3D Printing with ABS - Tips for Success

if you've ever tried printing with abs you know that it can be something of a challenge I have recently been printing hundreds of these in ABS and it has given me lots of opportunities to tweak my process today I'm going to go through the process that I use to print successfully in ABS and maybe you can pick up some tips to make you more successful to welcome back to cloud 42 I'm James well if you saw my last video you know that I'm working with my local maker community to make hundreds of face shields for our local hospitals for Cova 19 response now I'm printing the parts that I'm printing in ABS other makers are using PLA or PET G and I'm pretty an ABS for a few reasons one is I like the material I like the properties of the material and I have my printers tuned pretty well to handle it - I have a lot of it on hand and three it's cheap and it's easy to get especially right now when everybody else is buying up all the PLA and pet G to print face fields so if you clicked on this video to tell me that I should have good ventilation if I'm printing an ABS go ahead and put that down in the comments ABS gives off fumes when it melts that are obnoxious for sure and possibly harmful so you should make sure that you have good ventilation if you're printing with ABS so let's start by talking about why abs is harder to print with than some other materials this is the ABS filament that I usually use I usually use east Sun and honestly I don't know if this is any better or any worse than anything else I was originally buying some No Name unbranded stuff from the company that I bought the 3d printer from and then I tried a roll of east Sun and had really good results with it and so I haven't really found any reason to change so I know how this stuff works I have my printers tuned I figured out temperatures and flow rates and print speeds that work so I just keep buying the same thing and I keep getting the same results so that is good enough for me so what is ABS ABS is actually a combination of three different plastics I'll probably mispronounced these and if I do go ahead and describe down in the comments how I should have pronounced them and good luck with that but it's acrylonitrile butadiene and styrene and so because it is a mix of three different materials the formulations are going to vary and so you'll find if you print a lot of ABS especially if you print from different manufacturers some of it smells stronger than others some of it maintains its color better as it's heated and cooled some of it ends up glossy some of it ends up more matte some of it shrinks more than others and so the properties can vary quite a bit in fact I think more than you're gonna see with PLA and pet G which are are not combinations of different plastics as far as I know but because abs is just a mix of different things the proportions can vary and the chemical composition can vary a little bit so why is it that ABS is hard to print with it certainly has a reputation for being hard to print with and the reason is because ABS shrinks when it cools and everything shrinks when it cools that's not news but ABS shrinks more than other plastics depending on the exact formulation it's somewhere in the 0.5% 20.7% maybe 0.8% I did another video on compensating for that shrink to get whole distances in the right place and you can go check that out if you're interested but the shrinking occurs after the plastic solidifies and as it cools and this causes so if you imagine that I'm gonna start printing apart and you know the part is gonna be rectangular it's gonna be like this and I'm gonna start by laying down a layer of filament and another layer of filament and another layer of filament and as these go I'm laying down hot filament on top and that filament is cooling so when I lay down this strand I may play a few more here and I get up higher on the part this it starts cooling and when it cools it shrinks and it pulls in Word and that inward force pulls in on the part and that tries to pull the top edges in which then results in pulling the top of the part in this direction which then pulls these corners up off the bed so as you start printing you may lay down your first few layers nice and flat but after you've gone a little while you end up with the corners starting to curl up and the part is starting to look more like this where it's peeling up off of the bed and these corners are rising and the reason those corners are rising again is because this top layer is shrinking and the higher you go and the more long layers you have in the direction of the print the more shrinkage you're gonna get and the more force there is going to be trying to pull this up off the bed and so this causes all kinds of problems when you're printing because if I have laid down these three layers and I'm gonna try to lay the next one my printer is going to try to lay it level right here and it's gonna collide with the sides of the print that have already raised up and it may push it down and squish the plastic on top but it can't control the dimensions that way because of the pressure or it may actually collide with these edges and knock this part clean off the bed and you very rapidly end up with a whole plate of spaghetti which is usually not what you're looking for when you're trying to do a 3d print so how do you overcome this you know all materials are gonna shrink are gonna try to do this to some extent abs is far worse than PLA or especially pet G which has very little shrink at all so how do you combat this there's basically three things you can do you can try to increase the adhesion to the bed so that the part the adhesion to the bed can resist this lifting force you can try to control the thermal life cycle of the part during the print to try to reduce the forces as they're rising or you can also modify the geometry of the part and change the parts so that the forces are not as great and I'll show you some tricks for how to do that now bette adhesion is where most people start and unfortunately it's also