Custom Horizontal Milling Machine Arbor Build

[Music] hello keith rick here at vintage.org guys today i got a little project with me working on the shop actually making a piece of tooling to go with my horizontal milling machine so that i can finish up a job a little bit of backstory i've been working on making some bevel gears for my planer restoration and uh i've been getting ready to do that job for a while and last weekend i came out to the shop went and got my cutter which is a special bevel gear cutter uh to put on an arbor and when i got it to stick over there i realized that the hole inside of this cutter is an inch and a 16 in diameter which is really an oddball size for a horizontal milling cutter usually it's either one inch or you go up to an inch and an eighth i've never seen a cutter with inch and 16. and unfortunately these uh these involute cutters specifically for miter gauges or bevel gears are extremely difficult to find really it's very difficult to find new ones being made today i've got a whole bunch of these in different sizes but they all are number one they're all very old cutters and they all have that same size hole in them so my job today because i can't find a 50 taper inch in 16th diameter arbor because we're going to make one and we're going to be doing that over on the lathe primarily a little bit of melon will be involved in it as well but uh let me uh zoom in here kind of show you what's going on show you what our game plan is and we're going to get over on the metal lathe and start cutting some metal so this happens to be the last involute cutter i use for anything and it is got a one inch hole in it again this one here all of my bevel gears one inch 0.62 and a half so inch and a 16 again oddball size these are some really old cutters made by rm cloud c-l-o-u-g-h out of meridian connecticut i don't even know how old that cutter is but i suspect it's really really old very well made but just an oddball size uh arbor which seems to be common from those days back in the early 1900s for some reason a lot of their shafting were in sixteenths rather than going in you know quarter inches and eight inch they would be in you know 1 16 3 16 5 16 inch diameters never have fully understood why but that's just the way it is so this is a typical milling machine arbor this one happens to be a one inch arbor it's the one that this cutter would fit on and it was the arbor that i tried to put this one on and realized that hey i have a problem so my game plan is is that i've got a end mill holder here this just has a hole in the end this happens to be inch and a quarter i'm going to take this shaft here and basically put it in the 50 taper and we're going to turn this into an arbor that we can mount this cutter on now i could just make a inch and 16 inch shaft the whole way down which would probably be your first inclination however i don't have any bushings that i can put on here these are just spacers basically that slide up on there they capture the cutter in place i don't have any that are inch and 16 and i'm really not interested in making a bunch of them so what i'm going to do is i've got a piece of this it happens to be a piece of inch and a half stock it's left over from a babbitt poor this is actually the the leftover shafting off of the upper wheel on a bandsaw i've been restoring i use this as a mandrel for pouring babbitt which is why i have some black marks on it no big deal we're going to machine all that off this is a piece of stock i'm going to use i'm going to turn about two inches down the end down to inch and a quarter so it'll fit up into my holder we're going to leave the inch and a half i may skim it just so it runs perfectly true but we're going to leave the inch and a half diameter up about what i say five inches i think then i'm going to cut a shoulder in there and we'll make a very small section just wide enough for this cutter to fit on inch and a 16th and then i'm going to go back down to a one inch size for the rest basically from like here out we'll thread it that way i can use the uh the bushings that i have that are already one inch i've also got to put a a bearing block in here that that's inch one inch i don't want to have to make all this stuff for an inch and a 16 inch arbor so i will do this so that if i ever need to use another one of these bevel gear cutters i can go grab this arbor and use it but it'll be pretty much just made for a you know a cutter about that thick and we're just going to go with that that is my game plan i got a little chicken scratch drawing over there of my dimensions and we're going to go over to the metal lathe now and get started uh turning out this new arbor all right i got my piece of shafting over here in the lathe and it won't quite fit through the through hole so it is sticking out just a little bit i think it's going to be stiff enough it's not going to matter i'm going to just start out by getting my lathe in gear here we're going to start by just facing this end next i'm gonna come in here and put a center in the end and uh that'll give me some extra support when i start machining that in down there got a center in there now that'll give me plenty of rigidity out here i'm gonna make a mark at two inches and we're going to turn that down to inch and a quarter i got about 90 thousands to take off of there we'll take 80 off we're in two passes since that last pass was kind of heavy i just dialed in about five foul that would give me a lighter cut and then uh that should be able to dial in from there and be right on the money all right we got fourth out to come off just going to dial that in and now what i'm going to do is uh i'm just gonna turn down just a little bit on this just let's clean it up and what that'll do is give me a surface i can indicate on when i set this shaft up over here later on to make sure it's running true so still not getting a clean cut all the way around let me take a little bit more i'm just skimming it there we go and i want just enough area i it that i can put an indicator on that's plenty and we'll break these edges let's do a test fit here all right that fits good i'm happy with that [Music] okay we're gonna flip this part around now and get ready to do the other side all right we're going to start on