How to make a Sandbox | Paul Sellers

hello everybody this is my material for a sandbox that I'm making for my granddaughter oh I made it actually for my granddaughter that's not where it originated my original sandbox was for each of my children when they grew up so I made a sandbox in in Britain and then I made one in Texas when I lived in Texas I made a second one in Texas when I moved house and it didn't the first one didn't go with us and so I'm going to show you how I made it I think it's a great project because these stands about 18 inches high and it's ideal for toddlers you know 1415 months up and you can put your sand in it you don't you sounding it's got outriggers you take the cover off the middle section move it to the outside those become tables little platforms for kids to put their play equipment on make sand castles and that sort of thing and so we're going to make this I got mine to my granddaughter just in time for the lockdown and she has played in it every single day since the lockdown over the last six or seven weeks now I think so I was glad to get that to her in time and I'm hoping to get you this in time for the summer months when the kids can play if you live in an apartment you've got a balcony you could put one on a balcony put one on the patio put one in the garden somewhere and I think you'll enjoy having this on the patio it's also I forgot to tell you it can double as a compost bin so if your potting your plants on you could sit at a chair and you could put your plants and if you wanted to make the legs longer you could have a stand-up one but it also when you take the table parts out from the outside and put them back over the top to cover what's inside you have a nice little patio table for serving drinks and so on so I think you'll enjoy making this with me and it's a simple project that anybody can make so enjoy I've got my wood together I've got my tools here I'm ready to go so we're gonna start by doing a little bit of mapping out to see where we're going [Music] one of the things that I've done with this particular layout I have assumed that you might not have access to a piece of wood this wide which is basically in America that would be 2 by 6 or 6 by 2 in the UK and and what they are is five and a half inches by one and a half inches because we're working with one and a quarter inch stock but you may want to stay with the one and a half inches that would save you milling it to a narrower or thinner material so there's nothing wrong with that and you can take the standard five and a half inches for a two by six then that will work perfectly fine you don't have to go to the the exact sizes that I'm giving you if you put up prepared to work it out my materials I want four and five eighths for my side it just means you'd have an eighth of an inch difference or not an eighth of an inch difference it just means that you would have a wider depth to yours and I've got I've got four and five eighths to the sides of mine when I combine these two together now I what I've done for economy I've taken one piece of wood and I've added another piece of wood underneath and what these two out set outside ends make their the handle and the other side of this mid section is the box where the play son goes so that will give you an explanation it's just economic really it's just more me being economic so to get where I want to get to what I have to do is start mapping out let me get rid of some of this I'll keep those two because the layout on the opposite side is exactly the same and what I suggest you do my material is 66 and three-quarter inches long which makes a centerline of 33 and 3/8 so if I find the center and make a mark across it square it across just like that and then maybe down onto one face I'm going to put it on the outside face that's my centerline on that piece I've got a 36 inch piece here which is enough to make the arches and have enough material on the end so splitting 36 into I've got the wrong piece I think dude there's my right piece sorry about that I thought something was wrong that was 37 inches this one's 36 so split the difference again right in the middle 18 inches make a center line to square it across square it across and those then can be lined up on there and that gives me the equi distance I need on each end and that's going to form the handle so all I have to do to this now is I've got to connect this piece to this piece and there's a couple of ways you can do it you can literally just glue it with a water a waterproof glue or a water resistant glue I'm going to use a water resistant glue you can literally just glue it and clump it and leave it for a little while maybe a couple of hours or you can do as I'm going to do and you can glue it and then drive three 3-inch screws through one into the other and that means you can carry on working on this thing straight away you don't have to plug the holes because there will be on the underside and so that's the way I'm going to do it just purely so I have the other de surance of having a fixing there which means it probably would never come apart with those because what happens with some when you're working in a sandbox when you're 18 months old you have sand in there and then somebody says well why don't we put some water in there and then you put a bucket of water in there and before you know it you've got this goopy mess at saturating all the wood and that's what's going to happen some box so you might as well face it it's a great project but that's what's going to happen what that does them once I've got these together I can take something like this and this has got a two and five-sixteenths radius and I put this on when I get to the end and I can make a nice little round that will form into the handle because I'm going to rip this at the end pieces down to a nice radius on the underside so when you lift this up and you're moving it across the patio with your friend your partner your wife whoever you have nice grips to move it in and out of action so that's what I'm going to do I'm going to pull this together and I'm going to drill holes and screw this together now so I'm ready [Music] [Music] I'm ready to drill holes and I'm ready to drill through the first piece I'm gonna drill to the underside into the underside of the top part of this so this is if you've got solid wood you won't be doing any of this but what I want to do I want to make sure that I avoid putting screws where there's going to be a dado so I'm coming in from me and four inches and then that will clear I believe I'm going to check so that puts me exactly where the dado is going to go so that's not going to work so I'm gonna come in 28 inches so my dado is going to be on the outside of that mark so I'm going to come in harmony so in other words come in four and a half inches from the end and you will miss if you're doing exactly the same way I'm doing mine you will miss your data that will put you well into the right place [Music] so drill through the first one right in the center with the 3/16 bit I know quarter inch bit [Music] and then go slap bang in the middle for a middle way and how I get the middle is I just literally use my fingers I've actually got a pencil line there but I would just use my fingers get the balance and then drill in that balance part what we're doing on this one is exactly the same is on the opposite side so I only need to show you this once I'm countersinking because it seeks the screw better looks neater and I'm using three inch screw so give me a little bit of extra depth to cinch this screw tight along this edge there's my centerline so a little bit of glue I'm going with the waterproof glue with a zigzag down the full-length don't even bother to spread it I'm just going to flip it upside down get it on the centerline I'm moving half an inch each side of that center line just to spread the glue like that and then I've got my screws ready that's going into that one one of the quarter inches which is plenty of length cinch it nice and tight push your second screw in and then you complain the surfaces if they need it nice and smooth so we'll let that one set up I'm going to do the second one and then we'll get back together when we start looking at the layout for the joinery for this [Music] you [Music] you once you've got your end pieces and your long side pieces together cleaned up and planed up and what I did with my side pieces I made mine up again I just found it as economical to buy in England we can buy two by threes which are not two by three is their metric and so there's something like 32 by 63 or 64 millimeters and so all I've done is cut them in two playing up the jointed edges and screw them together just like I did on the others and that will work for everything that I want I can crack on with the job so doesn't take very long very much to do not much to teach you on that but now I've got my pieces ready I'm ready to do a little mapping out I'm going to map out how the rails relate