Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus - 3D Printer - Unbox & Setup

hey guys in this video we're going to be checking out the elegu Neptune 3 plus so this is quite a large 3D printer and if it's anything like the Neptune 3 Pro I think this thing's going to be awesome so in this video we're going to unbox it set it up and do some prints hopefully you guys enjoy it let's get started foreign foreign [Music] all right so this is the Neptune 3 plus and the box that it comes in is very large in this Dimension here which is about 28 inches and 24 inches deep and about 10 inches tall and the shipping label says 16 kilograms which is about 30 45 pounds so on the box we got a picture of what it looks like the name here and not too much more to see so let's go ahead and open it up and so we are packed with this dark soft foam and this is what we see on top so because everything's so large I'm gonna go ahead and pull the layers out and go through them one by one and hopefully you'll be able to see a little better here how everything is packed so right on top we have this notice for use and it kind of goes over the more important things that need to be installed and adjusted and also bed leveling and we'll go through all this in the video we got the user manual the machine parameters all the parts that are included and step-by-step instructions on how to put it together adjust it bed leveling and also using the software all right so we got quite a few things on top I'm just going to pull them out one by one so this looks like the screen holder and it is magnetic we got our power cord which is US type and it looks like about four feet our spool holder which consists of two pieces and this is a top mount and this piece here just threads into the main part so yeah it could go on one side or the other and here we have a bag with lots of parts in there and we'll go through this in a second so there's a lot of little pieces of foam and on the side here we have the two rods and these are going to stabilize the top of the Gantry which is really nice especially for this large format and now we can pull out our Gantry which is the upper portion of the printer and this is definitely a pretty large piece go ahead and get this out of the way and you guys can see we have dual z-axis motors two rods and they are tethered here on top with this belt which is really nice to see we got four rollers on the hot end it is a direct drive extruder that's built in all in one very nice and you guys can see the design here we got some wording that says create the future and very nice clean channels everywhere with this kind of blue color I definitely love the look so we're going to go a little more detail later let's go ahead and go to the bottom layer which is going to be the base again lots of foam and actually we do have our screen there that was tucked away there on the edge and it's a pretty nice portable touch screen display which is about 4.3 inches looks like and it does have a cable that unplugs which is pretty cool because you know you could replace this if you needed to and it does stretch which will make it easy to use it yeah I really like the screen as the Pearl also has this and it works really good so on the base you guys can see we have a very large build plate and it is the Pei sheet that is flexible so it's a metal sheet with a Pei finish on top and this works very well and it's definitely the best of all worlds as it is removable it's flexible so you can pop larger prints off a lot easier and also the Pei sticks very well when it's hot and then the prints pop off quite easy when it cools off so I'm going to move this away separately because we don't want to touch it with our greasy hands and we'll go ahead and pull the base out and wow this thing is quite large and got a good weight to it so yeah very nice looking quite thin on the profile and got a pretty interesting finish here all around so we're going to take a closer look at all the details after we assemble everything so let's go ahead and move this away and that is everything for the packaging and as you guys saw everything is packed very well so let's go ahead and bring our base back in I'm going to flip it around very carefully here and what I want to do next is take this cover off the bottom so we can see what's underneath so I can already see there's a fan here and some venting we got our motor here for the y-axis and pretty large squishy rubber feet on four corners and so we're going to need an allen wrench to take all these little bolts out so let's go ahead and go through this bag and see what's in here so we get a little roll of pla sample filament yeah this is pretty small but I guess good to have it you know for a little test so here's something important this is our filament detector that we'll have to install we also get some snippers and these are nice to cut filament on an angle we also get this spatula here that could be useful we got a USB cable to connect from the printer to the computer some zip ties a clean out needle and this is for the nozzle if it gets clogged it looks like some spare parts like couple nozzles a PTFE tubing and also a USB adapter with micro SD card in there and here we have a bag that has all of our Hardware to put the printer together and most importantly our tools that consist of a couple open-ended wrenches a Phillips and flat screwdrivers and a set of Allen wrenches so let's grab the one we need and remove all these little silver bolts on the bottom plate all right so I finally got all the screws out and let's go ahead and raise this thing up and we do have a fan here connected and we can actually unplug it and we'll set this to the side all right and this is what we see underneath so yeah everything's laid out pretty well all the wires are routed nicely so this is our main board and it is the znp robin Nano DW version 2.2 we do have an arm processor the stepper drivers are integrated and they are heatsinked everything is hot glued and all the wires are nicely crimped and everything looks great so going to our power supply it is 500 watt 24 volt which is pretty powerful and this is our input from the AC and then output to this thing regulator of some sort and then it goes out to the bed so yeah again all the connections look good and nicely crimped this is our y motor here and our power input comes here from the side so everything is metal under here we also have these support channels I go across and yeah everything quite heavy duty so I'm going to go ahead and put the lid back on we'll flip it around and start the assembly all right so the first step in the manual we're going to connect the upper portion to the base and there are two screws on each side four total and they are M5 45s so let's grab a little baggie with hardware and here we can see every part is labeled and these are what we're looking for and they are the four long black bolts so if we look at the base you can see there's like a little cut out here on the side and it's like that on both sides and the Gantry will sit here then the bolts will go through the bottom so I'm going to grab a spool and set it underneath the printer kind of hold it up so we can reach underneath I'm not sure how well this angle is guys but I think you get the point here so we're going to grab the upper portion and with the lettering to the front we're going to set it over right into these grooves here so and it kind of sits there on its own you do have to hold it someone has it is quite tall and unstable but yeah we're just going to run the bolts down from the bottom into this channel here but yeah I'm just going to