Moore Pattern Hand Scraping

hello everyone welcome to my shop I'm Robin today we're going to talk about more pattern scraping this is the style of scraping where the scrape marks are like a crescent moon-shaped and as seen in flaking a lot of flaking on machine tools for oil retention is that crescent shape and it's also a style of scraping that's used for all of the actual scraping not just for twelve Achatz so one of the things I want to point out right off the bat is I am NOT a scraping authority or expert I've done a lot of scraping self-taught I was inspired by foundations of mechanical accuracy to go purchase three challenge eighteen inch square surface plates and do the three plate method and that's what I did and that has proved to be a very valuable skill throughout my career in being able to scrape on machinery building a lot of various things I would scrape often but when I do it's typically a major project every machine rebuilder or whatever so a lot of people have said there's just not any clear information on what the more scrape technique is I am showing you the technique that I learned I actually went to more talk to the scraper and [Music] so how they did it I'm going to be showing you that there are even variations within people that work at more on the various nuances so this is just a quick video strictly on the more pattern I do throw in a few things about my thoughts on scraper blades and technique and application of type of person blue and red LED or equivalent so let's get to it okay so here is scraper loot surface I'm going to try to show you the mechanism of what is going on here this the Crescent is a roll from start a little bit sitting on this edge of the scraper roll to somewhere in the middle of the scraper and then back again through the strip so it's a it's a so my thoughts on how more pattern is done and how I've learned to do it is I always keep this knuckle roughly on this edge of the scraper because the down pressure or if you're a palm guy if you have your palm the edge your palm on this edge basically you want the down pressure to induce a roll this way so inherently as you push down push like this through the stroke you're going to get a roll like this the backhand back here is controlling the the twist and a little bit of preload so I've got a little just a tiny bit of torque this direction to counteract this so that it comes back and Haren Lee if you don't have that little bit of torque you're going to press and lift off and it's just going to stay straight you need something to return you so the the finessing of getting the crescents the way you want them is the timing of the roll relative to the push length how far you pushing how far you're rolling I have a tendency to end up with too long of a tails on this edge but it doesn't matter because the next pass cuts them off but and this is one of these things really the more you get warmed up and the more you're doing it the better you get at it and I'm cold from having not scraped for quite awhile but yeah you're really paying attention to what's going along with the stroke so enough babble here we go we're going to go so you can see the pressure for my hand inherently is giving me this or this rollover it's not a it's not sliding it's not doing anything it's a straight screw screw stroke but you're doing it with determination and ideally you want the fat part of your moon to cover the tails of the previouse and like I said my tails are too long I need to control that better so by paying attention that I'm not rolling back as far making constant Corrections I'm just letting this pressure do that okay so that's the that's the whole thing is this pressure so it's just a Down stroke yes it's it's I'm making it look easier than it is when you start but once you get the hang of it you can't stop it's very difficult to straight scrape this straight scrape so now I'm going to try hitting these these areas here I'm intentionally doing this with this huge scraper so that you can see what's going on a little easier so after a while you can get your your aim to where my name is not real good right here but you get your you get on a roll and you can see where you've been hitting and you just drive around and hit your your spots [Music] [Music] see this very nice reflective surface here that I just you just saw me do with this scraper blade is because of the lapped finish that I have on here really smooth doesn't have to be mirror but it needs to be really really smooth finish and with I do my lap lay in this direction also not this way so you have the best chance of hitting a really smooth edge that is what translates into this being that smooth because when this lays flat close to flat very shallow angle this surface finish on on the bottom edge here is being directly translated think of this as a form tool with with topography in it is going to transfer directly onto this so having a dead flat in that direction is important dead smooth is important to get a really nice finish on your screaming also just relative to scraping grind I do the same typical negative 5 degrees on this but it's very important when you're grinding with your whatever method you use I just use a a diamond face wheel on my bald or grinder but you can use a hand file like a 600 800 grit hand file can give you a very nice cutting edge but you don't necessarily want a lap finish on this edge having a little bit of tooth in the grind on this end makes the scraper bite a little easier if you get if you lap this you'll find the scraper almost has a little bit more of a tendency to skate so when you're grinding these to test for knowing that you've actually got a dead sharp scraper is just just catch like this when you when you push down and try to push this direction with the scraper it's right off the grinder it should catch your fingernail like instantaneously and actually bite and stay put with almost no pressure so that's when you know you've got a sharp edge if it skates at all it's not really dead sharp and that dead sharpness is what allows you to do good work with a scraper if you're if you have to add a bunch of extra effort and push to get the thing to cut you're just it's used at a severe disadvantage a thing to note about a very wide this is an inch and a quarter wide scraper and using a very very very very large radius almost straight and this is a very powerful tool for roughing because this keeps you out of trouble I see people roughing with regular scraper even a bi axe you can dig holes very quickly very difficult to dig a hole with this when you use it at a very low angle and make sure you're crossing your your strokes as far as crossing in the