation and observation it was incredibly hot that Sun seems to disappear pretty quickly behind the mountains here in the Shandong region yet the the temperature change has been dramatic since we even first out at this this broadcast very welcome change yes definitely the speed climb has really got the worst of it was incredibly hot when they were climbing absolutely didn't seem to stop passive oh no he's flying great job so yeah Nate glad he worked on his flexibility we've already been talking about that it's very hopeful Gregor excuse me for journey on to the zone both hands on the zone and he's going for the Gregor sonic Alex Cazenove method of pressing with the right hand he's got one hand on the top you can hear the shouts in the Slovenian team I'm sure I was in a flash can i play him the lead I'm just trying to do my maths on the fly I'm pretty sure it will put him in the very early lead of course one climber and one entire Boulder to go although he provisionally he'll definitely be in the lead going to number four because I don't think it's possible for Kokoro to sure you're right let's focus on the kokoro for now so what can he do Boldin number three judge is not quite sure what the judges are trying to signify whatever it was can't be very important we're under ways four minutes begins so everyone's done this Boulder yeah that was a flash from you any accrued it's a flash ball to one and flashed Boulder number three everybody apart from kokoro who hasn't yet finished his rotation on Boulder three everybody else equal on tops and zones so attempt absolutely crucial he goes on the jump gamble gamble shout team Japan now he is tall kakora what method and we used to make advantage take advantage of that height [Music] nice so he's going for the jeong-hwan child left hand shakes his head slightly frustrated we saw this on the first Boulder interesting it's the first athlete to fall after getting the bonus what is this bonus hole I said in the semi-final we'll have a sweat in fact but for the bonus hold the swearing jar just training changing up the vernacular illness Korra are lining up for another go so no problem up to that first read volume is it going a bit more dynamic this time Mary's he's in the fears go and see if you've got the reach to use your feet you'd have thought you might as well just use them rather than risk the dynamic move on to the zone now just needs to leave her over and I think you'll get this and it'll be slightly frustrated he didn't get it earlier definitely in this final the temps are mattering if you look at pure distance every at Lee's done the same yep so it's two tops two zones for every climber it comes down to the last Boulder and will come down to attempt it's going to be very very tight and while everyone moves over question I mentioned Adam Webb maybe made a prediction earlier he's got a question for Kai's 31 new to Baldry been climbing for about a year improving every week which I could still say that you have any tips on improvement for the novice climber Kai for the novice climate I don't know I feel like when when climbing is a bit more leisure like just just continue continuously climbing and I feel like you you learn different little things about not only just your body about out of it like use the whole see romantic so I think that just continuously climbing and being in the gym as much as possible is definitely the the most beneficial way to be better and I guess once you hit that brick wall then obviously you use other training methods to be better but like definitely if you're just beginning tinu climbing I think it's a good point you watch even at this level I foresee woke up Boulder finals you can see the athletes learning they'll try a boulder a certain way and think I read that wrong absolutely I feel like the more you climb them the more you're able to like finesse the holes even better like learning different techniques like Hill Natsuko hooks or drop knee is just different things and when to use them so in summary two words of advice climb off yeah I feel like we can all take better place good advice whatever your level so jeong-hwan Shawn is out on to men's for here he goes he'll crimp his way it's a wrap I think there are several different methods of doing this be interested see what he goes for but doesn't really get a good shot at it if a big slip from the left foot on his first attempt if it works it works according to how the setters intended at least it should be a really cool move to watch just talk us through the move the setters explained it to both of us but you'll explain it a bit better absolutely so well he's gonna place his feet as they currently are and then he's going to try to reach right hand to that crimp and then his whole body as fast as we got to the wall and he's pretty much gonna be exposed to the crowd which will be pretty cool although these climbers have really really good core and so it might not exactly work out that way we'll be let's see we'll see from there you grab the bonus and then wrestle with those two sloper holds see how you top it I had a method of myself for how they would top this Boulder but the setters didn't agree with me so we'll see be a bit frustrated friction not great out on the wall interesting yeah cuz the the temperature is much less it's really cool actually especially a comparison yeah but interestingly enough when we were check out the boulders earlier on I put my hand on the wall and it was behind the curtain at that stage obviously the wall doesn't get direct somebody it's still warm the panel's themselves seems to absorb the heat maybe it's from the mats maybe it's coming through the roof the structure but the the panel's themselves stay warm it seems you don't cool down when the air cools down I hope I hope it does though I guess the energy up there also is much harder is a lot a lot of lot going on up they even with the officials and the cameras John Shawn it seems getting a bit frustrated with this Boulder yeah only one minute 40 left to make any real progress okay on to the boulder in fifth place I'm sorry I think he knows the fact that temps are definitely gonna matter in this round so I think him having his foot slip so many times he's definitely getting frustrated because it could possibly cost him a medal I think the setters may have underestimated how difficult this move is especially considering how strong jontron is yes you can see he's getting closer each time and as soon as his body begins to move to the left just peels off that right hand here he goes again dude the cameraman just go into the hole he's aiming for 10 seconds before he goes not a tenth of a second after that's a good annalistic with that one he's really burning through the attempts and I have to say not make a huge amount of progress yeah I hope that the sellers had never cooked this one John one Sean should clean up on these sorts of moves although but is interesting one of the feet they left what he used was different when we were behind the curtain reading the climb so hopefully they didn't make a huge difference 14 seconds ago this is almost certainly only be an attempt on the zone yeah they switched his left foot out actually before they showed the athletes which is kind of crazy because it I think now it's a lot worse you could see John one child's foot kept slipping so jeong-hwan Sean he will finish it best fifth which is where he was coming into this boulder might get bumped down to six if it kakora fuji can claim a zone or a top no medal for John want John on his return to ifs sea action after the Korean competition he was taking part in last weekend while we were all in Chongqing let's have a look at racing a moto oh I sleeve done from Ray and don't one Sean is sitting about ten meters away from others watching that and they'll be cursing himself now cuz race Okamoto got that first move done the recesses will be relieved did he get the bonus though hopefully he can make it back up there I don't know if he got the zone the zone it done so dang it zone I'll get it right one there [Music] we've got a bit of chokeberry rocking the venue now the venue and venue DJ's been great this weekend all sorts yeah it's actually a change from from usual in China a lot of the time is like the repetitive top 40 like but the same top 40 songs like the playlist didn't change so this is nice sometimes lie in bed after Chinese work hoping you can still feel the beat doing three of the same yoga pops on that's very true this is we seem to see first attempt was the best yeah it's a little sad actually because I'm hoping he got the bonus on his first attempt I'm giving up on this bonus thing yeah I cute I will remember I will remember an hour away now he's definitely got the zone the zone so this looks promising from Racer Kimoto it's under the two volumes he's got a creep as way crowd enjoyed that one so George John Shauna can actually see him he sit has to say about ten meters from he's shaking his head I think possibly frustrated with himself didn't get just dinking on with the boulder at all that's how you do it you go with the right hand stop yourself at the left really nicely done and then you get up to these two round volumes just slither down this Boulder suddenly from going from looking impossible now look stoppable the last move looked very difficult though so we will see [Applause] we're gonna say a few frustrated climbers and I think if you top this Boulder I think actually if you get the zone it could make a huge difference in your your rankings you yeah absolutely but I think if you top it win the event from what we've seen from the first two climbers let's see let's not get ahead of ourselves just want to confirm which attempt that was for racing a moto on the zone attempt going to be crucial zone attempts likely to be crucial as well I'm guessing you said bonus Charlie Bosco and Kai like they're here after this men's fan will conclude we'll also have the women for you as well and Ray really not getting on with it so he's been to those two huge round volumes and a meter or so below