Creality Ender-5 S1 - 3D Printer - Unbox & Setup

hey guys in this video we're going to be checking out the creality Ender 5 S1 so dander 5 has been around for a while but it's not as popular as the Ender threes so I'm pretty excited to see what this printer has to offer so in this video we're going to unbox it set it up and do some prints hopefully you guys enjoy let's get started [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] so yeah I'm really excited to check out the Ender 5s1 as we do have quite a few upgrades that make the Ender 5 here a lot more compelling so this is the box it comes in it's actually not as large as you would think and here we can see the dimensions in centimeters and I can't really find the weight to this thing but it definitely feels 30 plus pounds so let's go ahead and open it up foreign so it looks like everything is packed in this dark soft foam and this is what we see on top so in this baggie we have the quick start guide with our warranty card it appear to be like stickers so everything is very well packed and even though this printer is 95 assembled at least what it says there's quite a few things to put together so keep that in mind so I'm just going to pull out Parts by Parts here so we've got part of this pull holder got a couple pieces that says L and r on them and almost looks like it's part of the frame of the bed more parts here also labeled R and L and by the way they are injected plastic parts even more pieces here so yeah as you can see this is definitely assembly required somewhat so we've got a larger piece here which is the z-axis frame where the bed mounts and we got very nice quality metal here that's thick quite large rods for the movements and we have the stepper motor here on top with the coupler so but yeah we'll take a closer look at all these details and bit and here we have a box quite a few things in there and we'll go through this in a second and I believe that's our first layer and it's quite thick so the angle is not too great but hopefully you guys can see that we got the upper portion next and then our base below that and as you guys can see we also get a little spool of filament in pla White I'm going to pull out the upper portion and you guys can see this whole thing is pretty much pre-built and it's actually a really nice piece it's all made out of aluminum channels we even get some pretty cool handles here on the side and star of the show is actually this all new hot end that looks quite unique quite a bit to see there which we'll take a closer look in a bit and also guys flip this upside down so we can maybe see it better but if you haven't been around 3D printers too much you might think that this could be a core XY machine which it is not because we have two belts here and this is our y-axis and the motors over here so this acts just like a normal X and Y operation which if we flip it back around this is our y motor and our X is up here that moves this part so yeah for the Ender five it's always been like this I think the inter 4 wasn't the actual core XY but that printer never really did good in the market as core XY machines are quite tedious if you don't know how they work and how to adjust them so yeah this makes it a lot more simple and quite accessible but yeah with that said this up proportion is quite nice and looks like completely pre-built and ready to install all right so actually the part beneath that was the bed and not the base there's Apparently one more layer and this box is quite deep but yeah here we have the bed and looks like most of the installation that will have to do with the bed frame so it's pretty assembled here and we have insulation on the bottom large knobs here very nice and also what's great is this flexible PC sheet that's steel and it magnetizes so using this PC sheet on other printers like the Ender 3s1 I really like it and actually the Ender 3 version 2 Neo has the same one here so yeah I really like that and another thing that is quite a nice detail is these two little bolts they actually help you line up the sheet before you drop it down so you butt against them and then you can drop it and it'll be the same every time if you ever remove this and you wanted to continue printing you would never be able to set it up in the same spot but like this you have a much higher chance of putting the bed back exactly where it was or at least a lot closer yeah pretty cool and the plug actually here that comes out here that's brain relief all right so I guess we do have one more layer in there which is kind of crazy because we've took it out quite a few things but then again we have more things and looks like channels for the corners and they're on both sides and they're actually also labeled which is nice and now we can pull out the base and yeah this is what it looks like it's quite clean with not too much going on here on top we have a pretty large touchscreen display squishy rubber feet underneath and on the back we've got the frame here and so this is like a cover and all the electronics are inside of here and then there's a bunch of wires coming out the back of it so yeah that's everything in the Box so it all was packed good and very well protected and the first thing I want to do is flip this base upside down and it looks like we can take off this cover in the back and we can see what's inside but before that let's go ahead and check out what's in this box as there are quite a few things in here so we got the rest of our spool holder the power cord which is US type looks like about four feet or so our spatula it's not sharpened so you don't really need to use this like on the bed or anything because you don't want to scratch it up but this could be useful or get to the nozzle grab a booger or something so we also get this quite long not sharp plunger of some sort not too sure what it's for because it's not thin enough to clean out the nozzle maybe when removing the nozzle you can clean out the whole hot end as this printer does have an all metal hot in and here we have a PTFE tubing and I'm guessing this is probably from the spool to the hottest as even though it is direct drive the spool mounts on the side of the printer and so you need to get the filament somehow there and this is the 2B go through so let's see what's in this bag all right so there's our clean out needle so this is to clean out the nozzle if it gets clogged we also get the snippers these are really nice we get some flexible flat cable clips for cable management our full size SD card which is a gig with an adapter to USB extra nozzle and a coupler clip some mini zip ties and a bunch of hardware which is all labeled on the baggies maybe a little hard to see but this is everything we need to put the printer together so yeah again guys I would not call this a 10 minute assembly or whatever this is definitely more involved especially if you're doing this for the first time so yeah keep that in mind but for the last part we have our tools which includes a little flat screwdriver two open-ended wrenches the small one here is for the nozzle and this larger one to adjust rollers and other things on the printer and then we get a set of Allen wrenches all the sizes you'll need to work on your printer to put it together and whatnot else so let's go ahead and grab the correct size here for these little bolts and we'll take them out there's only six of them and we'll see what's underneath here all right so we do have a large fan that's connected to the back side and the connector is hot glued so I'm gonna have to leave it like this so let's take a closer look so here we have the power coming in going into the power supply it is a creality branded 350 Watts 24 volts all the connections look nicely organized and crimped here we have a