run these down now and also you can go off the edge of the table that might make things a little easier also so whatever way you got to do it just run these down but don't tighten them yet as we do do have to start the other side let's flip it around and do the same thing on this side so don't tighten this side either and the reason for that what we want to do is bring the x-axis down to the bottom and the reason for that is because we want the spacing here to be as close as possible where this is going to spend most of its time so you can just turn the coupler or you can use the belt up here to go faster and just turn that and so we're going all the way down and now we can tighten these bolts underneath and that'll kind of solidify the distance between the two channels and where they need to be so yeah this might be you know a little bit of a overkill on the detail but you know every little bit helps if you get it all pretty close you're gonna have really accurate motions in all the axes we want to Snug this up reasonably well to the other side and tighten this up and that's how you install the upper portion through the base so for step two we're going to be installing the screen holder to the side of the printer and we're going to need three m420 bolts and that's these guys right here on the bracket on the back we can see there's three holes and that's where these bolts will go through into the side of the channel on the right side if you're looking at it and maybe you guys can see the holes there with the threads I'm going to start a bolt and obviously with the slip going down I'm going to install it here on the side so there is a magnet here on the holder so it kind of fights with you a little bit but it's not that big of a deal I guess she tries to grab the wrench for me but yeah we're just going to tighten up these three bolts and I'm going to Snug them up just a little bit don't go too tight but yeah simple as that the holder is on so let's flip this to the front and now for step three we're just going to install the screen on the holder and plug it in so the screen is pretty large you can see it in my hand and we have looks like some kind of magnetizing section here and then the wire that plugs in into it and the other end goes into the printer so yeah the screen will literally say here and it magnetizes and we're going to plug that right here on the front just like that so pretty simple so for step four there's quite a few things going on here we're going to install the spool holder on top then also the filament detector onto the spool holder and also there's a little wire holder bracket that we got to install on the back but we're going to do that when we plug everything in so we're at the very top and there's a little wire here that comes out this is for the detector and I'm not sure you guys can see but inside the channel there's a couple sliding nuts see if I can tilt this a little bit over there we go so we're gonna have to line that up with this pool holder like this and the bolts we need are m418 two of them and so you're gonna kind of have to eyeball it but it shouldn't be too bad as when you start one you could still move it around and hit the other one there we go so yeah not difficult at all now to be centered you might want to offset a bit but if you do then your wire is not going to reach the detector probably so yeah maybe we'll just kind of go to the side like this and the spool holder part is actually on the wrong way it needs to go the other way and the reason for that is because the detectors on this side and you guys can see how that's not very centered now at all it's more to that side so let's grab the detector and there's a bolt in there and this is what it looks like I like how they put brass fittings at the end as it won't wear out and this is where it plugs in so this part swivels around so all we got to do is install this bracket here with this bolt onto the side of the spool holder and if I turn it you guys probably can see here there's another brass threading there that the bracket will install into so yeah again pretty straightforward here with the installations and once we tighten it pretty snugly this can all move around so now we can plug it in just like that and there we go so this appears to be about right where it needs to be and so I think we'll leave it right here all right so for the next part we're going to be installing the support braces on the back we're going to have M48 bolts on the top and m420s on the bottom also with a washer and so these are the rods they're pretty lightweight and each end has like this little eye bolt that our bolt will go through and also a nut and it is threaded and they're both the same on each side so you will need to break the nut loose so we can adjust it so we're just going to untighten it and now we can spin this around and we're going to do that on both sides and so the way this mounts is there's a thread in here in the frame that this will go to and then the other side goes here on this little frame piece here outside of it like this and this is the packet that has all of our Hardware two smaller bolts and two larger ones and a couple washers so the small one will go on top I'm gonna go ahead and start it and then our larger bolt in the washer to demonstrate here will go like this the bolt first and then the washer and then this against the frame so the washer is there to kind of fill in the gaps that are in the frame so yeah bolts washer and then into the frame now this part might get a little tricky because you might need to go a little bit shorter or longer which you can adjust it and it might be smarter to do the bottom first than the top but either way you got to do it that's how it all goes together so mine actually was lined up pretty close so I'm pretty happy there and so what I'm going to do now is tighten the two bolts now make sure when you do tighten this that your Rod is not under stress meaning like you don't want to pull one side down or something like it has to line up pretty much perfect so if you have to you know adjust it where it's completely neutral and happy and then tighten it and then after that we can tighten these nuts to lock it all in I'm going to tighten that one and then the bottom and that's how these rods go on so now I'm going to do the other side foreign last step which is six we're just going to connect all of the wiring so we're looking here from the back on this corner and there's a bunch of things that need to be plugged in here so there's a couple wires coming down from the top they are the filament detector and the LED light and that's these two wires here and then the large plug here plugs into the z-axis motor so we'll plug that in and then we'll plug in the filament detector which is the black one and the LED which is the red and black so yeah pretty simple there we got a pretty large ribbon cable here coming from the bottom up about Midway we got two wires which says X on them a larger one and a smaller one the larger one is going to go to the motor which is right here and the smaller one is going to go to the end stop switch so let's go ahead and plug those in and then stop switches on this side here so now we have the rest of the wire and on the end of that we have the plug that plugs into the hot end this should go right here through this brace and the back of the channel and this is where we're going to install this wire bracket that goes right here the way you do it is you just kind of pinch this and you put the holder right through it like this and without pinching the wire where it's loose you can actually move it so for