4R75E Transmission Teardown Inspection - Transmission Repair

a little welcome again I have a 2005 or 75e he's at 5l 3p so first digit being the gear model the way to identify a 475 from a4 or 70w is then the four are 70w only has the output speed sensor and 475 they added a speed sensor here other than that everything looks similar but there's some differences inside of the unit as well so we're going to do a turn on inspection of this unit and see what we can find you had a trouble of going forward and I believe the customer said he was slipping the reverse as well so let's go ahead and get at it go ahead and turn this unit down and see what we can't find so the first thing I'll get this speed sensors out of the way make it easier for disassembly I have already taken the extension the 4x4 extension Alvin all I'm going to take the manual lever position sensor or if this case is a digital transmission range sensor or DTR or store you transmission range sensor and go ahead and remove the pump bolts I'm going to use to e4 OD extension housing both that I have here extras to pull my pump out coming okay I'm going to remove these bolts use a slide hammer or any anything that you can think of so here we have our hub gasket this is our complete pump assembly this is the intermediate or second sludge piston we've got them a little bit too close to the camera there you go this a second clutch piston this washer here it's also selective and this washer it's a number three that's inside just go ahead and disassemble the phone this is the puck stator this is where the pump years ride is nice and smooth it's not sport or mark it might be a little bit shiny that's considered normal now here on the back you have the sealing rings these two bottles hidden rings are for the reverse input clutch drum and these two top sitting rings are for the forward plus drum this is our inner toe here it's in a very good shape this is the our pump year it is in very very good shape as well you can use a feeler gauge or whatever you want to do but after doing so many transmissions just by looking at it you already know that this transmission seemed to shake [Music] this is an intermediate limitation has molded or bonded rubber to the piston here we go this is our front pump that's a front seal this is the pump bushing there you have all right well sorry about that we got interrupted now this model for late models this is actually the return spring for the intermediate piston which is good side over here now I'm going to remove the can [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so here in Japan [Music] when I get it closer here got a lot of battle in it get right here in this corner all those tiny particles get a little closer here that's a lot of metal [Music] [Applause] [Music] this is called a conductor strip or in other words we would be on on early models the wiring harness insert a wire harness but this is a plastic molded the worn harness or a conductor strip he conducts it connects the connector outside connector to your shift solenoids and lock up solenoid and pressure control solenoid let's go ahead and remove the valve body to remove the valve body we remove all the es at 8 millimeter sockets or vote all the 8 millimeter bolts yeah we got all the move this screen right here not all bottles has to have it goes right here this is just a to protect the epc circuit you see here it goes through here and this is the pressure control solenoid and the Front's not off the solenoid it's on this warm track here so it protects the debris from the converter falling in there or actually from the pump here fighting its way to the precedent go solo and it also helps protect the plugged ears as well Bolg asking whenever you see the gas gets attached to the case like this that means that this transmission got a little bit overheated for the gaskets you bond to the aluminum we're going to set the valve body to the side as well we're doing here is we're trying to find out why this transmission fail and where is stay here was in the third accumulator return spring third accumulator piston I'm going to remove the 1/2 accumulator cover remove the snap ring this is the 1/2 accumulator cover this is the 1/2 accumulator bottom springs now in early models they only have the outer spring and this spring here likes to break a lot and I believe that's why they added a internal spring with it when this spring breaks what you have you will take off in first gear sometimes it will skip second it'll go directly to third and sometimes it'll slip in second gear and if you have that symptom probably this spring right here is broke what to accumulate a piston it's a molded Pistons got molded rubber to the steel and this is the top one to accumulator spring I want to drain a little bit of excess fluid from the case would it take the old dry server oil so we can get everything else out of the barrel of the case overdrive servo remove the snap ring here now I'm puttin my hand here because this snapping here likes to fly off and it is there against the pressure from the whole Drive server returns frame so you want to make sure that these doesn't doesn't go to your high or anywhere else for that matter [Music] see what I'd say it's under pressure you just got to be very very careful when we're moving to snap rate sometimes it snapping brakes with a couple of pieces and it very hard to get out sometimes you have to drill a little passage on the side get your pick