Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro - Klipper 3D Printer - Overview & Leveling

all right so the Neptune 4 Pro here looks pretty good on the table quite familiar from the last models except with some pretty major upgrades so let's start up here on the top we got the spool holder and mount right here the channel we got a filament detector that swivels around everything's metal here including these brackets we can see our pretty unique channels that says create the future on them on both sides flipping around to the back we can see we have a tethered belt between the two dual lead screws which I really like this because everything is synchronized together we can see the filament wire travel through the channel down and out we got metal for the ends on both sides this is the x-axis motor where it plugs and also the end stop switch we got this pretty cool Parts cooling fan which is external it's got an on andof switch here and then the power cable and it is quite smart as it is regulated by the main board and it does blow right underneath the nozzle here we can kind of see the back of the hot end and the metal rollers with the metal strain relief bracket that holds this cable here and I kind of installed this going here because I didn't want it to be too close to the lead Square as I was touching it on these holes so yeah so going down we have the dual motors here on both sides our Y axis motor and then the inst stop switch here the wire coming from the bed which is strained reliefed very nicely and goes into the back here pretty large squishy feet on four corners we do have the power supply back here which we can see that we can switch between 230 and 115 and looks like it is Factory switch to 230 so if you live somewhere where it's 115 you will need to switch that and we can do that with the provided flat screwdriver that was included and yeah just make sure you're at the correct voltage before you power it on so moving this way see we got our power input Port it is fused with an on and off switch our cable management is very nice for this main cable going up so going back to the front here right on the top we can see the relief bracket then here we have the input for the filament and this is the extruder arm to release it got a little gear here that we can see when the filament's flowing very nice and go down here we can see blower fan for the parts cooling on both sides and behind here we can kind of see the induction sensor and underneath we got the heat block which is silicone socked with the nozzle and also we got a little light here and you guys can see where the fan blows out here on both sides also this little hole here is where you can adjust the tension on the extruder so going this way we have the x-axis in stop switch metal rolled rails adjustment for the belt here going down to the bed we do have a 225x 225x 2 65 build volume and the build plate itself is a textured Pei sheet which does pop off it is magnetic and it's flexible and it's just a chrome finish on the other side but yeah I love these beds they work great underneath that we got the magnetic mat and then our heated aluminum bed which is not insulated and for this size it's not a big deal the frame seems to be pretty thick and straight and then we got quality Springs with adjuster knobs that are good size and here in the very front we got our adjustment for the belt on the y- axis over here we have the manufacturing label pretty clean going here unfortunately no storage anywhere but right under here you guys can see we got our micro SD port and it is kind of hard to get to sort of cuz it's right underneath this but you're probably going to mostly use the USB drive anyway and we also have a USB type-c connection here and at the very end we got our port for the screen which I really like about eligo as they have these removable screens they're still a little large and the bezels are a little big I wish they'd make them a little smaller and nicer looking but still for what you get this is awesome and they just magnetize to the Cradle here and you can pick it up look at it and then put it down and there is a sticker here that reminds us to check our voltage which we did already so let's go ahead and peel the screen protector off so going from the screen this way you can see we have an ethernet port and that's going to be if you want to connect your printer to your router and have access through it through a web portal which there is quite a few features especially this being a Clipper printer so yeah overall a pretty feature packed printer put this bed back on I wish there was something to butt against as it's kind of hard to line it up perfectly every time but yeah I mean the pro here definitely brings some really cool things like these metal rails with metal rollers on the X and Y which would really give us more precision and longer life overall so for next part I'm going to plug it in we'll power it on preheat it check make sure everything works and level the bed all right so I got the printer plugged in let's go ahead and powered on I can hear the fans we got the logo here on the display and there there we go so it took about 30 seconds or so to start up um the first thing I'm going to do is go to settings and turn down the brightness under Advan settings here so I can film The Screen a little better and you guys can see here we can also turn on and off the key sounds so what's great about eligo is that they're able to integrate the Clipper software seamlessly into their design if you use the eligo printer before this is very intuitive and easy to understand so here on the main menu we can see we got print prepare settings level and our temperature and location parameters there so let's go ahead and click on prepare and we'll click home all in the middle