the top we'll talk more about that movement another climber reaches it but a zone for racing a moto no top but progress made on men's four so that will move racing a moto to the top of the rankings but a bit of a pressure put a pressure on the other climbers you'll be into first place be the first climber with three two tops and four zones Cazenove bit of a delay with our scores of dating but either way ray will move to the top there we go he got the zone on his fifth attempt [Music] it is possible that the first move may be hard enough where like if you just get the zone haha on this border oh wow an Alex cows and off holds the swing go to the right hand it just needs to keep Cole here this labs to the left hand the next hole is the top just needs to live it up Alex cousin off this of the hill hooking matches with the right hand he's like a Conan top tip I'm the live reading but I'm pretty sure Noah Alex did set and he's not repeatable on the IFS see live stream three tops bro it's cousin of that put some pressure on the other climbers jeong-hwan John come get anywhere near that Boulder raise Sugimoto got the zone Alex cousin off top sit let's have a look this was clearly the hardest move and he just about stuck it and once he laps that zone hole he looked in control throughout I was slightly worried he was going to rush it once he got here and that left foot was there you thought and one place is ending up [Music] Alley's Cazenove water performance see it there it's always a bit misleading to talk too much about scores midway through a rotation on a bowl a bit still Alex Kazon off what a statement so raise Sugimoto knows he can't win here down to second as I say early days to talk about Scrolls but interesting to see how things are lining up I'm too nervous to make a prediction yeah my legs twitching away here I'm a neutral bit even so [Music] you know it's funny I got Petra Klinger vibes in the World Championships actually that celebration Oh Gregor again struggling with these lower moves us for the brush so if he can't top this and Alex Cazenove ends up with the medal Wow actually I think that he's already used enough attempts where Alex's guarantee the middle let's not go there just yeah I'm pretty sure you're right I'm kind of a math geek I'm kind of the opposite and I'm a broken clock every now and then I'm right but it's just an accident so this time Gregor makes it work he's up to the zone he's got one minute 50 left no issues on time but he just needed to find the perfect spot on that right hand volume he looks like he's having fun I mean regardless of what happens he's had the season of all seasons yeah he's been killing it I can often be a great mindset lady just climate you best absolutely and that was him attempting that move up with the right hand let's see if garden can finish us off [Music] [Applause] [Applause] so no joy for Gregor mazanik Paulo diese have just dropped off the radar for a second I was just chatting to Graham Allison I FSC technical delegate just saying that Alex Cazenove will receive a yellow card for his use of language when he topped the boulder as I said at the time you don't need a lip reader to figure out what he said you're not allowed to say things like that especially at that volume in a World Cup final it doesn't affect his score today but if you get three over the course of a season you do have to miss a World Cup yeah but I'm sure his his medal will make it feel a little better I'm sure the medal will be some consolation but I'm just saying as I saw when Alex atop the boulder did let out a x-rated scream and he doesn't receive a yellow but it won't affect his score now yoni cruder what can he do open to the zone no problem at all here's the right hand needs the left creeps up this looks very promising Fiona cruder he's lining it up and he slipped me [Music] [Music] so there's the episode it was the right hand and it's the left at the moment it seems it was a replay by the way at the moment though it seems like your neck is the only climber that could possibly take gold away from Alex right now this is just extraordinary to watch here the crude is having fun hard for Alex we saw on the interview we did with the Gregor journey and Alex at the end of the semi-finals are such good friends those three and they are competing directly against each other so two minutes left for you a to do something about this so Alex Cazenove is going to get a medal and it's going to be at least silver because if it takes going to come down to attempts even if kakora Fuji flashes this Boulder actually your neck is ahsoka from the middle to if you it'll worse you can be as bronze after getting the zone that's not good let's not get too lost in the math but yes you're right it's going to come down to attempts good it's going to be very very tight Alec's cousin obvious currently leading the way this is extraordinary yoni cruder has got one minute 20 he's been up to those two big round volumes but he's not been to the top hold crucially so yoni pulls back on with a minute to go Boulder number four he's already been so close to the top so this is just absolutely unbelievable if you can't do this number for Alex Cazenove is going to win this world cup Wow Kokoro Fugees already used too many attempts just getting worse and worse as more pairs of shoes go across it Wow and he can't do it and yoni waves to the crowd and that means that Alex Cazenove has won the tie and the world cup kakora Fuji could top the boulder but he will need he will have taken too many attempts and there you see it now it's cousin of he was in the contra box a week ago his first I FSC World Cup final and he's won it bokura Fuji could move up to second place with the top that the attempts are such that he can't pass alex kazanova he's just looking over at the scene now [Music] so here's kokoro fuji we just need to calm down and watch him because he can move himself up to second place from the top here wow this could be a flash from kakora fuji can see the top hole he can touch the top hole but he can't stay on it well what a fire we've had suddenly came alive on this fourth Boulder it was as you were everybody did number one everybody got the zone but nobody topped number two every day really did number three it's absolutely come alive on what initially when we saw John wrong John climbing looked like an overcooked Boulder not for Alex Cazenove this was Bakura Fugees last attempt he's currently on the mat right now that was a replay we're watching so 240 left for Kokoro fujitora it's 40 left of this men's final this is in a pretty tight race with a lot of climbers all fighting towards the top of the overall rankings this is a big deal for Kokoro Fujiya lot of the attention in the arena has turned to Alex casanov who's currently high-fiving hugging various members of different teams but for Korra Fuji the valuable ranking points at stake not to mention a medal if he gets the top here will be sold for him here it goes Bakura one minute 40 left to do you think about this as I could see Alex Carlton oh he's about 10 meters away from his a string of people lining up to congratulate and as well they might couldn't believe he made the final only gone and won it yeah he's super psyched [Laughter] Kokoro Fujikawa minute 20 left he's applying the liquid chalk core oh it seems saving his energy there you can see it very briefly Alex cares enough as I mentioned Chinese TV providing our picture so when the graphics prophet like that I do apologize 50 seconds to go for Kokoro to do something about this [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] here's the core of 30 seconds to go so no joy for kakora fuji yen a cruder picks up another medal as does Gregor Hasan ik well we interviewed the three of them together Alex Cazenovia cruda and Gregor mazanik they are the three medalist I was beginning to wonder if we weren't gonna have a great final on the first three boulders absolutely came alive on number four oh my god idea that was intense and then we see ya Hoya congratulate Alex Cazenove you had the feeling that Alex could win it once you tap number four because it seemed like a really high bothered hey Sal its Cavanaugh three tops Yannick rude and Gregor the sonic rounding out the podium array tsukamoto Kokoro Fuji and jeong-hwan Shawn the rest of the top six that final just absolutely came alive in the last twenty minutes we will grab a word with Alex we'll see if we can get Gregor and yone as well somehow I got to reset tone down the adrenaline and go for the women's final [Music] Roop says she's going on stage I'll let make some minor adjustments before the women's final kind this must give you massive motivation see a guy like Alex makes this first fun goes ahead and wins it I think that everybody knows how strong alex is he's been strong for so many years it's just you know being able to put all the pieces together in the right moment to be able to make the final and to have the confidence to go out and win it I'm definitely I'm super like amazed at his like what he did but it's definitely no surprise that he had the physical capabilities as I say we're going to have a brief ceremony before the women's final commences and we'll also as I say grab a word with Lisa Alex we'll see who else we can get mercy when the women's final gets underway [Music] here we are Greg offers Hoenig well I think if you said to him at the start 2018 that four World Cups in he'd have won two medals he's been pretty happy with that absolutely why had an amazing season Semmy was a last year in Mumbai second one was Moscow he picked up a picked up a bronze medal that day it's only his fourth semi-final here in Tyre and he's got two medals that's a pretty good rate of return ene cruder third medal in three in four World Cups [Applause] and when three best friends wear medals together that's what it looks like Alex Cazenove well cup winner he's worked so hard for this Alex he's had so much heartbreak come so close a seventh this year just missed a final the 21st just missed the semi-finals so often he's had good