How to make a Plane Tote | Paul Sellers

[Music] hi everybody I've been asked several times over the past few years if I could show people how to replace the plastic handles on their plane or even the wooden ones because they've seen mine and they see mine are made out of you on this particular plane which has a very rich honey color this is a natural color it's got no stain to it and it starts out like this with a very very pale yellow with the most beautiful figured grain that you get with you and so I'm gonna talk now walk you through I'm gonna do the real handle this one sometimes call a tote but it's just a handle nothing special but it has some idiosyncrasies to getting it just right and not all of these bench planes are made the same way generally you can tweak one plane handle from another or buy a replacement handle and it will need tweaking but I'm basically I'm going to replace this handle on the jack plane and the reason I'm doing the Jack plane is it's a slightly different size and people don't always realize that actually the presentation of the handle is leaning more forward the bar that goes through the middle is it an incline of 60 degrees whereas on the bench plane on the smoothing plane like this it's at 65 degrees so it's a different different piece of equipment really on the different planes and when you offer the jack plane against the smoothing plane handle you'll see that there is a and also I'm going to walk you through how we get these angles because I've got two different types here one for a jet plane and one for a smoother the jack plane handle is slightly taller and in my case it's slightly chunkier than my smoothing plane and I actually like the chunkier size on my Jack plane because I use those smaller handle on my smoothing plane because that tweak Otoniel sat down I do things with it that most people don't do I on the full stroke I do all kinds of things with it so if you know me at all you'll know that that's what I do so I'm going to walk you through it and get you in the zone making a plane handle as of the next piece you see me working on so that's going to be it we're going to take the tools together and put everything together I'm going to show you how to lay out how to get the angle right for that difficult hole that goes right through the block of wood [Music] you're going to be customizing your plane handle to your particular plane so I'm going to try and walk you through that because I think it's important for you to know what the considerations are so take your leave a cap out take your cap by your cutting our assembly out and then remove the handle first of all by turning the screw on the top this is a threaded brass screw that and sometimes the whole stem will come out and in my case just the little nut at the top came out and then you have to kind of all of it I've got another screw at the bottom on this one there's a screw sometimes a set screw where at the bottom as there was in this and it's not on all planes it's not on all Jack planes so every plane will be slightly different so now I can take it up I'm going to put this screw back in the hole because I don't lose it and this I'm going to put on top of the threaded bar that goes in through the handle so this is my handle now if you're like me if you've got a good wooden handle as this one is I probably wouldn't get rid of it I wouldn't throw it away so I would use this first of all to establish what the angle is or you can take your plane the bar on the handle you can take a protractor with a bar on a beam on it and you can line that you can align that by sight and get the exact pitch of that bar so that when you come to layout you can lay that out onto your piece of wood and you can make the angle the exact one that's in the plane so that's the first thing so in my case mine is sixty degrees and I'm going to keep that angle but I just want to tell you that you can take a number four plane handle and put it onto a number five plane and that rod will Bend and you can still use that if you need to change main handle and you've got another wooden one from somewhere else so don't think you don't have to you don't you can't do that another way of guessing the angle is to pass a piece of rod into that hole and that way when it's passing through you'll get the angle from that so you could lay it down onto the piece of wood and you can set the angle by offering it to the bottom of the plain handle and then just sighting the edge top and bottom to get the angle it's easier to get it straight off off the plain bar in the plane so I think I would shoot for that so let's come in a little bit closer and I'll show you where we go from here once you've established which plane handle you're going to be working on it's a good idea to set the other one out of the way cuz you don't want to get confused with them I've got different blocks I've got one see this one this is a plane number four handle and it just reaches to the top if I took a number five like this one it's protruding past the top so that's why I've got these different sizes now I've left mine a good half inch 3/4 of an inch wider than actually need and the reason I've done that it might become more apparent when I start working on this because if I got the angle wrong on this when I drill the hole I can still tweak this by moving it side to side until I get exactly the angle on the bottom when I cut the the foot cut down here so that's my reasoning behind that so I've got one side planed up the other one is just rough so I don't need it to be smooth at this point so here's this is the the plane handle this is my pattern what I'm going to do first of all is I'm going to set my angle which I already have to that exact line that is the centerline for the hole that's going to go through and all I have to do is make sure that when this is set on I've got enough room around the handle to I want the top of the hole to come on the top extreme of the piece of wood and on the bottom I don't it to come through the side