Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro - 3D Printer - Unbox & Setup

hey guys welcome back today we got a pretty special video because we have the creality android 3 and it's the latest version which is the s1 pro so the indy 3 has evolved a lot since its first launch and i've been a huge fan of it ever since as it's been one of the best of budget printers to own so i'm super excited to see what the s1 pro has to offer so in this video we're going to unbox it set it up and do some prints hope you guys enjoyed the video let's get started [Music] [Music] all right guys so yeah very excited for this printer and can't wait to check it out so this is the box that it comes in we can see a picture here what it looks like the dimensions of the box in centimeters 51 by 51 by 30.5 and the shipping label says 20 pounds all right so let's go ahead and open it up and this is what we see inside so we got a piece of paper here that's actually like a material guide and it gives you recommendations for each type of filament with all the parameters that are recommended to print it so yeah quite cool and unique here and also on the back of it we've got some leveling tips and this paper is actually really high quality thicker kind of paper so all right so let's go ahead and pull the top off we got dark black soft foam and this is what we see on top yeah there looks like to be a few pieces here and there so there might be some assembly required all right so we'll start with the screen here so this is a 4.3 inch touchscreen display it's got a bracket here on the back it's where we're going to plug it in and yeah that's kind of like in its own little housing pretty cool looking design piece of our spool holder and this one actually clips on the top and we got the filament detector already connected to it brass inserts so it doesn't wear out and actually we got the other piece here which will hold this pull and if you i don't know if you guys can see but it actually has a bearing on it or the middle part there turns so yeah that's a really nice detail and this simply will install here on this side of where the filament detector is all right so here we have something really interesting which is our direct drive extruder slash hot end assembly and this is what makes the pro pretty special as it is a high temperature hotend giving you the ability to print up to 300 c so the thing that really stands out right away is how everything is metal or there's a lot of metal pieces and just the attention to detail on this thing it's a really beautiful piece and so this fan here is the parts cooling fan that blows under the nozzle and on the back of it there's like a little circuit junction and the way they integrated the heat break with the extruder very interesting and quite unique looks like this is where our filament will feed in and this is actually the release arm for the extruder mechanism so and then our main cable will plug in up here and also we have the cr touch here on the side for our probing and out of bed level yeah very high end looking piece here and i'm expecting good results with this setup all right well so far it's pretty exciting here so we do have a bag full of tools and other things and we'll take a closer look a little later we also get a coil of filament not a big fan of these but something to you know get you started it does look like it's pla we also get a spatula that is not sharpened our power cord and it's the us type a bag here that looks like as our manual we also get some creality stickers the warranty slash after sales card and a quick installation guide it's kind of thick but yeah as expected here from creality very well laid out here's all of our parameters to the printer i guess it is in a couple languages this is why it's this thick actually quite a few languages and the first one is english and it does show us here how to put it together all right so you guys probably can't see anything at this point let's go ahead and flip this to the side so yeah we got the gantry which has dual z-axis leads and what's pretty awesome is it is tethered with the belt on top so yeah i'd love to see that but the thing that sticks out the most here is this light bar that you guys see here on top so we're going to go in more detail a little later in the video let's go ahead and get our base out and you guys can see that's everything for the box so let's go ahead and get it out of the way and we'll bring our base back in so it looks like they chose the path of completely molding a shell for the bottom here and it is in a plastic but it all looks pretty interesting we even do have a little storage bin here there's like a handle on the front to pull on the bed back and forth and the bed is a steel sheet that's pretty thin with the pei coating on it so yeah it looks like a pretty nice high quality sheet here and it's got like a nice textured finish to it and it is magnetic and holds very well and there's a couple tabs very interesting and we are going to go through the printer look at all the details but before we do anything else let's go ahead and flip this upside down so it does appear that we do have a back cover there's some venting here and here and maybe we can go ahead and take this back cover off and see what's underneath so there appears to be a few little bolts so let's grab our baggie of tools and we'll see what's in here so we do get some snippers and these are really useful you can cut your filament on an angle some spare parts looks like an end stop switch with a wire a clean out needle to clean the nozzle if it gets clogged we also get a spare nozzle full-size sd card with a usb card reader here we have a bag of hardware bolts nuts to assemble the printer for the last part here we have some tools which comprises of allen wrenches a couple open ended wrenches and a little flat screwdriver so let's grab the allen wrench we need and we'll take out these little bolts and i believe there's only four of them all right so let's see if this little cover here comes off and sure enough it does and there is a fan connected to it and what's interesting guys the cover itself is actually metal i'm just gonna lay it back there so yeah there's only four little bolts that we have to take out and this is what we see so looking from above everything looks laid out pretty well so this space here is reserved for some storage and it's actually very large if you guys can see that so yeah it's quite a big storage it's not very deep but it is large so fitting long items in there would be quite easy so the whole frame is kind of plasticky but then we have metal bracing on the inside kind of like a skeleton then our large squishy rubber feet are stuck to each corner so starting over here we have the power switch and then our power input which comes here from the outlet and then goes into the power supply and it is a creality branded 350 watt 24 volts everything looks nicely connected crimped and our voltage selection is on this side which will be able to change it from here so out of the power supply we're going to go to the main board and you guys can see there's a few glued little brackets here that guide