some odd reason I already had a bolt in there I'm going to remove that and use the one that came with the bracket yeah just like that routes the wire very nicely and then this part here goes to the front and we're going to plug it in right here and there's a couple tabs that we got to open up on the hot end and then plug it in and also there's a relief bracket here which you can go ahead and go into first or you can plug it and then go into it but I think it would be easier to go ahead and plug it first so let's plug it in and then these clips will kind of bite around it and now we can squeeze the flat wire into the relief bracket just like that and so if we go to this side all the way we can see we have enough cable here and if you need a little more you can pull on it or if you need less you can push it back so so there is one more wire or cable that we need to plug in is going to be the other z-axis here on this other side and that's it right there so yeah let's go ahead and pull this foam out of the build plate and as simple as that everything is plugged in and assembled so for the next part we need to check a few things and adjust them and we're going to start here with the build plate so this might be easier to do it before you build it all but essentially what we're doing here I'm going to raise this up just a little bit so we can see a little better is we're checking the rollers underneath the bed the way this printer runs is there's two channels here and there's three wheels on each side of the bed that run around it and so there's three stationeries and three adjustables and so what we need to do move that screen out of the way and lift this up maybe you guys will see a little better here but yeah we have one two three rollers and two of them on this side are adjustable and the center one is not and then the center one on the other side is adjustable in the two are not so it's a little tricky but not that bad because all we got to do is just go under there and spin the roller so if it's too loose that means it needs to be tight the back one is definitely loose the middle one is actually decent and the front one is also completely loose so let's go ahead and start with tightening the very back one and this is the wrench we use we're just going to turn that eccentric nut in there and so the amount you want it to be tight is where the roller has enough friction on it while you spin it in one spot take a little burnout so if it's too loose the bed will probably wobble and if it's too tight it'll wear out the roller so what you're looking for is just kind of like a slight drag but that's actually pretty decent let's check the middle one again so the middle one is good too now we're going to go to the front one here and it's too loose so let's tighten that just a little bit and that's a lot better now and it feels like they're all pretty good so and the bed moves around really smooth and it doesn't wobble so I think it's still a little bit too loose especially here on the back when I'm going to tighten it up just a little bit and so the way you want to tighten this side that has the two is where the middle one will also grab because if you tighten them too much both of them the middle one will just be loose since this one's not adjustable so that's the tricky part a little bit you kind of have to balance in between the two sides so I'm going to go to the other side we'll kind of roll these around and check and I definitely need to tighten the center one but it's actually quite hard to get to because we have surprisingly one two three adjustable leveling knobs on just the one side so I think what I need to do is to see if I can just pull the whole Knob Off so careful there is a spring in there you don't want to take the nut out completely just the knob and now we can get to our eccentric nut there so yeah those require a little bit of extra work here to get these rollers right but you definitely want to do this because if you don't you're not going to be rolling perfect so yeah now we feel really good on all six rollers and we have no wobble and a smooth traveling so I'm going to put this knob back on and it's not hard to take it off at all just maybe a little tedious as spaces are a little tight in there there we go so we're good there and we're done adjusting the bed now another thing that you might want to check is this belt and we have a knob here up front where we can adjust the tension so it's way too tight here so I'm going to loosen mine a bit and that'll you know relieve some pressure from this belt now because this bed is so large and the belt is long you don't want to make this too loose don't over tighten it either so if you start to hear like notes playing that's way too tight so but yeah this feels pretty good now and I'm pretty happy with the y-axis so let's go to our hot end next and we can see here in the back we've got four rollers they're actually adjusted pretty much perfect so actually maybe not too perfect because this wheel here doesn't want to spin at all it's kind of tight so the one on the bottom are adjustable and these are stationaries yeah this one feels good but this one is a little tight so we're going to loosen that a bit okay that's too much just a little bit and there we go so now all of our wheels are perfectly adjusted as they all have a nice tension to them when you roll them on one spot so that's the key there and we're gonna check make sure everything is smooth and it feels very smooth so if you got any kind of funny stuff going on make sure your wheels are not too tight and also your belt is not too tight or misaligned now you can't really see the belt at all but you do have an adjuster here you can loosen and tighten the belt again my belt was a little tight so I'm going to loosen it just a bit and be careful trying to tighten it without feeling it because here you can't tell anything but the belt could be getting pretty tight so you don't want to over tighten it yeah that feels really good so we do have rollers here also on the Z plane on both sides and mine are actually perfectly fine they all kind of spin but if you do need to adjust yours say they're binding or they're way too loose the adjustments are here on these inside wheels and the outside too are just stationed here now don't worry too much if it's not perfect because the Z travels very slowly and also we do have dual Z screws so you know everything is very well controlled up and down and sometimes you can't get all this perfect anyway so if it's close just leave it the way it is then you should be good and and with that we are done putting the printer together and adjusting it all all right so let's take a closer look at the elegu Neptune 3 plus so this is a pretty large printer as you guys can see it takes quite a bit of room it pretty much takes my whole table and also very tall and so measuring it out here we got about 23 24 inches deep and about 24 inches wide and with the spool on you'd probably need 33 34. so yeah very large printer so make sure you have the room for it alright so let's start here on the top so we got the spool holder we mounted it here on these two bolts our filament detector so the spool will go in here and then the filament through the detector and then out down to the erect Drive extruder hot end assembly so all the channels are very nicely finished they're smooth got the logo there nice graphics on the sides we got metal brackets on top and for the lead screws there's also bearings very nicely constructed this is our brace here that we installed so flipping around looking from the back you guys can see we have our synchronizing