so there's my angle just work it out according to what you see and a good sharp pencil to get you all the way across in one pass like that and that's my angle that's the angle I want what I'm going to do is I'm going to square this line down across the top with the square and then across the bottom now I don't know if you can see but I'll try and show you if I flush this at the bottom you can see that my wood is considerably thicker than I need for the actual handle but by the time I've cut all the waste away there won't be very much wood left for me to have to work down in size and the benefit of that is if my hole goes through here and it isn't perfectly parallel I can still micro adjust my material to make sure the hole is centered when I finished so that's my angle that's my position top and bottom all I've got to do now is find the dead center here the dead center here make some crosshairs and those are going to be the two points that I start to bore this hole and I'm going to be boring a quarter-inch hole hopefully all the way through without I'll have to bore from both sides because I don't have a drill bit that's long enough to go all the way through but it will be probably more accurate if I go from both sides at least I'll stand a chance of meeting in the middle somewhere I don't know what kind of bit brace electric drill you might want to use for this is it's going to be up to you but I can't I can't do both because I've just got one shot at this so I'm just transferring I don't need to do that I want to transfer my onto this side just in case you can see it that was my phone pinging sorry switch that off well we're doing this I thought that screech this off but there we go alright so there is my angle on both sides now I've got to decide about getting this hole through what I'm gonna do is I'm just going to find the middle of my piece of wood and use a marking gauge just I put the pin in turn it round to see how close I am but then I still use the same reference face to make sure I'm in the middle I'm working from that same face so that make sure I'm parallel as I go in so there I've got my crosshairs and this is where I'm gonna mark it on here in case you can see it I'm going to take your bread off or a or a square or or whatever we call it and I'm just going to put a little start right on the crosshairs just so my drill doesn't slip out and this is where I see what I was saying about how do you how do you bore this because if you go in the vise here then your hand is going to catch but I'm going to angle it upwards like this I'm going to put a quarter inch bit in and I'm just going to go for it now you can go you can alternate if you wanted to I think it's not a bad idea to start off with a drill bit that's quarter of an inch just initially and start that that bit like this so going square to start like I'm doing and then you can go in and you can angle like this so I'm citing this now to my line and I'm citing it for the center okay I'm going to change size a bit I'm going to a small a bit now now I've got that centered and I'm going with a small a bit because I can widen it with that bit that I just had that quarter inch bit so here I'm going in once I've got the angle I keep citing keep checking myself good and now I'm going with the quarter inch bit and that will pull itself in that the angle now I think that's going off-center so I'm going to correct it [Music] I felt like he was coming more towards outside and it would only be a fraction of an inch now I've got my quarter inch bit and I go inside and now it's just a steady plot and it seems to be pulling itself in which is really what I wanted I'm gonna keep going as long as I can from this side and really doesn't really matter as long as it's not too far off Center I'm going to pull it out now just to clear out the shavings at least I think otherwise they'll clog in there I won't be able to ever get each other now yeah just about long enough to go all the way through I believe this should be interesting I'm going to back out again to clear the shavings because they are hard to extract if you get too many shavings in there I'm gonna work out it's not easy this you it's quite tough but it's going just fine I'm getting ready for the breakthrough because I'm half an inch from the surface now no it is let's see how he did okay I'm pretty good this way I'm probably about oh maybe an eighth of an inch off center you know along the length but you can see I'm quite a lot away from the center line that I originally planned to go to so I've got to make some adjustment here now okay let me just walk you through this because you can see that I am let me put a rod through here you'll see that I am quite the way off from my line here can you see that now it doesn't matter I didn't even need that line it was just a guide for me to to work to so what I'm gonna do is younger to lie my piece of wood down take a that rod and I'm going to just use that to get the center from here I'm gonna bring that line up to the top corner just like that and that's giving them my new position for my hole so now I've got this mark here and I've got my start point down here which didn't change so now I strike a line from point to point and this is my new angle so I'm going to erase the old angle which is no longer any use I'm going to square the line all the way across to the opposite side as I did before just for a visual more than anything so that I can get rid of the one line and re-establish the new one so that comes out and now there is my new angle so - what happens now because this is not complicated but this now becomes the angle for me to use as a center line on my template which you get a PDF of this even if it doesn't correspond to your plan exactly you can still use this I'm using the center line from here down to the bottom just like that and then I can trace around here and that gives me the exact angle that I want for the handle and then you see what happens down at the bottom I now have a different plane