Creality CR-10 Smart Pro - 3D Printer - Unbox & Setup

so the cr-10 line has been around for a while and it has become smart but now it's also Pro which takes it to a new level and I'm really excited to see what it's all about so in this video we're going to unbox it set it up and do some prints hopefully you guys enjoy let's get started [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] to see how the pro here improves on the standard smart as it does look like we do have some pretty good upgrades as we kind of can see here on this picture on the box which by the way is a decent size here's the measurements here so let's go ahead and open it up so we can see everything is nestled in this black soft foam so right on top we got our documentation looks like our user manual here and some stickers a piece of paper here that shows us all the different parameters for different filaments also retraction distances and printing speeds which is quite helpful and as you guys can see we have a picture here of a direct drive extruder and on the back it shows you how to level and you can actually use this piece of paper as the leveling paper also so very nice so here we have a separate piece of paper that shows us in the slicer you should not be using the x0 y0 and z0 but just the g28 so there's quite a few pieces in here so we're just gonna pull them out one by one and look at them so we got the US type power cord looks like about four feet of spool of filament in white pla very nice that it's on a little spool we got a spatula that's semi-sharpened and this could be useful to get underneath the nozzle so here we have a bag that says a giveaways not too sure what this is but we'll open it up up in a second we got our Hardware which is some bolts and the washers and this is to put the printer together and there's not that much of them so this should be a very simple assembly so here we have the spool holder and it has the filament detector already attached to it and the upper portion of the spool Just Clips into here very simple what's great about this one it has its own bearing so this is very nice so there are two braces which are these rods that are going to connect from the base to the Gantry and this is to stabilize the upper portion here we have the most important part which is the direct drive extruder hot end assembly so this is all in one and this is creality's latest hotend that uses the Sprite extruder and it's very compact you guys can see that's this piece here this is where we load our filament on top and this is the release arm and this part is all metal which obviously the motor here is metal too and we have the parts cooling fan with the Shroud and yeah everything is very nice and we even have a junction board in the back where everything plugs in and I believe that these only come in the Pro Models which the Ender 3 S1 Pro also comes with here we have the screen so this is a horizontal kind I believe is 4.3 inches and that's where you plug it in there and it just Clips onto the base so yeah and that is everything here on top so you guys can't see well but below we have the Gantry which is the upper portion and the base all nicely nestled in this foam so let's go ahead and pull them out so the upper portion of the printer is quite nice it's all pre-built as you guys can see and what's cool is we have a light bar here on top which is also part of the pro upgrade and it is a dual Z Motor here with leads going to the top and they are tethered with this belt so I love this design it works very well everything looks super nice and clean here and below that we have the base which is quite large and pretty heavy and right off the bat I love the low profile and also love to see this Pei sheet that's magnetic so we're going to take a closer look at all the details after the assembly but for now let's move this out of the way and so that's everything for the box as you guys saw how everything is very well packed and protected so the first thing I want to do is flip the base around and under here we can see we have four rubber feet on each side and we have this cover here with a couple Vents and let's see maybe we can pull it off and see what's underneath we do have some tools I think there and there's a drawer here that's upside down now I'm gonna go ahead and carefully pull it out oh wow this thing is super long look at that and yeah so it has a piece of foam on top to hold everything together and look at that it's like a little organized tool set with some extra parts like these nozzles actually guys what I'm noticing here on the nozzles they look like they're stainless steel instead of the brass ones that usually come with printers that are the norm so we get some snippers also and these could be quite useful for cutting filament on an angle a double-sided wrench 10 and 8 millimeters and the 10 is used for adjusting rollers we also have a dedicated nozzle wrench so this is to unscrew the nozzle from the heat block and it's double ended very nice we also get a USB adapter that can do full size and micro SD cards and we have a full size SD card a gig also a clean out needle it's quite thin and a set of Allen wrenches that are in their own little holder very nice all right so let's grab the correct wrench and we're going to take all these bolts out see if we can remove this cover all right so we had 15 little bolts to pull out let's go ahead and see what's underneath all right so we do have a fan here that's connected to the back go ahead and unplug that all right so let's take a closer look under here so we'll start from the back end so this is where our power comes in we have these ferrite cores so the main power runs here to the power supply and it is a creality branded 350 Watts 24 volts everything is nicely crimped and routed here but this is our y motor and the power supply is Slim by the way also so this is the output to the main board there's a reinforcement running through the Middle with two cutouts so here we have grounding and we have power coming to this relay here looks like and this is actually the switch here on the side now you do have a main switch in the back but in order for the printer to be smart to turn itself off it has to be also electronic and that's what this switch is so let's go to this side of the printer here we have the main board it is a creality branded and that's the board number there we can see our stepper drivers are integrated and they are synced full size SD card all the connections are hot glued and we also have a little fuse there too so yeah again very nicely put together and all the output wires are running out and naturally here in the corner we have our storage box that goes in there and it's all enclosed so here looks like we have some kind of power regulator and so the input power comes in here and then distributes throughout to the Wi-Fi and this one says PC which I think runs here somewhere I guess for this one right here and speaking of the Wi-Fi module it's right here we have double antennas going out and going right here to the front where they can pick up signal easier you also have this cable that goes to the ethernet looks like so you can hard connect it to the internet and then we have another Junction board here which our main wire from the motherboard comes and then goes into here and then add it here which also has this plug that says LED so yeah quite sophisticated on all the wiring and a lot more involved than normally I see from creality so yeah very nicely constructed and extremely well executed so I'm going to go ahead and put the cover back on we'll flip it around and start the assembly alright so putting the printer together should be pretty simple so let's grab our user manual pretty cool creality stickers and the manual itself so creality usually does a great job with manuals so here it shows us and tells us what each part is called and it is multi-language actually it's English and Chinese looks like at once here are all the parameters of the printer parts list and step one of the installation which is number four here and we're going to be installing the Gantry to the base with these four bolts m545s I'll go underneath the base to the upper portion now before you do anything you might want to make sure that your base is flat so if yours is wobbling try pushing down on it to level it out and there are a couple bolts on each side or I guess one on this side and two on that that are supporting braces that you could loosen and that should flatten it out and then tighten them up but yeah just usually pushing on it will flatten it out so if we go to the side here a bit maybe you guys can see but we have like this little cut out here and this