The BEST New 3D Printing Program! ORCA SLICER TUTORIAL

so I have a lot of 3D printers you might have a lot of 3D printers you might only have one or you might be looking to get your first one whatever reason brought you to this tutorial today I'm going to be going over Orca slicer this is a relatively new 3D printing program that has eliminated the need for me to switch between other 3D printing slicer programs I don't need to go from Cura to elua soille the bamboo back and forth it's all done here and not only is it one of the best programs I've used it also lets me remote Monitor and control some of my printers which is just game-changing so we're going to be going over how to set it up some of the cool features the things I change my print settings which I know all of you ask about all the time and just some of the awesome things it does so let's get started now on my desktop I have a couple different 3D printing programs I have ultimaker I have creality slicer I have creality print elura soloc Cura anchoring That's not including the flash Forge program I might need Andia slicer and all of that whatever we're going to be talking about orca slicer which just combines all of these into one and makes all of these just obsolete you go to the Orca slicer website you scroll down a little bit it's going to tell you to download it from the GitHub you're going to be met with this page over here you're going to scroll down to the uh latest release notes you can go down here and you grab whatever file you need Mac Windows Linux and you can even go to earlier versions if you want but I don't know why you want to do that you install it this is literally a whole guide on how to install it everything you need to do this is basically what we're going to be going through except I'm going to be like showing you how to do it but I will link this down below as reference because there is a lot of information in here that I'm just not going to cover this is like your intro to Orca slicer because I'm still learning how to use it now Orca slicer is based off of bamboo Studio it's literally just a clone of it it looks exactly the same and you can do a lot of the same stuff in bamboo that you can do in Orca but Bamboo's still a little bit behind when Orca adds something bamboo then goes and adds something so it's trying to play keep up but if you're going to be using bamboo studio just use orca slicer because it just gives you more options when you go and load up the program the first thing it's going to ask you to do is add printers so whatever 3D printers you have go and find them now there are a still select few like the CR uh M4 and just some brand new printers that aren't quite added yet but they're constantly being updated I have a wide variety of printers bamboo eligo soille all of this so I just went through selected all of them and you can even select the different nozzle sizes if it comes you know standard or has a different nozzle option and then you're just going to be met with a huge list of every printer in Your Arsenal this is amazing now I don't need to switch between programs and print profiles and I know you can load print profiles and other slicers but this just eliminates the need for it now we are going to get into the advanced settings over here but don't worry about that yet we're just going to go over a basic overlay how to manipulate move everything add build plates the real Basics but if you understand all this you can skip ahead use a little track bar down below if you understand this if you're coming from another slicer since it's based off of bamboo we're just going to run with the the p1p for now so you can see up here I have the p1p selected I can go between the different beds I have a textured bed I can switch between the nozzle or the quality at least for the particular nozzle I have if I want to go and change something like that I can go into the printer settings I can change the filament there's a lot you can do just on the basic settings as you change the quality it's going to change the layer height it's going to do a lot of that by itself there really isn't much you're going to need to change here in the basic settings you can go over you can increase your walls you can increase your infill depending on what you're printing you can add remove supports and we're going to talk about supports in a little bit that's a big um improvement with Orca and bamboo because the supports are just beautiful and that's really it there's not much more to the settings however what's really great about this program is you can add multiple build plates I love this for project manipulation and just organizing things I just went and loaded in a recent project this is the inverted Spear of Heaven from jit kaisen if you recognize it you're a nerd so am I welcome to the channel uh there there's a video about this coming out soon so just stay tuned for that but I have multiple Parts here what what's cool about this right off the bat is I can add build plates so I don't want to slice all this on one build plate I can come and bring this over here and I can Center it you right click the item and you hit Center so now I can arrange different projects and I can either slice one build plate and Export it or I can slice everything and Export it depending on the printer you have linked if I'm using my k1s if I'm using my P1 PS it's going to give you different options at the top to export them you can't just remotely send every print not every printer supports that so depending on which printer you have like if I go over here and select I don't know my elgu Neptune 3 it's going to change I can only export the G-Code I can't send the file remotely but there are some ways around that we'll talk about that later but it has all the basic manipulation tools I can select the objects I can drag them I can move them around I can rotate it's just basic you know 3D manipulation uh so you have your normal things you can Auto Orient and uh the part you selected you can select the whole plate you can Auto arrange and make them get as close as possible possible as far as possible the sliders pretty much explain everything and which is really great when you hover over stuff it tells you what it does which is just you know better than some other programs you can move stuff you can lay it on its face you can find all the face Parts this is great for printing things flat probably one of the best features in this whole program is you can cut stuff and not every slicing program has that and some of them that do