belt between the two leads the wiring from the detector goes right here and also under the channel we have lighting so going down our ends on the X rail here are all metal on both sides this is where our cable bracket that we installed connects very nice and organized the hot end from the back side the four wheels you can kind of see the key break there the heat block which has the silicone sock and then our parts cooling fan on both sides so it has two of them that blow underneath also looks like our z-axis sensor here so this is a multi-purpose sensor for the limit on the Z and also for out of bed leveling so going down from there you can see our y-axis channels there's two of them the belt the Y and stop switch and not too much here we got the two motors for the Z on each side this is where we plugged in detector and the LED light are mount for support rods going to the back is pretty clean we've got this cable coming out to the bed and it is strain relieved and not too much going on here and we've got pretty large squish she rubber feet on each corner back around to the front we can see our cable coming in here to the hot end extruder this is where you're going to put in your filament this is to release the extruder arm we got a little gear here that you can see when it's churning this whole piece here is plastic nicely molded we've got a little elugu logo the two cooling fans on both sides and probably in here somewhere we have the parts cooling fan and that's what it looks like underneath well there are a couple little bolts that we can loosen and this whole piece should come out and you guys can kind of see maybe a little better what's inside so we have the extruder motor the whole extruder mechanism there that little bolt you see right there is the tensioner for the extruder got a little board there in the back a bunch of wiring and our sensor here not too much to see and underneath here we can see this is the fan for the parts cooling which is an axial one it's quite large too and then the two parts cooling fans inside the Shroud so yeah very nice build quality and attention to detail all right so this is back and you can get to that little adjusting bolt through this hole here so yeah if we go to this side we got the end stop switch and then our motor here for the x-axis it's all enclosed and this is where it plugs in here so I wish there was a little cutout somewhere where you can see if our belt is running true on the gear and going to the other side same thing it's all enclosed this is our tensioner here for the belt again I wish there was a little cutout but yeah as long as this feels smooth it should be fine all right so going down from there we have the main attraction here which is this build plate and it's huge so it's 320 by 320 and 400 tall so you can print quite large projects on here so this is a Pei sheet which is awesome to see that it's here so these work great and it is a steel sheet that's magnetic got a little logo here and a tab to grab it and it comes off quite easy it is like a reflective material on the other side and it magnetizes through the main bit which is magnetic so really happy with this the only thing maybe I wish is that there were some kind of brackets in the back where it's easier to line it up and put it down because it's so big and it's hard to hit it just right on the bed itself so going below that we've got the two rails like we saw the belt here it adjusts here again you cannot see nothing it's all enclosed you can kind of peek here through the front and see the gear also on the back there you can see it yeah it seems to be okay overall and you can adjust the tension here on how much tightness you have so looking underneath you guys can see we have three adjustable knobs on each side which is kind of crazy and we also have three rollers on each side of the channels here so our heating platform is the aluminum and below that we don't have any insulation which I'm a little surprised to see for how large this build plate is it seems like it should have insulation yeah the frame itself I don't know if you guys can tell it's very thick so I think much thicker than usual at least what it looks like to Me overall seems like a really good design and everything is very sturdy and so on this corner here we have the manufacturing label that gives us more information about the printer which by the way weighs 14.2 kilograms and also that's the machine size there in millimeters so from there going to the front we just have a clean fascia here and then we have a USB port here to connect to the computer micro SD card slot the plug for our screen and the screen itself which sits in this magnetic cradle is very nice you can just grab it use it and put it down the screen itself is quite bulky let's go ahead and take this protector off I wish the bezels were a little smaller but it's still pretty nice and should be quite useful being portable like that so underneath you guys can see the three bolts we installed it to the side and going to the back we have our power button on and off it is fused and our power input port for the AC cord and going this way we don't have too much here except our cable coming out there and going to the top now the only thing I've noticed that I wish it would have had which is some kind of storage because there's nothing here and nothing anywhere else so I'm not sure if the way the design was made that that was not possible or what but yeah I feel like it would have been great if it would have had some kind of storage bin somewhere but yeah other than that seems like a really nice printer so for the next part let's go ahead and plug it in power it on preheat the machine hold it and level the bed all right so I got the cord plugged in go ahead and hit the power button and it boots up and there it goes so it did take a few seconds there but not too bad so we're going to go over the menu in a bit let's go ahead and click on prepare all home so we can see the printer homing so we got the X the Y and the Z coming down all right so if we click on temp we have hot buttons to preheat let's click PLA and it's going to preheat the nozzle to 200 and 50 on the bed and the fans just kicked in and it's actually a little bit louder than I would like because they're pretty pronounced so I'm going to go to settings and go to Advanced and yeah I was hoping to have this adjustment for the lighting because it seems a little bright for the video so I'm going to turn it down here now be careful not to turn it down all the way as it completely disappears and turns black so I think this is pretty good here and we can see here right on the home page our nozzles pretty much at the temperature and the bed's there too so pretty heated pretty quick and it's hot wow that was much quicker than I thought it must be because of the high wattage power supply all right so for the next part we're going to do bed leveling and this kind of helps you out here to do it right but I think the first thing we need to do is run these Springs down or these knobs on the bed so what you want to do is compress the Springs about halfway on all of them and there's three on each side and the reason you want to do this is because you want to have a good base to go off of up and down so when you're compressed about halfway you know you can go a little up or a little down and now we're going to hit the level button confirm it looks like it's homing again and so here we have another menu which gives us an offset and we're minus one right now then we got manual and measure and then below that we've got all of the parameters which I think there's 49 of