How To Remix Thingiverse Things Using Tinkercad, When Screws Don't Fit

hello 3d printing friends today on the BB 3d channel i'll show you how i use Tinkercad to remix a thing in order to fix a thing that I got from Thingiverse so if you find yourself in a similar situation you'll be able to do a remix fix too stick around and we'll get into it right after this I'm Brian and you are watching bv 3d hi welcome back hey if you're new here and you're wanting to learn about 3d printing 3d modeling and other 3d printing related stuff start now by subscribing and clicking the bell so you don't miss anything ok so today I wanted to share a bit of a problem I ran into I bought a genuine III dv6 all-metal hotend what no that wasn't the problem anyway like I said I bought a genuine III db6 all-metal hotend from alien 3d now I got it to replace the clone v6 PTFE lined hot end on my so vollis v01 because I keep killing that little PTFE lining when I'm printing pe PG the end of it gets all crispy and nasty and then the filament starts jamming and I have to take it apart and put in a new PTFE tube and after having done that a few times I'm kind of done with doing it now at the moment I've got a new PTFE tube in it and I'm only printing PLA on it so until I want to start printing PE TG on it again I thought it would be cool to experiment with running this new genuine III p6 on my ender 3 and I've been looking at different printable mounts with parts cooling ducts for 5015 blowers for the under 3 and I found one I liked but after spending about nine hours printing it out and I printed all the parts in PE PG on my ender 3 Pro with a micro swiss all-metal hotend I made an unhappy discovery the screw holes are just too small for the m3 screws that are supposed to fit through them and it's not the kind of too small where you think oh that's just a tolerance thing and I could pass a rattail file through there and make it work this is the kind of to small or even an m2 screw would have a hard time fitting in there now I first noticed it on this part which is the part that clamps the hot ends heatsink onto the mounting bracket and I had already started in on the holes with a rat tail file and by the time I got the two holes on this thing reamed out an hour had gone by and then I realized that the mounting bracket itself had the same problem too but still I pressed on and after another 45 minutes and the beginnings of a blister on my thumb I came to the realization that I was going to spend at least another three hours reworking these parts plus if I broke something while I was reworking it or installing it I was gonna have to go through all that trouble all over again ain't nobody got time for that so instead I too sited to remix the parts in Tinkercad to fix the whole problem once and for all so let's get into Tinkercad and i'll show you how i did it that way if you have the same problem you'll know how to fix it too okay here we are in Tinkercad for those who may not be familiar with it Tinkercad is a free 3d modeling application which runs in your web browser you can go to Tinkercad comm and create a free account and get right to work now one fun thing you'll find is that when you start a new design in Tinkercad it gives them ridiculously comical names and let's change that because this is not a glorious crunk it is an e3d mount remix now in Tinkercad you can build up some pretty complex models from just basic building blocks and these blocks can either be solid like this cube or they can be holes like this cylinder and you can change apart from a solid to a hole with just a click and when you have a hole that overlaps with a solid and you group them together the hole gets cut out of the solid and so that's exactly what we're going to do to the parts which have the way to small screw holes we're going to use whole parts as cutting tools now let's get rid of these and then let's make some high precision specialty cutting tools out of basic shapes so this hot end mount is held together with m3 screws and the shaft on an m3 screw is three millimeters in diameter I guess that's why they're called m3 screws after all fun fact when you print a model using a zero point four millimeter nozzle the nozzle is centered over the path that it's taking so if we were to make a hole exactly three millimeters in diameter half of the nozzles width is inside the hole when it prints and since it happens all the way around the hole the hole ends up being too small and the exact amount of to smallness is whatever your nozzle with this so by subtracting the width of the nozzle from the diameter of the hole we can see that the actual size of the hole and the printed part would be three point zero minus zero point four or two point six millimeters which is definitely too small now granted there are slicer settings designed to overcome some of this but I prefer to design things like screw holes to take into account how the slice and the printer ordinarily want to do things and so if we want to hold that's at least three millimeters in diameter on a printed part we need to increase it by at least the diameter of the nozzle which means adding zero point four millimeters to the diameter but that would be a super snug fit and I want to be able to slide the screws in pretty easily so I want to leave an extra 0.1 millimeter of space all the way around the screw and that means adding an extra zero point two millimeters to the diameter