because I'm going to be cutting these down to one and a quarter thick from the top edge so it'll be the same thickness square and then I'm going to put a radius on there starting at 35 inches when I've cut this till I don't let these 36 inches long so I'm going to be coming in half an inch from each of these points here I'll come in half an inch square align up bring this other line across and then I'm going to take my tin top which is two and five-sixteenths in diameter so it's four and five eighths radius from one side to the other I'm going to place it on there and unite those two pieces and that will give me the map I need to know where I'm going to be subsequently cutting when I shape these handles so that's what I'm going to layout for now if you've got a template like this or you can simply use a pair of compasses like this and scribe yourself that way you'll have to put a block of wood like this inside the corner to get round that corner with it but that works fine so lots of options it's up to you which method you choose I'd go for something similar and remember it doesn't have to be four and five eighths can be four inches it can be three and a half inches or it could be bigger provided you've left these two pieces long enough for them to be bigger I worked out that 36 inches was long enough to give me the radius I wanted at four and five four and five eighths yes for two and five-sixteenth sorry so I'm ready to do some laying out and I'm going to show you how we do that personally it's at this point where I might choose which has the better face for the outside edges and in my case those are the best faces so on the on the top here I will simply mark a triangle like this like this and like this and then I know which faces come together and which end they point to it works fine and that's the way I'm going with mine so these are the outside faces I'm going to mark my layout on the outside faces the first thing I'm going to do is set a marking gauge to one and a quarter inches and that simply means moving this stock one and a quarter you could go a little bigger if you want to I kind of like the idea of it just being a half moon when I finish and then we're gonna run a line down here the problem is we don't know where to start and stop until we have this line going up this way so I've got minus 36 inches long so I'm going to come in a half inch from this end here like that square a line up like that and then I'm going to set my I'm just setting my beam on my square the comfort on the combination Square to one and a quarter inches and then I can use that and see a pencil line is always a temporary line I can use a temporary line just like that and that will guide me when I take my template or use my compass or whatever I use so if I take this now place it right on those two lines I've got a very nice radius and I'm going to use a coping saw to remove that when I get to it so you can see how it fits nicely within the extent of this 36 inch piece so it works great so now I can set my I can run my gauge line also to that line just like that and I can do it on both sides as well and I can I went past my line there not my intention just with not thinking I can also take this line transfer it onto the inside like this and then I can akka mock the inside of the radius knowing that they're exactly aligned to those corresponding lines so this now goes on here and so I can use the rust to refine the line later so I do the same on all four corners for that so that's what I'm going to do next [Music] [Music] we're ready to start laying up for the joinery now we've got all the materials cleaned up we've got the mapping out for the joint for the joinery and we've got centralized still on the top of this piece of the backplane - all mine out and so I've got to reestablish that Center water because I've got it on the top I've got a distance that we want in between which is going to be my bottom drawing typically it's going to be 28 inches in between the two side pieces so in other words this piece is going to be set into here like this 28 inches from this one so I want it centered so I'm using the center line to reference from and I come from that line 14 inches and I'm going to burn the first two inches so I'm going to start at two inches and go to 16 inches that will give me a 14 inch distance from the line so there's my 16 inches you understand that because of the flexing the tape and everything and then from that line I go 28 inches but I'm going to go 30 inches and take 2 inches off so that will give me 28 inches in between and the reason I left it that distance was I wanted a little extra meat but wood on the outside of these housing dedos because that's important that they have enough strength to support the pressure square the line across square this line across up and it's square the lines on to this face just that heart that well whatever depth we're going to I've forgot more depth we do these and then stand it up onto the top that one thing so the top edge is expose to make that line across there now this is the position of the inside faces the end pieces so we're going to be moving out from those two pieces what I do now to make sure I've got everything married in the right way I bring the two pieces together line up my center lines like that and then I square that all that little line across onto the this one here that way I've got the exact distance and what I'm going to do while I've got this position here I'm going to see if I can use our wealth find my life now I've got my knife and I'm just going to make a small Nick across the two of those just to guarantee that they're exactly the same when I come to actually cutting them because I can use that as a reference point to put my knife into when I do the construction part of this when I start doing the layout for the knife walls that's great so I'm ready to I'm gonna let everything out with pencil line first because it helps me to know exactly where I'm going so let me go ahead and lay one out and then you'll know that I'm laying both of them out the same way I take the side piece late on that pencil liner slide my square up to it and make the second wall that's the position of the second knife wall and I do the same on the opposite one making sure that I go on the outside of that line not the inside so if I put my square on the line slide my piece of wood directly up to it and make a second pass with my pencil I've got the exact position of my knife walls that will go into this if I square the lines onto the top and bottom as well then I can set my my depth on a marking gauge that I'm going to servants and use that in between these pencil positions very fast very efficient and very effective so now gage has to be set and I'm going to check on the depth of that and give you that as I get to it when I set the depth of this gage which is okay so I've got seventeen and a half in between so they're going in quarter of an inch these housing there those are to adapt the quarter-inch so simply take your gage set it to quarter of an inch like that and really gauge line right in between those lines neatly and that's the depth we're going to soar down to chop down to rout out and get the exact depth we want clip over onto the top edge this is the visible edge so don't run fast like that so now we're ready to cut these dados I'm going to map out the other side and get that ready so I'll be doing them both together at the same time as I cut them it's just a quicker more efficient way of working [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] I'm going right in that gauge line now but I'm shooting for the sky so it's pointing upwards and I don't shoot all the way through to the side that you are I would come this way to remove the bulk of it like that but I want that edge to be crisp and clean and now I'm going to go with the router and I'm going to set it for a shallow pass on the high points so just let that foot of the router blade hit the surface and then work it in this this softwood is quite hard to get a decent finish on so you have to be a little bit more what's the word gentle I guess take off a little bit at a time don't use it like a bulldozer and work your way down to that level this packet that surface choose the best angle for your when you get to the not like I've got there just take a little corner of the router don't use the full width of it and it'll come away quite cleanly if you do that and that just seemed to drop right to the final depth there you did I think so now I'm pressing down with my right hand and now my left I'm feeling for the grain because it changes and that's because I've not gone deep enough here so just a password the knife usually will take care of it you don't want to go too deep because you're weak on the side of your sound box [Music] don't go all the way through because you'll break that edge the unsupported fibers will break off break away and that's that now I'm pretty certain that my piece is