them where probes the bed so because this bed adjusts we need to go to the manual first so let's click on that so it's telling us we're going to need to adjust the distance with a piece of paper and now it gives us the areas that we can go to by clicking on the number so let's go to number one first and we're going to grab this paper here as the Gap and we're pretty low on this side so let's go ahead and go up and there we go starts to catch so let's go to two which is the one right behind it there we go now three so this one actually is too loose so we need to tighten this one up more now we'll go to four which is this corner here I guess I meant this one in the back there we go five and six and then in the middle we got home and it's telling me that it's complete but I know it's not because I need to go over it again so click on cancel and do it again and we'll go back to one sure enough I'm still loose here and then yeah we're just gonna do the same thing over again and you're gonna do this as many times as you need until you get it pretty close so the closer you get it the less the auto bed leveling will have to compensate so it does have a lot of points that it measures but if you get it close it's going to be easier and better for the machine to offset very small amounts compared to large ones and if they're too large it could have some printing issues too so yeah get it as close as you can and by the way you can click the same button again to go back to that step so yeah once you're done that's when you click the middle one which is home and another reason you want to go around a few times at least three is because once you change one side other sides kind of change too so it's quite dramatic on such a large surface all right I think that's pretty good it all feels the same all around so I'm gonna go home me and it's a little tighter but we can set the offset in the offsets later so so we're going to confirm that we're done with that and now it's going to do the out of bed leveling which is a lot of points there as you can see and it's preheating right now all right there he goes all right so now it's taking a measurement double tapping and we can see here that we're on number three out of 49 which you can barely see that number there but yeah a lot of points that it needs to take very nice to see because the more it takes the more accurate it'll be on every piece of the bed well I guess it's only taking one probe at it not two so just goes one time then moves to the next one all right so we're about halfway in and you guys can see it's making good progress so yeah I'm glad it's only taking one point because it will take probably forever if it did a double Pro all right so we got all our offsets and here we have a note that says to pay attention to the Gap and you can do the offset in the z-axis offset so let's click on confirm and this right here where you see minus one is our offset so let's go ahead and bring our paper in and it's a little bit tight so we're going to go up a bit and you can choose the increments right there so it's on point one right now so let's go up 0.1 and now it's too loose let's choose the point zero one increment and go down slowly until we feel some drag all right that feels pretty good and yeah we only needed .02 to have the perfect offset so once you set that you're pretty much done you don't have to do anything else as it remembers all these parameters and all those numbers there are offsets on the build plate so you guys can see we're not so perfect but it is a large plate we're about 0.5 at the most off here and there which is quite a bit but you know something this large it's quite impossible to get it extremely perfect so this is why it's kind of important to get it as close as possible manual so yeah once you're done just going to go back it takes you to the main menu and actually it's going to looks like raise up also confirming that you are finished with that all right so let's take a quick look at the screen so up here we see it says Neptune 3 plus and we got four buttons to choose from prints prepare settings and level and down here we have the nozzle temperature and the bed temperature so on print it's going to read the SD card and it tells us to plug that in so once we do it'll show what's on there under prepare we got move and this is the three choices you've got so you can see how you can home everything in the middle like we did earlier or each axis we also have stepper release or you can move each axis separately by clicking this under temperature you got our nozzle and if you click on it you can type in what you want you also have our power button here to turn it off completely then our bed temperature and this is the current stats and then we got four hot buttons for preheating which is a pla abs ptg and TPU so let's click on pla again so it stays at that temperature and then we have extruder button here you can use this to load and unload the filament in and out if you want but you know since this is direct drive this is probably not going to be used as much but yeah let's go back we have settings here which we have quite a few things here to go through we've got languages and these are all that are available temperature settings so you can preset everything here light control so this printer does have a light if I turn it on probably you guys see that we're going to leave that off for now as it will mess with our filming fan control so this turns on the fan the parts cooling let me turn that off motor off releases steppers filament detector is on and you can turn it off here then we got factory setting about the machine so let's click on about and we can see here the name the version the build volume and advanced settings we've got that brightness adjustment which we did earlier and I turned it down a lot for the camera you can turn off the sounds if you don't want the little peep sound but I think I would prefer that motor settings speed settings and resume printing is on so I'm glad to see that they have an option to turn this off because usually in spiralize mode you need this off because it won't print it right so yeah very happy to see that but yeah that's pretty much it guys for the settings and then we have the level button which we went through just a minute ago so yeah pretty intuitive and nice display and very responsive alright so we're pretty much ready to print we got the bed all leveled and adjusted so let's go ahead and put some filament in and I'm going to use my own roll here so we'll use the snippers to cut the filament on an angle so it feeds in easier so if we look here on the top we got this pool holder which the filament will sit in and then we're gonna run here through the filament detector and I don't know if you guys can see but there's a little light that comes on and then down to our extruder and so there's an arm here that we push on to release and now we can push our filament through so kind of wiggle it around to go in and then we can manually just push down and Purge it now you can't do it here on the screen but it's much easier to do that it's such a short distance here to push it down and it's quite convenient and you guys can see we're nice and pursed I'm going to grab that out of the way and we'll get our micro SD card out of the USB adapter and it is an 8 gig and it plugs in right here upside down so now we can click on print it looks like we have one file in there called Buddha so let's click on that and it's going to ask us to print this model we're going to confirm and there we go it started and this is the printing screen that we get and there's even a little