the wires and here we have our main board this is a creality board the stepper drivers are integrated we got our full size sd card slot over here and the 32 bit arm processor right there and the steppers are synced for cooling and there is a large fan on the other side that blows on the main board and what's interesting is i don't see anywhere on here the model number of the board actually guys looking at it a little closer i did find the model number i think it's right next to the reality logo there and ultra tiny letters that says cr fdm version v24s1-301 maybe so yeah something is there but it's in tiny letters but yeah overall everything is pretty tight in here we do allocate a lot of room for storage and everything looks to be pretty high quality under here now the only thing that i noticed that's a little bit funny is this a label here so this is the manufacturing label and they actually stuck it upside down but i will try to peel it and see if i can flip it back around all right so i'm gonna put the cover back on and we'll flip it around and start the assembly all right so let's go ahead and see what our first steps are here in the installation guide so here we can see all the parts that are included so we start with step two and that's going to be installing the direct drive hotend onto the cradle and also installing some kind of wire clip and then for step three we installed the gantry but i think i'm gonna go ahead and install the gantry first because that will make it a lot easier to work with the upper portion so let's go ahead and do that we're gonna need the large bolts and this is what they look like we only need four but for some reason there's six in here grab the large allen wrench and you guys can probably see there's a slot here and then another one on the other side and the gantry will literally sit right in there and it kind of falls in and so now we just need to lift up the printer a bit and we'll bolt them in into the gantry and there are two on each side so yeah guys this is pretty simple here not too complicated so you don't want to tighten this yet we're just gonna basically start them and then we'll flip around and go to this side and you guys probably noticed maybe that i did flip the sticker around so it wasn't too hard it just peeled off and stuck it back on but yeah you can start the bolts by hand because they're long enough and at this point you're probably thinking you know we should completely tighten them starting with this side but not yet and the reason for that because turn to the back here what you want to do is bring the whole z-axis down the reason you want to do that is because you want the channels to be spread between and themselves so they were all the way up but we need to bring them all the way down it does appear that this might be in the way a bit here so yeah just go down as much as you can and now we know the spacing between this channel and this channel is pretty close and now we can go ahead and tighten those bolts underneath and that should be good right there all right so let's return to step one and install the hot end assembly and that's gonna go on this cradle right here so let's go ahead and bring it back up a bit and i'm just using the belt on the top to go up and down and on the extruder assembly we can see there are some holes here and those are gonna line up here with this bracket and so it simply just sits right in there kind of wiggles in there and falls right in and maybe you guys can see there's one two three four little bolts that we have to install and that's these little guys here which are the m3x6 and we'll grab the allen wrench and start them on there and get a little different angle here so you do have to kind of wiggle it around to find the threats but overall pretty straightforward process here so you don't want to over tighten this because we do have four bolts just snug them up decently good and that should be good right there so yeah now there was also mention of a clip and if we turn it around here where our x-axis motors here there is a clip that's already installed on mine so if yours isn't installed yet this is where it goes just like that and it's a clip to hold the wire in all right so for step four we're going to be installing the screen and that goes on the right side of the printer here on the front and it's quite simple we got one two three holes here on the side and they're gonna line up with the screen and you guys can see the screen can actually clip out so let's go ahead and do that so yeah it is removable and our bracket literally just lines up the three bolts that we'll need are the m430 maybe we'll turn it here for a better angle so it literally just falls into place but yeah pretty straightforward a little bit hard to get to as they're pretty deep in there and we got one more up front melting it up might help see it better so we just need to snug these up don't need to be too tight as there are three of them and simple as that our display bracket is on so since we're here let's go ahead and plug the display in and you guys can see there's like a little wire clip here that kind of tucks the wire away and that helps it just from you know not hanging down too low and then we can clip it in so we're getting close to being finished guys so for step six we're just gonna install the spool holder which goes on top and then we're just gonna plug everything in and we're done so let's grab our spool holder and we already installed the the round part that connects together so the way this installs is quite simple it just literally hooks on to the channel on the top from the front like this and then down just be careful for this little wire under there and it should just clip in just like that and then this little wire will hook up to our filament detector and just like that and on the detector you guys can probably see there's an arrow that shows which way it goes pointing down which the filament flows like this down so so yeah and you can move the spool back and forth somewhat and i think it's a pretty good idea to kind of center it where it's a little bit to the side this pool comes in at the center and then goes down and feeds bring this up a bit to the extruder here so it'll have kind of like an even bend both ways we have a very simple installation on this pull holder one thing to note here guys is this light here almost looks like a handle and i always want to grab it but then i realized once i put my hand around it that it's too thin yeah that's something to keep in mind if you move your printer a lot uh you got to be a little careful not to grab the light but yeah this is what it looks like here on the back and the way i was moving the x-axis up and down i was turning the belt here by hand so so if we come down we can see that we got a few wires here that we need to plug in and there's like a little distribution box here or little plugs so the z-axis motor already has the extension wiring on it so all we gotta do is just plug it in here and it is labeled here what each plug does and they're all different so you can't mess it up so each one plugs in in its place and if we go to this side of the printer