Creality Ender-3 S1 - 3D Printer - Unbox & Setup

hey guys in this video we got the creality Ender 3s1 so I've done the review on the S1 Pro and that was a great printer but the S1 here might be a better value as you do get most of the features in this non-pro version so in this video we're gonna unbox it set it up and do some prints hope you guys enjoy let's get started [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] so the Ender 3 has lots of names now and the S1 series is the most ambitious that it's been for the Ender so on the front here we got a picture of what the printer looks like the dimensions of the box and the shipping label says 12 kilograms which is about 25 pounds so let's go ahead and open it up foreign and this is what we see on top so we got a piece of paper here that says warm tip and on the bottom it says retraction speed 35 to 45 millimeters and retraction distance for pla is 0.8 millimeters which is practically nothing and for materials like TPU two millimeters so if this is your first time printing with a direct drive extruder this paper here reminds you that retractions should be very small under one millimeters all right so we got the usual dark soft foam and this is what we see on the top so we got quite a few pieces here but with that said this should be a pretty straightforward assembly as most of the main components are pre-assembled so right on top here we got a coil of filament to get you started not too crazy about these as they get tangled but you do have something to get you going with we got our power cord which is US type looks to be about four feet our spool holder and this is a top mount that Clips onto the channel and the filament detector is already connected to it now there's another piece of the spool holder which connects to Hero it's quite simple and you can put it on either side but obviously with our filament detector being here it will go here so here we have the main piece which is direct drive extruder and it's all combined with the hot end very nicely constructed so this looks just like the pro version except for a couple things stand out which this whole extruder piece here is made in a plastic material instead of metal like the pro but it all still feels really good and solid and practically identical it looks like to the design of the pro which is a good sign we do have a CR touch here pre-installed Parts cooling fan very nice silicone sock on the heater block got a junction board on the back of it and just a very nicely built direct drive hot end assembly and our main cord will plug in here on the top with a string relief we got a Ziploc bag with a bunch of stuff in there and we'll go through it in a second well it looks like here we got a few more pieces this is our mount for the screen and also another clip I go somewhere on the printer for wire routing and right under here we do have the display and this is where this bracket here connects to on the back of it here and that's our connecting Port so yeah this is a pretty typical Ender Style display with the rotary knob so it's not a touch screen but you do everything through here which works really well on the other printers and one thing that kind of stands out is this trim piece is not black but like a really gray blue color which is interesting all right so that's this layer here and below that we got the Gantry and the base underneath so I'm not sure if they're going to be tethered okay so they are not so the Gantry which is the upper portion of the printer it's quite nice it's got flat channels which is a good look and if we flip it around you guys can see we have dual z-axis motors which is great for stability and even z-axis movements but what's even better is that we have a belt here on top that tethers them together so if this side moves the other side also does through this belt which is the right way to do it in my opinion and I'm glad they implemented this as this makes it very simple and quite reliable overall so we're going to look at all the details and features a little bit later in the video let's go ahead and pull our base out which is a pretty interesting design and again we got that Bluey gray theme on the front here as the cover and also if you guys can see we have a steel PE sheet on the top and these are probably one of the best build plate materials you can have and yeah very nice clean low profile and again guys we're gonna take a closer look in more detail here in a bit so that is everything for the box as you guys can see everything was very well packed as usual so let's move this out of the way and we'll bring the base back in and I'm going to pull off the build plate for now so we don't get it greasy or dirty we'll flip the printer upside down and we're under here because I want to show you guys these nice rubber feet and also just a clean design we've got some venting underneath and these pretty cool brackets here that clip into the channel that route the wires on both sides very nice touch so I think I want to go ahead and open up this back plate so we can see what's underneath so let's go ahead and go through what's inside this baggie so we do get a warranty card with after sale service a quick start installation guide which is on the small side and it's actually a pamphlet that unfolds and we got step by step instructions there on how to put it together and get it going so honestly I'd prefer a book but this works fine also so we do get some creality stickers a spatula that's not sharpened and you don't want to use this to scrape on the bed as it won't do anything for that but this could be useful to kind of like go underneath the nozzle maybe like try to get a booger out or something but here we have another bag with a bunch of other stuff in it which we have the z-axis limit switch with a wire now I'm not sure if this is an option okay yes I think this is an optional part as it says it's a spare part so this is if you were not going to use the BL touch you would need to install this but because this printer does come with the CR touch should I say which is the probe you won't need this but it's nice that they included it as you can revert back to a more manual operation we get a extra nozzle which looks like a 0.4 millimeter our full size SD card a gig with the USB adapter here we have a baggie of volts which is the hardware to put the printer together a clean out needle which is in this foam to protect you from getting poked we also get some Cutters pretty generic but very nice to have especially cutting to filament on an angle before feeding it in and for the last part here we got a little