preview there so it is preheating to 60 which is almost there and there it goes so I'm going to click on settings here and click adjust just in case we need to do the offset all right and it looks good except for we got a little booger there if I can cut it off real quick there we go but yeah it was perfect and no adjustment needed so yeah if you do it right there should be no issue at all and it's printing away pretty quick so let's go ahead and take a closer look here our printing screen so we've got the file name there with the preview we got settings pause stop and then the LED light under the preview picture we got the progress bar and the percentage it's one percent right now the time since we started just two minutes and our z-axis position it's at point two right now the nozzle temperature and the target the bed temperature and the target the print speed and the fan which is completely off right now and that's for the parts cooling so naturally if you click on pause or stop that's what it'll do and the LED light turns on the light as you guys see that's pretty bright it's a little bit on the cooler side but still very nice so let's go to settings so while you're printing these are the things that you can do so you can adjust the nozzle temperature and these are the increments you can also load and unload filament so down here we can see the three choices we're in the filament so if you wanted to change your filament you can do that and also adjust your hot end and bed temperatures we got speed you know you can speed up the whole process or slow it down and then adjust is going to be our offset and you guys see our minus 0.98 is there you can also turn on our filament detector and our LED light from here and what's cool is we also have resume printing option right here in the menu so yeah if you're going to do spiralized you want to turn that off so yeah that's pretty much it guys and if we go back that's the main menu here see overall I really like the setup it's quite convenient in all the main and basic things you need are here all right so far everything was looking really good and we definitely do have silent steppers as it is pretty quiet the only time I can kind of hear is when it's moving fast but let me go ahead and bring my mic in so you guys can hear it so yeah overall not too bad the fans are a little bit intrusive but nothing too crazy so yeah I would say it's moderately quiet all right so our first print is going very well and we're gonna let it print out and we'll see how it turns out all right so our first print is done and it took one hour and nine minutes pretty quick so we got a choice of return or print again and click return and that goes back to the main menu so the bed is completely cooled off let's see how easy it comes off I'm stuck on there pretty well but it does pop off and we still got the brim on there but yeah it comes off really easy and that's what's great about this Pei is it's pretty effortless as when it Heats it sticks so good and then when it cools off it's quite easy to pop it off and this is what our first print looks like so it looks like a little buddha here the bottom looks great that's the texture of the build plate so overall it's very smooth as you guys can see and very precise so since we didn't slice this I'm not sure about the parameters it does look like a 0.2 layer height and it printed all in an hour so pretty quickly and yeah it looks very good on our first print here that came with the machine so yeah guys as you can see everything works perfect and we're getting great results right off the bat so that shows us that everything's adjusted well and we're good to go with more printing so let's go to the computer next and slice our own files and we'll see how those turn out all right so here we are at the computer and I got the SD card plugged in let's go ahead and open it up so this is what we see we got a user manual in PDF form and so this is pretty much the exact thing you get in paper form there we have our machine parameters so yeah pretty useful if you want to look at this on the computer I'll learn all the parts of the printer and how to use everything so the next folder is software and drivers so we got elegu Kira for back and also Windows also a little PDF here of how to get started and use the slicer and here we have drivers which you might also need and looks like they have them for mac and PC and here kind of shows you what it's for I guess it's connecting with the USB cable through the USB port on the computer so lots of good useful things here with PDFs explaining everything so the next folder there's models and that is the little buddha we printed in STL form and then we also have a tool holder and this explains why there's no tool tray in the printer as it comes with this that you can print out and put your tools in and our last folder is a little video of how to get started and assemble the printer directly from elegu so you might want to watch this to help you out with that then we have the G-Code file that we printed which is the Buddha so let's go ahead and install the software which since I'm using a Mac I'm going to use this DMG file so I'm going to double click it and it brings this up so I'm going to take the lug here and drag it to applications and here you guys can see it's installing and there we go it should be there and then the applications we're going to see the yellow blue Cura let's go ahead and open it up and it's going to load up and this is the start screen so just follow these steps and only take a few minutes let's get started I guess we got to agree to some stuff here so this is 4.8.0 Click next next and you can make an account with ultimaker if you want I'm going to skip it so now we're going to add a printer so we're going to click on non-network printers and we can see here this is customized to elegant and we're going to click on the logo and that's going to open up all of the printers that are available so we have the three plus we'll click on that choose next so it's going to give me some error codes because I have other Kira files that are on the same computer and it kind of messes with them so I'm just going to exit this out but yeah pretty much this is what you'll see which is the build volume and it's like this box let's go ahead and throw something in here and we'll start with the benchy and you guys can see how small it is on this build plate so I'm going to zoom in a little bit so we could see better but if you click on DaVinci you can see these arrows and this is going to pull up this menu here which we're on move right now if you grab the arrows you can move it around or you can do it here by typing it in millimeters we also have scale also you can grab it make it bigger or you can type it in here and rotate you can move the model in either directions on the three axes so that's pretty much the basic controls there but more importantly we're going to go through the parameters here on the top right so right now we're in normal profile we're just going to adjust that so if you click on these little dots make sure you're on Advanced and we're going to go through a few things here so 0.2 layer height is good and if you want more finer resolution you can try point one five point one six so everything in quality looks good so go into shell everything looks right here you want to make sure you have three wall line counts if you don't and bottom layers at least five or six which we have six on the top and bottom here so fill the gaps you can turn that off if you want I usually like nowhere but if you want a more complete print you click everywhere so infill