qualifying rounds and not converted it into a good result often been quite open about the fact that he sometimes struggled with his head to get in the right space whatever he did today it has worked a treat for the rest of his life he can say it was a World Cup winner Wow this was what sealed it and we've got Alex Kai thank you so much for your time as ever and good job crouching at the start so we looked a similar height bigs bit having a always great to have you thank you so much thanks Kai Lightner just disappearing there thank you to him for his company been joined in the Coventry booth by World Cup winner Wow Alex I don't even know where to start can they say something you can sit as long as it doesn't involve an exploit if you can say whatever you like here bro okay I hope that wasn't an explosive yeah fantastic job I say I don't even know where to start you look overwhelmed by emotion can you possibly summarize what this evening has been like no because I wasn't planning on winning it's my first final and it was the best day of my life I've been dreaming getting to a final four all my entire life my entire career and I worked extremely hard just for this you know I'm I'm not that young I don't have education and my parents always maybe University and stuff and they decided to sacrifice myself in training this year and it's unbelievable it's weird because there was not thinking I'm gonna win til the last ball it was boulders were kind of funky and jumpy and it was all came down just for this bother we all did number one and number three and it was powerful I thought if John didn't do it and Ray didn't do it so Who am I to do it but it's clicked and I and speechless I don't know my emotions inst I don't think I understood they are just won a World Cup that I just achieved my life dream I think it's gonna take a few weeks for it to sink in but we would maybe after-party though yeah maybe in the a few players might help do we can we pinpoint exactly what the difference is I mean you've had some 21st this year you had a seventh-place you've had some near misses you've had times where you've not quite converted a good qualifying round into a good result any idea what was different today my mental approach so there's just thing that I did that involve my mental approach one is I did not expect anything so I made it to finals which was really nice first of all my my goal in China was make Sammis I'd never planned of making finals here I knew I'm not doing well in this World Cup made same as I did my goal like I'm totally free without expectations in the semi mainly to finals was overwhelmed and again I didn't have any expectations but the second thing is shifting between minds wise man once told me and he knows it him that you have to shift your minds between focuses and you cannot be just too focused just to come and I did it I shift my mind between being calm and being explosive especially on the less bother and it worked for me and earlier on I interviewed you and Gregor on you and I together and you're the podium does that make it even more special I mean you couldn't make it any better it is crazy they're like my best friends in the World Cup and I I couldn't like expect a better podium and Marta more thing goes for Alexi rooftop and he's just standing there doesn't hear me but he told me some things that helped me to progress so much and motivated me bragging so much so I'm really thankful for him you might watch it in the replay later hey well Alex for the rest of your life you can say I'm a World Cup winner it's been a long time coming even to get to a final but a win just unbelievable massive congratulations you so much enjoy the after-party thank you be some party I definitely win well done we'll get to the women's final thank you and we're underway with the women's final apologies of the interview over round with Alex you've got a guest heading over to help me talk you through this women's final is that you go first climb her out already on the wall nothing there for Sasha and say one of the tricky elements of having these split finals where one gender climbs first and then the other is that when you have a high adrenaline finish like we just did in the men's competition everybody including the athletes behind the wall especially the athletes behind the wall have got to kind of try and block that out as best they can easy to say tricky to do - egao the first to try her look qualified in sixth place and therefore climbs first in the final two minutes left for her she's going yellow red green one minute 50 left for her to find a way you can just see on the right-hand side of this Boulder the black tape denotes the edge of the border the legal edge of the boulders that the climbers can't heel hook a tow hook around the corner of the wall and I'm joined by my third very special guest in the Kandra BOTS and the Sigyn over already competed in the speed finals earlier on thank you for joining me it was a exciting men's final hopefully we can get a bit more the same well his parents are Russian he's kind of an honorary Russian so let's have a look Stesha this is women's one two yellow volumes to read volumes and two green volumes to finish and this looks pretty helpful for stasher 40 seconds to go yes maybe it's maybe it's better to move the left hand little bit more left yeah but this and a slap for the top for Sasha but no success have you been able to study the women's Bowl is a little bit yeah yeah yeah I come and yeah and watch a little bit try to find some butters like I'm not so professional bothers but then I fortunately I have some ideas how to do this you think she went too quick to the top there yeah yeah because I think this volume this volume on these conditions have not so perfect friction so coming there dynamically maybe it's not the best way yeah he's Johanna Faber one extraordinary day for her as well it's cousin off let's not forget you Hannah favorite and following her Kyra combi Hannah 21st admiring and heartbreaking place to finished just missing the Sammy's mr. Moscow and then came 15th in Chongqing this is her first final best finish of 8 that was in Mumbai in 2017 and lots of lead and Boulder youth competitions but for senior final yeah this is good and yeah I think Austrian team full of strong girls like here and it's it's very impressive we've mentioned it a few times on the live stream but their new facility in Innsbruck is extraordinary it seems to be paying off getting consistently good results and there is women's one zone she's jumbo of both hands - yeah yeah yeah I think it's the best way just tricky this time you had a favor sticks the zone yeah just over two minutes left so time for another attempt should you need one this would be a great start for her if she could start the final with a top stash a girl came close it's quite a battle it's a simple looking boulder need seven volumes on it at such complex movements yeah I think this bowler it's very complex because you need to jump a little bit in the beginning and it's so tricky and coordinated and next there is you need to push hard and the top is very coordinated so yeah I think it's very nice bowler so one minute 20 left for her to find the top had a good start the boulder can be easily divided into yellow the red in the green zone she's up to the second-to-last volume the one above it and again is just that a shot apologies if that's something of a recurring theme here's the top and this could be an amazing start for your home affair be she got 45 seconds left it's a physical Boulder and she's made it work [Applause] so she gets it done the boulder is topped great work from you Hannah Ferber and she spent three attempts there yeah I think it was three yeah yeah she got the top seven another look at how she did it it's not the most dignified move about it you need to have quite good flexibility and so Cara Conde begins her attempt to four minutes begins four minutes flat first final for her as well yeah this fine else is so much full of new people and that's very nice yeah we were talking about the fact that yeah Agarn Breton Sean a see out here and it maybe frees up two spaces in the final and you had a favor and Cara Conde have taken advantage just drops off the volume it's somehow that right foot stayed on and because the right foot stayed on so did she yeah I think it's very important to move the hips as right as possible yeah yeah like this here is Kyra heading for that second-to-last volume can she get her final off to a perfect start just gotta try two and a half minutes to do something about it conditions still quite humid here in Thai an so not ideal the sun's disappeared behind the lead wall it you can see behind Cara there but still not ideal conditions when you've put in a lot of effort like that you sweat a lot to take a bit of time we gather your energy dry your hands reapply the liquid chalk I think she she can do the dog she cuz they're quite easy so she have a good chance for atop this road she actually had idiopathic scoliosis curved spine [Music] Conley ten of her vertebrae fused together so to be climbing a World Cup final one minute twenty left to find a top you Hannah favor has already got one attempts were crucial for the men just over a minute to go on this one that was a you had a furbished fourth attempt on the boulder yeah just come through stash egao got the zone on her first attempt but no top kaya has got a real fight on our hands here she's been so close rotate onto that right foot right hand creeps up this is not an easy move and you've had back problems you read it's a curve your spine she's not able to do she was close so had a hand on the top hold see mustachio just puts a hand to her back so you're Hannah Faber dreams start for her that was Kyra's last attempt so funny she bear out onto the mats French national champion nice start of the season she might miss just finals in 20 chun qiang yeah 8 there but 5th in my ring and 5th in Moscow yeah climbing really really well she tried dynamic better but I think the previous whether it was more safe if you do