is where the Gantry or the upper portion will sit just like that with the motors pointing to the back so it kind of snugly fits in there so be careful do we have some plugs and stuff so yeah we're just going to land right in there so we need to grab our bolts and there are four of them and there'll be two on each side they go from underneath into the channel so I'm going to use this pull to prop it up and you can go off the edge of the table or something however you got to do it to reach underneath you can even hold it as long as you're careful but propping it up like this usually works pretty good and now I'm just going to grab a bolt and go underneath and start it from here so yeah it's not too difficult guys just everything's a little large and wobbly at this point and we're going to need our largest wrench and now I'm just going to run them down until they get snug so not going to tighten them yet just kind of run them down because we need to do the other side also so let's flip around and we'll do the same thing here make sure you're sitting down completely on the channel because there's like a Groove that it falls into before you tighten this but don't tighten the bolts yet completely just kind of run them down and the reason for that is because we want to run our x-axis here on the Z all the way down and so I'm just going to grab this belt and just turn it and that's going to make it go down and I want to go all the way down and the reason for that is because we want the spacing here between all these rollers to be as close as possible so even though everything here looks to be adjusted pretty well and everything seems to line up we still want the offset between these two channels to be as close as possible between all these rollers because this is where the hot end will spend most of its time in this range here and so now we can go back underneath and tighten those bolts up you want to tighten these up pretty snugly but nothing crazy because we do still have braces that will help with the stabilization now we can go to the other side and tighten these and that's how the Gantry connects to the base all right so for the next part we're going to be installing the braces which are called the pull rods on each side of the printer from the base to the top of the Gantry so we're going to need the two different kind of bolts and also the washers which are all in this baggie and that's all of our Hardware so we got two washers and then two longer bolts and two shorter bolts the shorter bolts are going to go up and the longer ones are going to go down and then our rods you want to make sure that in the middle here they kind of split open that they're tight so tighten that up and then on the ends it doesn't matter which way is up they're both the same you're going to have an eye bolt and also this nut here so make sure it's all loose same thing on the other side and we want to go about halfway or so we're going to do the bottom first which connects right here and so we're going to put our bolt through first like that and then our washer after that so the washer is going to go against the frame so we're going to take it and screw it in right here and just like that hopefully you guys can see that and now we're going to move to the top here and you guys can see that it's too short so what we need to do is unscrew it a bit from the bottom and then also unscrew it from here a bit where it extends so what you want to do is you want to perfectly align with that hole and you guys probably can't see but you want this hole and that hole to perfectly align so that's perfect now I'm going to grab the shorter bolt and that's going to go through here so at this point you want it to be loose and not only loose but quite important that your base is sitting flat so make sure you're on a flat table because once you lock these in that's going to kind of lock the printer crooked or straight so make sure your base is not wobbling it's flat and now we can tighten the bolts on the bottom and top and so now that we're tight now we need to lock them in with the nuts so we're going to run it all the way down and then use our wrench 10 millimeter to tighten them up not hard just a little bit to lock it in and same thing down here and just like that this side is on and now we can do the other side all right so our supporting rods are on for the next part we're going to install our hot end assembly onto the Cradle here so this is the x-axis that moves back and forth and our assembly here connects to it and if you guys can see here on the side there are three bolts that we need to take out they're like partially unscrewed already and that's where it's going to mount right here and so the way this goes on is pretty simple and so this bolt right here that sticks out it's going to sit right on top right here and hopefully you guys can see this but a little you're going to sit just like that and it kind of Falls in there and it sits and holds itself so yeah one two three little bolts we took out to put back in So yeah so far the assembly process has been pretty Flawless and quite simple so now we're just going to Snug them up not too tight guys just a little bit and that should be good and now our hot end assembly is on the x-axis and so for the next part is going to be our spool holder but before we do that let's go ahead and do the screen which is right after that since we're already down here and so it's going to install right here which is quite simple all we got to do is plug it in so there's a piece of tape here we need to take off that reveals our plug and then the plug is going to plug in on the inside there you guys can see baby a little hard to get to but not too bad we're going to plug that in and now we're just going to line it up here on these Nubs and then when it falls in you're gonna go down and that's going to lock it in right here so yeah very nice I like how it flows with the printer all right so now going to the top and hopefully you guys can see the slight bars kind of in the way of this angle but yeah this bull Holder will just literally clip on onto the channel down and so you want to have this pull part that rolls in line with your filament detector like this so the filament will flow out into the detector then down into the extruder and you want the detector to be about the middle of the channel so right where the creality logo is so this pull holder would be a little bit to the left side if you're looking at it from the front and so hopefully you guys can see but yeah we're just gonna kind of go into it like this and then just click down simple as that and so it's kind of beside the logo and the filament detector should be right in the middle of where the logo is and so there's a little wire that comes out the channel on the back that's going to plug into the detector so let's go ahead and plug that in and just like that those pull holders on and our filament will go here through the detector and then down to the extruder and so all we got left is plugging everything in and that's not too hard as it's pretty straightforward we got some wiring here and there's some tape we got to peel to release them and they're all going to line up with each other so the black plugs go with the black and then this white plug is the z-axis motor so we can go ahead and plug that in so one of the black plugs is a double pin and the other is a triple and that's going to be our filament detector and LED light and on this side we just have to plug in the z-axis motor which is quite simple so yeah that's all the wiring here on the bottom and it's quite important that they're not in the way of this knob here so if you have to like push it back in down into the hole the wiring so it kind of stays low and if we slide this across we can see that nothing's in the way and so we've got this main ribbon cable that comes out the side and so this wire about Midway has some wires and these are for the x-axis motor and end stop switch which are right here this is the X in stop switch and the motor plugs underneath right here so pretty simple now here on the ribbon cable we can see there's a little picture and this is telling you that you can insert this into this bracket here which will hold it and you want to put it about right here where the sticker is and then the other end is going to go to our haunted assembly and if we can flip around here to the front you guys can see the wire goes through here and then into the assembly and so here it looks like we do need to take off this piece and this is the strain relief bracket so let's go ahead and do that so should be able to just take one bolt and rotate this so it kind of opens up if you guys can see