Husky Generator - No Power

hey guys welcome back so today brought home this 5000 watt husky generator it is powered by a nine horse briggs and stratton engine and this doesn't make power you know the seller listed it at 285 which is a lot of money for something that doesn't do what it's supposed to do so you know i offered him 100 bucks he turned me down but a day later he countered at 170 and asked if i was interested which obviously i was because here it is now in the description he did state that it needs a new circuit breaker which costs 70 bucks and most likely that is the cause of the problem so you know maybe it is maybe it isn't you know unfortunately he took the circuit breaker out and it didn't come with the generator so there's no way to test that but i do have extra circuit breakers you know worst case i do have also an extra power head so one way or another this will make power again but before just throwing another circuit breaker in there and starting it up i'm going to pull the end cover off the generator head i want to look at it visually make sure it looks okay and i'm going to check each coil and make sure that each one is healthy and if that all checks out we'll get that replaced we'll bring it outside and see what it can do so let me get you set up a little bit better and get going on this thing so so i got the avr out of the way just to get a better look at the stator and the windings seem to be in pretty good shape i'm not seeing any broken ropes no obvious problems so we're off to a good start i think i'll get the multimeter out we'll test each of the coils and see if things keep looking good so on this generator you can test the ohms directly down here but there's also this quick disconnect plug which i do like to use i do use this quite a bit and the way it's wired is that leg one is diagonal from each other and leg two diagonal the other way so we'll just check one of the legs right now this should be around 0.4 ohms and it is and now the other leg we get the same and those readings are consistent which is good so now i'm just going to test this to ground make sure there's no connection and there's not i'll try the other leg to ground no connection so it seems to be good and you can also check the other main winding make sure there's no cross connect and there's not so the main windings appear to be in good health next we should check these here we have two blue wires and those supply the power to the avr those are the excitation windings and the white and green wires are the sense windings and generally they are connected into the main windings so the main windings good most likely the sense is as well we'll start with the blue wires which should be about one and a half ohms we're at 1.6 1.7 you know this meter has an internal resistance of 0.1 so that puts us at one and a half ohms which is good we'll also check this to ground and there's no connection we'll check it to the sense winding no connection and check it to the main winding no connection so the excitation winding seems to be good and the sense winding should be about the same as the stator which is 0.4 ohms in this case we're at point two point three that's good let's just check it to the excitation winding no connection and we'll check it to the main windings and there is a connection but that's okay it is the sense winding and that is usually part of the main winding so things look pretty good i guess the last thing to check is the rotor health and i'm going to do that through the brushes this rotor should be 70 ohms or less it's probably going to be higher actually going through the brushes which wouldn't surprise me but as long as we're you know around 100 or less i would consider that good when going through the brushes yeah that's way too high yeah that number number's too high that's 0.3 000 ohms that's much too high so i'm going to get the brushes off we'll do the test again yeah the brushes themselves look to be in pretty good condition yeah we're around 53 ohms so those slip rings must be pretty dirty it's hard to get a good reading it's pretty hard to show you but that's kind of the best shot i can get the slip rings they don't look awful but it's enough to make the readings go pretty high probably the easiest way to clean the slip rings is using a piece of scotch brite the way i do it is i just hold it on a slip ring and while doing that i rotate the engine using the rotor bolt now needless to say use precaution because you are turning the engine over you don't want it to start so i always make sure the switch is set in the off position i also remove the spark plug not only to prevent it from starting but now there's no compression and it's much easier to do this so you're not going to be able to see too much my hand's going to be in the way but that is the general procedure i think the one thing you want to be careful of is that the wires from the rotor connect to the slip ring right next to the slip ring so you want to be very careful not to knock into those wires or you're going to make a big problem for yourself so that there's the end result they look much better and that didn't take long at all to do so let's get the brushes back on and take another reading yeah much better we're at 54 ohms that's perfect we'll just check it to ground to make sure there's no connection and there's not so from what i can tell at least at the low voltage tests with the multimeter this powerhead is good and when reconnecting the brushes make sure the red wire which is the positive goes on the left brush okay that's it for now i'm going to leave the end cover off until we know there's nothing else going on in here now as far as this outlet goes you know i could replace the circuit breaker but i do have another whole box here i can just install complete with the circuit breaker so that's probably the easiest thing to do there's only four nuts in the