not yet ready to fit did I get the right hand and and the reason it doesn't is because I made the recess a little fat what I'm gonna do is take my plane and just feather that edge in just like that and what the benefit of that is what it did is it can compress the fibers there's a lot of compression in this particular type of softwood so I can use that to my advantage I've got it in it's nice and tight and it's pretty much seated it just needs a little nudge more but that's it so I'm going to do the other three now and they'll be done exactly the same way [Music] [Music] hey what we're gonna do now we're going to start pitching around this line here how do we do this so we're gonna use a coping saw I'm gonna do a long rip along this edge here into the curve first and that means I'm gonna put it in the vise I think and rip along this long I do it so it cuts away from the line by you leave the line in and work from both sides lines on both sides this will help you to stay square as you progress along the curtain into my line I'm right on the very edge of it so remember when you bend a saw into the line you can be bending the saw so that it creates a curved cut in exactly the opposite direction to the one you want to go [Music] that's what woodworking is all about sensitivity is accuracy no matter which way you slice it so I'm going to cut this off I saw with my you could do one at a time you can tell them to you wanna stop okay so I'm gonna slow down just until I kiss the surface of the arc where they are [Music] down there the coping so we'll do it I think it's not very thick one 1/4 will see double-handed on the forward stroke and fibula power thrust [Music] [Music] [Laughter] after alternate toggles here so the back on the saw isn't arguing with my word [Laughter] I do believe the saw is easier than chiseling [Music] make sure you don't go deep [Music] all right now the rasp not come through on to this space I didn't keep it I didn't tell him do it thrust cut all the way through I worked upwards a little bit because otherwise this rough will break out this outside surface same [Music] think you could get easier than ice so nice you might want to break the corner Thanksgiving a little nitwit dick rasp and then when you come to scrape or sand or whatever you want to do I'm gonna do all the other four and then I'll get back with you but we've got this to round over after that and I'm just rounding the underside not the top side because I want the square edges to the top side so I'm gonna carry on with this now and do the other three [Music] it really wouldn't do any good to try to use a bespoke shame on this that the wood is too soft for one thing and it really doesn't do well on these tycoons you can use the rasp you can use some paper you can use chisel and you can use the scraper like I'm using here just to refine it a little bit more but it's on the underside and it's not really seen [Music] so it's up to you you just don't want splinters for that little child okay so it's book shake now that's the next thing and we need a flat-bottomed spokeshave then you could combine with between the rasp and the spoke say so just pull as a long strokes up take the corner off of 45 degrees just start at the beginning of the round I've been work towards the top edge it doesn't have to be a semicircle what's the more wood you leave in there the meat is to resist any breakage once you've got that flat on there that 45 on both sides you can start rounding over as you would the lid of a box I'm going to show you something else if you've got a stroke-play you can also use that on the side edge and it feels good it doesn't have to be a and again you can use a scraper on this if you want to and tie a few you can bend it to the surface make it conform it except nd one like this one is and then it's just a question of expanding it three more to do I've got these two to do I just wanted to mention something I'm just thinking about it my assumption is that everybody's always been with us for years everybody's has always been with me for years but I know that's not the case with many of you probably and there's some things you don't know about these hand tools like I'm using a spokeshave now and did you know that I'm very very rarely set the spokeshave blade level with the sole as you would with a plan you would always do that with a plane but with a spokeshave it's a very different tool it is a form of a plane but what I do is I set one side flush with the edge of the mouth and the other side protruding quite considerably probably even as much as a millimeter and that means that I can use this is my deep side here so when listen so that's much more aggressive and when I come to this side much less aggressive so I hug off with this side like that the ball come away stuff in just a few strokes so I've got I now have three facets on PA blue I've got three facets on there and now I go to the middle of the spokeshave and I refine it by taking successive shocks working it into the arc so now it's got it feels very comfortable even without any scraping the salmon same on this side heavy side dick take your bulk off and then move towards the lighter side it works great I didn't invent it it's just one of those things it got passed down from word of mouth by one master woodworker to his apprentice and now it's coming to you my apprentice so she's so much to learn so many things small things Oh guitar on the heavy side I've done my heavy hogging now I'm going to get the grace I'm coming with the green now so even that I was going against the grain which felt quite well but because it was going against the grain it was pulling the tool to task these are all small things and I'm teaching people all over the world but they go yeah that makes sense and they get it but they might never have learned it had they not listened to me or somebody else and that's why we craftsmen do what we do is to make sure that the knowledge of these tools have new methods and techniques of working them don't die with us and you'll find things that you'll come across you'll be melting how about that ok one more to do now I did all our talking great [Music] I'm ready to start assembling these four pieces together and what I decided on mine is that I'm going to screw it together but I'm going to plug the screw heads with wooden plugs to conceal the screws because it will look neater but it doesn't have anything to do with the strength or the structure of the piece when it's done is purely aesthetic it's just so I don't see screws out the side I'll make my first one with the screws showing I'm making this one without the screws shop it's my choice your choice whatever you want to do so I've got these two and these are the outside faces and all I got to do is bring up the line from the middle of the to housing day of the housing dedos alter this top face so that I can see where I'm going to put my holes and I usually what I do is drill a three X hole and that's the size of the screw head and also the size of my plug cutter so I can use the three inch plug cutter to cut plugs on the drill press pillow drills come here it set your distance from the end of your combination Square to one inch and you can use that then to mark the crosshairs on here and that may when you put the plugs in the bugs will be apparent you can still see the plugs but that way they will look nice and even transfer onto this top face as well and we're on our way ready to start drilling the plug holes I've got my my 3/4 my three-eighths brick bit brace brace bit ready and sharp and good to go and what I've done is I counted the number of terms it takes to go quarter of an inch deep and it takes six terms so it's going down with each revolution at a specified distance because it pulls itself in according to the snail on the beginning of the bit so as soon as the outside Spurs start to kiss the surface there it's just touching now I start counting one two three four five six so I know now that I've gone to that depth [Music] [Music] once you've got those counters out you can go with them whatever size bit works really I've got a 3/16 bit which will work for mine just drill all the way through now through the center eye of that hole you just drilled once you've done all eight of them and that's just a question bill driver really and the glue I'm going to use a waterproof glue or a water-resistant glue and then just because it's going to get wet first make sure there's nothing inside those recesses to stop it from going together and I've got my numbered if you remember I got the mark to put letters inside so I know exactly which piece goes to where and that one's gonna go there which makes this one going here this I'm done with from now at least and I just need a driver to drive the screws and I'm using two and a half inch long screws which is plenty long enough it's going through there's only a quarter of an inch of material left for it to go through before it hits the main end pieces so