here we got a couple tabs that we need to open and then our cable will plug in with a little nub to the back right down in there so once you line it up if you just push it down the tabs will kind of walk around it and hold it in and I think I put yeah I did I put this upside down so on the drawing the arrow pointing down actually goes the right side up so and now we can put this bracket back on so I'm just going to swivel it back and we'll put the bolt in there tighten it up on both sides and now our wire is somewhat strained relieved there so now we just need to check make sure it reaches both sides and looks like we're a little bit short here so we do need to go more this way so let's see how far it needs to go so the paper itself does need to go straight into the bracket and now we should be able to reach yep there we go no problem all the way to this end so most likely it'll never have to go this far but if it does it can still reach it is on a stretch here but should be fine and obviously it can go this way no issues so yeah that looks pretty good and so that is everything for the assembly process and plugging everything in so I am pretty excited to power this thing up but before we do that we need to check a few things which are rollers on the bed and the hot end and also our belt and so we got three stationaries and then three adjustables on this side and if we can move the printer here sideways you guys can see the three adjustable rollers that are with eccentric nuts so The Eccentric nut is when you turn it it makes the roller go farther and closer away and so the way I like to check them is I stick my finger in there and I roll so the back one is completely loose the middle one is very tight and the front one is pretty much almost perfect so the metal one needs to be loosened and the back one needs to be tightened up so we're going to use this open-ended wrench 10 millimeters to do that so I'm going to go for the middle one and try to loosen that up whichever way that is and there we go so now we're good on the middle one a little tight on the front one so let's loosen that one so good on the front good on the middle and still loose on the rear one I'm gonna see if I can tighten up that very back one and so so now we got some friction let's see how we feel like on all of them we need to double check everything okay so the middle one is too loose now so we need to tighten it back up a bit and I think that's good right there so basically the way you check them is you just spin the roller stationary and if it spins in one spot pretty easily and not too tight you shouldn't be good so all of mine feel really good and the bed doesn't wobble so we're gonna go back and forth and see make sure everything is smooth and everything feels perfect you just want them to be barely tight enough around the channel where the bed is not loose so now that we checked that now we can check our belt right here it's actually pretty good it's a little bit on the tighter side and we can adjust it here on the front with this knob we're going to loosen it a bit tighten it just a little bit more after that and that's pretty good right there so on the belts you want to be you know a little looser than tighter but you guys can see it's just slight tightness and you don't want to play music if you hear music you're probably too tight so but if you do hear something it needs to be a very very low note so right you can adjust this as you print to see how it affects your print and loosen and tighten it from there so same thing for the x-axis we've got the belt tensioner here and we want to tension that just a little bit so be careful not to over tension because you can't feel over here what's happening so you need to touch the belt and see how tight it is so here it looks like we were pretty close also I think I'll leave it right there and so on our hot end we have two rollers on top and one on the bottom so the one on the bottom is adjustable and the two on top our station here so here on mine they're adjusted perfectly you guys can see I can spin it quite easy the rollers and at the same time it's not wobbling so basically you want to get just the perfect tension where it's grabbing but not too tight because if it's too tight it's going to kind of bounce around and Jitter because the rollers will be too compressed and if it's too loose it'll wobble and so digestible eccentric nut is right under there so yeah it's not too hard to figure out now we do also have rollers here on the outside so the outer two are stationary and then this one on the inside is adjustable mine everything is actually pretty good this one over here does seem a little tight I'm going to loosen it up just a little bit you definitely want to be looser and Tighter on these two because we do have dual Z screws that keep both sides very linear as they go up so it's not super important that these rollers are adjusted perfectly and a lot of times you can't get them perfect anyways so if they're close enough and not binding like crazy just leave them it should be good enough and with that we are done with the assembly and all the adjustments so for the next part let's take a closer look at the printer alright so the smart Pro is a pretty large printer it's very tall and quite deep but not very wide which is great and it definitely looks quite special here sitting on the table so let's start from the top we got the spool holder and it Clips on pretty simply just like that so we got it lined up about center of the printer and this is where our filament detector is and it plugs in right here on the side and we have an arrow of the direction that the filament flows it's going to go through here and then down into the extruder and on the back side the wire comes out here and then it goes down all the way to the bottom so one of the main features up here is this light and it's a pretty nice light bar quite thin and looks really good and we have an on and off switch here and the only thing you have to remember about this is not to grab it by accident if you do grab your printer by the top as you would easily break this off so I like how all of our channels are nice and smooth looks very clean so flipping around to the back we are tethered with this belt between the two Elite screws and these brackets here are plastic but we do have bearings inside which is nice and then we have this metal bracket here that connects to the support rods that go to the bottom so again you can see where our wires run through the channels on the back all the way down and this is where they all plug in so our lead screws go through these brackets everything's metal we've got brass bushing same thing on this side except here we have this bracket that holds our wire that goes to the hot end and then it goes down around into the base this is where we connected our x-axis motor and end stop switch and looking at the back of the hot end this is our strain relief bracket there the wheels and our adjustable wheel here on the bottom and you guys can see underneath here our nozzle there which does look like it's stainless steel our heat block it is insulated with the silicone sock and this is our parts cooling fan here that blows underneath so going down from there we got our dual z-axis motors our y-axis rails the belt the y-axis and stop switch and this is the motor going to the very bottom our cable that comes out from the base to the bed and and it is strain relief we can see here the support rods installed with the washer on both sides and then here we have the power input Port it is fused with an on and off switch here we have the manufacturing label that tells us basic information including the weight of the printer which is 14 kilograms all right so going back up front let's look at our hot end here so this is where our cable comes in it is strain relieved you do have to take this bracket apart to install it and here we have the Sprite extruder on the top of it release arm this is where we feed in the filament and here it also looks like that stainless steel instead of brass which is quite nice that I get here we can see I want to just turn it our stepper motor for the extruder these are the three bolts that we installed this whole piece in and if you guys see that hole there in the Middle with the bolt that's the adjustment for the tension on the extruder here we can see the heat break power coming to the the block very nice metal shroud around the fan looks really good going to this side we have the CR touch for our bed leveling and end stop switch and our parts cooling fan here going this way we have the end stop switch for the X everything is covered up so you can't see but you can't take this