port that comes in from our bed that runs here to the main board so this is creality's latest boards not sure exactly the model number but you guys can see it says creality under there so we can see the stepper drivers are integrated with heatsinks do you have an arm processor full size SD card and yeah you can see everything is hot glued routed and organized and this is our touch screen board which doesn't appear to be a creality brand but that's our little peeper there with SD card insertion so yeah very well put together and simplistic and I like that about creality so let's go ahead and put this lid back over I'm going to put these little bolts back in and we'll flip it around and start the assemble all right so let's put the Ender 5 S1 together so in this plastic bag we have a few things starting here with some stickers and this is just one sheet actually no they are cut out okay so they are individual little stickers that you can put on like your laptop or whatever you want we got a warranty card and after sales information here on the back here we get a piece of paper that you can actually use for leveling and on it hopefully you guys can see but we have a material guide so it kind of helps you understand what kind of speeds retractions and temperatures that you need and also on the back of that we have leveling tips so yeah pretty cool and of course we have the manual itself which is this quick start guide very nice little booklet got the parts list and then symbol instructions which there is quite a few steps but doesn't look too complicated but then again there is a few things to do here so we're going to start with step one which is the 3.1 and that's going to be putting the four corners or the channels on the base and we're gonna need eight M5 25 volts so that's the packet that has a bunch of a minute and it'll be kind of hard to see maybe on video but we can see that it says m525 we're gonna need two on each corner and on the picture there we can see that channel labeled with one goes up front and then two on the right back and three on the left back and on the channels themselves we can see that they're all labeled yeah they made it quite easy and shouldn't be very difficult to figure out all right so let's go ahead and do the two up front and you can't really mistake this because you have a smooth side and a Groove side of the channel and also the smooth side has the sticker on here which goes to the front like this and all of them are going to face this way and I'm going to use a spool here to prop up the front of the printer so it's much easier to get to but yeah we got a couple holes in there that our bolt can go through and we're going to put the channel on top and run them down and grab our largest allen wrench but I'm not gonna snug them up yet because we want him to move a little they might have to give some give as we assemble it and once we get all of the main parts together we'll tighten everything up all right let's do on this other side all right and we got both of the fronts on so the rears are the same way two goes on this side and three on the other now for these the channels are not smooth you guys can see we got some drilled holes through the one on number two here you just line up where the sticker is to the front and we got the three here and all of our channels are on all right so that wasn't too bad let's see what our next step is so for step two we're going to be putting this upper portion onto the channels we just installed the corners and we're also going to need eight m525 bolts the same ones and so grabbing the upper portion with the creality logo going to the front we're going to set it over the channels and we should line up quite easily there we go that actually set exactly where it needs to be and so we got two bolts on each corner holding it down so yeah so far as you guys can see we only have two steps in and we pretty much have the box built so I started them all by hand and now we're going to run them down with the wrench but again don't tighten them yet just kind of get them to start snugging and then stop because we want everything to kind of line up nicely and settle in its place so if everything feels good and solid we can go ahead and tighten all these bolts up and then also including the bottom so I'm going to go ahead and do that and you want to Snug them up reasonably but you know don't go crazy since this is kind of like a box design it's already naturally very rigid and that is all of them and you guys can see that was actually not very hard at all and quite straightforward so for the next part we actually need to move this out of the way because we're going to be working on our build plate with the z-axis frame first before we connect it to the printer itself which will connect here in the back I'm going to slide this to the side and we're going to bring this in and actually guys I think the motor is the bottom not the top and the bed actually sits like this on top so I'm going to run it down just a little bit here by turning this coupler and we'll grab our bed assembly and we're going to be using the same m525 bolts which there are exactly four left and on the manual they recommend using like some kind of support here piece of a phone from the box to hold your build plate as you try to connect it but we're just going to try to do it here in the air but yeah it just simply sits like this and that's how we're going to connect it so yeah could be a little tedious here but shouldn't be too bad and probably a good idea to remove this flexible steel sheet so we don't get it greasy and now I'm going to Snug them up and that should be good right here and this is what it looks like so yeah so for the next part we need to install the plastic supports that go underneath the bed and that's these here so we got a right and the left but we need to flip this upside down and so the right will actually be on this side if you're looking at it like this just like that and hopefully you guys can see that but yeah it just sits around the bearing here and then there's a thread here the bolt goes through on the other side of the bearing we have like a cap with two brass threadings they'll go around and that's how we're going to clamp it down so yeah I guess this is extra support for the bed so the bolts that go up front here are m520s which there's a separate bag for that so I'm going to start this one and then for the clamping is the m525s and there's actually a separate bag for that also with exactly the four bolts we need put the cover there and then run our bolts through and just like that so yeah guys not very hard to figure out quite simple actually so m520 up front and then m525s for this cap now one thing I forgot to mention is that on the cap there's like a little cutout and the cutout actually goes down and that's how they will melt so now we just need to tighten everything up so for this you want to kind of push it down because it's a clamping Force so it's not anything tightening down so push it down and then clamp it with the bolts and I would recommend doing this side first before tightening this bolt and don't go crazy on this as it doesn't need to be crazy tight and now we can go ahead and tighten this bolt and snug it up and this side is done so we'll do the same thing on this side all right we are finished with assembling our build plate and you guys can see what that looks like so yeah now we can bring our printer back in and hopefully you guys can see these holes here that's where it's going to melt so now we just have to figure out how to bring it in we do need to lower the bed all the way down so I'm just pushing it and then we're going to go into it like this the motor on the bottom and then kind of like set it inside this Gap and then