where most people stop this is a heated bed off of one of my 3d printers this is off on my 12 inch printer I don't know if you can see that but there are little tiny copper traces in the board so this is just a PC board and the power is fed down here and there's big traces that carry it around and then there are little traces that snake their way around the board going back and forth just conducting that electricity across the surface of the board and in this case it's the bottom surface of the board and the current flowing through this produces heat which then heats up this PC board now it's got another layer of copper on top but that's really just to spread the heat and then it has some very nice graphics advertising the company that sold it to me and then you don't print directly on this you print on some kind of surface on the top and the most common surface on you know budget or RepRap based 3d printers is glass in this case this is a sheet of borosilicate glass and in fact it's dirty right now and it just sits on top of this and the glass is heated and the reason you use the glass so you have a nice flat surface or a planar surface so that as the printer moves around especially on a large bed like this it can be the same height off the glass in every portion of the print bed if the print bed is warped then you can't get an even first layer because it's simply not flat and then you need to have some kind of surface on this that the plastic or the material you're printing with can stick to and what I have used for years and years and years is hairspray and this is the stuff that use the Garnier Fructis extreme control number five and this stuff works wonders so I'm not gonna spray any in here because I don't want to get it all over my camera lenses but I generally just throw this in a shallow box or a box lid and then just make lots of passes just working my way down and you get sort of a haze on it with the first pass and then I come back with a second pass and lay it down it should be laying down just enough that it gets the surface wet on the second pass but with no big runs and then I set it aside and let it dry I just put it on the printer and let it heat up and that'll dry it right away and that puts a surface on the glass that ABS in particular will adhere to when it prints and you can clean it off between prints but I find that as long as the surface doesn't get damaged and you don't end up lifting any of it off with the print the longer you can use it without damaging it the better it gets the more this bakes on the better the surface becomes and you can i've got glass especially if i'm praying the same part over and over again i'll just rotate the glass every few prints or i'll have two sheets of glass and i'll pull one off and put another one on and put the part in every time i put it back on I rotate it the this hairspray surface can last a long time I've done twenty thirty prints on a cone hairspray I've also had a completely peel off after one print so you just kind of have to figure out what works for you now that's one surface that people put on the print beds another surface is Pei now in this case I've got a sheet of glass and then I have a sheet of Pei plastic adhered to it with 3m adhesive and see if I can get this where you can see the edge yeah that's difficult to see but there's a sheet of glass on the bottom and then a sheet of Pei plastic on the top and this material is particularly good with ABS because you get this it's a nice smooth just glassy smooth surface you do have to adhere it to glass so that it will stay flat because it's flexible you get this to 95 degrees heated bed or maybe a hundred depending on how on all the conditions of your print and the ABS will stick to this really well and it'll hold down probably better than the hairspray in most cases but again it depends on the circumstances I've found and then when it cools it's possible to peel it off though it still sticks pretty well when it cools with the hairspray I find that just the shrinkage of the plastic generally will pop it off of the hairspray and since that shrinkage is across the glass and it's a shear force it tends to pop free without damaging the hairspray where if you come back when it's hot and peel it up you tend to lift the hairspray off the glass and have to replace the coating now one caution about PGI is if you go too hot you go to I found a hundred Celsius or higher you may never get it off I mean you literally may bond the ABS so hard to the plastic that you can't get it off without damaging it you certainly can get it stuck so hard you can't get it off without breaking the part now there are lots of other things that are out there you can buy glasses with coatings on them you can buy glasses glass that's later laser etched you can buy there's a brand build tack and then every printer manufacturer is gonna have their print surface and I'm sure a lot of those work but if you go in and look at the reviews for any of these build surfaces the PGI sheet the build tack any of the other print build surfaces you will find glowing reviews that say it is the best thing in the world and you will find reviews to say this stuff doesn't work at all and the reason why that is is because bed adhesion is only a part of the picture there are other factors involved in printing particularly abs without warping without delamination so one of the things that makes a huge difference is how your first layer gets laid down when you lay down your first layer of plastic you're laying around extrusion against a flatbed so if you've got your flat glass here and you're laying I'm looking at this in very enlarged cross-section and you're laying strands of filament on the bed like this you end up with a very small contact patch on the bottom because this layer is being printed too high the strands are big and round and only on the very bottom of the round portion is it actually touching the bed and adhering and when you print this way with your first layer too high you get very poor bed adhesion because you have