baggie of tools which comprises of some Allen wrenches a double-ended wrench and also a little small wrench and this is for the nozzle and a little flat screwdriver so let's go ahead and get the right size and take these little bolts out which appears to be nine of them all right and that should be all of them okay and it looks like we might have to take out the storage box that's underneath here which by the way is huge there we go and we do have a fan connected to the bottom and where the storage slides in is actually here part of the back case and it's all metal quite interesting all right this is what it looks I like underneath and you guys can see it's quite minimalistic here we got this whole area here for the storage that goes in here and I like how they got these wires very nicely routed and these clips hold the wire to the channel so this is the main board it does have an arm processor and you guys can see the stepper drivers they are integrated and got little heatings on them and I don't see any model number on the board so not too sure what it's called but yeah very nicely organized here with the wiring you guys can see how everything flows and we got these holders here everywhere that hold the wires down to the channel so this printer does use a creality branded power supply which is a 350 watt 24 volt and over here we have the power input to the supply and also the on and off switch and also the cooling fan is quite large that cools off the board so yeah very nicely put together and built so I'm going to put the lid back on we'll flip it around and start the assembly so assembling the S1 is much simpler than it looks and if we look at the manual there's only a few steps and they actually want us to start off with putting the hotend assembly onto the x-axis cradle and also the clip but I think what we're going to do is Skip to putting the upper portion to the base first and then we'll go back and do this and then we'll install our screen following by the spool holder and believe it or not guys that's pretty much it so let's go ahead and grab our bolts and you guys can see we got a few in here so connecting the Gantry to the base we'll use these large black bolts and we're going to need four of them but they do include an extra one just in case you need it so if you guys maybe can tell but there's little cutout grooves on each side of the base and that's where the Gantry is going to sit and the bolts go through the bottom in to the channel so it kind of Falls in let's go ahead and go sideways so however you got to do this but basically you grab a bolt and you go underneath so you can go off the edge of the table or you can even put something underneath to pry it up and I got a box of filament here that we can do that with you guys can see it's quite easy now let's get it started so you're going to need the largest wrench and all I'm going to do is just run them down and not tighten it yet and we'll flip around to the other side and do the same thing here so I'm just running down for now and the reason for that is because we want to run the x-axis all the way down and so I'm just going to use the belt here in the back too move it up and down or you can just grab a coupler and turn it the belt makes it a lot quicker and the reason we're going down is because we want the spacing between this Channel and this one to be as close as possible to what's already adjusted here if we bring this down which by the way there's something taped here to the side a wire we can get a more precise distance between the two channels and now we can go ahead and snug them up underneath so you want to go you know relatively tight but you do have a lot of Leverage with this wrench so be careful not to over tighten it and same thing on the other side and as simple as that we got the upper portion connected to the base so let's bring this back up a bit and now we'll go to the other steps which first one is to install the hot end assembly onto this cradle I'm going to turn this thing so if we look at this assembly we can see here on the side we have one two three little brass threads there and those actually will line up right here on this bracket just like that so it kind of sits in there and drops in it actually holds itself and the bolts that we need are in this little bag called M36 and I believe there are four of them so yeah pretty straightforward just putting the bolts through snug them all up and that's it now our hot end assembly is connected to the Cradle on the x-axis so we also have this clip that goes here on the back and we'll install it when we do the wiring let's go ahead and install the display which goes right here and we can go ahead and remove the bracket and if you guys can see there's a little cut out here and these little grooves here actually go into that slot yeah we need three of these m418 bolts which will go through the bracket and then into the channel I'm going to prop this up so it's a little easier and maybe you guys can see a little better but yeah again pretty straightforward and everything kind of falls into place and the last one on the bottom and that's it and now all we got to do is plug in the display here in the back with this wire that comes out from underneath just like that and then we can just clip it on there and that's it so for the next part we're going to be installing this spool holder and one thing I noticed here is that on the filament detector it doesn't say which was in and out so I'm guessing the plug goes out away or maybe it doesn't really even matter and there's a brass bushing on each end so yeah the way this thing mounts it just Clips onto the channel so you just simply put it over and then clip it down yeah it just Clips over and goes down just like that we can go ahead and plug that in it just comes out of the channel here on the top yeah you just want to align this part of the spool closer to the middle of the printer so we probably need to go to the side a little more and the reason you want it more towards the middle I guess we are a little limited here on this wire but in any case the closer you get to the middle the more even the filament will be distributed between the two ends of the hot end so because you don't want to you know have it way too much this way where the filament will kind of try to do this because as it goes higher and higher it's going to really Bend and even though this can turn you know you want to center it up so it has the least amount of stress as it's running through and believe it or not guys that's pretty much everything that we need to install I'm gonna go ahead