Gable Channel

the gable channel offers several positive advantages it securely anchors the shingle as the shingle comes and bends down into the channel secondly it avoids the entrapment of debris there's no place for leaves or twigs or anything to get stuck and finally it's going to highlight the tapered profile of the shingle as you look at the gable channel from the side you're going to be able to see the shingle and the taper that's built into it now the first thing that I want to do when I install the the gable channel actually can be done on the ground if I know the pitch of my roof I can simply use a pitch finder and I can take my sliding T bevel and I can adjust it for the particular pitch which in this case is a 512 so I've adjusted my sliding T bevel to the 512 pitch and on the ground I'm going to be able to come to the bottom edge of the piece I'm going to mark a line here just going to represent that 512 pitch I'm going to come back about a half an inch I want there to be portion of this water return channel that sticks out past the butt of the shingle I'm going to mark a line straight over and you get style points if you round your corners so now as we come to this bottom edge down here you can see now that the cut is going to be plumb I'm going to make sure that this water return channel comes out a half an inch past the edge of the drip edge one thing that's a very very helpful to do is before you ever install the gable channel is simply to over bend it the length of the channel and that will help it to hug the gable if you're particularly concerned about wind uplift which which normally shouldn't be a problem with the bent over shingles tuck down into the channel holding the channel down but if you want a little extra insurance then you can take some trim nails maybe every six foot or so and maybe nail through the face into the gable and then use some touch-up paint right now I'm going to put a nail right at the very top here up at the up at the peak once I'm sure that my bottom edge of the gable channel is where it needs to be a half an inch past the drip edge I can come up here just temporarily tack that in place so it's not going to move on me and then I'm going to mark my my plumb line and again I wouldn't even have to do this facing the gable I could simply from the roof mark that point right there and as long as I've got my tee bevel set to that 512 pitch and I've got this point marked then I can come down and I can mark where that plumb line is I'm going to come about a half an inch then pass the plumb line and I'm going to run my first piece of cable channel long and that is past the plumb line I'm going to come up at an angle there I'm going to angle up here and I want to leave maybe about so two inches past the ridge line I'm going to cut that about right there and I'm going to fold that piece over the ridge and nail onto that at this point I need to cut that at an angle rights to the plumb line I want to cut from the plumb line down here at an angle as well cut that at about the same angle I'm just going to trim this off because I really don't need or want that to hang down like that then I'm going to have to flip it over I'm going to have to do a taper cut right back here in order for the piece to fit in from the other side and I'm going to open that up just just a little one last thing I need to do is to go straight over from this and make a a relief cut then I'll be able to bend that over and I'm also going to open these two hems up so so that the piece from the other side can nest inside of that now I can go ahead and put this back up on the deck notice that we've got that right on on the plumb line there and I'm going to put one nail close to the ridge there okay at this point we want to simulate a situation in which the gable length is longer than the length of an individual lineal with the castle and iron system the gable lineal Tsar ten foot long as you can see I've got one piece presently in place I've done my plumb cut at the bottom end it's off a half an inch beyond the the drip edge you notice I put one nail at the top the very top because I'm going to lap over that so it will be concealed now I need to to cover the remaining distance and again if I know my gable length I can cut all my pieces on the ground before I ever go up onto the roof if I know the gable length and if I know the the pitch of the roof so I've again put this in place and now I can measure this distance here and I've got 28 inches I'm going to add three inches for overlap down here and so I'm going to go 31 inches and that's going to represent the point at the peak it's the 28th plus 3 inches of overlap and then I'm going to go about two more inches past the peak for a fold over again I've got my sliding tee bevel still set for a 512 pitch there is going to be my plumb cut these flanges again I'll open up so that these will nest inside and it will represent my ridge line holes that I need to do on the the bottom piece here is is to open up this hem and I'm going to do a taper cut you know about well maybe two and a half inches there and open up this bottom hem so now I'm going to nest this inside of here I want to make sure that this gable channel slides down inside of this channel and this bottom hem I'm going to wrap around this taper so now I can go ahead and slide the piece down one nail again on the flap over the ridge I'm going to wrap those around wrap this around and I'm going to make a note to apply at least one clip here where these two pieces overlap not a bad idea to run a bead of sealant underneath here and over that nail head and then I'm going to pinch that down below and we should be ready to put shingles on

Channel: Kassel & Irons

Views: 75,666

Rating: 4.4649682 out of 5

Keywords: Gable, Channel, kasselwood, installation, metal, roof, roofing, steel, instructions, how-to, system

Id: kZ4x76GWyL4

Length: 11min 19sec (679 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 02 2012