2.4L Toyota Excessive Oil Consumption - Part 1

having some trouble kind of figuring out how to get started with this video so I think we're just gonna jump into it and hope for the best so behind me is a little red hot rod that's a 2007 Toyota rav4 it's got the 2.4 liter inline four-cylinder engine and it just rolled over 200,000 miles now these are very popular vehicles especially in this area they made probably millions I don't know but this one is special because it belongs to my wife it has been an excellent vehicle very reliable it's got a few little you know nickel dime issues but overall it's a pretty good car but it does have a major problem and that problem is excessive oil consumption and it's a well known well-documented problem with these two easy Toyota engines so we don't need to do a whole lot of testing with the PCV system or anything like that to figure out where the issue is because Toyota has issued a TS be going back all the way to 2011 regarding oil consumption with these engines I will attempt to attach the TSB to the you know down to the description box of this video so look for it there if not you can find it online there's people have have hosted it multiple places anyway it's an excellent TSB it explains the problem tells you how to fix it tells you all the parts and all the tools that you need and yeah very very thorough they updated it in 2015 so that's the one that I'll I'll attach and you guys can feel free to browse through it now Toyota also offered an extended warranty program to basically address this issue now I believe the parameters were the car had to be less than 10 years old and less than 150 thousand miles I'm not positive about that but either way this vehicle is is well outside of those of those cut-offs about 160,000 miles so maybe about three years ago two and years ago I did an oil change and must have been at least three years ago I did an oil change and I noticed that I wasn't getting a whole lot of oil out of it which is odd because well consumption had never been a problem before and to be honest I hadn't really even been checking it because it never used any oil and at that time it was going through approximately a quart sometimes two quarts between oil changes so that be every what four maybe five thousand miles and that's acceptable you know oil consumption not a big deal but then it started to get worse about two years ago it bumped up to where we were adding a quart of oil about every thousand miles and recently like within the last three or four weeks it's gotten even worse than that and we're currently adding a quart of oil approximately every four hundred miles so that is very excessive oil consumption and obviously we need to do something about it because it's gonna quickly get out of hand and if we run the car out of oil you know we have a chance of scoring a cylinder wall or spinning a bearing or a catastrophic failure that would require replacing the engine so the cause of the oil consumption is a design flaw with the engine so when they design the engine that didn't design the oil ring correctly and the drain holes that are associated with the oil ring in the piston are under sized and basically they get they get plugged up with carbon and then the oil you know the oil ring can't scrape the oil off the cylinder walls and it ends up being burned so the remedy for that is pretty intensive you gotta take the engine out you gotta take the engine apart you got to replace the Pistons now if you've ever worked on an engine you know that to replace the Pistons you pretty much had to take the entire engine apart so let's talk about what we can do with this car I guess there's a few different options I mean obviously we could scrap it but I don't want to do that you know it's a it's an excellent car there's really nothing else major wrong with it it needs a few small things the struts and shocks need to be replaced it leaks a little oil from one of the the rear diff what else there's a few issues with the H controls but really it's a pretty good car and it's a little bit rusty on the driver's side but underneath it's clean so I don't want to scrap it that would be a waste and I also I can't sell it you know at least not in good conscience and and who's gonna buy a car that burns you know a quart of oil every 400 miles that would be crazy it has to be fixed if it's gonna stay on the road so there's two ways I guess we could fix it we could look for a used engine and just replace the engine entirely or we could do the same repair that Toyota does under the extended warranty program so I looked around at kind of prices a used engine high mileage is in the eight to nine hundred dollar range and it supposedly low mileage engine is more like thirteen or fourteen hundred dollars and plus you got some shipping and whatnot with that the problem is how do you know that it doesn't have the same oil consumption issue the only way you would know is if you could somehow get the VIN number of the car that the engine came from run it through your Toyota dealership and find out if there's a record that it went through the warranty program and had the updated pistons installed I don't know that that's even possible to do so I would rather not roll the dice and take that risk so I made a call to the Toyota dealership and got some pricing now basically the the parts manager there has agreed to sell me the kit that they buy when they do the repair under a warranty and it's a kit that's all ready to go it includes basically includes your gaskets your head gasket your whatever oil pan gasket remain seal stuff like that and the piston rings are included in that kit then I had to take the pistons and he will match them up I guess there are three different options as far as how the engines were assembled so you had to put the same piston back in that came out there's an a B and a C option the B is the most common and he said actually if they if I have the B Pistons they have them on the shelf at the dealership so I should give you an idea of how prevalent this issue is that my local dealership has parts on the shelf to replace the piston in an engine anyway the pricing is it's 438 dollars for the kit plus $60 each for the Pistons plus whatever miscellaneous stuff filters and and coolant and whatnot we're gonna be about $800 I imagine