that's great so let's get rid of one of these just stay grab a seat waterproof glue and all I do he's right down the center of the housing dado I just run a zigzag all the way up I don't even spread it because it's going to spread anyway leave it down get this piece ready to go in check you've got the right piece which I think I do and slide it into the housing dado drop it on each side and drive that first screw no pilot hole into the main end piece - that's that do the same on the other three and we're good to go we're already moving along [Music] I've got my plugs cut ready to drive them into the holes and that's just a question of ruining a bead of glue around the edge of the rim of the plug and then dropping it into the hole I find it easier to put a blob of glue onto a block of wood like this on a scrap HFO my glue bottle and then all I do is I push it into the glue edge and spin it around and that gives me enough glue on there and then I drop it into each of the holes and tap it down you can tap it flush if you want to align the grain up with the grain a long grain of the long axis if you leave them to set up just for a few minutes and then you can playing them trim them sand them flush whatever you choose to somebody's gonna be very happy bring you some box in a few hours time this is what we love we granddad's anyway granddad's your grandmom's - I've never seen a grandma make the Sun box but they're up there was grandmother's doing the same thing I'm doing okay all we do with these now is we just pair cut the surface like that and that's all there is to it there's nothing more complicated nothing less complicated it's dead straightforward then you can sand it or plain it I think I could just take a whisker up with this it's the plane like this that gets rid of the glues as well so you don't have any if you're gonna stain this I am going to put a finish on this that has combing in it so only because I've got what colouring I've got the finish that I want to use it as well so I might as well use it it'll help protect it too [Music] let's see that's it I'll have to do now a little bit of something on that get rid of the pencil marks that kind of thing and then I'm ready to put work on the legs next it's probably easier now if you wanted to and I do is to just plain these top edge is flush or the fine setting on your playing try and work with the grain and take that shaving off get rid of the pencil lines the same time same on the underneath get the other side close these are all push now same on the underneath less important on the side so it means that the rims that you're going to put around the perimeter of this will automatically line up when you put the few pieces in that support the Boston pieces [Music] nice nice nice okay there you have it that's where we end up on that one see that I'm ready to move this around the patio wherever I need to [Music] I'm ready now to cut the angles for the legs and that means that the rake of the legs here goes like this so what I did is I set up attracted to 106 degrees and then I used the protractor to set my sliding bevel to to the to the angle that I needed it takes me a few minutes to work it out so I've set the protractor and then I set the sliding bevel that gave me the angle that I wanted to the top and bottom of the legs and the legs are 18 inches long so across the face of the legs from the very tippy tip corner all the way down to the bottom I strike my line that gives me the angle I want and I have to have a parallel line so that means I've got to go down to the bottom corner and do exactly the same so I've got my line this way that gives me the seat cup where the sandbox will sit on the on the ground or on the patio or wherever and I've got my top cut and that's going to be set down from the top rim 3/4 of an inch I believe that's what it is but we'll check on the drawing and then so I'm going to cross cut those using the knife wall and the sliding bevel to establish the exact angles that I want and so I'm going to do that on all of my pieces so use the sliding bevel and then the square for the square edges or the square edge in this case could have come due to it and then on to that other side using the knife wall as the reference point and then I just set that in the vise chisel into the knife wall as I always do with a wage chisel just to set my saw into the crosscut and simple nothing nothing simpler I don't think there's much simply you could use a crosscut saw just can use a tensor see how I do with this all the way down and playing watch for the breakthrough and that's it saying on the other end and the same on all the other three mics so there it is that's how it's going to seat in the final piece on the inside of the box rim and we'll be going to do a recess for it next but we'll just cut those two lengths first and then we're ready to start the next stage you just plain the ends to your cut line you do both hands I have to look for which hand is going above and which is going to the ground then it just takes a couple of seconds to get a nice crisp clean edge on there because inside the box one of these is going to shell and I've got two more to do these pieces now are going to be opposites they have to be opposites and you have to put the housing recess 3/8 of an inch deep so we're going to cut a 3/8 of an inch deep recess on one side of these and so that has to be the insides of both pieces so it's not a bad idea to go ahead and mark these pieces so this is my outside face this is the face that's going to go inside the box this is inside the box so I'm marking these with a triangle that tells me how I've paired those this is the same so this will go this way this is an outside face I'll do the same again so that tells me these are this triangle tells me this is the top of the leg and my recesses are going to go on the outside faces so I set a marking gauge to 3/8 of an inch deep like that just just so I can room my depth to that gauge line and and so these nights are so I have to be now find out how far down the the recesses are going to go so to do that I take the pair whichever pair I decide to use like this and so this one is going here and this one is going here and what I want to do is mess it down 5/8 of an entry quarters of an inch from the top so what I'm going to do is set the gauge this combination square to 3/4 of an inch from the end so I've got a distance from the end of there to the stock 3/4 and I just used that I could use a marking gauge to and you can just to pull a pencil line 3/4 of an inch down then I can set my piece of wood to that depth and on that line and I can make a mark on the underside and that then gives me the position for the recess the shoulder line to that recess take my sliding bevel offer that to the pencil line and Mark it all the way across and I've got my angle I take the pair then and bring them together like this square the line across from one flush the ends square the line across from one side to the other so I've got both of them being marked then I bring my sliding bevel in again and run that to that line that way they're exactly the same once I've done that I can take my marking gauge if I can remember where I put it with okay and then I just simply run the gauge line up across the top and down the opposite face and I'm doing this while I've got it in my hand and while I've got my marks because there's nothing worse than cutting these and finding you've cut the wrong one so that's my pair this is an outside phaser this is an outside face go ahead and mark them both and do the same on the others the other pair run your gauge line just like that and those are now ready for us to progress by cutting them so I've got this that's what we've got to do next I'm going to do the layout on the other two and I'll probably bring you in a little closer so you can see me doing that but I have this now I can take this out of the way I like and use the one piece that I originally marked to mark out the other two pieces so remember you just use your sliding bevel and all as long as you have the rake of the sliding bevel going in the same direction as the top you can't go wrong take that one up flip over on this one and run that opposite square them onto the edges just as a guide the visual and then run your game plan just like that now that we've got the physicians marked we've run the gauge lines we're ready to start creating the recess what I think I would do is I would use the router probably to get the depth perfectly to death so what I will do is I will took the shoulder line with the knife wall first square across to the day the gauge line and then chisel into a knife wall as we always do with a 1 inch chisel down with a saw to the depth line that's 3/8 deep if you remember try to go pass because it will show and it will weaken that leg if you're not guarded then we go up right in the vise I'm going right onto my line now I've got the square across line down the parallel line and then I turn