direction that you're scraping you know going either direction because this will bridge over holes and tend to keep you out of trouble you notice I flagged this thing off got rid of all that previous scraping in very quickly and you could even see it taking off the the high points very effectively so one of my real strong suggestions is have a big very large radius scraper to do your roughing tear into it long straight scrubs strokes does as you saw in here I stroke you know almost cleaned off off the part the only part I didn't do is where it was hard to start on the edge and just flip the part around to do that so this tool for roughing will save you a lot of time a lot of agony of digging holes and look you know spotting over and over again get a big big wide scraper like this with a very shallow radius use it for roughing purposes until you start to get some overall bearing there's my setup I use four lapping all my tools my CBN tools my carbide tools this is set at a particular angle this is just a some kind of woodworking sharpening gizmo that has this slow speed you'll see here my transpose which works with overlapping is you'll notice in the last scene that this was rotating in this direction and for working on this side we're just lapping the flat faces of those that's actually more advantageous but on normal tooling and if I was going to rest a scraper blade on here to actually lap it I put a reversal switch on this such that I can get this together correction so very important to always be grinding down into the edge on carbide or anything like that it's going to have more edge shipping if you grind off the edge meaning you're coming up and the wheel is dragging off the edge you always want to be going down into it carbide is much stronger in compression than tension and it is a brittle fracture mechanism of cutting so you're going to get less edge chipping better edge quality bike grinding into or lapping into the edge if I was going to lap a blade on here I would just hold it uphill to my five degrees and and you know rub it on here this is set at my normal of seven degrees clearance that I use for my carbide and my CBN lapping so back here is the big inch and a quarter wide anderson brother scraper which is great for roughing this Sandvik very nice creeper I like it all these have been thinned to get a little more spring to them even the Anderson milled in the back to get some more flex in it more flex is to a point is good in a scraper even this Anderson's been relieved okay and these are handy being able to have different regen just pop them in and out these are my favourites for detail work when you're doing a little dovetail or something make a scraper that actually fits in that realm okay this one has just been straight but soldered on here on the end there's no bevel on this one so this is nice for you know medium sized dovetails but then for smaller stuff having a nice little detail scraper like this this is a file that's been thinned down this is only about man I'd say 40,000 stick here at the tip but this has a bevel right here where you see the difference in this face over this face location this is a very shallow a 15 degree 20 degree bevel where this is a lap joint for the silver solder because this but but soldered would be would be too weak so this is a very very handy this then this here lets you get right down into the corners and and do your you're scraping without a bunch of fussing of this handling i I look I don't have any problem with these regular handles and a lot of people like the big the big things on the end but I just never nothing wrong with that I just always been used to using the file handles it and kind of like them so don't be afraid to make a decent scraper that is good for small work and you notice mirror finish on here on the faces and then the radius to suit what you're doing and to small over radius is much worse than too big to small can get you in her in trouble in a hurry where you're doing very deep pockets very quickly so I would suggest if you're going to air air on your ring being too big work with it do you say wow this radius is just impossible to work with because if it's too large then trim it down but then work your way down til you find that happiest place where where the the action is just right this is my preferred method of doing application of red LED or your contrast color whatever this is just some scrap PT I had I turned some daubers has some Harbor Freight floor matting underneath this this is natural chamois real the real deal not synthetic that's been pulled very tight I've got a wire that's wrapped around here in a bead that's pulling the chamois down into the groove tightly so I snug that and then I pull the chamois mad tight get it all twist the wire up really hard and then I hot glue over top of it so that the hot glue gets a grab on the chamois and surrounds the wire otherwise the sham you'll end up scooting right out from underneath it so the evaporative process just described in Connolly is this you've got a dry cakey well dried out oil red LED Crayola whatever your favorite compound is but it's it's it's dry it's there it won't stick one here at all and the beauty of that is is to get just the right amount and the evaporative part comes from using something like mineral spirits that evaporate relatively quickly and I wet this just enough until I can pick up a little bit on here I come over here I use this you can see I'm getting some some action here and the secret is not to get this too too wet so I'm looking at this and saying okay what kind of color I'm getting on there I'm just getting a faint haze so I need I need a little bit more a little bit more a couple more drips of of mineral spirits till I get some more a paste going on here I can Dom it on like this which works well this is a very very matte look that looking the the the lights make it look like it's shinier than it is but then you can also do this you can swipe and what you'll find is you wait as this evaporates this will get tighter and tighter until you get to where you can just pull off just the kind of film that you want this is evaporating I can actually feel the this tightening up and you can pull this off until you get just what you want no excess nothing that's going to give you a smudge you don't need to wipe with your hands because the chamois works I think as good or better than your hands for removing any particles still a little wet I'm still leaving trails there so you got to wait another did I just fire this up cold turkey once you get it kind of tuned in with how wet you want it you can maintain that and now as this is drying this is getting tighter