only these little areas of surface area in contact with the bed if on the other hand you lay it down lower than these squish out on the glass and you end up with really wide contact patches with only small gaps in between and so this gives you a lot more surface area for adhesion so when you do this when you get it squished down thoroughly on the glass then you get better adhesion because you've got more surface area now of course there's a limit to how far you can go because ultimately you start extruding too much plastic it starts piling up on each other you get the kind of chainmail looking bottom surface on your prints and then there's too much material and it messes up the other layers so getting the first layer laid down accurately on the bed is half the game regardless of what surface you're printing on and there's lots of ways to do this most printers come with instructions that tell you to level the bed and adjust the Z end stop so you can move the head around on the bed and you can measure you can put a piece of paper shim under and there's wheels to turn it even better than that is auto bed leveling and there are systems that have a metal bed that have an inductive sensor and it'll bring the head out and bring that sensor down and probe different places on the bed and figure out what the height is I actually prefer to go old-school this is one of my extruders and it has a little servo with an arm with a micro switch on it and so in order to do the bed leveling the servo kicks this down and it probes around and uses this switch to probe the surface of the printbed whatever that is and then kick back up so I preheat the bed first so it look span to its final position and then I drop this and have it probe the bed and I'm using the grid bed leveling in Marlin firmware where it goes around and it probes 9 different points and then it knows not only the height of the bed but it knows about any tilt in the bed and it then does a plane or fit so that it will try to print from that build surface and in fact if it is tilted to one side it'll adjust and build the part you know off diagonally into space so it's perpendicular to the bed and so that allows you to get the first layer laid down tightly to the bed the way you want and you can tweak this you know in hundredths of a millimeter to get it adjusted and then it stays adjusted because every time you print it probes the bed again now the reason I say I like the old school switch instead of the inductive sensor is the inductive sensor doesn't read the glass or doesn't read the printing surface it reads the metal plate underneath it so if you swap out your glass in this case if I swap out a sheet of glass for a sheet of glass with PGI on it it's now 2 millimeters thicker and my Z height will be wrong but if I'm using the switch probe it comes down probes the top surface and prints so I set my printer up probably five years ago as you're at it haven't touched it since swap out the surface different sheets of glass different thicknesses whether it's window glass or a borosilicate glass or has a PGI sheet on top doesn't matter just drop it in hit print and the Z height is always perfect one other thing that's worth mentioning is sometimes you want to print with a really high layer height in my case for printing these face filled parts I want to print as quickly as possible so I want to print with a point three eight millimeter layer height which is not particularly good for getting good adhesion on the first layer so in the slicer I can set it to run the first layer shorter like I have the first layer printed at 80% and then all the rest of the layers at normal height with pet G you don't want to do that because it'll roll off the bed and gum up the nozzle so I actually have pet G my first layer set to one hundred and twenty percent because pet G works very well when you lay it down and thick strands high up on the glass so we talked about bet adhesion let's talk about the thermal lifecycle of the part now the problem is as the part gets taller and as we lay down the plastic these top layers are shrinking well if you can control that if you can keep the whole part warm you can prevent or you can reduce the amount of shrinking which then reduces the amount of force pulling up on the corners of your print now the great way to do this is with a heated chamber and if you look at commercial 3d printers like industrial 3d printers this is exactly how they do it the whole print bed and the whole print area and the head and everything is in a chamber that is heated up to a point where it is just below the freezing temperature of the plastic so it's melted and extruding out and then there's lots of air moving so that it can rapidly cool the the plastic to just below the freezing point so it solidifies but then it holds it at that temperature and everything in here there's not necessarily even a heated bed on the bottom of the print the whole chamber is hot and it keeps the part warm and it keeps it uniformly warm so you get much less shrinking which means you have less force which means you need less bed adhesion to get a successful print now on the kinds of printers that most hobbyists have we have to settle for just a heated bed and the heated bed still helps and in this case you know we've got our heated bed here underneath the part and it is heating up the glass and this does a couple of things one is it makes the material that we have on the glass like the hairspray or the PGI sheet at those higher temperatures you know 100 degrees Celsius 95 degrees for abs I run up to 110 Celsius it makes it adhere very well to the ABS part and then later when the glass cools this plastic the material that's on the bed kind of lets go of the plastic so often I'll let it cool after a print and then I'll come in and the parts just sitting on it while it had enough forced to hold down the corners while it was being printed because the bed was hot and the bed to a lesser degree heats the air above it and heats the part and tries to keep the whole part warm but of course