behind it and get it out all right now I'm going to flip this condition over here you can see what was going on now we're going to remove along the internals this is our eight-foot shaft I'm going to wiggle and pull on it now they're going to stay here they flew all this is the anti-rattle spring here early models don't take it and I never heard this a clutch back here rattle before but if you had it and your unit it goes at the water o'clock position these are by second gear or intermediate clutches or frictions conceited they're in good shape on the steel plates I will see no heat marks so what this means is that this transmission was not sleep early second okay he would ever see a little bit of heat marks on this steel plate so he might've uh reach in the second gear now this is the overdrive and as you can see there it's black in the center it's a little bit red on the edges what that means is that this band is all dry banished no beauty we're slipping in fourth gear put that side now this drum right here this is called the reverse input drum housing in houses video reverse instrument friction or clutches that's a new day we shame who haven't buried these are the reversing Patricia's or reversing lunchbox roasting the inside of the drone on the outside of the drum the overdrive band breaks this drug for overdrive right here on top you have the intermediate scrag so whenever the second clutch or intermediate clutch supply and also holds this drum so this is like this is sort of sort of like a multi-function drum reverse input overdrive on the outside and intermediate here in the rear go ahead and remove the snap ring we're not going to reuse this map room we're going to put a shirt your kid comes with an upgraded the snap ring here's our intermediate frag assembly or in this case this is a mechanical diode this is a little bit different from the earlier models where you have rollers on it and you had a had an outer race and he will be on the drum it was a little different and it would break on the drum you had it was considered a one-way punch but this is a one-way clutch as well and they call it a mechanical diode he turned one way and he locks the opposite way just like a diode does the turn flow and our culprit is going to be here in this room very concerned or here this is the name foot clutch housing or the forward drum I'm going to tape the clutch back all through the drum and I'm going to show you what happens to this drum be very popular on Oh for in up units see the color of this backing plate or this pressure plate that's how Heidi got let me give you a side-by-side comparison of a known good friction do you see that there and a burn friction see how this is nice and light brown and this is not even I mean it's just black and see that see how your plexus like that he has no friction material on it he's gone it's burn this is the rest of the friction all burn the bottom one has a little bit of a raid on one side or brown with a little bit of a shiny black and on the opposite end just completely burnt up okay so this clutch pack is burnt up why did it burn up here's the problem by here see this line right here this drum split where the snap ring goes this drum mystery is no good no more this drum actually had the HD pop now the reason for that is probably the material that they used to stamp the steel to snap this grow another thing that I think is more common sense is valve body where if you have high line pressure this could happen so taking that in consideration this unit is going to take a searcher kit we're going to correct that I have another video on the 470 full rear bill you can watch that as well this beauty right here she's only going to concentrate on the teardown inspection we already found one problem actually we found two problems but this could be the cause of that let's continue to dig in forward hub assembly another bearing with that side here we have a Sun gear shell again dude Baron to go see between the Sun gear shell and the Sun gear likes to disintegrate it gets caught up inside the planetary here and it just destroys the whole gear train assembly but to prevent that we're going to install even if this bearing is good they look in perfect condition but he likes to do that it's a pattern failure so on paddle faders what you want to do you want to avoid it is here ashabi you're doing this for your customer you don't want the Turner she's coming back destroy it it's going to come out of you out of your pocket so just to prevent that you're going to put this barring the likes to just get destroyed brand-new party models the Sun gear shell was all stamped steel this is a different material the reason for that is because of the added speed sensor on the side of the games now another thing I want you to notice is that this Sun gear shell is already worn out needs to be replaced see the cancellations here and see the where I'm going to get a little closer see that we're right there this is where the reverse input drum slides into this is just normal wear on the Sun gear shell you can reuse it that's no big deal by being like that a man is going to probably do a little clunking noise or or drivability issues and you don't want that so we're going to go ahead and replace this as well now for our center score value to remove the snap ring now in early models both aims were curved like this and then we're positioned on this side on this hand go far enough when they added the extra speed sensor