and throw these wrenches in here and I went ahead and put the rest of the tools in here and all the other things that came with the printer very nice large compartment and so the only thing we've got left to do is just plug the wiring in so let's go to this side and you guys can see we got a main cable that comes out the side of the printer about Midway we got some wires and these are for the X motor and the X end stop switch so the X motor plugs in right here let's go ahead and plug it in and then the x-axis and stop switch is underneath here and we'll go ahead and plug that in and so this wire continues to go around and you guys can see there's a little sticker here that shows that it goes into this little clip and this just literally slides in onto this bracket here and maybe you guys can see the little rails there so like this with the hook pointing down and so this part here can literally go right into here and the other end will plug it into the hot end let's go ahead and twist back around first you want to open up these tabs here and then as you insert it they'll close onto the plug and kind of Clips on and also we have the strain relief here in the back that we kind of have to insert the flat wire into and just like that we're going to make sure it has a good reach which is a great plenty of slack everything seems perfect so that's how this wire goes on now if we go back around to the same side you guys can see our x-axis motor here is not connected yet and the wire is taped down to the base and we can go ahead and plug that in so this is one of our z-axis motor and we have another on the other side the Y is already all connected so let's go ahead and connect this one now this one connects a little differently as the motor is already connected to this little extension and if we look here on the corner we can see here there's a junction there's like some rubber caps on here that we need to take off and so the first one says z-axis so that's going to be for this motor the next one over which is the middle one is an expansion port and this is a 24 volt power supply which for the pro model Powers the light bar and so since this one doesn't have the light bar we're just going to leave that empty and the last one over is the filament detector which comes here out of the bottom of this rail this wire here that was taped to the side that we untaped earlier and that's simply going to plug at the other end and we could probably use this cover here to cover up that middle Port since we're not going to use it and use the snippers here to cut off the other pieces so it's nice and clean and we're not going to have dirt going into the socket so yeah and as simple as that guys that is all our wiring also the one here underneath for the display so we're not quite done yet because we need to check a few things so like our rollers and our belts so let's start with the rollers here on the bed so we have two stationary and two adjustable with the eccentric nuts and if we go here to the side and maybe I'll take this off real quick so it's kind of out of our way and you can do this you know before you assemble the whole thing also if you guys can see there's two rollers there and there's eccentric nuts and so what I like to do is go with my fingers underneath and spin the roller in one spot to check how much tightness there is and actually mine are kind of tight or at least tighter than I would like them and so you're going to grab this double ended wrench that's included and we're simply just going to turn the eccentric nut a little bit to get farther and closer away from the channel alright so I loosen that one a bit and now we'll go to the one in the back and loosen it and that feels a little better and so what you're trying to get is where the roller can kind of spin in one spot when you do a little burnout if it's too tight you won't be able to turn it in one spot if it's too loose whole bed will wobble so you want to tighten it up ever so slightly where the bed doesn't wobble and there's not so much tension around the Channel with the rollers because if it's too tight it's going to wear them out and plus you're not going to get a very nice smooth roll so I think I'm pretty happy with that so the other thing we can do is we can also adjust our tension on the belt and you guys can see mine is quite loose so we got a knob here up front but be careful not to over tighten it if you're too tight you might get some vibrations into the build plate you guys can't really see this or I can't really show it but on this end here if you look kind of like from the back this way you can see the roller inside and see if it lines up and for the back there's a little site right here that you can see how it lines up there so on mine it's fine it's not on the edge then so on the front you guys can see we got a couple little bolts here that hold this plastic piece and if you do need to adjust this you can grab a wrench and loosen this and then offset it and tighten it where you need it and you might want to check this anyway because mine was already quite loose and so that's how you can adjust this piece here to line up the The tensioning Idler pulley inside to Center the belt on it and for the belt you don't want it you know too tight because if you make it too tight you can literally play music on if you hear notes that's too tight so yeah all that looks good right there I'm going to put the screen back on and now we can flip around looking at the back we have the same situation here with the rollers on the hot end there's two stationaries on top and one adjustable on the bottom and so on mine here they're a little tight so we need to loosen it and there we go that feels much better so this should be pretty free and feel really nice and smooth and have no wobble in it again if you're too tight you want to loosen them up and if you're too loose and Wobbles tighten them up a bit so we do also have rollers here on the side that roll on these channels and these are not as critical but you want to you know get them close as long as they kind of spin it's good so on mine everything seems to be pretty decent and they all spin you don't want to mess too much with these unless they're just binding like crazy because you'll never really get them perfect and because the z-axis moves so slow and so little these are definitely not as critical and also I didn't mention that we do need to check our belt here on the x-axis which actually is pretty good right there I think and it feels really smooth that's what we want to see and feel I don't really like how we can't see the rollers