we're going to lift the printer because we need to get this piece on the other side of this channel just like that and then kind of pull our back and then it's all going to line up so it's kind of hard to see but yeah if you just go down with the bottom first it'll kind of make sense and then lift the whole printer in this kind of goes under it and there's the shaft that it has to clear too so it's all kind of like a tight fit but it does go in actually quite easily and maybe I could demonstrate it one more time here from the side it might be a little bit easier to see so basically we got the bed all the way down now we're coming in like this on an angle and then you want to be with the back all the way touching here while raising the whole printer on the top and then the top portion will clear this channel and go underneath it and then kind of fall down and now it's in there hopefully that made sense and so for the next part we're going to use m530 bolts to secure it which is in its own packet and there are four of them which will go through these larger holes here into our z-axis assembly so honestly guys I'm thinking that this is much easier than I anticipated from the beginning as we're mostly just putting larger pieces together so now we need to Snug these four bolts up nice and tight but again don't go crazy just whenever you start feeling good resistance stop because you don't want to strip the threads just like that we are done with this step so for the next part we're going to be installing these braces and they go in the corner on the back of the printer and that's these here and the way they want you to install the left and right is the left will go on this side with the L pointing up and the r like this not sure why that matters because they look exactly the same but maybe it does in any case we need to flip the printer around probably better to see here from the angle but yeah since this is the right side we can put the r up like this and it literally just kind of sits in the channel just like that and there's threads that line up in the channels m520 bolts will go through so I'm going to go ahead and remove this sticker in the back because we don't need it there anymore so it's easier to do this if you put the bolt on the wrench and then kind of go into it all right so the right side's done and now we can do the left so I guess I'm going to put the L to the top remove the sticker here and these braces will give us rigidity in the frame all right so this thing's coming along pretty quick and we're looking really nice I'm going to go ahead and peel these stickers off too so for the next part we have the spool holder which mounts on the right side of the printer right over here and you guys can probably see these threaded holes and that simply puts the spool holder right here now we can go ahead and mount the plastic piece to it and there's like a locking nut that goes on there and then tighten itself we're gonna install it towards the smooth side and so we're just going to line up the nut and then turn it with our hand here and it all locks in and just like that and the two bolts that hold the spool holder down is the silver m514 bolts in its own pack so we're gonna line it up here we're looking forward to this side you guys can see the actual bolts there so this is a little fiddly to get in because the wrenches don't have a ball point at the end so a little harder to run the bolt down but not too bad so before you tighten it try to line up the spool holder here flat with the channel and now we can snug these up and that's it so yeah making a really good progress so for the next part we're just going to be plugging everything in all our wiring and also installing our PTF tubing there on the top and kind of organizing the wires and things like that so yeah let's go ahead and go to the back and first thing we can go ahead and connect is the cable coming from the bed and I'm going to go ahead and raise this and that plugs in right here on the back of the control unit so there is a slot It lines up and when you line it up it kind of goes in and then there's a locking washer that locks it so that's in we got a couple wires here and maybe I can zoom you guys in a bit but yeah there's two wires one of them goes to the motor which is down here you guys probably can't see but it's the larger one that's going to plug down there and then the smaller one plugs right here to the end stop switch and the wiring actually has labeling on it which says Z so this is where the z-axis then we got a whole pack of wires here going up and so the flat one will actually go to the hot end which we'll deal with in a second but these here the smaller ones you can see the labels on them these are wide motor or end stop switch and this one is D which I'm guessing is for the filament detector right here so let's do the y-axis first hopefully you guys can see that but we're in the right back corner where our y motor and end stop switch is and so we're going to come here from the back and connect the motor and also the InStep switch a little hard to see but yeah hopefully you guys saw that so that's where these two go and so you guys were just looking in this corner and now we're looking over here which is where the filament detector is and and that's the wire with the D on it or at least that's what mine says and plugs in right here so if we look here on the bottom we have this flat cable coming out here and that's actually going to run through here and then to the top and so right here we have kind of like a little clip or cable management that this thing should fit in which it does tightly you guys can see that we do have some cable clips that we can use here to make this look all nice but the top two cables have our x-axis plugs and also the main plug for the hot end so the x-axis motor and end stop switch is right here so the InStep switch is the smaller one and the motor is the larger one and the wires are labeled X and then if we flip to the front maybe you guys can see here this is where our main ribbon cable plugs in and there's a couple tabs You Gotta spread apart and then when you plug it in it's going to kind of lock together and then we can tuck this cable into this relief bracket here so yeah and so for the last part we need to install is this PTFE tubing which goes from here all the way back to our detector the reason we need this is because our spool holders down here on the side has to somehow feed through here now if it was mounted on top you can feed straight down to this and so it appears that this piece here it comes off most likely there's a brass insert in there so if you're going to build something custom to feed from the top that can possibly work without using this tube but the way it's intended here is the tube goes inside there and the other end goes into the detector there is a little clip in the spare parts that we can use to lock it in just like that so now it's not going to come out easily now this other end actually comes off really easy and I think that's done on purpose just in case you need to feed it in yourself but yeah with this tubing here you know it's going to be quite tedious on what to have to push the filament all the way through yourself until the direct drive can actually grab it so yeah I think the fastest way would be just to push it through here and then grab it yourself push it down and then put the PTFE tubing in but then again you know you could modify to have something going down from the top and feeding it so we also have this little cable clip here and I think it goes somewhere on top where it kind of holds them together and does kind of twist yeah not sure exactly that's how it goes but something like that and this thing can travel any in Direction all right it