before we get too far with this job so also this car has been burning oil for a long time and I think well I don't think I know the catalytic converter is toast I did some testing I've got some clips of it I'll try to include it in the video basically I used an infrared thermometer measured the the inlet temperature and the outlet temperature of the catalytic converter it's actually higher at the inlet temperature even when the car is is fully warmed up so I think it's pretty obvious that the converter is not not doing its job also I got very weird kind of action on the downstream o2 sensor which you will see so yeah the converter is toast it's also it periodically will throw me a po4 20 catalytic converter efficiency code so the car knows that the converter is bad and I think we're just gonna have to go ahead and bite the bullet on that now I looked around aftermarket converters are available about 300 bucks they're not too bad so anyway also I think there's something on the front end or on the accessory drive that's it's got a bad bearing or something got a check into that alternator maybe here's something you can you can hear it whining pretty good at idle anybody else hear that sounds like it's kind of whining or worrying a little bit so anyway we're gonna have to spend some money to fix this problem okay anyway I think we ought to just get to it and kind of see where things go I don't know how much of this I'm gonna film or how interesting it would really be I've never done this job before you know I'm not like a factory trained tile a technician or whatever you know I've worked on a lot of engines and a lot of cars but you know I've not worked on this Toyota engine before I don't really know anything about it so I don't know that I'm really in a position to teach people how to do this but maybe you can pick up some some pointers by looking over my shoulder and we'll try to hit kind of hit the high points I looked around there just isn't a whole lot of information about this about this procedure you know I'm sure it was all done by by the dealerships and you know they're not posting videos on YouTube so anyway maybe it'll be helpful for somebody and I don't know we're gonna have to see what we get into when we crack the engine open at this time I'm not planning to do anything else to it I'm not going to grind the valves or or machine the head or even replace the timing chain you know I asked the dealership guy what he thought about that and he kind of of course the dealerships job is to sell new cars so they always make it seem like they're super reliable but he more or less made it seem like the Toyota mechanics are just like the Maytag man you know trying to stay awake because they don't really have anything to fix but he said that basically when they do this job they don't they don't replace anything else I just take the engine apart replace the Pistons put the engine mint together put it back in the car and the problem is solved so if they can do it we can do it [Music] so it looks like the engine wiring harness runs up to the ECM and then into the relay panel here so I went ahead and remove the ECM and then we've got it so be very careful with these anytime you have a bolt in a fuse box especially like on a ground strap or a power connection very very careful because you will break plastic area so these Toyota's take a special fuel line disconnect tool of course but what I found works is I just take my 3/8 old plastic fuel line just connect tool and cut it in half I'll show you how to use it boom well there you go if you don't have the proper tool that'll get you out of a jam I'll put a link in the comment box to where you can buy the real tool it's made by Lyle alright guys I think I'm done underneath so the exhaust is broken loose from the converter and the two brackets from the converter to the block I've removed those bolts and then the bottom bolts in the bell housing are gone and I took the bolts out of the flex plate for the torque converter through this access panel and then on the backside of the engine you can barely see it there's a bracket there that holds the CB shaft and it's bolted to the engine block with three bolts I just took that loose now I didn't sit there and then the AC compressor I took it lists from the block and I'm just gonna let it hang there so hopefully we can go up top take a few things loose and zip this thing out of here is that a 2az service manual you're reading there alright I'm just gonna go back and work on your car while you hold down the couch okay guys the engine is out and it went pretty smoothly did have a few hangups I forgot to remove this harness here where the connectors go down to the transmission so I had to peel all that stuff out of there and then over on the passenger side there's an idler that goes right here and I should have taken that off before I ever even tried to pick it up out of there but once that's out of you know once that's removed then there's plenty of room for the engine to to slide over and and for you to lift it up so yeah everything looks pretty good so the only real catastrophe that I had is this bellhousing bolt for whatever reason this bellhousing bolt comes in from the backside and it actually pokes all the way through and it must have gotten corroded or something where it poked through because when I unscrew it peels all the threads out with it so I can't believe I got it out of there without breaking it but I did however the hole is completely stripped out so I'm gonna have to get a helicoidal kit and we'll drill that one hole out and repair that before we install the engine but otherwise I think we're good to go hey guys welcome back we're gonna crack this engine open today all I've done at this point I mounted it on my engine stand and then I went ahead and took the whole wiring harness completely off the engine and actually if I had been thinking that I should have just done that to start with peel the whole wiring harness back towards the ECM rather than taking it loose the other way I'm having to deal with all the transmission connections and all that stuff so that's a tip I guess for you you know just go ahead the whole arm harness wraps around by the intake manifold it comes down on top of the bell housing so you just start with the alternator or AC compressor and work