are awful at it so I can literally just hit cut move the cut around and I can immediately slice an STL file in half not only can I do that I can export it if you right click you can go right down to export and send and save the STL file and it's it works super quick it is a very responsive program the only thing of note left up here is probably support painting but like I said we're going to talk about supports a little bit later because that does get a little bit Advanced so you can just go and add a bunch of build plates just make sure that the part is actually centered on that build plate so if I move this over here I always for safety just hit Center and I'll drag this over here whatever build plate you you have selected is what it's going to Center that part on so I have the parts arranged here I can either slice the plate I have selected to see if it's actually going to print so I can preview it or I can come over here and hit slice all and it's going to slice everything with the settings I've selected and it's going to give you a mass total how long is everything going to take to print how much material is it going to use what's the cost and then you can go to each plate you can look at it you can review it you can grab the slider move up and down I always always always recommend reviewing your prints before you send them make sure your first layer is good you can look at the first layer right here is does that look stable do I need supports or is this going to print probably pretty nicely this is going to need supports there's no way it's doing that you can also go up here and save the project if you have a big selection of parts or you know you're going to be reprinting something you going just save the build all the build plates projects settings and just reopen it at a later time so it's great for task and uh management and organization now if you're still in the basic mode I definitely just suggest enabling supports either do auto tree or Auto normal uh Orca and bamboo boo Auto tree supports are incredible you can change the angle so it'll be more less forgiving you can make it also only touch the build plate so it's not enveloping Parts in support um the the just the standard settings that are sitting here are great so if we go and enable supports here we'll even do tree supports let's see what that looks like a nice sturdy brim good tree supports good Collision doesn't use a lot more material and I I I'd send that print honestly now for the most part this is going to get you where you need to be especially if you're starting off and if you're coming from another slicing program you're already familiar with a lot of this stuff it just takes literally sitting here right-clicking things reading it seeing what they do mirror Center ad part you can just you can just do a lot of the basics I know it looks a little intimidating especially when we're about to expand to advance don't worry it's really not that bad so we open up to Advanced and that's going to give you way more options but don't be deterred by it if you don't understand it you don't need to mess with it that's totally fine in terms of quality this is all going to change the same as it did before when you go and select your different quality it's going to automatically change your layer Heights and all of that I really wouldn't mess with anything here if you don't really need to two really cool features though are your ironing and your wall generator now ironing is going to smooth out your top surfaces and I've talked about this in some uh some other videos if you've seen all the flexi rexis I've been printing for my Etsy I have ironing enabled on those top layers because it makes them come out so much smoother and it just finishes that top layer and kind of melts it all together it literally keeps the nozzle hot and just irons over it experiment with this cuz it does not it it doesn't suit every need all of the time and it's not going to get rid of a lot of top layers on certain prints so play around with it the wall generator is pretty cool I pretty much always have mine set to Arachne I always thought it was Arcane but maybe it is I don't know I don't know what that word is I have it set to that though and it actually um varies the width of the the walls and it just it helps with the strength of the print and the quality um and it also from what I've noticed it reduces slicing times because it doesn't need to it doesn't need to work worry about printing um fine thin layers at a spot that doesn't need it um again experiment with this it's a really cool little feature and it's definitely shaved down some slicing and printing time on my prints strength is a big one too what are you printing are you printing something that you're going to mount on a wall and hang off of or are you printing just some cosplay and props for my needs and Necessities I'm printing with pretty low infills and I'm almost always using gyroid patterns so again there's a lot here if you're using uh things for strength you can up your wall count and upping your wall count is significantly more beneficial to strength than it is just adding infill if you can add more walls the stock is two you can go to three four five I've even done seven depending on big anime cosplay swords I've done I've done seven and eight walls and it makes those things so much stronger if you go all the way to the bottom you'll see infill combination and this does something similar to that wall generator where it'll make the infill thicker um in certain areas but it'll keep your wall thickness and your layer height the same so the outside will still print the same but the infill will now be printed at like a varying layer height to help uh just strengthen the part a little bit better it's a pretty cool feature it hasn't really increased or I haven't noticed a big difference with it but leaving it on hasn't hurt anything to this point now speed this is probably the most annoying thing about orca slicer speed is not as clear-cut as it is in things like Cura where you can just go to print speed select 50 mm a second and then move it to 100 mm a second and it automatically drags everything up it does does a roundabout way of just showing your print speed which is very very handy and I really wish they would update this or change this to to kind of reflect that it's just easier to do if I want my printer to print faster I can just up the printing speed Orca kind of broke that down a little bit more into its first layer speed which I usually always leave the first layer