and tighter and it's getting where I can kind of smear off the excess it kind of starts the cake on the the dauber and you can get just the film you're after now once I know that I've got this started I won't need to be doing this much much massaging each time okay now that I've got this kind of tuned in I might just put a drip on there swirl this around and not pick up any more and this will be good for for quite a while so this is the evaporative process you're actually basically putting a wet film on and as the solvent evaporates you're leaving this residue behind I'm just massaging and massaging here because it's still drying out but you can see you can get a nice a nice uniform film on there and this as this keeps drying this will get to the point where it starts to pull it all off and obviously that's you don't want to go that far so that's what gives you control of exactly how deep of a and how thick of a film you put on so that's the example with the red equivalent now all this is is several tubes of dye come high spot blue I put them in here I put a kimwipe on top of it and then put several layers of of bounty towels on top and then I have a metal weight that I sit in here that's just presses it basically what you're trying to do is you're trying to suck all the oil out of this which is done here and then I actually bake it a little bit to get it a little bit pace to your consistency so this is pretty tight this is this is pretty sticky but I did picks them up right there so this is a little bit looser than my orange so I will not go directly on the plate with that I'll come here I'll massage that around and see what I've got okay and actually right the way it is is pretty nice okay that quick I just put a nice uniform layer of blue on there that is has all the particles so you can see see these particles here this is where the chamois has cleaned it off every once in a while I'll take a towel and I'll clean out the chamois get get the loose particles but that is as good or better than wiping it with your hand to make sure your particles on there so making up a really nice daughter like this is huge time-saver I had these that I've made in wedge style to get into a dovetail where it's covered with the chamois on both sides this really really works nice it's a nice uniform that's a light coating there you can make it thicker you just add same thing you still use the if you want a little more you can wet the dauber with the little mineral spirits so that it gets a little looser and gets a thicker film and adjust that way but it's very fast I'm not going to be scraping for a while I wrap these with the shipping saran wrap stuff and just to make them somewhat airtight so they don't dry out throw and dry and that works it works really well and just cut the toughest 300 a fall from ready to fire up again and these containers are just handy size to keep it dry they keep it from evaporating any more than it is and they also form that lid section where you can work your dauber without adding color to get it to get to the consistency that you want so this is an example of more pattern relatively fine I would consider this you know instrument grade scraping as far as number of points and Sheen and a contact area yes a lot of this surface is generated with the precision ground flat stone but that's not a bad thing this very polished bearing area of significant area and a polished plateau like that is going to stay still and perform well as a an instrument surface much better than just a normal scraping so I mean there's pros and cons of all different styles I'm not saying this is you know the be all end all but precision ground flat stones definitely help to have your your screen come out a little bit nicer okay this is what I consider insanity scraping this is roughly yeah five and a half inches by 20 quarters or 70 millimeters by 140 okay and this is extremely extremely extremely small more pattern but this was more or less I was just seeing what was possible obviously not practical for you know day-to-day things but for something that you want is a you know a statement piece this is I took a picture of this and sent it to Tom Lipton saying hey you don't know me from the man in the moon but this is an example of my scraping and I'd be happy to scrape your your level base for you if you'd like so that's just an example of what can be done this is I actually find this relaxing but these are very very fine scrapes this is well over a hundred points per inch and it can be argued yeah what's the point bigger you know less bigger ones or a lot more smaller ones but yeah just an exercise in what can be accomplished and so just what do you see that to see how far down you go and then here's an example of where get your muscles tweaked into that very short stroke and still scraping for bearing here this isn't just for looks this isn't flaking this was actually scrape for bearing and yeah fun I hope that helps them you get a little better idea of more pattern scraping relative to the the actual technique involved the role aspect of it like I said I'm not an authority on it I know that what I'm doing there is very close to what a lot of the more scrapers use their technique I have a friend that visits more relatively frequently and is also a screen scraping fan and he's talked to several people there and they all have their little differences in how they accomplish it so this what I showed is just a suggestion and something maybe to get you on the right track and it's not the be-all end-all absolutely the only way to do it and a lot of the techniques or things that I described may be controversial and I'm not proposing that they are right they're just what I use what I find to work well for me and you know like it don't use it yeah hey carry on so yeah like I said I hope I hope this has inspired you to at least get out and scrape takes it takes a while this isn't something you're just gonna learn in 15 minutes or half an hour or you know you have to put some time in and some diligence and don't give up and yeah once once it gets a little bit easier it's I find it very relaxing it's like scraping and lapping or two of those things that are almost like therapy I just almost rather do that than go on vacation it's something just soothing and neat about those those things so yeah I know I messed up but okay we're going to close off here and hope you enjoyed it and I'll be back

Channel: ROBRENZ

Views: 93,629

Rating: 4.9477296 out of 5

Keywords: scraping, hand scraping, Moore pattern, crescent, crescent scraping, scraping technique, rebuilding

Id: EECJA2ZUVjg

Length: 29min 45sec (1785 seconds)

Published: Sun Sep 30 2018