of the hole so in the end what I want is a hole that is three point zero plus zero point four plus zero point two millimeters in diameter or three point six millimeters so let's make one I'll drag out a cylinder that's a whole part and then I'll set its diameter to three point six millimeters and I'll set the number of sides to 64 but what I really need is a model of the screws because I need to make sure that the screw heads will fit in the recess is provided for them now I'm using these m3 socket head screws and the screw heads are five point three millimeters in diameter and three millimeters tall so I'm going to duplicate the whole cylinder and change its dimensions to take care of the screw heads using the same reasoning that we used to ensure that the screw shaft is going to fit I'm going to add to the diameter of this part to ensure that the screw heads fit to starting with the screw head diameter of five point three millimeters and then adding zero point four millimeters plus zero point two extra that takes it to five point nine millimeters and so I'm just going to round that up to six millimeters so I'll set the diameter of this to six millimeters and since the screw heads are three millimeters tall I think I'll add just a smidgen more to it maybe one standard layer so I'll make these three point two millimeters tall now I'll select these two cylinders align their centers and group them together to make a tool designed to cut out adequate space for m3 socket head screws and we can just duplicate this as many times as we need to cut the screw holes out of the models so just for fun I'll make a virtual pile of them and I'll just move them up over here now in addition to the m3 screws this model also uses m3 nuts and the holes for them were also a little too snug so I'm gonna use a hexagonal cutting tool to make sure that we can get all the hardware into the printed model and get it assembled so let's drag a polygon out onto the workplane caliper measurements of the distance between the flat spots on a hex nut showed it to be five point four millimeters so just like I did for the screw heads I'll make that dimension six millimeters to ensure that I can get the parts into place now I'm gonna set the snap grid to 0.1 millimeters temporarily and I'll explain why in a little bit and I'm also going to hold the shift key while I drag this adjustment handle on the hexagon until the distance between the flat sides of the hexagon is between five point nine and six millimeters the shift key tells Tinkercad to scale the object proportionally so that it changes size instead of dis changing shape now I'll set the snap grid back to the default one millimeter okay there we go now using the inspector panel we'll change this from a solid to a hole so that we can use it as a cutting tool I may need to adjust the thickness of this later but for now I'm going to just make a small pile of these and move them over by the other cutting tools so one reason that Tinkercad is great for quick fixes like this is because it can import STL files the model consists of three pieces there's the mounting bracket that attaches to the X carriage on the Ender 3 there's the small part that clamps the e3d v6 hotend onto it and then there's the fan duct now the holes in the fan duct are actually fine so we don't need to do anything to that but we do need to enlarge the holes in the mounting bracket and the clamp to import the STL file click on the import button then drag an STL file into the drop zone and click import in a few moments the file appears on the work plane let's move that out of the way and bring in the other part to Tinkercad defaults to a perspective view where the objects that it's displaying look like they get smaller the further away they are and that's cool but sometimes we need what's called orthographic view which doesn't do that orthographic view is handy for doing things like looking straight down on a model to line up parts which is exactly what we need to do here so click this to switch to orthographic view now let's get two copies of the screw hole cutters that we created a moment ago and we'll drag them over by the clamp part that we brought in and let's use this cube control up here to switch to a straight down top view there okay now drag one of these hole cylinders so that it's about as centered on the hole as you can get it an easy way to zoom in close on an object is to select it and then press the F key on the keyboard that tells Feker CAD that you want to focus on that part and it sets the zoom level to something appropriate and you'll notice that as you drag things around in Tinkercad they tend to snap into position on the grid of the work plane and unfortunately that snapping action is preventing us from getting this hole lined up with the hole but fortunately we can change that snap to grid behavior I showed you this just a moment ago click down here to change the snap grid value from the default one millimeter to 0.1 millimeters there now we can get the holes lined up and then we can line up the hole tool for the other hole in this part too and with both of those done drag a selection around the part and the new holes and proof them together tada there we just enlarge the holes in this part next let's work on the other part that needs the holes enlarged now we've got five screw holes that need to be enlarged so let's get five copies of the screw hole cutting tool I'm gonna rotate