it statically see this is zone hold above that you can see above that had be the two green volumes the higher of which is the top definitely got the zone yeah swing the feet out not so not so hard to get the top here because she's very flexible she needs a bay she needs to get that that left foot up yeah Abbie Fannie shot the French team well she slapped for the top she does and she gets it good start to the final for her very satisfied because of missing the first try but all the way she the top so it's it's a lot in the finals look at the boulders that she's got to attempt in a minute so she got the left foot up yeah yeah for sure it looks so easily like yeah it's quite steep that section of wall it doesn't really look it yeah from here here's me her nanaka with her banana famous banana that appears every week on the finals she's been there so consistent this year first second and second three results before this evening nice dynamic better it was and it's cool to see the Japanese car they do the dynamic moves but for flesh and it's so safe for this it looks like they they done this move million times ago and that's really nice word from Akio no you're right they did the dynamic moves but it but yeah it looks so safe it looks it doesn't look risky yeah she's calmly walks off the stage she was only on for 45 seconds 45 seconds yeah apologies I called her a cure she said this is a cure Noguchi apologies it's a long hot day and the Sun apologies there is a key oh she chooses the Apple whereas me who had the banana I think he will tonight so Akio for me has looked just maybe 1% ahead of mijo this weekend but we'll see perfect start for me her nanaka flash of Boulder 100k like you say dynamic move but it looks safe yeah and I think this is going to be a perfect start for Akio as well no problem Ricky oh well it's looked like this the whole time that we've been in China those two really competing against each other just compete fighting it out for the gold it could all change at the top from you Hannah Thurber and Fannie geebeare but it's as you were really with Akiane Gucci and Miho nanaka looking in control ball to one already done the Akira Noguchi goes ahead of me Honam Mecca although the scores are tied in the final that goes to count back to the semi-final Fanny geebeare Johanna Ferber Kyra Conde and stature Gayle the standings after just one Boulder so we're on to number 2 now orange and yellow what do you think of this women's to Boulder it looks they'll be quite a simple Bowl a lot of yellow holes like like strange under clean okay then match and go by last kind to the zone but the top is not so easy I think because this one was because it's a quiet steep part I think is the one of the most cheap parts of this yeah it's actually curved as well it's kind of like a barrel the outside of a barrel that's interesting when we were on the stage look at the boulder skylight and I thought this would be quite a simple bold you think it might be more complex we'll see and maybe there is on this move it's for this table yeah yeah this little toe hook on the side yes frustrated Sasha there she was just it looked like she was just a adjusting her hand slipped I said it during the semi-finals we were always aware of what she's thinking always happy to show her emotion while she's competing frustration that time first climber to attempt women's to just over two minutes of horror for remaining [Music] just tuning in Charlie Bosco here very special guest and a-tickin over next to me I've already had the men's final really came to life on Boulder for women's final already we've got the climb is separated we had four tops including two flashes on the first bold men's final was a chess match until the last one so she's got the tow hook and she looks much more solid this time next hold is the zone just beginning to creep into the shot there there we are up a little bit please mister cameraman then second-to-last volume and there you can see the top that she's closing in on top first Asha 1 minute 25 to spare she heads back into isolation interesting to see here first Boulder so stash a look very solid on this last move she was actually maybe slightly high on the last hole just dropped onto it but specially is taller than other girls and for matching the second orange hold she keep the two hook and maybe for others it wasn't be so easy well Johanna was trying to keep it yeah yeah just slit trying to match maybe it's better to go straight there by the right hand it's better because first she come to hand and my chin it will be yeah like this so yeah looks looks like she needs that toe hook yeah he's got hold yeah I think because he's swing too much and I think it's not possible to hold the first orange hold yeah one more try yeah two-minute 40 left on the clock time obviously not an issue just yet yeah no so she put the tow hook before she went so you don't require the coordinations bit lower risk the problem is moving from here it may be here you need to just move other side or crimp Estrella likes Tasha so you think maybe your right hand you turn it so it faces faces up what get out of there all the tiny differences that make the big difference bouldering yeah because like the route everything looks quite simple and this time she makes it work so yeah the momentum just drops it heading up to the next volume yeah just looks at your fingers I think skin will be an issue for all the climbers right now in this conditions is crazy yeah how was it on the speed wall earlier it look it was really hot here it was hot and the quarter-final on the jump move I used the friction by my foot and every time in each run I have little sleep and in quarter-final I stopped about 40.4 of second and I I was not able to have enough momentum and speed for for being this run but yeah so there was writing for your fondant yeah probably the last big try yeah she's already secured the zone nice that's what you mean turn the right hand this has already got the zone for a second time now she's actually got plenty of time 20 seconds is enough for this yes she doesn't need to rush when there's five seconds to go she'll hear the first of five beeps she's got plenty of time ten seconds to go racing to the top now she's getting a bit pushed for time and she probably had time to bring the right foot up should this leaps panic a bit yeah quite often like like with Alexi in mines first in Moscow because enough time tiny differences if she just brought her right foot up and then gone for the top hole she probably would have made it as it was she went for the top came back down and had to jump tiny tiny differences what can Kyra Conde do climbed brilliantly in the semi in the qualifiers and the semi final didn't top boulder warm here oh nice she's off to a really good start on number two hip flexibility very useful there as she's going to back down and do it a different way when the feet began to peel it was difficult but yeah not a short of strength yes I should do this this move very smart because she move out the left foot and fold the hill on the second orange so it was it was safe without race but I think if Japan I'm sorry but I think the same like we see like we saw under the women's first yeah but Kara have very cool start and she takes his own quiet easily be awarded the zone so no one yet with two tops Kara didn't top Boulder one so she's not going to get to but key and Iguchi Miho Nantucket and Fanny G bear could but at top and a zone on the first two boulders would be a nice start for Kyra so again she goes to the left hand to go again with the left hand so another method not the best because now she put the tool on the second the second orange hold and your hips was too away from the wall that's why I think it was harder to fight with gravity forces on the on this steep section yeah I think if she will try with with the heel it will be the hips will be automatically closer to the wall see what method she tries this time one minute to go you might have heard the beep there to signify the war minutes ago pulls back on I need encouragement from down the front for her so the right hand to the zone she's going with the left just looks like she's struggling for skin here try again sir he secured the zone and she'll get a long rest after this so why not yeah I think yeah she knew that was an abortive attempt to zones for her to get started so four minutes starts again [Laughter] places to try this one got it done on number one on her second attempt she can become the first climber to have two tops she's never won a World Cup fan eg bear two second places before but no wins is this the day she will use the hook on the starting maybe step towards that medal not using it I'm sure she's it seems strange they observe together the other women have seen it you expect she seen it too but maybe not I have no idea what's happening in the observing in the finals I think I think everybody are in inside their own and just think by their yes you need a lot of power in the hips to pull that off now she somehow got to stay on as she moves to the left and now then she moved to the second orange hole she tried in this time much the right hand but I think the like the ghost done this before with the cream it was more safe crimp in it's important to stop the momentum by the left feet I think this is it looks easy but it's quite complex move yeah this is a complex move and you only have four minutes to try it yeah really not long let's see it's got just under half a time to go yeah because it's like then I watch the finals in Meiringen it was full of complex moves like with the tow hook and I don't remember the number of boulders but it was and so hard to do this by flesh yeah but but Kyra looks so cool on this so easy yeah different climates can make different different moves look easier or difficult alone different boulders time becoming an issue here for fanny as you said it's a complex Boulder you use a lot of time yeah think this will be her last long attempt if she gets high on the boulder I'm sure she won't have time for another yeah so what