cover off if you want to see your belt on the pulley and same thing on this side it's all covered up and this is where we adjust the x-axis belt going down to our bed we have a pretty large Pei steel sheet that's magnetic and it is flexible and I really love this material as it works great and we have a tab here that we can pull it up very nice so it's kind of like this reflection finish on one side and Pei on the other and yeah it looks great and on the ends you guys can see there's like little cutouts and those actually line up with those bolts in the back so when you put it in you just butt it against them and then you send it down and you get it perfect every time very nice attention and detail I love that so we got the Pei sheet the magnetic mat and then the aluminum heated bed part and also it is insulated as you guys can see underneath so yeah that's great for this size we have nice quality Orange Springs and aluminum very large adjustable knobs so yeah very nice high quality everything here and if we look at the bed frame it's also very thick and quite unique looking and you guys can see there underneath our rollers and they're adjustable eccentric nuts so again the bed rolls around these two smaller channels and this is where you adjust the Y belt here we have a bunch of stickers warnings certifications and a QR code Wi-Fi compatible so you shouldn't be able to control it remotely going to the front we've got this nice large touchscreen display let's go ahead and pull the protector off and it's orientated in this horizontal position and I like how it integrates here on the side and beside that we have the full size SD card slot and this is where you can bring in the files to the printer and going more this way we have our storage which is awesome because it's quite large and not only that it's actually organized with all of the parts that came with the printer so if you wanted more room you can just take the foam out and just throw everything in and you'll fit a lot more in there but yeah very cool love this little storage here and by the way it is magnetic there's a piece of magnet there on the back that magnetizes to the end that locks it in so yeah a lot of nice little details also I love the angular design and not to mention how low the profile is considering how large this printer is and we can see our little rubber foot there there's four of them on each corner and if we go to the side of the screen we can see here we have what appears to be a USB type-c port a USB or work that appears to be compatible with the camera our ethernet port and then our smart power on button and that's pretty much it for this side yeah this printer is quite nice and just feels very premium it kind of feels like if someone really tried to design something and they kind of took their time this one would come out because everything is pretty thought through seems like on this machine including a lot of metal Parts just high quality pieces and it just feels really premium so for the next part let's go ahead and plug it in power it on preheat everything pull it and level the bed all right so I got the printer plugged in in the back let's go ahead and hit the power switch and nothing happens because we have another switch we need to hit here on the side if you guys remember so I'm going to go ahead and hit that okay you got to hold it for a second and it all comes on there's a lot of clicking and we can see the display here wow there it goes and our light came on from the top which is quite bright and on the warmer side so we're going to look at that display here in a second let's go ahead and click on ready and we'll home the X and Y there goes the X and the Y and by the way the printer is very quiet now we'll do the Z so it's going to use the CR touch here to probe all right so all of our axes work so on the bottom here we got manual if we click on that we have a preheat pla option so it's going to heat up the nozzle to 200 and the bed to 60. let's go back to home so as it's heating up a fan popped on and got a little louder and it's actually the heat break fan so that's nice that that actually turns off when the nozzle goes off all right so let's go ahead and do our bed level so we're going to hit on settings and there's going to be a level button and so the way this works is first you manually level the bed and then we do the automatic bed leveling which will take a bunch of measurements around the bed and store them and then compensate as it's moving around and printing so the aux is manual and then we've got Auto leveling there so let's go ahead and click on number two which will take us to this corner here and I'm going to grab this sheet that was included and what we're going to do is we're just going to set the Gap here and have a little slight drag between the nozzle and the bed with this paper so now we go to this corner I love these large aluminum knobs they feel really good we'll go over to that back corner and by the way I didn't mention this but if your knobs are not run down all the way you should probably do that first so you can kind of go up from there all right let's go to that other corner so because this bed is quite large as we change one corner the others kind of changed so we have to go around at least three times but normally three is more than enough as the CR touch will compensate everything else and honestly this thing is leveling out really nice okay so we're now too tight here all right and also you do want to be preheated on the bed and I go ahead and preheat the nozzle too so yeah we're doing really good here this is our third pass and it's feeling pretty much perfect yep very very slight adjustment yep all right well let's go to the center now by clicking on one and we'll see how that looks and it's a little bit less drag here and what we can do is use this z-axis offset to go up and down so it's already negative 2.51 and we can kind of go down from there a little bit there we go I'm starting to get a slight slight drag so I got it to negative 2.60 so yeah and now it's pretty much perfect all the way around so it is going to be a little tighter on the edges than it is the middle but that's not a problem because we're about to do out of bed leveling and it's going to measure it all out and then compensate where it should be perfect no matter where it is so let's click on add a level and we're going to click on start and there it goes all right so it's doing five across and it's double tapping and so it's going to be 5 times 5 which is 25 points and actually down here if you guys can maybe see we do have a mesh layout of all the squares which I guess are 25 points that it measures and it says that it's 44 done and that completes the whole process of leveling the bed so yeah let's go ahead and take a closer look at the UI all right so this is what the screen looks like so the resolution is very good I can't even see the pixel density at all with my eyes so we're at the home page and we have these main buttons here on the side on the very top here on the right we have a Wi-Fi icon that's on then we have the nozzle temperature and Target bed temperature Target the overall speed of the printer and then the z-axis offset and then on the very bottom we gotta Stop and Play buttons so under print this is going to read our SD card and there's nothing here because we don't have it plugged in under ready we got three choices axes move in and out and manual so under axis move we can home the printer and move the axes individually and the amount here on top on in and out this is going to be our extruder control and you can also control your nozzle temperature here and in manual we can adjust our nozzle temperature bed temperature preheat pla preheat ABS cooling which is going to cool everything down and fan control so it turns on the fan here so and Diesel preheat and the nozzle temperature and bed you just click on it and enter what you want so pretty straightforward let's go to settings so here we have pla setting so you can set the temperature you want it to preheat at and also for abs this is where we clicked on level and leveled our bed manually and then out of bed level z-axis offset then we have our light on and off and that's coming from the top down we also have power off here and language and these are all the languages you can choose from advanced settings got restore network restore all movement temp pids Wi-Fi is on run out sensors on so you can you know turn that on and off also the Wi-Fi on and off and our belts we have everything about the printer so yeah pretty intuitive here and a very nice display so if we click the off button it's going to ask us to shut it down so you can shut