this all falls apart if you have a draft it doesn't matter that you have a hot bed that's radiating heat up into the part if you have cool air blowing across the bed cooling the top part of the part that you're printing now sometimes you'll have a cooling fan as a part of the printer if you're trying to print fine details you need to get the plastic to solidify quickly just know if you do that you were gonna be fighting bed adhesion because you're gonna be cooling the part which is gonna cause it to pull off of the bed and so you know sometimes you'll print the first five layers before you turn the fan on this is something you're always gonna be trading off factors and you may have to play with quite a bit to get success if you need the cooling for detail and you need good bet adhesion because you have a large part now drafts are everything if you have an open 3d printer so in my case I've got both of my printers in a spare bedroom in my house and I have taken pains to try to reduce any drafts or any airflow I keep the room to the door of the room shut especially because I'm trying to control the ventilation with the window and with the HVAC fan blowing into the room trying to keep the fumes out of the rest of the house but also I'm trying to control where the air flows in the room so I actually have a heat deflector on the floor register so that when the air comes out it doesn't go up the wall and land on the printbed it goes across the floor instead so that that cool air especially in the summertime when it's air conditioning doesn't end up on to the bed the other thing that you need to worry about is spill air from whatever cooling you have on your hot ends so again this is my extruder design and I've gone to great lengths to control that spill air you need air flow across the heat breaks across the heat sinks on the hot end to keep it from melting down and to keep it so you have a sharp heat break so the filament melts down in the hot end and it doesn't melt in the feed tube and so you have to have air but what I've done is I've mounted the fan on the back facing up and I'm sucking the air in through a pair of ducts that then draw air at ambient at ambient pressure in across the front of the hot end and this ends up resulting in very little air movement that could blow down on to the bed now lots of hot ends like the Venerable III dv6 have a fan this is not the right kind of fan but a fan right on the front here just spinning away sucking air in and blowing it across the hot end and there's two problems with that one is that that air has to go out the back and it has to go somewhere and lots of printers like the ones that I have have a plate on the back here and so that air after it goes through the hot ends redirects and goes straight down onto the bed and cools the print even if you can handle that which I have with a duct here and on my printers upstairs I have a different configuration but I have a duct to route that air up you still have the fan on the front and as these blades spin you get vortices that blow off of the tips of those blades and actually blow some of the air out the front and away from the fan so if you have this the way it's oriented on the printer and you take your hand and you pass it underneath with the fan running you can actually feel the cold air blowing on the back of your hand and so this is what I would recommend on your printer is power up the fans power up the hot ends make sure you don't touch them they're hot hence the name but run your hand underneath it and see if you can feel any air blowing down on the bed and if you can find a way to stop it I've taped aluminum foil around it I on my printer upstairs I have capped on tape that I have around the front on the insulator and up the sides I kind of make a little dish on the front that allows the air to be drawn in from above but doesn't allow it to blow down onto the bed do whatever you can to reduce that draft on the bed so if you can feel the air moving on the back of your hand which is actually quite sensitive then you have a problem and you need to figure out how to stop that if you want to keep your if you want to keep your your your prints adhered to the bed especially with ABS because any cool air is too gonna make this worse well that one factor destroy your print yeah maybe depends on the circumstances but anything that you can do to keep the thermal life cycle this part as stable as possible so you don't get a lot of cooling up high during the print the better and I've even done things like put foam board around the sides of the printer just to try to create a pseudo heated chamber you can buy foil lined you know fireproof kind of tints to go over 3d printers to try to reduce this but anything you can do will help keep in mind if you trap too much heat in your printer depending on the design you may end up start melting things these motors on my extruder tend to run fairly warm and they are bolted to an ABS plastic part so if I increase the temperature around this and they run even hotter I run the risk of slumping the plastic in the in the frame of the extruder even if we have good adhesion to the bed and even if we've done everything we can to control drafts and control the thermal cycle of the part during the print sometimes it just is not enough and these parts are kind of classic examples that are very very difficult to print in this case I've got some very long tails on this part with very long filament strands over a long distance and a very small amount of area for bed adhesion and so as this shrinks it's gonna peel and you can see on this particular print when this band on the back printed it peeled up and popped off of the bed and you can see the damage that occurred here and this the inside of the band delaminated because what happened is and this was down on the bed and then as it was printing it came free and popped up suddenly and then the nozzle kept coming over the top trying to print and it kept moving around and settled into a position where we squeezed some plastic out the sides