will the method be this time she did the the hands which with the right hand on the last time yeah you can see what she's trying to do yeah because it was I think in the fourth Boulder in Marion she's done what just one better and like not learning something from the boulder not changing fast yeah yeah because for some of you you need maybe wait maybe to pushing harder or like cream prayer or crimping harder but somewhere because yeah yeah I think like like here every time she she tried a new weather by little one move but little bit differently well let's see how she does it she is Miho nanaka so next week we will have the speed training queue together that will be interesting she's not bad on the speed wall yeah yeah yeah Japanese have the very good progression in speed yes nice and this is a perfect start for me who nanaka paronychia and Iguchi both flash folder one hose off to a flying start bold to it she kept akane barrel by there she's doing two heel hooks at the same time whatever she's doing it's working top for me owning that Curran women two and a flash at that IQ again so pressure on Akio Noguchi Miho nanaka two flashes on the first two boulders [Music] remember Akio finished higher in the semi-final we hope it doesn't come to that but we have already had count back me an issue once this scene here Takeo she really takes her time for time Boulder World Cup overall champion made eleven finals in the 15 event she took part in over the last couple of years extraordinarily consistent never seems to get injured never seems to lose form never seems to feel pressure chooses to go to the zone with the right hand so calm and that was close by the standards of Akira Noguchi that was close but it worked imagine here we're about to see our second flash and joins it took about ten seconds longer than mijo but the same outlet flash for me he'll flash for ikkyo and already those two pulling away two tops for them staticky oh and you had a favorite third and fourth after two boulders with one top in two zones Fanny geebeare with one top and one zone Kyra Conde two zones in sixth place you can see lovely sunset here in tie and mount I eliminate illuminated excuse me behind the venue lovely evening lovely evening to sit and watch the bouldering and the women now go over to the left-hand side of the wall and this Boulder is on the pink and blue volumes you can see right in front of the person the judge with the pink t-shirt holding their hand up this is a replay of stature on women's - got it done on a third go she was the first climb at the top it which was the first climber out here she is on women's three yo last weekend stash of a start yeah first podium last weekend yeah so what was your read what is your reading of this move to the two pink volumes you think do it just do it as quick as possible try to stop halfway I think for sure it's you need a little bit of dynamic but not so much because you need to stop at the zone hole that's the problem yeah but I think the most important thing is the put the feet on the last foot pink volume because just by this you may stop the momentum but I think this Mosley way it's not so bad too because I think if stash of stature is doing it statically yeah yeah sometimes it's sometimes this move are more safe then do it statically because now with the new school bouldering like you start to think that everything needs to be dynamic girl like this but sometimes it was like the in Moscow finals yeah I read the Buddha name ones article about lost in usefulness I really I really like this sentence it's a stash with two minutes ago that's a tiny hold it's jewel texture only the very end of it has actually got any friction the bit closer to the wall is pretty useless if she can get a left foot up she should be away it's a big if though yeah try like this yes you try to the right hand she's happy she took the chalk bag yeah just slips minute and a half to go though she'll have another attempt yeah it's an interesting point that you make just because it looks like a running jump it doesn't mean you have to do a running jump yeah she's found a way to not do it I think she'll go for the static again yes yes for sure is more safe and I think Stasha is very strong on the slips yeah I remember the European Championship in Munich so that's it's also impressive this reigning European champion we're watching right now with 50 seconds left on her attempt on women's three came into the ball during the third place after the first two it's relatively positive the right hand side of that right hand pink volume but it's not great for the feet you can see their muscles tense in the right leg on the left hand volume especially using every centimeter of wall here somehow staff to the right hand fired back and almost leaving her off the walls he looked pretty disappointed with that one oh that's such a shame she saved it a right hand fired backwards yeah like it was going to rotate her off the wall so you're Hannah favor makes her way out I'm in her third semi-final ever this morning climbs in her first final this evening how will she tackle this move it's similar height to stache' so she may try it statically it looks like she's going to go for the dynamic method at least on the first attempt I think it's you might use very few of dynamic like just move the center of gravity a little bit to the right and it start to work but looks like she should choose another beretta yeah it looks like she's trying to do the whole thing dynamic all the way to the zone I think it's very hard to stop on the first pink volume if you go dynamically I think if you go dynamically have to go all the way to the zone yeah yeah so she's getting closer each time stabbing stabbing the right foot out then during the training I tried they move like this every time I have too much too much power on the feet and I fly too far yeah how to measure this power second yes trying to dynamically make it work really nicely done so took a few attempts but every time got closer and she got it done so half her time remaining as you'd expect an implant of encouragement from team Austria and just pops off you can see she's having fun though it's great to watch so I think this Boulder will be done who it will be done by and what method we don't know yeah and it's nice that now the bowlers and final you like every climber done by different method it's very nice because like in more Indian in the friend amends final leave this tribal a jump off a little more until the skipping the jump like a Lexie and it's cool yes Oh slightly nasty looking for left for you Hanna yeah just it's great when you walk up to this Boulder you you think it has to be a jump but stash I found a way I don't think you're Hannah is even thinking about trying to do it statically she doesn't need to and you can stick the jump like that [Music] now she tried the same betta his hip flexibility right there were glute flexibility hamstrings maybes better to seat yet apparently it is possible to kind of sit on one of the volumes the recesses of course spend all day trying these boulders they think they've found every method now I don't think she'll have another girl she I'm pretty sure she won't have enough time because he's already got the zone so this is for the top only but with ten seconds to go you never know if she could pull something really extraordinary out the bag it might be possible but I think there's four seconds to go it might be optimistic know for you had a fair book yeah but she's done this dynamic part of the road and it's so nice here comes CARICOM be nice to attempt this Boulder no tops for her so far in the final she's got both zones of the to Boulder she's attempted but hasn't got a top we haven't seen a top yet on this woman's three it's a very different final to what we saw with the men this is the first time the athletes have actually tried the moves of course they have been out and observe the boulders but they can feel very different to how they look she goes and that was a different rhythm again she almost almost stopped on the first volume yeah really slowed down the method be this time yes she's she's doing it half dynamically yeah because looks like you need to stop on the last pin volume by the feet you can see the spotlight very visible here in Thai and darkness is arriving conditions improving slightly it's still quite nasty and humid but now I think IRA moves - away from the wall he's stay close yeah you know half minutes to figure this one out because then she tried to move she move first by the hands but your body stay away from the hands and on the kind of moves like this I think it's better to move the hips and the body first because there is more gravity so lead with the hips yeah yeah you see again goes with the hand that almost worked yes but I see the point you may yeah but if she need to stop on the first pink triangle yeah maybe that is but you need to fly to the next code that's why she need to look more to the zone then then doing the jumps like this yeah I wonder she'll try something different one minute 30 to go four minutes of course for each climber on each boulder yeah but on the last attempt because she turned her left hand like like for push and maybe effort for the second maybe she will try like pushing by left hand then do it more statically but you'll see one minute ago woman if you go what will the method be this time the hands like you say she's been close a couple of times it looks possible for her but time will be her enemy here I think in this situation it's very important to have the coach or somebody who my talk to you like like try other better but by the secret words because sometimes it's necessary I don't is she having another go she is yeah 15 seconds ago so she she's realistically she's just going for the zone yeah well she's touching the zone but she's not controlling it so Kyra no top on the women's three for her she'll have a shot at claiming a top on women's four [Music] miss Fanny geebeare third climate to attempt number three - yeah definitely going dynamic that was pretty