DIY SURFACE PLATE LAPPING PART 1 (audio fixed)

hello everyone welcome to my shop I'm Robin and today we're starting on the surface plate lapping but I'm doing on this three foot by four foot master pink granite plate I got this because it was worn out too far and the real a purse didn't want to touch it they started on I think and said they gave up one and said it was too far going so I got it for free and you've seen other videos when we go in the stand and now it's time to actually lap the plate you're following along one of my learning curve I have not done this before I've seen lots of plates being left I understand the principles but haven't actually done it so you're following along on my learning curve and I'm going to show you the good and the bad the ugly currently this video is just going to cover roughing and probably won't even get done the roughing but we're going to see a lot of things on how I'm measuring using a precision level I have a gauge that I've made the Ren's a meter which will be a separate video which is a repeat reading gauge and straightness gauge that's self calibrating possibly a new instrument I still kind of doubt it but I don't think it's I've never seen one so self calibrating for straightness inherently and measures to extremely low levels with electronic gauging in it so not using that now so I'm just letting you know that's coming up and when it's mentioned when you have a hunch of what it was the this 10 by 30 plate is what I'm using I've had this picking around the shop forever I'm using this for my roughing initially so that's what you'll be seeing me using in this and it has advantages in the long 30 inch length is good for bridging and averaging and getting rid of gup-d dues but it's narrow width be nicer if this was a little wider but I think we'll live with that and I have other plates I'll be using I'm going to be using the term charge a lot in here and in lapping that means when the particles have been pressed into the lap where they are stuck and they're embedded and they're in embedded enough that when you turn it over and use it as a as a abrasive tool they're in there strong enough that they stay in and and work and not just fall out and roll around charge is as opposed to free abrasive where the particles are loose and tumble and that is a legitimate lapping action there's two different categories they're charged and free abrasive and you'll see in here we're going to start off with trying to do just a pure charge and I find that's not all that important and I'm actually getting better cutting action by still charging it meaning I'm rolling the the particles in pressing them in with a roller but leaving some of the free abrasives on there the sections where I'm using the level you see me actually losing level and moving it and positioning it I have cut out all the wait time for the level to settle these bubbles take time to actually settle in and get to establish position I have trimmed all that that time out of there so don't think when you see me doing these and some of those are sped up for very fast six eight eight times speed ten times speed because I don't want the waste of time there but when you see these you'll see that the time that I'm I've cut the time out when the bubble settling so remember that when you're actually doing these when that when you move that level you have to give it a good thirty Seconds minutes sometimes for the bubble to actually creep into position I don't know how many videos this is going to take thank you maybe three four and if you are using these videos as an actual learning tool on how to do it there are places where I'm explaining aspects of laughing and geometry and changing things I would suggest not fast-forwarding if you're actually trying to learn the content that I have in here I tried to make everything I have in here a value with the minimum of battling so if you're if you're out for that gym fast-forward because you're a miss some some details so let's get on with it here's our embedding roller this is a hardened a two-piece with a spherical double row spiracle ball bearing so this can flex so I can put this on put my body pressure on here and physically crush embed the diamond particles into the cast iron lap so this is so that it gets a good charge and we don't have any free abrasive everything is charged into the plate I'm going to start to rough this plate since I'm pretty sure that's severely out of shape because that's why I've got the plate because the real appers wouldn't wouldn't work on it I'm starting with 325 400 which is relatively coarse and I'm going to use this and so we're going to charge this plate right now I try to use some all this is experimentation on the fly here I'm going to try using some alcohol as just a fluid medium and a fantail brush as you see right here and purpose or my thinking on this is that since these bristles are basically almost like a single layer instead of a regular brush where the particles will tend to carry and hold the abrasive particles this is just going to distribute them I'm going to be able to switch this around and try to get somewhat of an even coat of the diamond on there with the alcohol before I start rolling so I'm going to flip this up so we can see the whole thing and give it a whirl this thing off I've alcohol this off real well and I've got some that I've been in here cleaned off with another plate when I was just experimenting with us to see how of course it was and I'm just saying with this what this does I'll kind of rinse this out try to get this diamond out onto the plate here I'm just going to use this brush to swirl the diamond around see if this will give me some even coating of of diamond you don't think I have enough but here's some more in here this is still clinging to the plastic and I'm going to open up the pouch and get a little more on here don't want to overdo it just want to get a gentle dusting on here that will give us a good charge good uniform charger over the over the whole thing I'm just trying to get Lowell a little bit on here C's in my head if it's you have to be getting in there I'll see what that does add some alcohol here - flute things and we're gonna just try to smear this around you