here so that line now can go all the way across and I do all I simply done is established that new angle for the bottom of the sole all I have to do now is cut that down and once I cut that down let me square the line across down here I've reestablished the position and I'm ready to start working with that as my datum point so I did then off the camera I just squared that line across here and that goes to a point down here and there is my reference line so that's the sole on the side of my plane hangar this is basically where that's going to go now there it is and I've got plenty of room on the top of it for everything that I want so I can now use that centerline once more line this up mark this on this side if I want to which I do sharp pencil forward I don't need to mark both sides but again it's just to give a visual on what we're doing there it is that says laid out and ready to start making some cuts the first cut I'm going to make is going to be this here because I want that to be exact and I want it to be established because everything is referenced from that afterwards so now I've got this cut to do what I'm going to do I'm going to start it vertically here like this I'm going to see my turn assault is going to work for it I believe it will it will [Music] Uli's such a dense wood it's a completely unforgiving wood yeah I've got that started across the top I'm going to saw this way because I've got a strong rip on my tenon saw which will work great pull the plate give it drop it into that sock there no now all I got to do is align the saw so no one cut [Music] [Music] so check that off and then I'm going to drop it in the vise this way I'm gonna plane this now with a smoothing plane to get exactly to the line I want this to be straight and true sometimes when you start working in you you wish you started in oak it would be so much easier all I want is a straight final cut with that plane to get this very true I'm more than happy with that and there it is so I've got my line I'm still showing that base line on the other side of the foot but now I'm not square anymore before it was there no it's there but I'm happy I've got everything in the right place and I'm good to start doing some more work on this I bought a quarter inch hole through here and at some point I've got to remove the bulk of this waste wood because then I have to drill the nine seven sixteenths hole down there now if you're using a brace and bit you don't have the snail to start that hole because there's nothing to pull it in so what we're going to do is we will plug that hole with a piece of wood and then we'll drill in beyond that piece of wood down to the depth of nine sixteen that gives us that next so what we have to do now is decide what we want to do do want to do more shaping do we want to keep it this shape where it's parallel top to bottom which of course it's not now so we can recolor lusts by taking the measurement from this point they're moving that down to this point striking the line through then cutting that so that it is parallel use your bounce or use your table saw use whatever you want probably would not use a table saw for such a task but I definitely would use a bandsaw something like that and that means that we can then clamp this in the vise and we can actually cut the bulk of this waste off whether we use a handsaw the bandsaw a coping saw or whatever we can cut the bulk of that waste off and we'd still be able to clamp this in the vise for the bulk of the shaving the shaping that we've got to do so that's what we'll look at now it's grading it [Music] let's go ahead and cut this parlor and get out of the way you is very hard complain but when it planes and you get that perfect pitches it works so nicely so now when I come to do the shaping it'll clump parallel device and that's the most important thing because otherwise it's awkward shaped all the way through but we do have a couple of tricks up our sleeve to help us work through this to get this shaping done that's the big trick next what you're gonna do are you going to handle cut this are you gonna put some straight lines in like this you can cut the bulk of the waste off whoops brought my pencil take some bulk of the waste out of the way really I'm gonna come down this edge here so I'm going to cut down there so that means I've got a radius in here and I don't know what that radius is so let's take a bit of a look see if we can find out what that radius is does it conform to a radius like this that's not quite tight enough because if it does like there I have a thirteen sixteenth radius let me go and see if a bigger one will do actually a 7/8 radius works perfectly so I'm going to bore through here I think that's what my plan might be more through from there if I do that it means that I have taken out the book of the internal corner as well which would be very handy if I could do that I'm just gonna put a centre line I'm using this template because it will give me a centre line like that so I've got crosshairs at least on one side to work too I draw these lines in I've got a start point for a 7/8 bit so I can drill through that there and that will give me that internal corner so I'll drill that then I'll saw into that and then I'll saw into that and that will give me exactly what I need so if I square that across onto the other side the edge of the circle there there and there oh I already got it marked and it's also very very close so all I need now is the center point where those two crosshairs go and I transfer it over to this side and I can even take that center point from this base line see if I can get this right if I get this right it'll be great so all I'm doing is some is transferring the center point to this opposite side of the wood there it is I can use this I can ball from both sides with a 7/8 bit onto that center line then we should meet somewhere in the middle and if we don't it won't make much difference but that's where I've got to everything is nice so I can bore that hole and then saw