close I think she nearly lost it her earring live to fight another day three minutes thirty plenty of time left to figure this one out no yes yeah now she do other better yes yes yes just needs ten percent more flexibility in there I think just hamstrings I think I thought about this way to move the left feet up to the starting hold I think she need just a little bit more space and portioned by just by shoulder that is close and fantasy bear yeah I think more than enough time to figure this one out I think both Berta's are are good she takes reasonably long wrist rests and family bear we saw CARICOM be burning through a lot of attempts very quickly at the end but to take you a pretty long rest there yes I'm getting it done just composes herself and it's the use of words did some cleaning [Music] rocking onto the right foot this looks promising from Fanny she should be able to stand up from here and it's a pretty good screw on hole she's going for you've got to jump a bit though yes that is how you do it Fanny G bear first climate to top Boulder number three she has two tops now here is Miho nanaka perfect final for her so far two flashes on the first two boulders if she flashes this I really will be impressed because we've seen lots of different methods a few attempts required to figure it out I'm not surprised if she she flash but no this type of MOS is very cool for for spend their time okay so she's trying it dynamically interesting when we looked at the boulders at the start kai light listed to me the final we be decided by number three for the women yeah and it's looking that way and as you say because you need a lot of attempts yes Miho knows that she's not rushing here that's where she's headed oh and so close hold on I think Akio will try the static method baby she's she's that bit taller might just help I think now under repute you may see like yes perfect example of how to do that move from it Miho nanaka oh I'm not sure what body part was being flexible there it didn't really look possible that movement almost made it work so it's three attempts used already and about two minutes to go so yeah shoulder power and flexibility fanni geebeare did an amazing method on that one is the left foot behind okay so now she can seemingly do that move whenever she wants yes yeah I think there we go the recesses were saying you can kind of sit on that left hand volume and that's how you do it and I'm pretty sure this is going to be a top for me how she's needs to get herself set trust that right foot perhaps not perhaps it's not so certain when you're as good as me Hernan Acker it's pretty certain does it really minute to spare so here is a key or Noguchi on women's three can't you make it a perfect three flashes on three boulders it will be the most impressive of all if she can flash this one she's not going for the static method can she get the jump first time she's just trying to figure out the feeling of those holes no she can't sits not going to be three flashes for a key Noguchi but but it was very close it was pretty close yeah me who got that on her fifth attempt got the boulder on her fifth attempt got Zone on a fourth attempt second try of the key oh yes this time she sticks the move [Music] up to that tiny jewel texture hold that links the two volumes with the top hole and she's looking very controlled here she's a bit taller as well to me host of that hold is a bit closer here Noguchi gets its second girl for them to go into the last folder with a key oh just needing to match what Miho does to win the competition so final bold of the evening wears his final gone see the church is making their way to the right [Music] women's 4 is up those green and pink volumes there they are just slightly to the left to the left of men's - on the blue volumes here's how it stands after three bolder suits Akina Gucci leading the way Miho Nantucket and fancy bear making the rest of the podium but there's still the chance yeah stash in your hand I believe yeah if star chef lish it yes she's got a feed goes to spare to put herself in it potential podium spot this is interesting I wondered if the athletes might face out and start not every time face out it's useful maybe easier to start but not easier to move yeah it's our first chance to have a look at women's for the next hole is the zone you can see the tape you can't just see the hole just a few times just zoom out wee bit more or mister cameraman looks like she's going from there it's close yeah I think if you think volume and turn the feet inside so you may take it or maybe used to hook but still go she went with the right hand you think that's the correct way go with the right hand or maybe maybe with the left I think there is more important to keep the feet stable so four bits of tape on a single volume means you have to start with all four limbs touching that volume and the hands have to be in control you rule for 2018 so stash it didn't have any problem with these moves earlier on swing your feet across just having a few problems with their skin I think it's not a few problems after all this rounds on these conditions she's saying to her skin come on give me one minute and 40 seconds more you could rest tomorrow be on the plane tomorrow just so what all the method be here she seemed to have this move quite easy on the first go and then struggled on the second girl when her feet cut loose so it need to be after it with that left foot yes now she used a tool but I think it's better to use the to hook or the heel hook on the pink volume first because you may pull by the feet and be stable on the zone and from this position I think it will be easier to do the next move let's have a look this could well be her last attempt certainly if she gets the zone on this attempt I doesn't get the top I wouldn't expect she will have another girl mind you nothing to lose twenty seconds left of your world cup so very frustrated Sascha I've had enough of that just appears in so her best finish possible will be fourth she's not going to get another medal here and that was hair going for the zone I don't think she'll be awarded the zone for that you can see talking to Hannah Faber top for her on Boulder one and then the zone on the other two but she was very close we miss her so yeah let's see yes - they're not awarded the zone as I suspected got the controller's oh and it's no use just touching it what will the method be from here very similar to stash it nice and slow there's a tiny screw on hold that she's grabbing with her right hand that is why stretching is good I can do that move with a lot more certainty - I had to commit there yes yeah then I saw this I think maybe I will do this the same stuff too because I have quite good flexibility on this stuff because I spend six years in rhythmic gymnastics then I was a child so it's it's no problem yeah which hand will she go with it looked like she was thinking about going with the right hand which he looks very controlled here it probably doesn't feel as comfortable as it looks but we'll see such a fight here it looks like there's a screw-on on that green volume but it's actually just a logos top left of it just a bit more mr. cameraman top left at that green volume it looks like there's a small hole but as I say it's just a logo those of you just coming in in Europe or just waking up in America welcome to tie an Charlie Bosco a very special guest and a TIG anova alongside me watching the women's final that is all coming down to Boulder four and go back and watch the replay of men's four of the men's final if you don't have time to watch the whole thing just watch the fourth one it all came to a head on Boulder four so she's back in in this little pod and that looked hopeful yeah but it's twisting too much if you do to hold on the green volume she goes left hand the right hand she wasn't far off maybe a bit lower with the left hand maybe minute to go the same is and finals in the same day crazy because after bouldering koalas I'm totally empty and still just just able to top this beetroot [Laughter] yeah exhaustion is a factor of cosmic lose to me Hanna phurba thirty seconds ago course we had a World Cup last weekend most of the climbers then went to Shanghai trained a bit came here fatigue a real problem 20 seconds to go again this is realistically this is only really an attempt on the zone yeah he's very useful yeah eight seconds ago again doesn't need to panic here she goes close on the zone again she won't be awarded that almost certainly not but what a day for her made the final made the semi-final excuse me then made the final and claimed the top on the very first Bowl that she was the first to top that one so pretty dream start for her but it's been a great evening for your Hannah fair but so here's Kyra Kondik women's floor no tops for her final I know it looks like she will try face out better will be the method again hip flexibility proving vital just cut and again I think she's struggling with her skin as well pinch very hard this green volume and I think looks like like rock climbing move then you turn your knee inside so like catch pink and green volume and move right feet up and turn Dec knee downstairs and next do the two hook and the zone it's a lot of moves yeah yeah it's a little cold I think using chalk back on these conditions it's very useful yeah it's a good idea humid conditions are we're about to see our first zone maybe maybe I don't think they'll give her that zone but and there's definitely the closest yes so all all three climbers have touched it the best control yes or no zone yet for any of the climbers on women's four stature wasn't awarded it was you Hannah forever as I said both of them touched it and CARICOM me also got a pretty good hand on it but I don't think she'll be awarded it don't think she could claim it was controlled but she'll certainly be encouraged and with one minute 20 to go she with plenty of time to progress should she make it to the zone just chalks up as you say good idea to take the chalk bag on this folder now it's total is on yeah now she's