Hand Scraping - How I do it.

hey guys want to talk about about hand scraping today so you're looking at it my granite surface plate and these are the tools that I use for hand scraping or at least most of the tools so these are the scrapers that I that I use for pretty much everything and this is a sandwich I believe 20 millimeter wide and this is a 30 millimeter so I think the most common one is the 25 and that's the one that I don't have but this little guy it's it's really nice for scraping dovetails or any kind of detail where you need to get in somewhere tight this one that the 30 I don't use that too much if you want to do hand flaking or something it's pretty good to see where I've been beating on it then these ones here I've shown these on practical machinist but all they are is got a Delrin handle these are just copper pipe fittings piece of oak dowel rod and then this is some I think 3/4 conduit emt just smashed it down and I used some of these binding screws to hold the hold the blade in so my thinking was that I could just make different styles of blades and then change them out but in reality I've pretty much just leave them set up all the time so this one is I don't know what radius but pretty pretty large radius it's also the longest one so that's for roughing and you can really lean on that one and then this one basically exactly the same except it's a little bit shorter and it has a smaller radius so this will be good to get you down to like I don't know 20 points or something like that if you want to go any finer you got to have a smaller radius and probably also a narrower blade and this is my straightedge that's made by Bush cast-iron 36 inches long and he is an inch and a half wide so this one I like because it is parallel so I can I can set it up on top of a dovetail way or whatever and indicate something on the other side or you know it's a little more versatile than the Camelback style and the power scrapers I haven't really gotten to use very much I just got I just bought this by ex scraper or I guess most Americans pronounce it by X but it's a it's a Swiss sir German company so I would assume that they would pronounce it be ax anyway this is the old blue style so I think from what I've read that that would date it to sometime in the pre 1975 ish it's got a Bosch motor and it's been really well taken care of and these are the blades for the Vioxx scraper I've got a nice selection of long and short blades and then this thing here is a wrench scraper also made in Germany and the old CD is very often in the States I actually bought this one from Canada came up on eBay and it was all taken apart and it's really in bad shape I got to put back together and it is functioning but the motor is just absolutely shot if you don't put it back together just right the rotor actually rubs on the on the stator inside the motor housing and it'll overheat and all kinds of bad things and then the gear train is okay but the cam there's like a swashplate cam in there that actually runs the strokes the scraper and that thing's all worn out too so and plus it's a fixed speed and a fixed stroke so it's not that versatile and I'll probably end up selling it but I just bought it because it was interesting and I wanted to see what it was all about it doesn't seem to be nearly as nice as the Phi X scrapers and these are the layout different layout dyes that I use so that's K note blue and can't read that one anymore but it used to say read this stuff here is a homebrew and this is what most of the scrapers that I know the professional scrapers that I know use some variety of this and what this is basically just this pigment powder so you can actually buy it from any like brick supply house if you have one they use it for dyeing mortar and dyeing concrete for decorative purposes but it works really well as a layout medium and I just take the powder and put it into a can and then I mix it with oil any kind of oil I think I used sa e-40 just regular machine oil spindle you would work way lube would probably work fine and I just mix it to it tell it's kind of a paste I don't know sort of like toothpaste and that works out really well that's probably what we're going to use for scraping today the candle so the camera is water-based and that's the good part about it because your hands are going to be clean so you know I've been messing around with that black stuff in my hands are all stained so it's easy to clean up that's the good thing about Canada but the problem with it being water-based is it has all kinds of side effects you know you don't get anything for nothing and the problem I have with it is that number one it dries out in the bottle so you have to keep thinning it out and I just did it by adding water to it and you know it actually get to where it won't come out the nozzle and you can't spread it doesn't want to cooperate or when you're spreading it out like with a rag it'll tack up really bad and it'll take yeah it just won't lay out smoothly so you got to fin it out and then the other problem too is that I think because it's water-based is that it likes to transfer from one color to the other so like if you have the blue on your straight edge around your granite plate and you're using the red as like a highlighter on whatever part your ear scraping it won't take very long before your blue starts to look purple and it'll just keep getting worse and worse until you have to wipe off everything on your master and start over with with fresh blue and this homemade stuff doesn't do that I don't know why the candle does that but it's really a pain in the butt and the other problem too is because it's water-based you absolutely cannot leave it on a piece of cast iron because it'll it will cause discoloration and if you leave it long enough it will cause it to rust so at the end of the day you have to make sure you clean the candle off of your straight edge or whatever you're using because it'll just it'll just rust it instantly this stuff over here obviously is oil-based and you don't have that problem so the last thing you need is a stone or in this case a selection of stones so I don't even know what these stones are now that's a combination stone got a coarse side and a fine side and you really just need to find side there's no coarse stoning involved in in scraping and then this bottle here right now it has wd-40 in it which is fine most of kerosene based mineral spirits works well too you just need something to clean up the layout medium and to kind of lubricate your stone so you don't get it loaded up too bad and then if you're scraping dovetails these knife-edge stones are really handy you can really reach into a sharp corner okay I'm just going to lay out some black on my plate and we'll take a take a rub on this surface plate that I'm missing or this angle plate that I'm messing with looks like I was scraping on that once before but I have no idea where it's at so will will kind of start over and by the way if you're if you're squeamish about discoloring your surface plate don't use the don't use the oil-based pigment that I use it'll stain it pretty good and just like die chem well well there's nothing you can do about it eventually the sunlight will bleach all the you know the UV rays would bleach out all the pigment but it takes a while and it doesn't matter to me I mean surface plates here to be used but I was doing some scraping