your way around and peel the whole thing off anyway I went ahead and removed the coils and the plugs and we're just about to take the valve cover off I was sure we were gonna find something note that accessory drive you hear that yeah that's better than a water pump [Music] [Music] well as you can see one of the head bolts came out the hard way it was my fault at their triple square so it takes an m12 triple square socket or bit this is the one I have made by Lyell put a link in the comment box there but for whatever reason I didn't get it all the way down into the you know into the reef female part of the bolt when I when I took my first bite at it and it stripped and then once it did that there was no going back so not a big deal I just I took the torch and heated up the head you know kind of red hot and just let it cool so it would sort of anneal the hard steel of the bolt and then we did a little bit of Dentistry and away we go so obviously we'll need a new head bolt now the fun part starts we've got to basically split the whole crankcase and we're gonna do it without disturbing these balance shafts so you got to take the nipple out of the filter base 12 you done [Music] so they want you to do it from the outside in kind of like a cylinder head alright I got that wheel pump chain out of our way so let's see what we can do here oh let's see dipstick - yep I hope it shows up on the camera but these cylinder walls look fantastic though you can still see some of the original crosshatch mark from when they were they were honed at the factory and there's no scoring there's no ridge at the top you know the book will tell you to use a ridge reamer before you pull the pistons out but it's not necessary in this case I just took some scotch Brighton clean the carbon off the top and yeah I don't see any problems at all and there's no reason we can't put this engine right back together pretty cool 200,000 miles it's been burning oil for 50,000 miles and it's still in fantastic shape I will go ahead and take the connecting rods loose takes a 12 millimeter 12 point socket you're not supposed to mix and match rad caps so they're marked with the number and then they're also they have a little squiggly squiggly mark right here at the parting line so you can't really get it wrong I've got the piston and rod assemblies soaking in some hot oil about 200 degrees Fahrenheit about a hundred degrees Celsius so once they come up the temperature then we can pull the pins out [Music] [Music] well this tensioner pulley has turned into sort of a fiasco so you cannot buy just the pulley or at least I couldn't buy just the pulley from Toyota or from Napa I think there is a Dorman part out there but let's not go there so anyway to buy the whole tensioner assembly from Toyota is a hundred and ninety bucks my cost to buy an aftermarket one from Napa is basically exactly the same amount of money so we're gonna fix the one that we have and I went ahead and tore it apart they really don't want you to do that they use this goofy tamper proof bolt so that you cannot take the pulley off and it is locked tight it on there it's tighter than hell so what I had to do is basically put some vice grips on the bolt and then heat the aluminum here ever so gently with the torch and then back this screw out you could probably also just weld a nut to the head of the bolt and I'm sure it would come out that way just be very careful heating up aluminum you know to try to get the threads to break loose because it's very easy for aluminum to gall when it's been heated anyway so I went ahead and ordered some new bearings there just 60 203 2rs bog-standard deep groove ball bearings look like this I bought them from mcmaster-carr I think they cost about I don't know $5 a piece or something super super cheap well there's the old one there's the new one exactly the same thing these are nsk bearings and we're gonna press them into this pulley then we're gonna put this plate back on this thing and then we're gonna move on with life and these things are so stupid expensive because of this damper you know I was like a some kind of a damper in there to keep the belt from or the tensioner from jumping around and actually 190 bucks isn't that bad I put one of these on a cat c-13 not too long ago three hundred and fifty bucks I will press this in using the hydraulic press and my brian block approved bearing drivers where they went in a lot easier than they came out okay so we'll stick this on here maybe like so and then I purchased a new flange bolt that does not have a bastard head stick that thing on like that a little bit of red loctite on it so then m10 by 35-millimeter if anybody is curious and then will torque that to factory spec click boom belt tensioner fixed total cost I don't know 12 bucks anyway I've done this a lot of times especially with idlers you mean they're just standard ball bearings press them out buy some good quality replacements press them back in Bob's your uncle okay guys everything on the engine is cleaned up and it's ready to go back together I checked all the things like a check and everything looks good I do have most of the parts however the head bolt the one that I screwed up it had to be ordered from the National warehouse in Kentucky and it will not be here till Monday so we can go ahead and assemble the short block I've got all the pistons and everything to do that but we cannot put the head on until I get that bolt at least we can't put it on totally also the catalytic converter I had to order that aftermarket it comes from Tennessee it should also be here in Monday so I think what we're going to do is we'll call this kind of the end of part 1 see how how much footage I have and we'll put it all together and then in part two we will reassemble the engine and put it back in the car and God willing it will start it will run and it will not burn oil so stay tuned for part two thanks for watching

Channel: Watch Wes Work

Views: 112,915

Rating: 4.9533463 out of 5

Keywords: toyota, rav4, camry, sonata, matrix, corolla, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2.4, 2.4L, 2AZ, 2AZ-FE, oil, oil consumption, oil burning, piston, replace, repair, engine, mechanic, remove, fix, rings

Id: d7Nr3O00UlM

Length: 29min 13sec (1753 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 15 2019