speed the same I want a good bed adhesion let your first layer cook don't rush it and then you can start doing other speeds on my p1p I can do up to uh 200 300 and2 200 mm a second wall printing which is great the p1p can do that but if I go to something like I don't know my Neptune 3 plus it's going to significantly slow that down and this is actually much slower than what even elu Cura recommends so what you might be recommended to do is open up your old slicing programs or go get those profiles and see what the recommended printing speed was cuz I know I can print anywhere from 50 to 100 mm a second on my Neptune 3 plus it's a bed Slinger but again that speed is going to depend on are you printing something tall and do you want it to wobble back and forth or is it a low flat part so always take that in consideration but as I increase the outer wall speed nothing else is going to change so I'm going to need to then go okay my inner wall I can double that if I want to double the speed you just have to go and type it I just wish there was a more streamlined version way of doing this but you can definitely increase and decrease the speeds in Orca it just isn't as easy okay now we are on to supports and this is always the vein of everybody's existence when 3D printing right off the bat I'm just going to say at first just use normal Auto or normal tree now we're going to go back and forth between support painting and these settings and what I mean by that is if you go up here to this part let's say I don't know I'll do this little Tall part go up here to support painting and as long as you have supports enabled it's going to show you all of these little red spots that's where it's going to try to generate support it's going to immediately tell you where it needs supports if I un select support and I cycle out of this and go back to support painting that red area is gone so support painting is telling you oh there's no spot I'm going to try to support because you have supports turned off make sure you turn them on so you see where it's automatically trying to fill in so let's turn that back on go back to support painting now say I don't need this or you know what we're going to switch over to a helmet because it's going to make a lot more sense perfect a Mandalorian helmet you guys are all familiar with this I've made this on my channel before so we go to support painting and you can see it wants to support that inner Dome and if you know me and you know my channel you know you don't need to do that so we come over here to Circle or sphere or fill and we can change the pen size right clicking tells it to add more supports so everywhere where I make green it's going to put even more supports than it thought it needed however I can go the reverse of that and if I left click or sorry if I right click and hold my bad play with your mouse you know what I mean now I can block out these supports so I don't want supports generated in here at all and as long as I have it on auto it'll still generate supports where all of the red is not where I painted where it's telling me I need supports so let's go ahead and just generate this well these are the supports it's trying to put here but you can see it blocked out the inside successfully cuz I told it not to print there now if you're using the auto generate like I said it's always going to put supports where it thinks it needs them however if I move over to manual it's only going to put supports where I tell it to so if I go over to normal manual and I slice the plate again you can see it didn't generate support anywhere because I didn't highlight or paint on those supports so if you want full control over where you put your supports you need to go to manual and you can do normal or tree I pretty much always do tree so we'll go through it really quick one more time we do the painting and we can go over oh you know what works let's go back let's put it back on normal to see where it's trying to generate supports and then we can go and actually block a lot of these out so let's do this let's go to the brush and we can brush on supports only around the bottom here and you can get a little sloppy with it it's really not the end of the world and you'll see what I mean as it generates it so I only need supports there let's do a little bit in here this little fill can comes in handy if you mess with the angle it'll help with uh determining where you're actually trying to click select this brim select that that and that so now I can go back to normal and slice it and it's only going to generate supports where I told it to and voila I know it looks strikingly similar to the ones before because I just kind of clicked all the same spots but like I said this gives you so much more control over support placement with Advanced things if you think it's not generating enough supports automatically go and add more of your own for stability I actually had to do that with this cute little Mew print back here cuz it was autogen ating supports but the tail was just it just didn't look like enough and I didn't want to increase my um I didn't want to decrease my threshold angle because when you do that it just puts less supports everywhere else so you can go and add and just do this nice combination again play around with it it's a really really awesome feature and it just gives you freedom on placing them wherever you want aside from that I'm not changing anything else I'm changing my quality my density my walls or supports depending on the print I'm messing with my supports themselves that's about it there's not a bunch of stuff you need to change again it gives you so many options and read them and play with them and change whatever but you always have the option to just easily revert back and undo all the changes you made this way nothing's saved or locked in forever and you can also save profiles and change them and create you can do all of that stuff it's very easy to do now the last thing I want to show you guys how to do is link your printers that have the ability to be remotely controlled if you have a bamboo you can automatically use bamboo studio and when you load up Orca it just finds them so when you go to when I go to my p1s or my p1p you can see up here I can go to device and I have my p1p and I can remote watch and monitor it and control it and send prints that's great you can see this low quality camera chugging away the p1p and p1ss cameras are not good but it works and I can slice and I can remotely send so once I slice this plate right here I