Generac WheelHouse Generator / Seized Briggs Engine - Will It Run?

hey guys welcome back so this is today's find it's a generac wheel horse and uh it was pulled out of a barn it was only 25 and listed as engine does not start so you know i immediately thought okay fine dirty carb not a big deal but when looking this thing over i've noticed a couple things i guess first of all you know someone was chasing the problem i can tell because the breather is disconnected also the fuel line is off and uh maybe more concerningly the engine stuck so you know that wasn't disclosed i'd actually be surprised if it ran out of oil because there is a low oil sensor so maybe it's weather seized maybe it's hydrolocked not really sure yet i think the more concerning thing for me anyway is that the stator's unplugged and i can't think of any reason why someone would do this unless they were chasing a power problem so you know i do have an extra 10 horse engine on a shelf if this thing doesn't come back but if the generator head is trash then you know there's no point in putting anything together without a generator head so let me get this plugged back in and do some tests to determine the health of that stator okay it's fairly easy to test the stator from the outlets and generally on the newer briggs leg one is the top row leg two is the bottom uh some of the older ones it's more leg one leg two left and right not sure which this is so i'm just going to test three of them to make sure i get all combinations now to do the test you just need a meter set to ohms and these are usually a pretty low value for this stator i would expect probably around 0.3 and i'd be concerned if it was over 0.5 okay hopefully you can see that 0.3 that's good good and good so it appears that the main windings on this generator head are good i'm going to pull this cover off next i want to test the winding providing power to the brushes as well as the resistance at the slip rings like gotta say it looks really really clean in there so um i think the powerhead is probably gonna test well um so let's see how do i want to do this i'm just going to pull off these wires going to the brushes i think it's ac going in i'm not sure if it really matters where each wire goes but in this case red is on the top okay i already broke it i think um anyway the blue wire wasn't coming off instead the board came off and uh the red wire was extremely loose so that has to be tightened up and reattached so i'm just going to unbolt those brushes and continue on and for what it's worth this tab was facing in it makes a difference you put it on the wrong way clarity would be wrong okay anyway i don't know what the ohms are supposed to be on this i'm guessing if it's like other generators with avrs this would be around 1.5 give or take half an ohm but i honestly don't know let's hope it's not zero 1.5 beautiful okay now i'm going to check the rotor reading on the slip rings if i remember right these are fairly low resistance the newer generators with avrs are around 55. this one i think is around 25 or 30 ohms perfect so i think this generator head is in good shape well besides the damage i did it looked like this board was glued on and maybe it could be salvaged but i'm pretty sure i have another one of these in a bin i'm just going to move on to the engine and see if i can figure out why it's stuck i'm just going to get the tank out of the way give you a better view of what's going on i'm sure that gas is bad too it was in a barn for years as my understanding you know subjected to temperature extremes um now this is designed to be removed the quick connect for the fuel line's already disconnected so just a matter of removing the four bolts and pulling it off with the handle so let's see what we got for oil i don't think we have any oil so that's not a good sign so this might be seized due to lack of oil and um you know if it wasn't seized and not starting i'd say the oil sensor is doing its job in this case it may not have been and the engine might be dead so let me get the spark plug out and see what i can see with the spark plug out if it was hydro locked i should be able to turn the engine over now and we still get nothing okay while that's soaking i'm gonna pull the tins off so i can get access to the fly wheel and try to break that engine free you got it now that is locked solid nope well it moves i mean it feels good it was really stuck let me put some oil in it and i want to throw the spark plug back in get this tin on do a compression test [Music] okay gonna do two tests here at once we get the compression tester hooked up as well as the sprocket tester all right compression's around 45 better than zero and we have spark so this does have a compression release you know i would have expected probably closer to 55 or 60 but i think it'll start so let me get the carb back on bring it outside we'll try try starting with starting fluid and if that goes well we'll try feeding some gas into that carburetor so so this is the one i had sitting around in a bin seems to be the same part so i will go with that tab side in and i believe i said red was connected on top all right i'll give it a quick try with starting fluid kind of like doing that just because i know it's not going to run that long also it's going to splash the oil around just for a second or two and kind of coat everything real good so let me try that and uh go from there well it starts it runs it makes power and it kept running which i don't quite understand because this bowl i was pretty certain was empty anyway what really surprised me was the geyser coming out of the crankcase vent um i must have misread the dipstick it must be full of water or gas in that crankcase and the dipstick did seem a little wet but usually you can see that nice defined oil line which i wasn't seeing now i know why okay i'm afraid to pull this bolt i'm afraid whatever pan i put under there is going to be way too small so i'm going to try to pull off this dipstick and i've got a transfer pump which i'm going to use to empty out most of this crankcase before pulling the bolt down here well surprisingly not much additional oil came out it was pretty diluted you know i'm not i'm not sure if it was gas or water i think it was gas um anyway i'm gonna fill it back up with used oil run it a bit and change it probably a couple times with used oil just trying to flush all the water out really and once that's done i'll put fresh stuff in good enough try a little bit of gas this time since it seemed like the carburetor was trying to do what it wanted to do so a little fast it's running a little faster