can hear the diamond scratching scratchy sound there the diamond - pull it around basically trying to get a nice reasonably uniform layer on here that we can then roll in bearing our directions and the alcohol beauty of that is that it'll just evaporate and leave them at residue so now we're going to wait for a roller off and I'm just going to store it [Music] you so I have my 50 millionth best test sitting on a block that has three carbide feet and the silicon nitride ball is on here for for a gauge point and I'm just showing you that here we've got what is relatively straight so we we see that there's that's you know the plate that's gonna be crazy for out I've already taken a couple passes on here with the long 10 by 30 plate that I just happen to have laying around been been kicking it around in the in the corners for years and finally came to be useful but now I'm gonna come over here to where I know I've got an issue right here I can see this band I thought it was just a rust band but it's rusty because that's where the water laid in it when it was outside all the time so this is the same zero we had from before yeah a little bigger so this is out here you can see we're yeah that's where it's really bad so we're just going to have to whack this down until that goes away you can actually see this as you're lapping this this is shiny still shiny from the where and this rough surface that's been roughed with the 325 400 grit diamond powder is kind of matte and it's not super crazy course but it's it's not a not as not a shiny finish here from this grazing angle you can see this big subtle low spot here and then the deep one that we were looking at there the color change where it's just not being abraded by the diamond powder this thing out each time to charge clean this off with some alcohol keep in mind here I have no experience actual experience in lapping surface plate other than watching it and watching people do it and using a little bit of know-how of general lapping knowledge so I'm not saying that like a you know don't have a clue what I'm doing here I'm just saying don't take this as there are people that do this for a living or gonna scoff and you know say come on guys a nitwit and which is fine and probably true but just just a warning to to realize that what I'm doing may not be an optimum I guarantee you I'm going to get this plate done it just might not be the most Orthodox methods or you know the best practices but other than I mean we've seen plenty of videos on doing it and it's pretty much pretty much fun it boiled down to just good general lapping techniques and understanding of understand how these a bracelet behave so now we're trying to roll what we'll charge in here you the outside of this roller it's all coated in diamond and I'm not disturbing that not wiping it off just let it sit on there when I try to leave that one spread that back out when I try to leave that one and just see how that behaves with just a trifle of free braces in it the more free braces there are that are not embedded into the plate acting like a bonded grinding wheel the more we're going to get on the plate because you're going to get tumbling action as opposed to just the cutting action of a particle that's embedded and rigidly held in the in the in the plate so this should sound pretty Christian with fresh starting hands and I think the kick click run down and play here yes [Applause] [Music] we're removing material one technique as you use this and you skate off the ends in the middle preferentially since when this comes off here this isn't working this still is sitting on this side this isn't working this is your preferentially going to wear this plate to be concave as a know lapping upper plate it's going to get concave lower plates going to get convex just the nature of gravity overhang you're getting more pressure over this edge because center of gravity of this is moving towards the end if I come all the way over I've got the full weight of it balanced here almost no weight here so that is just a given in lapping upper part is going to cave bottom parts going to get convex to counteract that you can do this right now you've got your cutting action this is a little side action this is getting 0 surface blades here vacuuming up here when you guys spin the plate and that's what they're doing they're working the outside edges get men to wear down some also that's actually working pretty good right there you know what it's been too fast you don't want to get up where it's Rex is going up even a penny you can build up hydrodynamic film there we're up here okay now I start to get sticky because I'm getting too much residue here and I need to clean off it also take a look at what's going on here by the hinging of this now this is with the assumption that the plate is level it is relatively flat so you can see I'm not I'm not pivoting out here I'm here but again I'm getting closer to the Hindi beam under you see more action with this look at the end so once I got here I see the plate is behaving I'll stop this action got to sit down there too much residue so as what with all laughing this is a this is being aware of all these factors that have an effect on how the left where's how the part where's the cutting action of the racism in charge you have that reasoning from all the nice red see wet lapping is not the greatest I mean if you're doing lots of a lot of material removal and stuff but final lapping there is some moisture absorber absorption in granite and if you're out for the nitty-gritty you need to be allowed to drive now there's nothing saying I couldn't laugh draw or wet until I got to but in my mind all it's going to do is increase the hydrodynamic film and the float of the of the lap so why bother you know maybe just straight straight line strokes again now that now the CR are hinging on this is not too bad I'm not trying to not an overhang much like this gun right here is right where we need a lot of material enable just like getting breathing there's nothing saying that to take this whole head down but my sister from holes in this end all says those rather than risk doing a step just progressively work more and more on this end so they didn't have to remove as much