straight line saw straight line and I have much of my internal stuff done on the next part I think I would take a rule again and mark this onto the surface and Mark some straight lines that come on the on the top of those arcs so I did a line down this part here and a line down this part here and that will give me so I can make a cut up to here and then cut up to there and then is this another radius inside here let's take a look see if we can bore another hole and well would you look at that it's going to work that one is a one-inch radius so I can put a one-inch hole in there I'm going to connect the lines to going across in both directions then that will give me a center point and I can do exactly what I did before by transferring that point to the opposite side I can now have the crosshairs I need to blow that one inch hole so I've got to drill a one-inch hole through here from this side and then over to the other side regardless of what I've done there now I'm going to take a square line from the center point so from the crosshair and I'm going to transfer it to the opposite side down this side onto this face so all I need now is the distance from the top to the center line that's exactly one and a half inches on mine it won't be the same on yours one and a half inches so now I've got my crosshair from this side so I can bore a one-inch hole in there and that will take care of my radii for both the top and bottom so I think that's going to be pretty interesting I'll bring you in close so you can see what I have what I need now are the bit sizes that I said I needed so I need a one inch and 7/8 give this a shot now you can drill a hole through and that's what I would do I would take a drill driver and drill maybe something a little bit under 1/8 of an inch halfway through from this side because because this wood is quite brittle and if I just bought through the conical point on the snail of the auger bit can split that wood and if it doesn't split it it can weaken it so I'm going to go through from the side in both of those folds I'm going to go halfway through square perpendicular to the would turn around and come from the opposite side and hopefully I've got this right FLT counter little bit more make a difference [Music] [Music] so there we have it not easy that was quite a workout well I like workouts good so I can make my cuts now that's gonna be interesting Chris you can use a power dry but mostly that was the choice of wood not using cheerio [Music] not to salt into the art because I think it will be quite difficult to remove if you do go deeply into ever so slightly but I want to keep it parallel and I certainly don't want to cut into it [Laughter] might be tempting to go in there and maybe break that off but I definitely wouldn't do that because it can tear those inside fibers where you don't want to tear [Laughter] so I got pretty happy with that really you know in fact I'm very happy with it so I've got a couple more to do just like that on this other hole where I show I already showed you that marking another line on the underside of the top of the handle I need to make and then so I'm going to cut this one I'm going to cut this one and I'm going to cut that one just to same make sure make sure it's really well supported at this point because you know across the handle when the handles in place is the weakest point on these plans I'm pressing the block against the plates just to make sure I don't break through so we're getting that I'm still leaving this on here because that's what I want to clamp it in the vise with so mmm nice eh just the heel of the handle now I think I could go no bit uncomfortable yeah but soon it will be customized to my hand great more shaping now and this is very simple part really what we're going to do is we've got the profile of the handle marked onto that piece of wood now I happen to have a small rasp and you may not have one if you do I would recommend using it because you can get right in in those coals and get it down to your rim of the little pole if you need to reside it so that's all I'm doing is taking that midsection that I couldn't get with the brace okay forget the orbital to go there but what do you do if you don't have that well you can go in with a gouge could work a gouge would work very nicely if you have a small profile of a gouge like this wide you can go in from both and you can chisel what and gouge out the high spots that's another alternative oh you can take a dowel of wood and wrap some paper around it like a a sixty grit or a hundred grit or 150 grit sandpaper with a three-quarter inch radius on the other two the dowel and just use that exactly the same way as a rasp would work and it will work and it will do it very rapidly I'm not saying it with workers as well or as quickly as a well-made rust but it will definitely definitely do it so that's what we've got to do next so get your a spell so I'm going to go all the way around this now I'm looking for my lines and I can see there's a big hollow in this part and I have a bigger rasp for this car so you can't really get the spoke shaven on the bulk of this so I'm going with my large rust I'm going in with the round side I'm looking for my wines to get it down sit up in Sao Paulo and watch the edges the precise parts to your us because they tend to be quite aggressive if you're not careful and they will because we're going to go all the way around this now to get those high spots and to get the shape we want one of the neat things about this now if I take this it should drop on here look at this already it fits and the seedings right which means the angle is right so I'm already happy about that that's great so now I've got to do the shaping and that's what we're working on next so we have some more to do because the holes are not centered in the piece of wood they may be centered in one part but they're not centered in another so we're going to take a look at that now to see what we should do to get this parallel to the hole okay what we're