at a customer's shop one time and I put some dye can lay out blue on their surface plate and they just had an absolute fed about it and the pink surface plate had a nice big permanent blue spot on it and they didn't think much of that so you know that be careful about things like that all right so the other problem too with this plaque sink is that it's really hard to tell how stick gets on you know with the can out or whatever you can kind of translucent you can see the plate through the die but with this black stuff you really can't so the only way to tell if you have enough or too much is to take a rub and kind of interpret the results alright put some red on the plate okay that's what we want we wanted to be tinted red but you still want to be able to see through the red it's not not a paint job it's just going to be a highlight all right here's the first print we've taken and you can see there must be a big high spot here and kind of a big high spot here and a big couple little small high spots there so looks like it's way out who knows I thing I'll say is that it's kind of hard to do a transfer on a angle plate because this end is so much heavier than that end so it wants to bear much more on the heavier end so you kind of have to be careful how you interpret the transfer of the you know from the plate all right change of plans I had to move over to the welding bench it's just too shaky over there my problem over here is the lighting isn't as good okay it's probably good forget first round take another another print and take a closer look so this is my technique it's the way I like to do it the biggest thing I see like videos of people scraping is you know they're out here with their hands they're just kind of scraping like this that's fine but you really want to make some progress you got a lien on it and really take a big bite so let's take another rub and see what we have okay this is the second print and you can see it's already starting to come in here and up here so let's just be a low spot in this area so the idea we're scraping is we're not tasting the black spots we're chasing the regions that have black color in them and we want to scrape the entire region that has black color in it down so that these areas that don't have the black color will start to come in so one when you start point scraping you know finish screens and that's when you can chase for taste the black marks right now we're scraping regions so and also this isn't a good thing to start with like a beginner project because these webs right here any time you have to start on an edge with the scraper makes it really challenging so one thing you can do to kind of cheat when you're roughing is just make your rough passes more parallel to the features that are interrupting the surface you know you don't have to scrape exactly 45 degrees if you want a nice pretty finish you're going to add to scrape at 45 degrees but remember we're roughing we don't care so here we go [Music] it's a lot easier to scrape off of a feature like that than it is to scrape on to it so you can just work one side from this direction and then put the part 180 degrees and work the other side but I don't think a lot to do that here you there we go that's a workout [Music] okay time for growth so you can see we're just gradually working in on this low spot so make it underpass the other way and see where we end up [Music] you okay the rub okay so you can see now we're starting to get color on the whole surface or you know some color around the whole surface so what I'm going to do now is kind of switch patterns a little bit and we're going to keep roughing but we're just going to hit the high spot I'm not going to do these big regions so I don't like finish we'll call it semi finishing you you [Music] okay I did one more of those sort of semi roughing passes and this is where we've come looking pretty good a little spot I've got is right here where I'm a little concerned that those points aren't as dense but I'm still getting some color in there so I'm going to do another maybe one or two those semi roughing passes and then we'll be ready to do some finishing so I've done three of those sort of semi finishing passes and this is the result I'm going to call this the end of the roughing so the reason I know that it's ready to go to finishing is that the distribution is consistent and it's covering the entire surface consistently so it's time to time to switch gears into finish scraping and that's one of the biggest things I see as far as like posts on practical machinist or or other videos on YouTube is that people don't people don't get to this point before they switch to the finish scraping they start chasing the points or the blue or the black marks before before the part is really ready and you'll get there but it'll take a long time much faster much more efficient if you can get the roughing done first so here we go I'll switch to my shorter scraper it's got the smaller radius on the on the end and we're going to go in to finish scraping and this is the way that I do it I don't know if it's the right way but it's the way I do it so what I do is short strokes like this across the part and I'm trying to space them and I'm not being very consistent right now but the idea is to space them basically one mark apart and if you come to a place where there is no black spot you just skip that one so and like see here there's a spot where there's there's no color so I'll just skip that one I like to lift out on the end of the stroke so now we're gonna that's our individual scrape marks now we're going to do individual lines so we're going to leave a space between the finish passes so [Music] you okay that's it go take it rough okay so now we just do the same thing the other way you this is after two well basically one finished pass each direction and I got a little too much black on my plate but it's starting to come in not the reason I can tell there's too much black you can see these little little streak marks and that usually indicates that you put too much too much of the way out black on one one surface or the other but it's okay I can still can still scrape with it just the way it is so we're making other sort of passes and see see if it comes in you [Music] so you can see now it's starting to starting to look more like a scraped surface so I'll go take another rub and then probably finish it up in the morning this is a the result after I think six passes now doing the finished scraping and now we're getting a pretty good distribution of the points but still got some big kind of big spots so I'm going to take my small handheld scraper and try to break those up a little bit [Music] you okay so I did a fine finish pass I went ahead and did it both directions so am i cleaning this up and take another rub see where we're at all right I think we're going to call that good enough we're well within the 20 25 points per square inch range and yeah that's not good enough for a Chinese angle plate so I'll just clean this off real quick and you see what the what the finished product looks like okay that's it calling it down

Channel: Watch Wes Work

Views: 75,896

Rating: 4.9243183 out of 5

Keywords: scraping, rebuilding, machine tools, mill, lathe, straight edge, angle plate, hand scraping, Biax, Renz, Canode, scraper, sandvik

Id: xHT-uzKQM6U

Length: 25min 31sec (1531 seconds)

Published: Mon May 15 2017