in here or in here which makes it kind of a mystery if they're running true or not it does feel smooth so I'm gonna think everything is fine in there I wish they would have made little sights on the top or the side or somewhere where you could at least glance at it now I know that you can take this cover off to see there's a bolt here and a bolt on the bottom if you are curious but the one on here is completely sealed and you can't really take it apart easily but yeah we're pretty much done with putting everything together and checking the rollers and belts so for the next part let's take a closer look at the S1 all right so yeah the printer looks quite nice on the table here it's not too large it's a medium format but it is a little bit larger than like an ender three so let's start here on top we got the spool holder and you guys saw how it mounted quite simple it just comes right off and clips on got the filament detector we got brass inserts for wear protection all of our channels are smooth here on the front very nice and clean flipping around to the back we can see we got dual z-axis lead screws and they are tethered with this belt and you can't just tug on this belt to go up and down here you guys can see where the wire goes to the filament detector and it's routed down this Channel all the way to the bottom and then plugs into this Junction the supports on the top are plastic but they do have bearings there and going down all this is a metal same thing on this side you guys can see where the wire clip clipped in pretty simple very nice and clean Design This is Our x-axis motor and we plugged it in here on the bottom and also the x-axis switch on the bottom there so two z-axis Motors one on each side with the coupler the motors do kind of float from the bottom they are connected with a plastic bracket to the channel here we can see the back of the hot end a little better and this is the roller we adjusted with the eccentric nut being underneath here and you can guys see the fan blowing underneath the nozzle there the heat block silicone over it and also our CR touch over there going down we can see our y-axis Channel and this is the mounting here y-axis motor with the in-stop switch and to this side we can see the junction where we plugged everything in our motor and the filament detection and on the other side we have the manufacturing label which tells us the model number the build size 220 by 220 by 270. we also have a QR code here it says creality cloud and down from the label we got the on and off switch the power input Port it is fused and from the back here we got a cable that comes out through the bed and it's very strained relief feels heavy duty and looking at the very back you guys can see here we have a sticker that shows us the power voltage selector so you guys probably can't see very well but we are on 230 right now we need to go to 115. I'm going to go ahead and peel this thing and we're going to grab the little screwdriver that comes with the printer yeah we're just going to toggle it to the other side and that's going to give us the 115 voltage we're going back to the front got a cap here a wire here that routes to our on-in assembly and on this side we got the adjuster for the X so on the hot end we can see how the cable comes in it Clips in right here and it's strained relief we have an arm here that releases the tension on the extruder there's a little brass fitting in there and also this is a gear that turns as it extrudes also a good little indicator to look at when it's flowing on this side here you guys can see where we put our one two three four bolts to hold it to the bracket that's the heat break there this is the motor for the extruder it's got a little inner logo in front of it our parts cooling fan does have a nice little metal shroud around it and on this side we got the CR touch with the probe and all the way over here we have the heat break fan so looking underneath you guys can see what it kind of looks like here pretty nice got the duck coming and blowing underneath the nozzle and by the way this is our X in stop switch for the hot end so going down from there we have the build plate which is this magnetic steel sheet which is a PE surface and this works very well as is the same one used in the Ender 3 version 2 Neo so I really love these because they're easy to pull off so once you're done printing you can Flex it pop the print off and start printing something else and there's a magnetic mat underneath that and as we saw earlier this is 220 by 220 and 270 tall of print volume now we do have two tabs on each side to pull it up so underneath all that we have the aluminum heated bed part and you guys can see underneath that it's not insulated which is not a big deal for this size we can see the frame is nice and thick we got Orange Springs with large adjustable knobs for adjusting the bed level the whole base of the printer is very nice and clean here we have our y belt with the adjuster and these little bolts I was talking about where you can kind of move this thing to adjust where the belt can line up on the pulley and this is our tensioner you guys can see we have this nice kind of plastic Bluey gray look some bolts here this is our full size SD card port and then we've got a USB type c port for connecting so going from there we can see here we have a pull out storage cubby and this thing is huge guys you can see how big that is and yeah I put pretty much all the things from this printer in here and you can more than easily fit all of it and yeah very nice addition to this printer and integrated seamlessly here into the style and then going to the side here we have our screen with this rotary knob and that's how you can control it there is a protector here with also a sticker reminding you to change your voltage in the back so definitely don't forget to do this as you can damage the printer if you don't check it so if you live in the United States you will be on 115 and different parts of the world is like Europe is mostly 230 so yeah make sure you do that so let's go ahead and peel this off a little glue here stuck from the sticker I guess I do like these screens overall and they're really easy to operate I wish reality would go to something a little more Slimmer as these bezels here are starting to look dated but yeah from here we pretty much got just a clean side and not much on this aside either so yeah everything looks quite good and very well built so for the next part let's go ahead and home the printer make sure all the motors and switches work and also we'll preheat it and level the