you guys can maybe see here there's a z-axis plug that's taped to the base and that simply will plug in to the motor and then we have our main wire here that comes out the bottom and this is the wire that goes up and then to the hot end so let's bring this down a little bit and the bracket we talked about earlier that installs right here actually holds the flat part of it but about midway here we can see there's a couple more wires and that's actually for the x motor and then the x and stop switch which are both over here and also on the wire we have a little sticker that shows us that this does slot into this bracket so let's just go ahead and insert it here about where it needs to go we can go ahead and connect everything here which might be a little hard to see but there's the motor plug and then the end stop plug goes all the way over here now i think i'm going to move this a little bit this way where it's more happy feels about right right there and if we flip around to the front maybe a little more here on top of the hot end we have the main plug that'll just plug in there and it literally just clips on actually guys over here maybe you can see there's like another clip that the cable slots into and it helps it kind of all sit nicely and almost like a strain relief there so yeah definitely don't forget to put it in there and also you want to check as you move it around that you have enough length to go from in the end you know without it stretching so i am at the very end and looks like we have enough here so everything looks good so yeah that's pretty much how you install everything which is not very hard at all as you guys saw and at this point we're done assembling but we need to check all of our rollers and belts so the bed actually rolls on four rollers there's two stationary and then two adjustable and the adjustable ones are actually here where the screen is so we should probably pop it off again just to kind of get it out of the way and you guys might be able to see those two right there so they are kind of deep in there but if you stick your hand in there you can kind of feel the rollers and you can check the bed so my bed is actually loose and it's kind of moving around so the front roller is completely loose it's not tight and the back roller is actually perfect so all i need to do is adjust the front one on here so we're only going to work from this side because that's where our adjustable eccentric nuts are so we're going to grab the double ended wrench and we're going to try to reach it here and tighten it up a bit yeah getting a little better and so what we're trying to do is we're trying to get it where it's slightly tight okay so i can spin the roller so the way i do it guys stick my hands in there and i try to spin the roller in one spot if it spins that means i'm loose enough so both of them are able to spin kind of like do a little burnout so if you can do that you're probably good and if your bed's not wobbling which mine is not anymore this is exactly where you want it so if the rollers are too tight or they're clamping too hard around the channel they're gonna wear out really fast so you basically want it as loose as possible but tight enough where it doesn't move around and this is pretty much what we got here and it should feel nice and smooth throughout the range if you got any kind of steps or binds you might want to check your rollers even better and then also check your belt the belt on mine is pretty tight actually i think i want to loosen it a bit and we got adjustability here on front with these knobs and on the belts you want them looser than tighter but obviously not too loose where they're you know have slop in them so yeah that looks pretty good right there let's go ahead and clip our screen back on and if we flip around to the back maybe you guys can see there's a cut out here where you can see the belt or running on the gear so but if it looks pretty good and you're not binding and everything's smooth then you should be good and mine feels great right now all right let's move to the hot end assembly here and we're going to do the same thing so on the top we've got two stationaries and one adjustable on the bottom and what you want to do is just kind of roll around and see what it feels like i do feel something a little bit so i can't spin the wheels but they're kind of tight so i think we need to loosen it a bit so we got the eccentric nut on the bottom there we're just gonna back off just a little bit to loosen it up okay so right now i'm too loose it's moving around so i'm gonna tighten back up a bit just enough when it starts to reasonably grab and you want the x-axis a little tighter than usual because you know we have a direct drive extruder with the stepper motor and everything on there so it's you know a little bit heavier than usual so you don't want to leave it too loose but also not too tight and you'll be able to feel it on the channel so i loosened it up and it feels perfect now and for the last adjustment usually doesn't really need to be done at all is these rollers here on the outside so there's three here and three on that side the adjustable ones are on the inside and so these you just want to make sure they're pretty good so mine are all very decent they actually all spin surprisingly so unless you're ultra bind and like completely smashed over titan you don't really want to mess with this as long as it's close it should be just fine and because we do have dual z axes motors and they are tethered as long as everything is decently close it will move nice and smooth up together but yeah that's pretty much it for adjusting and checking everything except for i just remembered we didn't check this belt here so our tensioner is on this side yeah i think mine was a little too tight again so i'm going to loosen it a bit and actually that feels pretty good so yeah guys we're pretty much done with this part i am pretty excited to power this thing up but before we do that let's check out all the details of this printer so we'll start here on the top we got the spool holder and you guys saw how easy it clips in and out very simple and you can move it on the channel back and forth depending on you know where you want to set it up i recommend putting it on center filament detector it does move around so the filament will come from here down into the detector then from the detector into the extruder so we also get this really cool looking light here it says do not press and you can actually pull this off not pulling so nicely i think i'm just gonna leave it it is pretty fragile as it is just a piece of plastic and there's a power switch here on the side that turns it on and off so we do have these nice smooth channels all around even on the x-axis flipping the printer around you guys can see we have supports for the elite screw but also gears for the belt which tethers the two leads together and there are bearings inside there so this part is all plastic and then we got the metal gears with the leads all these brackets are metal here on the other side we can see how the wire clips our x-axis motor then that housing that has the gear and underneath