they had to get rid of one in because you want the clearance or the sensor not to touch the snap ring is essentially would touch the snap ring you would have no signal so this is the reason for one end being flat as the early models have both aims curved like this now we're going to remove the antique pump spring this is the antique one spring he goes on centers for expert not to a plug inside of the case now I cannot remove the no reverser mole piston but it's going to be a little bit tricky getting this thing out because the band is partially applied so just bear with me a little bit I'm going to get the whole lecture here assembly out of the unit here we go now these but here we got our Center sport with a big bushing this is the added Knox that they made for the intermediate heat sensor go through goes on the outside of the case this is actually it and it goes here and here each that a son of your shell now I was explaining the intermediate Spragg assembly or diode this is what I was talking about where you have a roller and a spring and then you have the can blow like that the early models you have this cam goes here and then you would have a smooth outer race and you would have something similar to this low reverse flex assembly which that would be the intermediate roller assembly this is our over our low group or a planetary gear assembly we all want to check your clearances on the pinions make sure that they're not chipped or scored the motor learns bad rice right here make sure this is nice and smooth here's our low reverse band it applies in manual low and it applies in Reverse going to show you what's in here this is where the no reverse servo applies the band and he homes the planetary stationary this is this is a brake band right I'm going to get a little bit closer here and I'm going to show you at the apply point here see that this band is worn-out even though it looks nice and red here you might be tempted to reuse it it might work but it is almost to the metal if you can see the friction here the friction on the let me see if I can get this to here you can see the friction and and the steel and at the tip you're almost at the steel with almost no friction and here you have maybe like a sixteenth of an inch of friction material still on the band and not only there but where it actors in the case you can see that where as well so this band needs to be replaced in Spanish no good this is our third gear drum there's another bearing third hub assembly to the very let's go ahead and take the drill for take snap ring off and as you can see here all the fridges are in good shape so basically our reverse same foot frictions are good our intermediate frictions are good our third gear britches are good that's about it in overdrive bad bowl reverb and the forward clutch drum is no good we're going to need for hardcore this is a hard work this is also considered a hard part so you get quoted for soft part over whole this is not included this nicely and this is not accrue just let you know and ring gear assembly one early model we used to have about six holes right here on the ring here the reindeers they're not interchangeable for all four and up two oh three and down if you do interchange them you're going to have a lot of problems if you use this Oh far enough on an early model you can see here the parking here here has been extended and it's been extended because they increased the frequency for the output shaft to speed so the computer calibration is a little bit different in the earlier model on the early models you have the parking here up to here only this would be smooth and you would have some holes drilled on the ring here itself the frequency was slower you would have six or eight holes for one revolution depending on I forgot how many holes has got but it's like two either six or eight and here you can see I mean compared to that that's three times as much if you use this ring here in an early model you're going to be in overdrive at twenty miles an hour and you don't want that there you have it remove one more very you always want to check the case as well for where I'm going to flip it over here then explain why you have three sealing rings here a bushing right here drive shaft goes in here the tail housing has the bushing as well this being a four by four I doubt it is going to be wore out but a two-wheel drives sometimes the u-joint go bad and extension housing bushing gets damaged because of the u-joint this starts wobbling around like that and you create some wear wear this ring right which is right here you can see three shiny lines there that's considered normal as long as you cross your fingernail to it if it doesn't have no grooves it is just shiny that's normal that's where the green sealing rings are working that's considered normal well there we have it 475 blown L forward clutch hub assembly bolt drive and overburn forward friction burnout Sun gear shell Lorne that's it 475 thank you for watching don't forget to like this video and watch my other videos as well like them share them through it along with them and positive positive comments are always appreciated thank you very much and till the next one you you

Channel: Automatic Transmission

Views: 421,022

Keywords: 4R75 transmission, ford f-150, off road, transmission problem, slipping, won't move forward, transmission repair, clutch, 4X4, auto repair

Id: O13wPkw4Y1A

Length: 32min 6sec (1926 seconds)

Published: Mon Sep 03 2012