appears that maybe this cable here also needs to go that's the one for the x-axis all together because it's kind of just dangling around and it needs to move also with all of the other cables actually yeah that works really good right there so yeah that's pretty much how this part goes on so the only thing we really have left to do is use these cable tie or Clips to organize our cable here on the side and the way this works it just Clips around into the channel vertically like this but yeah kind of like that and that really cleans up the look actually I'm thinking this cable probably should have went in there too so anyways guys you get the point you can put these clips in here however many you need this cable here needs to be loose because it needs to go up and down so yeah so I'm going to clip them back out and actually run all of the cables together we'll get a much cleaner look here out of our cable management so yeah that's actually all of them maybe there's a little overkill for this but it tucks it in really nice and looks great and so that concludes pretty much everything with assembly on this printer so as you guys saw that wasn't very hard and quite straightforward now because our whole upper portion here with everything that moves was pre-assembled it should be all adjusted and the way it needs to be so if you want to you can check it there's rollers here on top and also rollers on the side so all of mine are perfectly adjusted so if yours are not the rollers on the bottom do have eccentric nuts same thing for the hot end and this other side too and this would be the wrench that you use to adjust that and with the belts you can kind of see I'm running here it looks pretty good and also we got belts here on both sides and you can kind of check that all too so all right so let's take a closer look at the Ender 5s1 so you guys can see it's not that large actually the footprint on the bottom is similar to an Ender 3 S1 or S1 Pro it is a little bit taller obviously because of all that and maybe a little wider because of the spool but it's not that deep as you guys can see so so there's quite a few things to look at but let's start here on the top with our most interesting and impressive piece here which is the hot end direct drive extruder assembly so it's quite an interesting looking design here we have a metal plate with reality logo beautifully constructed very interesting to look at so on the top this is where our cable comes in we do have strain relief it is a plastic strained relief so it's bendable the extruder mechanism is towards the front there's a motor here for that it is all plastic it seems to be pretty durable going down from there we can see our heat break and there's a little bit of a gap between the heat break and the extruder so that's quite interesting as it's not combined like on the S1 and S1 Pro and I think separating might help with heat creep going up into the extruder but you guys can see this pretty tall here where the filament goes in and where it comes out so the whole frame is metal with different parts attached to it we do have a junction board back there and on the very back we have the parts cooling with this quite unique looking 3D printed fan duct so it's one blower that splits in two and then blows here underneath the nozzle and the CR2 much there's nestled right behind it or in front of it I guess on the inside this is our heat block it is insulated and then our 0.4 nozzle tip yeah overall very unique and interesting how it's all assembled and you guys can see we got a pretty large heat break fan right there in the front and our cable comes out and goes all the way down into the base down there so the way this printer works is like a normal X and Y printer so Y is like this front to back and then X is the hot end this is not a core XY machine and so we got our y motor here turns a belt on each side which connects to these ends here and it all moves together and our X Motors on the Y assembly and the belt goes through here and moves this so and so our home position would be in stop switch there for the Y and X here and the bed actually goes all the way down as the end stop switch is on the bottom so overall you guys can see everything is built really nice and it's nice how it all comes assembled so looking at the z-axis we've got two rods looks like about 12 millimeters maybe might be larger than that and then we have a pretty typical Elite screw with an anti-back lash mechanism there with the spring and that makes it where the bed just doesn't fall down on its own so even though the bed mounts only there on those two rods it's actually still very firm you guys can see I'm pushing it here on the front and it's barely flexing and I think these supports here have a lot to do with that as it's quite a bit more sturdy than you would think for this kind of setup and speaking about the bed we do have a 220 by 220 by 280 tall print volume which is quite good and this is our magnetic mat the two little bolts there that help us line up the PC steel sheet that's flexible so these work really well I'm glad it's on this printer some do say they stick too well but normally for me in the past these worked excellent so we got the steel sheet the aluminum heated part and you guys can see we are insulated on the bottom which is nice to see even though not really necessary for this size bed but it will heat up really quick so it's nice that they included that so as far as the frame of the bed it's made out of channels you guys can see it and maybe this is another reason why it's so sturdy but yeah with the supports there and the channels it's quite incredible how sturdy this thing is and we have large adjustable knobs to level each side so our lead screw goes down to the coupler and the motor back there you guys can see this is where it plugs in and also the z-axis which is back there we do get these nice braces on each side make it all even more rigid and looking on the right side of the printer we have this pull holder which will hold filament and then it can come out right here into the detector then out into the tube to the hot end so not too much going on on the base quite clean we do have a manufacturing sticker gives us some basic information and on the very front we have a reasonably large touchscreen display so it looks a little plain here normally you'd have some kind of writing or something but it's just clean and nothing there and then going down here you guys can see on all the corners we have protection here bottom and the top and going this way on the right side you have full size SD card slot and also a USB type-c connection there and to the left we got the power input Port it is fused with a on and off button and the whole printer is sitting on four rubber feet they're pretty squishy and that should help with noise and vibration so let's go ahead and flip this thing around to the back and I do like these handles and they're on both sides where you can pick up the printer and move it around that's really convenient and this is what it looks like from the back side you guys can see the cable management here very nice our bed cable is strained relief going down to the base and it is removable and we can see where all the cables go inside but the more important thing back here that we need to absolutely check is our voltage so depending on where you live you're going to set that to 230 or 115 so in the US we need 115 so I need to switch that over but if you live like in Europe most likely you're at 230 so make sure you check that before you power the printer on these are our caps here that clamp together around the bearings and this is actually the pin that pushes on the end stop switch it looks like maybe it could be adjusted if needed but yeah overall very