this side first by facing it and put a center drill in this side as well kind of a four jaw chuck here uh that i can adjust you can see we got all the run out in there but what's important is as i turn this little section here in the same setup is where i turned that shaft down there and with the center in the end we got it supported where we're going to turn that all that shaft in there's going to be turned off so even if that's not in the perfect center of the shaft it will be when we get through right now what i want to do is get all this run out out so uh i'm going to look right here this is where i've got my biggest uh amount of um play so we're going to come in here i'll see is go 180 degrees we got 60 thou i need to push the shaft in 30 thou in that direction half of that distance so i zeroed it out right there i'm just gonna loosen that jaw up a little bit we'll flip it around 180 degrees and again i want to take it half of that distance out 10 20. actually it's um 40 thou out not 60 000 it's reading 60 on the indicator i'm going the other direction so that should be close but now i've got run out on the other axis so again i'll come up here i'm going to zero we'll loosen up this jaw go 180 degrees take out half of that we're 30 so i need to go to about 15. now we're down we've only got a couple of thou we'll do this one first i'll zero my indicator just bump that loose we only got a about a thou we gotta adjust out of it all right get this one so now our runout is about a thou i see bring where's my high spot about right on this one i'm just gonna bump that one in a little bit we got our run out now down to less than half a thou probably just going to live with that we'll say about a half a thou that's good though let me just tighten all these up make sure i didn't move it too much i think what i'm seeing bouncing around there's just irregularities in that turn shaft where we're within less than a thou that's going to be good enough all right i'm just going to touch off here and we're just going to take a little bit off the whole shaft just to kind of clean it up [Applause] measure in five inches and this is a rough measurement it's nothing precise here all i'm doing is creating a shoulder for that cutter to go up against this diameter on this side is really irrelevant as long as it's larger than an inch and a 16th which is going to be well above that so now what i want to do is turn this down to inch and 16th and that will give us that shoulder for that cutter to fit on all right i set a roll before when i was turning on the other side i was getting that little bird's nest of chips so what i did was i sped up my feet a little bit make it in a little bit faster and that's helping to break those chips so that we're not getting those long stringy chips like before [Applause] probably gonna leave this a little bit large and go back and finish it all up a little bit later on but we're about inch 350 roughly we got almost 300 thousand more to come off of [Applause] there taking a total of hundred thousand fifty thousand each side yeah i've still got about 50 thou to come off of that to get to my final dimension right now i'm just roughing things out and next thing what i want to do is we'll leave a little step in there for that cutter and the rest of that shaft needs to be turned to one inch and again i'm just going to rough it right now we got about 95 thou to come off of there so and i'm just going to do about 60 foul all right now what we're going to do is we're going to let this shaft cool down because it is hot as a firecracker and once it cools down we'll come over here and we'll cut these uh last little bits down to their proper uh dimensions and get them in tolerance all right i've let this cool down now you always want to make sure when you're getting making critical measurements that you don't have too much heat in your part because as it uh cools down it will shrink a very small amount granted but uh when you're shooting for half thousandths and ten thousandths of an inch it'll make a difference so i've got i'm just going to take 20 thou off of that clean it up get a good measurement i'll tell you what else i'm going to do is um i'm going to slow my my speed my feed rate down a little bit i was going with a really coarse feed rate because we were trying to break those chips but now i'm shooting more for a good finish so we're at about eighty three thou we're going to 62 and a half so i got a almost 20 thou more to come off i'm gonna take a ten thou cut in here with a micrometer you get these uh really accurate measurements it's better to use a micrometer we're on 76 and we're going to 62 and a half about 76 and a half all right we're at 67 and a half for 162 and a half so i got another five thou to come off of there [Laughter] and i believe our cutter will fit on that now let's do a test fit well it's a little bit snug i'll tell you what i'm gonna do is i think i'm going to first thing i'm going to do is i'm going to clean the inside there's a little bit of rust in there still just a little bit i don't know there it goes that that's actually i think gonna be just fine a little bit stubborn going up on there but it went up on there and let me uh put it back on what i'm doing here is i'm just marking the shoulder where that goes up on there i want that to be turned down flush there so that this uh step is no wider it's actually a little bit narrower than the cutter itself [Applause] also want to make sure the back side of that is face down all the way to the root [Music] there we go and we got about 32 to come off of that i'm gonna touch off on there we'll take 20 off we just touched off on there and i went to the end taking about 20 thou off right now i'm gonna turn this down to one inch and we'll take that shoulder right past that little magic marker mark that i made on there i want this to be a little bit narrower than that cutter got about 25 more to come off of there looks like we got about seven thou to come off so i'm gonna dial that in and the bushings will tighten up on there and that'll snug that cutter in place now what we need to do is down here on the end uh put a little threaded section where that nut goes up to tighten it on and i think we'll have this new arbor pretty well done so i've got this