it down like this and this is great because this can be software used to turn it off so we're not going to do that right now oh no and go back to home so let's go ahead and preheat PLA and we'll go ahead and put our filament in and I'm going to use my own roll so let's snip the end of the filament on an angle and will sit right on the spool holder and I love this bull holder as it has its own bearing and then we're going to go through the filament detector which by the way I don't know if you guys can see maybe or not but it does light up blue on the inside and then down to the extruder and so all we got to do is just push on the lever here and feed it down all the way so you can push it down yourself which is not hard at all and it's going to purge out the bottom or you can click on in and out and then we'll click on in let's say 15 millimeters and now it's going to purge it that much so yeah but it's easy enough just to push it down yourself grab these snippers you got a pretty big blob under there now another thing we purchased all right so we checked everything leveled the bed preheated the nozzle ran our filament through let's go ahead and grab this full-size SD card that came with the printer and plug it in here in the slot and it goes upside down we'll click on print and we can see there's a couple files on here so it looks like folders and we have rabbits flower pot and candy so I guess we'll start with rabbit well actually let's do candy since we have red filament maybe makes more sense so I'm going to click on that and it loads up the candy file and now we have to push play and it starts so I'm going to click on the z-axis offset here and compensate if needed up or down so right off the bat it looks perfect which I don't know if I'm impressed or not because I was expecting it as creality Predators always seemed to work for me very well okay so we're a little high so let's go down now I'm not sure if this print is sliced maybe kind of high so I am going down quite a bit all right so yeah now I'm really happy it looks perfect it should be compensating a little bit which I can feel the back Motors here moving just ever so slightly so I guess it's already pretty close so yeah very nice so this is what we see while we're printing we got the file name up there the Progress Circle is at one percent and it's been three minutes since we started and here we have the same information that's always there so when you're printing you can't choose anything on this side but if you click on any of these parameters here it's going to take you to another menu so you can adjust your nozzle bed temperature print speed fan control the light on and off we got Auto off function here which is off so once it's done it's going to turn off the printer we have this compensation the run out sensor you can turn that on and off which is the filament detector then also we have power outage on and off which is super cool because we will need to turn this off when we're printing in spiralized mode so yeah everything's there that you need while you're pretty so I'm happy to report that the printer is on the quieter side and most of the noise is just fan sounds and it's more of a airflow sound and nothing obnoxious so yeah quite a pleasant sound I'm gonna bring my mic in foreign so yeah you can have this thing around you and not be annoyed by it too much as the steppers are very quiet overall so whatever it's printing it seems to be pretty large I think it's a brim that it's doing right now because it just keeps going in a circle it's smaller smaller and uh yeah we'll let this thing print out and we'll see what comes out all right so the candy file was actually a spiralized print that's kind of like a bold that you put candy in was not expecting that but yeah I guess we went straight to spiralized mode and there was a little issue but that's not the printer's fault as the power recovery mode is on by default and obviously that doesn't work well with spiralized mode and so there are some pauses and we're going to see that in a second but let's go ahead and test out how easy we can pull this thing off so not hard at all as I heard it kind of pop off already so wow yeah man these things are just so awesome like I've been enjoying these Pei build plates especially from more high-end Brands as they seem to have a better material and it just works beautifully and so that's what our bottom looks like and we do have a brim that I guess we could try to peel but I'm just gonna leave it on there for now what I really want to show you are these gaps there and you can kind of see them from the inside also so the nozzle actually paused and so it kind of made little blobs and then after the pause it started it actually didn't extrude right away either so there's like actual gaps and marcosa was the recovery being on and so when I turned it off we were just smooth printing all the way up from there so yeah and as far as the print quality it looks perfect and you know I wasn't honestly expecting anything less from this machine now there are a couple more files that we can print in here which is a rabbit and flower pot so I'm gonna go ahead and do that just out of curiosity and after that maybe we'll explore the Cloud app and see if we can download that to our phone and connect the printer to Wi-Fi and also we got something pretty interesting in here that I want to go ahead and open up and see if we can figure out how to use it all foreign the other two prints and yeah one of them was this little rabbit and the other this vase which is also in spiralized mode so let's check out the rabbit first there is a brim on the bottom should come off pretty easy but yeah usually brims help the print stick to the plate but in this case it doesn't really need it but I guess it's just for caution they added it to make sure if you don't have your level perfect it'll still all stick so we get the little crinkle look underneath and White's a little hard to see but yeah just as expected the layers are sitting beautifully and everything looks very consistent and pretty smooth we got a tiny bit of stringing but very very minor and pretty much Perfection here guys which again is expected so here we have another vase it's also on a brim and it's still stuck on there it's actually stuck pretty good let's see if I can wobble it around yeah probably need to flex it so this is a matte filament and it's a lot more gummy and sticky but it still popped off really good as you guys can see and again we've got the brim I guess we'll go ahead and pop that off so to be honest I don't really like this matte filament it does look relatively nice as it's nice shiny but it tends to be more gummy and harder to print and just doesn't sit as nice or even and we can kind of see there's some layering here in there there we go so it's just more inconsistent in the filament itself but yeah I mean still though it looks really really good and did a great job here on spiralized mode and it's pretty strong pretty cool and this is a vase here I guess to put some flowers in or something so yeah as far as the prints that came with the printer they all turned out good and it prints great out of the box so let's go ahead and see if we can't connect to the cloud go to the Play Store which I'm using Android type in creality cloud and this should be right here and I'm going to go ahead and install it which is actually quite large it's almost 100 megabytes so we'll have to wait a little bit alright so we downloaded let's go ahead and open it up and this is the main menu so let's go to workbench and click add device so it's asking us to log in so if you don't have an account you're going to have to create one so we're going to click on sign up all right so I signed up and logged in and this is what we got here so I'm kind of choose your device all right so if we scroll down a little bit we can see the cr10 smart Pro here so let's click on that so now it's telling us to power on the printer and click on restore network here so in the settings we're going to advance and restore network it's going to ask to restore we're going to say yes so now we're going to click we've done this step and go to the next one I'm gonna ask for permissions here allow and now it's searching for the device with bluetooth so we do have like a little countdown on the printer and here looks like it found something so we're going to click on start Network distribution it looks like it's trying to connect and it failed of course all right so let's try it again maybe it'll work this time oh there we go that was fast or maybe because that was still countdowning and now I went to the menu it worked immediately after that so here we're