nice and well built printer and aesthetically very pleasing here sitting on the desk so for the next part let's plug it in power it on we'll preheat it home it and level the bed all right so I got the printer plugged in let's go ahead and turn it on all right so it does power up I heard the CR touch there and looks like we got the creality logo coming up on the screen all right very cool so it does look like we have a new style menu which is quite interesting and we'll look at it a little closer here in a second I'm gonna go ahead and click on prepare we'll click on home here in the middle under the axis move okay so we got the X moving and then the Y going back that's working and I guess the Z moves separately so there's a separate home here for the Z let's try that and there it goes so it moves down pretty quick which is a good thing because that would be not cool if it moves slow like someday all right so now I'm going to click on temperature settings and we're gonna preheat pla there's a hot button and that's going to go 205 on the nozzle and 60 on the bed so I'm going to grab my little leveling tip paper and we're going to use this to level the build plate so let's go back to axi's move all right so we need to go to settings we're going to click on a leveling method and so we have a couple choices here we've got aux leveling and outer leveling so the first thing we want to do is aox leveling because we do have knobs here we need to get the bed as flat as possible and then we'll use the auto leveling which is going to be the CR touch that's going to measure the bit and then compensate as it prints so here we have a home button let's go ahead and click that that's going to set us up for the leveling I really love how quick the z-axis moves that's a great feature all right and so now we can go to the four corners and also the middle so we'll start with number two which is this corner here we'll get our paper and put it between the nozzle and the bed so you do want to be preheated which we are and we're too loose so I'm going to unscrew this side until we get a little drag and there we go now we're going to go to this corner which is number three all right when we get a drag go to four five and then back to two and you want to go around at least a couple times because as you change one corner other Corners kind of change too so the closer you get it the less offset the out of bed leveling will have to do so let's go to the middle and we're a bit loose or there's a bigger Gap but that's okay again it doesn't have to be perfect because we have the outer bed leveling we're going to click on outer level right here and it's going to ask us to start and so I guess it wants to go all the way down because that's where the end stop switch is all right now the bed's going back up but slower than normal just interesting and I don't know if you guys can see but our CR touch there is out and ready to probe all right so double probes and looks like there's going to be four across and four deep which is 16 points all right and we are done with leveling so let's go back home and let's go ahead and take a closer look at what's on the screen all right so we got hot buttons here on the side home prints prepare and settings so on home this is what we see with the little creality guy there we got the nozzle temperature and the target which is at zero because it's off the bed temperature in the Target the speed and the z-axis offset looks like and then we gotta stop and play button if we click on print this is where we're going to read our SD card which we don't have inserted yet under prepare we got three sub menus proxies move in and out and temperature settings so under axes move we can home the X and Y and also the Z here separately this is the coordinates and then the amount if you want to move it manually by clicking the arrows in and out is going to be our filament extruder controls and then temperature setting is going to be for the hot end the bed and then pla preheat and abs we also have Cooling and fan controls under settings we've got device advanced settings and about so under device we've got pla preheating ABS preheating the leveling button and the language and under language this is all the different ones that are available go back advanced settings got run out sensor on or off restore all movement and temperature PID and about is information about our printer so yeah pretty straightforward and easy to use and the screen is very responsive and really nice resolution so let's click on prepare temperature and preheat PLA and by the way in settings this is where you set the temperatures for that so we can see we're preheating to those targets let's grab our SD card which is full size 8 gig very nice and if you guys remember it does plug here on the right side upside down then we'll click on print and sure enough we have a couple files that are included so I guess we'll start with the rabbit and I'm guessing the boat is probably a benchy so yeah I might just print both of those out and so before we can start our print we need to put some filament in and I'm going to use this blue filament that I have on this pool we're going to cut it on the angle so it's easier to feed throughout the tubing and it's going to go here on the spool holder and let me just turn this to the side so you guys can see a little better putting the spool holder where the filament rolls out this way out into the filament detector here on the side and there's a little light that glows up when it goes through and I don't know if you guys can see but we're pushing the filament through the tube and probably the easiest thing to do is pull the tube out and then push the filament through and then grab it and put it in manually so there's a lever here we have to pull on and then we can put the filament through there now I'm just going to go all the way down turn this back until it comes out the other end and you guys can see it's purging out so this is probably the easiest way to do it and then you just put the tube back in and you're ready to go you can use the extruder controls in here but because it's a direct drive it's much easier just to push it through yourself so let's click on this little rabbit and I guess we gotta push play here and there it goes it started so it looks like the bed's gonna have to come down and home so let's pause there for a second homing again yeah now look at how quick that z-axis is moving up so yeah even though there's a little bit of waiting up and down but it's not bad because it moves quite quick and there it goes and actually guys I just forgot that we did not adjust the z-axis offset so I totally forgot to do that after we did the out of bed leveling and I could tell that it's way too high so let's go ahead and stop this before it goes anywhere else and so let's go back to settings leveling and under aux leveling we have the offsets here that we forgot to go back and do so let's go ahead and set it up for home all right now we can set our z-axis offset and you guys can see we're way too high or too loose so let's go ahead and bring it down okay so pushing down is actually making the bed go down so we need to go up okay now it goes into minus okay so if you hold it you can actually go pretty quick I'm getting close not quite there oh there we go starting to catch yeah I'm making just a little looser maybe mine ended up being minus 0.85 millimeters offset so yours could be different a bit but yeah we definitely needed to do that after we did the out of bed level or you could do it after the manual one it doesn't really matter but in any case now that that's set you can go back back to print grab it we'll start it and we'll try again all right so that does look a little better there you need to get a little