is where we plug in the end stop switch going down we have the motor with the couplers on both sides this is our junction box which plugs in the z motor the power for the light up there and the filament detector wire and these wires travel up the channel and come out here here we have the manufacturing label that we flipped around the on and off switch i like how large it is very nice power input socket it is fused and then going to the middle here we have the voltage selection and this is also a sticker that we need to peel and have a feeling it's not going to peel yeah that's really hard to peel all right there we go and you guys probably can't see but we are set on 2 30 and it's kind of deep in there and dark and i'm going to go ahead and switch it to 115 so make sure you check that and set it to the correct voltage or you could have problems with the printer so yeah in the back it's pretty clean nothing too much going on we got a wire coming out here to the bed and this is our y axis motor and stop switch you can see it up here and our belt that runs inside so here we have our aluminum heated bed large knobs to adjust the level high quality springs and if you guys look underneath we are insulated also so that should give us a great heat up time and on this side you guys can see we are super strained relief with this pretty large connection here to the bed so that's very nice to see flipping back around to the front let's go ahead and take a closer look at our hot end so this is a really nice looking piece so this is where our filament will feed in we can see we got some kind of like brass bushing in there this is our release arm for the extruder so everything is metal here there's a gear here that kind of pokes out and that looks like it's ran by this motor which runs the extruder and that'll probably be a good indicator to see if you know the extruder is moving on the motor itself we got ender branding there very nice to this side we can see where we installed the bolts that hold it all together we got the parts cooling fan here with a metal shroud around it on this side we have the cr touch connected here and our cooling fan behind this shroud here and then we can see some wires peeking out there so looking here on the bottom kind of see what our fan looks like there and there is a duct that comes out and blows underneath you can see the heat block that has a silicone sock and the tip of our nozzle and if we go this way you guys can see we have our x-axis and stop switch here and this is all completely covered so you can't see anything inside of it and on the other side here we have the belt tensioner for the x and also a cover that covers everything up so going down from the hot end we have the build plate and this is a pei finish on a very thin steel plate so i really like these they're really nice and easy to use things stick really good and this pei material is really tough and long-lasting and you guys can see we have two tabs there on each side to pull it off and it's literally just a steel thin sheet and underneath that we have a magnetic mat that this magnetizes to and it's not too hard to line up and it sticks really good so on the bed we have this handle that's connected to it that you can pull and push on i guess to move the bed back and forth instead of grabbing it like this or pushing it when it's hot so that's a pretty nice detail and below that we got the y channel that the bed rolls on with our belt and adjustment here for the tightness now if you want to you can go ahead and check your bolts everywhere around the printer and see if they're tight including here on top as over time even sometimes at the manufacturer they don't tighten them completely and so they might need to be snugged up a bit so going to the very front on the left side we have our full size sd card slot and a usb type-c port which is used to connect to the computer we got this nice look here on the sides and this is one all large injected molded plastic our screen is actually more than 45 degrees leaning so it's pretty flat down so you can see it really good from the top and probably one of the coolest parts a really large storage box here on the front that could fit a lot of tools in there and whatnot else so yeah i really like that so going on the left side we got a pretty clean channel here and on the right side we don't have too much here and so the screen is a very nice large size we do have a sticker here that reminds us that we need to check our voltage on the power supply which we've done already so make sure you do that let's go ahead and peel this protector and this is how they all should be like very easy to peel so the screen looks really nice we do have some bezels here around but overall it's a great size and should be quite easy to operate and we do have four large rubber feet on each corner that help with noise and vibration so yeah guys overall pretty cool looking printer really impressed with the design i absolutely love the hot end direct drive extruder assembly here which looks like they put a lot of effort in so i'm definitely looking forward to running that and overall just a really nice solid printer so for the next part let's go ahead and plug it in power it on and level the bed all right so i got it plugged in let's go ahead and the power switch which is on this side here very conveniently placed and it does turn on and you guys probably not gonna see the display at all but it is powering up and it's booted up and right away i can see the display is a very high resolution so we're gonna look at it closer here in a second let's go ahead and see if this light bar on top works so i'm gonna hit the power button here on the side and look at that wow it is quite bright and the light is actually more of like a soft white so we're more on the warm instead of the cool so let's go ahead and take a closer look at the screen and you guys can see the resolution is really clean so even when i'm looking at her clothes i pretty much can't even tell the pixels yeah really liking that so on the top we have our nozzle and bed temperatures the speed and the z-axis offset which is kind of interesting that this is the home and what it looks like so the home looks like is also the printing page so here we have the print button and this is going to read the sd card which we don't have plugged in yet then we have the ready button so here we can move our axises and also home the printer so let's go ahead and click on home and it is moving home right now and here you can choose the increments that it moves individually on each axis and up here guys we actually have sub menu so this is axis move and then in and out which is the extruder and then we have manual which also has our preheats for pla and abs here or you can manually enter it by typing it in so let's go ahead and preheat it also you guys can see change to 200 on the nozzle and 60 on the bed and you also have fan control and cooling in the settings we have device advanced and about here so under the device we have pla abs settings where you can set the temperatures for that we got the level button and a language you guys can see all the