going to set up the Wi-Fi I'm going to click on wireless here and I'm going to log in press next saying connected or connecting and by the way I am on LTE so yeah I'm not even on the Wi-Fi that the printer is trying to connect to maybe I need to go there I'm not sure I'll see what happens okay so looks like it did fine the printer and we can name it here so let's go ahead and name it the actual printer name and we'll click done and we should have a device here and there we go and yeah it looks like it knows everything about it and it is online right now let's click on it see what happens so here it's kind of giving us the status we got the temperature or the nozzle the bed and then the speed at what we're printing we can select files to print straight from your phone or we can read the SD card that's in the printer and we can see it does pull up one of them here looks a little confusing but in any case and you can also turn it off here straight from your phone and by the way we are on LTE so we are controlling the printer from anywhere not just near it so yeah we've got settings on the bottom let's go ahead and see what that's all about down there we've got temperature move speed and other controls so we got fan and led let's go ahead and try the LED here so yeah not sure what okay so when I click the fan the fan turned on but the LED light seems to be stuck for now it was already on so maybe that's the reason I'm not sure for some reason saying it's off but it's not in any case it does seem to be functioning and if we click on select file you can actually bring in the file in the phone and also slice it from here so yeah if you're the kind of person that wants to control your printer from the phone and slice your prints and send it to it you can do it with the creality cloud so let's click on explore and see if we can find some kind of file somewhere to print see animals maybe it's just taking a while to load but yeah hopefully we can find here something it's a little more simple this slug looks pretty cool so I guess let's click on download so we got our copyright notice basically there's a certain way you can use this thing so we're downloading it right now we're gonna go ahead and move these prints out of the way and I guess we'll use the same green here to print the slug if we can get it going so I've downloaded somewhere but I haven't found it yet in any case it tells us that the printer needs an update so let's go ahead and try to update it looks like it's going to initiate the update it's got 56 complete going pretty quick 82 updating firmware all right says update successful okay that was simple enough there were nothing that turned off or blinked on the printer which is quite interesting all right guys so I went back to the file where I downloaded it and I realized I needed to push this little stacked looking button and that's slicing so if you click on that it's going to open the slicer to slice the print there we go we've got like a little slicer here and you have all these controls here on the side and then your parameters here on the top which you can adjust all of them here I definitely don't want raft so I'm going to click on skirt and yeah there's kind of a lot to go through here but I think most of the stuff is pretty much where it needs to be so except for choosing that uh build plate adhesion for skirt we're not going to change anything else and go ahead and click slice down here for this Slug and so slicing it's zero percent at the moment 46 82 and there we go so now we can just click on preview or print let's go ahead and preview for fun and there we go that's a preview there and you can check out the layers here well I guess you can push play here to go through the layers but pretty awesome so we can click to print down here so we're going to choose our printer I'm going to click confirm that it's for the right one it's saying make sure you got nothing on the build plate I'm going to confirm that and it should be starting here okay yeah so it's all loading up and we can see here on the screen it says Cloud Print so it has started and it's preheating and we got status so far download it okay load it okay preheating bed and nozzle and we've got the percentage there you do have a stop button so no preview yet of any kind I see here and yeah this was not very hard to get going here and set up so let's see how it does foreign so it's a bit smaller than I thought it would be but yeah let's just see what happens looks pretty good and it's pretty here in the front corner which is also kind of interesting so not sure exactly that's how we sliced it but in any case we are Printing and everything looks good so the slug is printing and it's a little Blobby for some reason not too sure but if we look at the app here you can see that there is a preview of the slug that we're Printing and also the progress so it gets darker as it's finished also tells you the layers here let's see okay kind of goes in more detail and everything so yeah very interesting app and really has a lot of features seems like so I did have to leave the area and I slowed the speed down halfway so I can come back and it's still printing now the only thing we are missing which is some kind of way of seeing our print through a camera and we'll get to that in a second all right so our print is done and it just went to this menu here where you start a print let's go ahead and see if we can turn it off confirm and look at that it works like a charm and the reason we needed to turn it off because here if you guys can see we can connect the camera but the printer does need to be off for that and the camera is actually in this little bag here where it says giveaways so let's go ahead and check it out so it appears to be a little kit here with the camera itself and it does say creality on it let's go ahead and peel this protective layer it looks pretty nice there's actually microphones not sure why we need those but yeah it looks like there's a bracket on the bottom hinges kind of like the foot I guess in any case something like that but we do have a mount for this tripod that comes with it also and we can just screw on there and set it up I guess anywhere we want technically here's a pretty decent size cable about three to four feet looks like and on the side of the printer there's a USB port that this plugs into and theoretically now we should be ready to use the camera so let's go ahead and power the printer back on I'm going to open the app and here it says we do need to wait two to three minutes after we power it on for it all to connect and right above here we got these icons here and one of them is the camera so let's click on it for some reason saying camera not detected I guess we need to wait a little bit longer alright so I pushed on it again and now it's asking me for permission let's click allow I'm going to go to creality cloud and allow it and I'll go back and look at that something's loading up and we have a live view so yeah really cool how seamless it all works yeah if I move the camera you guys can see it's a couple seconds so not that big deal and I am over LTE so yeah again you can be anywhere and see your progress so I clicked on X but our light bar just turned off very interesting let's see if we can turn it back on all right so it seems to be synced with the camera or something yeah it keeps turning the light bar off and if I pull the camera up it turns the light bar back on so yeah that seems a little interesting there we do have a settings button also that if we push that we've got some parameters we can do like record settings you can do automatic recording and also time lapses so yeah there's quite a few options here that seems to be integrated quite well with everything so let's go ahead and turn our light back on and we'll take a closer look at this print that we printed so this is not perfect looking right off the bat but it seems like all this stuff coming comes off quite easy so I don't know exactly what happened there but maybe something in the slicer that was causing all this let's see how easy it comes off the bed is slightly warm and it came off easy wow yeah a little bit messy and we did have a little bit of a problem here on the front of it and yeah I probably should have used a different filament this filament is not very friendly but even with that said it seems like the slug turned out pretty good and functional so it actually articulates very small tolerance between the pieces and they all move and very nicely too so there's not much wobble so quite impressive actually I'd like to print this thing more cleaner away very nice print for sure and if it wasn't for all those blobbing it did a great