around and come from this side very much that's my piece and actually I don't need to do any refining to that I can go straight for it if you have done a little rugged you can set up your router plane I know you do many times on many different things just set the depth so it just skims off the surface like that and just just pick up the surface that's all you're doing I'm pressing down with my right hand and I working from both sides like that just reset itself for some reason uh-huh I had a piece of wood wedged in behind the cutter that was holding it off so you can work across that surface just to get it smooth and there's another little trick here you might like I'll show you a pear cut along the surface like that until it's a maybe an inch wide then see if you don't like this take your smoothie place and then playing to your gauge line if this is rather wide and roll along you have leverage against me okay that's it and I'm dead on goal on the gauge line so on the shoulders of course is this is a sandbox remember I may be going a bit overboard but you can perk up your shoulders to get rid of the fuzzy bits into the shoulder make sure it seats well I do urge you to remember this is assam up on the top corner I want you to take your plane just break the corner [Music] just like that nothing just break the corner make it look nice and this now we'll see in this piece like that into the corner just like that on us all we're doing that's it we're going to do that and we're going to screw those in from the inside into the side acres [Music] [Music] what we're going to do now is drill holes into the legs where this meets the inside face of the box itself so what I suggest you do is take one of the pieces that you cut off and you can use this as a guide and roughly about an inch up from the shoulder line and maybe three-quarters of an inch in make a mark and then down from the top about an inch yet and in three-quarters of an inch you make a mark and then drill through the piece like that and you can use that then as a template on this piece either on the inside or on the outside just line it up with the top of the piece clamp it in the vise and drill through the whole lot oops so we just going to bore through both pieces and that way we can use that as a template for all of them but remember to make them opposites [Music] so when you take this piece off here here are my two opposites I flip this over and use that as the reference face this time and that way I'll get all of my holes in exactly the same opposite so they will look neat and as if I planned it [Music] and that's that so we do the other two exactly the same way and now we want to countersink these these are going to be visible I'm not going to hide these screws behind plugs because it's the inside of the sandbox so light countersink just to seat the students seating the screws and then judicious presenting of the screw down to the wood until it sees is key to making this look very nice inside so I'm going to do these other two and then we will be back together so this next little bit we are going to simply glue this and screw it to the inside face and that is plenty strong enough for two bags of sand and a little toddler to play out oh it could be your compost bin as well if that's what you're using it for so let it seat against that that underside that top knife wall edge that you made give it a couple of seconds just to set up and the glue and there you have it so I've got lines on line I've put the marks on the surface as well seat the screw that's all it needs it doesn't need anymore none of that driving it all the way through the wood step looking good I'm gonna leave that with the glue I don't mind the glue I'm just gonna leave that and I'm going to do the other three legs [Music] this next section is very simple I've cut my strips these are strips that go on the underside of the apron that goes around that forms the box itself and it's going to be flush on the outside and it's going to overhang on the inside so I'm using one and 5/8 stuck on one and a quarter so it means I'll have a a 3/8 slip all the way around the inside and on that lip we're going to sit the bottom boards it will just rest it sit inside this Sun box so I'm flushing the ends up here and I'm using the rake of the leg directly onto my piece of wood it doesn't have to be exact it's just that we're using this as an exercise in developing skill and an exercise to help us to develop skills should I say and I think it's important to work accurately so work as accurately as you can I've got these two angles on the outside and so now all I've got to do one on 5/8 I've got to go 3/8 of an inch deep so I've set the gauge to 3/8 of an inch and that should bring me flush with the outside when I come to push this into place so right in between those two lines I push the gauge now I haven't got to stop and stop point because it's on the underside of the box and even on the top side when I flip over I can I can do the same because it's not going to be seen because it's an internal corner anyway so there we have it and square you can square those lines down give you a guide to work to or a line to work - and then so all we're going to do is I'm not even going to now for all of his walls I think all I'm going to do go ahead and cut them directly with the small brass box or the jet so and then I'm just going to chisel the middle out and that's really all we have to do to make this happen just again there you have it that's what we're gonna do I'm just choosing my best face for the outside this is the support rail that goes underneath the apron so I mark the angle directly off right in the corner so I've got the exact distance I want [Music] [Music] ah it's not 3/8 deep this connection and XD sorry guys back to the drawing board I have to change that to one I want to leave 7/8 on according to this Oh mm-hmm so I've got to reset and read you another quarter of an inch on my marking gauge and that's a mistake so I'm gonna correct it by and I'm gonna come from the outside face so in other words I'm setting my gauge from the face of the outside to the outside of the leg and I'm glad I made the mistake cuz people will like enjoy that I'm sure so I'm going ivory changed and rejigged it so I hope you get to this bit before you make the same mistake and realize I've made a mistake so I'm going to continue cutting down this see that new level [Music] better to admit my how many of you saw that before I actually did it I'm just keeping it on top of here so you can see what I'm doing did you make the correction okay I'm in my gauge line now my new one taking care mmm can't see that don't you making a mistake so I'm just pairing out that deeper level carefully that's it perfect so now I've got my rim on the inside what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna just break the edges with my plane like this the joint line so I've got kind of it kind of it's a V I'm taking up the hard corner in case a little toddler goes underneath and catches their head or something like that that's it so that gets glued and screwed in place and that's what I'm gonna do now and I do exactly the same on the opposite side but this I'm just going to drill the hole through the baton the support rail into the main body so I've got one on one ace so I want to be just over a half inch will give me the position of this crow I'm going to put one on the outside [Music] and another just equally spaced them and then you can well equally you don't have to measure it just eyeball it again I would count to sink these as well so I'm just going through the first button that's all not into the main one I'd countersink it I prefer to countersink everything just simply because it helps the screws to seat nicely with [Music] I'm very conscious of taking up these any hard corners I don't you'd have to be obsessive about it but just to make sure there's no sharp corners wherever you can okay we're ready to screw this I'm going to put glue on as well just for the others strength just a zigzag but not too much I don't want too much squeezed out but the glue helps everything to seat that is yeah that's that side not doing exactly the same to the other side there's an exact opposite I didn't get any squeeze out which I did I didn't want squeeze out a glue squeeze out on that joint line it I don't need it I don't want it so I've got two notes this one now we get this distance inside here we've got a couple of things to do we've got to cut it to length so we can mark it directly off the in between like that just mark it and then we've got to do a little nuts out to the internal corner so I'm going to square this across sort of lens [Music] [Music] know if that fits in between she doesn't chop it up to the leg to make them up to get the distance and then whatever you're over hanging on this side you transfer to the recess right I'm gonna mark it directly off their leg sees me thinking so I'm using that and I set my finger at