set up i think for doing my my thread and i've relieved an area on this end where the threads have just kind of go into that's just like the original arbor and i got a little lead in area down here where the nut can kind of get started this is going to be one inch 14 threads per inch so i've got my lathe slowed down i'm going to just touch off here and feed in some will engage and chase those threads i'll check my pitch make sure we're doing 14 threads per inch and we are so let's cut them on out of there so all right that's getting close let's see if that'll thread up on there there we go a little bit on the stiff side but it'll be fine and with that i think we have this arbor at least the lathe work done i need next step here is i need to cut a key in here for a little piece of key stock and the key in my cutter is a little bit on the small side i'm just going to use an eighth inch keyway which will fit right up in there so i basically just need a little spot right there eighth inch uh what i want to do here now is get my shaft centered up so i've got an edge finder in here pull the part into it until we find the edge i need to go just a little bit deeper see how it jumped over that's when you're right on the edge i'm going to real slowly move in until that jumps over and double check that i've zeroed that on my visual readout i'm now just going to go to the other side we'll drop it down we'll do the same thing [Applause] as soon as it jumps over right there i've got it edge to edge so i've got a measurement now on my digital readout is basically one side to the other of course you got the diameter of the cutter but in this case it's not going to matter because it's the same on both sides what i want to do is take half of that number so you look at digital readout again there's my number that measured across there i want to use the half function so i'm just going to hit the half button right here i'm going to select my y-axis and it basically just divided that number in half and now let me just raise this piece back up i just take that to zero on the digital readout i'm just dialing in by hand here oh went past it so four tenths out there one thousand four tenths that's close enough i'm just gonna zero it in there i'll lock my table down so my cutter is now centered on the shaft i'm just gonna drop it down until it touches uh that should give me a zero i'm gonna zero out my z-axis on the digital readout with about 17 1920. small cutter i'm running high rpms and i'm raising my table up really slowly 35 40 right there 55 60 and a half i will cut me a little short piece of a key stock that will fit right down in that groove once i got it over here in the middle the other thing i want to do is just mill a little flat spot on the back side of this and what that will do is give a place for that set screw to go into without really marring up the surface and preventing that from spinning inside the tool holder that i'll be putting it in [Applause] i put a mark on here [Applause] um [Applause] i think we're ready to put all this together so my custom built arbor will go up into this tool holder like such you can see i got the set screws in here we'll tighten that down on that flat and moved around a little bit but it just got lined up nice and flat on there so that's a little bit longer set screw grab get that one tightened down so should be good there now i took a piece of a key stock here cut the length kind of rounded those corners off that fits in my slot there in my cutter will fit up on here [Music] and it fits on there we'll take bush and spill out the rest of the arbor put the nut on the end but uh i think we have made a custom arbor to fit this really oddball inch and 1 16 inch diameter uh hole right there but that should allow me to get over there on my milling machine and start playing with cutting those bevel gears which i'm anxious to do i'll just go ahead and build this arbor out for you guys so just take a rag and wipe my 50 taper that goes up in there i usually like to do the same thing just make sure there's no trash or anything up inside that spindle we'll put those in i'm going to go around the back side and tighten up the draw bar now we got the arbor installed i'm gonna go ahead and take put my key in here we'll take our cutter make sure we got it turning in the correct direction put it up on there get a bushing i probably need another bushing on there put that on this is the bearing that it runs on we'll take our nut put that on the end i'm not going to tighten this up yet until i get my overarm support on to support that just so it doesn't bend that arbor run my overarm supports out take the outboard support and slide it up on there and then just draw the over arms back over that outboard bearing and our arbor is built tighten the overarms up where they won't slide in and out and voila we should have one very supported cutter ready to start cutting some gear teeth there well there we go problem solved uh have needed a custom arbor instead of having to send it out and have someone else build it or trying to find a next impossible to find size arbor with the bushings and the nut and everything else hey we got a machine shop we'll just make it that's exactly what we did here and this should serve the purpose and i will keep this arbor and next time i need to do a bevel envelope cutter uh because i got again i got a bunch of cutters that are exactly like this have that same size hole in them now i've got an arbor that i can mount them on uh and use those uh cutters for future tops guys that's gonna be a wrap as always thanks for watching please subscribe the channel if you haven't already comments are appreciated as are those thumbs up and guys we will catch you on the next video hopefully be making some double gear soon [Music] you

Channel: Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org

Views: 64,037

Rating: 4.9752135 out of 5

Keywords: Machine Shop, Machinist, Lathe, Milling Machine, Vintage Machinery, Metalworking, How to run a lathe, how to run a mill, Keith Rucker, VintageMachinery.org, horizontal milling machine, milling machine arbor, custom arbor, 50 taper arbor, gear cutting, monarch lathe, horizontal mill

Id: gYj8wi2w3KM

Length: 34min 22sec (2062 seconds)

Published: Mon Aug 03 2020