job yeah as you guys see we can definitely print through the cloud and now also view their prints so I'm going to go ahead and print more stuff maybe slice my own prints and also use the cloud again to print a few other things and also I want to test out some higher temperature printing like abs and we'll also try TPU and see how it does with that so I'm at the cloud side looking for a print I want to print this thing out I already put new filament in and I realized I messed up a little earlier in the slicer so if we click on the slice button it's going to take us to the slicer now one thing I didn't do is change the printer from the sermon V1 is what was on there to our cr-10 smart Pro which it's still loading out but let's go ahead and just click on that so yeah now it's going to be correctly on the bed compared to what it was earlier and then maybe that's why the slug messed up was because of the wrong printer being selected so I do apologize about that yeah pretty good little slicer here right on the phone which is really cool so I've never really used my phone before for slicing but creality makes it really easy and quite detailed on all of the options so I'm going to click on slice and we'll print it and that's our slug there I guess we need to get rid of that thing so I'm just going to delete it here I will try this low poly Little Owl click on print and it should start printing all right so we're at the computer and I got the crealitycloud.com open if you want to download the slicer you're going to click here on the software and firmware and then software and here we can choose between Windows Mac and Linux so I'll be downloading the Mac one if I wanted to use the creality slicer now what's interesting is it appears that we can also control our printer straight from the browser which is what I'm kind of interested in so let's go ahead and log in all right so we should be logged in let's click on workbench here on the side and check it out we get the dashboard here of things we've done let's click on devices and we can see our printer right here so it does appear that we can control this thing straight from the browser also we have camera review looks like oh look at that so yeah everything seems to work just like on the phone except we are on the browser right now which is super cool so that means we can print straight from here and check out all the settings we got for the printer you can adjust the temperatures axes LEDs fan speed so I'm going to click on this heat up here confirm and it's going to preheat the bed very nice so we can choose a file or upload let's see what happens if we choose one okay so it's going to read the ones that I have in the printer right now and upload file I guess you can throw in files in there so if you want to throw a G-Code file in here it looks like so let's go back and we'll find our own file so let's click on models here let's see can we search something out yeah let's just search all right so we do have a calibration Cube let's open it up and we'll go ahead and slice it here right on the browser keeps opening new windows and again here we gotta change our printer okay so I was trying to teach us here of everything and how to use it so let's change it to our printer see our series there we go there we go that looks much more correct and now we do have to go through the slicer again and they do have advanced here also I believe the phone was the same so let's just do 0.2 layer height until density we'll go to 18 and fill grid don't need supports skirt wall thickness is good let's not hide the zc bottom top thickness this needs to be much higher so I'll just do 1.6 or something print speed at 50 is good yeah everything looks pretty good retraction of 0.8 seems to work fine but I think I would bump that up to 1.2 or something for later retraction speed is good temperatures are good and that's it so let's go ahead and click on slice and there it goes so it takes a couple seconds to slice it and now we have it in our Cloud here so now we're going to click on print thinking a little long here on the process cancel it real quick and see if we're still connected devices okay it still looks good I guess let's see we've got the camera working choose file try again now it's asking us make sure there's no models there and there we go it started or it's preparing right now there we go yeah all right now it's starting super cool look at that we can see it live there doing its thing the camera does seem a little over sharpened though if I did have a complaint yeah there it goes we're here at the printer and it's just showing us Cloud Print also and here's our camera here on the side it's getting ready to print the calibration Cube very cool that we're able to control the printer in multiple ways we can do it manually like the old days and uses our SD card and use like a normal slicer Cara or even creality or we can just do it on the phone or just do it on the web browser so pretty amazing and quite seamless of how all of it works together all right so these are all the prints that we printed on the smart Pro and the printer did very well on all of them and we did quite a few here so let's start with these benches so the first one here is the one we sliced with the phone and this is what it turned out like so pretty good but could be fine-tuned a bit better but overall you guys can see it looks pretty reasonable for what it is and then I printed another one and this one I actually sliced myself on the computer and brought it in with the SD card so I wanted to see the difference here and you guys can see it's much cleaner so I think it's just the settings we do still have some ringing there overall the layers are set nice so depending on the angle the light is at certain angles looks like it's layered but it's actually not if you look at it like this so yeah the layering is very minimal and sitting really good and overall looks great and this was only at 50 millimeters a second pla 200 on the nozzle 60 on the bed and yeah that's what they turned out like so here we have a calibration Cube this was also sliced on the phone and I print this at 3x which is 150 millimeters a second and you guys can see we do have a little bit of ghosting there but yeah it did a really good job overall especially on the walls they're pretty straight the top looks great and the bottom looks good too now the other print that we did off of the phone slicing is this owl and it also turned out really good it's like a polygon looking thing you can kind of see some ringing there and the layers do said nice but you can see the ghosting or ringing not terrible but it is there bottom looks perfect and there was not enough layers on the top so this is why it has some gaps here but overall very nice print here from the phone slicing on the creality cloud which again can be tuned to look better so this print I sliced on the computer also PLA and this is quite an intricate print with all these little features like the pause and it did an excellent job you guys can see even the cooling is great right underneath here so yeah very precise and looks great and retains a lot of good detail even at 0.2 layer height which by the way everything was printed in that so here we have an octopus that turned out really nice this is a matte blue filament much better than the green one I had and this thing looks excellent the layers are sitting beautifully and all of the tentacles stuck to the bed and they do print in pieces and then combine to be articulating and yeah it looks great we do have a support here we can break off here we have a shark that is printed in glow-in-the-dark filaments probably very hard to see but it is glow in the dark and yeah this thing also turned out really good there's pieces that have to combine and then they're flexible very cool print the kids love these little sharks and the mouth is functional and all the teeth printed out perfect which is not always the case let's go ahead and see if we can get the mouth to operate so the top tooth usually is the one that's touching let's see if we can break it looser and there we go it opened up beautifully and all the teeth are there and nothing is weird and printed out pretty much perfect I would say so yeah very happy with this print another print we have which tests the printer's accuracy for tolerance is this gear and this is a functional print all these pieces print separately and then you should pull it off and just hold the middle and spin it or hold the outside and spin the middle and it should turn with no issues and this thing is perfect literally so very nice on the tolerances and there's very small play in all the gears and they spin extremely smooth