going to do this time I'm going to set this aside I'm not finished with my shaping I was just moving forward take a finger guide like this with your finger like that that's the center of my piece of wood I'm going to put this onto here just for a minute and onto this face here then I'm going to go to the bottom hole and I'm going to just eyeball the center of that hole make a line across and on to this edge that's going to give me the center line that I want to work to now you can use a marking gauge if you want to that's fine but what we want to do now is we want to be parallel to this and we want to decide how thick do we want our handle well on the original handle and I measured 7/8 of an inch exactly so what I would do is I would want to make them out from here 7/16 which is half of that 7/8 so make a mark and then go on the opposite side and do 7/16 again so that's that one now I can pull this line just like this and I just go to this edge because it may not be that the top edge it can be different to down here so I'm marking the fore edge and then I'm turning this around and I'm coming from here now if you would is parallel which I believe mine is you can just run that line again just using your finger just the same way and you're going to end up with a 7/8 inch thick handle to do if you do it this way ok now we go on the top and we measure again from that line 7/16 on each side of that centerline now I can see can you see now it's quite different it's not quite so centered as the other end was the other end was quite centered but this end is not so this is where I strayed with my boring little from the centre we're not a little quite a bit but not it's not really that massive but it looks bad on here it looks like a lot bring the marks onto the front and back edge because these lines can be your guide lines down so if I bring this line now along here and along there so so those lines go on the inside I can I can bring that line around onto this face inside that Cove just like that and now I can join these lines up and that will give me a parallel surface on the outside of my handle so I come in here now with the ruler and make it a liar strong the line just like that and if I bring the camera in a minute to see you'll see that there is quite a bit of discrepancy I'm doing the same on this back edge right into that alcove there and that's just giving me the line for me to run my ruler to so this now it doesn't bend this so I'm going to find I have a thin scraper somewhere this one will work and I just bend my scraper to that contour like that to make a line that gets me the thickness of my piece nope I've got to plane that down it's not complicated it's not hard I've left plenty of meat on the top here so I can play in a cross grain and I can go into and outside this side but let me show you how I do this because I think it is important that you follow me as we do this so I'll just bring the camera in then walk around this piece or spin it around or whatever so you can see a little bit more clearly what I've done and you can see how my lines are out of parallel but when I finish they won't they won't be bad so can you see how the line is in our at this point but when I guess up here it's wider so it's not very much it looks a lot more than it is I think it's probably a sixteenth out of power on both sides flip on to the end and you'll see how it's much more uneven but when we're finished it's going to be perfectly parallel it's going to be great and now you'll probably understand why we left this so full so that we could cut that off and we can rip that off now we could just rip that with a handsaw if we wanted to him I may do one side with a handsaw and the other side with a play we'll take a look see what we feel so now I'm ready to rip down the sides of the hunt well I'm going to just rip it with the hands first I thought I would plane or use a rasp on one side but I think this is going to be much better so just work to my line so this you is really very different than almost any other wood it's not like more conventional materials that were used to working with so it's a little bit different but once I'm in and I think I'm going to be fine this soy superb for ripping this is great it's not an expensive one in fact it's probably one of the cheapest new saws you can buy it's definitely my favorite so get your angle I've got square across the parallel top now so now I'm sewing down the side we're getting thinner look into those lines check the other side yet I'm on track obviously you that really grabs the wood a little bit like some pinecones yeah so it's not complicated it's so off to remark the the shape on it again after I'm going across the chaulk the sound is very different so what I did and I ripped it so I ripped off the two sides by hand I planned on planing one side which I started I thought no this is quicker just to rip it off so I ripped to the lines that I had and I've repents all this back on so I know what I'm cutting to and now it's just a question of shaping these inside surfaces and to do that I'm just going to go with a rasp and start the Father shaping this like she's taken to my liars and it doesn't take very much did a good Rasmus and if you've got one of these shinto rasps these weren't fine to use the soft size they define a toothed side just to start with and get used to that because the other side is really very very aggressive and I think it's too too aggressive I've got my half round rasp the small wand and I may have said and maybe not wrap some some tape around the three-quarter inch dowel something like 100 grit would work well get into the corner and take out any area that has a step in it and I'm already down to my contour I'm happy with what I've got I've got my contour here a little bit more yet to do in here and once you've got that down once you've got it close you can refine that even further with a scraper just with a thin scraper cabinet scraping like this and you can take off more high spots with this and even