closer but yeah so I'm actually minus 1.50 so I'm not sure what happened but I had to go quite a bit more there okay so it's printing really quick even the first layer it looks like this thing is sliced to print really fast let's go ahead and zoom in into the screen here and check out what kind of options we have as we're printing so it looks like this half here changes to the printing and then this one still stays the way it is and you can't do anything on that side obviously as it's printing but here we can see it says the file that it's pretty then we have the percentage with the Progress Circle and how much time passed three minutes then we got the nozzle temperature and the target the bed temperature Target the speed and the z-axis offset you guys can see we're set at minus 1.55 then we gotta stop and a pause button so I'm guessing to adjust anything is we click on something here we got parameter settings menu and I'm guessing you can click on anything well okay you do have to click on one of these here so we get nozzle temperature adjustments heat bed adjustment print speed fan control run out sensors on power outage is on and happy to see this feature because I think once we do spiralize mode we would need to turn this off as if you guys know that most printers have problems if the power recovery is on so I'm really happy to see this and then we have the z-axis compensation up and down so yeah very cool and you pretty much have everything you need so I'm going to let you guys hear what the printer sounds like foreign so I definitely say that it's more on the quieter side than louder but you know not very quiet as we do have some of that sound from the motor coming but it is running really quick right now but as far as fan noise it's quite moderately low so it looks like everything is working great and it's printing really quickly so I'm going to go ahead and print this little rabbit out and we'll also print out the boat that was included and see what these prints turn out like foreign so our little rabbit and looks like a benchy of printed out and I was pretty impressed of how quick it was printing as it appears they're sliced to print quite quick because the rabbit finished in about 15 minutes or so and the bench he only took one hour and 10 minutes looks like and you guys saw how the screen dims down after a while so that's a nice little feature so yeah very quick for both of these prints so let's go ahead and check mark that and it goes back to our main menu all right so let's see what we got here we'll look at this little rabbit first yeah for how quick it printed it actually looks very very good so if I get a little closer you guys can see how smooth the layers went down very impressive we do have a little bit of ghosting or ringing whatever that is but and even under here this part usually never turns out great especially at fast speeds but yeah I did all right and on the other side there looks pretty good too yeah the face here very nice and the ears also look great there's a little bit more layering there almost no stringing at all and our bottom also looks really good so yeah impressive let's check out this benchy and it's still stuck on the build plate let's see how easy it comes off oh look at that no problem at all so with this bed type you have to be a little farther away than closer as it does take very well and you guys saw that popped off really easy and that's what the bottom looks like very nice so the back there a little messy but we have high speed here and looking at our walls there's something a little weird there but other than that it actually looks really good surprisingly good actually for how quick that was there's usually a lot of ghosting around these parts here we almost have no ghosting which is quite incredible and our walls look great including the overhangs there in the back we can see a little bit more ringing there the box and the top so yeah overall very solid for the speed and I think they're trying to you know show off the speed is why we have these test files as printing fast which you know it is advertised at 250 millimeters a second I would assume that would be acceleration speed and not you know actual printing speed as you know directions change your speed really slows down so I can see realistically maybe 120 to 50 would be about what it could do maybe I'll try to print out a few calibration Cubes at certain speeds and we can see how they will look between each other for the next part let's go to the slicer and we'll slice a couple of our own prints and see how they turned out all right so we're at the computer and I got the SD card plugged in let's go ahead and open it up and this is what we see so we got the two g-codes and also a zip file that looks like we need to unpack and that's going to give us another folder let's go ahead and open it up and we can see here we got quite a few other folders so let's open up the first one which is just PDFs of the manual in different languages so it's basically the same thing as the manual in PDF form so it's nice to have a digital manual that you can look through on the computer next folder we got is software and drivers so they're including the creality slicer for Windows got a video here on how to unbox it and set it up material guide which is that sheet of paper that was included with the printer so for pla you guys can see the retraction is 0.8 millimeters at 30 millimeters a second on the speed and the recommended printing speed is 120 to 250 which is quite interesting that it's that quick and you guys can see they break down a bunch of other materials so we're going to try slower speeds and then we're going to bump it up also and see what happens the last one here is the two 3D models in STL form which is the Vinci and the little rabbit and that's pretty much it so let's go ahead and open the slicer and I'm going to use Cura this time around and you can use creality prints or whatever you want to technically but for getting started we'll use Cura and over here we can choose the printer type and I think I do have a ender 5 yeah here we go I do have a profile for Android 5. I probably need some adjusting but if you're just starting you're going to get this menu here and you're going to click on non-network printers and you're going to find creality and then you can see here on the very bottom we've got ender5 and there's also the plus button yeah and also in the machine settings we're going to have 220 by 220 by 280. as our printing volume so let's go ahead and drag something in here and we'll do a little calibration Cube you can move it around or you can use these arrows to move it and on the side here you guys can see we've got some buttons so the first one's move the next one down is scale and you can either type it in millimeters or percentages and then rotate also but the more important settings are up here with our profile let's zoom in into this cube a little bit and let's just go ahead and go through this real quick so if you click on these little dots I want to go to Advanced so under the first section we've got quality layer height 0.2 is good and everything looks fine here under shell we want to change the wall count to three that'll make our walls nicer and top layers to five because it helps fill in the gaps on top so under fill gaps you can click everywhere or nowhere I'm going to choose nowhere for now infield density let's turn this down to 15. printing temperatures will keep 200 on the nozzle 150 on the bed printing speed let's turn this down to 50 for starters and we'll try at faster speeds but I want to see how it'll print these kind of speeds is that's how I normally test every printer our first initial layer we'll turn that down to 15 and then the brim and skirt to 25. under