that pull it up to here and do the same on the other end and this line gets squared across onto this face this one onto this face and I'm just going to cut that now I'm not going to cut it at the angle because it's not necessary you know the act of the rake is the lag in this case it's really not necessary [Laughter] [Laughter] which also this one one more of these and I've got this rim all done just check it with a dry fit just fill your holes just two screws is enough for this [Music] [Applause] [Music] and run your beat is good [Music] [Music] and we do exactly the same on the other [Music] my next task is going to be to put the rails that go across the two legs this stops once you put all this weight into the the top section with the Sun and everything you want some rigid strength and so we're putting the cross member from one leg to the other that will double the strength of the single leg and make it the equivalent of two legs in one so we transfer a weight from one side to the other if you would lots of tables so this now goes on here and all we're doing is we're going to put a notch in here an inch and a quarter by a quarter-inch deep and that just gives us something to seat against so we're going to cut notch out on each end of that piece each end of this piece and then we're going to literally just glue it and screw it in place but I just want to clean it clean up take the corners off that kind of thing and and you can also if you want to sand it before it goes on that sort of thing and then you just glue it it's great place I'm gonna leave the the screws showing down there I just have some things that I feel differently about and I'm going to just countersink the screws on the bottom ones and this entirely up to you you can plug it and screw it or whatever you like but I'm going to show the counter some screws in this case so that's my next job so it's literally just offering this I offer it to the top right on the other side of the apron to get my positioning because it could be slightly out to parallel because of the distance and I just make a mark on the inside of both sides and that way I've got the exact position that I want square those lines down set a marking gauge to the quarter inch depth and you're on your way so that's what I'm doing and I hope you'll join me [Music] [Music] [Music] this rail comes up three and a half from the long point on the bottom of the leg so we're going to measure up three and a half on each side and I'm just going from the bench top because the legs are sitting on the bench making X the same on this side and I'm gonna put it right onto the lines and then I'm gonna mark the top so I can see more clearly that goes in there so my drill two holes in here but I'm gonna do a little bit of cleanup and sanding on this yet but that's getting me in the zone and getting me ready I'm gonna cut this other one for the other end too while I'm here [Music] so we're ready to screw these cross members in place humans grew and actually I've got to took cut a notch in the top of these but I think it's as easy to do it when it's already glued in place as it is afterwards so I'm just going to go ahead and wing it so a little bit of glue not much and a couple of screws in each end and we're good to go [Music] this is feeling quite rigid now the whole thing is just feeling good I feel perfectly happy about the whole thing so three and a half inches up from the one point and you got it [Music] my next task on the undercarriage area the legs the rails the stretches all of those things that make this a safe project is just to put a cross rail from one end on one side to the other and what this piece does is it when you're pulling this full of sound you know I don't know what a bag of Sun weighs probably 50 pounds maybe they'll have a hundred pounds 100 and more weight in here if it's wet so what I've done this before is if you're lifting this and you would be able to drag it across the patty on the deck or whatever and pull it the other way so other readers who the reason this one is going in it gives it that added security so this goes in here and we've got to notch it in so that's my next task is to make the notches in other side though it's only going down to the level of the when I knocked it I'm going to notch it to the back edge of this rail so that there is a flat surface from one side to the other that's simple enough so all I have to do is take a measurement from the underside of the rail to the back corner the inside corner and that's the depth I need to set the gauge to run on the other side very simple not complicated and it wouldn't matter if it was a perfectly seated either because we're going to be screwing this together who does math so I know it matters you're going to get it right I'm just saying it's not critical to the whole if we are slightly off and we will blue and screw this rail in place also so that's my next job when I was cleaning up this cross rail this stretcher as we call them and I realized something that I have just about beveled every corner on this and I would like to throw out this question and the question is whether you know why we put that bevel on there and I think the answer for me is so obvious but it may not be because some a lot of people think that sanding the callers to take off the hard corner is to make it more comfortable well it does do that but that's the secondary reason for doing it the primary reason for doing it is because when you apply any kind of outdoor wood finish whether that's water-based or polyurethane oil-based whatever when you put paint on if it goes to a sharp corner the paint stretches at that corner and it's super thin and that's why you'll see paint work its way away from the surface of the wood on corners and that's where the ingress of water takes place on that breaking point because paint stretches as it dries once it's dry it's super super thin on that point so that's the reason we do it and I want you to keep that in your hopper for the rest of your life because you'll then understand why we do it and it's not really for comfort it's for practical reasons both the practical reasons of course but that's the more practical because the paint will lust probably twice as long by that one simple thing okay I'm ready to mark the position on here and then it's going to be centered between the two legs so I sent it between the two legs by measuring easy enough and making sure the distance is equal once it's equal make a mark on each side and that's going to tell you where the position is and all we need to know next is what depth are we going to go to and to get that depth i as i said before enjoy it as easily I measure from the very top of this of the corner under here to the underside of that section to do that I take a simple block of wood like this place it flush with the underside or right onto the underside of the stretcher and then I take a pencil and I mark the inside and that's giving me the depth and I can set my marking gauge to this depth now confident that I can cut to that depth and that will be level when I make the day go in there and it will seat there perfectly [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] the next stage in our development of this project is to make the tongue and groove are not the challenge really half like ship like whatever we call it pieces that stuck up to go across the bottom of the box I've got my pieces ready these have got rounded edges here which I kind of liked to keep because I didn't I felt like it had a little texture to it and it came from a 2x4 in America four by two in the UK with the east corners that called comfort corners I just split it right down the middle Ricky on the bandsaw and gave me these pieces but you can use anything that's 5/8 of an inch by three and a half wide or something like that or you can work out to where you have equal size pieces I couldn't do that I didn't want to do that I just took it full width forward forward forward and then the last one will be a strip but what I've got to do the first one has a square edge because he butts up to that outside edge and then I've got a quarter inch by 5/16 rebate in there this one has 5/16 by quarter inch deep rebei and this one and then on the opposite side it has so it's staggered so you've got one on the top and one on the bottom and that means that when you offer this into the box you can just keep stacking them up like that and that's how we make the bottom it's very simple we use a plug I mean a a rabbit plane or a rebate plane to create a fill is to play and also it's cool to create those rebates in this in the pieces and it's really quite quick to do so that's what I'm going to do just take my piece of woods of this is the square edge that's going against the outside edge so I put this in the vise this way and I start relay to by moving the plane from the poor and gradually moving backwards like this until you get if you do it in short strokes like this and I've got my depth