take out the marks left with the rasp if you want to do that it's a bit soon to be doing that so maybe that's not the best thing to do at this stage but now I've got this working and it does again I'll just show you just drop this on here and you've got your profile and the angles right we know that so we're going to shape these inside round overs and X that's going to be a complete round and what we'll do at the point where this meets the four-part I think I'm going to round this it'll be rounded like that but it's when we're done and the back of course is going to be a half round it's just a straightforward half round there the top of the handle will be but when we get to that will will work I'm not going to show you what we do there so in the vise between the two points nice and parallel we can start rasping these rounds I'm going to use the Shinto one first just to take the corners off I'm using the coarse side it sounds like I'm going quite heavy with this but I'm really not heavy at all it's just the coarseness of the rust once you've got this 45 done flick over and go to the fan side and take the hard corner that's feeling good what you can do next is you can take a thin scraper and you can work this like this on that and it will work beautifully to give you almost a mirror finish and minimize the amount of sanding you've got to do so this goes remarkably fast doing this round over and remember whoops this bit is going to be cut off soon so we're going to be taking them off so we don't have to spend a lot of time on that upper area just a little bit [Music] at a certain point we stopped using the abrasive to fine tune areas once we feel that it feels right in our hands we can go in and take off some of those hard areas to level and take our undulation and so on just a little piece of 150 to start with and then work the high spots down to get rid of any uneven contour really this feels so nice so we do that I've got quite a bit more now I've got to cut this top part off but I want to make sure I've got everything the bulk of it rounded because I want the benefit of the Vice so I've got more contour to do I'll probably spend another half hour on this and then because there's only so much you can do you can keep going forever well this one fits me nicely now so I'm just gonna keep battling this until I feel contented with the shaping and I'm ready to cut this top bit up because we've got more boring bits to do yet [Music] I've got so little left to do on this now I've got to re-establish the arc on the top ready to cut that and I've got to cut the length of the foot to the little ball shake that's in this plane and it's going to be rounded front and back and I want to get that just right so I'm going to mark it Tim yeah directly off the piece but also I remember I still have the original handle somewhere so I can take that and put it on the underside like that and I can draw around it I can trace around it just check yeah so that's perfect so it fits well and I've already done the heel on mine and that's overhanging at the back by a little bit more than that one is so I'm going to make a micro adjustment here I think I'd rather mine overhang that little bit and really this is literally the half moon that goes in there so I can take a template like this and find the exact 7/8 or whatever it was and place it on the handle and then just trace around it from that mark that I just made and that's a complete half circle the semicircle so I can cut that very quickly and simply with a rasp drop it on the plane yeah hmm I can come down to more I think I can come down near so I keep going just fits exactly but what I want to do also before I take it all the way down I think and then make sure that seems right because that could I couldn't just adjust it slightly so drop it in again like that so I've got one half of it done I've got the other half to do and it's looking great so next I've got to drill that hole through there I want to get that bang on so great so I can use this one probably and I can get the sense the hole that exists in that one mark the center of this one so that's what I'll do next [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] honor for the park on the top of the handle now and because everything is rounded I have to eyeball this a little bit so two things I want to do I've got my arc gun but I also want the center line right here because that should be the center of the hole when I come to war the 7/16 hole into the end to take the the threaded nut that goes in there oh this is it I got to cut this next that's gonna be interesting nice okay I think I'm just gonna solve a straight line across first I'm thinking on my feet here because I've done each one of these differently okay we go [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] we've got to plug this hole so that we can bore use the auger bit to pull itself into that hole so I'm going to plug that hole next I've got to plug the hole so I just got a piece of wood any scrap wood will work probably something with a bit of guts to it then I got a piece that's roughly quarter of an inch square actually it's a little off quarter square it so quarter of an inch squared and the prologue its length as well you don't it take ring and take the corners off first four corners the hard corners and then offer it to the plane to the hole in the plane and I'm going to use this scrap that I took off because that way I won't wallow that hole out just squeeze it and turn it around in there until you get a little bit of bruising and then you can see the size of the hole you're working to and then we just pare down to that bruise line like that all the way around so this will fit into the hole and it's got to be tight in the ball otherwise your auger will just push it in and what we'll do after we'll just drill it out again when we're done fairly simple procedure not much different than surgery really what you don't slip now spin it into the hole and I think that's going to go I've already