bed all right so I got the printer plugged in in the back let's go ahead and power it on and it's booting up and there it goes and we can see the UI looks really nice let's go ahead and go to prepare Auto home we'll make sure all of our Motors and switches work so there we have the X the Y and the Z it's going to use this CR touch all right so it's all good there let's go ahead and preheat PLA and it starts to preheat and we can see down here our temperatures are going up on the nozzle and the bed parts cooling fan is kind of making some rubbing sounds and being a little loud and seems to be going away as it keeps running but yeah everything seems to be working which is a great sign so this is the usual creality UI it's quite simple you use the rotary knob to navigate and then click on it so this is print it's going to read the SD card and then the prepare has our move disable Stampers out of home z-axis offset reheat ABS cool down so it looks like our z-axis offset has been set to minus 2.33 so that's interesting also we got control here or temperature motion store configuration reconfiguration and the reset config so we've got info about the printer so yeah pretty basic usual creality UI and more importantly here we have the level button and so we don't want to click this yet as this activates the outer bed leveling with the CR Touch where it probes the bit first thing you want to do before you do that is go to prepare and click on move and on the Z axes we want to go all the way down to zero so after doing that we can go ahead and manual level the bed so even though this is automatic bed leveling with the CR touch you want to set your bed manually with these knobs now if your bed looks really close and and you don't want to do this part I guess you could skip it but you definitely want to do this because the flatter the build plate is the less offset the probe has to make and the better chance you're going to have a more even layer adhesion on your first layer so actually all our Motors are locked and we need to unlock them and if we go to prepare those disabled steppers and now we can move around now be very careful when pushing this down as you'll knock off the z-axis so let's go ahead and push this this way and we'll go to this corner first and I'm just going to use a postie note and so we're just going to adjust the four corners on the build plate so mine is actually pre-adjusted quite well so they seem to get this one out the door pretty close to ready to go so so on this you don't have to be perfect as long as it's pretty close as the CR touch is going to compensate for anything in between so now that we've done that let's go ahead and click on level and what that's going to do is it's going to probe the bed and take the offsets and save them into the memory and as you guys can see it double Taps and there's four points so four times four sixteen total well actually guys I'm actually noticing there's three tops one two three wow and as simple as that our bed leveling is done so the next thing we want to do is go to prepare and then go to z-axis offset and we're going to measure here and set our offset so we're at minus 2.33 and looks like I need to go down just a little bit more there we go so that feels about right and we ended up being at minus 2.80 so yeah now that we're done with that I think we're cooling off again let's go ahead and preheat pla I'm going to disable stepper so I can raise this thing up a bit well then let's go ahead and put some filament in and I got this reality branded pla mat green color very nice so let's go ahead and cut it on an angle so it's easier to feed and we're going to put it here on the spool holder run it through our filament detector and by the way there is a little light here a blue one that glows them when it's detecting and then we're going to go down into the extruder and we're going to push on the release arm to insert the filament into the teeth of the extruder so since this is a direct drive this is very simple and it's nice how it just comes down from the top so let's go ahead and Purge it through and you guys can see we got the green coming out the bottom all right so at this point we're pretty much ready to print so let's go back we do need to grab our SD card and it is an 8 gig plugs right here I love that it's a full size okay yeah so it plugs in upside down and let's see if we have any test files in there we're going to click on print and sure enough we have a couple g-codes well actually quite a few of them so we've got shake hands rabbit handle cats and another file there but I think I know what the rabbit is so let's just start with the rabbit and this color is kind of nice for that anyways so click on that and we get our printing menu so once it starts printing we're going to take a closer look at the options we have here all right and I'm going to click on tune and go to z-axis offset just in case we need to go up or down while it's printing all right so it's purging on the side and so far our offset looks perfect and there it goes all right guys so yeah first try there and everything works as expected so yeah it seems like reality never fails I'm just working right out of the box at least for me here so all right so hopefully you guys can see that but yeah here looking at the printing menu it says printing on top our file name which is rabbit the progress bar with the percentage two percent printing time and remaining and then we got two pause and stop and down here we have all of our information that's constantly there which is the hot end temperature the bed temperature the speed the flow rate the fan and the z-axis offset and on the very bottom we've got coordinates of the X Y and Z so clicking on tune we can adjust our printing speed nozzle temperature bed temperature fan speed and the z-axis offset then we got a pause and stop button if you want to cancel the print and that's pretty much it pretty simple and straightforward all right so we are Printing and it looks okay kind of getting Blobby over there a little bit but so I'm not sure how this file will slice but we'll go ahead and print it out and see how it comes out and so far everything's looking really good foreign so we printed out a couple files this little rabbit and also this flat handle looking print which was called Shake Hands and after I printed I realized what it was for but let's go ahead and look at the rabbit first so this is what the little rabbit looks like it actually looks pretty decent now it did start off a little Blobby but got a lot better as it went up so this filament doesn't seem as