stop on my fence already set so it's got the right width and the depth is very nice now I'm going to bevel this edge because it's square so I'm just gonna take the scrub plane so it marries up to that adjacent one a little bit of some paper to surround it over and now see that's my piece done so I got it for [Music] [Music] now that I've got these lice boards where I want them to be I have to do fit this first one now and I've got it marked on either end so that's these can be square cuts they don't have to follow the rake of the leg so I just make a mark on the inside corner there and then I can take it out and I can mark the amount that I want to take out here too and they should be the same on both ends and what I'll do is I'll set a marking gauge to that distance and just run a gauge line along there that will give me a cut point to work too as well just run a gauge line to that distance squared line up you square that iron across across like that this is the one really technically if you were wanting to be room this at the angle from that it's up to you whether you want to I don't think I'm gonna be bothered particularly because it might make it awkward - yes you - no no would it no I wouldn't so yeah I'll cut you at the angle so those get cut now cut the notches out slide it in place slide the others up bump it into place [Music] just breaking this corner a little bit too tight really so that fits in there but I've just got such a narrow band at the end there so what I'm going to do I think I've got an extra piece I'm going to cut half an inch off this one so it'll make the board narrower but it means I'll have I'll add on that to this side and it means the end will lip onto the NP so I'm going to cut well I might cut even more I'll cut an inch off so I'm going to cut an inch off the width of this last one and one there and then I'm going to make the next board so I'll do that and then I've run my rebate on the top just as I've done before and that way I'll be I'll have a what a slightly wider board it seems wrong to put a thin skinny strip in they're more likely to distort maybe [Laughter] [Music] almost all the fitting you're gonna try dropping this in but I have a feeling I'm gonna have to drop two or three boards in together to get this one in because of the angles see oh no it's going it's fine it's very close [Music] [Music] that's the bottom fitted I'm just going to put one screw in the center of each of those boards into that end rail and maybe a couple on the side I don't know whether needs it I will put them in just for added security I guess good that's the bottom done so the only thing I've got to do now is the guard cover that goes over the Samba and the reason I put that it is because cats love Sun boxes for pooping in because we train them to pooping in trays in poop trays for cats so I want something that covers it up at night and I can use it as a drinks table on the patio I'll have my coffee on it but those outriggers go on the outside when it's done right when it's in use and then you can make your sound patties or whatever you've got to do and put them there so and you can put your toys there you've done dads and grandmom's great so next thing just screw that was in place and then I'm ready for the lattice work that goes in to this so drill driver few screws and I'm going to mark the position so I get the screws in center of each of those because I think it will look neater even know when it's coming sound probably nobody anyway will ever see that again there you go just eyeball the center of then you don't need to measure it just eyeball it it's good to practice I'm just going in the center of each of the boards and then I'm going to come quarter of an inch or so five sixteenths from the end on each one again I'm eyeballing and then when I drill the holes I'm going to be angling into those buttons because if I drill square down I'll probably be too close to the edge of them [Music] [Applause] [Music] and I'm gonna dump up the sawdusty drill dust now check the other side make sure and you can put a baton across this middle section if you feel like it needs it I don't think it needs it but you could write next phase next stage [Music] I've got all these buttons this is more than I need because I'm making the covers that go over the sandbox I've taken I've already done those three I'm going to show you what I do I just take the baton they see these are the carrier's that hold on to our piece corner with my scrub plane and do the four corners just like that and I'm gonna do one end of these so the one end it's very simple I take a rasp or you could take a plane if you want to have lost my rose blue edges and all it is is very simple just one turn around while you've got the width in the vise that set to just a little brats like that and then on this one again trying to get it even so you have an even bevel on it it's just purely to take the corners off like that and that's all it needs because this is gonna be a play box for some do the same on all four we just do one end because I'm making these long and I'm going to put the buttons on and then I'm going to cut the last one off and we can do that after it's together so that's what I do to the buttons that hold the rails the main body of the top but then I do the same to each one of those buttons I've cut them all to length I've got them all exactly the same 120 inches in my case so I do exactly the same on those but I do both ends as well just the same way I'm doing this because they've all got to be done now because it's very difficult to do it after the made because it would be very tedious to because we're gonna I'm gonna paint mine you may not be painting yours but it's quite difficult to do if you are and I'm going to be painting my pieces before the assembly as well only because it's so much easier so I'm just going to get a paint pad and take part of a coat on the surface I'm not going to give it any more than that because it's the Sun box I don't need to it's not a piece of furniture just tie these up or cut the final appearance so I'm not doing it to preserve it I'm just using for appearance she's been great from this great fun making this children those are done these again just the same I've got 12 of them to do take your scrub playing one two one two you don't need any more than that and they don't really need sanding either and then do the ends I'm going to do the ends after I've done these long strokes with the plane to nine to go now I did some extras and the reason I did some extras is because you can get splintering edges on the corners and if you do come across one that's got one of our splintery edges find something else to use it for where you can get rid of that if you've got a knot in it like this one you test it see if it's gonna break and if it's not you can use it but you don't need this whew three edges because they only get worse [Music] [Music] I'm applying a water-based color finish to my slats before I assemble them because I know I can't get the edges but I mess I'll put the coat on the hole and this is my system I've got cardboard on the edge of the rim of my box and I've got a handful of sticks that need finish on all the six phases so I've got the two ends to do and the four sides so I'm going along the edges here as you can see with a loaded pad that's all it's just a paint pad when I do the edges across as many as I want to that one go and then on the ends I'm scraping off my finish here and I'm going on the ends just like that I'm flipping in for end just like that and the end will soak up as much as I put on it so flip over and forend and do the long flat faces then it will have built up on the edges a little bit so I just pull pull and then I set aside on here but right and and then I go across each one just the same way and it will put a nice even coat on there and it's much faster and better than a brush for this particular application style so there they are they're getting that first coat I'm gonna put two coats on and then I'm going to leave them to dry so this will this water-based dries in a few minutes he's supposed to leave an hour between the coats but I will wait until it's dry and then decide for myself so not too much make sure you're not delivering too much paint to this because you wash and dry not to drop it I'm going to wipe that off onto the pad like that I'm gonna wipe it on the cardboard to get rid of the dust so that's it that's really all I'm doing I'm just sealing these coats because these are going to be screwed together not glued and this particular paint will actually work as a glue because it has a stickiness to it when it's done it works great I love it and that so once I've got these done I've got these for to the bearers to do as well nothing to it really I'm just applying the finish on every surface now I'm still using the pad you just have to watch for runs in the corners and that sort of thing just put it on and pull don't mess around with it you