different languages that are available so here we have advanced settings and about let's click on about so this is everything about the printer you can see it's the s1 pro firmware there's actually our main board model number and the print size is 220 squared on the bottom and 270 tall and if we click on advanced settings we have movement restore all and pids so yeah it's pretty basic here guys and nicely laid out very clean ui so we're going to go to settings here and do our leveling so under settings we're going to hit the level button and that's going to set us up for leveling the bed and there's two stages to this first we manually level it and then we're going to let the auto leveling probe do the job and so to do the manual leveling we'll have to click on aux a level on this side so it's doing a probe right now in the center and i'll lower you guys down so we can see a little better but yeah it's setting up for it all right so after clicking on aux and you guys won't see this at all but there's five points that it gives us on the bed and also a z-axis offset and so we're just simply going to push on the points so we'll start here with this corner and you'll need some kind of paper i'm just using a sticky note and we'll start leveling the bed as you normally do manually all right move to the next one and so the reason you want to do it manually is because if you let the out of bed leveling do everything and your bed is not level already it's going to have to compensate so much there's a good chance it won't work right if you don't manually flatten the bed first and this is what we're doing here so you want to go around at least two or three times and get it close and also don't forget that you do need to be preheated so everything's expanded so since this bed is not that large it's actually quite easy to get it close quickly and i'm pretty much there but i'm going to go ahead and just go around one more time to make sure because i do want to be as close as possible that way our out of bed leveling won't have to compensate so much all right that looks pretty good and now we can go to the middle so it doesn't really matter what the middle is yeah on mine here is actually a little bit tighter when it measures everything it'll compensate for that and you guys probably can't see this at all but the auto leveling button is right here so let's click it push start and there it goes so it actually is taking three probes in one spot and looks like it's gonna do a four by four most likely yep and so that'll be 16 points on the bed that it will measure i just realized guys that the the camera was a bit over focused to the front hopefully you can see it better now all right and looks like it is done with the outer leveling all right so for the next part we need to set our offset we'll click on aox level again and down here we're going to have our z-axis offset setting right below the numbers but first we want to click on number one to set us up and we'll click down since i'm too high all right getting close and there we go so once it gets a little tight just go up one from there well depending on how thick your paper is and that's it so mine ended up being minus 1.20 millimeters for the offset and simple as that guys we are done with out of bed leveling so let's go ahead and home it all right so now that everything's good to go let's go ahead and load the filament and i'm going to use this silky copper looking filament here and we're going to put it on our spool holder wow this thing's so nice because it has that bearing and so it spins really easy so from there we're going to go through the detector and it does have a little blue light there and then we're going to go down into the extruder on the extruder we have this lever that we push just like that and then we can feed the filament and we can go ahead and push it through until it comes out the other end and you guys can see there as i push it down we can purge it and that's the best way to do it on a direct drive extruder like this as it is pretty quick to just push it through yourself now you can go to the ready and click on in and out we'll click on in let's just say 15 millimeters enter and it'll push it through 15 millimeter so yeah either way but it is short and so it's quite easy just to do it yourself so yeah guys we're pretty much ready to print we've preheated level the bed set the z-axis offset put our filament in so let's go ahead and grab our sd card that was included and it is an eight gig and it should plug in right here and it looks like it goes in upside down yes so we'll click on print and you guys probably can't see this very well but we do have a few files to print here so we have a rabbit cat handle and also some kind of ender bit file so let's go with the one on top which is the rabbit so we'll click on it and i guess we need to push the play button here yep sure enough and it starts and there it goes so i'm going to click on z axis offset here to compensate just in case we need to go up or down as it starts printing now we can see our cr touch doing his job and there it goes and uh yeah right off the bat the offset looks perfect and you guys probably won't see practically anything because of this fan trout here yeah it's probably got to go through the site to view it here but yeah looks like perfect as far as i can tell zoom you guys in here a bit kind of see the tip of the nozzle there but yeah looks like our offset was just bright and we go straight to printing and this is one of those things that i love about reality printers is that as long as you set everything up pretty good it usually works out great and just starts printing so as far as the sound it's actually pretty quiet it's not completely dead silent like you can hear the steppers working they're just very muted but i'm gonna bring my microphone in so you guys can hear but i do have to say the fan noise is actually much quieter than most printers so overall i would say this printer is moderately quiet so going back to the screen you guys can see that it's pretty dim and it does out of dim itself so if you click on it it goes to being bright and i guess that's a good feature for preserving the screen life but i wish there was a way to keep it on so you could see it all the time so this is what we see when we're printing we got a stop pause down here the progress 11 done and there's like a progress circle and the amount of time passed since we started which is eight minutes now the file name above that and then on top here we have the nozzle temperature and the target the bet temperature target the printing speed and the z axes offset so if we click on any of this we'll have another minion that pops up where we can adjust the nozzle bed print speed the fan and the z-axis offset where you could do here so if you need to go a little up or a little down when you first start printing you can do that here so yeah very basic controls and very cleanly laid out separated between each other all right so yeah it looks like we're printing away pretty quickly actually and it won't probably take too long to print this print as it is booging along so we'll print this and maybe