controlled it for sure so this is by far the best attempt we've seen on the boulder from any of the climbers so far she's now heading up to another pink volume it's almost made it stick she suddenly looked very tired when she went up to that zone it's so physical in at the end of a hard couple of weeks and a hard day slightly feeling it was very good try to go this is great to see from Kara she's already got the zone but she wants a top 35 seconds to go she'll be very close on the time but sometimes if you know how to do the move the next try will be easier just say you just save some time and some energy 15 seconds to go she's look at the clock final chalk up she'll have to climb so quickly if she's going to do it 10 seconds ago now it gets tense there's the beeps sure sure and that jump up to the pink volume yeah I think if she could there five minutes maybe yeah if this was a semi final maybe maybe so no top for Kara Conde but gave it everything she had one experience woke up final here in China we'll see her in action again in the hachioji and veil I'm told so Fanny geebeare currently with two tops the only climb with two tops because mijo Nantucket and the Cure Noguchi have three - it and the Hannah Ferber have one so she's going to be on the podium we already know who our podium is going to be Fanny geebeare is going to be on there are nice really nicely done so it's going to be a best result of the season and this is the best flash attempt on this boulder go up with the right hand somehow got to find a way very important to find the right body position because those stay inside of this foil it's not so easy how it looks and this wall profile is quite steep so this must start to be very tricky a couple of times to see even take a nice long rest and she's doing so again she's shaking out considering her options 2:15 left and she pulls on for another go really good on their first go what the method uses just struggling to get to that zone again there it is right hand lands on the left hand so can she now progress to this pink volume we haven't seen anyone yes stay there the feet just slip one minute 30 to go ask for the brushes yeah but this better with the right good idea but I think it's still better to keep the right foot and a pink wallow but me want some encouragement from the crowd see if she can put it to use 55 seconds to go she pulls on all the climbers just beginning to look slightly tired but it'd be great to see the top of this bowl that fancy bear she's going to collect a medal here what color will it be pretty sure she's already used to many attempts to move up the order but either way she will of the top here 30 seconds to go right hand creeps left and joins it now we're hit she hasn't taken the chalk bag like Cara Conde but nothing to slow her down goes even higher on the green volume before she goes to the pink so this is the best attempt we've seen so far from any of the climbers ten seconds to go to creep out to the right person a big round hold and then the top that he can see it and time just running out and Fanny timed out will she top it anyway she might as well yes so she weighs yeah she won't be awarded the top but she did it anyway just for the crowd nice Fanny she bear so that'll be his own only shame for her just timed out left the ground with 55 seconds to go but it's such a long Bowl of so many complex fancy moves see it again now let's see the try of mica so here goes yeah Miho needs to get this done very quickly ideally I think when you show to mija that this Boulder is real aerial body flesh ah she's close she's close on the volume well we know the boulder can be done Fanny geebeare didn't manage to do it within the time allowance ah it's so hard physical move like me has done I think if she keep defeat downstairs we'll be more safe yeah I think all the climb is just beginning to look it tired she's got more than half a time remaining here she's taking a nice long rest here you know if she can top this Boulder and the keel can't do it then me her win the competition she's already going to keep up her record of finishing at least second in every World Cup so far this season so luggage is out but she want my ringin yeah she said second in Moscow and second last time act Chongqing she's going to be at least second here so she's got the zone now we start to be interesting maybe maybe she understand that she spent too much tries on the third boulder and now she need to spend the last dance then IKEA and well it really is really tight because Miho now has three tops and four zones so she'll be she'll be in the lead when Akio comes out anyway it's going to get very tight we know that one minute to go so we sought famishing bear start with 55 seconds to go and then run out of time will Miho do the same but no yeah she try they are their beta so she had the chance for top yes lunge is that right time unlikely to be an issue she can take it quite slowly here yeah but there is enough time here 30 seconds and this move is not so far very happy first hop within the time limit of the boulder leona naka will finish with four tops as you say a chance on that third Boulder could come back to haunt her could be the decider so final look at me hope that's her last action this world cup that was her third goal this night that she decided to change weather on the last try this is so tight and kiauna Gucci's got three tops in three zones and four tries for both if she gets a given how how many attempts how few people attempt people have had on this boli's aspect almost certainly if she gets it done to win the competition she'd have to use seven attempts in order to for a top not to win it so top will almost certainly win it she'll want it first time though so smooth the way she just moves underneath that right arm and this looks really good for a key oh she's got the zone already she's got the pink volume the key and Iguchi heading for the perfect finish here this will make it four out of four it'll make it two wins in a row Accio Noguchi wins again second we running second chinese woke up in a row that she has utterly dominated Miho nanaka pushed her all the way last week in Chongqing she does the same here in Thai an but she can't quite catch it Akira Noguchi the Queen of China for the second week running extraordinary performance well we've been saying it all weekend in the absence of Yaya calm breath and Shana coxy these two really out on the league of their own but Akira Gucci's just always had that extra 1% whenever it's been needed and she finishes with three flashes and the third bowler she did on just her second goal for tops five attempt on a hard set of boulders there you have it cue Noguchi wins in china again mijo nanaka finishes second again and Fanny geebeare takes third place a third World Cup medal stash ago just misses out and make it two podiums in a row you had a favor and Kyra Conde fifth and sixth great days for those two let's have a real quick recap of the men's results and there you see Alex Kazon off top of the pile wins here entire journey cruda and Greg orthodontic rounding out the podium water season though to having the race ago moto kakora Fuji and jeong-hwan Shaun the rest of the men's top six will have a short podium ceremony as we did for the men Alex told me yesterday that she bought the tickets to China and she decided just after Moscow and she thought okay if I will join if I wanted to find us in Moscow I will fly to China because before he didn't plan it and she finished seven Alex camera yeah yes yeah yes and she finished seventh in Moscow it is said okay I will go to China yeah good decision when I talked to Alex in Moscow he wasn't sure he was coming so hey you have to be in it to win it there is the winner Qian Iguchi just chatting to tomorrow and era sake and immediately the stage full climb is wanting you go on the boulder so let's have a look at how our kena do Noguchi tease me did it this was number one I believe we're going to see a replay yeah this was a flash she's been stunning to watch both weekends here in China it's been a pleasure to watch her frankly how many years she's on this crazy high level because she she began to compete then my coach already but Vivek competing so it was about I think maybe these 10 years just checking my notes now but at least 10 years did their first world championship in 2005 Oh 13 years ago yeah 11 years since her first World Cup podium this was her on number three this was the only one that she didn't flash this tricky drums it's very hard to flesh yeah she still did it second go not too bad not too bad I have high standards and this was her on them before flash this as well it's been the akio Noguchi show really for two weeks me hone the macker as I say pushed her really hard and he always look like when it really mattered Akio could do it okay one more time this graceful drum it's a pleasure to watch there we see the podium here in Tai am about to give them the white presentation ceremony just awaiting the climbers all got underway very swiftly in the men's competition takes a little bit longer to get the women's podium organized but I think we're underway now all the photographer's in place very bare slight choreography problem we heard a knock at second place for her looks slightly disappointed third third second place in a row second win in a row for that lady there Akira Noguchi incredible experience few choreography issues it would seem and they make the way off Fanny geebeare third place Miho nanaka second and the cute Noguchi in first Ana thank you so much for your time some great insight and who knows we might see you in a boulder in semi-final maybe a final laughter well great to have you in the Coventry box if we can't have you on the wall thank you very much for your time we'll see you in a few weeks yeah and thank you for watching at home not a wonderful final hear that men's final took a while to get going but made up for it on number four and the women's a nail-biter from start to finish we'll see in a few weeks time a bit further east again had GOG Japan you