and ultimately you know was over like this but then it popped out but then the upper layers were printed where the part should have been if it were still adhered to the bed and we get this kind of gnarly mess on the back and so this is a kind of a scenario where may not be enough everything that you can do may not be enough to get this part to stick down on the bed this part is the same way we've got a 20 millimeter high piece of plastic with a very small amount of bed adhesion on the back and so here's one that I started printing and I got about this far and realized that these pieces on the back you can see we're already starting to peel up and I realized this was not gonna work in the long run so I went ahead and aborted this print and I started playing around with modifying the part now there's lots of things you can do to modify the part now if it's a part that you're designing like this camera support arm from one of my 3d printers you can make modifications to the design because you're designing the part and in this case this is one of my favorite tricks is to put a bunch of holes in the in the part to break up the long strands so if we go back to the part we were trying to make earlier if the part is large and rectangular like this if I can just put a bunch of holes in it the part may end up retaining the majority of its strength but we break up those long strands that would have caused a problem so first couple layers go down but then the next layer up is just a bunch of short bits and because there are no strands going the full length of the part there's nothing to shrink there's just a tiny bit of shrinkage force right here but you don't have the big shrinkage force across the top of the part that actually was going to cause the whole thing to warp and what ends up happening is you end up you know building up all of these layers and you get a significant distance up the surface of the part before you then have a long strand that's gonna try to shrink and by that time if you've built enough rigidity into the part by building it up that far you might get away with this and be able to finish the print without it actually breaking the corners off the bed and that's exactly what I did with this part it was printed in this orientation with some support material which was green polystyrene back when I was playing with that with the dual extruder it was a mess I don't recommend it I didn't work for me but the problem I was having is this was solid and as it built up started shrinking and curling up and just popping right off of the support material are pulling the support material off the bit adding these holes in the part completely solved it because all the forces that we're warping it are gone so that's a handy little trick but sometimes you you can't do that because it's not your part and that's the case here I didn't have the luxury of modifying the part at least I couldn't modify the part permanently one of the things that I could have done is gone into my slicer and told it to add a brim and so then what it does you can do a raft but most of the time you don't need a raft these days that's a whole platform that it builds up and builds the part on top of a brim is one layer of plastic it just expands a little brim think like a hat brim around the outside of the part that then gives it more surface area to hold that first layer down and that generally works very very well in fact in some cases if you're printing hot on PEI sheet you may struggle to get it off but it can hold it down and can solve adhesion problems the problem that I find with that especially on a part like this or especially on a part like this is you get all that material in there and then you have to clean it off because I can't deliver this to the customer with that sharp brim on it and so that's where Mouse ears come in and this is a technique that I have started using I'll show it here it's easier to see on this part where I actually have added a disc of plastic out here on the corner this corner would normally lift up so I've added a round disc of plastic in this case it's 20 millimeters in diameter two layers thick this one up in here is only fifteen millimeters I've got some other parts that I was printing on a PGI bed and these have got only 10 millimeter discs added in several different places and these can easily be removed so they add just a little bit of surface area to hold it down but then when you're ready to take it off you can just pinch them off and then generally and generally it comes off fairly clean and I can just break these off of the corner so you can roll around this there just pinch it off and that may leave a little bit of residue a little bit of a sharp edge and you can just use one of these which is deburring tool and just slice that off these are normally used for deburring plastic and you can see they just take off a tiny little shaving see if I can drop this down here where you can see it they just take off a tiny little shaving of plastic from the edge and cleans up that edge so that it's no longer sharp just like that and one swipe and it's nice and clean so for this kind of a part that ends up being really convenient because you can very rapidly just slice those off in some cases you can just slice them off and if you even with a brim you can often slice a brim off with one of these tools I've got a cheap one that's up stairs on my inside shop made of plastic made by Chef Eve this one's actually a more expensive tool made by Noga I'll throw some links down in the description these are fantastic also if your first layer squishes on the plastic and leaves a sharp edge on the bottom edge of your print you can just take this swipe at once across and it just peels that off nice and clean so I highly recommend these for cleaning up 3d prints so the putting these Mouse ears on is not it's not obvious how to do that obviously you could modify the STL file but generally you don't even have to do that let's pop into the computer open up simplify 3d and I'll show you how I add these mouse ears