consistent as normal and it's kind of like a pasty finish on it which is supposed to give it the matte look so it didn't turn out as good as I would want it and we did have quite a bit of stringing on the top and because we didn't slice this print this is probably why it didn't turn out as good and also in combination with this filament it just didn't work out and so I think we do need to slice our own Prints but before we do that let's look at this point here so it's still stuck on the bed and it's completely cooled off and you guys can see that it is like a little grab handle and what this is for is for the bed let's go ahead and break it loose and you guys can see how good that works and this filament really sticks to everything it's kind of gummy and you guys can see kind of left some marks but they're not permanent just surface marks and this is what it looks like so it has some supports on the back of it and we can go ahead and break those off and we didn't clean it up perfect but this is what the handle looks like and this is actually the top which was the bottom and this actually mounts right here and so it's kind of like a little grab handle to pull out the bed even though they include the file to print this out they didn't include any bolts to mount it there are a couple holes underneath the bed and I do have this little bolt kit it's a three millimeter or M3 you got different sizes there so I'm just gonna find the right size to go through this handle and a little bit out the back so we don't want to go too much because this metal plate the aluminum is really thin so maybe I'll try a shorter one okay yeah that's perfect right there so just a little bit to grab it let's see can get this thing up a bit so maybe you guys can see there are a couple threads that this handle will attach to they are already pre-threaded all right so we got one side started and now the other now if I knew this was going to be this handle here I probably wouldn't have printed in this green but it actually looks pretty nice and this size bolt here is eight millimeters long which seems to be the perfect size for this handle so yeah there we go now we got a nice little grab handle to move the bed around and this really helps whenever it's preheated and hot and so you don't have to you know touch it here or anywhere because everything is you know really hot so if you wanted to you could print this out for yourself I'm going to try not to forget to leave a link for this kit of bolts which has been quite useful for projects like this and other things so yeah overall I think the printer is doing great everything's Printing and working so I think for the next part what we need to do is go to the computer see what's on the SD card slice our own model maybe like a benchy and a calibration Cube and we'll see how that turns out all right so here we are at the computer and I got the SD card plugged in so once we open it up we've got a few folders and a bunch of different files so g-codes the rabbit we printed and the shake hands and we also have STL files of different things not sure what this is looks almost like a foot or something but yeah we do also have a handle and that grab handle that we did print out the rabbit I guess some of these are just not rendering correctly on The View and the typical cat and we also get a PDF for the material guide of what you're printing the retraction speed of the different filaments like pla TPU and also the temperatures so the first folder here is PDF looks like in many different languages of the user manual and we opened up the Chinese version the second folder is software which includes the creality slicer looks like for Windows but you can download it for Mac also and I already have that installed and we've got some operational videos kind of help you out with certain things like Auto leveling and also the manual leveling and just a general unboxing and assembly so let's go ahead and open up creality print and this is what it looks like so you can use this or Mercure or whatever you're comfortable with so normally I use Kira but I'm going to go ahead and do creality here so first thing you want to do is choose your printer and if it's your first time it'll probably prompt you to that but we're going to go ahead and add printer and over here we can see the different things that are available and under Ender series we have the S1 here so we're going to add that let's go ahead and throw a file in there we'll do a 3D benchy you guys can see the platform here and the build volume so on the left side here you guys can see we have our different tools so right now we're on pick so if we click on move I'm going to have these little arrows and you can move it around and then you got scale same thing you can scale it up and down and you can manually enter the parameters here in millimeters or percentages you gotta rotate you can clone the model so if we clone it it's going to add another one just like it and also you can add a letter straight to your prints on top so so the more important things are going to be over here on this side we can see here we got a couple Taps so this is our configuration page and then this is our support page so if you're going to supports you can do it from here we're not going to cover that in this video but here you have a list of the models that you have on the plate and you can delete them and whatnot else import and outer arrange things like that but what we will be going through is the profile and so you have three standard ones and dynamic balance and Speedy so you can just print from here but if you click down here you can see there's a edit profile button we're going to go ahead and adjust a few things so this is just basic stuff but we're going to click on advanced settings and we can go through here all of the different parameters so under quality I'm going to change the layer height to 0.2 or a little quicker printing if you want a little cleaner but takes longer you can leave it up 0.15 in Shell we want to put the wall line count to three because that'll make our prints look better and also fill gaps everywhere I like to turn off to Nowhere you can leave that on if you want to fill the gaps under infill 20 is good here we have printing temperatures and I'm going to leave everything the way it is in speed we got 50 we'll leave it at that since we print everything in that speed but initial layer we can turn that down to 15 mean so our first layer is not too brushed they're going to travel okay enabled retractions at 0.80 we'll leave it the way it is and you can go up just a little bit or down on the