these screw cutter outers so that the screw head parts are on the top then I'm going to drag these into position and then zoom in on each one to get it perfectly or close to perfectly lined up and getting these close enough should be fine remember we've got the snap grid set to 0.1 millimeters so if you find that you need to move the hole to a spot halfway between snaps you're only off by about 0.05 millimeters and well that's close enough now with these five holes in the right places I'll drag a selection box around this part and the cutters and group them together to enlarge the holes one last thing that I want to fix on this part is the cutouts on the back for the hex nuts I'm gonna flip the mount 180 degrees so that we can easily work with the back of it and let's get two of the hexagons and then we'll select them both along with the part that we just flipped with these selected use the alignment tool to bring the hexagons up to the same height that has them out now we can move them roughly into place but we're not gonna group them just yet it looks like we need to make them a little bit taller so that we can get them to cut all the way down to the bottom of these holes let's select both of them and make sure that you don't have the mount selected okay now we can change the height of these pieces by adjusting this handle here and then we can control their altitude with the cone-shaped handle right above the one that we just used see okay let's lower it until it just turns the bottom of the whole dark and then come back up one click or Matt position there perfect now we can zoom out a little bit select the mount and the two hexagons and group them together now before I call this done I want to turn this mount into a transparent part I can do that by selecting it and pressing the T key on the keyboard and I'm doing this because I want to see whether there are any other hidden issues with the holes in this part oh and I see one two on one side of this mount there is a mounting point for the fan duct and on the other side there's a mounting point for a bed probe and there's just not enough room for the pointy end of a hex nut to get down in there the cutout stops right at the bottom of the screw hole so we'll need to cut that out just a little bit more to let me take some measurements of a hex nut again okay it's about two point four millimeters thick so I want to add zero point four millimeters to that and that gets me to two point eight millimeters thick for a tight fit and then two point nine to three millimeters for a loose fit time to make another cutting tool from a hole part I'll grab one of the hexagonal cutters that I made earlier now I can set its height to three millimeters and then I need to stand it up on one of the rectangular faces so click rotate 90 degrees and done now we need to get it roughly lined up with the area where it's going to go back to the top view so we can drag it into place then switch to a side view so that we can get it to the right height now we're cutting out a little more material so I want to duplicate this several times in an overlapping fashion so it'll cut out a channel for itself so I'm going to use the duplicate command which is right up here with the hexagon selected I'll click duplicate this makes a copy of the part and the first time that you use it on a part the copy is in the exact same place as the original and it becomes the selected part if you use the arrow keys to move the copy a little bit and duplicate it again you'll get another copy and it remembers that offset and it applies it to the duplicated part so I'll do that a few more times to get clear of the mount and since there's a hole we'll just like this on the other side I want to grab all these hexagons that I just made and group them together and then I want to duplicate them over to the other side of the mount but with all of these hexagons inside the mount they might be difficult to select fortunately Tinkercad has a way to make that easy it has the ability to hide a part so let's click on the mount and then click this dark light bulb in the inspector panel and as soon as we do it's lights out for the mount okay now while it's gone I'm going to drag a selection box around the overlapping hexagons and group them together then I'm going to use the duplicate command again and I'm going to drag the duplicated part off to the side a little bit so that I'll be able to select it and move it around once we bring them out back so how do we bring a hidden-object back in we'll use the light bulb icon that's not dark once we click that every hidden part comes back into the workplane now I can select that other hexa cluster and move it into place there that's pretty good now we can group this part with the hexagons and we will have fixed all its problems ok let's make it non transparent again on the keyboard T toggles transparency so select the mount and press the T key and lastly let's flip it over again back the way it was when we imported it yep we'll do a complete 180 on it so now these parts can be exported when exporting from Tinkercad if you have multiple objects and you want them to come out as separate STL files you have to select each one and export it individually otherwise you get everything in a single STL file so I'll export these two things individually select a part click export and then click STL and we'll do the same for the other one select export STL and now i've