to the parts this is my slicer this is simplified 3d and you can see I have the part pulled in here and this is the perusal rc3 US version face shield headband now in this case the part the reason that I have so much trouble printing it you can kind of see if I get down here on the bottom is that the surface area that binds this down to the bed that actually sticks to the bed is really narrow there's some area up in here but man back here there's just nothing there's just nothing holding it and so it's very very difficult to to keep this down especially since this is relatively tall 20 millimeters thick and you got lots of long strands up here on the top to provide force to try to peel it off the bed and so there are a couple of things we can do I can go in here to edit process settings and I can go to the additions and I can say let's just add a skirt our brim in this case I'm gonna say five outlines one layer and now if I prepare to print what this does you can see down here is it's added a skirt around the outside of the part so the first layer it's printing the part but then it's also putting these additional five extrusions around it to give it a little brim and that it builds the part up on top from there and so you then have to come back and peel this off and you can see it goes around all these edges it goes back up in these small openings and it ends up being a pain to remove this from the whole part for simple parts it's relatively easy to remove you can zip that off with a deburring tool for other parts it's not so simple and so this may be really convenient for you but or it may may be necessary to get this much adhesion to keep this down of course you can make this as wide as you want but for this part it would be a pain to remove and we don't need that much so I'm going to use the mouse ear technique now what I have is a separate STL file that I'll just drag in here and drop and this is just a part that is ten millimeters in diameter and one layer one typical layer point two millimeters thick and so it's just going to extrude that and lay down one layer of plastic on the bed and what we can do then is we can move that where we need extra adhesion so ctrl click and simplify 3d I can move that to here and ctrl-c ctrl-v to make a copy and just lay put these under all the points where I need more vet adhesion and so then when we slice this the very first layer gets combined and we end up with this extra footprint that holds it down to the bed and then the rest of the part gets built up on top of that and this provides a little extra bed adhesion you can see from the bottom here this provides extra bed adhesion that helps that to stay down on the glass now in this particular case that did not actually end up being enough because what happened is as soon as I did that and anchored these corners then as this thing started shrinking you start popping free in other areas this area up here started popping free so then I had to add some additional add some additional Mouse ears up here and then this band on the front started popping free and I ended up having to add additional bits up there and so adding a couple Mouse ears up here and on each of the points ended up being plenty if I was printing on a PEI bed but in the other scenario where I was printing on a sheet of glass I didn't end up needing anything on the front but these small circles on the back were not enough so what I did is just double click on this and you can go in here and change I'll uncheck uniform scaling and let's say I want to make this 20 millimeters by 20 millimeters and simplify 3d will scale that up and I can move it into position you know wherever I want that and in this case it was starting to still peel so I made it two layers thick I know on this model I'm printing 0.3 eight millimeter layers so I can say 0.76 and now I have two layers prepare to print and take a look at that you can see there's the first layer laid down and then the second layer laid on top of it and then we just end up building the part up above that now for some materials this might be really difficult to remove especially with something like pet G because the material is so tough with ABS the stress riser situation is such that you can just easily fold this and it'll snap right off and whatever edge you have left you can just clean up with a deburring tool nice and easy and of course you can go around and add as much additional material as you want just keep in mind anything you has to then later be removed and so it's always a trade-off you want to get just enough material added to get the bet adhesion that you need but no more because you're gonna have to clean these up and in this case I'm printing literally hundreds of these headbands and so I'm doing a lot of cleaning so every little bit of labor I can save makes a big difference and there you have it in this case in order to squeeze these onto the bed of course I had to have one pad cross over to different parts here so it's a little bit harder to snap out but you can still generally just grab it and even the thicker ones you just bend back and forth especially with abs and they just snap right off come back and clean up those edges with a deburring tool and your parts good to go so I think the most important thing to take away from this is that you're unlikely to find that one weird trick that solves all of your abs printing woes it really is about the system and every detail matters but with some attention to detail and with making trade-offs and small tweaks you can be very successful printing with the material that many people find problematic well that's it for today if you are enjoying these videos please give me a thumbs up feel free to subscribe to the channel and leave me a comment I'd like to know what you think thank you for watching you [Music]

Channel: Clough42

Views: 230,420

Keywords: ABS, 3D Printing, Bed Adhesion, PEI, Build Surface, Borsilicate Glass, Filament, eSun

Id: DQu0ThBS4MY

Length: 38min 59sec (2339 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 26 2020