gone in quarter oh no more than a quarter of an inch and I can drive that into that probably and then drive it back yeah so that's gonna work and I'll just use a ball or something to drive it back out and that will now get driven into the end of that term handle perfect again another perfection piece okay now you can glue it in there if you want to if it makes you feel more secure you can glue it just a little bit of glue and leave it for a couple of minutes that will help and that's what I'm going to do because I don't want it slipping I want it to be able to pull my bit into the into the wood so I'm ready to gel this 7/16 hole this is going in here it feels actually feels a little bit loose but I'm gonna wing it I think the last bit is going to be just exactly what I want so we just put a little bit of glue on spread it around with our fingers we don't need a lot but we are gonna drill it out it's not gonna make any difference we just drill each out anyway press it down into the hole until it's flush if you can get it flush there we go and I can put that straight in the vise now and just take my all and go right in the center of that just eyeball it for Center give it a little start and I hope I picked the right wood it feels a bit funky so I want the the hole that I'm gonna bore into here is going to be as perpendicular I can get to the arched top so it's not hard just difficult that's all mmm okay how to hold it that's the big question I think I'm just gonna hold it that way and that means I can get a full swing on my brace so I'm going to check now remember I'm doing a 7/16 hole but for you guys it might be a slightly more it might be slightly less that's the problem so make sure you check yourself with some calipers a vernier will do fine hmm Oh exactly 7/16 will work perfectly great do I have a 7/16 bit here so find a 7/16 bit and drill to a depth of I would suggest you drill to the depth that your nut is because I think that's where it sees this is half an inch exactly and I think I know for a fact that it went a little bit deeper than that but I'm going to go to that I'm going to go to 7/16 now that knots in 16 set 9/16 that 9/16 will be on the low side of this re on the high side of this recess so you just have to gauge it yourself I can't really do that for you but that will work so remember a revolution on some of these bits it could be that it's exactly a sixteenth for every revolution they all vary so check yourself I doubt that's deep enough you know another three or four reps to go there was always to turn if you go too deep it doesn't matter who's you're gonna put a washer in there anyway whew I could not get that better it's perfect the hole size is perfect too so then you just simply go with that drill driver bit your head in there this is they've got a small bit in at the moment and then go with the quarter inch bit that you used and that will take care of everything for you [Music] okay I need to tidy up don't I just now I'm losing bits exciting exciting now let's drop this on see what we got so yeah I've got to put a washer in there yeah but if the thread is on my side of the hole that's good and it's pulling the handle down nicely whoo this is nice there it is there look how beautiful that looks so I've got a little bit of finessing to make it seat on the oh no I know it actually seats perfectly so all I've got to do is drill that one hole now very nice and I've got a little bit of shaping to do which I'll dive in and out of with you there we have it is my plane handles almost what we're going to do next if you want to see the exact position of the hole right here because that's critical to get the distance between this internal corner of here and there we've got to get it dead right so what I'm doing is eyeballing the center line across to the edge and then making a mark on the edge there and then I drop my new handle onto the stem and make sure it's seated which it is and actually it's fairly good as far as a backward and forward thrust but you got to remember that your plane is going to be always on the thrust on the push forward so I've shunted that forward and I'm marking this internal section right in here with my pencil on that pencil line that went across so I'm gonna check myself just to make sure at least I think I'm there let it see and then push forward and I've gone too far past so I want to come back about 1/32 so that's the center and then I can take the square and square that line across and actually it's close enough on that center line there that I originally marked so I'm happy with that and then the center in here and I've got the position I want so I can now make a little dimple in there with my all just to start the bit and then I'm gonna drill the hole that matches the size of the screw so my screw may be different to yours it may be a different size so let's make sure we check so I think I'm ready to drill my hole through here I've just put a stem of oak in the vise and I'm thinking that I can hand hold this because I can't really get a clump on it so I've just got a the right size bit and hopefully problem so to press it firm on the surface I'll drill through and that went perfectly so I don't have any tear-out and that's the important thing probably if you think about it it would be better to drill that hole before you do all that work because if it didn't work you'd have done all that work and it wouldn't be repairable let's see how this goes oh he's right on top of that hole it's exactly on top so I'm going to put this thread onto the stem give it a couple of turns to make sure I'm located correctly and then I'm gonna put a set screw in to see how close I am this is where you wish you had a little dumpy screwdriver it's going it's going to find so set that screw where it needs to be oh it lines up perfectly on on both sides which I'm more than happy about so that's nice and tight and this one is nice and tight and that's my handle fitted perfectly to the base and the only part I've got to do now is this round