another file and see what they look like all right so we got the rabbit and the cat printed out the printer did well seems to print great with no issues so let's go ahead and take a closer look of what we got here so we'll start with the little rabbit so you guys can see the layers went down really nicely so this filament is a silky but it's kind of really cheap so you might see a little bit of discoloring and stuff like that but overall great layer adhesion you can kind of see some lines there is a little bit of layering down here but very small and overall really nice print you can really tell the accuracy of this printer and how well it puts the layers down there is a little bit of stringing between the ears so not sure what the retraction set at and we also have a little bit of overhang or something going on here yeah other than that everything looks great and pretty good print overall i would say so we also printed out the cat and he still stuck to the build platform let's see how easy it pops off and look at that pretty easy and this seems to work really good this pei sheet now on the cat we did have a little bit of an issue one of our supports broke loose and i think we were a little bit far from the build plate so as it was printing i did offset the z a little bit lower but that was pretty much at the end of the start there so go ahead and get these supports off and look at this little cat so yeah again overall very nice layer adhesion the layers seem to go down very evenly we do have a little bit of unevenness here and there and plus we didn't slice these prints so i have no idea of you know the parameters on them but overall not too bad and a really good start here for the s1 pro now i know this printer should produce even better results so let's go ahead and jump to the computer and we'll set up the slicer and slice our own print all right so i got that sd card plugged in let's go ahead and open it up and this is what we see first thing here we got the 3d printing manual and all these different languages and i guess i opened a chinese version but yeah you get a full copy of the manual in digital form second folder we got here is the slicer and drivers and we also have a pdf here that basically goes through how to install and use the software so this could be helpful if you choose to use the creality slicer i'm actually going to use cura so we'll set that up here shortly and the last one here is you got a couple of videos of the leveling procedure and just how to get started so yeah if you want to watch those they could be helpful so the rest of the files are the four g codes that we saw we also get this material list here in pdf form which as you guys can see could be very helpful especially when you're first getting started and then we get the four stl files to the four included prints that we can print so one of them is actually also a handle if you want to print it so you can install it and actually there are a couple bolts and t-nuts that were included with this printer that you can mount the handle with but yeah they give you the sdl that we printed so since we're using cura let's go ahead and open it up so i'm going to click over here add a printer go to non-network printers we'll find creality and then we'll choose the ender 3 pro here as our base so here we can rename it so let's add s1 i'm just going to get rid of the reality and just call it ender 3 s1 pro and here we're going to do the machine settings it is 220 by 220 and at 270 tall i believe that's correct and that's all we really need to do here except for under the start gcode where it says g28 we're gonna add g29 and that's because of the cr touch and we should be good to go so let's click on next and here we can see our build volume so let's go ahead and throw in a calibration cube i'll push it back just a little and if you guys saw that i just clicked on it and when you do that you can actually just move it around or you got some hot buttons here on the side where you can remove it scale it and rotate it but we're not going to go too much into all the details one thing that's quite important is over here if we click on our print settings and if you see these little dots here if you click on that you want to be on advanced and let's go ahead and go through all this and change a few things so we're gonna print at point two layer height and everything looks good here wall line count we need to change the three as the walls will look better top layers i like to change the five fill gaps between walls i want to go nowhere for now but if you want the best finish you probably want to keep it to everywhere infill is good we'll keep the temperature at 200 except for the first layer maybe we'll go a little hotter 205 and also on the build plate we'll go 65 initial layer here you can adjust the print speed i like to print everything at 50. initial layer i'll turn this down to 15 and the skirt or brim we'll do 25 so under travel we have retractions which should be on and it's at 6.5 and we're going to change that to four and you can go up or down from here depending on how much stringing you have and whatnot else but about three to four millimeters is a good start depending on the setup and the filament things like that retraction speed should be around 40 or so millimeters a second maybe even 45 so this also can be adjusted but if we look at the materials guide we can see they they recommend 40 for all of them so i guess we'll go ahead and set that to 40. and i'm actually really surprised at their retraction distance of 0.8 millimeters which in my experience never works out and that probably explains why their test models are so stringy in any case guys for cooling we got it on here leave everything as it is you can generate supports if you have overhangs by checking this box and then you get a lot more options to do that and then our build adhesion is skirt which what i like to use and three lines around the print and then it starts printing in the special modes we also have spiralized which we will try out basically prints a few layers on the bottom and then one layer all around so we'll print like a spaceship or vase or something to see how that prints but yeah pretty much that's all of the settings that i normally use and obviously you can adjust all this to your liking and to your printer but yeah that's pretty much the basics so if we click the slice button here we can see it's going to take 45 minutes to do this cube so let's go ahead and save it to the removable and we're going to right click or double click and clear the build plate and i'm going to go ahead and throw a benchy in here and we'll also push it back a little bit slice it the same way and the bench is going to be one hour and 55 minutes and we'll go ahead and save that so now we can inject the card straight from here so i'm going to go ahead and print these out and hopefully this was helpful all right so we got the calibration cube and vinci printed out they both turned out pretty good i do have to mention though my filament is kind of old i have been using it for over a year it's at the end of its pool life and it's starting to print a little funny here