density is at 15 should be fine and the material 200 on the nozzle and 60 on the bed is good print speeds at 60. I usually turn that down to 50 for all my test printing but yeah you can speed it up and slow it down here and on the initial layer speed I like to turn this down to 15 and then skirt and brim to 25. so everything looks good here we're going to enable retractions it's set for two and a half millimeters which is a little high so let's go ahead and do one and a half because I think that should be plenty the retraction speed is at 20 millimeters I guess that's what this printer needs usually it's 40 but you can try either one and see if you get better results and yeah if you get stringing You're Gonna Bump the traction up and if you've got no stringing you can actually go down more maybe even to one millimeter so so everything looks good here cooling is good so under supports if you click it you can set all your parameters for that we're not going to do supports here and build adhesion is on brim but I like to do skirt as brim goes straight to the print and if you're having a hard time sticking brim could be good but skirt just does a few lines around the print and then starts printing the print straight to the build plate and usually I like three lines and also you do have raft but that's time consuming and waste material as it builds a whole raffle underneath the print so going down to special modes we got spiralize mode here so if we click that it's going to do spiralized mode which is a few layers on the bottom and then one layer all the way around like a vase mode and that's pretty much it guys so yeah we should be good to go so all we got to do is click the slice button and it says it's going to take one hour 39 minutes and since we have our SD card plugged in we can save it straight to there by clicking here save to removable and you can also eject it but we're not going to do that yet I'm going to double click clear the build plate and throw in a calibration Cube and we'll slice it exactly the same way and that's going to take 33 minutes so we'll save that also and now we can inject it grab our SD card and print these prints out so yeah hopefully guys this little quick overview was helpful to get you started with the Neptune 3 plus all right so we got the benchy and the calibration Cube printed out and you guys can see how small they are on this bed so yeah pretty excited to print larger models but let's go ahead and see what we got we'll start with this benchy to be honest guys I was quite impressed with it overall and you can see how well the layers went down so yeah for being such a large bed it did good now if we flip here to the y-axis we can see some vibrations and that is going to be because of this really large plate that moves back and forth and also I did have my GoPro hooked up to it but you know that's not terribly too heavy but in any case we still got vibrations here on the y-axis as you guys can see so yeah not perfect but overall pretty good and we can also see these here too it's quite severe which is kind of interesting it's ghosting there so but as far as the print itself it turned out good I was a little bit too close to the bed we do have a little bit of an elephant foot but yeah as far as the walls pretty good great cooling we got the box there with the slit and the top that's nice and round yeah overall a very nice benchy and the Precision seems to be there for sure so yeah let's go ahead and look at this Cube and it's still stuck to the build plate it's completely cold so look at that pops right off and yeah this Pei sheet is excellent so on the cube we're going to be able to see a lot better and let's start with the bottom so yeah we got this finish here we still have a little bit of elephant foot so I need to go up a little more so for some reason my slice prints are a little bit more closer but in any case we can tune that out but let's look at the X here so yeah very nice and the layers do sit very even and if you guys see lines in here it's just all lighting like if I go like this you can see how smooth it is so yeah depending on the lighting is what you're going to see but yeah so very accurate and clean on the X and on the Y also pretty clean but you guys see that we got ghosting so there is some ghosting and some ringing but yeah not severe but it is there kind of like we saw in DaVinci all our Corners are very nice and straight and clean here we have the X wall and the Y wall so on the wall it's much cleaner but you can still see vibrations but yeah pretty good and this is the top which looks perfect so yeah overall great start here with the three plus and I'm gonna go ahead and print a few more smaller models and also larger ones TPU and also we'll try some abs and see if we can push the bed to higher temperatures foreign all right guys so these are all the prints that we printed and there's quite a few of them and I do have to say this printer did very well at everything that I threw at it so we've seen the first three prints here up front and then we got quite a few other ones here all of them were prepared at 0.2 layer height 200 on the nozzle and 60 on the bed except for the ABS but yeah let's go ahead and start with this little frog so this is a pretty fine print and as you guys can see it turned out excellent and yeah the layers went down very smoothly and normally around the paws here things get messy but as you guys can see everything looks very clean and precise shows that the printer is quite capable at smaller fine parts so here we have a squirtle and this is supposed to be I guess squirrel slash Turtle but somehow I sliced it where it's half of its body which is kind of weird but I went ahead and just printed it out when I saw it I was like whatever this is kind of like a polygon print and you guys can see it's all very nice and straight we do have a little bit of vibrations other than that the layers look very nice and if you guys do see lines that's mostly the discoloration in the filament and plus the way the lighting hits the print so pretty good print here so here's a print that's quite important because it shows us that you need accuracy to have something functional and this is a gear that does turn prints out just like this and this printer did an excellent job as it just spins and all you got to do is just hold the middle and then break it loose and it should go and you guys can see this is smooth as it gets so yeah again very impressive with the accuracy on this printer so the next print we got here is a shark yeah it looks really nice you guys can see the layering so again all the layers sit really smooth there's nothing too weird going on and the way this print prints is there's a lot of pieces that connect as it prints up so they all do have to stick and then they combine and you get this articulating kind of really cool print so another thing that's kind of cool about this print is that the mouth is functional and we'll see if we can break it loose and look at that perfect so yeah again this printer is excelling at all of the tests here that we're doing and even all these teeth are perfectly straight which is quite impressive because some printers can't even do that right so here we have something pretty impressive which is a very large millipede and as you guys can see there's a lot of pieces and they're all linked together and check out all those feet that had to stick to the bed so I printed this thing like this pretty much across the whole way and there was no issues whatsoever and the layers went down beautifully and you guys can see the details there and if we look at the face