on the top right here at the end of the handle which is literally just rounding this something like that eyeball rounding that and then feathering this in to create a nice dome part like I did on my other plane here she's now got dings in it but I remember how nicely it felt and it still just feels nice and this one is going to feel just the same in a very short term it's nice very nice I'm really happy with this and I know you will be happy when you do yours so there we go a little bit more another step and I'll be done [Music] I am about ready to put my shellac on this playing handle using shellac because shellac is amazingly wonderful for playing hundreds and all kinds of to animals this is one I've already done this one this is also you so when I put the finish on I'm putting it on with the top and the front knob on the playing fix to it I don't see the point in having to handle it to make it happen so that's what I'm doing it's up to you what you do but it works fine to three coves maybe and that will be it I won't have to do anything to it except steel wallet with four op steel wool and some furniture polish buffing on yet the nipping out of the surface nipping is there was little tiny surface fibers that stick up and feel a bit rough so you get the living out with the steel wool and that is basically it for this plane this is going to be a wonderful look at these beautiful beautiful handle and I'm dead chuffed I'm very happy with it great so I'll show you how to put the shellac on it's not complicated to brush shall I come to finish like a hand planed we simply apply the finish with a brush and now I'm gonna hate brush and it's it's really one of the best brushes that I've ever used for applying shellac and even other finishes so I'm going on the awkward bits for this cutting in around the edge just like there's so much if you go on the Japan in which is that black stuff they painted it with don't make any difference really makes it look even shinier so pull the long strokes once you've cut in pull you long strokes and you don't have to go with the grain in this case and just apply a liberal well up liberal just a nice even coat and keep moving from a wet edge to a wet edge that means when you're putting the finish on don't do down here and then on top of that you move from wet to wet that's the first coat are pretty and it and that's all you need to do with sure you don't have to do anything else with it I'm going on the front knob now walk around that base and work up to the top in this case just like that you can go onto the brass if you want to you could always take it off later if you want to - but it's fine guys how fast is that you can't get much faster than note for the planar finish that's one coat leave it for maybe an hour give it a light sanding with someone 240 grit sandpaper then come in and apply another coat and see how it looks I just I haven't applied the thin coat I've just gone with a heavy coat of shellac I'm going to leave it now and come back to it in an hour's time put another coat on it leave your brush you'd have to do much to it it'll soften up when you put it back in the finish so that's the nice thing about shellac is no matter how hard it gets no matter how long you leave it if you need to get the brush back in good Audis is dip it into denatured alcohol it'll dissolve the finish and you're back on track it's wonderful I just reconsidered I did say that you could sand it with two twelve one to twenty grit but this really doesn't need it so I'm just going to go in with that let's cut because it's as smooth as I can get anyway so this is it this is the last coat because as you as you'll see that it's really very full already so if I start with this and just pull that coat up to the top but to the top don't dilly-dally here because remember shellac dissolves itself so when you put five coats of shellac on it actually only has one coat by the time you've got to the top again it's all dissolved and softened into one gelatinous coat so that means that when you start doing your pulls like I just did you don't dilly dye over it you get on with it and like here I go on and pull on Paul no hanging around this is not this is not for slackers this is getting the getting the coat on then moving on see that just pull pull and in and you're done very important don't don't start procrastinating and thinking about the ballgame chit-chatting with you makes this has got to be done and dusted so there we are I've got that done I've just got this top section to do pull pull then pull and leave it don't fuss with it leave it alone leave it alone like I'm pushing with it now but that's it that is my plane done I have to do anything else to it now that it's finished I can just leave it till tomorrow probably and then go with some furniture work some steel wool and it will feel as smooth as silk and it will stay that way for years years and years and years there's been a great project I loved it I loved every minute of it I've got one very last thing that I have to do with the handle now and I've got some for steel war for zero steel wool and some furniture polish just as soft paste wax and all I do is both the Handy with the face glass all over wherever my hands touch and worry about my hands don't touch that's all I do these go over this and that it just takes out the any any bubble rough surface anything like that and it feels so lovely with my hands being so delicate and that's basically all I do is then is buff until till it feels like an right and looks up right it does look very nice though I must say the face wax really does make it look very good and it feels so good [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] you

Channel: Paul Sellers

Views: 101,417

Rating: 4.9405479 out of 5

Keywords: hand tools, paul sellers, woodworking, DIY, workshop, joiner, carpenter, craftsman, crafts, furniture, joinery, Plane Tote, Plane Handle, Plane, Handle, Yew

Id: t4-WN14P3_k

Length: 93min 19sec (5599 seconds)

Published: Thu Jul 23 2020