How to add volume in the crown without any visible layering

hi Sam via here I want to share with you away really nice way that you can go in and create some volume let's say that you have a client that comes in Karen she comes in she says keep my link but I want some volume on the top what would you do in most cases we rely on texturizing what I've been working with a lot lately is diamonds a diamond section up on the top and crown area reason being I've discovered the diamonds get that hair to actually tilt or move back and away from the face which is actually really cool but what I want to do is share with you how do you use that diamond to go in and create a sense of volume in terms of bringing some volume into it without really over layering everything so it's just a manner just going after the diamond so how do we set up the diamond you want to go in you want to find your front to back so we find front to back we're gonna do that on both sides so we find in front to back and notice she's got a natural left side part don't concern yourself so much with that okay once I've got that you find where that line of the middle part intersects with the front to the back place your finger there find that hairline there find the middle point there's the middle point from there I'm going to draw a diagonal II back just to about that parietal Ridge where the comb comes off of the head then I'm going to come through into the opposite side the front area on the opposite side and the reason I'm going to do that and not do what it might habitually do which is work in a circle and go in the back area your thought process is in the front area so I want you to continue to think about that front area so I pop over the opposite side I've got my pointer for reference of where I go where does that diagonal line go back to you separate your front to back once you have that fun to back separate it now we're gonna go through and we're gonna look and see where do we come off use your comb if you want where the comb comes off the head that's where I'm gonna draw from that point back to this point so now you can see I've got the front of what is looking like a diamond shape now when you take a look at diamonds diamonds a girl's best friend but what size of diamonds well the diamond is going to be based in terms of the density so for example if I have a lot of hair my the Diamonds gonna be bigger maybe 3/4 carats if I have fine hair I'm gonna make that maybe a half a carat a one carat diamond smaller diamond why Sam Andrew and I really believe that right now we're tilting under cuts and under upside-down meaning that the Greve shortness that you're gonna start to see everybody's talking about long layers what we want to do is we want to just share with you a way that you can create volume but also at the same time get that hair to have maybe some long layers or short layers on top so you're really tipping things down upside down where you get to do your shortest on the top rather than underneath take over the comb come to the crown area place your fingers on top of it I recommend three fingers once you're there slide your index finger underneath where it touches the comb that's where I'm going to draw back to the center back okay and now I come back over on the opposite side and now it's just a matter of connecting these dots so I just connect those two dots okay now once I've got that karyn if you want to look up to the ceiling okay now you can see I've got that diamond or if we look at from the top view you can see I've got a diamond once you got your diamond you have to look and take a look at it and see if it's balanced so I'm taking a look at it from a top view okay I can see I did really well great now next thing we need to do that gives you the base of the diamond what I'm gonna recommend that you do is you cut your diamond with a zigzag section by using the zigzag section you're gonna be able to diffuse what it is that you're going to cut I don't want to release any of this but I don't want her right now I don't want her hair over layered great way to introduce a client to your your knowledge and setting up the comfort ability of the client so I come back through now you're gonna comb this back see that diagonal line when you see that diagonal line you can see that from the top view when you see that diagonal line I want you to comb back over that now watch I'm gonna pick up some of this hair here so I'm gonna pick some of that up it's gonna go into my Dan decks finger now I'm gonna come back through and I'm just gonna zigzag right over where that line was and then slice where that line was and now I've been able to zigzag my diamond now the reason I'm zigzagging my diamond once again I want it diffused watch again just a real cool way to do things in a controlled way not so much in sketching it out watch again there's a diagonal line at the back right side of the diamond index finger comes in lays flat comb back to you pick up some of that hair that was underneath the line of the diamond bring the comb the white teeth not the fine teeth over that line now evenly just move your comb up and down up and down over that line okay now slice where that line was where you believe it to us don't worry about being so perfect your texturizing it now you can start to see I still have a diamond shape but now it's getting SIG's AG once again you do things in a different way and I guarantee you you're going to get clients involved in what you're doing I really think it's time for us to take the industry back think say and do things in a different way here we go I saw that line notice my index finger picked up below that line I come back through I move up and down try to keep the consistency all the way around in terms of your moving up and down so your zigzag stays the same okay now I'm checking it as I go looking really good control of that all the way through see this really saves you from over texturizing it we could easily over texturize things now I come to the front I comb there's that line I see it comb my index finger picked up below that I come to that Isak zag up and down up and down up and down till I get to the point of the diamond now come through and slice approximately where you're at once again relax my friends relax now I have a diamond shape so before you cut I want you to go through and look around check your density I'm checking my density over the ear checking my density over the year I seem to have more hair over here so I'm coming to this side and I'm just going to drop out and notice I just come through when you drop out sometimes they might be a little bit weak on one side just go in take the point of the comb that we made for the sectioning part use that as your zig zag and just go in a zig zag one area that you might need to take up