granite because there's a hole for somebody I'm just pointing out how the technique just like screeches where you progressively walked out to pass the taking more for more distance you know the first cut second cut dirt or vice versa to set some people Methodist [Music] that's a pickup from excess stuff go sit for then it'll hip in and not to have maybe a little pickup there it smears weather that's somewhat from the lanolin based plate cleaner a little bit of the oily residue that tends to pick up like the habit what hopefully when this is a video there'll be people knowledgeable people that might chime in and and you know fill in the details of the real wise I'm just hypothesizing here from may or may not be valid I'm holding my hands bare hands on the top of this cast-iron expanding the top and bowing this I really should be wearing gloves or having insulation on there where I'm grabbing it even though I didn't see any of the laughing guys do that technically has between you go watch word if you're doing stuff with Optical flats you definitely have to watch for your hand on top of a partner laughing he's going to temporarily deform it we might look do it right while you're laughing and then to cool off [Music] [Music] it went back to a different shape now I can actually see better in this view from here see that our patch is down there that's that's actually getting smaller pretty quick so I'm gonna keep going here so I don't want to break out the Renza meter during the rough process here because I need to really clean the plate before I do that so I want something that I can do some rough checks just to see what my overall curvature is the the plate can be perfectly zero repeat reading be a perfect sphere of very large radius but be extremely concave or convex so I need some hint of what I'm doing in that regard to know how to lap meaning do I overhang the edges in my concave and I need to let that lap hang out more so that starts to round the other direction so quick and dirty method is to use my precision level 2/10 per 10 inches per division and but it's only a six inch square level and I don't want to have to do a gazillion steps across here so my Renza meter spacing is five point five so two of those is 11 and 11 works out to work out perfectly on the 3 foot by 4 foot I can go 33 inches is 3 moves on the shore side 44 inches is 4 moves on the other side so it cuts down I can quickly see what's going on which is what I'm after so easy way to make this I go over my stock rack I look for something that's ready to go I find a piece of precision ground stock ready to rip so that it's reasonably parallel I get four worn out inserts that are flat face inserts no relief grooves are flat on the other side they conveniently have a little pocket in the back to hold my blackmax 380 and there on the surface plate which is a good plane so as these when I flip this over the plates going to basically hold them flat so I'm not gonna have to lap these for the purposes of what I'm doing I have a magic marker mark here and here I've already measured the distance between these and set them at 11 inches I have spaced these for the distance between them got a drip of Black Max ready to fall off there so I'm gonna get that on there I need a big enough drop that I know it's going to extrude out whoo that's definitely big enough I put it gonna glue it to the pleat okay and I have that space such that I'm going to visually line up the edge this towards me of that on this edge here and none of this is is ultra precision so and I have the I have the plate this has a little bit of a bow this way so I'm actually going to glue this side down so that the when level sits on here it'll sits on two points instead of a bow so I want it concave where the levels going to sit so I'm just going to dust off these spots here where the 380 is going to hit and I'm just going to set this down on there and let the let the glue cure so I'm just visually lining up with the edge of the plate and my magic marker mark here and I'm just going to plant down and plunk it and let it go and let it sit by gravity now as that glue cures it's inherently curing in whatever shape is necessary to fill in the gaps such that these feet are still good and flat like we said this is an ultra precision right now this is however it's it's even if the feet aren't sitting perfectly flat on the table you know it's not a hundred percent contact doesn't matter just after a consistent reading such that when we move the level the three times we can say okay we're you know uphill like this flat uphill like this okay we're concave or the opposite we're downhill like this level downhill we know we're convex and we can make our adjustments with the laughing so I'm gonna let this cure a few minutes okay I changed my mind a little bit I think I'm gonna actually just use little tiny tabs of black max to glue this on because I want to be able to lift it by the insulated grip and I want really small dabs on there because I don't want this to be you know jackhammer removable I want to be able to snap it off so there's our there's our nice 11 inch foot spacing precision level that's going to allow me to assess the condition to plate to actually to a darn accurate degree and the remember here the benefit here of the long spacing is minimal number of moves to see what's going on so here's the feet you can see what's going on here the actual foot right there and style of insert I'm using not that that's important but just a flat top since I just happened that a lap sitting here there's no harm in lapping the feet so we've got somewhat reasonable contact I don't have to be covering everywhere remember this is just for rough a rough estimation and obviously the glue didn't didn't put them down as level as I thought they would be but there's plenty good enough for what we're doing okay what am I doing here this is centered on the plate and what I have behind here is just some chunks of metal that equal the weight of this I have two pieces of Kapton tape on here just to be a non harming foot rest for that and I put that there because this is basically a technique to be a poor-man's differential level what I mean by that is when I go now to this position down here