distance and the speed needs to be 40 which is kind of interesting that it was on 80 from the beginning so you can also turn on combing which will kind of help with the oozing not in skin and if you hover over it it explains exactly what it does and cooling everything looks good supports you can adjust that here we're going to turn that off for this print build plate adhesion looks like they have a simple raft but I like to print with skirt depending on the size of the model usually two to three lines around but this is going to print three lines around the model and then start printing the model then we have special modes there's going to be a few layers on the bottom and then one layer all the way around and if you want to try that out like on a vase or something you can click it and Print in that mode now we also have experimental now if we go back to travel and click on Expert up here since we're on Advanced there's going to be more options that come up and if we scroll down you can see it says retract before outer wall I like to turn this off as the models get cleaner especially where there's a lot of retractions in small places we'll go back to advance and that's pretty much it so then we can just save everything we changed click save again and we're good to slice now so we're going to click on the start slice and here it's going to show us that it's going to take one hour 55 minutes and here you can look at the preview by clicking start and if you drag it you can kind of go through it quickly here and the different colors here you have explanations of which part of the print that is but yeah if you're done with everything and it looks good we're going to click on export choose our destination I'm going to go straight to the SD card and if we open it up right here so let's cancel this preview and we'll delete the benchy throw in a calibration Cube I'm going to push it back just a little bit start the slice and so this one here will take us 35 minutes so 36 and we can go ahead and save it by clicking export destination and save and that's how you slice a print here in creality print so this is kind of a quick overview hopefully it was helpful so let's go back to the printer print these prints out and see how they turn out all right so we printed out the benchy and the cube and they both turned out really well so if I haven't mentioned yet guys the screen does dim and then if you just touch the knob it comes back to life so let's take a look at the cube first so here we have the X looks pretty good not much ringing and also not much ghosting we got the Y also very clean very minor ghosting we got the X wall see a little bit of vibrations not bad at all and the white wall also quite clean the bottom looks great and that's the textured the bill plate leaves and the top also very good so yeah I mean pretty much this is what I expected out of this printer let's go ahead and check out this benchy it's still stuck to the build plate it pops off quite easily so we got the bottom looking good the side you guys can see how well those layers went down everything is quite smooth there's a little bit of layering but not too severe but there is some there you can see it practically no ghosting around here which usually shows up very minor and yeah everything just sitting really nice the walls look great going up here overhangs also very good including around the arches on the back there we can see our box has the slit and that's because we turned off the fill gaps and the top looks extremely straight and round yeah even the retraction was not bad at the 0.8 distance but maybe bumping it up to one millimeter might help a little bit as there's tiny bit of it but yeah overall very solid prints so I do want to print out more prints and especially in TPU since we do have a direct drive extruder and also we'll try out spiralized mode and see how this printer does all right guys so these are all the prints that we printed on the S1 and I do have to say this is a pretty nice printer overall it has all the right parts and design to be that one and only printer that you need so we've seen our two first prints one we installed here at the handle and then our benchy and calibration Cube turned out great so after that I printed a few more models as you guys can see we do have some PLA and TPU and all the prints were sliced in 0.2 layer height would 50 millimeters a second on the speed for the PLA and 40 millimeters a second for the TPU temperatures 200 on the nozzle and 60 on the bed and everything stuck well and I had no issues popping the prints off either so let's go ahead and start with this a little frog so this is in pla and you guys can see it looks really nice overall all the layers are sitting very evenly and it looks great and we have no stringing between the eyes and overall a very clean sharp print I can see a little bit of layering on the lower part in some sections but other than that very nice and clean especially around the little pulse here which is never easy to do so the next print we got here is also printed in pla you guys can see it's a millipede with a bunch of sections and a lot of feet so it sticks just on those little feet and you guys can see none of them failed or had any issues and printed out the whole print no problem so yeah the build plate material sticks very well and then just pops off but yeah on this print here you guys can see the layers are sitting also very nicely there is a little bit of stringy but don't forget this is a 0.8 retraction distance and we could probably bump that up to like one maybe 1.2 millimeters to clean it up even more but this is not bad at all just a little wisp searing there but overall the print itself looks very nice and uniform so the shark here also same thing a bunch of different links that come together and actually there are some function to this one you got little fins here on the bottom and this one turned out really nice also very clean and even and what you expect out of creality printers so I can't see a little bit of layering here and there not too sure exactly what that's about and it's mostly on one of the sides seems like yeah other than that it's pretty much perfect and the shark actually does have a functional Mount that should open let's see if we can crack them open there we go and it opens and you guys can see all the teeth printed out very nicely nothing broke so yeah very cool yeah pretty nice print here for the S1 so the last print in pla here is a gear this is actually a functional print that should spin up but it's frozen at this point so let's see if we can't break it by