back here holding this box in place i'll get those out swap a new one in and we should be good to go well i wasn't going to film this part of it but i do drain the fuel from everything i get regardless of the run condition of the machine and supposedly this is a good running engine haven't actually started it yet but what i just drained out of the tank tells me otherwise you know i pulled the fuel line off the carb the fuel inlet actually has rust on it and the fuel itself you know it's pretty expired i can't even see the bottom of the cup so yeah we'll get the rest of this out potentially the car might need to be cleaned as well okay let's give this thing a try i've got the test tank hooked up mostly because i don't want to fill that tank with fuel now that it's empty let's see if this thing starts and makes power okay well i thought i was going to get away with not cleaning the carb but as you can see it's not starting so most likely it is the carb we get it inside again and pull it off and clean it up before pulling the carburetor off i am just going to spray a bit of starting fluid in there i want to make sure we don't have a spark issue uh yeah that was a bit unexpected but it started right up and kept going until it ran out of fuel because i don't have the test tank hooked up anymore let's get this back outside we'll try it again okay let's try this again yeah we get nothing just like last time so there is something going on inside that carb it has to come off you so i was only able to crack one of these loose with the impact these are jis screws i tried this jis screwdriver wasn't having it and the impact isn't either so vice grips work well you know this is already getting chewed up so don't want to make it any worse we'll just crack it free with the vice grips and then get it the rest of the way out there we go it doesn't look too bad in here that's the main jet i can usually poke that out easy enough the main jets not clogged so yeah i mean overall this doesn't look too bad potentially there was water down there i think a lot of it dripped out before i could really catch it in the cup and you know the top part of the carb is pretty dirty i do see some signs of something right there and yeah it doesn't take much it could just be a little clogged passage there's also some passages right here these two tubes pick up fuel but they don't look clogged either so yeah i'm suspecting a quick clean and the ultrasonic should bring this right back you all right well i'm going to leave the seal alone i don't like putting it through the ultrasonic the solution i use doesn't cause them to expand like carburetor cleaner but it at times can shrink them and yeah this needs to be a perfect fit but it's stuck in there so well i don't think i need to worry about it that came out pretty well so this should run you know i didn't really find any smoking gun as far as why it wouldn't i think the best i could come up with was the debris that was up here or potentially some water in the system so let's get this back together and see if it'll run now on its own you you okay let's try this again a little bit slow and the voltage is also a bit low okay well that's more like it started first pull turn the choke off right away and the engine sounded good the engine speed was also decent it was at 61. about 61 hertz but the voltage is low it was just over 113 volts so that has to be bumped up you know under a 3 000 watt load the engine did pretty well it was about 58 and a half hertz so it's a drop of two and a half hertz which isn't too bad i mean this is not a 10 horse engine like the storm responder this is actually a nine horse engine this generator is only rated at 5000 watts so it held pretty well i think i'm just going to pop that avr off adjust the potentiometer a bit and see if we can't get that voltage closer to 120 volts if not a little bit over and that is the potentiometer right there in the adjustment screw usually it's clockwise to bring the voltage up so that's what i'm going to try first now the sensitivity varies among these a lot of times one full turn will get about 2 volts sometimes it'll get 20 volts so don't go crazy on it maybe start with the turn see where the voltage goes and then fine tune it from there that came up two volts yeah so one turn brought it from 113 to 115 so we need at least two and a half more turns beautiful okay perfect we're now at 120.7 volts so i'm gonna get this back inside get the oil changed while it's hot and then we'll finish putting this thing back together and you can see this is what came out it's actually very clean probably one of the cleanest i've seen but you know i don't know what weight oil that was and it's the middle of the winter so potentially that's just 30 weight and around here anyway 10 30 is much safer so that's what i put in 10 30 synthetic all right i think you missed it but you didn't miss much all i did was get a zip tie around here and attach it to this bolt the zip ties i use have this through hole right here and that is for applications like this where you need a bolt to hold it in place all right well that's pretty much it you know i got the fuel line reconnected and there's really nothing else to do on this other than maybe clean it up a bit more so got pretty lucky on this one it was just the circuit breaker and you know for a minute there i thought i was going to get away with not cleaning the carb but seems like i always have to clean the carb and this one was no different but now it runs well makes power and yeah that's pretty much it so hope this video helps someone thanks for watching

Channel: James Condon

Views: 16,452

Rating: 4.975945 out of 5

Keywords: Husky, Generator, No Power, Outlets, Carburetor, Will Not Start, Small Engine, Briggs and Stratton, Troubleshooting, Circuit Breaker, Fixed

Id: nK2BzGRaNpk

Length: 32min 10sec (1930 seconds)

Published: Thu Mar 18 2021