and we'll see make sure everything works so Z went up x y and now coming down and looks like that's working also down here we can see it says temp I'm going to click on that and now we're going to preheat everything and I'm just going to click on ABS here and it's going to start preheating 240 on the nozzle and 80 on the bed and if we go back to the main menu we can see here that our nozzle and bed are rising in temperature so yeah looks like everything is working which is perfect so for the next part let's go ahead and do the bed leveling and we're going to click on the level here it's asking us to confirm it's going to move into position and here we get a new menu that shows us the offset and then we got a couple choices of auxiliary and automatic so the first thing we want to do is do the auxiliary leveling which is going to be the manual one with these knobs and then we'll click on automatic can finish that so let's click on auxiliary it kind of explains to you how to do it I'm going to click confirm and you guys can see we got 1 2 3 4 5 Points we can click on on the bed to get the nozzle to go there so you're going to need some kind of piece of paper I'm just using this little posty note and so what we're going to do is click on one and then 2 3 4 and just keep going around until it's pretty much perfect so I'm going to click on one so we're going to stick our little paper between the nozzle and the bed and I can see already that it's too tight so yeah essentially what we're doing here is doing manual bed leveling and what we're trying to do is get some friction in the paper between the nozzle and the bed so we go to two again it's too close and this one's actually completely loose in the back so yeah this is why it's quite important to go ahead and do the step and not just start printing all right that feels pretty good go to three this one's too loose there we go now we go to four and this one's too tight so yeah they're all going to be a little different so since we had to adjust them kind of a lot we definitely need to go around again so I would recommend at least three times so let's go ahead and keep clicking all around so we're back to one now the reason this is kind of important is the closer you get it the less compensation the automatic bed leveling has to do and the better first layer you're going to have so so yeah since we started adjusting the bed kind of moved around and so now everything needs to be adjusted again this is again why it's important to keep adjusting it a few times around all right so we're starting to get really close as every feels pretty good it just needs to be slightly slightly tuned so that means we're Ultra close and you know if you go at least three times it should get you there but I just keep going around until everything feels the same and it's such a tiny slight adjustment at this point so yeah we're pretty much there and we can go ahead and hit the home button in the middle and see what our home feels like so mine is just a little bit loose which is okay because the outer bed leveling will compensate for any kind of dips or Heights in the bill plate all right so now we're going to go back and it's actually going to prompt us to do outof bed leveling which is pretty cool so we're going to confirm you don't get this prompt just go back and click on auto leveling so yeah we're going to confirm to do out of bed leveling so this is going to take a little while as there's a few points to go through but yeah it's just going to go around the bill plate and probe it and take measurements and then when it's printing it's going to offset that as it's putting the first layer down and I don't know if you guys can see but there's a total of 36 six points that it's going to take so all right and that's all 36 points so now it's going to set up so we can do our offset and also down here you guys can see what our variations are between the different points of the bed and everything is looking really good nothing is more than .14 looks like and .16 and that corner is a little bit low but that's okay it's still very close tolerance so we're going to grab our little posty note now and go underneath the nozzle and we're going to check and see if we need to set the offset any and looks like we do and we need to go down a little bit so we're going to choose the increments that we want to go down so I'm just going to go very slowly at 01 if you're much higher up you might want to go 0.1 mm so let's go ahead and go down slowly and actually I think I'm a little higher so I'm going to go .1 mm at a time there we go it's grabbed it back to 01 now I'm going to go up because now it's a little too tight and we're starting to be pretty much perfect I think yep that does feel really good so you want the same drag that you kind of did all around so just the papers with some slight drag so our offset ended up being minus 1.750 so yours is going to be different every printer is different and this is why you calibrate it to each one so once you do all this you're pretty much done and all you got to do is click the back button and it's going to save everything so we're going to confirm the save and we go back to the main menu

Channel: Just Print

Views: 10,322

Keywords: 3D Printer, 3D Printing, Just Print, Just Vlad, 3d printer, 3d printing, neptune 4, neptune 4 pro, elegoo neptune 4, elegoo neptune, 3d printed, 3d print, best 3d printer, best 3d printer 2023, 3d printing for beginners, 3d printer review, elegoo neptune 4 pro, 3d printing time lapse, high speed 3d printing, 3d printer in action, high speed 3d printer, direct drive, klipper firmware, elegoo neptune 4 pro review, best 3d printer for beginners, 3d printer time lapse

Id: PZB2_m2Hb54

Length: 10min 2sec (602 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 29 2023