and there and i just wanted to mention that because i know the prints can look better in any case let's look at the calibration cube first so here we have the x and you guys can see the layers went down really nice it's really smooth very minimal vibration and practically no ghosting we got the y a little more vibrations and a tiny bit of ghosting not terrible though now we might need to loosen up this y belt it does seem a little tight still and we can do that on the fly here so try doing that to see if you can get a better print quality we got the x wall and the y wall so yeah everything looks really good the bottom has this pattern here from the bed which looks pretty nice and this is our top so yeah excellent print as expected from creality let's check out the bench here so the bottom and by the way the bed has been sticking very well what's interesting is when it's hot it sticks great and then when it cools off the models just literally pop off so yeah so far great experience with the bed let's look at the walls here on the benchy so very smooth clean even layering a little bit of ringing right here or ghosting but barely anything this is our z seam here so overall you guys can see really accurate and spot on the walls look pretty good we did have a little bit of stringing you guys can see that i'm pretty sure that's because of my filament but yeah everything looks really good the box with the slit and the top so yeah overall great print quality honestly to be expected with this printer so at this point you guys can tell the printer's very capable but we're going to go ahead and print out a few more models and we'll take a closer look at those and also at the end my final thoughts on this printer [Music] all right so these are all the prints that we printed with the s1 pro i have to say pretty impressed with this machine overall for what it is and what it has to offer i think it's a very interesting proposition from creality so if you're a huge ender fan you're going to love this printer as it kind of takes the best of ender 3 and puts it all in here so we've seen the initial prints we printed the benchy the cube so i also did specialty filaments like tpu you've seen yellow and then a couple ped g's and also abs which i was really impressed with so the first thing i want to show you is this other benchy i printed so this is in pla brand new filament out of the box one millimeter retraction so and you guys can see what everything is right the print turns out beautiful and even though our original benchy was pretty good this one is much much better and i think having the right filament is everything when it comes to great prints as you guys can see in this adventure here so yeah and the sheet they give you for the parameters for every kind of filament actually is quite good and accurate and overall it's a great guide so here we have a tree frog and this print is pretty detailed and by the way everything was printed in 0.2 a layer height at 50 millimeters a second and you guys can see it turned out really good overall we do have some stringing though and again this is that one millimeter retraction so certain filaments just don't retract good enough but yeah guys the overhang here on the front is perfect and the accuracy overall and how the layers sit is very nice so here we have a gear and i got it printed in this black pla unfortunately there was a lot of stringing on this one and you guys maybe can see all between the gears there and i believe this one was set at four millimeter retraction and still didn't do good so yeah some filaments do great and others not so well but i'm almost wondering if i would have redone this print in one millimeter retraction if we had maybe a little better results but in any case i will have to use this wrench here and we're gonna see if we can break these gears so they will turn so since we have a lot of stringing this might be a little bit messy but well you know overall it did go it is a little tough to spin because of all that shrinking inside but yeah as far as i can tell it's really smooth the way it spins so it's very even so that tells me it's very accurate and if it wasn't for all that stringy we probably would have had a perfect gear here so overall very impressive and shows that the printer is very capable and our last print here in pla is the shark it prints in these multi pieces and then kind of combines and they're linked together and this shows for one that the bed you know has to hold all these pieces and then they combine so pretty impressed with the build plate overall very nice and easy to use but yeah if we look up close guys you can see everything looks awesome and all the layers are very accurate and very well laid down so now the shark does have a functional mouth let's go ahead and see if we can break it loose here so far doesn't want to well actually there it goes so sometimes actually these teeth don't print right but on this printer they actually print perfect and the mouth works beautifully so yeah very very nice results here and this printer doesn't disappoint all right so for the next part let's look at the tpu prints i actually have a couple which we have this benchy here and as you guys know benchy's quite a complicated print and you guys can see the tpu did great and being laid down by this printer now we did have a little bit of something funny here and i believe that maybe the fan at 100 was a little too much for this tpu i probably should have turned it down to maybe 70 or even 50 percent you get a little better result but yeah other than that you guys can see the layers went down beautifully and it just looks great try to bend it but yeah you can see it is tpu so actually twist the top here in any case yeah i did great and all i did is just turned down the speed on the other benches i printed to 50 and this is what we got now i got a little curious after that and printed the spaceship also in tpu but it's in spiralized mode so it's just a few layers on the bottom and then one layer all around so it is hollow pretty much you guys can see it's pretty incredible that you know we can spiralize mode tpu and get this really flexible little toy and i can fold it up in many pieces and it'll unfold back into the spaceship so yeah i thought that was pretty cool how well tpu can be usable with spiralized mode and actually make pretty interesting models that are very flexible and you know not breakable so at the bottom is really good surprisingly like it won't rip or tear so i mean obviously if i do it hard enough i probably will rip it but it's much more durable than i ever thought it would be now that said there is an issue with this printer in spiralize mode and you probably won't be able to see it on this print you got to look really carefully there is some weirdness going on in spiralized mode because of the way the printer processes the file and we'll talk about that once we get to this a larger spaceship but yeah tpu very easy for this printer and turns out great as you guys can see here so the next filament i wanted to try was pet g which was pretty good now i don't have much pet g so whatever filament i have is what i used