travel retractions are enabled with retraction distance we'll put a one millimeter with 30 millimeters a second for the speed so they did say 0.8 but normally it needs a little more so I'm going to try one millimeter but you know you can go down or up a little depending on what kind of results you get everything here looks good print cooling put the regular fan speed to six layer if you're going to do supports you're gonna adjust that here for build adhesion I like to use skirt as it prints around the print a few layers which we got three here and then starts printing the print straight to the bed and you can do brim which puts layers around the print and then touching it and that helps it stick if you have sticking problems and then raft builds a whole raft underneath the print which I do not recommend does it waste time and material the skirt usually works best and for this build plate that we have this should be perfect and down here we have special modes which is spiralized mode and if we click that we can print spiralize which will be a few layers on the bottom and then one layer all the way around and I was glad to see that we could turn off the recovery mode right on the printer we're going to try this mode out also but yeah that's pretty much it guys except for one more thing if you click on the Dots here and go to expert and scroll down to travel and then a little farther down in the travel you're going to see retract before outer walls I like to uncheck that as it makes the walls look a little nicer where there's a lot of retractions but yeah that's pretty much it and go back to advance here and we are done with our profile so let's go ahead and slice it there's a blue button here it's going to take 35 minutes and we can save it straight to the removable from here and that's saved so I'm going to double click here and clear the build plate and we'll also throw a bench in here and I'm going to push it back just a little bit and the reason I'm pushing it back I had a few questions about this is because of the GoPro I usually put it somewhere here on the bill plate of course for this printer since the build plate doesn't move much I can actually have the GoPro anywhere to get those time lapses but yeah I usually he pushed back so I have more in Focus because it's so close to the print but a lot of times if you print in the same spot a lot let's say right in the middle you kind of wear out the build plate there so pushing the model around as you keep printing is a good idea also to kind of evenly wear the build plate so you know just move it a little to the left a little to the right whatever in any case we're going to slice this one too and this is only going to take one hour and 50 minutes and if we click on the preview here right next to the save you guys can see we can actually view each layer and things like that so all right so we're going to save that also and we can eject the file right here from the slicer or the SD card so yeah now we can go to the computer and print these models out so hopefully this little quick overview was helpful thank you alright so the calibration in benchy are printed out and they turned out really good but there is an issue let's look at the cube here and maybe you guys can see the issues down here there's something weird going on there and also pretty much around the whole print sort of which is kind of bizarre to be honest but if we ignore that and look at the wall so we can see that they're actually laying down very nicely except that we do have some ringing and ghosting on the X not severe but it is there the Y is actually much cleaner which is interesting I'm guessing the double belt on each side is helping control the movement better almost no ghosting and very very slight or zero vibration so so this is the X wall it actually looks pretty good and the Y wall so yeah it's mostly when it turns that the ghosting pops up and here we have the top and the bottom so yeah everything looks good except for this weird part underneath what's interesting is that benchy also got it and it's still stuck let's see how easy it comes off again very easy so yeah the build plate works very well yeah looking at the benchy you guys can see we got the same kind of line all around it which is really bizarre again I'm not sure what's going on there but if we look at the walls themselves everything looks great there's almost no ghosting very very minor ringing or anything like that so yeah it looks really good got the box there with the slit the overhangs are great so cooling is really good and the top looks great also great print overall but something weird going on with the bottoms and if we look at our blue benchy we actually had the same thing happen on one of the sides here yeah I'm not sure maybe our SD card is corrupt or something else is going on because the bunny didn't have it at all so yeah I'm gonna print out some more stuff and we'll see if this problem persists and maybe I'll try to use the reality print software to see if that makes it go away and also I want to do some TPU Printing and maybe throw something like ABS on here and see how that does all right so these are all the prints that we printed with the Ender 5s1 and the main thing I took away from using this printer is how Rock Solid it is because of its design and construction which works very well with the new hot end and giving this printer the ability to print much quicker than a normal I3 betslinger and I also like that the form factor is not that large let's say compared to Ender 3s1 and the overall feeling of a more higher end a robust printer so there's a few things to talk about here as we did have a phenomena that I could not figure out as I was printing out the prints and that is the weird layering on the bottom like we saw here so the interesting part it just came and go as a police seemed like but it was always in the same area I tried different slicers I tried different SD cards I tried turning some features on and off like the power recovery and whatnot else and yeah just nothing seemed to be too obvious of what's going on so I'm assuming this is just my special case and I think maybe a former update might do the trick to fix that but with that said let's go ahead and look at what we printed here so if you guys see here on the bottom by the screen we have a lot of Cubes that are kind of hard to see because they're all black so the first one we've seen the second one I printed bumping up the speed a bit so this is the original one and you guys can see the ghosting went away so the this printer seems to prefer higher speeds including the Y also looks a tiny bit better but yeah as far as the walls they practically look identical so yeah not too much to see there and the next Cube over is 60 millimeters a second which is the same thing as the other one but what was interesting about this one is the weird artifacts there on the bottom the phenomena was kind of Less on this one I can't remember exactly what I did to try to see if I could figure out what it was but yeah the next one we got is 80 and you guys can see it still looks good there's a little bit more ghosting the Y looks pretty good so this is 80 millimeters a second then we have 100 still looks really good A little bit of ghosting there but not bad at all and yeah super solid and then we got 120 starting to get a little more sloppy but still very clean you guys can see I mean it's quite respectable for that kind of speed and then we got 150 millimeters a second and we can kind of see a little bit more ghosting there and some vibrations but again still very nice so yeah you could definitely keep bumping this thing up and most likely go to 200 and maybe even 250 as advertised and still get something reasonable out of it now what I did