got files that i can slice and print and not have to attack them with a file or get blisters so i think the decision to remix the parts in Tinkercad and print them out is probably the best way to go because even if I had spent hours filing all the openings to get the screws to fit that one channel for the bed probe mount would never worked anyway the hex nut wouldn't have even fit all the way down into it ok these came out great the hardware fits properly now and I got it the symbol and I can get on with the process of tinkering with my printer ok now it's unlikely that I am the only person to ever have had a problem with this model and if you have to remix a model to solve a problem that you had with it you may not be the only person to ever run into that problem either so why not give back to the 3d printing community and hopefully save someone else from having to do what we just did the way to do that is to upload the modified files back to Thingiverse as a remix and so that's what I've done and when I did that I specified the original thing as the source which credits the original designer and lets everyone know that didn't design this myself in addition I only uploaded the parts that I fixed since there wasn't anything wrong with the duct work from the original thing people will still need to go get that from the original designer in the Thingiverse description it's also a nice touch to include a link back to the original design and credit the original designer there too plus the description provides a chance to say what was changed and why and very importantly you need to abide by the license terms of the Thingiverse thing that you've remixed many items are licensed as attribution or attribution share-alike attribution simply means crediting the designer of the thing that you've remixed the share alike part means that you need to set the license on your remix to the same license type as the source thing now there are also commercial and non-commercial licenses which means that either can or cannot profit from the thing that you remixed now there's one exception one reason why you wouldn't or more properly shouldn't upload the files as a remix and that is this if the item that your remix ink as a license which includes the no-derivatives option the original designer is saying that no modified versions of the design may be distributed so in these cases sadly the original designer prevents us from sharing improvements made to the design now in my opinion this makes sense for designs which are works of art sculptures and things like that the original designer is saying this is something that I made and I feel should not be tampered with but and again this is just my opinion for functional parts like the ones that we remixed for today's episode a no-derivatives license just doesn't make sense there's always something that can be improved on a new style of bed probe from eshelov like might appear on the market for example and so mounting holes may need to be repositioned I guess what I'm getting at is whether or not the license assigned to a thing makes sense to you you should respect the wishes of the designer who made the part that you mixed if a model has a no-derivatives license don't distribute your modified files now that doesn't mean that you can't write a tutorial or create a video describing how to modify that model for a particular purpose but it does mean that you shouldn't distribute the modified files fortunately for us this model doesn't have a no-derivatives license so that's that now you've seen a way that you can remix a thing to fix a thing and share that fix if the license allows for it if you want to check out this particular thing there are links to the original and my remix in the description well 3d printing prints that's about all the time that we have for today and now the birthday end of the video let's maybe remix something and then go print something cool hey real quick before you go I wanted to say thanks for being one of the super awesome people who sticks around all the way to the end and thanks for all the likes comments and shares you're all wonderful for doing that and I really appreciate it if you liked this episode a thumbs up would be great if you'd like to help support the channel check the description for ways that you can do exactly that and don't forget whether you're interested in buying things that were featured in this video or just buying things online in general there are links down in the description to get you to the right place now I've got some other videos here that you might want to take a look at too also please consider subscribing if you haven't already done so subscribing is absolutely free and it's an excellent way to help keep me making these videos for you well that's it for this one thanks again and I'll see you next time here on the BB 3d Channel

Channel: BV3D: Bryan Vines

Views: 101,024

Keywords: 3D Printing, 3D Printing Friends, tinkercad 3d printing, tinkercad designs, tinkercad for beginners, tinkercad basics, tinkercad tutorial for beginners, thingiverse tutorial, thingiverse 3d print, thingiverse to ender 3, thingiverse upload design, 3d printer, 3d printing, 3d modeling software, 3d modeling, 3d modeling tutorial, 3d modeling for 3d printing, tinkercad, thingiverse, remixing parts, how to, thingiverse remix tutorial, tinkercad tutorial

Id: cqXREenL3zs

Length: 21min 6sec (1266 seconds)

Published: Mon May 25 2020