and it is pretty stringy but still it did turn out pretty well so peggy is printed a little bit hotter at 220 30. and overall it's great but we do have quite a bit of string here and there it did print out the model nothing failed and it is very durable because it is pet g so no issues whatsoever doing that now i did print this handle also that actually came with the printer the file did and i guess this is a handle that you can mount on the top of the printer but there's no room up there because we have the spool holder which it's kind of interesting that they even included but this handle actually would work very good for like a ender 3 version 2 printer and this is also in the same filament pet g it did turn out really nice there was a little bit of blobs here and there but they just pop right off when you scrub them so yeah overall great results and i really like the finish on it from the bed got like a little textured kind of look so now there are supports that we need to pull off let's go ahead and try that here real quick and you guys can see that broke off perfectly same thing on this side and yeah being in ped g this is a very functional print that is durable and if you guys remember they did include the hardware to mount this handle so we get a couple bolts with t-nuts and the bolts will go through the handle in the hole and then the t-nut on the other end just like that and save one for the other side and now we can install this handle on the channel and then tighten it up with these t-nuts and then you'll have a handle for the printer to move it around now for this printer as you guys can see there's not much room here for it i'm not sure exactly why they would include this when it's technically not even mountable unless maybe i'm just not understanding where it could go but yeah i think i'm just going to go ahead and use this handle for my other printer which is the ender 3 version 2 and it'll perfectly fit there so yeah you can print out this little handle and you have the hardware to actually use it so the next prince i'm excited to show you guys is these wheels here and this was actually printed in abs and i was a little reluctant to try this because normally abs really warps and you know it's hard to print anything but it really turned out great with these wheels on this one here i haven't cleaned it up but i did use brim kind of make a little more service area and we heated up the bed to 90 degrees and i think i printed about 260 or 270 on the nozzle and the pei really held the abs no problem whatsoever so here we have a wheel that's all cleaned up and there was supports going you know up like that so yeah everything turned out really good and this is like a little wheel for an rc car that we are going to actually use and this is great because i could just print these out as we need them because this is an abs it's going to be more durable and plus gives us a different kind of option to use yeah was really impressed with abs printing on this printer even though we had to you know really heat it up and as you guys probably know with abs you do have to have some kind of enclosure so you can keep the heat in so maybe for smaller items like these wheels looks like it's very capable and quite easy to do all right and so for our last print we have this spaceship which is in spiralize mode but there is an issue and it really started showing itself up higher here so i haven't removed it from the bed yet it's actually stuck on there let's see how easy it comes off it should be really easy okay so it's actually stuck on pretty well but it is coming off there we go yeah and this pei has been great and just popping off so all right so our whole top is crumbling away i guess we can go straight to the top here so you guys can see what our issue is and you guys can see that it's under extruding and just terrible terrible pausing so what was happening is because it's one layer all the way up the printer has to remember each time it goes up where it was last for the recovery and so because the power loss recovery is active it's trying to constantly as the z-axis is going up to remember that position and eventually it just gets full and starts getting stuck and gets laggy and so in this printer instead of stopping the nozzle and leaving little blops as it stops and just thinks it was stopping the extruder up here higher so the extruder just wasn't extruding consistently giving us this really bad finish here so but yeah if we look at the bottom it looks great and actually the walls turned out pretty good too there looks to be no issues here which is interesting so as i guess the buffer filled up it got bad up here everything below that you guys can see a really nice finish very accurate not much ghosting or ringing so yeah but out of the box this printer is not great for spiralize mode because it does have trouble but there are ways to mitigate that so if that is important to you might want to look into to have the recovery mode turned off in the slicer but yeah guys overall i'm really impressed with this printer it does have a lot to offer everything is well thought through and you really do get a high quality machine starting here with the direct drive extruder and the high temp of 300c hot end setup cable management is very nice this led light up here is quite useful we got filament detection dual z axes reasonable build volume 220 by 220 by 270 very nice pei build plate great resolution screen love the huge storage here up front where you can keep all your stuff adjustable belt tensioners on x and y full size sd card and not to mention the automatic bed leveling with the cr touch which makes this very flawless and easy to keep it leveled so yeah if you are a ninja three fan this is very nice and nostalgic somewhat and you know kind of like to the max of what you get with ender and even though it's not cheap you really do get quality components on this printer personally i think the ender 3 version 2 is still a better value obviously but if you want the best that ender has to offer then the s1 pro here would be definitely it so hopefully you guys did enjoy this video if you did then hit that like button if you do want to pick up this printer i'll have some links in the description check it out also check out my other videos like the ender 3 version 2 and i have a lot of other 3d printing videos in the playlist i'm sure you'll find something interesting there and if you made it to the end thumbs up to you and as always thanks for watching and i'll catch you in the next one peace

Channel: Just Vlad

Views: 335,554

Keywords: ender 3, 3d printing, 3d printer, ender 3 s1, ender 3 s1 pro, direct drive, creality ender 3 s1, sprite extruder, ender 3 pro, ender 3 review, 3d printer review, creality ender 3 s1 pro, ender-3 s1, ender-3 s1 pro, should i buy ender 3 s1 pro, ender 3 v2, 3d printing for beginners, 3d printing time lapse, ender 3 s1 setup, ender 3 s1 pro review, ender 3 s1 pro setup, ender 3 s1 pro unboxing, ender 3 s1 pro assembly, creality ender 3 s1 setup, ender 3 s1 pro leveling

Id: CpM5pSSYq2c

Length: 55min 40sec (3340 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 10 2022