using this wrench and I can tell you guys that is a tight fit in there so it does go in but can we break it Loose nope not going so for whatever reason it fused together between the gears and I can't break it loose so it seems like we do have a bit of over Extrusion so to fix this you probably want to turn down the flow rate a bit to compensate for the extra volume of Extrusion and what's interesting is normally creality printers are more under extrude than over but this one here is a little bit over and this could be just my model or it could be the new Sprite direct drive extruder but in any case let's move on to our TPU prints and we got a couple so this octopus here was printed in TPU guys so it's kind of hard to believe but it is and see if I can squish his nose here so you guys can see it as TPU it's kind of hard to push on any part of it but he's rubbery this is a harder TPU and since there's infill every part is hard but it is rubbery and what's cool about TPU is that everything that you printed in is quite robust and you can drop it and whatnot else since you know it's rubbery but yeah pretty amazingly every little foot printed stuck and is functional even with TPU and we barely have any stringing not bad at all and you guys know if you print TPU usually stringing is a concern but here it is not and it turned out great so this was like complex TPU print that I wanted to see if this printer can't even pull off but we have a different dpu print which is this rocket and this is a softer TPU and you guys can see it did finish but it's very thin because it's in spiralized mode so we do have some pretty severe layer lines as it was bending all over the place and you guys can see how soft this is and I'm going to just bend this thing and completely folded up and it'll pop right back into a rocket so yeah we did have a little bit of trouble sticking in the beginning so I just let it print out and I wanted to see what would happen surprisingly it actually got better as it went up and even got really good towards the very top and the reason for that seems like is that the smaller the circle got the more rigidity there was or something but yeah pretty impressive for this print here all in TPU and for our lost print we got spiralized mode and by the way these two spaceships here are the full height of 270 but it looks like it can print higher maybe 280 or so but the advertised 270 is no problem whatsoever so the plane chip is still stuck to the build plate and let's see if we can break it loose okay now okay so I just ended up breaking it I didn't wanna move all these Prints but looks like we have to and now if we Flex the build plate it'll come off easy and that's the right way to do it and again guys this build adhesion type and the steel sheet is excellent this is probably one of my favorites here which is called PE and I think I might like it even better than Pei but yeah this is all in spiralized mode we did crack it in half here but no big deal so the bottom looks great got a tiny bit of stringy nothing major here well actually no I don't think this is stringy this is just excess from the nozzle when it first started but yeah if you guys look at the layer adhesion it's Practically Perfect so yeah it's paralyzed mode this thing really really is nice now there is a little bit of blobs here and there you guys probably can see those and I'm not sure what that's about now you guys probably see this almost like layers but that's just filament discoloration if you look at the Shadows you can see how even that sits so overall very even layer adhesion and even going to the point you guys can see Practically Perfect which is quite impressive normally they're melted even a bit on the top but not this one so yeah very nice spiralized print so yeah as you can see it's a great printer prints very well as expected as far as the build quality of the printer everything is well made from the spool holder up here we got a filament detection to the very nice hot end assembly with the direct drive extruder we do have the CR touch here for automatic bed leveling I like how all the cables are routed very nicely and clean the only thing on my printer here is this Parts cooling fan is on the louder side either the fan is rubbing on something or maybe it's defective but it does quiet down as it runs for a bit we do have adjustability for the belt tension on X and Y the Dual z-axis that are tethered with the belt on top is great again I love the build plate on that steel sheet very reasonable size of 220 by 220 by 270 tall full size SD card very nice and the design of the printer as you guys can see up front very cool looking I actually like it better than the S1 Pro and another thing that's awesome is this large storage tray and also the printer sitting on large rubber feet which minimize vibration and noise and this nice little display here with the rotary knob very easy to use and quite intuitive and it dust them down after a bit to preserve itself and also you get all the features like power loss recovery and overheat protection so yeah I think this printer pretty much does everything what's expected and if you wanted something with direct drive and have all the features and then want to go for the S1 Pro the S1 here seems to be The Sweet Spot between the Ender 3 version 2 and the S1 Pro and also I've seen this printer go on sale where it makes it very compelling so if you're just getting started or a seasoned printer this thing's a great option very easy and quick to assemble and get going so if you are interested I'm gonna have some links in description check it out and if you did enjoy this video then hit that like button and if you want to see more videos I reviewed quite a few reality printers check out the 3D printing playlist and also guys I do have a new channel called just print where eventually I'm going to move everything 3D printing there so if you can check that out I'd really appreciate it and as always thanks for watching and I'll catch you on the next one peace

Channel: Just Vlad

Views: 155,045

Keywords: sprite extruder, direct drive, ender 3, ender 3 s1 pro, creality ender 3 s1 pro, creality ender 3 s1, ender 3 review, ender 3 s1, 3d printer, ender 3 s1 setup, ender 3 s1 upgrades, ender 3 s1 assembly, ender 3 s1 review, ender 3 s1 vs s1 pro, ender 3 s1 setup guide, ender 3 s1 leveling, ender 3 s1 leveling bed, ender 3 s1 manual leveling, ender 3 assembly, ender 3 v2, 3d printing, 3d print, 3d printing time lapse, direct drive extruder, Just Vlad, Just Print

Id: AghQEvW-4JQ

Length: 50min 48sec (3048 seconds)

Published: Fri Oct 28 2022