here up close so you guys can see very nice so this filament is not as great as it's some kind of matte filament and it's a little harder to print and this print did take about 10 to 12 hours to print I can't remember exactly but yeah it did take a little while but it is quite large and there's a lot of retractions between the pieces so and speaking of retractions here we have a print called chain mail and this is quite an incredible kind of print work because there's so much retractions guys as you guys can see it turned out perfect now what's incredible is everything stuck to the build plate you can kind of see the Finish there from the bed and we have no stringing yeah you can only imagine how much retractions there is here and this is a super cool print and kind of shows what 3D printers are capable of and I'm usually really impressed from this stuff as it seems like something that would be impossible to print so so yeah if you want to give your printer a challenge try printing this chain mail here so let's check out these wheels here so these are printed in ABS they didn't turn out perfect and that's my fault mostly because I did not preheat the bed hot enough I started at 90 and then printed on 80 which was a mistake because it cooled off too much and started separating really tell but if I put them together you can see they're kind of warped and as it was warping it was kind of having issues but yeah in any case they're still done and probably still usable maybe but these are little drift wheels for an RC car and we did use supports which should just break off let's try that Okay so didn't break off perfect but still pretty good with very minimal cleaning try this other one yeah so about the same so yeah maybe not perfect for abs but it can do it but then again you do have to fine tune the temperatures and the parameters to print certain materials all right that leaves us with the last two models which we have this astronaut and what's unique about this print is that it's printed in a glow filament so if I try to make it dark maybe you guys can see it's kind of green have the recharge it there a bit but yeah it does glow green which gets pretty bright at night in the darkness so yeah very cool filament and what's impressive about this print this is all that sticks to the build plate there's these little ridges here and it's stuck on great and printed out the whole thing with no issues I don't know if you guys can see on this light colored the layering but as you can see it's very smooth and I would say Practically Perfect yeah and actually guys we got two more prints which are both Rockets which I almost missed this one here and this is actually printed in TPU and it is in spiralized mode so we got a few layers on the bottom and then just one layer on the top and you guys can see that it is TPU so yeah pretty cool that you can print TPU even in spiralized mode there was no issues pushes it out just fine as it is a direct drive now one thing I do want to show you guys after you see this really nice clean lines is the very top here hopefully we're in Focus but there's a little bit of blobbing there and this is me turning on the power recovery mode so you do need to turn it off when you do spiralize mode as it will blob up like that so that's me turning it on and then turning it off right away so kind of a hard thing to see but yeah that's one great thing about this printer is it does have the power recovery toggle on and off in the settings and even accessible while you're printing so yeah TPU no problems for this printer and for the last printer we have the rocket plane and I guess it's like a air airplane slash rocket and it is still stuck to the build plate so I think I do need to pry it off so we're gonna take all these guys off hopefully I won't destroy it try and get it off here okay I'm putting a crease in it already but yeah as you guys can see it's stuck really well so let's see how easy it comes off I'm gonna just try to flex it here and look at that it just pops right up and just like that pop right off so yeah I really love this build plate so this is a Pei sheet obviously it's very nice and works great for everything and the filament that I used on this rocking plane is really gummy I don't know if you guys know what I'm talking about sometimes you get like more of a gummy filament and this is one of them where it's kind of stubborn and sticks very well it actually leaves a residue behind which it kind of did here a little bit but it comes right off actually really easily so yeah Pei for the win for sure as far as build plate goes so here we can see the bottom very nice so this is also spiralized mode we got a few layers on the bottom and then one layer all the way to the top and this is 400 millimeters tall the full height that this printer can print and if we look closer here you guys can see how well it did and it's very smooth all the way up so yeah very nice and consistent all the way to the top we do have a little bit of inconsistencies as we go up I can kind of feel them and even the very tip didn't melt which is pretty incredible and this is the back side here you can see it has like a little I guess landing gear so it is a plane that you can land but in any case guys I am pretty impressed with this printer and I think it does very well with everything you throw at it and another thing I need to mention is without having the insulation on the bottom I'm quite impressed of how quickly it gets the temperature and I think the 500 watt power supply has everything to do with that I love the large build volume pretty much conquer anything with 320 by 320 and 400 tall the tether dual z-axe leads are great I love how they included these supports in the back makes it very stable on top this pool holder is quite convenient with the filament detector to the direct drive extruder very handy little LCD screen that's portable the 49 point mesh out of bed leveling works extremely well and is very accurate from one end to the other also the pretty cool LED light here that comes from the top down and it's reasonably quiet overall except for some fan noise so yeah as you can see the printer is very capable and it offers a lot of value with everything thing you get so I think Gallagher did a great job as what they did is just upsized the Neptune Pro and now we have the plus now they do have one more larger than this which is called the max I think and I should be able to get my hands on one soon so yeah that will be quite interesting so if you guys are interested in this printer I'm gonna have some links in the description check it out and if you did enjoy this video then hit that like button also check out the Neptune 3 Pro that I reviewed that printer did very well and also check out my 3D printing playlist I'm sure you'll find something interesting there and if you guys are not subscribed to my new channel called just print where I only do 3D printing check that out and if you did make it to the end I really do appreciate it thumbs up to you and as always thanks for watching and I'll catch you on the next one peace

Channel: Just Vlad

Views: 57,257

Keywords: 3d printing, 3d printer, 3d printed, elegoo neptune 3, elegoo neptune 3 pro, elegoo neptune 3 plus, 3d printing for beginners, neptune 3, best 3d printer, neptune 3 plus 3d printer, best beginner 3d printer, 3d print, beginner 3d printer, elegoo mars, auto bed leveling, top 3d printer, 3d printer review, neptune 3 pro, neptune 3 plus elegoo, neptune 3 plus printer, neptune 3 plus review, neptune 3 plus vs pro

Id: 7mIuj_btevU

Length: 58min 18sec (3498 seconds)

Published: Fri Jan 13 2023