can automatically select what to do I can export it as a sliced plate I can send them to the printer or I can just automatically print it if you hit print plate or print all it's going to send the file and immediately start printing it I like to manually upload first and then I'll go back because you can go to the actual device and just check over the control of it but if you have a different printer and I'm about to show you how to link the k1s and K1 Maxes cuz as far as I know these are the only ones you can do it with so far but you might be able to do it with other printers as long as you get the IP address and this will make sense in a minute now the quickest way to link the K1 and the K1 Max or really any printer I think you might be able to do this with is to cheat I cheated a little bit so I opened up creality print and once you link your printers it'll find them on the network it'll you know you have your little scan ad manual that as long as when you open the printer you added it to your Wi-Fi and it's right there on the touch screen it's super easy to do and I'm going to blur a lot of this out because it has the IP addresses of my printers and I don't need you guys knowing that in this area once there is a printer added it will have your IP address and that's exactly what you need creality print uses this to monitor your printer and you can control it and do all of this awesome stuff but I have this window open and I'll go back to Orca slicer go over to my K1 Max over here and then I have a K1 Max build plate loaded all the settings and fun stuff you click your little Network button over here and you type in your IP address IP address here and you just hit okay and what that'll do is it'll generate a separate profile at the top you can see here the pre-loaded printers but now at the top I have all of my k1s specifically linked so if I select my top right and I named it this so I could figure out what is what I can then go over to device and I can monitor that printer I can import G-Code I can see the G-Code that is already on it and immediately start printing it I can check the print history I can exclude object I can check out my horrible bed mesh and I have full control over the printer the same way I had in creality print and actually creality print doesn't have the exclude object fe uh feature which if I go over here to uh my top left and I go to the device you can see I am currently printing looks great I can see everything and I can also exclude object which is such a cool feature if you guys didn't know about this say I'm monitoring the print and one of these little rexies failed say the one in the bottom left or bottom right failed I can come over here and just tell it to stop printing that specific one it is great for mass production and I've already used it a few times but I don't want to actually do that what is this bed mesh now this is the one downside if I come over here and I slice this plate and I want to export this I'm only given two options I can hit print and I can try to upload it to the pr printer it's going to give me an error there is a way around this but it involves downloading a lot more stuff and hopefully somebody cracks it eventually um to make it easier but the roundabout way I do it instead of printing just hit export save it save gcode just save it to your desktop go back over to device hit import and just upload it that's it it's like two extra button presses and you still have remote printing then I can go onto the printer and immediately start printing it so it's as linked as it could be and you have to do like two extra steps oh well the only thing I can't do in Orca slicer is pull the time-lapse video if I open up creality print and I select my printer it gives me a third option here for time-lapse video that's saved onto the printer I think this just has to do with root access and again I'm sure there's a way around it so if you want your time-lapse video just keep creality print and this is the only reason you're going to need it to get your IP address a lot easier pull your time lapse but I mean hey this works I can monitor all of my printers at once this is great now other printers that do have Wi-Fi connectivity the prusia markv with the Wi-Fi module my crm4 the uh Neptune 4 Max and plus um I know those have Wi-Fi and I'm sure there's a way to link it I haven't figured those out quite yet and there's no camera but you should be able to like remote send the G-Code maybe if I can figure that out uh I'll do a second follow-up tutorial and especially if you guys have questions if you have any comments questions concerns like always leave the comments down below I read all of them and I will do my best to respond to as many as possible and maybe make a follow-up video if you guys want more clarification on something but that's kind of it for this quick overview and I know it really wasn't quick it was like a 15 20 minute video but I wanted to give you all of the information that I currently have on Orca slicer now hopefully none of you are already in the comments being like Frank you left out this and blah blah blah I no stop if you have something constructive or you have a tip leave that in a nice comment hey by the way if you guys are thinking about this or hey check out that leave the good comments if you know more about this program than me let people know down below and this way people can browse if if there's a good enough comment I'll pin it or I'll favored it this way you guys can help sort through them um there's definitely plenty I don't know about this program and I'm learning just like you guys and if you liked what you saw in this video please consider subscribing to the channel I am so excited to finally have this remote control without having to update and connect a bunch of things and do octoprint and raspberry pies or whatever this is so much easier it's a great program it has greatly increased the quality of my prints my supports come off like butter now I love it so uh yeah I'm very excited to continue to play with this and it's just a cool program but that's going to be it for this video guys I have been talking non-stop for like half an hour I appreciate everything thank you so much for watching you have a good [Music] day [Music]

Channel: Frankly Built

Views: 23,475

Keywords: orcaslicer, orka slicer, orca slicer, orca, slicer, 3d printing program, 3d printer, best 3d prininting program, best 3d tutorial, orca slicer tutorial

Id: 9bsEFRemOoE

Length: 22min 37sec (1357 seconds)

Published: Sat Dec 23 2023