notice though as you go up in speed that doesn't seem to really help save a lot of time so what I've noticed maybe 120 100 even 80 would probably be ideal depending on what you're Printing and what material and you know what kind of quality you're looking for and one thing to mention about speeds that this printer will be or is already compatible with the Sonic pad and if you want to really crank up the speed you could use that and get the most out of this thing all right so let's look at some of these pla prints so we saw the benchy the bunny in the beginning the calip vibration cube with our black benchy here we have a print that could have turned out great but it failed because of the phenomena here so this is a gear according to what I could see it looked like it was going to be the perfect gear until this problem that this printer keeps having for some reason fused the gears between each other you guys can see the layers are all sitting very nicely and even but it is not functional and fused together so I went ahead and just let it print out as I knew that it probably wouldn't work the next print here we have is in this matte pla from creality and we got like these polygons and it looks really good overall everything sits very even there's nothing too weird or overhangs but if we look on the very bottom we can see there's the phenomena still there all around his tail there so yeah it does appear pretty much on all the Prints but not every single one of them which is interesting so the Frog also got that treatment but it's a little less noticeable and you guys can see how well the layer set so to bring the point home the layer adhesion and Acura accuracy is excellent so there's no issues whatsoever with that our overhangs are all perfect and that dual Parts cooling fan duct working very well if we look here on the back we can see that little layer right there kind of going around a bit but it didn't affect this print at all mostly just a tiny bit which is quite interesting yeah and also the one millimeters retraction seemed to be just right for all the prints also and here we got a pretty interesting print which is an octopus and it also suffered from the phenomena because of that some of these parts are stuck together because they're fused at that area but yeah if we look at the layer lines and the way they went down yeah overall a beautiful little octopus and so those are all the pla prints so I went ahead and tried some TPU and that's this rocket here and this thing turned out excellent there was just a little bit of something funny here but this is TPU and this is in spiralized mode which is quite incredible so it's very thin and you guys can see I can completely Bend this thing up and it'll bounce right back because it's TPU the layer adhesion is just beautiful and what's cool is that this printer does have power recovery mode option where you can turn it on and off so when you turn it off you're going to get beautiful perfect spiralized mode print and I did a little test on the bigger rocket which we'll look at in a second that shows how effective that is yeah I love TPU prints as they're super fun depending on what you print and quite undestructible depending on the application so very pleased with that so let's go ahead and look at the rocket so this is printed all the way of Maximum 280 millimeters tall and you guys can see that's how tall that is and that's definitely the limit because the bed is almost touching the base so the rocket turned out pretty good we had a little bit something funny there but the walls look great there is a little bit of vibrations in the walls but they're reversal slight overall quite solid and very even very minor ghosting or at all you can maybe see there just a little bit but yeah very clean and as we get closer to the top see how smooth that is and I don't know how easy that would be to see you guys but if you see this section right here it looks a little funny and twirly this is where I turned on the power recovery mode and it started stuttering and it leaves like these artifacts and then I turned it off from here and it printed smooth to the ball finished the ball perfectly and nothing melted so yeah very good cooling on this printer now the last two prints are these wheels here they're actually still stuck to the bed and what's impressive about these is that they are printed in ABS and you guys can see there's no warping or anything weird and also this printer had no trouble whatsoever preheating to 100 degrees on the bed and 270 on the nozzle so I haven't pulled them off let's see how easy it is with this flexible bed so they are kind of stuck on there somewhat a little more than I wanted to and I think I didn't compensate the extra heat of expansion so I was probably too close to the build plate but yeah it's sticking too well to be honest and I think with this kind of PE sheet you got to be a little more careful with how close you print because it does stick a little better than usual yeah but this shouldn't be too hard to clean up it pops right off just kind of yeah gotta take the extra time and plus ABS is a little more brittle than usual but yeah if we grab a wheel here you guys can see that it printed out very nicely and everything looks even and super strong obviously as it is ABS we do have supports back here let's see if we can break them loose all right that worked out perfect look at that just got to clean up the edges here a bit and we'll have a wheel here for a little RC car for drifting so these are quite fun to print as they're consumables and this printer has no issues whatsoever with printing hotter temperatures so yeah I think this printer is overall pretty impressive for what it is and it is built like a tank and I love these handles that you can just grab it and carry it around and so what you're getting here is a very well built solid frame that has no flex at all in it a pretty incredible 300C all metal hotend also with the Sprite direct drive extruder and the ability to print much quicker than usual other things to know we got a filament detector ACR touch that does out of bed leveling power loss recovery which can be turned on or off a very reasonable 220 by 220 by 280 tall volume the PC flexible sheet that's magnetic works very well but sticks a little more than usual which I think will wear in eventually it'll be easier to use over time very nice size touch screen with a great UI and I also love the full size SD card so guys as you can see it's a great printer someone that wants this kind of design so if you're into high speed hot printing this is what it's really built for and also combining this with the Sonic pad would give it even greater abilities so yeah and with that said if you guys are interested in this printer I'm going to have some links in the description check it out and if you did enjoy this video then hit that like button also check out my 3D printing playlist I'm sure you'll find something interesting there and if you guys want to support my new channel called just print I would really appreciate it and eventually all 3D printing stuff will be posted there so as always guys thanks for watching and I'll catch you in the next one peace

Channel: Just Vlad

Views: 38,014

Keywords: 3d printing, 3d printer, 3d print, ender 5, sonic pad, how to, ender 5 s1, best 3d printer, ender 5 creality, creality ender-5, ender 5 3d printer review, ender 5 3d, ender 5 3d printer, direct drive, sprite extruder, 3d printer time lapse, 3d printers for beginners, ender 5 plus, ender 5 pro, ender 5 s1 pro, ender 5 s1 review, ender 5 s1 speed, ender 5 s1 3d printer, ender 5 s1 3d, creality ender 5 s1 review, creality ender 5 s1

Id: 2iSJpqiEQJw

Length: 61min 1sec (3661 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 25 2022