okay not bad uh the carburetor needs to be fully choked to get it to run at all and um under 3000 watts the 8 hertz sagged to 52 and it's not necessarily an engine problem if it's not able to get enough gas that could also cause it so i'm going to clean up the carburetor and try that test again there was a lot of smoke too coming out of the exhaust that kind of worked itself out i think there's just a lot of oil in there in fact i still see smoke coming from it now so um but i think that will clear up anyway not too bad you know i honestly didn't give this thing much hope so i'm gonna get this back to the garage just doing another oil change and then i'll um i guess turn you back on for the carp clean i did crack these screws loose with some vice grips it almost never works just using a screwdriver okay not too bad hmm there's not much to this carb really the main jet is in there and it is removable so let me try to get that out hopefully that comes through but that is the main jet it is not clogged so you know this thing was running pretty poorly um besides the main jet there's not a lot else on here besides you know there's some holes here on the side of the throttle body i'll run a wire through those run the wire through all the holes on the emulsion tube as well as the holes that are right here and give it a bath in the ultrasonic and then we'll try it again so these are just gauge drill bits i found the biggest one that will fit it's kind of snug but that's how i want it to just kind of scrape off any junk on the walls of this jet so this carburetor i didn't see any problems with it you know i'm thinking potentially some of the debris that's in this bowl was just blocking the jet a bit not sure so i'm going to give it a quick bath in the ultrasonic and try it again um okay cleaned up pretty well not that it was that bad to begin with but it definitely had a run issue so hopefully it's good now so so so so so done so i took a minute just cleaned this side and you can see how nice this is going to clean up i did the same to the heat shield on the left and started cleaning the stator and the engine block and there's really no rust to speak of it was just covered in dirt i mean you couldn't even see the aluminum color before but it is going to clean up quite nice now the only place there is rust is up here and i'm guessing there was a critter living there at one point and you can kind of see even underneath you know the signs of where stuff may have been dripping down so you know that's unfortunate but it's not going to affect anything as long as that governor arm is still sound and it is there's plenty of material left so um i don't think we have an issue there okay curious if the compressions come up at all now that the engine has run it was at 45 before should be 60. beautiful we're at 60 well a little below 58 maybe that's great that's where we should be all right can i give this cleaned up carburetor another try it wasn't that dirty so i'm not sure if it's gonna run better uh i hope it does [Applause] so [Music] is okay good i was worried there for a minute it um i was able to turn the choke off right away but it was sputtering like it was losing spark or there was a valve issue but it just turned out the switch was kind of shaking and intermittently grounding out so it was kind of intermittently losing spark by doing that anyway it runs great when the switch isn't grounding out so i'm gonna get the space heaters back out here and try that 3000 watt load again okay actually before putting the space heaters on it i'm going to start it up again adjust it closer to 62 hertz now this engine doesn't have an avr so at 62 hertz it's gonna be a high voltage probably around 130 volts uh which is fine uh but right now i think it's running over 63 hertz so i do want to bump it down just a touch so that's good okay good the engine speed was adjusted just by bending this tab here if you decrease that spring tension the engine will slow down so that's what i did brought it down to about 62 hertz and then put a 3000 watt load on it and it handled it just fine it was at 59 and a half hertz which is great so it was just the carburetor that was causing you know the power problem earlier anyway from an engine and generator point of view this thing is done you know it runs great now the gas tank's a different story i haven't really done much with that i know the fuel line has to be replaced the fuel has to be drained and the tank cleaned up so i'm going to do that now and then put the whole thing together and bring it out for one final test just want to go on record this is oil change number three and i think it's earned some new oils so i'm going to fill it up with the good stuff all right so this line is petrified i got to get it off also this quick connect it looks like it's supposed to have two o-rings and there's only one and the one that's there seems a bit petrified so i've got an assortment here hopefully one of them is the right size anyway let me get this hose off and see if i can replace this one and put a new one there yeah i think these are good so just use two of those keep this one just in case okay i was wrong it wasn't actually missing an o-ring on this inner channel um this is where the quick disconnect clicks into place so i'm just gonna get this o-ring out of here okay that should do yeah it's old but actually it doesn't look like it's bad yet so regardless i'm going to drain it out and get some fresh stuff in there do so not a big deal but this one is distorted a bit right there i'm not really sure what happened but you know i have a better one hanging around so i'm going to try to use this one get everything back together and cleaned up i did end up replacing this little piece too it was pretty petrified but you know we got got all new fuel lines new clamps and uh this thing's complete so i'm gonna just start it one more time load it up with 3000 watts make sure nothing has changed got lucky on this one i thought for sure i'd at least be doing an engine swap and this thing runs great starts first pull no smoke handles the load without issue anyway i hope this video helps someone thanks for watching

Channel: James Condon

Views: 107,772

Keywords: 01646, 01646-02, Briggs and Stratton, Briggs, Brush Replacement, Carburetor Cleaning, Carburetor, Compression Test, Crankcase Full of Gas, Generac, Generator, Hydrolocked, Model 01646, Nikki, Only Runs on Choke, Seized Engine, Small Engine Repair, Spark Test, Stator Testing, Troubleshooting, Wheel Horse, Wheel House, WheelHouse

Id: rutpzGQp5zQ

Length: 37min 9sec (2229 seconds)

Published: Thu Jul 02 2020