Channel: International Federation of Sport Climbing

Views: 379,564

Keywords: Sport, Climbing, 2018, IFSC, #IFSCwc, World, Cup, Final, Semi-Final, China, Tai'an, Replay, Semi, Bouldering

Id: -wRrDSnq1X8

Length: 197min 13sec (11833 seconds)

Published: Sun May 13 2018

Reddit Comments

[u/kolraisins]

Continuing with my season tally, Akiyo Noguchi's cumulative season score in the finals is 15T16z 27 28 on 16 problems. She's missed one top but not a single zone, and she's flashed 6 of the last 8 problems for a total of 9 flashes across 16 problems. Miho Nonaka's cumulative score is 15T15 26 23, again on 16 problems. She's only failed to top and zone on one problem, and she's flashed a total of 7 of the 16 problems. They're both climbing super strong, but as a Miho fan, I'm a little frustrated how invincible Akiyo has seemed the last two WCs. I think her competition experience definitely comes into play when she is figuring out beta early on; in contrast, Miho sometimes looks like she's rushing back onto problems with not quite the right beta.

[u/WeenieLoft]

Was great to see Kyra on finals, and I'm happy that she can obviously compete with the best. Didn't top any in finals, but still a strong showing!

[u/laikapet]

I just want to know who picks colors for the holds, because I have a questions about mens' 4 in the finals. Why a flesh tone with two large round boulders?

[u/XVelonicaX]

Can someone tell me the name of Korean climber girl with spider back tattoo they were interviewing?

[u/DustRainbow]

Any guesses on what Alex Khazanov said after boulder 4? I'm guessing "what the fuck" but it doesn't really fit. I might be reading too hard into it.