and add more hair over the ear now we're ready to cut before we cut I want you to isolate the underneath so it's important that we isolate the underneath we want to isolate the underneath so we need to pick this back up we can cut it what do you mean Sam take your dry cutting clips okay and just isolate them once again that elastic will hold anything come back through and see you can see I can cut this and drop it recut it if I want take a look at it without going in and picking up some hair that I don't now I'm gonna come through and I'm going to cut this now what I don't want to do guys is I don't want to cut this into a cap so I'm not going to cut it diagonal because you can see if I cut that diagonal this is going to be too short here what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna lift this straight up and I'm gonna cut it square so it's shorter in the front leading to more length towards the back why I want just one a proportional length to fall in this area that I have so the first thing I'm going to do is come through I'm gonna pick up dry cutting shear we want to go through and we want to release our length first so let's go through that's how you let the comb isolate that while I went to grab my tool now think about where do you want to cut it look how Sam uses the comb so I'm using a black home on light hair scene about what length do I want so I tell myself if I cut you here where are you gonna fall nice that's right around that occipital bone we're gonna get some roundness to that okay I'm gonna slide just above that because I'm gonna go through and you'll see how I'm going to texturize that I want you to come through I'm gonna chunk off the length so I just chunked that off I know I want to get it off so why go through and cut something really even when we cut something very straight and clean it's going to take you twice as long to resolve it now I'm just gonna Reese often just the edge just the edge look at me softly and now look at the shear stay stable and we move stable and we move okay now I'm gonna pick up a new shear that we've made for you so the seven inch is going to go down and I'm going to now pick up our invisablend okay and invisablend shear watch I can release this and come back to that and invisablend shear this is quite different from the blending shear I really felt that we needed something that does give you the texture gives you the texture that you want on an edge rather than working so hard on that so what we made is we made a very interesting shear called an invisablend Y invisablend you get invisible layers you can't tell where they start or where they end great when you're cutting blonde hair because in blonde hair you can see all the cutting lines why does this work Sam well if you look at that you can see that with this it's curved it curves in this direction now this blade here the blunt blade is the dullest part of the invisablend this is the sharpest point why what we did is we made a blade pretend that the comb is the hair okay if I place the comb and I close what happens is this blade because it are curved this way and they're curved this way what they're doing is they're actually pushing the hair so this hair moves this direction as you close on it here's the result you get so pretend this is the tooth of one section I'm gonna have you hold that for me my dear don't drop that okay okay here's a section so imagine you got a blending shear and go poom like this so you got I'm gonna you're looking at a magnifying glass that's what it does it blocks it off what the invisablend does is it makes it it pushes it because it pushes the hair it cuts it in a curved motion so that each little tooth does that to the hair so you get that section then the next one you get that section that's tooth next tooth that section so you're getting small little scalps rather than square individual little spaces with the blending shear great shear watch what it does okay so let's go back and now look how easy I can come through and I can reap ick up what I've just cut so we've gone through we cut our diamond but we went in we chunked we came back in we point cut to soften the line and now watch how I'm gonna be able to go in okay and watch how the shear works I'm gonna go through I'm gonna close now that's about you if you watch really closely you can see how that hair will get push watch it gets pushed and now I can slide out with these when you take a big six section like this with the blending shear you're not able to slide out the only way you're able to slide out with the blending shears if you're slightly taking small sections look at the big section I've got here and I come in and I just slide out and I slide out slide out slide out and you can't even tell where it is that I'm cutting so I want you to think about almost like a razor defect but absolutely what a shear does to it it concept blunt but because this is moving the hair because of the shape of the teeth you're getting small scallop small scallop small scallop really incredible in terms of when you go through and you want to texturize now watch when I collapse that all I want is it visually blend I can't want I don't want you to tell where the lair starts and where it is okay so when I comb that down it looks like she didn't have any hair cut at all but when we tickle and we move or we touch it watch how frothy that top clown area will be let's just comb it through okay and look how we can't really tell where that diamond started and where it ends and invisablend shear you're going to love it it's an arsenal that you're going to need within your arsenal tools now watch when I touch that can you see him now how much volume she's getting by simply using a diamond zigzag section size of the carrot based upon the density elevating it remember the angle you cut determines where the length is where the degree of shortness is so you be creative with the angle you choose go through chunk it out P point cut come back in your magical invisible blend shear and you're on your way to making your clients happy once again Sam via here with some simple little tricks that we bring to you to help grow your business behind the chair but most important in today's world it's about finding out what are the problems and you as a hairdresser behind the chair having us oceans thanks for joining

Channel: Sam Villa Hair Tutorials

Views: 4,169,507

Rating: 4.7152476 out of 5

Keywords: sam villa, hair, hair stylist, salon, hair salon, How-to (Website Category), Haircut, Beauty, Style, Hair (Award-Winning Work), Hairdresser (Profession), section hair, add volume to hair, more volume in the crown, layering hair, cutting layers into hair, how to layer hair, mature hairstyle, Layering

Id: AwysSy4scqA

Length: 12min 32sec (752 seconds)

Published: Mon May 18 2015