which is the actual position that center position won't actually be used I will bring this down we're it's center of gravity is the same distance away from the center line is this to counteract the weight difference next move I'll do the same thing I'll go out to here and I'll come down to here where the center of gravity of that is this and that is getting rid not getting rid of minimizing the deflection of the plate because of the weight variations remember the pads that I put on here are pretty well designed to minimize the squish of the pads with the change of weight on the plate but you still have the deflection of the actual metal frame everything moves with any changes of forces whatsoever everything's going to change the shape so you just always have to be thinking that way so this is how I'm going to do the poor man's differential level and what I'm going to do is I'm going to bring this back to center and I'm going to put this on center and then I'm going to just run the block down all the way to one end so you can see the bubble move from a non-uniform movement so the levels in the center of the plate now I'm just going to run its equivalent weight down to the far left and I'm not changing my stance at all I see that with shading our art view here you also have to be very careful with levels of your body heat the vial the shape of the vial that gives you this kind of sensitivity it's very very subtle and just thermal changes touching the vial with your finger or whatever can can change things so we can see where we are right there I'm going to come back not sure if we have any significant motion like I said I did design this to be stiff as all get-out the best I could and you can see that that bubble is moving just a little bit to the left not quite a half a division maybe a third of a division to the left in that centered position and it does take time for the bubble to settle out and remember here we're not trying to calibrate this plate for this right now I'm just simply trying to get a general feel for the shape of the plate so that I can adjust my lapping accordingly I could be severely concave I could be severely convex I could be flat I have no idea but my for any of those conditions my lapping technique should change accordingly so if we look at the right-hand edge of that bubble it's just peeking out just past that line and the left-hand edge of the bubble is just about half a division it's just about in the middle there so I'm gonna move this down and I'm not changing my position on the floor because my changing my position the floor will change things also and I think you can see I need to shade that again because that's there we go I think you can see that bubble has now moved to where the right-hand edge is now and getting close to the halfway point and the left-hand edge is getting close to just peeking out the edge so we're looking at a good almost half a division which is a tenth in that 11 roughly 10 ish so just wanted to show you the principle show you that the the actual me put using this weight is going to help to calibrate this not calibrate it but to compensate for plate shift while I do this I'm gonna start down here at this end put this down here mork's take this down to the far end sixth sense I get this is zero so now we're going to move to the next one here I'm going to come to here move this into the so that Senator gravity is splitting this difference here but the bubbles settle so Rome to this being 0 this is minus defense so this is curving uphill here so now we're going to switch places come here here this is a good plus for from here so if this was 0 these are the 0 from this side this is plus 4 10 and then we'll move down over here make sure I see things from the floor okay that's a bit four divisions this is three divisions so this is plus six from here so plus six added onto this plus four words plus a thousand okay and then if we come over here and translate this from zero as minus 2 so this becomes plus two tense and that would make this plus e okay so that's that's the information off after I was being very careful not to over hang a lot I can see that I need to over hang more because I'm now plus I'm almost a thousand PI so this thing is con cave 1000 roughly thousand here eight tenths there so I'm gonna do to keep this on the other side I'm not going to go through that again you get the principle you can see that we've used some techniques here to mitigate the effects of weight on the on the surface plate that is one of the beauties of the Renza meter is that it has nothing to do with level so I don't have to worry about any of that when I get this out I just don't want to be remember a lot of times spent on lapping the feet to be the exact same height and I want that to be more of a finish instrument this is telling us everything we need need to know very quickly no major math involved let's me know what I need to do so I'm gonna do it crossways now so I get a feel for that I'm just going to do those two and and say okay that's enough for me to know what I need to do to change my technique you now from knowing that my ends are really high both directions the other end was about four tenths in that distance so with that in mind I'm going to over hang a bit more but I'm going to have to be careful because as I overhang more this plate is going to tend to get concave so I'm going to need to do a lot more the spin action to have that not be the case I'm actually going to go to that direction get the loose particles going that way [Applause] [Music] [Applause] our reason I did that is to I just up the pile of my pile but significant amount of free bracing there I don't want that all piled there so there's long four strokes or to get some of that out there we've got more this way now to the plate I'll keep an eye on things so that's actually good even though this place even though this plate is concave the lap is convex which should make sense so the overhang [Music] is late to help to this bringing plate engine need more time max [Music] [Music] wow this really feels like I've really got to get charged on this thing fun this is the funniest gaming alone [Music] [Music] as with all things scraping whatever laughing you're not