which is impressive as far as functional prints go this thing does an excellent job so speaking of functional prints and check this thing out this is also printed in glow filament so it goes in the dark which is kind of cool and this is an engine designed by a Creator called sunshine I believe that's his logo right there if you can see it maybe but yeah really cool little thing now it did make it but there was a couple issues on the bottom here but that's not a big deal but what is kind of a big deal is one of these piston rods I guess is kind of misaligned and printed Cricut but surprisingly it still functions so we spin it here we can see the whole thing turning so it's not perfect as the this arm here is crooked but yeah it still runs and it's pretty awesome and this is a pretty cool demo if you wanted you know to show it to your friends or anyone what a 3D printer can do this is really fun to print and again you can find this print by searching sunshine and the word engine should be able to find this file no problem so right up here we have a little robot that's sitting and this is a pretty cool print I've never printed this out I just noticed it I thought it was pretty cool because it's a simple print it prints flat like this and then it just pops off and this is what he looks like so yeah it's kind of like a puppet I guess yeah very nice details articulation is great and I think it's called Felix the robot or something like that the hands here have some function also a little cloth so yeah very nice printer very fun and it looks cool that's for sure and you guys can see the details amazing on this thing so yeah did a great job with this one so I also printed some hotter stuff like this abs and these are drift wheels for an RC car and this printer had no issues heating up to 100 degrees on the bed and 260 on the nozzle so we know that this Predator can easily go to 300 so yeah you can do some pretty extreme filaments but yeah as far as this ABS goes and did an excellent job it stuck to the build plate no issues I did use brim in and out let's see if we can clean one up here real quick and get these snippers and break off the support and it does pop right out no problem we just have to clean up the brim and roughly peeling it out this is what it looks like very nice inside there and a very clean print for abs which it has no issue whatsoever doing that so yeah if you needed to print some abs and this printer can definitely do that so the next pair I want to show you guys is back here and this is called 3D printed Fabric or something like that it's supposed to mimic like a fabric and what's crazy about this test is the retractions there are a bunch of retractions in this print as you guys can see those are all little links that link together now it didn't do a perfect job some of the pieces popped off and so it had some issues here and there like right here for instance it's all kind of melted together but overall it did print and turned out pretty well now I've printed chainmail before which is similar to this and it definitely turns out better than this this seems to be definitely more challenging to print it's a lot more tightly knitted and there's more pieces in here yeah if you want to print something like this maybe you try to print some chain male which is also super fun to print and this thing pretty much covered the whole bed it was I believe about 270 by 270 or something like that so yeah also showed that the bed is very even throughout the whole surface area so no matter where the nozzle went the Gap was always consistent which is quite important for a large volume like this and gives you the confidence to print larger things without worrying about adhesion so yeah it did an excellent job there and the last two prints we have is this larger plane chip is what it's called in this little spaceship here which is by the way printed in TPU so yeah it did an excellent job layers went down beautifully smooth and this is in spiralized mode which you guys can see TPU spiralized mode can be bent completely over and then bounce back so I did kind of break off the bottom there but other than that it's a really nice print and I was impressed how well it did with TPU so TPU is super fun to print and especially here in spiralized mode it's practically indestructible in a single layer so yeah very cool very fun to print and the last print is this plane chip which is like a spaceship slash plane and it is quite tall at 400 millimeters so this is the maximum height and I also printed it in Rainbow filament which it transitioned from this darker bronze color to Green so yeah it looks really good the bottom stuck perfect no issues this is in spiralized mode so there's a few layers on the bottom and then just one layer all the way to the top so if we get up closer here you guys can see the layers are sitting beautifully so very consistent and as we go up still the layers look really good and as we go to the very top I do feel a little bit of inconsistency especially right here a bit and depending on the lighting there we go you guys can see that that little bump right there but these here are pretty smooth there's a little bit something there but overall it's pretty good so depending on the lighting and how you look at it and because this is color changing it's not as consistent as normal filament but yeah overall still did an excellent job in a beautiful print here in spiralized mode all the way up to the maximum height of 400 millimeters so yeah guys overall I really like this printer as it brings a lot of features that go in hand with the great build quality of materials and as a very easy printer to use and it just works and that's probably the best part about it you put it together and you just use it there's not much to fiddle around with once you figure out how to use the apps and connecting it you're good to go and you just print away and obviously you can still go the old school way and use your SD card here to bring all your files in and also connect the printer USBC here to the computer if you want to do hardwire so yeah lots of features great build quality amazing direct drive spread extruder just a very clean setup that's seamless and works build volume is huge at 300 by 300 and 400 tall love the Pei sheet that's flexible easy to put it back as there's guides beautiful aluminum knobs here to adjust it even though you don't use a much but and they are there and also I do love this little storage for the tools the smart features are incredible here as you guys saw we can slice through our phone through the computer any browser the printer does power itself off off if you use the auto shut off after about five minutes or so when it's done which could be nice so you can start a print and when it finishes the printer will shut down it has a hard wire ethernet cable with the smart power button very stable with the support love this LED light on the top very nice filament detection the bearing roller that makes the spool unwind so easy and effortlessly very nice wire management and most of all great print quality that we expect out of creality and also not to mention you do get this little camera right even though it does look a bit over sharpened it is quite useful especially when you're not around to set this thing up and have it monitor your prints and you can check up on them through your phone when you're not around so yeah overall a great package if you wanted to splurge on something more high-end from creality this would be it as this brings all of their best features and updates to this printer so if you are interested I'm gonna have some links in the description check it out and if you did enjoy this video then hit that like button if you want to see more videos like this check out the 3D printing playlist I'm sure you'll find something interesting there and also check out my new channel called just print where I only do 3D printing so if you did make it to the end thumbs up to you thanks for sticking around and as always thanks for watching and I'll catch you on the next one peace

Channel: Just Vlad

Views: 36,640

Keywords: 3d printing, 3d printer, creality cr-10 smart, cr-10 smart pro, 3d print, cr10 smart pro, creality 3d, cr10 printer, 3d printer review, cr-10 smart 3d printing, creality cr-10 smart pro, direct drive, creality 3d printer, creality 3d printer setup, 3d printed, cr10 review, cr 10 smart pro, cr 10 smart, creality cr-10, 3d printing for beginners, cr-10 smart printer, cr 10 smart review, cr 10 smart pro leveling, cr 10 smart pro review, cr 10 smart pro setup, cr-10 smart

Id: FRFdd2mXylg

Length: 66min 30sec (3990 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 17 2023