want a complete surface if you're going in over a double area where you are going to go over the top try and pull it in it's difficult to explain but you put it on and pull it in and lift your brush off or your pad and pull it in and just leave it then you won't hopefully get any blotchy spots but it's the sandbox remember - I have to remind myself that yeah I do the atmosphere doesn't matter too much but yeah it's neat thing of paint pad I remember when the painters that I worked with when I was a boy they hate its new stuff they hated these kind of newfangled things but we've got used to them and they do work well the only thing is a lot of them are just made from plastic but and so we have to be guarded about the throwaway disposability don't we so I'm doing that the the surfaces that I can see from this side down and then I'm going to turn it over I'll do the tops of the rails probably quick dab here and there and if you double up just go over it with the pad don't let it drip run or whatever it's a bit pernickety and sometimes I query things after I've made the decision to do something like this I wonder if it wouldn't it be much quicker and therefore may be better to paint all the surfaces before I actually did any cuts and then just go in and touch up a kiss but I don't know if that's really true this next step is to make the slotted support tables that go on the top to keep the cover over the sandbox and then have the aggregates for the support of other things but to give access to the Sun box too I've got my strips they're all cut to length all sanded painted whatever you're doing to them and now I'm just lining them up flushing them on either side mine overhang by a fraction of a millimeter but that's fine and I'm making a mark on the inside right here and right here but that's not my final position I'm checking to the top here and it's wider at this end than it is at this end which is fine because there's nothing you can do about these they're floating so they can change but what I don't want is to put my under support here and be tight up against that line I'm going to leave about a sixteenth or six a fact I'll say we were sixteenth on either side so it's narrower between those when it sits on here because shrinkage expansion things like that can happen so I'm doing the one side and then I'll do the other the other will be exactly the same there won't be any difference but it makes me feel better if I check the other side when I do that one so I'm going to do one side show you how I do that and then of course you'll be working on your own to do yours so now I'm ready to put these together [Music] I'm ready to assemble these I've got my holes drilled I've got things countersink I've got everything cut to length and I'm clumping this piece of wood in the vise about quarter of an inch above the vise jaws this is one of the buttons that goes across to support so a support rail and I have the edges of my piece of wood marked so that I know where this is going to go on on the piece so I flush it with the end of this button here so it's flush with the end and then I position it on that pencil line which I marked across several pieces all at once so I was guaranteed to be parallel once I've got that set I can take a drill driver I've got some 1 inch screws I'm going through 3/4 into there 3/8 inch material into 3/4 so I this will be perfect size for this and just drive that first screw cinch it nice and tight we don't sink the screw any further than the recess you did with the countersink once you have that take your square put it on the button slide it up the nudge it until it's square like that once that then you can set the next screw and then from there on trying to make sure this doesn't nudge it so check it again because you can still alter that I'm still square so what I do now is I take the square which has a one-inch being check that your to make a square light across and that positions your next piece so this one goes onto the line that I just made and also on to the end grain and the end line that I put on previously just like that now you can do one of two things you can continue with the square just pulling it nudging it till it's up against your square like that then take your screw and set your next screw or you can just put one screw in and wait until you've got the other button at the opposite end in but I think this is the way I would go just like that so it's not complicated dead straightforward and then you'll see I think probably why I left the added length on this button that go to the support rail because I can creep a little bit on each one of these pieces by the ring my marking or in the milling of the material I may have gone a little bit far which I didn't but you can still creep a little bit so the idea is that you can always cut that end off after you've done that's what I would do okay that's that and pick my hand that I finished in the vise this way and of course now I can't check with the square for squareness and I don't really need to because what I can do is just put the blade of the square right in between so this first one now I'm flushing and getting onto my line and of course I've made that little micro adjustment and I'm shutting this end around to get it on the line at this end drive that first screw and if I've got my distance here because I've got my pencil lines on somewhere do i if not just measure it I guess oh I don't have the pencil line on I said ID yeah and you can drive the second screw something doesn't feel right here somewhere just check this I'm gonna just check up only actual only up to a piece because I've got to be sure yeah it's good it's great so I can drive this one and then I'm just going to put the blade in between the the pieces and drive a screw between each one okay and now we're going to sort off these ends [Music] [Music] that will be the tray yeah god drunk so that's it that's the piece a little bit of let's work on the card just touch that up with a little bit of the wood finish and that's it that's what we do - nope don't hinge them don't hinge them please because children get their fingers trapped in hinged doors that's it that's all there is to it so I have put a second coat and that's all it needs of this type of finish and on this type of project it doesn't need much more or any more than that put the coat on the second coat on the mainframe main body and now I'm just putting the second coat on these slats that's all nowhere except just the top face of the slats just for appearance merely and then that's it I'm happy with the way this little project come out I'm sure my granddaughter will be happy with it too and I hope you make this if you've got kids grandkids or friends relative whatever you have it's really a very neat project to make and of course remember we're treating this as a sandbox but it could just as easily be a patio table with a compost bin in there for potting on your houseplants your garden plants stuff for your greenhouse whatever and that's always a neat thing to do as well so that's yeah it's a neat project so there's the final color it's gonna look like that and I'm happy with it it's gonna be great I'm just going to catch the edges wherever there's a little buildup on there just in case it runs although this is a very forgiving finish a lot of these waterborne finishes are really quite good we still have to know more about the end result when we wash our product our brushes out in the search and that's the downside of many aspects of modern decorating these days just worth thinking through that's all I'm saying there it is so that's it I'm just gonna slip that back onto the project I've got one more to do so enjoy yourselves everybody it's been great if this was made for an adult I think this would be a great height so what will it be 38 3 44 it's 43 inches high it would be a bit high for a potting bench but I think I just enjoyed making this and I hope you'll make one too because it is a great toy for your grandkids and these go on the outside as I've already indicated if you don't you sound in here whatever you want the kids to play and you can put water in it to room them but you can put a little bowl of water in there sand on one side a plastic bowl or something on the other side just to give them something to play with and of course you just leave the water in it'll evaporate it shouldn't cause a problem because you wouldn't have water in it all the time you wouldn't let it rot in there but it's a great project it's perfect for summer so for some summer fun time with the kids I hope you make it it's very simple not much to it but it's a nice project to make so enjoy it [Music] you

Channel: Paul Sellers

Views: 145,937

Rating: 4.7488947 out of 5

Keywords: hand tools, paul sellers, woodworking, DIY, workshop, joiner, carpenter, craftsman, crafts, furniture, joinery, sandbox, summer

Id: VogLx_uuBqU

Length: 154min 52sec (9292 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 26 2020