just going through the motions you have to be thinking about the mechanics of what's going on as you saw here I needed to assess the curvature of the plate to change my technique I think as much as that was out I can do another mother last year it was part of it let's see winter weather and we're still we're still changing the center which is good maybe that reason even here [Music] [Music] okay what that tells me right there from my experience that big smudge means that this is really filled with color see this there's lots a ton of granite dust there soon as you feel a pick up like I'm worrying that this is a learning experience I'm learning as I go here and that's the what the kind of the attitude you have to take yeah that's what's going on so I'm learning now that you can't go too far now this is really got charge I can feel it with the microfiber that that's really I really got some good diamond embedding in there and this this left starting to really really percolate and remember this isn't false humility I'm simply applying techniques I know they're the I'm confident that I will get this plate flat but the people that know what they're doing doing this may cuckoo some of what I'm doing just like anything else when you do it are the clear blue they're going to be things that you you learn on the way and the people that already know I'm watching and going oh my god yeah they're screaming at the screening at the camera for at the video say no no don't do that but yeah that's the way it is and you just have to be kind of fearless in taking this on one of the great things is that whole was here this is almost like probably good eat tense deep that hole it's almost going so in the process of this we're going to see that that so I need to finish so I was in the process of doing the pass across here and he's finished where I was [Music] one thing I notice is that the lap does pretty quickly music plays we still have pretty much pleased it right here but I'm gonna wipe off stuffs here try to not just keep driving over what I've just done to minimize that thing packing up again and riding on the on the dust [Music] at least in that direction that doesn't greet them and see how it is paying attention almost how much that's change or our gauging points are getting inside down instead of on the center so I'm actually going to clean this off and see what we've done to that past just to get a feel for it since this is relatively quick so I could have just assumed that uh okay since that did that and we laughed with the plate everything should be the same but you notice the first thing I did was the ends I ran it over the lengthwise to kind of get these edges down to to a degree and then I switched sideways and rolled over the edges but it turns out that this curvature didn't change hardly at all and I attribute that to fresh charge of diamond we did all this we heard that really that real high-pitched singing kind of cut and then as I came to here I started to get the drag and I could feel that I'm not not getting as much of a cut so I have to realize that okay this time now to balance things everything is a matter of balancing I'm going to charge this this time and I'm gonna do the sideways first I'm going to overhang this edge of this edge and do that and that's that's the kind of things I'm talking about is really paying attention to what's going on because all those little nuances or what's gonna be success or failure I don't want guys not understanding that even I might be making this look easy even though I don't really know what I'm doing and I don't want people failing because they don't understand all of the details that I'm thinking about what I'm doing this so at the risk of boring everybody to tears yakety yak about what I'm doing what I'm thinking I'm doing it so that you realize that what makes people what makes things look easy is when people understand the things that are going on and years returning and decisions are being made that you're not aware of I'm trying to tell you everything that's going through my mind whether it's right or wrong good or bad but at least the train of thoughts there so that when you're doing this if you guys attempt this and you should go for it what's the worst you can do is we're on a piece of granite and even that's not I mean just just do it again fix it so I'm just trying to make you aware of really paying attention so I'm going to continue to just tell you my train of thought here as I go I'm learning this if I'd done it all before I would be telling you okay this is what I found to work the best but you're going along for a ride because I don't have time to to do it my first and I can tell you so I hope that was educational or enlightening or you learn something or you really didn't want to watch these anymore whatever it was I hope you got something out of it coming up is using a smaller lap using a lap where I line the face of the lap with aluminum foil because I'm noticing that it's not just not the cast iron on these plates I think is a little hard the plates I'm using it's a little little hard and it's not really able to hold a good charge works for a while but it's mainly working with tumbling abrasion and the charge gets knocked out because it's not quite ductile and soft enough to hold the charge so I'm trying aluminum foil on there with some interesting results and I'll be using larger laps I'll be trying my 18 inch square surface plates that I scraped for three plate method learning that are very flat and with the foil technique I'll be able to actually line them and not ruin the surface plate by charging it with diamond and they'll also be video coming up on their ends and meter itself so as we get to the stage is where I'm gonna be using the wrens meter to actually calibrate the plate and make final fine tunings of the getting topography of this plate in condition I'll be using that and so you'll see a video on the design construction and how that works so hope you enjoyed these and this and if you did please subscribe share tell your friends and I'll be back

Channel: ROBRENZ

Views: 136,849

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Id: 6nY7uW1uG9s

Length: 48min 31sec (2911 seconds)

Published: Mon Mar 05 2018